Making an IRS Center section Drive Spool: Affordable Easy and NO LATHE!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2023
- Check Description for links to plans, detailed build series, FaceBook build group and more!
A year of development has led to this; A super strong Center Carrier for any IRS application without the need for a lathe. Built from readily available off the shelf parts along with accurate laser cut parts so you can assemble yourself for a fraction of the cost. This is what you have been looking for! I know this because as a builder I've been trying to find this for almost 20 years. Plans below show the required parts with part numbers for a complete IRS setup for 420 or 520/530 chains, .dxf files to upload for laser cutting, measurements for all parts, every single nut and bolt needed for assembly and plenty of pictures and walkthroughs. This setup is appx 56" hub face to hub face and has proven 15" or more of travel without binding. This has been missing for the home fabricators for too long. Enjoy!
-Kyle
Plans available here:
kj-raycing.dpdcart.com
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Custom length chassis
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Preferred tubing bender and notcher
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DISCLAIMER
Videos are for entertainment only, work performed in the video should only be accomplished by a professional technician. KJ Raycing will not be held liable for ANY personal injuries. - บันเทิง
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That guy a couple houses down said you had a tight, strong, rear end. ❤
thanks for sharing the building details! Looks fantastic!!!
You are awesome K!
Thank you, cheers!
Takin' it to the next level.. once again! 💪
Heck yeah! I hope this helps the garage guys!
Nice work well done 👏👍
That's awesome! Looks very professional. My next buggy will have this!
Thank you and heck yeah! I’d love to see it!
Thank you KJ for all your hard work and Yet again another Awesome design keep killing it man
Thank you so much!
Bought the plans . Looking forward to building.
You’re the best, Demon!
Absolutely awesome !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi very nice I like how it looks and goes together and not bad cost either thanks for sharing and building parts for home builders to use.
Man I really hope this helps the dreamers with their projects!
Dude... you killed it!! Omg this is so nice!! 🥵
Thank you! This means a lot coming from you, man!
Awesome the Word that comes to mind beautiful God bless
I’ve worked as a welder in the past but I’m no fabricator. I just ran welds on an assembly line. I wanna get into fabrication and I think this is a great first project, I’m confident I can build the jig and frame but the suspension has me a little intimidated. I will check out your whole series and see
Awesome Process. I just found this sport this evening and it looks like so much fun. Especially, with guys like you that show us how to put the stuff together. You're a good man! With your directions and plans, it makes it practically stress free! After all, we do stuff like this to reduce stress right?!!! Your approach is extremely professional in my opinion.
Thank you for your efforts!!!! Larry Patton
Wow! Thank you so much, this is one of the best compliments ever. This was all done for you guys so this really means a lot. Thank you again.
-Kyle
Nice job as always! The best "no lathe" build I've ever seen! I wanted to share an idea for holding the Concentricity of the rotating assembly. Have a laser cut setup plate that would temporarily bolt to both the brake and sprocket flange, the ID of the the setup plate would slip over the splined hub. Use the center hole in the sprocket or brake flange as a pilot hole for drilling the threaded hole in the axle. Then weld the plug welds, slip off the setup plate and weld the splined hub to the brake or sprocket flange. Keep up the inspiring and informative information on your creation that has gotten so many people involved in fabrication, welding and engineering. Have a great new year!
Thank you so much! The end plates are laser cut so they are already concentric 👍. Finding center of the axle isn’t too hard and even if it were a hair off wouldn’t affect the assembly at all. Laser cut parts was the key to all of this so critical tolerances didn’t have to be measured by the builder. Thank you as always for the feedback, I can’t wait to see your build 😁.
It's called FABRICATION, not ASSEMBY folks (re: ffaq / making your own decisions) .. lol .. great work Captain (re: Aviator / Pilot).
Looks like a nice simple design and plenty strong. Question is the plans going to be available with the cart plans or is it only going to be available as separate plans
For bearings a bearing and race tool kit works great and can get them for 44 from harbor freight.
Good info, thank you very much!
