There’s a mistake in this instructional video! At around 2:41 you should SLOWY up the valve for the fluid line to allow the coolant to just barely touch the shut off point. Then shut off the valve when the fluid reaches the gauge. Keep your compressor connected and reopen the valve for the vacuum. And get another perfect vacuum. If you don’t do this, all the air that is in the fluid line will get reintroduced into your cooling system. Take a closer look at the time stamp and look at where he makes the mistake.
Imma mechanic and did the “wrong way” on a thousand cars no problem tbh that’s jus gonna overflow the expansion tank and make a mess I’ve tried doin that before and u always over fill the system and gotta suck it out
You forgot to prime the tube first, at 2:44 you put some air in it along side with coolant. But it doesnt matter that much, the system usually purges itself after a while, and after all, this is a commercial video.
Thats what i was thinking about. I think if you created air by disconnecting on hose at the end of the line the vacuum will be effective but if all lines are closed then vacuum wont drain any water bc simply no air
In the video, he said to drain all the coolant first (obviously), but the video showed the red bobber sticking up way past the lip of the expansion tank! Could be confusing for some people.
@@menaceemceefiend9716 They say to drain all coolant from the system. But then they show the expansion tank that has the float sticking up when he is selecting the correct size filler neck adapter. If the system was really empty the float would not be floating on coolant like it was.
I have a concern here... BMW and Mercedes both call for -.9 bar of vacuum pressure, you barely got it up to -.7. Another thing, when drawing coolant from the tank, you basically reintroduced a hose tube full of air. Shouldn't you have sucked it up, then purged the air back down before filling the coolant? For all the DIY'ers out there... good luck.
will this suck air from the block and heater core? i mean thermostat is close when its cold so how does this one will suck air in the block of the engine?
No you would have to refill the system as instructed using distilled water only and run the vehicle till you reach operating temp.Then put the heater on high using face vents and fan on low . Let it run then after a cool down, Re drain the system at the radiator and repeat till you are satisfied you have removed enough of the old coolant. Then carefully add undiluted coolant to any remaining distilled water into the tank or radiator to achieve a proper mix. Back in the day when cars were less complex you could remove the thermostat and do a flush .Access your heater core hoses and flush that out also. Replace your upper and lower hoses and install a new thermostat and you were done !
Will this work to bleed the system after it's been filled? I've got an M Roadster I've struggled to get all of the air out of. I'd like to avoid draining it again if I can. Can I just hook it up to bleed the system?
The thermostat will be on the supply side of the system (just before the return to the radiator). Since you're creating a vacuum, you're also sending coolant in through the lower radiator hose (return to the engine), so you're essentially going in behind a closed thermostat. The thermostat shouldn't be a problem.
I can’t use my thermostat on my 07 335i because the power wire broke can I still use this to make sure my coolant lines are bleed prooperly or do I need my thermostat to be on
Is this only for European cars? Will this work for Japanese cars like Toyota and Honda? Description says universal tool but only lists European car manufacturers..
Q Tran one more question, have you used it yet and if so how well does the adapter cone hold pressure cause i herd that some cone adapters tend to leak air, thank you for your response really appreciated!!
I have used it a few times at work and had random success with it (I work at a toyota dealer). Sometimes it will hold vacuum. Sometimes it will leak vacuum at a very low rate. Other times it would build vacuum and the moment you cut off the shop air the vacuum instantly drops. I kind of dislike the cone because it requires you to use your hands to stabilize the entire tool so it gets a perfect seal. If you tilt it one way or the other you may get a vacuum leak. The reservoir style they show in this video allows you to operate the tool with your hands free so you can walk away. Using the cone style adapter requires you to have at minimum 1 hand holding it at all times and if you let it go it'll just tip over and not seal. I have just resorted going back to using my Lisle spill-free funnel kit.
Q Tran a friend of mine recomended me to get the Smart fit radiator universal adapter kit from redline, he says that works very well, I also have the lisle funnel kit but damn! That takes too long.
it isn't *needed* in 99% of applications, but it certainly takes a ton of work out when compared to manually bleeding, especially when you've evacuated the entire cooling system. In manual bleeding, you're likely to still have some air bubbles that require driving and regular checks over the following week or so to make sure you're not running low on coolant after all the little passages fill up and purge out the air. Some systems are self-bleeding in that way and will expel air at operating temperature through a pressure release valve, others are not. With vacuum bleeding, you are ensuring that there are no air bubbles when you refill the system. I can tell you especially on something like a 996 or 997 Carrera with a rear engine and front radiators, doing it manually takes about 6 hours and doing it with a vacuum purge tool like this takes about 20 minutes.
Refill & Air Purge Tool available here: goo.gl/pfUUP4
Excellent video. I have watched many DYI'ers and this is straight and to the point, specifically for this tool.
There’s a mistake in this instructional video! At around 2:41 you should SLOWY up the valve for the fluid line to allow the coolant to just barely touch the shut off point. Then shut off the valve when the fluid reaches the gauge. Keep your compressor connected and reopen the valve for the vacuum. And get another perfect vacuum. If you don’t do this, all the air that is in the fluid line will get reintroduced into your cooling system. Take a closer look at the time stamp and look at where he makes the mistake.
Good tip, thanks!
Imma mechanic and did the “wrong way” on a thousand cars no problem tbh that’s jus gonna overflow the expansion tank and make a mess I’ve tried doin that before and u always over fill the system and gotta suck it out
You forgot to prime the tube first, at 2:44 you put some air in it along side with coolant. But it doesnt matter that much, the system usually purges itself after a while, and after all, this is a commercial video.
