From my understanding, you are not supposed to allow the container of coolant go empty before shutting off the valve because you are sucking air into the system if you don't.
That is great advice for anyone filling from new containers. Fill till one is empty, shut off valve, switch jugs and begin again. Thank you for the comment! I was able to do what I did since I was filling back what I drained (the exact amount) from one container. By the time it was sucking air the reservoir already filled.
The coolant is being added to the previously emptied reservoir and not directly into radiator (and the hoses connected). Once the reservoir displays even a tiny amount of fluid the radiator, all hoses and engine is full of fluid. The little air that is sucked in will not enter the radiator. The tiny amount of air being sucked in at the end (at this point in there is hardly any vacuum-dependent suction power left) of the procedure will not matter.
PEOPLE, IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS!!!!: You need to prime the refill tube completely with coolant so there is no air when you go to open up the valve. Defeats the entire purpose of using this tool. Also, don’t let the bucket get empty! Let it suck that coolant in, till it can’t suck no more! If it is still sucking coolant in, that means there’s still room for it… you can’t over fill it! All the air this guy was trying to avoid by using this tool, got sucked right into the system.
With bunch of adapters included you could have nicely secured the airlift onto the fillter neck and avoid any leaks. Also on refill letting air in slightly defeated the purpose of vacuum fill.
I used standard 1/4” fittings for all the connections, since that is what my compressor hose has. I used to use it without the hand gauge/valve, but it makes it easier to use single handed. I don’t believe a schrader valve (what tires use) would have enough flow, and you’d need the screw on type for it not to pop off.
Your insight that - each unit of mass must be accelerated to a higher velocity when it passes though the narrowed section of pipe made me think that the mass gains kinetic energy in the constricted section. This energy has to come from somewhere. In this case it comes from the potential energy stored in the pressure, by lowering the pressure in the constricted region. Math is good but I would also like to hear about the physics to gain a deeper understanding.
It is amazing how much physics is at play even in simple devices like a venturi valve, let alone a combustion engine or electric motor as a whole. One of my favorite classes during college covered ICE engines in detail, the thermodynamics & chemistry to be specific. Thank you for the comment, I’m glad to see a positive reaction to the math discussion.
Sir, is it necessary to completely drain the cooling system before using this device? It seems that the physics would be the same whether the system is only partially drained or fully drained given that under vacuum, only air pockets change volume while the liquid does not change volume.
what units is the vacuum gauge you use there? what is 30? mmHg? PSI?, Pasquals? hecto-pasquals? It can not be psi, because 30 psi is 2 atm and you can not create -30 psi of vacuum on earth under open sky.
The gauge is in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero set to atmospheric pressure. I was curious and looked it up, 1 inHg = 0.49 psi, so 14.7 psi = 29.93 inHG. Thus -29.93 inHg would be -14.7 psi gauge aka 0 psi absolute. Now it makes sense why the gauge goes to 30, you could not go lower than that.
You just made 1 small mistake, when you first suck the coolant back into the system, there is air in the hoose, ideally the hoose should be pre-filled with coolant, to avoid losing the vacuum in the cooling system.
Nice explanation but you missed the point when evacuating air when you added coolant most cars the way you added coolant without purging the air in the coolant hose will work but reverse flow system like a ford 3.5 or 3.2 won’t work you need to add a 1/8 inch tee and a ball valve together with the airlift or just purge air from your coolant hose before adding coolant to the airlift valve the point being why pull a vacuum only to introduce air when refilling CHEERS
i am not sure about the acidity. the pink liquid contains H3PO4, because phosphates are the least soluble salts known, while being nonvolatile and non-toxic. so, pure H3PO4 (about 30%) is used as rust convertor. well, if you are alkaline, then you may dissolve aluminum components. anyone correct me?
Thank you for this comment, I enjoyed doing a little research on the subject. I did not know high (alkaline) pH values could damage aluminum as well as low (acidic) ones. Perhaps this is why it is not advised to run straight coolant concentrate, and to mix it instead (along with the lower specific heat vs water). Asian coolants use phosphate (PO4) as an additive, so it being there makes sense. But where does the H3 come from to form the phosphoric acid (H3PO4)? I will say I have plenty of experience using phosphoric acid (35-45%, purchased as concrete prep & etch) to stabilize rust, it works great. But I never would have guessed it would form in a cooling system…
From my understanding, you are not supposed to allow the container of coolant go empty before shutting off the valve because you are sucking air into the system if you don't.
That is great advice for anyone filling from new containers. Fill till one is empty, shut off valve, switch jugs and begin again. Thank you for the comment!
I was able to do what I did since I was filling back what I drained (the exact amount) from one container. By the time it was sucking air the reservoir already filled.
The coolant is being added to the previously emptied reservoir and not directly into radiator (and the hoses connected). Once the reservoir displays even a tiny amount of fluid the radiator, all hoses and engine is full of fluid. The little air that is sucked in will not enter the radiator.
The tiny amount of air being sucked in at the end (at this point in there is hardly any vacuum-dependent suction power left) of the procedure will not matter.
