Finally! A person that uses this tool and primes the feed line. I cannot tell you how many videos I watch where people use these tools and I watch the air in the empty line get sucked into the cooling system when they open the valve to refill. Thank you.
Is it possible to 'prime' the line if the tool doesn't have the second valve like the Schwaben one does (my one is slightly different). Very handy video, and great presenting !
@@TheRobphobos 2 years late, but i just suck some coolant through a tube, one end in the bottle one end in your mouth, cover over end with finger once its full to stop it all leaking out
Great video. I love your professionalism and attention to detail. I once had a Mazda that used coolant once a week. I couldn't find the leak but got a small whiff of coolant occasionally . Eventually, I parked it on all kinds of angles and squashed the hoses as much as I could. A tiny spot of green appeared at the bottom of the timing cover. Water pump bearing was leaking but only when parked just right and only for a few minutes as it cooled and sealed. It was the first time I'd seen a pump behind the timing cover. It had been pooling slightly in the bottom of the cover and evaporating without dripping at all. Now I've seen it often as they are mostly like this these days. First time had me going crazy!
I bought a cheapo filler off amazon & was not happy with it. So I put money down & got the Marvac from Cornwell. Day & night. If I woulda saw your video earlier I might have bought this one. You primed your hose a lot cleaner than I did. The weight is a slick idea. Thanks for your info!
Nice ! Just voted ! Your right by bringing it up to temp then letting it cool back down. When it cools down everything contracts leaving a void in the cooling system creating a vacuum allowing the coolant in the reserve bottle to be drawn into the radiator. After cooling down it Is a good idea to top off the reserve bottle too, to the appropriate level. Take Care !
Its on my list of things to get, just did a t belt WP on my civic and got air pocket ( maybe head gasket and I will use the pulse senor in radiator to check). Those airlifts were becoming very popular as I left the in shop scene in 2011. Thanks for taking the time to show how to work it.
Thanks for the awesome demonstration Mario! That is the only way to fill cooling systems, because it is so clean, quick, and like you said, the only way to make sure it doesn't have any air in the system; especially when filling up the newer pressurized systems. Our shop has an Airlift, but it doesn't have the ability to setup the vacuum and feed hoses simultaneously; so that's really cool to be able to prime the hose as you showed and prevent that bit of air from getting in initially. That's a really great tool for the price and I think I am going to pick one of those up so I have my own.
My co-worker has the snap-on version of this tool, I used it once on a 6 cylinder mustang worked perfectly, great tip on the supply step so we don’t introduce air into the system. Feliz navidad Mario
Awesome tip on prime in the system first. Just bought the Schwaben tool to do a coolant swap in my Porsche Cayenne. It’s a system that is extremely sensitive to air in the lines so am a little apprehensive but sure it will come out fine. Only crappy part is the cayenne doesn’t have a drain plug in the radiator so I have to pull the lower hose off and drain as much as possible and then vacuum the rest out of the system.
Ur the only one I saw purging the fill hose Good job and advice The company should use u on how to do this correctly EVERYONE says that fill tube is minuscule U did the air evacuation the correct way CHEERS MERRY CHRISTMAS THANKS 🙏
Great video, as usual, man. The only thing that I would add is that I find that it's beneficial to place the coolant supply container higher than the fill point of the car. Helps it fill more completely. Also, it helps to _completely_ drain the cooling system. At my shop we specialize in Porsche where many of the models have the engine in the back of the vehicle. This means they have to pump coolant through lines underneath the car to the radiators up front and there is are many opportunities for air pockets to form. There are also several points that require hoses to be pulled off to drain out all of the coolant. Failure to do this causes incomplete filling and overheating on the test drive. Also, some Porsche's require a scan tool to run a function to help bleed the cooling system, so always check the repair information. Most cars do not have these kinds of issues, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
SUBSTANTIAL Super Mario Diagnostics Sharing what you know with us Thank you very much Super Mario Diagnostics From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
If the vehicle can sit overnight or 8 hrs or so, i always prefer that. I have topped off after test drive and letting cool off, but check overflow/degas the next morning and its a pint to a quart low. But of course you don't always have that luxury or time. Good video man and good job on finding the leak. I love that tool myself!!
