Just found this channel after searching coyote building videos. I had a Gen5 Whipple installed on my 2014 back in the spring and I want more! I’m putting out 695WHP but I’m chasing 4 digit power now. I have a block ready for parts that I plan on building myself over the next little bit. Going fully forged internals, billet timing set, stage 3 blower cams. I’m really enjoying your videos. Thanks for making them!
Just finished up mine awesome video helped me more than you will know, but my passenger side tensioner (which is new) is hanging it’s not as springy as the driver side. I know they are pressurized by oil so should I replace it? Ir is that normal
Very good video. I'm a little old school and know about sbf, sbc, bbc, bbf. Just ole push rod engines, and currently own a 12 Boss 302 and just trying to rap my head around these coyote engines to have a better understanding.
At the 12 oclock position the pistons are far enough down to not hit either side. I pull the cams around to make up the slack. Different strokes same result lol
@@ConnorGuasti I have a 2011 GT I am trying to time. I had to remove the driver side cylinder head because of the valve problem on cylinder 8. I turned the crank like I wasn’t supposed to (more than once). The pass cylinder head is still installed but the main chain is not on it. Do I just rotate the crank until the crank key-way is at 12:00 and just make sure the timing marks line up?
@@ConnorGuasti Does it matter if the #1 cylinder is TDC or not, what about the intake stroke or compression stroke? The passenger side cams/secondary chains are still installed. With the main chains off, could I rotate the key way to 12 and rotate the cams on the passenger side so that the ID pads are at 45 degrees and be ok? And are the ID pads on the driver side to be moved to the flat horizontal position? Thank you for the quick response. I have to finish this thing before the weekend…per my landlord.
@shad johnsen with the keyway at the 12 position cylinders 5,6,1,3 are about an inch below the deck surface. I do not recommend spinning cams with the engine out of time, or chains off. The best thing to do (if you're worried) would be to pull the cam caps off, position the qr codes face up, then put the caps back on. On both the right and left side the qr codes will be facing up.
I could be mistaken on this, but I think the reason you have to do that is because the valve spring tension will be fighting you as you try to put the primary chain on bank 2. I can assure you that i personally (in my limited experience) haven't hurt a valve or piston surface doing it this way.
You can't see, but off camera im rolling the cams back counter clock wise with a wrench. Once rolled back far enough, i secure the wrench so the cams don't roll back clockwise
Well I’m doing timing chain to my 2011 mustang gen 1 coyote and was watching your video I took cams off and have it at 12 o’clock position and installed cams back with the code facing up but this method works just like going 9’oclock for driver side right?
Are you referring to right when i started? I moved the crank a few degrees gently by hand to get it to 12 o'clock. I mean something more like, "If you're very nervous about damaging something, just don't spin the crank with the cams on and chains off." Im just trying to help empower people, while keeping them out of trouble. But also letting them know..... its not that serious 🤣
The Coyote has just two types of phasers (intake and exhaust), which interchange from side to side. The exhaust phasers have two sprockets each. Secondary chains have timing links. The double link goes on the intake cam phaser (left). Single links are located at the exhaust cam phaser (right). This applies to both sides. i was watching your video as a guide now im correcting ing to factory instructions. im not smart enoght to know if it would make a differince or not
So, I recently completed a 3-1-1 build. I originally timed it with the driver side at the 9 o’clock and the passenger side at the 12. It was throwing cam codes. The exhaust on the driver side the was advanced. The exhaust cam on the passenger side was retarded. I installed limiters. Then the both showed advanced. A friend of mine helped me. We put the key way at the 10 o’clock position. (That’s how he always does them). Now it is showing both banks are running rich. Fouled set of plugs about to foul another. Replaced up streamed O2. Boost reference regulator at 55lbs with the vacuum off. Would you have any ideal what would cause this.
