How to make a cheap acme threading insert. I use a lot of 1/4" carbide end mills, so when they get dull, I hate to throw them away. By using a piece of 3/4" case hardened shafting material, Boring & threading the end to 1/2-20 , inserting a 1/2" fine thread bolt into the end, drilling & reaming in the lathe, 1/4" through the 1/2" bolt (so I can remove a broken piece of carbide), drilling & tapping a set screw into the head of the 1/2" bolt, (to tighten the carbide), then making an ACME bit, using the 1/4" carbide, I can install the round bit into the bolt in the shafting, rotate it so it is flat on top, and install into a v-notched aloris tool holder, I can make an excellent ACME thread. The X & Y axis leadscrews are easy metal to machine, so that is how I repaired the threads on the ACME leadscrews mentioned below.
Glad to see how they come apart. My old machine just broke on the Y. Movement bound up and something broke. Gotta take apart. Heard something fall inside.
Hi Barry. Just a tip that I used on my Bridgeport X & Y Leadscrews. While trying to adjust my old nuts/leadscrews, I found that no matter how I adjusted them, the travel would always get tight away from center section. Since I bought both Mills used from a production shop, I assumed the problem was wear on the dovetails. I also assumed the leadscrew would not have much wear, because brass against steel should minimize wear on the steel part. Both nuts had significant wear, so I decided to replace them. After installing them, I found the same issue, so I purchased a new X Leadscrew from you. This fixed the X axis. Since I had never taken one apart before, I had an idea(wrong) to use & modify the end of the used X leadscrew for the Y. Didn't work (left hand VS right hand) but I learned something. since I didn't buy the Y leadscrew, & my Bridgeport had the dual Nuts, I went to my lathe, chucked up the Y lead screw, and using the ACME thread tool, I carefully cleaned and removed enough of the existing threads on both sides of the leadscrew threads to make all threads a uniform width. The new brass nuts gave me plenty of adjustment, so I proceeded to upgrade my other Bridgeport, modifying both the X & Y leadscrews. I used a follower rest on the X, and removed just enough of the sides of the ACME threads to make all threads uniform. Again, both leadscrews worked very well. The new shaft made the travel away from center much better also. I think my lathe is pretty accurate, but since I am using DROs the accuracy of the leadscrew is less important. After modifying the X & Y leadscrews, there was a world of improvement. The leadscrews were worn so much in the middle, the new nuts could not be adjusted very well. One more note, I still have a bit of tightness on the ends of travel, but that is the wear of the dovetails. Someday, I will justify getting them redone but for my home hobby shop, it is hard to justify.
Thanks for the video, I'm a "new Bridgeport guy." I'm an engineer, bought a REALLY nice machine over a year ago from a school. X & Y readout. Havne't had time to turn it on. It is only in my shop for convenience, still plan on sending out most work. WELL... this week is the "convenience week" so I spent a few days getting it going and learning. I MIGHT be doing some work on it soon, enjoyed the video my friend. No fluff, right to the point. AS FOR THE SCREW: Many times in difficult situations, I will use electrical tape to hold it to the screw driver to reach in and get it started, then pull out the driver, and go back in and grab the tape with something. If its NOT a slotted, philips or hex... a big clump of grease holds it in. (You guys probably know those tricks.) but straight driver is a B...h.
Been waiting for this , thanx Barry! Slotted screws? In 2021? I'll be using a socket screw for the lock screw. Slots get buggered up because screwdrivers get use as chisels , prybars , etc.
@@HWMachRepair Finally got around to doing our second machine with your nice kit. Re-watched your excellent tutorial again to refresh my old, sieve-like memory. And again, I made a pair of 'heads' for SHCS. I made a simple thick washer, 11/16 dia x 5/16 thick and tapped a 5/16-18 thru the center. Same size as the head of the original screw. I have one of those screw-holders, but again, the slots were too buggered up to use it. Went in nice and easy using a 1/4 hex bit on a 12" extension. Didn't drop either one!
Use a large screwdriver that fits the screw slot well. Clean the screwdriver and the slot with Acetone and stick them together with super glue. Break glue joint by twisting to remove the screwdriver. I haven’t tried this but it should work.
Just replaced both nuts on my 1970s era mill. The disassembly had a snag, I did all the steps in order but the lead screw would not come out. After sliding the table nearly off the ways I was able to see that there was a set screw drilled and tapped into the housing and into the nut. Not sure if this was factor but it was a pain.
Have you ever considered using a short piece of a lead screw about 10" long to use when replacing that key? I was thinking it would help support the walls of the nut when driving the pin, and it would also give you something to tap on when trying to remove the nut after the key was pinned. It would also free up the hand that you hold the punch with so that you could catch the nut before it falls to the ground. I know that many people don't like driving on a threaded object in that manner, but I myself haven't really had any problems doing that as long as I use my brain to evaluate how much force is too much for whatever I'm working on.