Hi KJ, All the way from South Africa, I really love the channel. Busy with a build.
It would be so nice if it was so easy to get parts cut in SA, some Go-Kart parts are just not available here and we need to import from eBay etc.
Very interested in your 2 seater frame and IRS Center
Heck yeah
What are the rear uprights from? Will the new center spool be part of the plans package?
Thanks
EDIT: You are good, you answered my upright question in part 2. Which I wasn't expecting to be out this quickly.
Use silicone around the spline that's what I use on the splines on my Polaris CVT transmission
Brilliant!
Little extra on the bearings, if you remove the plastic "seals" from both sides of the inner bearing and then from one side of the outer ones, putting the remaining seal out, your sealed bearings are now greaseable. My experiences with sealed bearings (I have rebuilt several mower spindle hubs and wheels on finish mowers) the bearings you get have like a dime size amount of silicone grease! This is pretty much a spindle hub just turned horizontal. Hmmm...... I have a couple just laying around. To the bat cave!
I’ve seen the inside of one of these specific bearings when I was doing the r and d and they seem pretty well greased. But that is a super hot tip and I have definitely done that before. Thank you for posting this in the comments! It’s hard to make nice, tidy, short videos with ALL the information.
Doesn't that defeat the purpose of sealed bearings?
@@wisconsinbush2940 yes if you a using just the bearing, and leaving the bearing out in the elements. Then it needs to be sealed. But he has incased the 4 bearings, in the hub. The hub now becomes the seal for the bearings, and epically if you fill it with grease. it will be fine.
love the information that you are providing. Question: Why don't you use Miata uprights instead of the ATV. Why do you like he ATV uprights better?
Well I guess you could… I don’t like the extra sprung weight of using car parts and just pressing a hub in is so much simpler.
Support
This is just what I’ve been looking for!! What is the overall length of it?
We’ve all been looking for this! Check part 2 for the specs 👍
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hello I'm not comfortable with bending round tubes and I don't have a bender, is a square tubing chassis can be as strong and work with your plans?
I can’t say as I don’t use square tubing. Sorry.
is the smaller flange on the hub a usable diameter? you could probably get a grease seal on the ends and if you pop out the rubber seals on the bearings you could actually have it greaseable.
Those are sealed bearings and should last 5-10 years easily. And if they happen to fail you just need to replace a few inexpensive pieces instead of the entire thing. The smaller flange will definitely not handle as much torque due to the low weld area.
@@KJRaycing what I meant was that the lip of an oil seal could run on that smaller diameter bit of the hubs. I don't think anything would need to be redesigned at all as long as you can get an oil seal with the right diameters. maybe the larger tube will need to be a bit longer depending on the thickness of the seal. or the spacer in the middle could be a tad shorter
sendcutsend cannot open the files for manufacturing the parts, only the page remains loaded somebody can help me
Does the spline count matter for the pto axle? And if so why did you use the one you used?
These are what I tested and are some of the most common and available.
hi can you do tutorial for how to design a buggy/crosskart step by step for beginner without payd 3d cad
You simply cannot build something like this without some sort of CAD. But if you don’t want to have to design one you can just get the plans for this one and build it 👍. It’s kind of what my whole channel is about… I wish you the best with whatever you build.
Where did you get the splined axle and hubs to match? you got a website link?
Lots of trial and error. Part numbers are in the plans for Everything. Links to everything in the description.
@@KJRaycing Right on thank you Sir.
are 23" the biggest tires you run? I'm trying to find bigger tires/rims that fit on my 01 raptor 660
If you understand gearing and rotational mass you can run any size you want!
@@KJRaycing it's just hard to find larger tires and rims that fit quad bolt pattern.... I didn't want to buy new spindles
Hello sir. I purchased your plans for the rear-end build. I'm doing everything from my phone when I click on the document for the laser cutter parts it tells it can't open the file. My question is what program are you using for those files
The dxf files are to upload to sendcutsend. It is all explained in the plans and in the videos. I also put on my website several times that a cell phone should not be used for downloads. Thank you for joining in on the fun! Oh and join the facebook group and we can all help you!
