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Testimony: 34 years ago when I was 21, I took the guard off my 10" Miter saw to cut 4 1/4" baseboard. The saw was on the floor, & once when I got up after a cut, my hand swung into the blade as the brake just engaged. Cut between my right thumb & wrist, cut the radial nerve & hit the bone. 22 stitches to close it up. I was lucky, lost no permanent function. I put the guard back on.
A very experienced and otherwise intelligent carpenter I worked with also lost a couple of fingers to a mitre saw whose blade guard had been removed. Most of us are prone to rushing and an accident only takes the slightest instant of distraction.
More reasons not to work on the floor. My father does that crap readily. (Not the blade gaurd but floor cutting) It's horrible for workflow. Was your saw not a sliding compound? Our bosch 12" slices any molding I've thrown @ it and the gaurd is never an issue.
@brandonhoffman4712 It was 34 years ago, I'm pretty sure there were no sliding compound miter saws. If there was, I couldn't afford one. I'm 55 now and have refined my work habits.
Earning my OSHA 30 card was one of the best things that could have happened to me, even at 49 years old. Our class sat for an entire semester, learning about all the ways you can die, and all the ways your life can change doing tradeswork--no matter how old you are or how much experience you have. Most folks were bored, but that class changed the way I look at everything. I already knew this life is precious, but it really drove home just how much. By the way, I'm a North Carolinian, too. If they'd had apprenticeships here, I might have gotten into the field long ago. As it is, you chance learning from people who believe that these techniques are safe. I would have liked to have gotten into this work, but I also feel as if I dodged a bullet. Thanks for the excellent content!
While working on a bridge construction crew about 40 years ago a young laborer (new hire) tried to do a “knee cut”on a 2x4. He cut his thigh pretty badly when the worm drive saw he was using kicked back. He had previously seen older workers doing knee cuts (I never did). I wound up driving him to the hospital, which was about 30 miles away, quite a few stitches and multiple layers. There was not a lot of emphasis put on job site safety back then, and not just in the carpentry end of construction. I now credit my several years of construction work as a major contributor to my poor hearing now.
This is one thing I do preach to younger carpenters all the time. Don't let old timers try to shame you into being deaf or blind...put on your glasses and your ear plugs. But don't ask me where the harness is because ain't nobody got time for that or even knows how to put it on. Welcome to hard dollar in Texas baby!
@@jerrellbevers6071I want to yell at these guys who won't use eye and ear protection! Starting out as a remodeler in the mid '70s, and for it least a decade beyond, I didn't use ear protection. Now I deal with a significant amount of ear ringing. Tinnitus! It's no fun. I tell the young guys if they want to be able to hear the laughter of their children, and then grandchildren, to wear those earplugs! I keep fresh ones on hand at all times.
I've used the "knee cut" on a few occasions. Afterwards I realize how incredibly stupid it was! I know I used up my odds of going uninjured after getting through it.
I was on a job site where a guy had his blade guard blocked open. He was making a cut up on the roof holding a 2x4 in his hand and bracing against his leg. im not sure if he wasnt paying attention but the saw ran through and hit the front of his leg at the ankle cutting almost the depth of the blade. Not only that but with the force he was using to push through the wood he hit his leg again before he could react. The second hit got through his bone and his foot was barely attached by a small piece of skin. Not only was he badly injured but now he also had to be rescued from the roof. His life changed forever that day. Im 55 now and ive seen three other very serious life altering accidents at work and probably hundreds of "pretty bad" ones. It only takes that one time and theres no going back, no oops, and no do overs... please take safety seriously. When you take risks you put the people you love and who need and depend on you to be whole at risk too. Not to mention even just the pretty bad ones end up with hospital and doctors and follow ups and medications. Often a surgery or two or more. Out of work for days weeks months.. Physical therapy, appointments, care and assistance from your loved ones family or friends. Even if the docs can fix you up like new its not worth it.
Keep em coming! My first thought with power tools in general is "is this a good idea?" I have great respect for any power tool, saws especially because i almost cut off my thumb when I was a kid "helping" my dad. It was decades ago and it was a hand saw but I still vividly remember the pain, the steel scratching my bone, the blood, the tears... Trust me... You do not want to know. I'm 49 and to this day, when I prep to make a cut, the first thing I do is look to make sure my right thumb is safe because i almost cut it off. Play it safe kids... Don't "play" with saws. They're not toys. They're made to remove things and it will hurt really bad and you will regret it for the rest of your life. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes.
Had a similar experience with a chainsaw. I was in high school, guy paid me good money to help him remove some trees. I had used a chainsaw before, but I got lazy with safety because it was hot out. Was wearing shorts and trying to move quickly through the job. Chainsaw hit my right shin, just above the ankle. I’m lucky to still have my foot, the saw barely missed the bone.
I have to tell you what I like about your channel. It is related to my favorite saying. It goes, the smart man learns from his own mistakes, the wise man learns from others mistakes, and the fool learns from nobody’s mistakes. We are able to get wisdom from your mistakes or actually from your wisdom in seeing other peoples mistakes. By watching your channel, we can avoid a lot of grief and learn how to do things in the correct safe way. Thank you.😊
Thank you thank you thank you! I am a beginner, working on very small jobs around the house and you have given me the confidence to tackle some basic jobs. Today I patched a hole in the floor by cutting a board with a low end circular saw that I measured from the blade and guided with a level, measuring with a speed square, and using a drill block to keep my pilot holes straight. There are many more projects around the home that require more skill. I purchased a kreg 520 pro pocket hole jig to get started. This house needs a whole lot of work, thank you for the inspiration and skill sharing!
I've been watching a lot more of these channels to help my nephew learn how to identify and learn on this platform as the age of DIYERS and early tradesman is shifting and i'm coming to love this channel. I still do wood work but mostly only to fabrication as i got older and this is a very good idea to show ppl. I like how you did it and the set up. you're making a very good nuanced point about speed with respect to safety and why "safeties" as we call them are a loathed person on our jobsite but we all know they save our lives simply by their presence and not wanting a fine or write up haha. carpenters scare the hell out of me when we share sites bc your tools are small enough to handle with easee but still lethal potentially. atleast while cutting carbon fiber frames I literally dont have a choice but to be safe and be prepped with PPE and operate a stationary tool. I like how you highli'ght WHY ppl see these incredibly dangerous maneuvers rather than gawk at them. bc you're right. people do them al the time. and while a highly experienced person can be injured, what you don't see is the 30+ years of their understanding of the tool, subtle body position that still allows a mostly safe use case, and other little things a DIYer won't know that still keeps a rushed carpenter as you lot tend to always be safe.
Top safety tips. Thanks for taking the time to share them with the community. I'd say the most important tip to staying in one piece when using power tools has to be taking your time and not rushing. Of course, you make the point that when we are working on site, and up against it, there is always a tendency to take short cuts. That might be an option for experienced professionals, but not for the hobby woodworker, who - often as not - will be working alone in a garage workshop. The foot support, for me anyway, seemed the most ill advised, although none of the dodgy practices mentioned seem at all necessary.
Also, it goes without saying, but when do we cut the miter/notch/etc etc on the wrong side? When we rush. 90% of my mistakes? Late in the day. Trying to finish something off before I quit.
i'm still really new to woodworking and power tools. but i have a huge respect for that power as well. I've been going with the mindset of being intentional and not forcing something if it isn't going through. I really appreciate the tips and techniques in how to safely use these tools, esp when injury can happen so quickly and suddenly.
Battery tools better , no cords , stops quicker , ,has torque, does the job , little quieter not as dangerous but still need use right skills , , , get brushes, for commercial use , I still prefer to use hand tools , still can cut just be smart 😊
As a 20+ yr wood hobbyist and a 45 yr professional commercial electrical foreman, I applaud your safety focus. I've seen people injured on jobsites and it's life-altering. I'm happy to say that none of my men ever left the job in an ambulance because I was such an anal S.O.B. about it. Especially because people tend to think that they know how it's gonna go, but don't consider what could possibly happen. The parallel is the same. You don't know what you don't know. If you're a hobbyist, and especially new at it, then you don't know. Time is not an issue for you. Keeping your limbs and digits should be. Be safe out there, gentlemen. Most of us work alone. There might not be anyone to hear your cries over the tool noise. 😮
So true! The one or two times I’ve been tempted to try a risky cut, all I have to do is remind myself that I live way out in the country and work by myself at least 80% of the time! Edit: autocorrect mistake🙄
Way to go, making me feel like a jerk now! I was originally going to edit my comment to say "ladies and gentlemen", but then I thought "nah, it'll be alright". I see more and more gals are getting into this hobby as is obvious by the replies. My apologies 😕
Great video. I learned a few things that I guess I should have known before. I have remodeled homes for decades. Framing is a very small percentage of the work I do. I really like the table saw gravity technique. Looking forward to trying it out sometime. Ha ha. I can't imagine not flip ripping. I'm older now and seldom cut off the foot method. Aluminum benches are pretty cheep now and scatter my project sites. However, when I used to do it I used the far foot (for a righty, the left) to hold the board, for better balance stability and distance from the cut. Importantly I would put a tilt on the board which is easy to do with your leg and foot. This allows the the saw to more easily glide down the cut. I have felt this gravity method makes it much easier to control the heavy saw even compared to cutting from a bench. I am impressed with your you tube and wish I had your knowledge presentation skills. Thank you.