Awesome video! The weight at the bottom of supply hose is a great idea that I will now implement myself , thanks!! One thing I did notice I do differently is turn the vehicle ignition on and set temperature control to hot and fan speed on Incase of any temperature control valve in the heater hose. I can’t take credit for that idea though as it was isn’t the instructions of my air lift , lol. Keep it up!
Hi Super Mario, an amazing video on all the steps to using this tool, the BEST I've ever seen. I purchased the exact same tool and followed all of your steps to the letter. I have 1 question. After i completed the vacuum part , I opened the valve to allow the new coolant to start filling the system but NOTHING HAPPENED to allow the coolant to start filling the system. This was done on a 2018 5.0l mustang. Do you have any ideas WHY THIS HAPPENED? I would appreciate your advice and feedback. 😢😢😢
I just purchased one of these kits, because I’ve been trying to bleed the air out of my Acura ILX, for 3 days, and I’m still getting bubbles. Hopefully this will fix the issue? Great video 👍
Awesome kit you use!! I use the snappy one , it amazing especially for the hard to bleed systems and I do the same I test drive 5 to 10 miles and recheck for top off. Big big help on Camaro's
Pretty cool tool, especially for the price. A coworker of mine turned me on to the Matco one and I love it. No more filler funnel and waiting for bubbles to stop in the old school coolant funnels that screw on the radiators! Also, I'm stealing your weight idea, as well as priming the filler hose. I never thought about small amount of air making that much of a difference. The directions on mine didn't say to do that, but it makes total sense. Good tips on finding the coolant leaks too! Voted for ya dude
Awesome video bro very well explained. I like to make sure my thermostat opens, and fan turns on before I test drive if possible then after a good test drive I let it set for a few hours top it off drive it again double check my work and ship it.
That tool or similar is required equipment if you work on VWs or Audis. It is nearly impossible to get all the air out of the heater core without the airlift. The vehicle may run fine and the engine temp will be normal, but there will be no heat in the car because of an air pocket in the heater core. Thanks for the video and tips.
Interesting. I've never used one of these. How much do you typically have to add after filling with the tool? Have you ever had the vacuum cause issues components of the cooling system? I'm imagining it cracking brittle plastic barbs or sucking in RTV from a fresh gasket. But I suppose those things are all rated for pressure, so vacuum is really no different.
@@PaulyD0859 This is true. However, the weird thing is that sometimes an o-ring or gasket will fail under pressure, but survive just fine under vacuum. Or vice versa. I've seen O-rings fail that way more than once, especially those that are exposed to years and years of pressure in one direction, and then suddenly subjected to a reverse flow.
You guys are lucky to live in USA 🇺🇸, we here in Australia get screwed by the government, then businesses and individuals. Everything here costs at least 3 times of what you pay in the USA 🇺🇸.
Gone are the days of using a garden hose to fill a radiator. But I don't mind buying a tool if it does the job correctly. Now with this video I have no reason to fail. :)
Really good video with the OEM coolant tool. Is it possible to explain how to alter the tool to also pressurize the system as you stated at the beginning?
Hello Super Mario! I bought this device and have a few dumb questions. 1. Should i drain all the coolant out first before using the device or this device can drain the coolant through the vacuum? 2. Can this device vacuum all the coolant out of the engine? Or should I have to do something first like warm up the engine before? 3. What is the pressure in the compressor before I hook it up on the airvac refiner? Great video. Thank you in advance for your help!!!
Good video, Mario. I had the snap on version, that I probably paid 3 times for. And for the most part, I only used one brand of coolant with it. But I never cleaned mine out and the coolant ended up drying and damaging it. So yes, like you said, make sure you're cleaning it afterwards!
Hello Mario, I replaced water pump on my 2010 Fusion hybrid and now car is overheating, heater blowing cold air, do I vaccum both coolant fill reservoir ( EV and gas motor) thanks
Just did a Chevy Volt battery pack. Vacuum evac is required on batt cooling system,while GDS 2 does system bleed pulsing coolant pump.Takes about an hour.
