This Old Tony, my thanks to all of you.., I am in china, but I am not from china.... I thought you don’t watch TH-cam videos, I also enjoy your videos. Two years ago I have not real knowledge about cnc, and now I have 3 machines , I have learnt some g code and metal working thanks to a bunch of you that also seem to be friends, nyc, old Tony. Eve, smarter everyday, the g code tutor, haas tips of the day, the older guy from suburban tools, and a few more machinist and lately Stefan and other great people sharing.. I live and work in China, but I am from Honduras, and a lot of the learning about machines and metals have been via TH-cam. Now I start to share what I can, also. my Chanel is with my name. Take care and thank you all for your great work.
I have been cutting chips for a living since Sept. of '75'. (still at it) That sir, is a fine piece of kit. I would be proud to pull that out of my box and use. That fine adjustment is probably as smooth as you will find. Thanks for sharing it.
There are three types of tools: cheap Chinese, expensive Swiss (or other) and self made. The last is of course the best. You have totally opened my eyes when it comes to self made tooling. As a beginner, there is so many things on my wish list with regards to tools, and at the same time I am in need of projects. What better projects than to make your own tools? I have followed you for some time now Stefan, and almost every one of your videos is a build project for a great tool. Some might be a bit advanced for a beginner, but many are great learning projects. I just made your "better threading gage" from way back, and its my first "real" project where I actually make something useful. Thanks for all your great videos Stefan, you are a great inspiration to me an probably many others. BTW. I found that the "Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook", that I discovered in one of your earlier videos, is also available in English. I purchased it directly from the publisher some time ago. Its a Great reference book. www.europa-lehrmittel.de/suche-0/quick_search?search_term=1910X
Wonderful video Stefan...! I learned 3 things from your video. One, the hardness testing files. Two, the air hardening tool steel. Three, the blackening compound. Very useful information. Thank you very much...! Cheers, Daniel.
Hello Stefan, here from China,, I am from Honduras (pero) but I work here with some factories, and I am constantly learning from videos online, I came across your videos a few days ago from NYC CNC, , good work. I really appreciate the work and organization of the Germans, Thanks for your time to share your knowledge.
Thx for the inspiration. I’ll have to use your spring steel hinge idea and use of ball bearings. And I gasped as I couldn’t stop you breaking the end mill. Been there before.
I really love the design and the remarkable attention that you always have in your work. Didn't know about you site, I will read it all, I really love the section with your resurces! Can't wait to see the next project!
Thanks Stephan, the ideas you share are always interesting and the results always have "...a hint of precision", LOL! I really appreciate you showing us your methodology and set-ups, that is an area that helps me to learn a great deal. Your videos always stimulate my imagination and lead me to draw up all sorts of crazy stuff. I don't think you can teach creativity in the design process, and I believe everyone who thinks mechanically should have their own ideas and designs. However, the framework you share provides an excellent skeleton for any project one could dream up, and the tips concerning order of operation are priceless. Thanks Again, Aloha...Chuck
Super build. Watching your videos raises the bar each time. Humble efforts here seem not to be dampened by your expertise, but inspired by them. I suppose we are all humbled by striving for perfection. Thanks for sharing. Much enjoyed here.
Terrific Video Stefan, just when I think I can't be anymore amazed at your precise immaculate work, you post another piece of your art.. thank you for encouraging all of us to be more than we begin as.
Such a pleasure watching you creating such beautiful precision gear. So far from the sort of thing I do in my workshop so Im pleased you actually showed how this comparator is used. Just so you understand my ignorance on this subject, my flat surface is a large piece of polished marble. Better than nothing and equal to anything instruments I have.
I can't wait to finish my machining school! Thanks for sharing your work and the knowledge that goes along with it! I've already been able to use it on some of my projects.
Stef, a tool maker friend of mine recommended using Crisco (vegetable shortening) as a grinding lubricant for grinding hardened steel. He says it's the best and cheapest alternative to wet grinding. I have not tried it yet but I trust his experience.