As I get older, man those safety tips become far more critical to my survival :) Very important tips Nate. Recently I got into making wooden spoons from scrap. The scary parts are using a router table to round the handle and using a flush-trim bit to create multiple copies. Spoons are not large objects and tackling it, even with 20 years+ of experience on a router - I'm still extremely cautious because it just takes one careless move with your fingers and then its' fingers - 1. Dave...
i returned a small router i bought because it was a death trap you could just easily stick finger on spinning tool while holding it in one hand no guard to cover sides of cutting tool
@@ranger178 IMHO, routers in general are the most dangerous tools a woodworker can use. Granted, grinders are extremely dangerous but I rarely use one. Routers, I can't make any furniture without that terrifying tool.
grinders I use a lot with cut off wheels and wire brushes and such i don't use the crazy chainsaw attachment on them I can bump grinder disks and just get a small abrasion. but routers will just chop away anything that touches them before you can't react fast enough my brother was doing a pantograph letters and numbers with one and somebody distracted him, and he sliced a grove right across his finger through everything.@@JackKirbyFan
In big commercial projects all of these (or most) of these methods are the norm. Eg if I was the cut man on a reshoring crew and I was pulling my speed square on every 4x4 or 4x6 post I’d be slowing down the whole operation: Flipping the post while keeping the saw stable is the way to go. Would I recommend that to a DYIer? Nope. It’s all about ur experience level. I have made literally thousands of these cuts as part of my job. Nothing special just time on task. Being a pro vs a DYIer is different. U see gymnasts doing a complicated routine, u don’t go yeah I can do that. But for some reason ppl think they can do what the pros do with no consequences and without putting the time in. Thanks for the vid 🙏
I have done a lot of Flip Rips because I don't have the room in my small, crowded shop. When doing the rip, I take it past the halfway point. And when I stop, before flipping my work over to complete the cut. I always shut the saw OFF. I always use push sticks on my Cabinet Saw. And I always try to stand slightly to the side when pushing work through the blade. I don't use my hands to push the work through the blade ever. If I am using full 4' X 8' sheets and cutting them down to a working size for projects. I always use my Worm Saw to cut the sheets down to size before using the Cabinet Saw for the finish steps of my work. It's easier to do the work making the final cuts on the project wood and it's a lot safer. Oh my, I have seen so many use their foot to cut two by fours or bigger construction lumber. Just making a cut like that, I use one of my work tables. I have 4 Black and Decker tables that I can clamp the wood piece in place. There is no substitute for safety.
It's nice to see that I wasn't the only greenhorn on the job site that thought the older guys were a bit nuts for doing the "boot cut" and several other techiniques shown on this video. That being said, I learned how to do the "boot cut" and all the others because most of the time (read 100% of the time) we didn't have a cushy garage/workshop to work from. I do think that it's great that these videos do bring up a firestorm of comments from the old hands on down. IMHO, if you aren't thinking of how to do every cut safely to the best of your ability you're not being a good carpenter as your quality of work only increases with that thought process.
I’m a retired orthopedic surgeon who also taught high school shop including wood shop prior to starting medical school. They are basically , in many ways, the same job. A very important technique which is never discussed but is a potentially deadly error . I learned this while exiting the Emergency door while leaving the hospital one morning. I encountered a man entering the ER who had just managed to drive himself to the ER after having a table saw accident. I shall attempt to reconstruct the accident in words as I can’t draw pictures. He had a 5 foot length approximately 1 foot wide board with one straight edge. The other edge was angle along the entire length of the board edge opposite the straight edge. He wanted to cut the board so as to have a resultant board with two parallel straight edges but retains the maximum remains width of the board. He measured this width setting by conveniently laying the narrowest width of the tapered board by adjusting the fence with the straight edge of the board against the fence and moving the fence until just the narrowest point of the board just fit adjacent to the innermost side of the saw blade. The mistake was that he flipped the board end over end so as to get a square starting entrance into the wider end of the board. As he cut, the end of the waste side of the board became narrower and narrower until it had a knifelike or, in this case , spear like edge pointing straight back at him. He had no guard except for riving knife and as the heavier end of the waste piece was now over the unsupported out feed side of the table the waste stock caught over the top of the blade driving it into his neck. I later learned , from the vascular surgeon who took him to surgery , that it had miraculously lodged in between the carotid artery and vein without actually severing either of them. The patient supported the length of the piece with his left hand as he somehow got into his own vehicle and drove him into the hospital. That is where I encountered him and learned the story after I asked him how he got this “splinter” 😏? I escorted him into the ER and got a diagonal pliers from maintenance and trimmed it to a more manageable 4 inches. That’s when I could see it pulsating with every beat of his heart . I stayed with him until the vascular surgeon arrived. The lesson I would hope you would convey in a future video is that when cutting a tapered board to have two parallel edges , THAT THE NARROW END OF THE BOARD ENTER THE SAW BLADE FIRST THEREBY ALLOWING THE OPERATOR TO GET STRUCK WITH THE MORE BLUNT END OF THE WASTE STOCK SHOULD IT LAUNCH REARWARD TOWARD THE OPERATOR ! Note that if starting with the wider width first as the waste stock narrows, even with anti kick back dogs in place, the sliver may be too thin for the dog teeth to grasp the spear. It may just enter your abdomen instead of your neck. Again please spread this advice as I gave adhered to this lesson for forty years.
There's another reason for cutting in this orientation, and that's to hold the waste piece as firmly as possible until the cut is completed. This results in a more controlled cut and less chance of kickback.
Or…just don’t ever hang out in the firing line behind the offcut. I don’t want to get hit with EITHER the sharp end or the blunt end of that spear kicking back at 120 miles an hour. Instead of planning which end of the offcut you want to be impaled on, it might be better, easier, and wiser to tell folks to never stand there in the first place, just like you don’t look down the barrel of a loaded gun or put your head in a crocodile’s mouth. You don’t have to be a brain surgeon to figure that out. I would be surprised if the lesson that man came away from that accident with was to make sure he got hit with the dull end of the kick-back stick next time! How about don’t get hit at all?
Something that isn’t mentioned many times is when cutting lumber be careful of the piece breaking of while cutting,very important to check for cracks in the wood,I’ve seen projectiles flying off the table saw when cutting as the wood breaks and the part left between the blade and fence becomes a bullet
Great Video. It does not matter your skill level/experience. Refreshing/learning some safety is never a bad idea. Great instructions for beginner DIYers.
I’ve been doing this long enough that I was taught how to do a “boot cut” in trade school, I still do them. That being said I think you make a lot of good points here for folks new to this. Taking responsibility for your actions, thinking things through all the way, every day, not blaming things because you took a risk or were not paying attention and lost a couple fingers goes a long way. There is a lot of idiot proofing out there that I personally skip, and if it goes wrong I’ll own it like everything else. I also see a lot of straight up Darwin Award stuff as well. Some tradesmen are riding one long wave of good luck and they mistake it for skill.
A Community College instructor for carpentry/forestry showed us his medical slides of his cut foot (from the early 80's) after doing the "Boot Cut." Steel Toes is only thing that saved his toes/foot as the blade lodged into the steel. His other lesson from that slide was to never use a dull/damaged blade (which is why the blade seized and he then "muscled" it into his foot and not the wood). He's probably retired by now but he definitely saw a lot, like you.
I have been a woodworker for many years and know the safe way to make cuts and the other ways, this video is the tip of the iceberg as far as common practices done in industry that aren't safe. For you pros that someone else is paying, if you are doing cuts that aren't safe to go faster ask yourself who will be taking care of you if you cuts yourself or worse. You get to decide but honestly put safety first. Even if you do, you will still leave blood at the job at some point but not body parts like fingers or toes. For pros self employed you are forced to choose how safe you are going to be but as a old guy with damaged hearing, bad back, numbness in tip of thumb, etc., etc., etc., looking back I wish I had used hearing protection and blade gaurds all the time. @peterwhitcomb8315
Thank you, Ethan. That is an excellent discussion. I've seen some of these techniques, and might come up with the ones I haven't seen. Now I understand the safety tradeoffs of each and won't try them blindly.
Thanks for the content, solid as always. I've seen professional finish carpenters on here use circ / miter saws for tasks best served by a jigsaw and scratched my head... like I know they're not starved for tools and what they did was super-sketchy... be smart people!
