Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine. Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result. I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain. Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more.... I usually prototype using 0603
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Nice work! I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup. Thanks
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
Hi, have a questions: 1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist? 2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths? 3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it? 4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself? thank you! p.s.: where you from?
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser. Congratulations on achieving !
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ? Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
Great Job, But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Thank's for your video. Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours. I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track. But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters. Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply. With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers: 1/Linearity problems 2/Scaling problems. What paint do you use? Thank's. Jean-Yves.
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
Well made! But i'm curious: 1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ? 2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear. Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once. 3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time 4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
Greate project Do you control the TMC 260 with SPI Interface or STEP/DIR interface? Do you publish this project with source ,a want to buil a smal version from your design. Thank you for sharing your video
Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
Amazing job! Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine. Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
Hello, I do have a Question, is it possible to cut 50um thick copper foil? would it present a problem to add kapton film? what is the power of your laser? 1W?
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow. Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner). But its great work of course!
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it? I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
Wow, very clean etch! Although the very small text wasn't that nice especially when there is a small gap, but still, very good! Did you make your own printer software? If so, what software do you use to make the software?
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
If the copper clad is already coated with an UV sensitive film . Why not print directly onto a transparency using a laser printer and then use a UV light source and the printed transparency to transfer the image to the copper. Even if you have already build this excellent CNC machine, drilling would be a better task for it. If I am wrong I'd love to hear your argument. Thank you very much!
While that works too, it can be difficult to get a good dark print on a transparency. Often, a little light leaks through, causing pitting and problems with small details.
That is the way we all did it in the past, but because of the use of toxic chemicals, trying and error for the right timing (exposure) and developing, and a lot of time, there is need for better easyer methodes. Some are good with the toner transfer methode, and some have even made direct pcb printing possible with inkjet printers and LASERPRINTER. So this methode would have the advance to be very simple setup. Cut your board, load patern, set xy begin point and start software. That is ofcource if the author releases his code. Go have a coffe and a cookie, and when you come back your pc is ready for etching. ( still with toxic compounds, but i'm sure someone will find another way...lol )
Isolation style toolpaths might be quicker than the raster and give you a ground plane too. Anyway it's excellent work, well done!
A lot of work went into this. Thanks for sharing. Its very clever.
Very interesting indeed! A very good job it does too! Would love to build this as always prototyping.
Ian..
Good work, with great results at the end - i'm very impressed!
you must be proud of yourself ..it's amazing.
Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine.
Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result.
I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel
It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain.
Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
Very cool! I am looking to do the same. What is the mW output on the laser diode?
Excellent jump "Keep Lasering" :-)
What spray you use on the PCB..
Really fantastic resolution! Excellent work! I hope you will find a way to make 2-side PCBs with it!
Beautiful man maybe slow but accurate and very nice resolution. That's what I call precision and high quality, very nice.
Beautiful. I plan to try the same except with a smaller plotter.
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more....
I usually prototype using 0603
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Nice work!
I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup.
Thanks
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
Hi, have a questions:
1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist?
2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths?
3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it?
4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself?
thank you!
p.s.: where you from?
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser.
Congratulations on achieving !
This is craaaaaazy. This is so insane that all of these parts for a machine like this are readily available these days
Soooo nice :)
I must build it.
Could you provide some information about diode and optics elements that you use it there?
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Great video but a little narration of the process would be nice.
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
Those Trinamics drivers are amazing... did you make them??
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ?
Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
well done, professional, good resolution
great work! what is the laser driver that you used?
nice job, may I ask what etching fluid used for this video?
so... it is possible to have the same result with classical methode? typon and UV light...
Excellent job! It must have taken a lot of time and planning. Something for a kickstarter project?
Your heating elements, what are they - defrosters? And what of the published plans for this laser printer? Thanks for the video.
Hello congratulations for your project this luxury that chemists are using in the process thanks
Awesome! Resolution is great, and 13 min is not that long. Good job! :)
Awesome job on the laser printer man :D
It has very well turned out...
Great Job,
But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Could you please release more specs, specifically the laser power.
F'ing BEAUTIFUL!! and Brilliant.
We need more people like you!
Any info about the machine's HOME position and about aligning the PCB?
Thank's for your video.
Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours.
I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track.
But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters.
Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply.
With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers:
1/Linearity problems
2/Scaling problems.
What paint do you use? Thank's.
Jean-Yves.
Wow, super Arbeit, sowas hätt' ich auch gerne zu Hause!
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
What solution are you using for the etching? Also did you use a uv laser to get rid of the photosensitive stuff? Or is it a normal pb
hacım mükemmmel olmuş. bakırı yakıyormusun?
