You did a phenomenal job on this video. Be careful on the differential fluid. If it's quadra trac, it takes one type. If it's not quadra trac, it takes a different weight. Best way to see if your model is a quadra trac is to look for any badging on the rear tailgate or by the shifter on a floor console.
Thanks for the straight forward, informative video. I was unsure about changing my bearings, but thanks to your video, I had both sides done before lunch. I also spent less than half what my preferred mechanic had quoted me to do both sides, on parts and tools.
Thanks dude, this is exactly what I needed to watch. About to change them on my 64 Malibu. Everyone made it sound so hard. I'm off to pop them in. Thanks again.
A million thanks man! My Haynes showed 2 pics about this, and the rest was verbal. I couldnt visualize this job for anything. My seals started leaking, mid Feb. up here in Maine. You saved my bacon! Thx again.
Thank you for your video. I have my Jeep rear brakes tore down and axle shafts removed but had no clue how to remove and install new bearings and seals. Your video was exactly what I needed to know. THANKS !
This has to be one of the best descriptions and DIY vids I have seen in ages. Informative and methodical...perfectly able to follow this vid step by step in my workshop. Do more vids of other jeep repairs...ideal presenter!
Awesome I have the exact same year. I'll be doing this for my jeep. I be adding a disc brake conversion kit to my rear along with a Spartan locker in the rear.
I just wanted to say thanks for the video. I changed my driver side rear bearing today and your video was perfect. Note....don't let the gears fall while putting the pin back in lol a two hour job took 6 cuz that's what I did lol
Ha Ha! Great video, I also agree, other videos on this were hard to follow, it's like people get on it for their own soap opera box. Thanks a bunch. The socket might be 1 3/4'' for hitting bearing and seal in, I saw on another video.
nice video.. notice a little leakage out my axle seal today.. just the info i needed. you saved me some time on figuring out what i need before diving in on this little project.. Liked post and subscribed TWO THUMBS UP BRO, Keep the videos coming.
You're welcome! Yeah, those manuals are good, but sometimes they just dont know how to word things, lol. Take care and good luck on those seals! From Ontario :)
Excellent video! One recommendation - a "mil" is a unit of length equal to a thousandth of an inch. Mil and millimeter shouldn't be used interchangeably.
very good vid just remember to add a limited slip additive to oil if yours has the trac lok a dealer can tell you this with the vlast 8 digitsd of your serial#
Great video! I am going to attempt this tomorrow. I was wondering how you removed the three bearings so you could get the puller on the outside ring. Looks like I'm going to be using the same type of puller. Thanks, Pat
Hello and thanks! I used the slide hammer to pull the three rollers out. Do one at a time. Hook the one roller and slam it out! Repeat! Its a fairly simple job. Good luck!!
Nice instructional, thanks! 1) What's the blue 'Carquest' thing, a siphon for the differential oil? 2) How hard is the C-clip to get back on, and how likely the gears in the differential may all come apart after you remove it? I'm thinking about doing this, but afraid of screwing up those gears, as I know nothing about how they go back together.
Hello and thank you! You are right, the blue carquest thing is a siphon. I used it to suck out the gear oil from the bottle to fill up the rear end. It makes it very clean. The C-clip goes back on VERY easily. just put it on so the open part is facing the bottom, that way there it doesnt fall off when you pop the axle back in place. If you do one side at a time, you will have no problems with gears falling out my friend. I did both at the same time which is really risky for gears falling out. but if they did, you'd just have to work them around till they fit back in and line up. Good luck with the repair!
Old or worn out systems need thicker oil or fluids. You are putting NEW system fluid. That might be too thin oil for the worn out parts inside. The higher the mileage, the higher the oil number to use.. On engine is same principle..