I'm definitely a beginner..I actually wasn't aware that back cutting on long pieces was considered a no no. I honestly did this method because I noticed with the long pieces..the far end would tend to stray away from the fence no matter the technique I used..even with feather board. After about 3 feet or so I would walk around to side of table saw and grab board on fence side of blade and pull it toward fence and pull it through. I'm not sure if this is backpulling or side pulling. I'm honestly not sure a better way to keep long piece tight against fence
I love you for posting this instead of telling everybody never do it you just give an explanation of how it can go wrong. I have one rule never run the saw. So I do have to get something done so I'm going to break the rule a little bit but never run the saw one time is okay if you were going to run a saw set it all the way up and take it all the way down. If there's anything questionable you're about to do don't do it. If you have to do something questionable for productivity stay right on top of it understand the forces involved. Do it if you have to but find the safest way you can.
Always ask yourself where your fingers are before the cut so you don't have to ask where they are after the cut. I think flip ripping is the only one I've done when it was long rips so i could end my cut halfway. As long as you are very certain you have good fence alignment, i prefer it to a single pass because my hands are ultimately further from the blade. With the table saw i always try to stablize my hand on something like the outside edge of the table or sticking my thumb in the miter slot so i don't make reckless movements in the blade path.
As a carpenter back in the '80's who was often the one called on to cut stair stringers and rafters i had the "OSHA disproved" mod of a setscrew in my blade shroud that i could hook the guard lever over to hold it open. Of course back then i also had a Makita 5007 NBA (W/ electric brake and gold shroud) so it would stop right away instead of coasting to a stop.
Excellent instruction. I would just shake my head at anyone that challenged you. You’re doing your best to keep the DIY workers safe. I appreciate your time and enthusiasm.
I'm building a new house, and the framers were just scary with the things they do. I've seen cutting using feet and knees to support the board. Watching them hold a board with one hand and cut with the other while balancing themselves on rafters was quite a trick as well. Nice guys, and they seemed very skilled, but they were difficult to watch as a retired quality and safety guy.
Yeah that's the thing about safety practices right...they never really matter a lot of the time, especially if you have some practice under your belt. Until suddenly they do.
Superb Video. I am a late starter and have my first table saw which I have used a few times. This video has answered a lot of questions. Thanks George U.K.
My wife is a medical coder who works for a hospital ER department. She told me about a patient who leaned a board against his right thigh while making a cross cut with a circular saw. He cut right into his leg and ended up with a deep 5 inch long laceration. He was very lucky and only required lots and lots of stitches.
With flip ripping your hands may never come within a foot of the blade. I think that pretty much offsets all the issues you mention that others have raised. The bump in the middle often doesn't mater, and mostly just happens in situations where if you ran it through from one side you would have a wobble in the cut somewhere, it just isn't visible.
"don't boot cut" shows video of foot used to clamp board in roughly same position as foot used to hold board up. The nice thing about boot cutting is you're able to keep your foot about half a body stance away from the saw blade while cutting. This works well on a job site
Thanks for the very informative video. Its really helping beginners like me. I see loads if “Don’t come to teach me” comments but I can assure you that you are doing an excellent job. Keep it up buddy.
I usually do flip ripping as I find it actually safer. Especially on longer pieces for stability and narrow rips where I wouldn’t want to use even a push stick between the fence. It also allows twice as long cuts.
Thanks for these mainly reminders of what not to do. Refresher is always helpful. On cutting 4x4 I found it's easier and I get a better cleaner full cut without unclamping the 4x4 by using a fine tooth reciprocating saw.
For as long as I can remember my Dad had a Sears table saw, old school: heavy steel body, belt driven with external motor. I never saw a blade guard on it….so as a kid, I figured that was normal. As an adult I bought my own table saw and thought blade guards were a “more recent” safety feature. Fast forward many years and after Dad passed, my brother and I were going through all of his tools and, at the very back of a drawer of this huge tool chest (he built it) was the blade guard to his saw! Apparently never used. That’s my Dad. BTW he died at a ripe old age with all his fingers. That saw was a keeper; my brother has it….and the blade guard😀
Thanks for the great video. You convinced me that I really need to replace my old slider miter saw (yay!!). Of its many defects, is the need to disable the blade guard when doing bevel cuts, particularly on baseboards. The blade guard works fine with straight or miter cuts, but tilt it over to do bevel cuts and the blade guard just binds and causes bad cuts. So, I have always waited for the blade to stop before raising the blade to hopefully help with safety, AND to stop the blade from wandering on the way up out of the cut. Thanks again.
As a time-served Bench Joiner, we used to flip timber or sheets on the cirrcular saw too. But, we used to turn the blade off before removing the timber. This allowed safe handling of the material and also mean there was no spinning blade to further damage the timber. It takes a few seconds, but it''s better than having 4 and a half fingers!
One thing to mention about older tablesaws like mine. It has a blade guard and splitter but no riving knife. Simply have to remove it for non through cuts. Shark Guard does make an aftermarket splitter but there is no way of adding a riving knife that moves with the blade.
Thank you for the good safety tips. I have violated a few, but not many ( & don't want to try the others). Usually, the safer methods provide a better product at the end of the day.
Some of these, like cutting on my foot and roll cutting, were things i was taught decades ago as an apprentice. They're so ingrained at this point that i wonder if it might be less safe for me to try and remove them from my habits
Ok, so I’m not getting a table saw. I’m retired and now enjoying lots of carpentry type diy jobs round the house. Getting a bit frustrated with hand sawing and considered power saws. Not now. Thanks.
Thanks for this. Discussing what can go wrong, instead of just slapping wrists, is so important, because some people just refuse to learn anything the easy way. Tempting fate really is a sort of immaturity, even while at the same time it is a sort of ingenuity, too. Some people never break the rules, even when they should, while others never take the rules seriously. As a species, we are incredibly bad at risk assessment.
I've been doing the roll post method and it works well but I don't leave the saw on when I roll the post. I leave the blade in the cut but the saw is not running
I have a technique for cutting posts that makes roll cutting look safe and sound. I clam the post on waist hight, pull the blade guard up then plunge cut front facing side, follow to top side and then the tricky part, follow to the far side while standing atop the post and reaching around. It's so brilliant that I can't put it to words.
Great through-provoking video. I think it comes down to what you want from your cuts: speed, accuracy, and safety. And the riskier cuts simply MUST get more of your attention on safety, even if you're experienced doing it. Then sometimes the extra care and strain of that long unsupported ripcut isn't worth it....and it's better to devise an outfeed solution.
lots of good ideas for me to try out on my next project !!! Of the 7 I have only ever done the table saw pull through. But my table saw does not have a clumsy guard nor riveing knife. My knife did not move with the blade. And I hate the awkwardness of cutting while bending over my foot or a small block.
Have a 20 year old Ryobi portable table saw. I find the 2 things with the teeth that stop kick backs actually stop the piece from going thru sometimes.
On my saw they stop the piece essentially *every* time, so I've learnt to pick up the piece a tiny bit when the front end reaches it. But I stay at least twelve inches away from the blade at all times.
I've been an apprentice under my brother for about a year now, he's been doing it for 20+ years. - I didn't know table saws had guards on them aside that knife, but I can see how they'd get in the way. - 100% correct about using a circular saw instead of a miter saw for those long chops. - Flip ripping is an acceptable practice on a small enough piece (say, only about 2 inches wide), but otherwise even a highly experienced master craftsman will prefer having someone to help 10 times out of 10. After having been that second person for so long, I've learned that a second person is the single most valuable tool you have. Don't be a hero, get help when you need it. - Back pulling creates more problems than it solves. - My brother cuts on his foot, has done that his entire career. I've done it myself, always keeping a healthy respect of the saw while doing so. I prefer using a block or a sawhorse if one is available. - Roll cutting... now this is an interesting one because I've done a sort of halfway between roll cutting and doing it "properly." It works out pretty well. Definitely stop your blade before you turn the post, or get a bigger saw if the option is available. - Gravity ripping... I've never heard of this but wow that's a terrible idea. Even before I listened to your whole explanation I knew everything that could go wrong with it and why just on the face of it. Do not gravity rip. If you're in a position where you have no choice but to rip on an uneven surface, make sure you have help to keep your lumber stable.
🤗 THANKS ETHAN …GREAT TIPS FOR SAFETY ..: of course, never being in too big of a hurry… I think it’s worth mentioning, especially if you lacking in skill or tired or distracted. 😅💚💚💚
For the love of god, GUARDS!!! Im a machinist in a shop that employs welders. I walk down into welding, and they have guards AND 90° handles off the grinders. Drives me absolutely insane. The crap people do to save a few seconds drives me crazy. Nearly 20 years in the trade, and I don’t have a single hour of lost time due to injury. I made one mistake at home doing amateur work years ago, and while there was no damage; it hurt like hell. Stop taking stupid chances because you think you can do it.
