Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
Hi, have a questions: 1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist? 2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths? 3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it? 4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself? thank you! p.s.: where you from?
Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more.... I usually prototype using 0603
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
Well made! But i'm curious: 1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ? 2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear. Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once. 3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time 4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser. Congratulations on achieving !
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow. Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner). But its great work of course!
Thank's for your video. Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours. I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track. But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters. Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply. With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers: 1/Linearity problems 2/Scaling problems. What paint do you use? Thank's. Jean-Yves.
Great Job, But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup. Thanks
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it? I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
I assume you are using some kind of photo sensitive PCB. Assuming I'm correct, isn't the board sensitive to ambient light? In other words, wouldn't the board be exposed prematurely with this method? Or is it that the board is only sensitive to a particular wavelength? What am I missing? Thanks.
Generally, I find that artificial ambient light, not sunlight (usually UV sensitive - look at his wavelength), has little effect under about an hour anyway with most pre-coated photo-resist PCB (RS Components). Of course, the more you expose it, the more trouble you'll get, but I'd think that this situation would be fine - you could always turn the lights off until it had finished.
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ? Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
why that slowness?, is not better to setup the laser into a motor that rotates it and impact on the pcb?, placing the laser in the center, you can impact it from 45 degree to the left up to 45 degree to the right, if the laser is enough higher away from the PCB the corrections needed to the image are minimal, it is just like the LASER of a LASER printer works, it don't have the laser itself rotating but has a prism rotating changing the angle where the laser will impact. That way it is a lot faster and it don't needs to move a big head-mass that makes it slow, and the aligment can be perfect always as it is rotating and never stops rotating.
Basically, yes, I've tried. The problem then is the focal point, the distance Laser to Board is not constant. Thus I do not have a uniform laser spot. For the focal point I need an accuracy of about 0.5 mm. Only then I have an equally large laser spot. A complicated optics would otherwise be required.
Hi, i am using a 405nm with ca 60mW - 100mW Laserdiode from a XBOX Laser unit.The diode is operated between dark (10mA) and light (90mA) with pulse 50/50 at ca 60 Khz.The lens is a low cost glas lens for 400-500 nm.
+Hobby Elektronik May i ask you to put more details about the lens or a link to buy it from? also can u plz tell us how do you control the laser power? thanks alot
If the copper clad is already coated with an UV sensitive film . Why not print directly onto a transparency using a laser printer and then use a UV light source and the printed transparency to transfer the image to the copper. Even if you have already build this excellent CNC machine, drilling would be a better task for it. If I am wrong I'd love to hear your argument. Thank you very much!
While that works too, it can be difficult to get a good dark print on a transparency. Often, a little light leaks through, causing pitting and problems with small details.
That is the way we all did it in the past, but because of the use of toxic chemicals, trying and error for the right timing (exposure) and developing, and a lot of time, there is need for better easyer methodes. Some are good with the toner transfer methode, and some have even made direct pcb printing possible with inkjet printers and LASERPRINTER. So this methode would have the advance to be very simple setup. Cut your board, load patern, set xy begin point and start software. That is ofcource if the author releases his code. Go have a coffe and a cookie, and when you come back your pc is ready for etching. ( still with toxic compounds, but i'm sure someone will find another way...lol )
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
Can you describe this process a little? What exactly are you laser etching away? Is it a film or the copper itself? If you're lasering the PCB, then why do you also need to chemically etch it too?
Kristian Keller Thanks. That makes a lot more sense. If I had a laser etcher though, I would go with a paint coating and laser etch everything except the traces away. Then I would continue to etch normally with either acid or household chemicals, depending upon the project.
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine. Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
Nice work! I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
Hi, great job. I do not understand very well. It seems that you don't use any photosensitive pcb. Is it correct? The laser beam takes off a little portion of the copper then the acid takes less time to remove the smaller thickness while the rest remains intact. Is it correct?