Well first and foremost, this is very a detailed video. Detailed enough that I actually attempted to perform this repair. Everything went well except one thing, my spider gears fell out!!!! This was very frustrating to me when it happened because I was working outside and ran out of daylight! So now, I'm going to handle everything in the morning. After reviewing the video again I see that you pressed the seal on until it was flush. I actually ended pressing mine a 1/4" in pass flush. Do you think I should have problem with the seal being in too far? Either way it goes, Kudos and thanks again for making this video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello and thank you much! aw man, well, the same thing happened to me before too! those gears.... Hope it all went good from there. Its fine if the seal is further then flush, no problem. Take care!
Great Video, I have one question though. I think doing this will fix my problem but, I have a knocking noise coming from the back axle and gets faster as I accelerate. When I am parked I can go shake the tire and get the knocking noise to. I have a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee, any feed back would be very helpful. Thanks
Sorry about the late reply. Thanks! hmmm maybe check to see if your exhaust is hitting anything. also check to make sure your driveshaft u-joints and wheels arent lose. Hopefully you found out what it was!
I just told the parts guy what I have and they got it for me. Pretty sure you can also get the number from the actual bearing. Alternatively, you can go to the dealer and get one. They'll take your VIN number and look up the correct one based on your vehicles build.
No, Dana 30 bearings are different than Dana 35 bearings. Also, it appears from this video that his (rear) axle is a Chrysler 8.25" axle--not a Dana 35.
Your a pretty good wrench! C-clip not C lock though lol. When i drain diff fluid like that, i leave the top bolt really loose, remove all other bolts, then i place 1 bolt on the bottom but behind the diff cover, leaving it open and on an angle, less messy. Time to lift that jeep!!!
Great video. Question.....why won't my ring gear spin? The Haynes manual for my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee says to lift the rear of the car which I did. The spider gears turn but the ring gear won't move cause its hooked to the driveshaft which isn't moving. Am I supposed to lift the rear and the front of the car?
Ok , seeing you didnt pack the bearings with greas as you normally would front bearings Im assumning the gear oil in the pumpkin does the rear bearing lubrication also
It is very common for rear wheel trucks and even the 4x4 jeep front axle assemblies too. If you pack these bearings with grease you would burn them up. So do not pack with grease! it would just get pushed out from the bearing due to the straight roller design and it would make a barrier to prevent the oil from getting to the bearing rollers.
AcousticHills Thank you for a speedy reply and respectfully the knowledge gained . Started this project yesterday but due to wifes work and the only car we have I will wait until the weekend and the next paycheck for the bearings and seals . The job will be much easier than i first thought thanks to your video .This is the 2nd rear end for my jeep after the original was bad when i bought it for a bargain , but I replaced it with one from 4 cylinder ($50) that was a lower ratio than the original so any use of the jeep in 4x4 mode is not feasible , I dont off road anyway and have since detached the front driveline and all shafts because of the front u joints being bad , its a to and from work street jeep anyway ,sad but true but i love that 4.0 what a great little motor and the jeep itself has been worth every penny from reliabilty standpoint . The lowrer ratio 2nd rearend has alaways had that whine that i associated with the old Willis WW2 type jeeps aand never given any trouble in the ten years Ive ran it ,but this winter it has developed a bit of a rumble that will go away after a mile or two until warm or until oil has made its way from the pumpkin to the bearings but either way the bearings are bad and about to go .Its still driveable but its time to replace them before the inevitable occurs thanks again for your help
@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285 peening is slightly scoring the inside of the housing to make the race an interference fit. If the housing is worn out too much then this will now work. Your case could be it is worn past that option which is why it would need the whole thing.
Where do you buy emory cloth? I've asked the people at my local auto parts store numerous times, and they always look at me like I'm crazy, and then show me fine sand paper.
If this is all it takes to replace wheel bearings, why does it always cost so much to get it done? 400 a pop. Also, apparently, for a local shop to remove that axle cover, inspect the gears, and at more gear oil (assuming there isn't anything wrong with the gears), it costs 200 bucks. I'm not mechanically inclined at all and I feel like if I had the proper tools that I could to this in a couple of hours.