Great video. It is capable of making e.x microvias?
Good day,
I am very interested in their software for the laser plotter.
Could you please tell which you are using
Regardless of anything else mention by others who might have a quicker way of doing this, the results of this printer speak for themselves.
Nice! What kind of Laser is used here?
Bonjour, superbe vidéo. Quels logiciels utilisez vous? Merci d'avance.
a single video is worth more than 1000 words.
every frame is worth 1000 words
Very pretty result.
Is the laser burn copper of the PCB?
Why not just expose the lack on the PCB with lower optic power?
it seems you've used an atmega uC! ISR(TIMER blah blah blah) Amazing Work!
I can't understand what you do after laser printing.... what was in the first tank and in the second bubble tank.
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
is that photoresist dry film ?
what kind of laser you ues
10watt blue diod fiber So2 IR?
thanks..
Was the photoresist used? I understand correctly?
That is amazing, even would be for a professional PCB house.
Well made! But i'm curious:
1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ?
2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear.
Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once.
3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time
4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
Greate project
Do you control the TMC 260 with SPI Interface or STEP/DIR interface?
Do you publish this project with source ,a want to buil a smal version from your design.
Thank you for sharing your video
how do you focus laser? using some optics?
Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
hello, I dont know if you are still interested, but here are some informations visible: 1:17
have a great day
@@certified-forklifter thanks
Well done sir ! very useful machine.
Can you teach me how to make my own controller board using ftdi uart and configuring the micro controller
why u no vector!? how fine can you get traces and pads? also...damn dude, build a bubble tank! overall awesome though!
Are you just using activating photoresisit?
So did the laser etch the copper or paint?
Wow.. That is very very impressive.
Grate job. Like it so much :)
Amazing job!
Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
What laser are you using? Would I be able to achieve that much detail with 5 watt focus adjustable Chinese diode laser?
What is the wattage of the 405nm solid state laser? Where did you buy it?
what programs did you use?
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine.
Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
great work! however I would be even more amazed if you explained to us how you arrived to this procedure, what software you're using! love it tho
Hello, I do have a Question,
is it possible to cut 50um thick copper foil? would it present a problem to add kapton film? what is the power of your laser? 1W?
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
Well done!
Could you describe what the bubbling process is for at at 5:57? Awesome project!
Great ! Revolutional Method.
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow.
Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner).
But its great work of course!
Hi. Which one program do you making PCB?
hello :D with what program you use ?
I suppose this laser is not the 1st price!
What is the (range of) pricision in mm?
Thank's!
Laser power?
500mW or more?
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it?
I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
1. Which is the model and specification of laser?
2. Which is the photoresist?
incredible!
Hi, on this film you supposed 405nm ≈ 100mW blue laser diode.
What about really UV 365nm 250 ÷ 1500mW laser led?
Regards.
você compartilharia o controlar cnc ?
Amazing!!!
Wow, very clean etch!
Although the very small text wasn't that nice especially when there is a small gap, but still, very good!
Did you make your own printer software? If so, what software do you use to make the software?
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
Many thanks for this info.My lens is similar to this (google) AixiZ Blue Laser Glass Lens for 405-455nm
Greetings from Russia! Great job! Is there a description of the hardware and software?
Good job. where I can get it ,I need one
I do not understand. Is the laser removing the unwanted copper or what?
If the copper clad is already coated with an UV sensitive film . Why not print directly onto a transparency using a laser printer and then use a UV light source and the printed transparency to transfer the image to the copper.
Even if you have already build this excellent CNC machine, drilling would be a better task for it.
If I am wrong I'd love to hear your argument. Thank you very much!
While that works too, it can be difficult to get a good dark print on a transparency. Often, a little light leaks through, causing pitting and problems with small details.
That is the way we all did it in the past, but because of the use of toxic chemicals, trying and error for the right timing (exposure) and developing, and a lot of time, there is need for better easyer methodes. Some are good with the toner transfer methode, and some have even made direct pcb printing possible with inkjet printers and LASERPRINTER. So this methode would have the advance to be very simple setup. Cut your board, load patern, set xy begin point and start software. That is ofcource if the author releases his code.
Go have a coffe and a cookie, and when you come back your pc is ready for etching. ( still with toxic compounds, but i'm sure someone will find another way...lol )
Hi! First, you're printer looks awesome! I was wondering what kind of etching solution you were using. Is it hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide?
Hi, no HCL, i use to etching Sodium persulfate (Na2S2O8) at 40 - 50°C.
your*
I tried to print a board with my epson laser printer, but I do not get any conductivity. What am I doing wrong?
what laser power?