Hello, no, only the photoresist is exposed. Copper is not removed from the laser. (100mW is far too little power) The laser illuminates the board only. I suppose photoresist boards of the company Bungard. Think the other photoresists also work.
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
Amazing job! Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
Nice work! have you tried using this machine with a photoresistive dryfilm applied to a raw board? does it also work? the laser burns out the photoresist out right? or it acts curing the photoresist?
a thousand times thank you for this information! :) saved me from a big frustration. I was going to try it with a photoresist negative film because I didn't know they had a positive film. thanks!
Hello, I do have a Question, is it possible to cut 50um thick copper foil? would it present a problem to add kapton film? what is the power of your laser? 1W?
Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine. Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result. I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain. Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
Something like this maybe .. www.ebay.com/itm/100mw-450nm-Blue-Laser-Diode-Module-analog-Lighting-Show-12vdc-/400532051154?hash=item5d419214d2:g:iM8AAOSwrklVOZzQ
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
Hey! Great job! What software do you use to export the design to the printer so it prints line to line? Is it an Eagle's plugin? Also, what controller do you use to control the laser? The impulses come directly from the ATMega board? Thanks for the help!
Hi, my software translate G-Code from Eagle ULP PCB-GCODE to BMP. The BMP contains then in the correct resolution per one pixel of the laser. The advantage is that you can set the isolation very simply. The software is but still under development. The machine still does not work 100% perfect. (see my next video with two lasers and more speed). Yes, the ATmega128 with 32k SRAM controls the motors and the laser just in time. (timerinterrupt). The PC always transmits a complete row, which is then processed.
Oh I see, it makes sense! But you developed the software yourself? You coded the transcription of the bmp lines to the time impulses sequence, or you got the code from a third party? (If so, from where?)
***** Yes, I write my own programs, Windows programs in C # (Visual Studio), AVR in C (AVR Studio from Atmel). I milled my boards mainly on my self-built CNC. The resolution is not as good because of the small tools. In addition, the areas of the copper surfaces is very time-consuming. Since I got the idea for the printer
Well, it was a pretty good work! Did you consider using an Arduino platform instead of that ATMega? Since it is (from my point of view) easier to program.
***** You do know that the Arduino is just at ATMega and some "getting started" tools and libraries? Once he has a setup to program it without the Arduino libraries and bootloader, he gets no advantage from using an Arduino board in place of just the raw chip. In fact, I think adding that extra RAM is something that can't be done easily in the Arduino system.
what cad are you using ,i have tina7 ind,i cannot find a 3f5 model for the 328p in any form factor,i do have a 28 pin dip footprint,but i realy want a TQFP 32 pin footprint,i'm gathering all the bits to make my own cnc ,using the ch340 usb to serial and a atmega 328p of some sort, using all my own driver boards i can minimise unwanted parts and focus on the system needs ,stepper drivers connections for end stop switches,coolant,etc,all on one small pcb,with its own power supply. IU don't want codes or plans or pdfs,if you could inform me of the cad,did you have 328p icsTQFP types on your pcb driver boards and if so do the 3f5 models come with eagle or whataver cad you used,did you import them,if you imported them can you tell me where from. you can i believe spray black gloss paint on the copper clad board ,the laser will remove it,relieving you of developer stages and straight to etch,though i would go for a milled board as the laser seems a bit slow,but then this seems to be raster,isn't vector faster,either way,this is a very nice machine,i want one much bigger to make guitar bodies,still,i love this stuff. Excellent work and ingenuity.
Amazing stuff!!! What kind of PCB are you using? I am not totally sure I understand how laser-ing the copper will do this, except if there is a coating on the PCB that the laser is actually burning off... :) Must say the resolution is amazing!!!
The laser is not burning anything, it just exposures the photosensitive coating that is on the pcb. The 405 nM Laser light is close to the light those boards need, 300-400 nm. Hope this make it more clear for you.
