I love watching your videos, because I admire your fearlessness, and ingenuity Even if execution doesn't always seem to quite go as you hoped. Keep it up man! Cheers from the states!
Nice work. Crashes hurt the pride more than anything I think. I pranged a slitting saw in to a chuck that was mounted on a rotary table a while ago. Bit of Liquid Metal fixed the scratch on the chuck but it cost me a bit more to have the saw sharpened!!
As the day ends over here Jan 19th. I've been just busy 😕. But I decided to watch your video. My comment is, I had done this too. Used a wooden hole cutter, and used it in Aluminum. Good success, I'm saying, to you....
Hey Artisan, I recommend getting a small bandsaw for cutting non ferrous metals into shapes that you can't or don't want to setup in the CNC. It'll be much faster than doing it by hand and it shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks.
Hey, cool upgrades to your lathe. I would add sommething like excentric fastener on that spindle lock clamp, you probably can even use one from a bycicle seat post or wheel axle.
Came together ok in the end, should be a useful addition. A bandsaw or scrollsaw would have made some of those cuts easier. I'm surprised lathes don't commonly have a spindle lock, maybe even connected to the motor controls so it doesn't burn itself out trying to spin when locked
I’m assuming that lathe has no back gear? On my atlas if I engage the back gear with the main drive pin still engaged as well it’ll lock the spindle solid. Just wondering.
On overhead door openers that mount on the wall they are called jack shaft and only used on bigger commercial doors they have a break assambly that would easily work for what your doing and you could even tie in with the emergency stop button and it would work perfectly for your needs. It has a electronic mechanical switch and that with the e stop button is what would engage it.
Nice job. I did notice, if you look at around 10:02, you're spindle looks like it has a lot of runout on the outer diameter, This may not have any affect, but something for you to look at in any case. Cheers.
The outside diameter mounting flange has a good deal of run out but the chuck itself and the mounting register itself only has about 0.01mm of run out. The run out you see does not affect any lathe turning. Cheers
It's mostly to help my tap and cut threads with a tap and die. It's quite awkward to hold the chuck and there isn't much room, so this has come in handy doing that.
@@artisanmakes oh ok. So you put a die in a tail stock and rotate it there Any other uses of locking the spindle? Sorry for newbie questions, I'm waiting for my 1st lathe ever to arrive
@@TigerCarpenter Yeah, I have a dedicated tailstock die holder too which I bought a few years ago. Other people find uses for spindle locks too. Some people have Dremel attachments for drilling holes in the work and the spindle lock holds the work in place.
@@artisanmakes ok thank you so much for your explanation. now I understand that spindle lock is to use other tools, while the chuck is functioning as the immobilised material holder. cool!
One question: how do you mange NOT to forget to losen the lock after you are don ? It seems needing an electric interlock so that the motor will not get power when the spindle lock is on.
In the 2 years I used this machine it never was an issue. I mean if you want to add a cut off to the motor you can but I never needed to. And if you turned on the motor it would probably stall out
Quite a bit of wonkiness and mistakes, but at the end the lock does its job really well actually, and is quick to use. Pretty good design, and good job. Nice!
I had been thinking of something like this for the same thing, You’d definitely Benefit from a small grinder/sander something like a 1x42 or a disc sander.
Maybe you could have bored out the timber as you were cutting the aluminum plate with the hole saw to allow the boring head to sink a little lower? Keep up the good work!
It might work better, and its an easy fix, but just from a visual stand stand point I would prefer to have the mounting bracket at the rear of the chuck. Cheers
if you ever weld aluminum, TIG is the only option, i like lincoln electric 350, go as big and expensive as you can, with 220v. or better (I had 460v.) and watch Jodi on Welding tips and tricks....
@@artisanmakes - You need to learn the modern putty technique. It's called "rub it in and shape with the finger". Works much better than a tool, and far less sanding needed.
3:11 - So you use the mill to square up the stock. 4:16 - Then you hand cut it into a circular shape LOL WTF? I also noticed the runout in the chuck backplate. Why don't you machine that off, it would take what... 30 seconds?
I was going to cut a different shape that would have made use of the flat sides but I changed part way through the project. And the flange is quite eccentric but the mounting register and spindle taper itself only have about 0.01mm of run out. Not sure how they managed to make that run out at the factory but there you go. Cheers
I think rotary tables are designed to be moved while cutting where as dividing heads are meant to be moved then locked before cutting so there could be a lot of movement in the part if it was being rotated whilst cutting
Mate, I say! Brazing aluminium parts with an aluminium rod is like brazing bronze parts with a bronze rod. Or steel parts with a steel rod. Obviously the rod and the parts will melt at around the same temperature, give or take, which turns the whole process into welda vulgaris. One could just solder'em.