The first vacuum filler I got was a universal type like that with the rubber plug, but the ones that use the pressure test adapters are way better. The Cornwell one is the best. You have to have adapters for every car, but it's not really that many. Most techs have their own pressure testers and fillers, but I actually feel like it should be the shop's responsibility to buy the master kit for adapters. It's really expensive and we already have to buy so many tools.
I bought this kit way before I got to this shop. One of the reasons I came over here was because of the shop owners willingness to provide whatever we need. I'll keep an eye out for the cornwell kit since I have a thing where I just gotta have my own 😆 thanks for watching bud
I got a kit off Amazon that comes with about 2 dozen adapters, a pressure pump and the vacuum filler for $120. Then, I added the Astro Pneumatic pressure tester that works off shop air. I’ve used it hundreds of times without issue.
@@PaulyD0859 The Cornwell kit was about $165, about $100 cheaper than the Snap-On one, but if the Amazon one is good, can you link it so I can tell other guys in the shop what to get? It's good to support local tool dealers and American companies, but no one is out there trying to make sure techs are bringing home a living wage. We have to get the best tools at the best prices.
If you search Amazon for the term “28 piece radiator pressure tester” a bunch will pop up. Prices vary but they all look the same to me. I paid $120 for mine. I like the selection of exact fit caps and the vacuum filler works great. If you’re interested, I’ve also got the Astro Pneumatic 7856 air powered pressure tester that fits the radiator cap adapters. It’s quick and I like that I can pressure test a cooling system without having to fill it first or pump my arm off to make pressure.
Great vid thank you, just two points, thanks for dealing with any coolant left in that won't drain out (no-one else seems to) 2) How does it pull coolant/vacuum past the thermostat? Thanks
What psi should be at the compressor VS the psi at the top of the tool gauge? I tested a similar tool but I never saw the heater core lines compress only the bigger lines at the radiator and pressure help at 24psi. Makes me wonder is the thermostat never opened.. thx
Very nice video Thank you. I know you posted the video in 2019 , and you did a great job being detailed about all steps. Someone asked you about the modification you did for pressurizing and either you missed the question or didn’t wish to respond. I am wondering if the modification included adding a 1/4” female/female/male 180 degree valve ahead of the Venturi system? Best,
I must've missed it. I did use a 180 valve. And changed the gauge to include both vacuum and pressure. But i eventually stopped using that to pressirize the system, and stuck to the dedicated coolant pressure tester
That was a great video, very informative. I put a Subaru 2.5 NA SOHC motor in my 71 VW Fastback and haven’t been able to get the air out even with the vacuum tool. You explained how to prime the line and I think that’s where I have been doing things wrong? Definitely going to prime the line next time. Could I be doing anything else wrong? Thank man!!!
Super Mario Diagnostics I just had this engine rebuilt by a good shop and I’d be really bummed if it were a head gasket leak. I modified my Airlift vacuum tool to be able to prime the line like yours and did as you said in your video. I ran the car at idle until the fans came on and the temp kept climbing and I had to shut it down. I have a funnel mounted to my radiator and when I shut it down I had some good size bubbles come out so I feel that’s promising??? Are there test strips or something to determine whether I have a gasket problem? Thank you for responding to my questions, that means a lot!!!!
Yes that would be the "block test" I have better methods but that may involve equipment that many won't have. But s block test should at least get you going in the right direction
Need to mention one big key feature of this tool. Gauge on top. Can pull a vacuum and watch to see if it drop the vac and if it does you have a leak. This has saved my butt many times. I get pulled away from the car. And forget to tighten a hose clamp. Or a gasket didn't sea. All without oone once of coolant lost.
One thing you do have to keep in mind is cracking or pulling a seal in on radiator side or top tanks on rads or cores with age when using the vacuum fill. Sometimes you should break out the big funnel if things are looking iffy.
@@PaulyD0859 normally you'd do that, but calling back a customer who has no money to sell them a radiator cause it sucked in and popped sucks. Radiators are really designed to be pressurized, so an older rad that isn't leaking may be after vacuum filling it.
Did you have to use a pry bar on the frame to push the motor a bit to make room for the water pump to come out? Lol I've done a few of those and that's the only way I've been able to do it. Great video btw
You have to drain the old coolant manually. But if it is clean and fresh, yes, you could use this system to refill the system with the old coolant if you want.
