+Triangle Diagnostics, I can only assume that this AFM oil shield is only available with a crate engine? Perhaps it'd make sense for GM to pay out a claim to drop the oil pan, & install this part. Generally, engines are replaced due to "lack of oil" NOT excessive oil spraying on the bottom of the cylinders. Besides, there's absolutely no combustion down there, & very minimal heat. Wouldn't excessive be scraped back down by the piston rings? Also, in part 02 you marked the serpentine belt (And another one.) as if you're going to reuse them. Why?
I did reuse the drive belts for this particular job, as they were still in serviceable condition. As far as the whole AFM scenario, I agree with you fully. I am not sure as far the specifics on the AFM oil consumption scenario, I think that the amount of oil being purged into the cylinders during AFM venting was so substantial that the rings just couldn't wipe it all away. I'm not certain. The issue is that the oil burning leads to engine failure from owners failure to check their oil levels. The owner of this one had ran her dry one too many time and the engine was beginning to knock.
Where did this engine come from? I ask because of the packaging. Where do you typically source engines from? What can an average Yukon/Tahoe owner expect to shell out for a job like this.
Hey bud. this particular engine is an LKQ remanufactured engine. I want to say total cost for this job was around 4,000, but that will obviously vary shop to shop
@@pinpointautomotiverepair1592 Indeed, engine (long block) costs around $3600 here and labor is $2100 (not including replacing hoses,gaskets, and other stuff you should replace while doing all this), using your videos as a guide when we got stuck though and we did it ourselves, twice :)
I think the engine swinging back and forth as you disassembled it would have driven me crazy.. maybe a bungee from 3 different angles holding it toward the lift to stabilize would have held my sanity in check
Oh it does. The shop doesnt have a decent engine stand, otherwise I would have put it on a stand for all of this. I did run a strap to one of the lift posts, but was more using that to hold the engine in a spot conducive to ok lighting for filming, not so much to stabilize it. Ill have to give that a try next time I have en engine out!
I know this video its old, but can anyone tell me if it needs the engine oil cooling lines or I can just block them off. Im tired of replacing them. What I have is a 07 chevy tahoe, pretty much the same thing as the video
I am fairly new to your channel but like what I see alot. I run a shop in Michigan and you seem to be working in the south? The little problem I have seen where you busted out the torch, I am guessing that does not get used much?
my only complaint, never stand under the engine hoist arm with anything on it, it sure wouldn't have done your shoulder or back any good if it suddenly let go :)
Actual time spent working on this vehicle to get to this point for me was about 5 hours, not including time taken to position the camera and all the good stuff. Total time it took me for this job was around 16 hours, not including filming time.
Haha yeah, we'll do some everyone once in a while 😂 I should explain a little about how the shop operates on one of my vids sometime. Half of it is a tire lube place, the other half is a warranty repair facility for vehicles sold through a used car dealership. That's what I do.
opening up that crate and unwrapping the engine-- ahhhh just like christmas morning. good motors, have done a few. nice vid series.
I really want to thank you brother! This has helped me so much
Great series. About to pull 5.3 from a 2007. Transmission was leaking on my trailer, so going to pull both.
Great progress on the strip down. Thanks!
Thank you very well done !
Nice series Joe and looks like you're making good time. I'm particular when it comes to gaskets & seals so I know what you mean.
How many miles on this old engine,, and what was the problem
+Triangle Diagnostics, I can only assume that this AFM oil shield is only available with a crate engine? Perhaps it'd make sense for GM to pay out a claim to drop the oil pan, & install this part. Generally, engines are replaced due to "lack of oil" NOT excessive oil spraying on the bottom of the cylinders. Besides, there's absolutely no combustion down there, & very minimal heat. Wouldn't excessive be scraped back down by the piston rings? Also, in part 02 you marked the serpentine belt (And another one.) as if you're going to reuse them. Why?
I did reuse the drive belts for this particular job, as they were still in serviceable condition. As far as the whole AFM scenario, I agree with you fully. I am not sure as far the specifics on the AFM oil consumption scenario, I think that the amount of oil being purged into the cylinders during AFM venting was so substantial that the rings just couldn't wipe it all away. I'm not certain. The issue is that the oil burning leads to engine failure from owners failure to check their oil levels. The owner of this one had ran her dry one too many time and the engine was beginning to knock.
Well, on those belts; duh. However, wouldn't the knock sensor interact with the AFM to prevent knocking?
Where did this engine come from? I ask because of the packaging.
Where do you typically source engines from?
What can an average Yukon/Tahoe owner expect to shell out for a job like this.
Hey bud. this particular engine is an LKQ remanufactured engine. I want to say total cost for this job was around 4,000, but that will obviously vary shop to shop
@@pinpointautomotiverepair1592 Indeed, engine (long block) costs around $3600 here and labor is $2100 (not including replacing hoses,gaskets, and other stuff you should replace while doing all this), using your videos as a guide when we got stuck though and we did it ourselves, twice :)
Can you use the old ecm on the new engine ?
I think the engine swinging back and forth as you disassembled it would have driven me crazy.. maybe a bungee from 3 different angles holding it toward the lift to stabilize would have held my sanity in check
Oh it does. The shop doesnt have a decent engine stand, otherwise I would have put it on a stand for all of this. I did run a strap to one of the lift posts, but was more using that to hold the engine in a spot conducive to ok lighting for filming, not so much to stabilize it. Ill have to give that a try next time I have en engine out!
I know this video its old, but can anyone tell me if it needs the engine oil cooling lines or I can just block them off. Im tired of replacing them.
What I have is a 07 chevy tahoe, pretty much the same thing as the video
Nice man i been watching the progress. What year is the new engine?
How many hours does this take?
I am fairly new to your channel but like what I see alot. I run a shop in Michigan and you seem to be working in the south? The little problem I have seen where you busted out the torch, I am guessing that does not get used much?
Roughly how long was just the removal?
I had it out in about 4ish hours of I remember correctly.
@@pinpointautomotiverepair1592 cool
my only complaint, never stand under the engine hoist arm with anything on it, it sure wouldn't have done your shoulder or back any good if it suddenly let go :)
How much did u get paid for that job??😅
How long has it taken you to this point?
Actual time spent working on this vehicle to get to this point for me was about 5 hours, not including time taken to position the camera and all the good stuff. Total time it took me for this job was around 16 hours, not including filming time.
Well it doesnt seem like you guys do very many tires. haha
Haha yeah, we'll do some everyone once in a while 😂 I should explain a little about how the shop operates on one of my vids sometime. Half of it is a tire lube place, the other half is a warranty repair facility for vehicles sold through a used car dealership. That's what I do.