Greate project Do you control the TMC 260 with SPI Interface or STEP/DIR interface? Do you publish this project with source ,a want to buil a smal version from your design. Thank you for sharing your video
+احمد يونس Its just a CNC frame with stepper motors. The code and the lazer are the hard part. If you don't understand how to make one you probably don't need one anyway.
How do you control laser diode on/off while in work? im trying to find some laser module on ebay but i can not find any why to control it all of them have only vcc and gnd.
Strope the vcc or gnd !! Simply hock the vcc to your vcc & the gnd to a collector of an NPN through a resistor & hock thr NPN emetter to your gnd then pulse the base of the NPN.
Isolation style toolpaths might be quicker than the raster and give you a ground plane too. Anyway it's excellent work, well done!
Very cool! I am looking to do the same. What is the mW output on the laser diode?
you must be proud of yourself ..it's amazing.
A lot of work went into this. Thanks for sharing. Its very clever.
Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
hello, I dont know if you are still interested, but here are some informations visible: 1:17
have a great day
@@certified-forklifter thanks
This is craaaaaazy. This is so insane that all of these parts for a machine like this are readily available these days
Excellent jump "Keep Lasering" :-)
What spray you use on the PCB..
so... it is possible to have the same result with classical methode? typon and UV light...
Hi, have a questions:
1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist?
2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths?
3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it?
4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself?
thank you!
p.s.: where you from?
Could you describe what the bubbling process is for at at 5:57? Awesome project!
Great video but a little narration of the process would be nice.
Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more....
I usually prototype using 0603
Can you make this project a open source?
Buy 3d printer and laser, in flat cam use option to create path outside route and you have pcb in 1/10 of time in video
@@Roodger.eleventh have cnc 3018 milling, which laser is suitable for this work?
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
this is incredible, but I don't quite understand what is happening on 5:24
Well made! But i'm curious:
1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ?
2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear.
Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once.
3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time
4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser.
Congratulations on achieving !
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow.
Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner).
But its great work of course!
Hi. Which one program do you making PCB?
Very interesting indeed! A very good job it does too! Would love to build this as always prototyping.
Ian..
Thank's for your video.
Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours.
I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track.
But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters.
Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply.
With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers:
1/Linearity problems
2/Scaling problems.
What paint do you use? Thank's.
Jean-Yves.
Great Job,
But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Good work, with great results at the end - i'm very impressed!
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup.
Thanks
Beautiful man maybe slow but accurate and very nice resolution. That's what I call precision and high quality, very nice.
Excellent job! It must have taken a lot of time and planning. Something for a kickstarter project?
Your heating elements, what are they - defrosters? And what of the published plans for this laser printer? Thanks for the video.
a single video is worth more than 1000 words.
every frame is worth 1000 words
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it?
I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
hacım mükemmmel olmuş. bakırı yakıyormusun?
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
I assume you are using some kind of photo sensitive PCB. Assuming I'm correct, isn't the board sensitive to ambient light? In other words, wouldn't the board be exposed prematurely with this method? Or is it that the board is only sensitive to a particular wavelength? What am I missing? Thanks.
Generally, I find that artificial ambient light, not sunlight (usually UV sensitive - look at his wavelength), has little effect under about an hour anyway with most pre-coated photo-resist PCB (RS Components). Of course, the more you expose it, the more trouble you'll get, but I'd think that this situation would be fine - you could always turn the lights off until it had finished.
Thank you very much. By the way, outstanding job!
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ?
Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
why that slowness?, is not better to setup the laser into a motor that rotates it and impact on the pcb?, placing the laser in the center, you can impact it from 45 degree to the left up to 45 degree to the right, if the laser is enough higher away from the PCB the corrections needed to the image are minimal, it is just like the LASER of a LASER printer works, it don't have the laser itself rotating but has a prism rotating changing the angle where the laser will impact. That way it is a lot faster and it don't needs to move a big head-mass that makes it slow, and the aligment can be perfect always as it is rotating and never stops rotating.