When you used the channel locks to take the nut off, was there a specific reason you used the pliers backwards? Im about to be pulling my mill down and im trying to gather all the knowledge/tricks of the trade as i can.
I know Barry already emailed you back, but I wanted to put this here for anyone else who had the same question: Millports are somewhat hit or miss when it comes to direct replacements. The first thing you will want to check is if your feed nut retaining screw is metric or imperial. If it is imperial then most likely it will all work for you. If it is metric then no. We can still get the nuts for the metric Millport mills so if you find it is metric give us a call at 800-285-5271 and we can get you pricing and current availability for the nuts.
good evening I'm Valter from Napoli Italy I've been following your great movies for several years. I would like to ask you why my bridgeporto when I turn the hand lever for horizontal advancement of the large board is on the right that the left end of the stroke becomes very heavy? How can I solve this problem ? thank you Greetings Valter
since i'm removing the table anyway i just unscrew the x & y axis lead screw then remove the table then I can remove & work on the yoke way easier install the brass nuts install the yoke then table then put the handle back on the x screw wind it in and I dont need a long screwdriver agues thats ok ? my machine is a round ram built in 1954
I just got this rebuild kit and two new lead screws from you fine people today. I bought from you based on the quality of your youtube channel.
Great info for us to use keep the great videos. Have a couple of machines we are going to go thru😊
How to make a cheap acme threading insert. I use a lot of 1/4" carbide end mills, so when they get dull, I hate to throw them away. By using a piece of 3/4" case hardened shafting material, Boring & threading the end to 1/2-20 , inserting a 1/2" fine thread bolt into the end, drilling & reaming in the lathe, 1/4" through the 1/2" bolt (so I can remove a broken piece of carbide), drilling & tapping a set screw into the head of the 1/2" bolt, (to tighten the carbide), then making an ACME bit, using the 1/4" carbide, I can install the round bit into the bolt in the shafting, rotate it so it is flat on top, and install into a v-notched aloris tool holder, I can make an excellent ACME thread. The X & Y axis leadscrews are easy metal to machine, so that is how I repaired the threads on the ACME leadscrews mentioned below.
Glad to see how they come apart.
My old machine just broke on the Y. Movement bound up and something broke. Gotta take apart. Heard something fall inside.
Awesome work with these tutorials. I am awaiting my first mill, and these video's are just what the doctor ordered!
I absolutely love this channel. You guys always seem to make a video about things that I need to do to my machine.
Thank you! Let us know if you need us to do a video on something. We are always adding to our video suggestion list.
Hi Barry. Just a tip that I used on my Bridgeport X & Y Leadscrews. While trying to adjust my old nuts/leadscrews, I found that no matter how I adjusted them, the travel would always get tight away from center section. Since I bought both Mills used from a production shop, I assumed the problem was wear on the dovetails. I also assumed the leadscrew would not have much wear, because brass against steel should minimize wear on the steel part. Both nuts had significant wear, so I decided to replace them. After installing them, I found the same issue, so I purchased a new X Leadscrew from you. This fixed the X axis. Since I had never taken one apart before, I had an idea(wrong) to use & modify the end of the used X leadscrew for the Y. Didn't work (left hand VS right hand) but I learned something. since I didn't buy the Y leadscrew, & my Bridgeport had the dual Nuts, I went to my lathe, chucked up the Y lead screw, and using the ACME thread tool, I carefully cleaned and removed enough of the existing threads on both sides of the leadscrew threads to make all threads a uniform width. The new brass nuts gave me plenty of adjustment, so I proceeded to upgrade my other Bridgeport, modifying both the X & Y leadscrews. I used a follower rest on the X, and removed just enough of the sides of the ACME threads to make all threads uniform. Again, both leadscrews worked very well. The new shaft made the travel away from center much better also. I think my lathe is pretty accurate, but since I am using DROs the accuracy of the leadscrew is less important. After modifying the X & Y leadscrews, there was a world of improvement. The leadscrews were worn so much in the middle, the new nuts could not be adjusted very well. One more note, I still have a bit of tightness on the ends of travel, but that is the wear of the dovetails. Someday, I will justify getting them redone but for my home hobby shop, it is hard to justify.
Thanks for the video, I'm a "new Bridgeport guy." I'm an engineer, bought a REALLY nice machine over a year ago from a school. X & Y readout. Havne't had time to turn it on. It is only in my shop for convenience, still plan on sending out most work. WELL... this week is the "convenience week" so I spent a few days getting it going and learning. I MIGHT be doing some work on it soon, enjoyed the video my friend. No fluff, right to the point. AS FOR THE SCREW: Many times in difficult situations, I will use electrical tape to hold it to the screw driver to reach in and get it started, then pull out the driver, and go back in and grab the tape with something. If its NOT a slotted, philips or hex... a big clump of grease holds it in. (You guys probably know those tricks.) but straight driver is a B...h.