Any of the high-RPM saws are extremely dangerous. Grinders are the worst of the lot because they can get into an always-on position so that just by plugging them in they start on their own (and whip around or fly around).
Re: Flip ripping: If you turn off the table saw -- especially with a hands-free method like a foot switch -- before doing it, does that account for all reasonable safety considerations? Or is the potential messy cut that you showed also a potential safety hazard in some situation I haven't imagined?
the lack of a guard on table saws terrify me - seen those stop sensors but in Europe we must have them I believe . I guess not confident enough as a DIYer with table saws - great vid and info
I still have all my digits, but admit to doing any of the silly things you can think of at one time or another ! My favourite of these is the wired trigger upside down in the B&D workmate with a jammed open blade cover, circular saw trick. Essential for emergency rips !! My favourite injury ? A friend of mine managed to drill his own kneecap !!
Thanks for showing me a number of processes I would never have thought of to facilitate appendage removal! Loads of 'maybe's' and 'what if's'. The No one pair of rule I use when using ANY sharp tool whether manual or powered is 'keep your eye on the cutting point and don't carry on a conversation whilst doing so'!
We do foot cuts piece vertical so gravity is pushing the direction of the cut makes it cut strieght with almost no effort the benefits are increased the loger the piece is if its 16 ft long it get hard to move around so its nice to be able to cut where it lies
I sometimes have to lift the guard on my circular saw just a smidgen as I start a cut cause it won’t lift with the push of the saw. Is this just a cheap saw feature/problem?
I agree that the blade guard on a table saw is more trouble than it is worth. Too many jigs, sleds, dados etc. But you always have to be mindful to not to reach over a spinning blade to grab a cut piece. Best bet is use an outfield table or roller stand, push it all the way through with some type of push block shut the saw off then walk around the saw and grab the work. I also try to break down sheet goods with a circular saw and guide slightly oversized before final cutting on the table saw. Takes more time but the cuts are safer and in the end more accurate. The riving knife is another story. Unless you are not doing through cuts you need that thing in there almost all the time. Without it the saw can turn cut off pieces into wooden bullets. Finally don’t freehand and never use a miter gauge with your fence as a stop. The cutoff needs space to move away from the blade. That setup can jam the cutoff between the blade and fence and it also come flying back at you.
After 50 years doing my own home improvements (mostly) and hobby things without an accident, I violated my GOLDEN RULE. Never use power tools when I'm tired. I was building a large wooden model boat for my grandson. I cut the pieces in the afternoon. That night I was impatient and wanted to glue it together so I could do more work on it the next day. Gluing curved pieces I needed to nail them together as clamps wouldn't hold the curve and the tapered rows on top of each other. I would glue a piece and then use a brad nailer to hold it. Then repeat the next rows and layers. Being tired, I held a piece while aiming the brad nailer. Before pulling the trigger, I said to myself my finger was going to get nailed if the brad didn't go in straight. AND THEN PULLED THE TRIGGER ANYWAY! The brad did exactly as I thought it would do. Go through the two pieces of wood and into my thumb. I was not working fast, just tired. I gave myself a "fine" by telling my wife. The only stupid thing I do often is not turning on my central vacuum for the first cut after setting it up!!!!! Think safety everyone.
Doing this stuff now for nearly 35 years. No saw injuries to date. Some comments, When I started in construction, the framers removed the guards from the circular saws. I got in the habit of laying it on it's side. Still do today, even though the guard is present. Don't believe in tablesaw guards. I believe it's safer if I can visibly see where the blade is in relation to my fingers. A guard hides that. The R-knife is still attached. My fence is adjusted so there's slightly more room, a 64th, on the fall off side of the blade. Never had a kickback. I've cut lots of 16" super shelf on a 10" Dewalt. I have a custom stand that supports the entire piece. I lift up and make the front cut first, then set it down and finish the cut. No issues. I have seen people do it the other way with a normal non supporting saw stand. once they lift and finish the cut, the piece falls off and they try and catch it with their knee or other hand.
I jam a pencil in the guard if I have to do a one handed cut off a ladder or if I'm cutting at a weird angle and need to use one hand for the trigger and the other for the safety and I can't pull the guard back to get the cut started. I only do this with cordless saws because they don't have enough torque to cause kick back
Thank you for posting this video. I think it is important to explain what might go wrong. I'm sure there are plenty of people who did the boot cut, not realizing that their shoe laces might get caught. Even if they continue boot cutting, at least now they will check their laces. Just telling people not to do something won't work. Explaining why might change minds.
You can cut small pieces as shown on the miter saw 1:49. You need to apply hard clamping force to the piece as you cut. If you go much smaller though, it needs supported across the back.
Hey Ethan, would it be safe to stand to the side of a table saw and push things through that way? Of course I wouldn't get my hands near the blade and would only push toward the outfeed. I've tried it and it seems to work well and put me out of the direction of any potential kickback, but I'm wondering if I've never seen this done for a good reason. Thanks, great vid as usual!
I'm not Ethan, but how much to the side are you talking about? I think you need to be behind the wood you are pushing through to minimize accidentally binding the wood between the blade and fence by not pushing it straight through. That being said, when I am cutting narrower pieces (1x4, 1x6, etc) I still stand on the side of the table saw that I am pushing the wood through, but just a half step to the left so I am not directly behind the wood I'm pushing through. Occasionally, a small rip of wood that you just finish cutting off can fall or be bumped back onto the blade and it shoots out toward you. I've seen shards of wood fly through the air and stick into the wall, that would hit you right in the stomach if you weren't just a little to the left.
Good presentation on exposing the risks. I share a technique that I have used that will really make you gasp. I have used my Makita circular saw to grind down tree stumps and with the blade guard not pinned just incase of a kickback.
I’ve done all these on jobsites and consider them all safe - with the exception of removing the riving knife. No reason anyone needs to do that. I think there’s a “don’t try this at home” element. Doing something everyday creates a level of skill and “second-natureness” to it where it becomes significantly less dangerous. You just have to be aware of what could happen and know what to do.
Even if you’re skilled and experienced enough to use riskier techniques and opt out of safety features, what happens if you lose control of your body for some reason? If you suddenly get ill, have a seizure, lose consciousness, etc. due to an unforeseen medical issue, what stops you from falling onto or into a running blade, or from dropping a circular saw with no guard, for example? What if something falls over and hits you, or a careless coworker bumps into you, or there’s some bad electrical work on site leading to you somehow getting shocked while operating one of these power tools? I always keep the worst case scenario in mind, and as a normally flawed and error-prone human being, I wouldn’t trust myself. 😅 (Genuine question, by the way, not some kind of "gotcha" 😝)
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Testimony: 34 years ago when I was 21, I took the guard off my 10" Miter saw to cut 4 1/4" baseboard. The saw was on the floor, & once when I got up after a cut, my hand swung into the blade as the brake just engaged. Cut between my right thumb & wrist, cut the radial nerve & hit the bone. 22 stitches to close it up. I was lucky, lost no permanent function. I put the guard back on.
Thanks for sharing! Glad it didn’t do any permanent damage chap! 😮
Thank you
A very experienced and otherwise intelligent carpenter I worked with also lost a couple of fingers to a mitre saw whose blade guard had been removed. Most of us are prone to rushing and an accident only takes the slightest instant of distraction.
More reasons not to work on the floor. My father does that crap readily. (Not the blade gaurd but floor cutting)
It's horrible for workflow.
Was your saw not a sliding compound? Our bosch 12" slices any molding I've thrown @ it and the gaurd is never an issue.
@brandonhoffman4712 It was 34 years ago, I'm pretty sure there were no sliding compound miter saws. If there was, I couldn't afford one. I'm 55 now and have refined my work habits.
Ethan, you are one of VERY FEW content makers that actually give safety talks and mean it!! THANK YOU!!!
Earning my OSHA 30 card was one of the best things that could have happened to me, even at 49 years old. Our class sat for an entire semester, learning about all the ways you can die, and all the ways your life can change doing tradeswork--no matter how old you are or how much experience you have. Most folks were bored, but that class changed the way I look at everything. I already knew this life is precious, but it really drove home just how much.
By the way, I'm a North Carolinian, too. If they'd had apprenticeships here, I might have gotten into the field long ago. As it is, you chance learning from people who believe that these techniques are safe. I would have liked to have gotten into this work, but I also feel as if I dodged a bullet.
Thanks for the excellent content!
While working on a bridge construction crew about 40 years ago a young laborer (new hire) tried to do a “knee cut”on a 2x4. He cut his thigh pretty badly when the worm drive saw he was using kicked back. He had previously seen older workers doing knee cuts (I never did). I wound up driving him to the hospital, which was about 30 miles away, quite a few stitches and multiple layers. There was not a lot of emphasis put on job site safety back then, and not just in the carpentry end of construction. I now credit my several years of construction work as a major contributor to my poor hearing now.
This is one thing I do preach to younger carpenters all the time. Don't let old timers try to shame you into being deaf or blind...put on your glasses and your ear plugs.