I hear you there. The reason being is they have to pay for the tech working on the vehicle, tools, building, property tax, insurance, etc, etc. plus parts and in the end make enough money to turn a profit. It is really easy tho, so I would recommend doing it yourself seeing as you can buy the tools needed and parts for a whole lot less then what a shop charges just for labour on one side. If your confident, go for it :)
thank you. this old video is one of the BEST EXPLAINED on the TH-cam. Simple and easy
Thank you, I appreciate it!
You did a phenomenal job on this video. Be careful on the differential fluid. If it's quadra trac, it takes one type. If it's not quadra trac, it takes a different weight. Best way to see if your model is a quadra trac is to look for any badging on the rear tailgate or by the shifter on a floor console.
Nicely done. Simple and well explained, thank you.
Thanks for the straight forward, informative video. I was unsure about changing my bearings, but thanks to your video, I had both sides done before lunch. I also spent less than half what my preferred mechanic had quoted me to do both sides, on parts and tools.
Thanks dude, this is exactly what I needed to watch. About to change them on my 64 Malibu. Everyone made it sound so hard. I'm off to pop them in. Thanks again.
Finally a decent video on rear (not front). Good stuff!
A million thanks man! My Haynes showed 2 pics about this, and the rest was verbal. I couldnt visualize this job for anything. My seals started leaking, mid Feb. up here in Maine. You saved my bacon! Thx again.
Thank you for your video. I have my Jeep rear brakes tore down and axle shafts removed but had no clue how to remove and install new bearings and seals. Your video was exactly what I needed to know. THANKS !
Jim Trenton anytime! im glad it helped :)
Great job on the video - I totally understood everything - instructions were clear - great info! Thank you!
Great work man, you did a great job explaining everything!
This has to be one of the best descriptions and DIY vids I have seen in ages. Informative and methodical...perfectly able to follow this vid step by step in my workshop. Do more vids of other jeep repairs...ideal presenter!
Awesome I have the exact same year. I'll be doing this for my jeep. I be adding a disc brake conversion kit to my rear along with a Spartan locker in the rear.
I just wanted to say thanks for the video. I changed my driver side rear bearing today and your video was perfect. Note....don't let the gears fall while putting the pin back in lol a two hour job took 6 cuz that's what I did lol
This is a well put together video! We'll see how it goes in the morning...my rear bearing is definitely on it's last legs!
Thank you and good luck my friend!
thanks dude i just replaced my bearings and saved prob around $250 cause my mechanic would have charged $300 to do this
Great video. Well done. Thanks. And you're right: those other videos are worthless.
thank you my friend! glad it helped :)
Very nice video, I didnt have to pause even once, sweet and to the point. I agree with the other comment, other videos confused me.
It was almost night time and you did it!!! Impressive timing
Haha, thank you! It's a fun job, not too hard :)
What a great video! Thank you so much for posting as I now feel confident to have a bash at our Jeep. Top work fella!
Very clear narrative of the repair thxs for sharing
Thank you for the video man. This was definitely very informative and much-needed
Great video!
Pretty good but some poor camera action sometimes. Gives a little different perspective than other videos. Thanks for sharing.
You did a good job. You should have posted links for the replacement parts
Awesome video....very good at pointing everything out.
thanks dude, you made it look easy and now i feel confident to do mine. nto that hard
Good deal man, I'm in for the same thing, thanks
Ha Ha! Great video, I also agree, other videos on this were hard to follow, it's like people get on it for their own soap opera box. Thanks a bunch. The socket might be 1 3/4'' for hitting bearing and seal in, I saw on another video.
nice video.. notice a little leakage out my axle seal today.. just the info i needed.
you saved me some time on figuring out what i need before diving in on this little project.. Liked post and subscribed TWO THUMBS UP BRO, Keep the videos coming.
Hey thanks! Glad it helped!
You are welcome! I'm glad it helped. I used a large socket to hammer it in with :)
You're welcome! Yeah, those manuals are good, but sometimes they just dont know how to word things, lol. Take care and good luck on those seals! From Ontario :)
excellent no bs video thanks i needed this today
Joe Fiscal Thank you very much! I cant remember what size socket i used, I just picked one from a set i have that matched the best... sorry.