Love the math discussion keep it going
Thanks for the comment, good to hear from viewers. I too love when TH-camrs explain things scientifically (Fortnine is a good example of this)
Awesome video will have to buy this thing. Thanks
Interesting info. I'm hardly a math expert, but I can appreciate it just the same.
Thank you breaking down the venturi effect. Makes this video more interesting
Glad you liked it, it is fascinating to checkout the math behind our everyday world.
I appreciate the math lesson! If someone doesn't, they can double tap to fast-forward.
That is a good way of looking at it, thanks for the comment!
You are great at explanation. Keep it up. Most informative video yet
PEOPLE, IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS!!!!:
You need to prime the refill tube completely with coolant so there is no air when you go to open up the valve. Defeats the entire purpose of using this tool. Also, don’t let the bucket get empty! Let it suck that coolant in, till it can’t suck no more! If it is still sucking coolant in, that means there’s still room for it… you can’t over fill it! All the air this guy was trying to avoid by using this tool, got sucked right into the system.
With bunch of adapters included you could have nicely secured the airlift onto the fillter neck and avoid any leaks. Also on refill letting air in slightly defeated the purpose of vacuum fill.
Appreciate whole video. Engineering lesson was great. New sub from your detailed narration. Looking forward to all your videos.
Thanks 👍 yes
Did you use a regular tire valve with hose & guage when siphoning system?
I used standard 1/4” fittings for all the connections, since that is what my compressor hose has. I used to use it without the hand gauge/valve, but it makes it easier to use single handed.
I don’t believe a schrader valve (what tires use) would have enough flow, and you’d need the screw on type for it not to pop off.
Your insight that - each unit of mass must be accelerated to a higher velocity when it passes though the narrowed section of pipe made me think that the mass gains kinetic energy in the constricted section. This energy has to come from somewhere. In this case it comes from the potential energy stored in the pressure, by lowering the pressure in the constricted region.
Math is good but I would also like to hear about the physics to gain a deeper understanding.
It is amazing how much physics is at play even in simple devices like a venturi valve, let alone a combustion engine or electric motor as a whole. One of my favorite classes during college covered ICE engines in detail, the thermodynamics & chemistry to be specific. Thank you for the comment, I’m glad to see a positive reaction to the math discussion.
Sir, is it necessary to completely drain the cooling system before using this device? It seems that the physics would be the same whether the system is only partially drained or fully drained given that under vacuum, only air pockets change volume while the liquid does not change volume.
Thanks for the really informative video. Appreciate it!
what units is the vacuum gauge you use there? what is 30? mmHg? PSI?, Pasquals? hecto-pasquals? It can not be psi, because 30 psi is 2 atm and you can not create -30 psi of vacuum on earth under open sky.
The gauge is in inches of mercury (inHg), with zero set to atmospheric pressure. I was curious and looked it up, 1 inHg = 0.49 psi, so 14.7 psi = 29.93 inHG.
Thus -29.93 inHg would be -14.7 psi gauge aka 0 psi absolute.
Now it makes sense why the gauge goes to 30, you could not go lower than that.
@@BrenoAutoGarage thank you very much. i also figured it out. i am used to see pressure in mmHg or atm.
Inches of vacuum
You just made 1 small mistake, when you first suck the coolant back into the system, there is air in the hoose, ideally the hoose should be pre-filled with coolant, to avoid losing the vacuum in the cooling system.
Nice explanation but you missed the point when evacuating air when you added coolant most cars the way you added coolant without purging the air in the coolant hose will work but reverse flow system like a ford 3.5 or 3.2 won’t work you need to add a 1/8 inch tee and a ball valve together with the airlift or just purge air from your coolant hose before adding coolant to the airlift valve the point being why pull a vacuum only to introduce air when refilling CHEERS
I missed the point I meant 2.3 or 2.5 fords big correction CHEERS
i am not sure about the acidity. the pink liquid contains H3PO4, because phosphates are the least soluble salts known, while being nonvolatile and non-toxic. so, pure H3PO4 (about 30%) is used as rust convertor. well, if you are alkaline, then you may dissolve aluminum components. anyone correct me?
Thank you for this comment, I enjoyed doing a little research on the subject. I did not know high (alkaline) pH values could damage aluminum as well as low (acidic) ones. Perhaps this is why it is not advised to run straight coolant concentrate, and to mix it instead (along with the lower specific heat vs water).
Asian coolants use phosphate (PO4) as an additive, so it being there makes sense. But where does the H3 come from to form the phosphoric acid (H3PO4)?
I will say I have plenty of experience using phosphoric acid (35-45%, purchased as concrete prep & etch) to stabilize rust, it works great. But I never would have guessed it would form in a cooling system…
Perfect, like it
I like the math just don't understand it as i need more training.
Math is good. Viewers not interested can always skip that part.
you let air back into the system. never let the fluid go empty drawing air
😂😂😂
Hey, we just reach out to you via Instagram DM for a product review. Hope hear from you soon 🙏🏼
Thank you for reaching out. I have been on vacation, I just responded to your message.