As I understand it, they put additives in it to lower to melting point of the rod to avoid melting the base part. Watch project farms video on this topic, you'll see that the good ones melt at a much lower temperature
@@artisanmakes Absolutely, mate. But your parts aren't of pure Al, rather than of an Al alloy which means they too have lower than Al's melting temperature (actually, temperature range, allows are like that). I stay my ground: you'd be better off should you choose soldering, given your materials and construction requirements. Cheers, mate!
Sometimes when I watch your videos I think "why does he still not have a bandsaw" or "he clearly needs a rotary table", but I am starting to like the style of "bare bones get it done by any means possible" approach. I might actually be disappointed if you go and buy more tools now :)
Exactly! The thought of using a block of pine and deck screws to secure work to the table never crossed my mind, but it worked! Kind of mad at myself for buying that clamping kit now!
Looks great! However, at 10:02 when you're turning the spindle in the new clamp, there's about 1mm of spindle wobble. Since the clamp is locked, it seems to be in the spindle. Just letting you know that maybe your bearings are off a bit? Onya, mate.
The flange is a little eccentric. The spindle runs true with about 0.01mm of run out, but that flange has a good deal of run out which does not affect the accuracy of the lathe
Not all small lathes such as this one have gears inside the head stock, and if it did it would be *much* harder to do it that way than a clamp-type lock applied outside, and I can't imagine what the benefit would be.
@@tcarney57 I was thinking the area with the change gears for the automatic feed. It's pretty accessible. You're right, though, that not all lathes have gears inside the head stock itself. (My Sieg SC2 doesn't have them. 500W Brushless motor... Just recently got it, and are still working to 'make it right'. )
@@norwegiangadgetman Yes, a close-fitting "pawl" swung over the gear on that end of the spindle would work pretty well, I would think. Have fun with your Sieg.
@@tcarney57 A Pawl would probably be a bit more work, but it would be the more elegant solution. I'm putting it on the board for possible upgrades on my own lathe. So far I've swapped the spindle bearings for Angular Contact bearings(roller bearings would have been better, but they're thicker and needs added lubrication) and a QCTP of a different design than the ones you have.(this one may end up in the scraps pile) So I'm currently bingeing on mini lathe videos and asking awkward questions.(It's over 30 years since I used a lathe, so I have a lot to both learn and relearn) I considered the C3 actually, but the SCs have more torque.
@@artisanmakes you don’t need sulphuric acid, hydrochloride acid will do the same. At a concentration on 20:1 should produce the same results. Sulphuric Acid has the potential for a violent reaction when diluted with water hence why it’s supply is restricted in Australian stores
Hydrochloride Acid (HCl is the chemical formula) you can get it at any Bunnings or pool shop, makes sure you ask for concentrate as they normally sell it at 10% concentrate
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope you enjoy the video. Made a few mistakes making this, but its always good to learn from them. Cheers
Mistakes is how we learn, they are the most useful part of every "how to" video.
dont cut stock by hand!
A quicker way to cut out a round shape is by using the hole-circle function in your dro.
Another great video. It's so refreshing watching someone with the same sorts of tools most hobbyists have (like me) solve problems.
It always interests me as a machinist watching someone who only does this as a hobby does things. Still a great video!
I love watching your videos, because I admire your fearlessness, and ingenuity Even if execution doesn't always seem to quite go as you hoped. Keep it up man! Cheers from the states!
nice job! i 3d printed a spindle lock out of pla and it has worked perfectly for two years now.
cheers.
I've even printed change gears to cut seldom used imperial threads. Runs a bit noisy, but works fine.
Nice little lathe upgrade. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Interesting design. Looks like it would hold the chuck quite securely. 👍
Nice! I have a lathe this size and one 3 times this size. They both need spindle locks. Thanks for the idea.
Nice work. Crashes hurt the pride more than anything I think. I pranged a slitting saw in to a chuck that was mounted on a rotary table a while ago. Bit of Liquid Metal fixed the scratch on the chuck but it cost me a bit more to have the saw sharpened!!
As the day ends over here Jan 19th. I've been just busy 😕. But I decided to watch your video. My comment is, I had done this too. Used a wooden hole cutter, and used it in Aluminum. Good success, I'm saying, to you....
Hey Artisan, I recommend getting a small bandsaw for cutting non ferrous metals into shapes that you can't or don't want to setup in the CNC. It'll be much faster than doing it by hand and it shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks.
Great video. It' like This Old Tony and Geoffrey Croker had a baby.
Hi, great video - it's as "real" as one can get - Great Job!
Hey, cool upgrades to your lathe. I would add sommething like excentric fastener on that spindle lock clamp, you probably can even use one from a bycicle seat post or wheel axle.