Basically, yes, I've tried.
The problem then is the focal point, the distance Laser to Board is not constant. Thus I do not have a uniform laser spot.
For the focal point I need an accuracy of about 0.5 mm.
Only then I have an equally large laser spot.
A complicated optics would otherwise be required.
just rip off the optical mechanism from a laser printer.
flyguille The laser printer unit is designed for 980nm. I think because a lot of power is lost.
13 minutes is not bad at all. If you need to produce large volumes you would order professionally made boards anyway.
+DutchPhlogiston Yes. That's the time it usually takes me to get the stencils lined up, the glass cleaned, etc.
Very impresive! What is the power of the laser diode you are using?
Hi, i am using a 405nm with ca 60mW - 100mW Laserdiode from a XBOX Laser unit.The diode is operated between dark (10mA) and light (90mA) with pulse 50/50 at ca 60 Khz.The lens is a low cost glas lens for 400-500 nm.
+Hobby Elektronik May i ask you to put more details about the lens or a link to buy it from? also can u plz tell us how do you control the laser power? thanks alot
thank u very much indeed
did u get the link to purchase the laser?
Hi not yet but thanks alot for asking. I might bother you some time later about the your system. thanks alot again for asking.
If the copper clad is already coated with an UV sensitive film . Why not print directly onto a transparency using a laser printer and then use a UV light source and the printed transparency to transfer the image to the copper.
Even if you have already build this excellent CNC machine, drilling would be a better task for it.
If I am wrong I'd love to hear your argument. Thank you very much!
While that works too, it can be difficult to get a good dark print on a transparency. Often, a little light leaks through, causing pitting and problems with small details.
That is the way we all did it in the past, but because of the use of toxic chemicals, trying and error for the right timing (exposure) and developing, and a lot of time, there is need for better easyer methodes. Some are good with the toner transfer methode, and some have even made direct pcb printing possible with inkjet printers and LASERPRINTER. So this methode would have the advance to be very simple setup. Cut your board, load patern, set xy begin point and start software. That is ofcource if the author releases his code.
Go have a coffe and a cookie, and when you come back your pc is ready for etching. ( still with toxic compounds, but i'm sure someone will find another way...lol )
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
Can you describe this process a little? What exactly are you laser etching away? Is it a film or the copper itself? If you're lasering the PCB, then why do you also need to chemically etch it too?
bugs181 It's not laser etching. He is "just" exposing the photoresist film with a UV laser and afterwards doing development and etching as normal.
Kristian Keller Thanks. That makes a lot more sense. If I had a laser etcher though, I would go with a paint coating and laser etch everything except the traces away. Then I would continue to etch normally with either acid or household chemicals, depending upon the project.
Hi! First, you're printer looks awesome! I was wondering what kind of etching solution you were using. Is it hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide?
Hi, no HCL, i use to etching Sodium persulfate (Na2S2O8) at 40 - 50°C.
your*
I tried to print a board with my epson laser printer, but I do not get any conductivity. What am I doing wrong?
Really fantastic resolution! Excellent work! I hope you will find a way to make 2-side PCBs with it!
А если прикрепить оптические линейки, китайские имеют разрешение 0,005 микрон в квадратурной дешифрации, Xmega поддерживает Qdac.
Soooo nice :)
I must build it.
Could you provide some information about diode and optics elements that you use it there?
Could you please release more specs, specifically the laser power.
nice job, may I ask what etching fluid used for this video?
Is the laser burn copper of the PCB?
Why not just expose the lack on the PCB with lower optic power?
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine.
Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
What solution are you using for the etching? Also did you use a uv laser to get rid of the photosensitive stuff? Or is it a normal pb
I can't understand what you do after laser printing.... what was in the first tank and in the second bubble tank.
Any info about the machine's HOME position and about aligning the PCB?
great work! what is the laser driver that you used?
Nice work!