But don't ask me where the harness is because ain't nobody got time for that or even knows how to put it on. Welcome to hard dollar in Texas baby!
@@jerrellbevers6071I want to yell at these guys who won't use eye and ear protection!
Starting out as a remodeler in the mid '70s, and for it least a decade beyond, I didn't use ear protection. Now I deal with a significant amount of ear ringing. Tinnitus! It's no fun.
I tell the young guys if they want to be able to hear the laughter of their children, and then grandchildren, to wear those earplugs! I keep fresh ones on hand at all times.
I've used the "knee cut" on a few occasions. Afterwards I realize how incredibly stupid it was! I know I used up my odds of going uninjured after getting through it.
@@jerrellbevers6071 Harness? Oh yeah, that’s probably in the tool trailer with the board stretcher…. 😁
@@markgarland9000 Yelling won't do any good. They won't hear you anyway.
I was on a job site where a guy had his blade guard blocked open. He was making a cut up on the roof holding a 2x4 in his hand and bracing against his leg. im not sure if he wasnt paying attention but the saw ran through and hit the front of his leg at the ankle cutting almost the depth of the blade. Not only that but with the force he was using to push through the wood he hit his leg again before he could react. The second hit got through his bone and his foot was barely attached by a small piece of skin. Not only was he badly injured but now he also had to be rescued from the roof. His life changed forever that day. Im 55 now and ive seen three other very serious life altering accidents at work and probably hundreds of "pretty bad" ones. It only takes that one time and theres no going back, no oops, and no do overs... please take safety seriously. When you take risks you put the people you love and who need and depend on you to be whole at risk too. Not to mention even just the pretty bad ones end up with hospital and doctors and follow ups and medications. Often a surgery or two or more. Out of work for days weeks months.. Physical therapy, appointments, care and assistance from your loved ones family or friends. Even if the docs can fix you up like new its not worth it.
😢😢😮😮😮😮 omg. 😱 the few seconds saved is not worth it.
Jesus H. Christ
Keep em coming!
My first thought with power tools in general is "is this a good idea?" I have great respect for any power tool, saws especially because i almost cut off my thumb when I was a kid "helping" my dad. It was decades ago and it was a hand saw but I still vividly remember the pain, the steel scratching my bone, the blood, the tears... Trust me... You do not want to know. I'm 49 and to this day, when I prep to make a cut, the first thing I do is look to make sure my right thumb is safe because i almost cut it off. Play it safe kids... Don't "play" with saws. They're not toys. They're made to remove things and it will hurt really bad and you will regret it for the rest of your life. Play stupid games, win stupid prizes.
Had a similar experience with a chainsaw. I was in high school, guy paid me good money to help him remove some trees.
I had used a chainsaw before, but I got lazy with safety because it was hot out. Was wearing shorts and trying to move quickly through the job. Chainsaw hit my right shin, just above the ankle. I’m lucky to still have my foot, the saw barely missed the bone.
I have to tell you what I like about your channel. It is related to my favorite saying. It goes, the smart man learns from his own mistakes, the wise man learns from others mistakes, and the fool learns from nobody’s mistakes. We are able to get wisdom from your mistakes or actually from your wisdom in seeing other peoples mistakes. By watching your channel, we can avoid a lot of grief and learn how to do things in the correct safe way. Thank you.😊
That’s a great saying Joel! Thank you! 😄
That's a great saying and I had never heard it before.
Thank you thank you thank you!
I am a beginner, working on very small jobs around the house and you have given me the confidence to tackle some basic jobs.
Today I patched a hole in the floor by cutting a board with a low end circular saw that I measured from the blade and guided with a level, measuring with a speed square, and using a drill block to keep my pilot holes straight. There are many more projects around the home that require more skill. I purchased a kreg 520 pro pocket hole jig to get started. This house needs a whole lot of work, thank you for the inspiration and skill sharing!
I've been watching a lot more of these channels to help my nephew learn how to identify and learn on this platform as the age of DIYERS and early tradesman is shifting and i'm coming to love this channel. I still do wood work but mostly only to fabrication as i got older and this is a very good idea to show ppl. I like how you did it and the set up. you're making a very good nuanced point about speed with respect to safety and why "safeties" as we call them are a loathed person on our jobsite but we all know they save our lives simply by their presence and not wanting a fine or write up haha. carpenters scare the hell out of me when we share sites bc your tools are small enough to handle with easee but still lethal potentially. atleast while cutting carbon fiber frames I literally dont have a choice but to be safe and be prepped with PPE and operate a stationary tool. I like how you highli'ght WHY ppl see these incredibly dangerous maneuvers rather than gawk at them. bc you're right. people do them al the time. and while a highly experienced person can be injured, what you don't see is the 30+ years of their understanding of the tool, subtle body position that still allows a mostly safe use case, and other little things a DIYer won't know that still keeps a rushed carpenter as you lot tend to always be safe.
Top safety tips. Thanks for taking the time to share them with the community. I'd say the most important tip to staying in one piece when using power tools has to be taking your time and not rushing. Of course, you make the point that when we are working on site, and up against it, there is always a tendency to take short cuts. That might be an option for experienced professionals, but not for the hobby woodworker, who - often as not - will be working alone in a garage workshop.
The foot support, for me anyway, seemed the most ill advised, although none of the dodgy practices mentioned seem at all necessary.
Also, it goes without saying, but when do we cut the miter/notch/etc etc on the wrong side? When we rush.
90% of my mistakes? Late in the day. Trying to finish something off before I quit.
i'm still really new to woodworking and power tools. but i have a huge respect for that power as well. I've been going with the mindset of being intentional and not forcing something if it isn't going through. I really appreciate the tips and techniques in how to safely use these tools, esp when injury can happen so quickly and suddenly.
Battery tools better , no cords , stops quicker , ,has torque, does the job , little quieter not as dangerous but still need use right skills , , , get brushes, for commercial use , I still prefer to use hand tools , still can cut just be smart 😊
As a 20+ yr wood hobbyist and a 45 yr professional commercial electrical foreman, I applaud your safety focus.
I've seen people injured on jobsites and it's life-altering. I'm happy to say that none of my men ever left the job in an ambulance because I was such an anal S.O.B. about it. Especially because people tend to think that they know how it's gonna go, but don't consider what could possibly happen.
The parallel is the same. You don't know what you don't know.
If you're a hobbyist, and especially new at it, then you don't know. Time is not an issue for you. Keeping your limbs and digits should be.
Be safe out there, gentlemen. Most of us work alone. There might not be anyone to hear your cries over the tool noise. 😮
Well put, Rick! 🙏
So true! The one or two times I’ve been tempted to try a risky cut, all I have to do is remind myself that I live way out in the country and work by myself at least 80% of the time!
Edit: autocorrect mistake🙄
Omg. This sounds really scary.
Way to go, making me feel like a jerk now!
I was originally going to edit my comment to say "ladies and gentlemen", but then I thought "nah, it'll be alright". I see more and more gals are getting into this hobby as is obvious by the replies.
My apologies 😕
@@wilburrrrr742 ha! I didn’t take offense at all! I’m not that girl! 😁
Great video. I learned a few things that I guess I should have known before. I have remodeled homes for decades. Framing is a very small percentage of the work I do. I really like the table saw gravity technique. Looking forward to trying it out sometime. Ha ha.
I can't imagine not flip ripping.
I'm older now and seldom cut off the foot method. Aluminum benches are pretty cheep now and scatter my project sites. However, when I used to do it I used the far foot (for a righty, the left) to hold the board, for better balance stability and distance from the cut. Importantly I would put a tilt on the board which is easy to do with your leg and foot. This allows the the saw to more easily glide down the cut. I have felt this gravity method makes it much easier to control the heavy saw even compared to cutting from a bench.
I am impressed with your you tube and wish I had your knowledge presentation skills. Thank you.
As I get older, man those safety tips become far more critical to my survival :) Very important tips Nate.
Recently I got into making wooden spoons from scrap. The scary parts are using a router table to round the handle and using a flush-trim bit to create multiple copies. Spoons are not large objects and tackling it, even with 20 years+ of experience on a router - I'm still extremely cautious because it just takes one careless move with your fingers and then its' fingers - 1.
Dave...
*Ethan
i returned a small router i bought because it was a death trap you could just easily stick finger on spinning tool while holding it in one hand no guard to cover sides of cutting tool
@@ranger178 IMHO, routers in general are the most dangerous tools a woodworker can use. Granted, grinders are extremely dangerous but I rarely use one. Routers, I can't make any furniture without that terrifying tool.
grinders I use a lot with cut off wheels and wire brushes and such i don't use the crazy chainsaw attachment on them I can bump grinder disks and just get a small abrasion.
but routers will just chop away anything that touches them before you can't react fast enough my brother was doing a pantograph letters and numbers with one and somebody distracted him, and he sliced a grove right across his finger through everything.@@JackKirbyFan
In big commercial projects all of these (or most) of these methods are the norm.