Order the tool online on Sunday on front porch 6 days later 3 hrs later 2016 golf Coolant changed THANK YOU ECS TUNING
Temp on Hot and Fan on Low, got it. Your video shows pushing the defrost, which puts the fan on high, as it does on the video. So, defrost on or off?
Can you use the vacuum to drain the system through the reservoir?
Thats what i was thinking about. I think if you created air by disconnecting on hose at the end of the line the vacuum will be effective but if all lines are closed then vacuum wont drain any water bc simply no air
In the video, he said to drain all the coolant first (obviously), but the video showed the red bobber sticking up way past the lip of the expansion tank! Could be confusing for some people.
What do you mean?
@@menaceemceefiend9716 They say to drain all coolant from the system. But then they show the expansion tank that has the float sticking up when he is selecting the correct size filler neck adapter. If the system was really empty the float would not be floating on coolant like it was.
@@rb26dett32 I actually did got confused by this!!!
I have a concern here... BMW and Mercedes both call for -.9 bar of vacuum pressure, you barely got it up to -.7. Another thing, when drawing coolant from the tank, you basically reintroduced a hose tube full of air. Shouldn't you have sucked it up, then purged the air back down before filling the coolant? For all the DIY'ers out there... good luck.
will this suck air from the block and heater core? i mean thermostat is close when its cold so how does this one will suck air in the block of the engine?
No you would have to refill the system as instructed using distilled water only and run the vehicle till you reach operating temp.Then put the heater on high using face vents and fan on low . Let it run then after a cool down, Re drain the system at the radiator and repeat till you are satisfied you have removed enough of the old coolant. Then carefully add undiluted coolant to any remaining distilled water into the tank or radiator to achieve a proper mix. Back in the day when cars were less complex you could remove the thermostat and do a flush .Access your heater core hoses and flush that out also. Replace your upper and lower hoses and install a new thermostat and you were done !
does anyone know a good air compressor to use for this or the right attachment?
Could I use it to just refile the Coolant after adding a Heat Exchanger to my Audi?
Will this work to bleed the system after it's been filled? I've got an M Roadster I've struggled to get all of the air out of. I'd like to avoid draining it again if I can. Can I just hook it up to bleed the system?
Just because there is no more vacuum in the system doesn’t mean it’s full.
Does the tool fill the entire system even if there is a thermostat separating the engine section from the radiator section?
The thermostat will be on the supply side of the system (just before the return to the radiator). Since you're creating a vacuum, you're also sending coolant in through the lower radiator hose (return to the engine), so you're essentially going in behind a closed thermostat. The thermostat shouldn't be a problem.
Can we suck all the old coolant with those tools without draining it? 🤔
I can’t use my thermostat on my 07 335i because the power wire broke can I still use this to make sure my coolant lines are bleed prooperly or do I need my thermostat to be on
Can I use this to suck out the coolant instead of draining it via the drain screw on the bottom of the radiator?
I’m wondering the same thing.
No
Disconnect one hose at the end of the line to creat air so vacuum can be effective
"How to do a Coolant Flush | Schwaben Refill/Air Purge Tool" It does not do a coolant flush
What psi on the air compressor for this?
I bought this tool, and i have an airlock in my heater. So do I need to still jack up my car and then put this tool on?
Did you get the air out?
My gauge does not move past a few lines above 0, what am i doing wrong?
@@LeaningElephant just ended up being a not good enough air compressor
@jessicajune86 just ended up being not a good air compressor
Is this only for European cars? Will this work for Japanese cars like Toyota and Honda? Description says universal tool but only lists European car manufacturers..
Q Tran did you find out if this works on hondas or toyotas cause i have both
Marcos Rico yes this kit comes with a cone shaped adapter that works on toyotas. Got this kit for sale for like $55
Q Tran one more question, have you used it yet and if so how well does the adapter cone hold pressure cause i herd that some cone adapters tend to leak air, thank you for your response really appreciated!!
I have used it a few times at work and had random success with it (I work at a toyota dealer). Sometimes it will hold vacuum. Sometimes it will leak vacuum at a very low rate. Other times it would build vacuum and the moment you cut off the shop air the vacuum instantly drops. I kind of dislike the cone because it requires you to use your hands to stabilize the entire tool so it gets a perfect seal. If you tilt it one way or the other you may get a vacuum leak. The reservoir style they show in this video allows you to operate the tool with your hands free so you can walk away. Using the cone style adapter requires you to have at minimum 1 hand holding it at all times and if you let it go it'll just tip over and not seal.
I have just resorted going back to using my Lisle spill-free funnel kit.
Q Tran a friend of mine recomended me to get the Smart fit radiator universal adapter kit from redline, he says that works very well, I also have the lisle funnel kit but damn! That takes too long.
Why is this even needed? Just fill with coolant after draining. Never had a problem.
it isn't *needed* in 99% of applications, but it certainly takes a ton of work out when compared to manually bleeding, especially when you've evacuated the entire cooling system.
In manual bleeding, you're likely to still have some air bubbles that require driving and regular checks over the following week or so to make sure you're not running low on coolant after all the little passages fill up and purge out the air. Some systems are self-bleeding in that way and will expel air at operating temperature through a pressure release valve, others are not.
With vacuum bleeding, you are ensuring that there are no air bubbles when you refill the system. I can tell you especially on something like a 996 or 997 Carrera with a rear engine and front radiators, doing it manually takes about 6 hours and doing it with a vacuum purge tool like this takes about 20 minutes.
Oscillary position...? What the hell they mean with this comical word?
Auxiliary position. Basically when all the lights are on but not engine
Nice