Came together ok in the end, should be a useful addition. A bandsaw or scrollsaw would have made some of those cuts easier. I'm surprised lathes don't commonly have a spindle lock, maybe even connected to the motor controls so it doesn't burn itself out trying to spin when locked
I’m assuming that lathe has no back gear? On my atlas if I engage the back gear with the main drive pin still engaged as well it’ll lock the spindle solid. Just wondering.
I really like this design. You taught me there’s more than one way to skin a cat. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thankyou, glad you enjoyed the video.
There is, but 'dead' tends to be less painful for both parties ...
@@clasdauskas🤣🤣🤣
Prima! das werde ich für meine Maschine übernehmen, Danke.
Very cool modification.
I fully agree on the welding rods point - these suck!
Shame though, for the price they want for them i'd expect them to melt at the advertised temperature. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Agreed! Cheers mate! :)
On overhead door openers that mount on the wall they are called jack shaft and only used on bigger commercial doors they have a break assambly that would easily work for what your doing and you could even tie in with the emergency stop button and it would work perfectly for your needs. It has a electronic mechanical switch and that with the e stop button is what would engage it.
Nice job. I did notice, if you look at around 10:02, you're spindle looks like it has a lot of runout on the outer diameter, This may not have any affect, but something for you to look at in any case. Cheers.
The outside diameter mounting flange has a good deal of run out but the chuck itself and the mounting register itself only has about 0.01mm of run out. The run out you see does not affect any lathe turning. Cheers
I'm guessing the brazing rods are lead free. They are a lot harder to work with.
Excellent work.
Nice
You can double it as a stand for light
Nicely done.
But I don't understand why we need to immobilise the spindle. Doesn't it stop the lathes from doing anything at all?
It's mostly to help my tap and cut threads with a tap and die. It's quite awkward to hold the chuck and there isn't much room, so this has come in handy doing that.
@@artisanmakes oh ok. So you put a die in a tail stock and rotate it there
Any other uses of locking the spindle? Sorry for newbie questions, I'm waiting for my 1st lathe ever to arrive
@@TigerCarpenter Yeah, I have a dedicated tailstock die holder too which I bought a few years ago. Other people find uses for spindle locks too. Some people have Dremel attachments for drilling holes in the work and the spindle lock holds the work in place.
@@artisanmakes ok thank you so much for your explanation.
now I understand that spindle lock is to use other tools, while the chuck is functioning as the immobilised material holder.
cool!
Man that is Great , I like that method ! I might just do that to my MX210 lathe .. ENJOYED
One question: how do you mange NOT to forget to losen the lock after you are don ? It seems needing an electric interlock so that the motor will not get power when the spindle lock is on.
In the 2 years I used this machine it never was an issue. I mean if you want to add a cut off to the motor you can but I never needed to. And if you turned on the motor it would probably stall out
Great video... 😎
Quite a bit of wonkiness and mistakes, but at the end the lock does its job really well actually, and is quick to use. Pretty good design, and good job. Nice!
Yeah it was just one of those projects that ends up being mistake after mistake. I can tell you I was happy when it was finished. Cheers
I had been thinking of something like this for the same thing, You’d definitely Benefit from a small grinder/sander something like a 1x42 or a disc sander.
Please will some company hook this amazing kid up with a band saw!
R U still using same motor w/v-belt????
Damn fine video. Thank you for sharing. 👍
Nice. 👍 God knows why spindle locks don't come as standard on most lathes. 🤷🏼♂️
Maybe you could have bored out the timber as you were cutting the aluminum plate with the hole saw to allow the boring head to sink a little lower?
Keep up the good work!
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Well done, thanks for the inspiration
believe it or not, a small wood working router using carbide bits works very well on aluminium.
Hey man, love your channel. As a kiwi, can you recommend a steel and aluminium supplier? Specifically, I'm in Tauranga. Cheers.
Im located in NSW so i don't think I can help you much. I buy my material from a place called edcon steel
Great job 👏🏻 you guys will see
Just a small observation: I think the locking bolt better be under the chuck, that way, it doesn't get in your way in the future.
Excellent job!
It might work better, and its an easy fix, but just from a visual stand stand point I would prefer to have the mounting bracket at the rear of the chuck. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Good point. Thank you.
No worries, best part about diy is you can do it how ever you want. Cheers
Handwork! sometimes it is better!👍
if you ever weld aluminum, TIG is the only option, i like lincoln electric 350, go as big and expensive as you can, with 220v. or better (I had 460v.) and watch Jodi on Welding tips and tricks....
One day my goal is to get a tig set up, although there just isnt the space in this workshop.
As they say: "many ways to skin a cat" not that I would ever want to skin a cat. But this one seems to accomplish what you want so 👍👍👍👍👍😊
Putty and paint 😁🤫👍👍👍
Special load bearing putty XD
@@artisanmakes - You need to learn the modern putty technique. It's called "rub it in and shape with the finger". Works much better than a tool, and far less sanding needed.