Excellent video! One recommendation - a "mil" is a unit of length equal to a thousandth of an inch. Mil and millimeter shouldn't be used interchangeably.
Wrong 1.00mm = 39.3701 thousandth of an inch
The diff is called a Salisbury Diff or half shaft. The hub is permanently connected to the axle.
Great video! Keep up the good work buddy.
Thank very easy simple video life saver thanks a much!
Thank you very much. I appreciate that. Whatever repairs it needs I'll post a DIY video!
very good vid just remember to add a limited slip additive to oil if yours has the trac lok a dealer can tell you this with the vlast 8 digitsd of your serial#
I can smell the diff oil from here
Nice video. Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks! Subscribing now.
Thank you! I'm glad it helped.
Great video! I am going to attempt this tomorrow. I was wondering how you removed the three bearings so you could get the puller on the outside ring. Looks like I'm going to be using the same type of puller. Thanks, Pat
Hello and thanks! I used the slide hammer to pull the three rollers out. Do one at a time. Hook the one roller and slam it out! Repeat! Its a fairly simple job. Good luck!!
AcousticHills Thanks again! I'll let you know how it turns out.
Great vid mate! Thanks for sharing!
Nice instructional, thanks! 1) What's the blue 'Carquest' thing, a siphon for the differential oil? 2) How hard is the C-clip to get back on, and how likely the gears in the differential may all come apart after you remove it? I'm thinking about doing this, but afraid of screwing up those gears, as I know nothing about how they go back together.
Hello and thank you! You are right, the blue carquest thing is a siphon. I used it to suck out the gear oil from the bottle to fill up the rear end. It makes it very clean. The C-clip goes back on VERY easily. just put it on so the open part is facing the bottom, that way there it doesnt fall off when you pop the axle back in place. If you do one side at a time, you will have no problems with gears falling out my friend. I did both at the same time which is really risky for gears falling out. but if they did, you'd just have to work them around till they fit back in and line up. Good luck with the repair!
AcousticHills Thanks for the info!
Old or worn out systems need thicker oil or fluids. You are putting NEW system fluid. That might be too thin oil for the worn out parts inside. The higher the mileage, the higher the oil number to use.. On engine is same principle..
Great video well explained. Thanks
Thank you buddy
Very informative
Well first and foremost, this is very a detailed video. Detailed enough that I actually attempted to perform this repair. Everything went well except one thing, my spider gears fell out!!!!
This was very frustrating to me when it happened because I was working outside and ran out of daylight! So now, I'm going to handle everything in the morning.
After reviewing the video again I see that you pressed the seal on until it was flush. I actually ended pressing mine a 1/4" in pass flush. Do you think I should have problem with the seal being in too far?
Either way it goes, Kudos and thanks again for making this video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello and thank you much! aw man, well, the same thing happened to me before too! those gears.... Hope it all went good from there. Its fine if the seal is further then flush, no problem.
Take care!
Yea, I got them back in with a couple of Hail Mary's, lol. Thank you, the truck is running beautiful....
Joe Smith lol, nice! glad to hear. Take care
I know its a some time after your comment But the spiders will drop if you take both axles out while the pin is out .
great video
Some bearing info ref part numbers would help others
Hey thanks! Im glad it helped.
Good job!
awesome video, thanks!
Great vid! Thanks
Thank you! Happy it helped
Thank you and Thanks for the tip. Thats good to know.
Will this work for a Dana 35
great work what the size of socket ?
Great Video! No BS, no yacking about usless info. Good improv of the slide hammer. Make more Jeep repair videos man
Hey, Thanks a lot! Whatever it needs I'll do. She's been too good of a gal lately
;-)
Your welcome! glad to help!
Thanks... Amazing video solution That's what I call social intelligence at work ... in the information age!
Thank you and anytime!
You are welcome :) Glad to help!