@KJRaycing thanks, my mistake I guess. I just stumbled on that one video when I was looking for ideas on how to build one. I subscribed, very informative thanks again.
I have found a 6 spline and a 21 spline PTO shaft but i do not trust the 21 spline holding up. I am afraid the hubs would easily cam over the small splines and strip them off ive had it done on handed steel atv axles several times with tight fitting hubs. Think i may use the 6 spline PTO shaft instead as the splines on them are taller their for would be harder for the hub to cam over the splines. Have you any bad luck running the 21 spline shafts?
The 21 spline setup has been used for over 20 years on very high output setups. I also tried the 6 spline and the hubs are smaller in diameter so there is less weld area.
@@KJRaycing So basically your saying i should run the 1-3/8- 21splined PTO shaft and should be fine?
Well you can run either of course, I’m just saying the setup I use is definitely proven to not strip the splines. The hard part isn’t stripping splines or breaking welds; it’s keeping the endplate against the axle. There is a ton of vibration from the miata axles.
@@KJRaycing I am not saying your set up does strip splines or that there is anything wrong with it.. I have a buggy i am currently making a home made jack shaft for and the little splines on the 21 pto shaft make me worry i like the 6 spline pto shaft 1 3/8 but if the 21 is a stronger shaft i will use it instead i just dont want to build it all and have it brake on me 5 mins later. This has nothing to do with what your advertising on the video i am just trying to get an idea what to use.
purchased the downloads for the Affordable IRS and the Complete Parts List... No where does it say what year the Miata the parts are from?
Check item 21 of the very first page. It says exactly what year the axles are.
hi ive got a 2 seater cross kart i keep snapin my drive shafts i got honda cbr fr2 600 engine are you able build me a new rear drive shalf ive got you tube channel with videos of mine drivein
All that torque going through those little center bolt? Wait what?
Uh, no. The bolts literally just hold the endplates onto the axle laterally. The splines on the axle and hubs handle power transfer. Wow…
@@KJRaycing k i must of missed the part where the splines go into the end plate i was like what no way those bolts are holding that torque lol
@@KJRaycing ahh i missed the part of the "weld holes" to the hub and then welding around the hub to the end plate
I gotcha man 👍. There’s always so much info in my videos, you gotta pay attention! Thanks for watching 🖖
Can it work with a r1 engine
Yes. MANY have been built with R1’s
The engine is how many horsepower and how many cc I hope you will reply please
Crosskart FAQ's (KJ Raycing Builds)
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Could you blind one for me?? I don't have the time. Could you please tell me the price and to ship too Boston, ma. Please, thank you, stay safe..
Michael. P.
Hit me up in the VF-1 builders Facebook group, I’ll get you one.
How much money is it gonna cost in full, everything, besides tools, like from least amount it’s gonna cost too most it’s gonna cost? And thanks, no one else is doing what your doing for your viewers.
I know budget is a huge thing, that’s why I spent a year developing this. It is the least expensive way to get a bulletproof independent rear suspension setup on your ride. The plans have all the info for parts and the price depends on how well you can source everything. With prices always changing it is hard to give a definitive answer. I do know that I haven’t found a less expensive way to do it and that it is worth every penny. Thank you for the amazing compliment, this channel was created for you guys and will always be to help the garage guys out there!
@@KJRaycing thanks
I wouldn't like any water in my rear end!
There were so many opportunities for rear end jokes! (“I bet you’re wondering just how much torture my rear end can handle..), but I get in business mode when I do the vids and it’s hard to joke around. Thank you for the comment.
200 ftlbs at 6k rpm isn't 400 horsepower is a just over 200.
How about you get a camera and put yourself out there. C’mon man cut me some slack.
sendcutsend very cool service!
Oh man it is such a huge thing for home fabricators!!
@@KJRaycing I have an awesome laser shop right down the road from me but as they got bigger their prices went up. The prices you showed looked awesome