That’ll work 👍😎👍
3:11 - So you use the mill to square up the stock. 4:16 - Then you hand cut it into a circular shape LOL WTF?
I also noticed the runout in the chuck backplate. Why don't you machine that off, it would take what... 30 seconds?
I was going to cut a different shape that would have made use of the flat sides but I changed part way through the project. And the flange is quite eccentric but the mounting register and spindle taper itself only have about 0.01mm of run out. Not sure how they managed to make that run out at the factory but there you go. Cheers
Nice lock. I think about chainsaw brake - simply use Stell band.
i like it :-) ... maybe it would be a thing to 3d Print the Clamp sould be strong enough
Might work. I only have a DLP printer so that might not be suited to it, but an abs print might indeed work. Cheers
What is so different between a dividing head and a rotary table?
I think rotary tables are designed to be moved while cutting where as dividing heads are meant to be moved then locked before cutting so there could be a lot of movement in the part if it was being rotated whilst cutting
Ah, yes, indeed. You lock and unlock dividing heads between movements. Still...I wonder what's mechanically different. Bearings probably.
Mate, I say! Brazing aluminium parts with an aluminium rod is like brazing bronze parts with a bronze rod. Or steel parts with a steel rod. Obviously the rod and the parts will melt at around the same temperature, give or take, which turns the whole process into welda vulgaris.
One could just solder'em.
As I understand it, they put additives in it to lower to melting point of the rod to avoid melting the base part. Watch project farms video on this topic, you'll see that the good ones melt at a much lower temperature
@@artisanmakes Absolutely, mate. But your parts aren't of pure Al, rather than of an Al alloy which means they too have lower than Al's melting temperature (actually, temperature range, allows are like that).
I stay my ground: you'd be better off should you choose soldering, given your materials and construction requirements.
Cheers, mate!
@@TheZzziggy Cheers you do you I guess :)
Awesome
The fly cutter terrifies me.
Sometimes when I watch your videos I think "why does he still not have a bandsaw" or "he clearly needs a rotary table", but I am starting to like the style of "bare bones get it done by any means possible" approach. I might actually be disappointed if you go and buy more tools now :)
Exactly! The thought of using a block of pine and deck screws to secure work to the table never crossed my mind, but it worked! Kind of mad at myself for buying that clamping kit now!
Looks great! However, at 10:02 when you're turning the spindle in the new clamp, there's about 1mm of spindle wobble. Since the clamp is locked, it seems to be in the spindle. Just letting you know that maybe your bearings are off a bit?
Onya, mate.
The flange is a little eccentric. The spindle runs true with about 0.01mm of run out, but that flange has a good deal of run out which does not affect the accuracy of the lathe
Tight.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
This is a Chinese Mini Lathe, right? Why not just add something that locks the gears inside it?
Not all small lathes such as this one have gears inside the head stock, and if it did it would be *much* harder to do it that way than a clamp-type lock applied outside, and I can't imagine what the benefit would be.
@@tcarney57 I was thinking the area with the change gears for the automatic feed. It's pretty accessible. You're right, though, that not all lathes have gears inside the head stock itself. (My Sieg SC2 doesn't have them. 500W Brushless motor... Just recently got it, and are still working to 'make it right'. )
@@norwegiangadgetman Yes, a close-fitting "pawl" swung over the gear on that end of the spindle would work pretty well, I would think. Have fun with your Sieg.
@@tcarney57 A Pawl would probably be a bit more work, but it would be the more elegant solution. I'm putting it on the board for possible upgrades on my own lathe. So far I've swapped the spindle bearings for Angular Contact bearings(roller bearings would have been better, but they're thicker and needs added lubrication) and a QCTP of a different design than the ones you have.(this one may end up in the scraps pile) So I'm currently bingeing on mini lathe videos and asking awkward questions.(It's over 30 years since I used a lathe, so I have a lot to both learn and relearn) I considered the C3 actually, but the SCs have more torque.
Anodising the aluminium would have made a slick finish
Yeah, im looking to get an anodising set up soon. Currently not easy to find sulphuric acid for the job
@@artisanmakes you don’t need sulphuric acid, hydrochloride acid will do the same. At a concentration on 20:1 should produce the same results. Sulphuric Acid has the potential for a violent reaction when diluted with water hence why it’s supply is restricted in Australian stores
Hydrochloride Acid (HCl is the chemical formula) you can get it at any Bunnings or pool shop, makes sure you ask for concentrate as they normally sell it at 10% concentrate
Hydrochloric Acid keeps changing it on me
@@dondawson7409 I have seen people try and use HCl to do this using various set ups, but it never seemed to work as well as battery acid.
G day if you're in Sydney I have a fabrication shop if you need any material or need some welding AC or DC I can probably help
I'll cut one on my router for you if you draw it up. Just message me.
very best