Great Video, I have one question though. I think doing this will fix my problem but, I have a knocking noise coming from the back axle and gets faster as I accelerate. When I am parked I can go shake the tire and get the knocking noise to. I have a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee, any feed back would be very helpful. Thanks
Sorry about the late reply. Thanks! hmmm maybe check to see if your exhaust is hitting anything. also check to make sure your driveshaft u-joints and wheels arent lose. Hopefully you found out what it was!
Thank you so much for posting this! Did you have to add a slip additive to the differential fluid for this axle?
good job..my jeep is a 97 Cherokee I wonder if it close to the same.mine has disbreak not drum breaks on the rear
the drum is the parking break
What size socket ?
Will my wheel fall off If I wait to replace them?
How do you know which bearing you need? There are so many different bearing on the market with different dimensions.. Spicer 35, 8.25 etc.
I just told the parts guy what I have and they got it for me. Pretty sure you can also get the number from the actual bearing.
Alternatively, you can go to the dealer and get one. They'll take your VIN number and look up the correct one based on your vehicles build.
@@AcousticHills thank you
great work
thank you
todo estubo perfect solo te falto armarlo tambien con herramioentas especiales
Thanks! wish i understood more then the word perfect ;-)
i,m mechanic my
from is veracruz mexico
Heyy what bearing type you used. Was it Dana 35. I have a stock XJ with a Dana 30 diff. I can only find Dana 35 bearings for it. Will it fit??
No, Dana 30 bearings are different than Dana 35 bearings. Also, it appears from this video that his (rear) axle is a Chrysler 8.25" axle--not a Dana 35.
ok thank you and good video!!
thanks my friend and no problem!
Hey quick question. Isn't there an inner bearing as well?
Not on an 8.25 like the one in the vid. Not on any Jeep axle that i know of. D35, D44, etc
Your a pretty good wrench! C-clip not C lock though lol. When i drain diff fluid like that, i leave the top bolt really loose, remove all other bolts, then i place 1 bolt on the bottom but behind the diff cover, leaving it open and on an angle, less messy.
Time to lift that jeep!!!
Hey thanks! Yea, my terminology isn't perfect lol, but working on it ;) Good tip too fellow tech, take care!
AcousticHills it IS a C-lock, the Haynes repair manual calls it the same name.
Good vid. I think I can do it after seeing this.
I hope you get a paper cut from that haynes manual Doug Jackson.
Good job thanks
thank you
Awe man, you didn't state what part# for the bearing or what socket size to drive them in.
Great video. Question.....why won't my ring gear spin? The Haynes manual for my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee says to lift the rear of the car which I did. The spider gears turn but the ring gear won't move cause its hooked to the driveshaft which isn't moving. Am I supposed to lift the rear and the front of the car?
I think maybe put the car in Neutral to allow the driveshaft to spin, allowing your ring gear to turn. HTH.
nice video ! Didn't you remove the racers ? Thanks!
Thanks! The races are part of the housing and bearing cage 👍
@@AcousticHills thanks !
Good job on the video.Would this work on my 1997 jeep grand cheeokee
OH ya....Subcribed!
Ok , seeing you didnt pack the bearings with greas as you normally would front bearings Im assumning the gear oil in the pumpkin does the rear bearing lubrication also
thank you, im glad it helped! Yes that is correct. They are oil bath bearings and do get lubed by the diff oil.
It is very common for rear wheel trucks and even the 4x4 jeep front axle assemblies too. If you pack these bearings with grease you would burn them up. So do not pack with grease! it would just get pushed out from the bearing due to the straight roller design and it would make a barrier to prevent the oil from getting to the bearing rollers.