I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
What laser are you using? Would I be able to achieve that much detail with 5 watt focus adjustable Chinese diode laser?
why u no vector!? how fine can you get traces and pads? also...damn dude, build a bubble tank! overall awesome though!
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
Hi, great job.
I do not understand very well.
It seems that you don't use any photosensitive pcb.
Is it correct?
The laser beam takes off a little portion of the copper then
the acid takes less time to remove the smaller thickness while the
rest remains intact.
Is it correct?
Hello, no, only the photoresist is exposed. Copper is not removed from the laser.
(100mW is far too little power) The laser illuminates the board only.
I suppose photoresist boards of the company Bungard. Think the other photoresists also work.
Hobby Elektronik This explains a lot, I thought for a second that you were etching the copper itself
***** Write your number on the wall of the bathroom of the Jiffy-Mart at 9th and State St. across from the old Shell station.
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
Many thanks for this info.My lens is similar to this (google) AixiZ Blue Laser Glass Lens for 405-455nm
Amazing job!
Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
Wow, super Arbeit, sowas hätt' ich auch gerne zu Hause!
is that photoresist dry film ?
what kind of laser you ues
10watt blue diod fiber So2 IR?
thanks..
I do not understand. Is the laser removing the unwanted copper or what?
Those Trinamics drivers are amazing... did you make them??
Nice work!
have you tried using this machine with a photoresistive dryfilm applied to a raw board? does it also work?
the laser burns out the photoresist out right? or it acts curing the photoresist?
@Wilian M, This will only work with positive resist, dryfilm is a negative process, in other words the unexposed part is developed away.
a thousand times thank you for this information! :)
saved me from a big frustration. I was going to try it with a photoresist negative film because I didn't know they had a positive film.
thanks!
Chris Bezuidenhout if the laser can burn positive or negative, what difference does it make positive or negative etch resist?
I suppose this laser is not the 1st price!
What is the (range of) pricision in mm?
Thank's!
So did the laser etch the copper or paint?
Are you just using activating photoresisit?
great work! however I would be even more amazed if you explained to us how you arrived to this procedure, what software you're using! love it tho
Nice! What kind of Laser is used here?
Hello, I do have a Question,
is it possible to cut 50um thick copper foil? would it present a problem to add kapton film? what is the power of your laser? 1W?
Great video. It is capable of making e.x microvias?
Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine.
Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result.
I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel
It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain.
Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
Was the photoresist used? I understand correctly?
Greetings from Russia! Great job! Is there a description of the hardware and software?
Beautiful. I plan to try the same except with a smaller plotter.
What is the wattage of the 405nm solid state laser? Where did you buy it?
I like the design and a very nice result . What Wattage is the LASER ?
Something like this maybe .. www.ebay.com/itm/100mw-450nm-Blue-Laser-Diode-Module-analog-Lighting-Show-12vdc-/400532051154?hash=item5d419214d2:g:iM8AAOSwrklVOZzQ
this laser does not work as per the video, the laser diode used in the video is different
what exactly is the difference?
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
Bonjour, superbe vidéo. Quels logiciels utilisez vous? Merci d'avance.
We need more people like you!
Hi, on this film you supposed 405nm ≈ 100mW blue laser diode.
What about really UV 365nm 250 ÷ 1500mW laser led?
Regards.
What kind of photoresist solution/material u used?
Good day,
I am very interested in their software for the laser plotter.
Could you please tell which you are using
Hey! Great job! What software do you use to export the design to the printer so it prints line to line? Is it an Eagle's plugin? Also, what controller do you use to control the laser? The impulses come directly from the ATMega board? Thanks for the help!
Hi, my software translate G-Code from Eagle ULP PCB-GCODE to BMP.
The BMP contains then in the correct resolution per one pixel of the laser.
The advantage is that you can set the isolation very simply.
The software is but still under development.
The machine still does not work 100% perfect. (see my next video with two lasers and more speed).