Eg if I was the cut man on a reshoring crew and I was pulling my speed square on every 4x4 or 4x6 post I’d be slowing down the whole operation: Flipping the post while keeping the saw stable is the way to go. Would I recommend that to a DYIer? Nope.
It’s all about ur experience level. I have made literally thousands of these cuts as part of my job. Nothing special just time on task.
Being a pro vs a DYIer is different.
U see gymnasts doing a complicated routine, u don’t go yeah I can do that. But for some reason ppl think they can do what the pros do with no consequences and without putting the time in.
Thanks for the vid 🙏
I have done a lot of Flip Rips because I don't have the room in my small, crowded shop. When doing the rip, I take it past the halfway point. And when I stop, before flipping my work over to complete the cut. I always shut the saw OFF.
I always use push sticks on my Cabinet Saw. And I always try to stand slightly to the side when pushing work through the blade. I don't use my hands to push the work through the blade ever. If I am using full 4' X 8' sheets and cutting them down to a working size for projects. I always use my Worm Saw to cut the sheets down to size before using the Cabinet Saw for the finish steps of my work. It's easier to do the work making the final cuts on the project wood and it's a lot safer.
Oh my, I have seen so many use their foot to cut two by fours or bigger construction lumber. Just making a cut like that, I use one of my work tables. I have 4 Black and Decker tables that I can clamp the wood piece in place. There is no substitute for safety.
As a complete amateur, I found this very informative and hopefully, I'll be more critical of some of the things I see done on TH-cam. Thank you.
It's nice to see that I wasn't the only greenhorn on the job site that thought the older guys were a bit nuts for doing the "boot cut" and several other techiniques shown on this video. That being said, I learned how to do the "boot cut" and all the others because most of the time (read 100% of the time) we didn't have a cushy garage/workshop to work from. I do think that it's great that these videos do bring up a firestorm of comments from the old hands on down. IMHO, if you aren't thinking of how to do every cut safely to the best of your ability you're not being a good carpenter as your quality of work only increases with that thought process.
I’m a retired orthopedic surgeon who also taught high school shop including wood shop prior to starting medical school.
They are basically , in many ways, the same job.
A very important technique which is never discussed but is a potentially deadly error .
I learned this while exiting the Emergency door while leaving the hospital one morning.
I encountered a man entering the ER who had just managed to drive himself to the ER after having a table saw accident.
I shall attempt to reconstruct the accident in words as I can’t draw pictures.
He had a 5 foot length approximately 1 foot wide board with one straight edge.
The other edge was angle along the entire length of the board edge opposite the straight edge.
He wanted to cut the board so as to have a resultant board with two parallel straight edges but retains the maximum remains width of the board.
He measured this width setting by conveniently laying the narrowest width of the tapered board by adjusting the fence with the straight edge of the board against the fence and moving the fence until just the narrowest point of the board just fit adjacent to the innermost side of the saw blade.
The mistake was that he flipped the board end over end so as to get a square starting entrance into the wider end of the board.
As he cut, the end of the waste side of the board became narrower and narrower until it had a knifelike or, in this case , spear like edge pointing straight back at him.
He had no guard except for riving knife and as the heavier end of the waste piece was now over the unsupported out feed side of the table the waste stock caught over the top of the blade driving it into his neck.
I later learned , from the vascular surgeon who took him to surgery , that it had miraculously lodged in between the carotid artery and vein without actually severing either of them.
The patient supported the length of the piece with his left hand as he somehow got into his own vehicle and drove him into the hospital.
That is where I encountered him and learned the story after I asked him how he got this “splinter” 😏?
I escorted him into the ER and got a diagonal pliers from maintenance and trimmed it to a more manageable 4 inches. That’s when I could see it pulsating with every beat of his heart . I stayed with him until the vascular surgeon arrived.
The lesson I would hope you would convey in a future video is that when cutting a tapered board to have two parallel edges , THAT THE NARROW END OF THE BOARD ENTER THE SAW BLADE FIRST THEREBY ALLOWING THE OPERATOR TO GET STRUCK WITH THE MORE BLUNT END OF THE WASTE STOCK SHOULD IT LAUNCH REARWARD TOWARD THE OPERATOR !
Note that if starting with the wider width first as the waste stock narrows, even with anti kick back dogs in place, the sliver may be too thin for the dog teeth to grasp the spear. It may just enter your abdomen instead of your neck.
Again please spread this advice as I gave adhered to this lesson for forty years.
EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION! I can almost 'see' it. Scary.
There's another reason for cutting in this orientation, and that's to hold the waste piece as firmly as possible until the cut is completed. This results in a more controlled cut and less chance of kickback.
Or…just don’t ever hang out in the firing line behind the offcut. I don’t want to get hit with EITHER the sharp end or the blunt end of that spear kicking back at 120 miles an hour. Instead of planning which end of the offcut you want to be impaled on, it might be better, easier, and wiser to tell folks to never stand there in the first place, just like you don’t look down the barrel of a loaded gun or put your head in a crocodile’s mouth. You don’t have to be a brain surgeon to figure that out. I would be surprised if the lesson that man came away from that accident with was to make sure he got hit with the dull end of the kick-back stick next time! How about don’t get hit at all?
Good job describing and thank God for that shot placement! I'll remember this. Thank you.
Great tip!
Something that isn’t mentioned many times is when cutting lumber be careful of the piece breaking of while cutting,very important to check for cracks in the wood,I’ve seen projectiles flying off the table saw when cutting as the wood breaks and the part left between the blade and fence becomes a bullet
Great Video. It does not matter your skill level/experience. Refreshing/learning some safety is never a bad idea. Great instructions for beginner DIYers.
Thanks for having the guts to create and post this video. Crucial information. 👍🇺🇸
These safety videos are so valuable. Love them.
I’ve been doing this long enough that I was taught how to do a “boot cut” in trade school, I still do them. That being said I think you make a lot of good points here for folks new to this. Taking responsibility for your actions, thinking things through all the way, every day, not blaming things because you took a risk or were not paying attention and lost a couple fingers goes a long way. There is a lot of idiot proofing out there that I personally skip, and if it goes wrong I’ll own it like everything else. I also see a lot of straight up Darwin Award stuff as well. Some tradesmen are riding one long wave of good luck and they mistake it for skill.
A Community College instructor for carpentry/forestry showed us his medical slides of his cut foot (from the early 80's) after doing the "Boot Cut." Steel Toes is only thing that saved his toes/foot as the blade lodged into the steel. His other lesson from that slide was to never use a dull/damaged blade (which is why the blade seized and he then "muscled" it into his foot and not the wood). He's probably retired by now but he definitely saw a lot, like you.
I have been a woodworker for many years and know the safe way to make cuts and the other ways, this video is the tip of the iceberg as far as common practices done in industry that aren't safe. For you pros that someone else is paying, if you are doing cuts that aren't safe to go faster ask yourself who will be taking care of you if you cuts yourself or worse. You get to decide but honestly put safety first. Even if you do, you will still leave blood at the job at some point but not body parts like fingers or toes.
For pros self employed you are forced to choose how safe you are going to be but as a old guy with damaged hearing, bad back, numbness in tip of thumb, etc., etc., etc., looking back I wish I had used hearing protection and blade gaurds all the time. @peterwhitcomb8315
Thank you, Ethan. That is an excellent discussion. I've seen some of these techniques, and might come up with the ones I haven't seen. Now I understand the safety tradeoffs of each and won't try them blindly.
Thank you for a great video. I am fairly "green" with table saws but, I have seen the instant damage they can do when bad judgement comes into play.
Thanks for the content, solid as always. I've seen professional finish carpenters on here use circ / miter saws for tasks best served by a jigsaw and scratched my head... like I know they're not starved for tools and what they did was super-sketchy... be smart people!
Sometimes you see people on YT and you know they've never done it for a living.
I'm definitely a beginner..I actually wasn't aware that back cutting on long pieces was considered a no no. I honestly did this method because I noticed with the long pieces..the far end would tend to stray away from the fence no matter the technique I used..even with feather board. After about 3 feet or so I would walk around to side of table saw and grab board on fence side of blade and pull it toward fence and pull it through. I'm not sure if this is backpulling or side pulling. I'm honestly not sure a better way to keep long piece tight against fence
I love you for posting this instead of telling everybody never do it you just give an explanation of how it can go wrong. I have one rule never run the saw. So I do have to get something done so I'm going to break the rule a little bit but never run the saw one time is okay if you were going to run a saw set it all the way up and take it all the way down. If there's anything questionable you're about to do don't do it. If you have to do something questionable for productivity stay right on top of it understand the forces involved. Do it if you have to but find the safest way you can.
Great video. Good explanations of things that i shouldn’t do but sometimes do. Now that I’m older I don’t try them anymore. Thanks Ethan
Thanks for showing that post rolling thing...That's a good idea.