AcousticHills
Thank you for a speedy reply and respectfully the knowledge gained . Started this project yesterday but due to wifes work and the only car we have I will wait until the weekend and the next paycheck for the bearings and seals . The job will be much easier than i first thought thanks to your video .This is the 2nd rear end for my jeep after the original was bad when i bought it for a bargain , but I replaced it with one from 4 cylinder ($50) that was a lower ratio than the original so any use of the jeep in 4x4 mode is not feasible , I dont off road anyway and have since detached the front driveline and all shafts because of the front u joints being bad , its a to and from work street jeep anyway ,sad but true but i love that 4.0 what a great little motor and the jeep itself has been worth every penny from reliabilty standpoint . The lowrer ratio 2nd rearend has alaways had that whine that i associated with the old Willis WW2 type jeeps aand never given any trouble in the ten years Ive ran it ,but this winter it has developed a bit of a rumble that will go away after a mile or two until warm or until oil has made its way from the pumpkin to the bearings but either way the bearings are bad and about to go .Its still driveable but its time to replace them before the inevitable occurs thanks again for your help
AcousticHills
Also great info to know about this as well , and understand the reason 100% for no grease thanks again
Eddie Joe not a problem and you are most welcome! I hope it all goes smooth!
great video, all others were longer than the actual process lol is that the Chrysler 8.25?
Thanks! haha, i hear you there :)
yes its the 825
Thanks you, cheers!
What do you do if you find the race is spinning in the housing??
I would peen the housing with and punch and then install the race. It wont spin after that and youd be good to go.
@@AcousticHills . Is there a video on that? How do you do it?
Shop want's to put new housing $1200 + labor.
@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285 peening is slightly scoring the inside of the housing to make the race an interference fit.
If the housing is worn out too much then this will now work.
Your case could be it is worn past that option which is why it would need the whole thing.
What’s the size of that socket to pound on with the hammer
1a auto has some good videos for this
Awesome, what size socket for hammering in the bearing??
Thank you, I cant remember what size I used. But anything that will fit! (use the old bearing perhaps)
wondering if I could use this as for my 2006 jeep wrangler.... how much different it will be...
yes, im pretty sure its the same set-up. Good luck!
worked like a charm... ty for saving me a crapton of money
Dave Kimberlin You are very welcome!! Glad it worked :)
Where do you buy emory cloth? I've asked the people at my local auto parts store numerous times, and they always look at me like I'm crazy, and then show me fine sand paper.
Emery cloth is basically sand paper, they have emery cloth there :D
yes
Oh. Where did you get that tool you used to hammer it in?
Would this be a fix for a wobbling rear wheel? I have a 2001 Cherokee that has one wobbling wheel on the right rear.
Hello, bad bearings would be one cause for sure. But i would check your wheel nuts, hub, axle, tire/ rim, etc when you have it apart too.
Almost sounds like a slipped belt in the tire very easy to identify especially if you're really feeling it
what kind of noise doest it make when u get a bad wheel bearing?
its a grinding/ scraping noise. if you turn hard left and hear it louder, its the right side. if it disappears its your left side.
AcousticHills my 2 rear tires make a howling noise as I accelerate and the faster i go the higher pitched it is. Is that the Bearing?
If this is all it takes to replace wheel bearings, why does it always cost so much to get it done? 400 a pop.
Also, apparently, for a local shop to remove that axle cover, inspect the gears, and at more gear oil (assuming there isn't anything wrong with the gears), it costs 200 bucks.
I'm not mechanically inclined at all and I feel like if I had the proper tools that I could to this in a couple of hours.
I hear you there. The reason being is they have to pay for the tech working on the vehicle, tools, building, property tax, insurance, etc, etc. plus parts and in the end make enough money to turn a profit.
It is really easy tho, so I would recommend doing it yourself seeing as you can buy the tools needed and parts for a whole lot less then what a shop charges just for labour on one side. If your confident, go for it :)
lol, one of the gears fell in for me before too. its not a good thing haha.
iS THE 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE BUILT THE SAME WAY??
Yep
You could've just put it on Park to stop the drive shaft
Was this a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 axle?
This is the chrysler 825
Can't get the c clips out axle won't pushing for another
Can't get the clips out axle wont push in for enough
It should fall out no problem. Make sure you push the axle in.
i chikened out
Noooooo, my guy, do it!