This will not extract coolant from the system. This will only vacuum the system then refill. The system doesn't have to be fully drained to use. The idea is to get all of the air to the top
You mention that your gauge is inaccurate ? are you concerned you may be pulling too much vacuum on the system with unregulated shop air and stressing hoses etc...
The only thing I noticed that you didn't do what some other shops advise which is to turn on the ignition and activate the heater during the vacuum procedure to make sure the heater core is also getting purged, maybe this one didn't need it? Just wondering.
Can you use this to drain a full cooling system like qhen your making a repair instead of draining from bottom of radiator? Also what's the link for this tool?
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics so if i was to pull a vacuum on a full cooling system wouldn't the coolant come out the blow off tube..until the system reached full vacuum?
@@albertsautodiagnosticsllc2130 You would never remove all the coolant from the vehicle's cooling system doing it that way. These types of tools are NOT designed to be a shortcut for draining the coolant system. In fact, in their user manuals, every single manufacturer specifically that you remove as much coolant as possible from the vehicle prior to evacuation, as the tool's efficiency drops markedly once coolant reaches the device.
This guy's attention to detail and thoroughness is what's missing in most shops.
Finally! A person that uses this tool and primes the feed line. I cannot tell you how many videos I watch where people use these tools and I watch the air in the empty line get sucked into the cooling system when they open the valve to refill. Thank you.
Is it possible to 'prime' the line if the tool doesn't have the second valve like the Schwaben one does (my one is slightly different).
Very handy video, and great presenting !
Could not agree more!
@@TheRobphobos 2 years late, but i just suck some coolant through a tube, one end in the bottle one end in your mouth, cover over end with finger once its full to stop it all leaking out
Best video on the internet describing how to use this tool. Thank you.
Good concise video, perfect amount of good info without any fluff
Great video. I love your professionalism and attention to detail.
I once had a Mazda that used coolant once a week. I couldn't find the leak but got a small whiff of coolant occasionally . Eventually, I parked it on all kinds of angles and squashed the hoses as much as I could. A tiny spot of green appeared at the bottom of the timing cover. Water pump bearing was leaking but only when parked just right and only for a few minutes as it cooled and sealed. It was the first time I'd seen a pump behind the timing cover. It had been pooling slightly in the bottom of the cover and evaporating without dripping at all. Now I've seen it often as they are mostly like this these days. First time had me going crazy!
I bought a cheapo filler off amazon & was not happy with it. So I put money down & got the Marvac from Cornwell. Day & night. If I woulda saw your video earlier I might have bought this one. You primed your hose a lot cleaner than I did. The weight is a slick idea. Thanks for your info!
Thank you for the tutorial. Where has this tool been all my life?
Love your attention to detail. Thank you!
A very useful tool for today cars. Nice demonstration.
Nice ! Just voted ! Your right by bringing it up to temp then letting it cool back down. When it cools down everything contracts leaving a void in the cooling system creating a vacuum allowing the coolant in the reserve bottle to be drawn into the radiator. After cooling down it Is a good idea to top off the reserve bottle too, to the appropriate level. Take Care !
Its on my list of things to get, just did a t belt WP on my civic and got air pocket ( maybe head gasket and I will use the pulse senor in radiator to check). Those airlifts were becoming very popular as I left the in shop scene in 2011. Thanks for taking the time to show how to work it.
Worth every cent bud, thanks for watching Brian
Well explained Mario. We have a similar one at the shop. That weight is a great idea. Makes life easier. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Thanks for the awesome demonstration Mario!
That is the only way to fill cooling systems, because it is so clean, quick, and like you said, the only way to make sure it doesn't have any air in the system; especially when filling up the newer pressurized systems.
Our shop has an Airlift, but it doesn't have the ability to setup the vacuum and feed hoses simultaneously; so that's really cool to be able to prime the hose as you showed and prevent that bit of air from getting in initially.
That's a really great tool for the price and I think I am going to pick one of those up so I have my own.