Always ask yourself where your fingers are before the cut so you don't have to ask where they are after the cut.
I think flip ripping is the only one I've done when it was long rips so i could end my cut halfway. As long as you are very certain you have good fence alignment, i prefer it to a single pass because my hands are ultimately further from the blade.
With the table saw i always try to stablize my hand on something like the outside edge of the table or sticking my thumb in the miter slot so i don't make reckless movements in the blade path.
Well done. I agree that ignoring the topics or saying, "just never do it" us unhelpful. Real discussion is important.
As a carpenter back in the '80's who was often the one called on to cut stair stringers and rafters i had the "OSHA disproved" mod of a setscrew in my blade shroud that i could hook the guard lever over to hold it open.
Of course back then i also had a Makita 5007 NBA (W/ electric brake and gold shroud) so it would stop right away instead of coasting to a stop.
Thanks from Germany. Your tips are internationally controversal but even more appreciated.
Excellent instruction. I would just shake my head at anyone that challenged you. You’re doing your best to keep the DIY workers safe. I appreciate your time and enthusiasm.
I'm building a new house, and the framers were just scary with the things they do. I've seen cutting using feet and knees to support the board. Watching them hold a board with one hand and cut with the other while balancing themselves on rafters was quite a trick as well. Nice guys, and they seemed very skilled, but they were difficult to watch as a retired quality and safety guy.
I see that and cringe...yeah, they may not be operating safely, but they're almost certainly not getting an accurate cut, either.
Always cut on foot
Yeah that's the thing about safety practices right...they never really matter a lot of the time, especially if you have some practice under your belt. Until suddenly they do.
Superb Video. I am a late starter and have my first table saw which I have used a few times. This video has answered a lot of questions. Thanks George U.K.
My wife is a medical coder who works for a hospital ER department. She told me about a patient who leaned a board against his right thigh while making a cross cut with a circular saw. He cut right into his leg and ended up with a deep 5 inch long laceration. He was very lucky and only required lots and lots of stitches.
🤦♂️😪😪
Apparently some people are still doing the same stupid things I saw 40 years ago…
With flip ripping your hands may never come within a foot of the blade. I think that pretty much offsets all the issues you mention that others have raised. The bump in the middle often doesn't mater, and mostly just happens in situations where if you ran it through from one side you would have a wobble in the cut somewhere, it just isn't visible.
"don't boot cut" shows video of foot used to clamp board in roughly same position as foot used to hold board up. The nice thing about boot cutting is you're able to keep your foot about half a body stance away from the saw blade while cutting. This works well on a job site
True! Even "keeping to all the rules" can be hazardous!!
Thanks for the very informative video. Its really helping beginners like me. I see loads if “Don’t come to teach me” comments but I can assure you that you are doing an excellent job. Keep it up buddy.
I usually do flip ripping as I find it actually safer. Especially on longer pieces for stability and narrow rips where I wouldn’t want to use even a push stick between the fence. It also allows twice as long cuts.
I turn the saw off while flipping the board.
Please what kind of respirator are you using ?
It’s called a base camp, Martin! Very comfy, and several charcoal filters on it. You can get them on Amazon. 🙂
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thanks!
Thanks for these mainly reminders of what not to do. Refresher is always helpful.
On cutting 4x4 I found it's easier and I get a better cleaner full cut without unclamping the 4x4 by using a fine tooth reciprocating saw.
Thanks again for making your channel ..... it's been a HUGE delight and educational being subbed all these years
For as long as I can remember my Dad had a Sears table saw, old school: heavy steel body, belt driven with external motor. I never saw a blade guard on it….so as a kid, I figured that was normal. As an adult I bought my own table saw and thought blade guards were a “more recent” safety feature. Fast forward many years and after Dad passed, my brother and I were going through all of his tools and, at the very back of a drawer of this
huge tool chest (he built it) was the blade guard to his saw! Apparently never used. That’s my Dad. BTW he died at a ripe old age with all his fingers. That saw was a keeper; my brother has it….and the blade guard😀
A reminder to always read the manual and research what features a product has that you might never have used.
Table saw blade guard: Microjig Gripper. Great explanations of those problematic cutting methods.
Thanks for the great video. You convinced me that I really need to replace my old slider miter saw (yay!!). Of its many defects, is the need to disable the blade guard when doing bevel cuts, particularly on baseboards. The blade guard works fine with straight or miter cuts, but tilt it over to do bevel cuts and the blade guard just binds and causes bad cuts. So, I have always waited for the blade to stop before raising the blade to hopefully help with safety, AND to stop the blade from wandering on the way up out of the cut. Thanks again.
As a time-served Bench Joiner, we used to flip timber or sheets on the cirrcular saw too. But, we used to turn the blade off before removing the timber. This allowed safe handling of the material and also mean there was no spinning blade to further damage the timber. It takes a few seconds, but it''s better than having 4 and a half fingers!
One thing to mention about older tablesaws like mine. It has a blade guard and splitter but no riving knife. Simply have to remove it for non through cuts. Shark Guard does make an aftermarket splitter but there is no way of adding a riving knife that moves with the blade.
I really appreciate these kinds of videos. Knowledge is king.
Thank you for the good safety tips. I have violated a few, but not many ( & don't want to try the others). Usually, the safer methods provide a better product at the end of the day.
Some of these, like cutting on my foot and roll cutting, were things i was taught decades ago as an apprentice. They're so ingrained at this point that i wonder if it might be less safe for me to try and remove them from my habits
Ok, so I’m not getting a table saw. I’m retired and now enjoying lots of carpentry type diy jobs round the house.
Getting a bit frustrated with hand sawing and considered power saws. Not now. Thanks.
Thanks for this. Discussing what can go wrong, instead of just slapping wrists, is so important, because some people just refuse to learn anything the easy way. Tempting fate really is a sort of immaturity, even while at the same time it is a sort of ingenuity, too. Some people never break the rules, even when they should, while others never take the rules seriously. As a species, we are incredibly bad at risk assessment.
I've been doing the roll post method and it works well but I don't leave the saw on when I roll the post. I leave the blade in the cut but the saw is not running
I have a technique for cutting posts that makes roll cutting look safe and sound. I clam the post on waist hight, pull the blade guard up then plunge cut front facing side, follow to top side and then the tricky part, follow to the far side while standing atop the post and reaching around. It's so brilliant that I can't put it to words.
Thank you for taking the time to explain everything. You may have already saved someone.
Great through-provoking video. I think it comes down to what you want from your cuts: speed, accuracy, and safety. And the riskier cuts simply MUST get more of your attention on safety, even if you're experienced doing it.
Then sometimes the extra care and strain of that long unsupported ripcut isn't worth it....and it's better to devise an outfeed solution.
Yes to "outfeed solution".
Nicely done! No BS here, just factual, real-world stuff.
lots of good ideas for me to try out on my next project !!! Of the 7 I have only ever done the table saw pull through. But my table saw does not have a clumsy guard nor riveing knife. My knife did not move with the blade. And I hate the awkwardness of cutting while bending over my foot or a small block.
Really appreciate your discussion on tips that I heard about but thought only seasoned Pros really used. 👷🏿♂️
Thanks W! I know that newcomers are tempted by a lot of these…I like them to be informed 😄
Great video. I see so many on YT channels doing things that are absolutely absurd and I'm surprised they even have their hands still.
Thanks B! I try to only show safe methods on my channel, but just had to discuss some of these 🙂
Awesome. Thanks for the new tricks. I started in 1980, some of those are new to me.
Always a worthwhile video , any time safety is focus
He is the best. You always learn from his videos. Thanks buddy.
That's is crazy placing the wood on the foot. 😢 this is a serious an dangerous tool. Thank you so much for this information.
Have a 20 year old Ryobi portable table saw. I find the 2 things with the teeth that stop kick backs actually stop the piece from going thru sometimes.
On my saw they stop the piece essentially *every* time, so I've learnt to pick up the piece a tiny bit when the front end reaches it. But I stay at least twelve inches away from the blade at all times.
I've been an apprentice under my brother for about a year now, he's been doing it for 20+ years.
- I didn't know table saws had guards on them aside that knife, but I can see how they'd get in the way.
- 100% correct about using a circular saw instead of a miter saw for those long chops.
- Flip ripping is an acceptable practice on a small enough piece (say, only about 2 inches wide), but otherwise even a highly experienced master craftsman will prefer having someone to help 10 times out of 10. After having been that second person for so long, I've learned that a second person is the single most valuable tool you have. Don't be a hero, get help when you need it.
- Back pulling creates more problems than it solves.
- My brother cuts on his foot, has done that his entire career. I've done it myself, always keeping a healthy respect of the saw while doing so. I prefer using a block or a sawhorse if one is available.