Yes, the ATmega128 with 32k SRAM controls the motors and the laser just in time. (timerinterrupt). The PC always transmits a complete row, which is then processed.
Oh I see, it makes sense! But you developed the software yourself? You coded the transcription of the bmp lines to the time impulses sequence, or you got the code from a third party? (If so, from where?)
*****
Yes, I write my own programs, Windows programs in C # (Visual Studio), AVR in C (AVR Studio from Atmel).
I milled my boards mainly on my self-built CNC. The resolution is not as good because of the small tools. In addition, the areas of the copper surfaces is very time-consuming. Since I got the idea for the printer
Well, it was a pretty good work! Did you consider using an Arduino platform instead of that ATMega? Since it is (from my point of view) easier to program.
***** You do know that the Arduino is just at ATMega and some "getting started" tools and libraries? Once he has a setup to program it without the Arduino libraries and bootloader, he gets no advantage from using an Arduino board in place of just the raw chip. In fact, I think adding that extra RAM is something that can't be done easily in the Arduino system.
very nice project , can you tell us how to make this laser machine
what cad are you using ,i have tina7 ind,i cannot find a 3f5 model for the 328p in any form factor,i do have a 28 pin dip footprint,but i realy want a TQFP 32 pin footprint,i'm gathering all the bits to make my own cnc ,using the ch340 usb to serial and a atmega 328p of some sort, using all my own driver boards i can minimise unwanted parts and focus on the system needs ,stepper drivers connections for end stop switches,coolant,etc,all on one small pcb,with its own power supply.
IU don't want codes or plans or pdfs,if you could inform me of the cad,did you have 328p icsTQFP types on your pcb driver boards and if so do the 3f5 models come with eagle or whataver cad you used,did you import them,if you imported them can you tell me where from.
you can i believe spray black gloss paint on the copper clad board ,the laser will remove it,relieving you of developer stages and straight to etch,though i would go for a milled board as the laser seems a bit slow,but then this seems to be raster,isn't vector faster,either way,this is a very nice machine,i want one much bigger to make guitar bodies,still,i love this stuff.
Excellent work and ingenuity.
very sick is there a tutorial on how to make this machine
Amazing stuff!!! What kind of PCB are you using? I am not totally sure I understand how laser-ing the copper will do this, except if there is a coating on the PCB that the laser is actually burning off... :) Must say the resolution is amazing!!!
The laser is not burning anything, it just exposures the photosensitive coating that is on the pcb. The 405 nM Laser light is close to the light those boards need, 300-400 nm. Hope this make it more clear for you.
1. Which is the model and specification of laser?
2. Which is the photoresist?
Greate project
Do you control the TMC 260 with SPI Interface or STEP/DIR interface?
Do you publish this project with source ,a want to buil a smal version from your design.
Thank you for sharing your video
what kind of paint you used to record the PCB?
This ink is tolerant to corrosion by iron perchlorate ?
Its a presensitized pcb board
How fine of a dot is your laser focused to ????
Can you teach me how to make my own controller board using ftdi uart and configuring the micro controller
how do you focus laser? using some optics?
can i find more detailed pdf or any document if i want to do this at home if you dont mind
i am not that smart to figure it out all by myself ?
+احمد يونس Its just a CNC frame with stepper motors. The code and the lazer are the hard part. If you don't understand how to make one you probably don't need one anyway.
Hello congratulations for your project this luxury that chemists are using in the process thanks
How do you control laser diode on/off while in work? im trying to find some laser module on ebay but i can not find any why to control it all of them have only vcc and gnd.
Strope the vcc or gnd !!
Simply hock the vcc to your vcc & the gnd to a collector of an NPN through a resistor & hock thr NPN emetter to your gnd then pulse the base of the NPN.
tnx, that was my idea too but since my laser have current control i thought there might be some latency on laser on/off state.
Analog current control is far speedy than stropping frequancy .. it shold work fine.
does anyone knows waht program he uses????
great what about vias??
where to buy the laser head?