My co-worker has the snap-on version of this tool, I used it once on a 6 cylinder mustang worked perfectly, great tip on the supply step so we don’t introduce air into the system. Feliz navidad Mario
Thanks Juan, Feliz navidad
Awesome tip on prime in the system first. Just bought the Schwaben tool to do a coolant swap in my Porsche Cayenne. It’s a system that is extremely sensitive to air in the lines so am a little apprehensive but sure it will come out fine. Only crappy part is the cayenne doesn’t have a drain plug in the radiator so I have to pull the lower hose off and drain as much as possible and then vacuum the rest out of the system.
Ur the only one I saw purging the fill hose Good job and advice The company should use u on how to do this correctly EVERYONE says that fill tube is minuscule U did the air evacuation the correct way CHEERS MERRY CHRISTMAS THANKS 🙏
Great video, as usual, man. The only thing that I would add is that I find that it's beneficial to place the coolant supply container higher than the fill point of the car. Helps it fill more completely. Also, it helps to _completely_ drain the cooling system. At my shop we specialize in Porsche where many of the models have the engine in the back of the vehicle. This means they have to pump coolant through lines underneath the car to the radiators up front and there is are many opportunities for air pockets to form. There are also several points that require hoses to be pulled off to drain out all of the coolant. Failure to do this causes incomplete filling and overheating on the test drive. Also, some Porsche's require a scan tool to run a function to help bleed the cooling system, so always check the repair information. Most cars do not have these kinds of issues, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
it definitely is worth mentioning. We also have Porsches here that we do the same exact procedure with.
SUBSTANTIAL Super Mario Diagnostics
Sharing what you know with us Thank you very much Super Mario Diagnostics
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
If the vehicle can sit overnight or 8 hrs or so, i always prefer that. I have topped off after test drive and letting cool off, but check overflow/degas the next morning and its a pint to a quart low. But of course you don't always have that luxury or time. Good video man and good job on finding the leak. I love that tool myself!!
Thanks...nice tips on pulling vac before tightening and filling hose.
Awesome video! The weight at the bottom of supply hose is a great idea that I will now implement myself , thanks!! One thing I did notice I do differently is turn the vehicle ignition on and set temperature control to hot and fan speed on Incase of any temperature control valve in the heater hose. I can’t take credit for that idea though as it was isn’t the instructions of my air lift , lol. Keep it up!
2:04 & 6:58 Best advices on this video.
Thanks a lot!
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the info and video sir. Just bought one myself but i don’t believe i got my car drained as good as you did.
Hi Super Mario, an amazing video on all the steps to using this tool, the BEST I've ever seen. I purchased the exact same tool and followed all of your steps to the letter. I have 1 question. After i completed the vacuum part , I opened the valve to allow the new coolant to start filling the system but NOTHING HAPPENED to allow the coolant to start filling the system. This was done on a 2018 5.0l mustang. Do you have any ideas WHY THIS HAPPENED? I would appreciate your advice and feedback. 😢😢😢
Great video! Thanks for sharing
I just purchased one of these kits, because I’ve been trying to bleed the air out of my Acura ILX, for 3 days, and I’m still getting bubbles. Hopefully this will fix the issue? Great video 👍
Vaccum fill is an awesome tool. Use it every day.
great job just goes to show only when hot leaks amazing
Awesome kit you use!! I use the snappy one , it amazing especially for the hard to bleed systems and I do the same I test drive 5 to 10 miles and recheck for top off. Big big help on Camaro's
Thanks brother, great deal. The snappy is a nice tool, very neat
Truth!!!!! Camaro's are a real treat without this tool!
Pretty cool tool, especially for the price. A coworker of mine turned me on to the Matco one and I love it. No more filler funnel and waiting for bubbles to stop in the old school coolant funnels that screw on the radiators! Also, I'm stealing your weight idea, as well as priming the filler hose. I never thought about small amount of air making that much of a difference. The directions on mine didn't say to do that, but it makes total sense.
Good tips on finding the coolant leaks too!
Voted for ya dude
Filler funnel is still nice to have here and there 😉
AWSOME! Demonstration, great info 👍
Awesome video bro very well explained. I like to make sure my thermostat opens, and fan turns on before I test drive if possible then after a good test drive I let it set for a few hours top it off drive it again double check my work and ship it.