Wonderful! I've had this kit sitting in my drawer for 6months! Thanks.
Anyone within spitting distance of a vertical mill should subscribe!
Another great video! Many thanks for the information and service you perform !
Thats great, thank you for sharing
Been waiting for this , thanx Barry!
Slotted screws? In 2021? I'll be using a socket screw for the lock screw. Slots get buggered up because screwdrivers get use as chisels , prybars , etc.
Just make sure you throw a washer in behind it so it hold's in that adjusting screw properly and that will work fine.
@@HWMachRepair Finally got around to doing our second machine with your nice kit. Re-watched your excellent tutorial again to refresh my old, sieve-like memory. And again, I made a pair of 'heads' for SHCS. I made a simple thick washer, 11/16 dia x 5/16 thick and tapped a 5/16-18 thru the center. Same size as the head of the original screw. I have one of those screw-holders, but again, the slots were too buggered up to use it. Went in nice and easy using a 1/4 hex bit on a 12" extension. Didn't drop either one!
Use a large screwdriver that fits the screw slot well. Clean the screwdriver and the slot with Acetone and stick them together with super glue. Break glue joint by twisting to remove the screwdriver. I haven’t tried this but it should work.
Just replaced both nuts on my 1970s era mill. The disassembly had a snag, I did all the steps in order but the lead screw would not come out. After sliding the table nearly off the ways I was able to see that there was a set screw drilled and tapped into the housing and into the nut. Not sure if this was factor but it was a pain.
Have you ever considered using a short piece of a lead screw about 10" long to use when replacing that key? I was thinking it would help support the walls of the nut when driving the pin, and it would also give you something to tap on when trying to remove the nut after the key was pinned. It would also free up the hand that you hold the punch with so that you could catch the nut before it falls to the ground. I know that many people don't like driving on a threaded object in that manner, but I myself haven't really had any problems doing that as long as I use my brain to evaluate how much force is too much for whatever I'm working on.
Just use the old nut and it wouldn't matter
I have a few of those screw holder deals! Im gonna need em I see
BARRY DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY THE Y AXIS CALIBRATION RING FOR THE FEED HANDLE IN IMPERIAL SCALE. SAE.
www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1231 They have a website...
Installation video of the warning plates & rivets would be nice, please.
That's a good short one, I added it to the list of suggestions. Thanks!
You gutta be kidding me? Warning plates?😂
@@SkinnyChumpRonny 2 years later? You kidding? Nintendo must've quit. 🤣🤣🤣
When you used the channel locks to take the nut off, was there a specific reason you used the pliers backwards? Im about to be pulling my mill down and im trying to gather all the knowledge/tricks of the trade as i can.
Do you have any additional description/part number from the vintage Stanley tool that you used? Thank you
Barry gets on Ebay occasionally and finds them on there. Stanley Screw Starter PN: 65-159
The nut I am took of the screw off the x axis has four holes in it.
Not sure what hole to drill on the new back nut for the oil line.
Do you guys sell quill clockspring rebuild kits and crank counterweights?
www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/1112 They have a website...
Thanks Stryker. If you don't have a Bridgeport we have other clocksprings on this page as well: www.machinerypartsdepot.com/product/CLKSPG
@@HWMachRepair Got it, thanks
Can you tell what thread the little retaining screw is at 10.30 mins thanks
That is the 1150 Washer Head Screw
@@HWMachRepair thanks but what size is it ,is it a UNF thread?
Barry, will this kit work on my '79 built Millport?
I know Barry already emailed you back, but I wanted to put this here for anyone else who had the same question: Millports are somewhat hit or miss when it comes to direct replacements. The first thing you will want to check is if your feed nut retaining screw is metric or imperial. If it is imperial then most likely it will all work for you. If it is metric then no. We can still get the nuts for the metric Millport mills so if you find it is metric give us a call at 800-285-5271 and we can get you pricing and current availability for the nuts.
good evening
I'm Valter from Napoli Italy
I've been following your great movies for several years.
I would like to ask you why my bridgeporto when I turn the hand lever for horizontal advancement of the large board is
on the right that the left end of the stroke becomes very heavy? How can I solve this problem ?
thank you
Greetings
Valter
gud job u hv don dear
since i'm removing the table anyway i just unscrew the x & y axis lead screw then remove the table then I can remove & work on the yoke way easier install the brass nuts install the yoke then table then put the handle back on the x screw wind it in and I dont need a long screwdriver agues thats ok ? my machine is a round ram built in 1954
You can do it that way if you prefer. We are just sharing what we have found to be the easiest.
Have you thought about not putting parts on the milled surface and rather using a cookie sheet in the bed to protect it?
Hi berry