I'm having the same issue (P0024 exhaust advanced timing bank 2) on my 2013 F150 even after retiming. I found out after doing the retiming that there is a cam oil filter inside the center of the cam for the phasers. I'm hoping this fixes the advanced timing issue. My phasers are not locked out.
It honestly doesn't matter. There's an odd number of links on the chain. That's why there's 2 on one side, and one on the other. It doesn't matter which way you do it.
OK on the timing chain dark colored links that line up on the timing marks, for us first time guys worth saying FACTORY says - as Reggiestreet below states - single link on exhaust etc etc. Other videos state factory settings then you say something else, result waste a lot of time trying to find out who is right and or if it makes a difference, i did not want to mess this vital step up, watched your video first, then folks are telling me no. Did,nt seem like it would make any difference BUT ????
The meat of it is this. The tooth count on both sprockets is the same... either way you put the dark links, there's the same number of links in between the marked teeth. Therefore, in my opinion, it shouldn't matter. Also my car runs perfectly fine the way I do it in the video. If you are not confident, follow the factory setup guide on that part. Hopefully the rest of the video was helpful.
Just found this channel after searching coyote building videos. I had a Gen5 Whipple installed on my 2014 back in the spring and I want more! I’m putting out 695WHP but I’m chasing 4 digit power now. I have a block ready for parts that I plan on building myself over the next little bit. Going fully forged internals, billet timing set, stage 3 blower cams. I’m really enjoying your videos. Thanks for making them!
I need to make another one soon.
Nice same here.
Just finished up mine awesome video helped me more than you will know, but my passenger side tensioner (which is new) is hanging it’s not as springy as the driver side. I know they are pressurized by oil so should I replace it? Ir is that normal
Very good video. I'm a little old school and know about sbf, sbc, bbc, bbf. Just ole push rod engines, and currently own a 12 Boss 302 and just trying to rap my head around these coyote engines to have a better understanding.
Thanks sir!
I’m so glad I found another coyote lover
Thank you for the info. Pretty much the clearest one yet.
Thanks for the feedback!
Why did you stay at 12oclock for both sides instead of doing the driver side at 9oclock and then the pass side at 12oclock just wondering.
At the 12 oclock position the pistons are far enough down to not hit either side. I pull the cams around to make up the slack. Different strokes same result lol
@@ConnorGuasti I have a 2011 GT I am trying to time. I had to remove the driver side cylinder head because of the valve problem on cylinder 8. I turned the crank like I wasn’t supposed to (more than once). The pass cylinder head is still installed but the main chain is not on it. Do I just rotate the crank until the crank key-way is at 12:00 and just make sure the timing marks line up?
@@shadjohnsen8143 you could remove the cams and position the crank anywhere you want without worry. Once the keyway is at 12 then reinstall the cams
@@ConnorGuasti Does it matter if the #1 cylinder is TDC or not, what about the intake stroke or compression stroke? The passenger side cams/secondary chains are still installed. With the main chains off, could I rotate the key way to 12 and rotate the cams on the passenger side so that the ID pads are at 45 degrees and be ok? And are the ID pads on the driver side to be moved to the flat horizontal position? Thank you for the quick response. I have to finish this thing before the weekend…per my landlord.
@shad johnsen with the keyway at the 12 position cylinders 5,6,1,3 are about an inch below the deck surface. I do not recommend spinning cams with the engine out of time, or chains off. The best thing to do (if you're worried) would be to pull the cam caps off, position the qr codes face up, then put the caps back on. On both the right and left side the qr codes will be facing up.
Why didnt you roll the crank to the 9:00 position for the right side of engine
I could be mistaken on this, but I think the reason you have to do that is because the valve spring tension will be fighting you as you try to put the primary chain on bank 2. I can assure you that i personally (in my limited experience) haven't hurt a valve or piston surface doing it this way.