That tool or similar is required equipment if you work on VWs or Audis. It is nearly impossible to get all the air out of the heater core without the airlift. The vehicle may run fine and the engine temp will be normal, but there will be no heat in the car because of an air pocket in the heater core. Thanks for the video and tips.
Thanks bud! Exactly why I bought it!
Great stuff Mario. I was looking for a link to the tool in the description
Interesting. I've never used one of these. How much do you typically have to add after filling with the tool? Have you ever had the vacuum cause issues components of the cooling system? I'm imagining it cracking brittle plastic barbs or sucking in RTV from a fresh gasket. But I suppose those things are all rated for pressure, so vacuum is really no different.
I'd say usually about 4 ounces(thinking of an 8 oz cup).
I've yet to have any issues using this tool
Thanks for watching buddy
30 in Hg is equivalent to 14.7 psi so, if it’ll hold pressure @15psi, it should survive vacuum to 30in Hg.
@@PaulyD0859 This is true. However, the weird thing is that sometimes an o-ring or gasket will fail under pressure, but survive just fine under vacuum. Or vice versa. I've seen O-rings fail that way more than once, especially those that are exposed to years and years of pressure in one direction, and then suddenly subjected to a reverse flow.
You guys are lucky to live in USA 🇺🇸, we here in Australia get screwed by the government, then businesses and individuals. Everything here costs at least 3 times of what you pay in the USA 🇺🇸.
Thanks Mario, have a great Christmas
Thank you Steve, Merry Christmas
Gone are the days of using a garden hose to fill a radiator. But I don't mind buying a tool if it does the job correctly. Now with this video I have no reason to fail. :)
Nice demo Mario. I was just thinking yesterday I need a coolant vacuum tool. Merry Christmas to you.
Merry Christmas buddy
I always look forward to your videos. A very nice presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Andrew!
Great video Mario! I love schwaben products.
I have this tool but never thought about priming the tool good tip. I might have to redo this on my s13 as it keeps overheating even after doing this.
Fantastic video on this tool. Thanks
Thank you Mario. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thanks Billy, Merry Christmas
Thanks Mario, another great learning video. Happy holidays.
Thanks bud! Happy holidays!
Really good video with the OEM coolant tool. Is it possible to explain how to alter the tool to also pressurize the system as you stated at the beginning?
Super. Great teaching!
What if we use the tool to vacate the anti-freeze is that alright to do? Versus draining and collecting from the petcock valve.
Great video very helpful! Thank you!
Good idea on the weight. Thanks for the tip
Thanks Steven!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics good luck on the contest.
Hello Super Mario!
I bought this device and have a few dumb questions.
1. Should i drain all the coolant out first before using the device or this device can drain the coolant through the vacuum?
2. Can this device vacuum all the coolant out of the engine? Or should I have to do something first like warm up the engine before?
3. What is the pressure in the compressor before I hook it up on the airvac refiner?
Great video. Thank you in advance for your help!!!
This will not pull all of the coolant out. You'll first have to drain the coolant. The device is made to handle the output pressure of your shop air
Good video, Mario. I had the snap on version, that I probably paid 3 times for. And for the most part, I only used one brand of coolant with it. But I never cleaned mine out and the coolant ended up drying and damaging it.
So yes, like you said, make sure you're cleaning it afterwards!
Ouch that's a shame. This is a great option for the coin 👍 thanks for swinging by Pat
Hello Mario, I replaced water pump on my 2010 Fusion hybrid and now car is overheating, heater blowing cold air, do I vaccum both coolant fill reservoir ( EV and gas motor) thanks
Just did a Chevy Volt battery pack. Vacuum evac is required on batt cooling system,while GDS 2 does system bleed pulsing coolant pump.Takes about an hour.
Thanks for watching and sharing John, happy holidays bud
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Merry Christmas Mario! Wish you well in the new year!
The first vacuum filler I got was a universal type like that with the rubber plug, but the ones that use the pressure test adapters are way better. The Cornwell one is the best. You have to have adapters for every car, but it's not really that many. Most techs have their own pressure testers and fillers, but I actually feel like it should be the shop's responsibility to buy the master kit for adapters. It's really expensive and we already have to buy so many tools.