- Roll cutting... now this is an interesting one because I've done a sort of halfway between roll cutting and doing it "properly." It works out pretty well. Definitely stop your blade before you turn the post, or get a bigger saw if the option is available.
- Gravity ripping... I've never heard of this but wow that's a terrible idea. Even before I listened to your whole explanation I knew everything that could go wrong with it and why just on the face of it. Do not gravity rip. If you're in a position where you have no choice but to rip on an uneven surface, make sure you have help to keep your lumber stable.
What about opening the guard on hand circular saw with my left hand while cutting? I sometimes do it, because I can see better where the cut is made.
I know @ 8:24 is just an example but it does show how important the writhing knife is to safety since it can help prevent kickback
🤗 THANKS ETHAN …GREAT TIPS FOR SAFETY ..: of course, never being in too big of a hurry… I think it’s worth mentioning, especially if you lacking in skill or tired or distracted. 😅💚💚💚
Good point, Budget! Hurrying is probably the worst mistake pros make…and they do it all the time. I know I certainly did! 😅
For the love of god, GUARDS!!! Im a machinist in a shop that employs welders. I walk down into welding, and they have guards AND 90° handles off the grinders. Drives me absolutely insane. The crap people do to save a few seconds drives me crazy. Nearly 20 years in the trade, and I don’t have a single hour of lost time due to injury.
I made one mistake at home doing amateur work years ago, and while there was no damage; it hurt like hell. Stop taking stupid chances because you think you can do it.
Any of the high-RPM saws are extremely dangerous. Grinders are the worst of the lot because they can get into an always-on position so that just by plugging them in they start on their own (and whip around or fly around).
Re: Flip ripping: If you turn off the table saw -- especially with a hands-free method like a foot switch -- before doing it, does that account for all reasonable safety considerations? Or is the potential messy cut that you showed also a potential safety hazard in some situation I haven't imagined?
the lack of a guard on table saws terrify me - seen those stop sensors but in Europe we must have them I believe . I guess not confident enough as a DIYer with table saws - great vid and info
Clear explanations, clear demonstrations. We subscribed.
I still have all my digits, but admit to doing any of the silly things you can think of at one time or another !
My favourite of these is the wired trigger upside down in the B&D workmate with a jammed open blade cover, circular saw trick. Essential for emergency rips !!
My favourite injury ? A friend of mine managed to drill his own kneecap !!
Thanks for showing me a number of processes I would never have thought of to facilitate appendage removal! Loads of 'maybe's' and 'what if's'. The No one pair of rule I use when using ANY sharp tool whether manual or powered is 'keep your eye on the cutting point and don't carry on a conversation whilst doing so'!
Didn't he say to watch the FENCE, and not the cutting point?
brilliant - honest -- useful : you are saving fingers❤ much respect
We do foot cuts piece vertical so gravity is pushing the direction of the cut makes it cut strieght with almost no effort the benefits are increased the loger the piece is if its 16 ft long it get hard to move around so its nice to be able to cut where it lies
you brought up "techniques, I would NEVER think of attempting
Thanks for showing me these helpful tricks to make my tasks easier and quicker n
I liked that gravity assisted cutting and also the trick of turning a 4x4 iteratively: those are not dangerous and look to be working well.
Thanks for sharing safety, and yes short cuts work until you get hurt, again thanks for sharing safety and knowledge!
I sometimes have to lift the guard on my circular saw just a smidgen as I start a cut cause it won’t lift with the push of the saw. Is this just a cheap saw feature/problem?
Nope, that’s fine, art. I did a whole video on why and when it’s necessary. They all do it in some applications.
Years ago i was ripping a 2x4 and the skill saw jam and jump forward and i cut off my ring finger
😖😖
I agree that the blade guard on a table saw is more trouble than it is worth. Too many jigs, sleds, dados etc. But you always have to be mindful to not to reach over a spinning blade to grab a cut piece. Best bet is use an outfield table or roller stand, push it all the way through with some type of push block shut the saw off then walk around the saw and grab the work. I also try to break down sheet goods with a circular saw and guide slightly oversized before final cutting on the table saw. Takes more time but the cuts are safer and in the end more accurate. The riving knife is another story. Unless you are not doing through cuts you need that thing in there almost all the time. Without it the saw can turn cut off pieces into wooden bullets. Finally don’t freehand and never use a miter gauge with your fence as a stop. The cutoff needs space to move away from the blade. That setup can jam the cutoff between the blade and fence and it also come flying back at you.
After 50 years doing my own home improvements (mostly) and hobby things without an accident, I violated my GOLDEN RULE. Never use power tools when I'm tired. I was building a large wooden model boat for my grandson. I cut the pieces in the afternoon. That night I was impatient and wanted to glue it together so I could do more work on it the next day. Gluing curved pieces I needed to nail them together as clamps wouldn't hold the curve and the tapered rows on top of each other. I would glue a piece and then use a brad nailer to hold it. Then repeat the next rows and layers. Being tired, I held a piece while aiming the brad nailer. Before pulling the trigger, I said to myself my finger was going to get nailed if the brad didn't go in straight. AND THEN PULLED THE TRIGGER ANYWAY! The brad did exactly as I thought it would do. Go through the two pieces of wood and into my thumb. I was not working fast, just tired. I gave myself a "fine" by telling my wife. The only stupid thing I do often is not turning on my central vacuum for the first cut after setting it up!!!!! Think safety everyone.
Doing this stuff now for nearly 35 years. No saw injuries to date. Some comments,
When I started in construction, the framers removed the guards from the circular saws. I got in the habit of laying it on it's side. Still do today, even though the guard is present.
Don't believe in tablesaw guards. I believe it's safer if I can visibly see where the blade is in relation to my fingers. A guard hides that. The R-knife is still attached. My fence is adjusted so there's slightly more room, a 64th, on the fall off side of the blade. Never had a kickback.
I've cut lots of 16" super shelf on a 10" Dewalt. I have a custom stand that supports the entire piece. I lift up and make the front cut first, then set it down and finish the cut. No issues. I have seen people do it the other way with a normal non supporting saw stand. once they lift and finish the cut, the piece falls off and they try and catch it with their knee or other hand.
I jam a pencil in the guard if I have to do a one handed cut off a ladder or if I'm cutting at a weird angle and need to use one hand for the trigger and the other for the safety and I can't pull the guard back to get the cut started. I only do this with cordless saws because they don't have enough torque to cause kick back
Thank you for posting this video. I think it is important to explain what might go wrong. I'm sure there are plenty of people who did the boot cut, not realizing that their shoe laces might get caught. Even if they continue boot cutting, at least now they will check their laces.
Just telling people not to do something won't work. Explaining why might change minds.
You can cut small pieces as shown on the miter saw 1:49. You need to apply hard clamping force to the piece as you cut.
If you go much smaller though, it needs supported across the back.
Hey Ethan, would it be safe to stand to the side of a table saw and push things through that way? Of course I wouldn't get my hands near the blade and would only push toward the outfeed. I've tried it and it seems to work well and put me out of the direction of any potential kickback, but I'm wondering if I've never seen this done for a good reason.
Thanks, great vid as usual!
I'm not Ethan, but how much to the side are you talking about? I think you need to be behind the wood you are pushing through to minimize accidentally binding the wood between the blade and fence by not pushing it straight through. That being said, when I am cutting narrower pieces (1x4, 1x6, etc) I still stand on the side of the table saw that I am pushing the wood through, but just a half step to the left so I am not directly behind the wood I'm pushing through. Occasionally, a small rip of wood that you just finish cutting off can fall or be bumped back onto the blade and it shoots out toward you. I've seen shards of wood fly through the air and stick into the wall, that would hit you right in the stomach if you weren't just a little to the left.
Good presentation on exposing the risks. I share a technique that I have used that will really make you gasp. I have used my Makita circular saw to grind down tree stumps and with the blade guard not pinned just incase of a kickback.
Great video and explanation. Stay safe!
Thank you, Paul! 😄
Hey Ethan do you still have your online course running? I’m interested in checking it out if it’s still up. Thanks!
I’ve done all these on jobsites and consider them all safe - with the exception of removing the riving knife. No reason anyone needs to do that.
I think there’s a “don’t try this at home” element. Doing something everyday creates a level of skill and “second-natureness” to it where it becomes significantly less dangerous. You just have to be aware of what could happen and know what to do.
Even if you’re skilled and experienced enough to use riskier techniques and opt out of safety features, what happens if you lose control of your body for some reason?
If you suddenly get ill, have a seizure, lose consciousness, etc. due to an unforeseen medical issue, what stops you from falling onto or into a running blade, or from dropping a circular saw with no guard, for example?
What if something falls over and hits you, or a careless coworker bumps into you, or there’s some bad electrical work on site leading to you somehow getting shocked while operating one of these power tools?
I always keep the worst case scenario in mind, and as a normally flawed and error-prone human being, I wouldn’t trust myself. 😅
(Genuine question, by the way, not some kind of "gotcha" 😝)