You can't see, but off camera im rolling the cams back counter clock wise with a wrench. Once rolled back far enough, i secure the wrench so the cams don't roll back clockwise
Well I’m doing timing chain to my 2011 mustang gen 1 coyote and was watching your video I took cams off and have it at 12 o’clock position and installed cams back with the code facing up but this method works just like going 9’oclock for driver side right?
I like the cam also the clear Visio would you help me with twin turbos on my f150
Shoot me a message on ig
You said don't turn the crancshaft, if the camshafts are not in place, but you turned it anyway?
Are you referring to right when i started? I moved the crank a few degrees gently by hand to get it to 12 o'clock. I mean something more like, "If you're very nervous about damaging something, just don't spin the crank with the cams on and chains off." Im just trying to help empower people, while keeping them out of trouble. But also letting them know..... its not that serious 🤣
The Coyote has just two types of phasers (intake and exhaust), which interchange from side to side. The exhaust phasers have two sprockets each. Secondary chains have timing links. The double link goes on the intake cam phaser (left). Single links are located at the exhaust cam phaser (right). This applies to both sides. i was watching your video as a guide now im correcting ing to factory instructions. im not smart enoght to know if it would make a differince or not
Just seeing this, after lots of dyno and street pulls over 1200 hp, i can confirm it did not make a difference haha
My cams got 1 dimple on them and the other 1 have 2 dimples?? Wich is wich?? Im lost
Great vid. Enjoyed the info telling
Extremely helpful bro. Thank you
Glad it helped
So, I recently completed a 3-1-1 build. I originally timed it with the driver side at the 9 o’clock and the passenger side at the 12. It was throwing cam codes. The exhaust on the driver side the was advanced. The exhaust cam on the passenger side was retarded. I installed limiters. Then the both showed advanced. A friend of mine helped me. We put the key way at the 10 o’clock position. (That’s how he always does them). Now it is showing both banks are running rich. Fouled set of plugs about to foul another. Replaced up streamed O2. Boost reference regulator at 55lbs with the vacuum off. Would you have any ideal what would cause this.
I wonder if you have a stuck injector?
I'm having the same issue (P0024 exhaust advanced timing bank 2) on my 2013 F150 even after retiming. I found out after doing the retiming that there is a cam oil filter inside the center of the cam for the phasers. I'm hoping this fixes the advanced timing issue. My phasers are not locked out.
@@SpicyGaijin I ended up having to replace my cams and heads to fix my issues.
I'm getting ready to replace my timing cover and seriously considered changing my chains since I was there
Do it!
@@ConnorGuasti done and done
Nice video connor, new camera looks great
Glad you're a fan! I got a little wider lense to get a little more in the shot
Hey I sent you a DM about the timing chain
Half the people on TH-cam are using the two colored- links on the intake phaser and the single colored-link on the exhaust phaser.
It honestly doesn't matter. There's an odd number of links on the chain. That's why there's 2 on one side, and one on the other. It doesn't matter which way you do it.
Great video
Thanks man!
Great video!
Thanks man! Appreciate it!
Great video dude
Thanks man! Hopefully it's helpful or enjoyable to watch haha
good video bro
Appreciate it
OK on the timing chain
dark colored links that line up on the timing marks, for us first time guys worth saying FACTORY says - as Reggiestreet below states - single link on exhaust etc etc. Other videos state factory settings then you say something else, result waste a lot of time trying to find out who is right and or if it makes a difference, i did not want to mess this vital step up, watched your video first, then folks are telling me no. Did,nt seem like it would make any difference BUT ????
The meat of it is this. The tooth count on both sprockets is the same... either way you put the dark links, there's the same number of links in between the marked teeth. Therefore, in my opinion, it shouldn't matter. Also my car runs perfectly fine the way I do it in the video. If you are not confident, follow the factory setup guide on that part. Hopefully the rest of the video was helpful.
Take time to insure the heck out of it then BURN IT 😎✌️
Yeah buddy
What ever happen to this dude and his cool informative videos?😢
Lol im busy bro!