I bought this kit way before I got to this shop. One of the reasons I came over here was because of the shop owners willingness to provide whatever we need. I'll keep an eye out for the cornwell kit since I have a thing where I just gotta have my own 😆 thanks for watching bud
I got a kit off Amazon that comes with about 2 dozen adapters, a pressure pump and the vacuum filler for $120. Then, I added the Astro Pneumatic pressure tester that works off shop air. I’ve used it hundreds of times without issue.
@@PaulyD0859 The Cornwell kit was about $165, about $100 cheaper than the Snap-On one, but if the Amazon one is good, can you link it so I can tell other guys in the shop what to get?
It's good to support local tool dealers and American companies, but no one is out there trying to make sure techs are bringing home a living wage. We have to get the best tools at the best prices.
If you search Amazon for the term “28 piece radiator pressure tester” a bunch will pop up. Prices vary but they all look the same to me. I paid $120 for mine. I like the selection of exact fit caps and the vacuum filler works great.
If you’re interested, I’ve also got the Astro Pneumatic 7856 air powered pressure tester that fits the radiator cap adapters. It’s quick and I like that I can pressure test a cooling system without having to fill it first or pump my arm off to make pressure.
Great vid thank you, just two points, thanks for dealing with any coolant left in that won't drain out (no-one else seems to) 2) How does it pull coolant/vacuum past the thermostat? Thanks
Pulls from both sides of the thermostat
What psi should be at the compressor VS the psi at the top of the tool gauge? I tested a similar tool but I never saw the heater core lines compress only the bigger lines at the radiator and pressure help at 24psi. Makes me wonder is the thermostat never opened.. thx
Thanks Mario
Place the bucket ontop of the engine, makes it easier then at the end dont clear the line use it as a syphon to top it off! Works awsome that way
Great tip, thanks bud 👍
Very nice video Thank you. I know you posted the video in 2019 , and you did a great job being detailed about all steps. Someone asked you about the modification you did for pressurizing and either you missed the question or didn’t wish to respond. I am wondering if the modification included adding a 1/4” female/female/male 180 degree valve ahead of the Venturi system?
Best,
I must've missed it. I did use a 180 valve. And changed the gauge to include both vacuum and pressure. But i eventually stopped using that to pressirize the system, and stuck to the dedicated coolant pressure tester
Thank you for the reply. You’re a true gentlemen!
Thanks!
Good job. I have the same tool.
That was a great video, very informative. I put a Subaru 2.5 NA SOHC motor in my 71 VW Fastback and haven’t been able to get the air out even with the vacuum tool. You explained how to prime the line and I think that’s where I have been doing things wrong? Definitely going to prime the line next time. Could I be doing anything else wrong? Thank man!!!
If you do everything in this video to the t, and it still has air, id suspect an extremely small head gasket leak and would do testing to confirm.
Super Mario Diagnostics I just had this engine rebuilt by a good shop and I’d be really bummed if it were a head gasket leak. I modified my Airlift vacuum tool to be able to prime the line like yours and did as you said in your video. I ran the car at idle until the fans came on and the temp kept climbing and I had to shut it down. I have a funnel mounted to my radiator and when I shut it down I had some good size bubbles come out so I feel that’s promising??? Are there test strips or something to determine whether I have a gasket problem? Thank you for responding to my questions, that means a lot!!!!
Yes that would be the "block test"
I have better methods but that may involve equipment that many won't have. But s block test should at least get you going in the right direction
Voting for you. Hope you win....
i fucking love this video man, i feel way more comfortable about doing this myself! thank you!
good job thanks 🤠
Great video
if i just replaced a thermostat and the radiator is full do i have to drain the radiator to do the vacuum fill?
Should the bleeder valve be opened during this procedure?
Can you make a video of you using that to pressure test a system and also how you made it
Need to mention one big key feature of this tool. Gauge on top. Can pull a vacuum and watch to see if it drop the vac and if it does you have a leak. This has saved my butt many times. I get pulled away from the car. And forget to tighten a hose clamp. Or a gasket didn't sea. All without oone once of coolant lost.
Yes i mentioned that in the video
We test drive and recheck as well. We park cars and leave hoods up to remind everyone
Good tip bud 👍 thanks for watching and sharing
Do you have heater on heat mode before you shut vehicle off to pull vaccum on cooling system?
Not necessarily, but during my test drive afterwards i do turn on the heater to the floor
so i need to drain the coolant first before pulling vacuum? i can't just use the tool to drain the coolant too?
One thing you do have to keep in mind is cracking or pulling a seal in on radiator side or top tanks on rads or cores with age when using the vacuum fill. Sometimes you should break out the big funnel if things are looking iffy.
Mind you, this is intended mainly for vehicles that the manufacturer requires you to fill this way. Can't say that's happened to me though!
Cool name by the way
I’d say, if things look iffy you ought to be selling those parts. If there’s a chance they’re going to fail in the shop, they WILL fail on the road.
@@PaulyD0859 normally you'd do that, but calling back a customer who has no money to sell them a radiator cause it sucked in and popped sucks. Radiators are really designed to be pressurized, so an older rad that isn't leaking may be after vacuum filling it.
30 in Hg = 14.7 psi
excellent
Good vid
Did you have to use a pry bar on the frame to push the motor a bit to make room for the water pump to come out? Lol I've done a few of those and that's the only way I've been able to do it. Great video btw
Lol no I removed the crank pulley
Thanks bud!
Para ello se requiere una bomba de vacío vd? De cuantos caballos ?
i use one too, they are great.
That they are, thanks for watching!
Voting for you too win.....
Can I remove all the old antifreeze with this? I can only drain 4 of 13 quarts from the radiator drain. Thanks
This isn't a coolant recovery system. Only a vacuum fill system. Much like an ac system that goes into vacuum before refilling it
Ok thanks.
Why my vacuum needle never go above 20% but when i turn off the air feed i have no decay?
Out of curiosity, would a home compressor have enough of a tank to use one of these? :)
Unlikely
Stupid question, if I want to take the coolant that’s actually now inside the system, can I use this tool to , like to pull old one/push new one?
You have to drain the old coolant manually. But if it is clean and fresh, yes, you could use this system to refill the system with the old coolant if you want.
can this be done with coolant in the system or do you need to fully drain it first before doing this?
This will not extract coolant from the system. This will only vacuum the system then refill. The system doesn't have to be fully drained to use. The idea is to get all of the air to the top
You mention that your gauge is inaccurate ? are you concerned you may be pulling too much vacuum on the system with unregulated shop air and stressing hoses etc...
How do I use this tool without an expansion tank? All I have is a radiator, with a plastic overflow tank.
Direct to radiator filler
Does the thermostat open under this conditon?
Just confirming - it's air blowing into the device but due to the valve construction it ends up creating a vacuum?
It's a venturi device that uses compressed air to create vacuum, correct
gracias
I use my vacuum filler on every single coolant related repair I can. So much faster that trying to bleed it out any other way.
This is the exact same procedure i use in motorcycle radiator service.
Just wondering. Would the pulse sensor show vacuum on the cooling system ?
I've yet to see a vacuum reading on a cooling system pulse
Great explanation! But I must say that air hose has seen better days lol
😂
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics 🤣🤣
Is it best to hook up the unit to the radiator fill hole or the overfill tank?
Radiator
The only thing I noticed that you didn't do what some other shops advise which is to turn on the ignition and activate the heater during the vacuum procedure to make sure the heater core is also getting purged, maybe this one didn't need it? Just wondering.
Can you use this to drain a full cooling system like qhen your making a repair instead of draining from bottom of radiator? Also what's the link for this tool?
No that won't do that. I don't think a tool exists that will do that from the filler neck.
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics so if i was to pull a vacuum on a full cooling system wouldn't the coolant come out the blow off tube..until the system reached full vacuum?
Only some, a minimal amount. There is no tool that will do that for a cooling system at the moment
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics damn thought I could beat the system lol do you have a link for this tool?
@@albertsautodiagnosticsllc2130 You would never remove all the coolant from the vehicle's cooling system doing it that way. These types of tools are NOT designed to be a shortcut for draining the coolant system. In fact, in their user manuals, every single manufacturer specifically that you remove as much coolant as possible from the vehicle prior to evacuation, as the tool's efficiency drops markedly once coolant reaches the device.
Try turning key on engine off and turn heat on low