Very nice work. I feel your pain when it comes to lost video. It has happened to me plenty of times. Mostly form the cards going bad or a hard drive going down. It especially sucks when there is little chance of a re shoot. It happened to us while poring our castings and there was no time or money to redo those shots. Keep it up Stefan! And I'll keep watching. Best Matt
As always, your precision approach is just awesome. Lovely work. Milling that small dovetail for the indicator holder must have been quite difficult. May have missed that bit. Like the convenient hardness check. Seems to work well.
I made a tiny carbide dovetailcutter - Worked without much trouble, I have some pictures of the dovetail cutter in the link down in the description :) Thank you for watching!
How did you hold the knob when you turned it down? Did you thread a piece of metal bigger than the end and hold that? I bet I know who gave you the thumbs down.
Hi Stefan another great film and great attention to detail as usual, I look forward to the next one, one thing I keep meaning to ask you is what is the make of your power scraper you have I remember watching your film on the straight edge you did for your friend, I keep looking for one but I've had no look so far then I remembered you had something different to a Biax and it seamed pretty good, any info would be good, keep the films coming.
Is there some reason you did not mount the curved bumper on the comparator base plate and machine the assembly as one? You could even grind the curve with a Dremel-type stone on the mill. Guess you should pivot on the axis of the column. Thanks for showing how it is done, I saw TOT with one and wondered how it was made. Wonderful sliding mount for the DTI, someone with a eye and touch for ergonomics is rare. Well done!
LOL, has dead fish in it, good one Stefan. As always over the top on design and machining. I like that very much. There's a few square checking bases around a bit like yours and they use the spring steel sheet metal as a hinge for the fine adjust.But its on the base. All of them are well over $200. I think yours is a much better design.
Yeah, I did my research on those square checking bases - I didnt like the hinge at the bottom, I think its better to have it close to the measuring tool for more sensitivity. Be aware of the dead fish!
Nicely done, something that's been on my list of to do or to find stuff, need longer days. Did a lot of hardening and heat treatment, still need to try the air hardening, just that I find it less predictable for the final hardness.
As always you are doing excellent job. It will be nice if make a video comparing the cheap Chinese dial indicators with the expensive one's. Thanks again.
Hello Stefan, I'm thinking about making a surface gauge & squareness comparator and going over various designs I can find online. I was wondering if there are specific advantages to having the flexure / fine adjust in the base (e.g. Hermann Schmidt MG-1) vs having it on the dial indicator clamp like yours. I managed to find an archive of your linked blog post, might be helpful to starters like me if the link was active on your site. I can't seem to find the old blog posts on your new wiki. Thanks for making these videos, hope you had a wonderful Christmas. Happy 2023.
Hi! I think the position of the flexture is a bit depending on personal taste. I did it that way, because i liked the design. If i built another one, I would replicate something like Herman Schmidts base, just to get a comparisation :) As for the links/website, well, thats a work in progress :\
You might consider getting some aluminum flashing like the kind used in HVAC ducting. It can be bought at any hardware store in the states. I would assume it is readily available there as well. I use it for the same things i see you use copper and brass shim stock for. If a precision shim is not needed the aluminum flashing is a lot easier on the wallet.
Great work Stefan, Just an idea: could the bumper not alternatively be made in the lathe together with stand and column - already mounted. That should always give You the perfect radius in reference to the column.
Oh yes, You're right - my bad. Thinking about it again, I see that You need a unique reference point, but the bumper does not necessarily have to follow the radius of the column. A smaller "nose" would do as well.
It is not as critical as I also first thought when seeking a minimum distance while making a sweep, but I assume it is good practice to have the indicator as perpendicular to the work as possible to remove lateral forces/friction, etc. Having an identical curve on the bumper would assure that. I wonder how much of an error that might cause in practice.
Great project! Thanks for posting it. I assume the leaf spring is used for more accuracy, as compared to a pivot? (a pivot will have some clearance). Or is it used for ease of manufacturing?
As always, another excellent video. I love watching your work. I noticed your bench vise. I am wondering what make it is. My father was a watchmaker and he had a vise very much like that. his was about a quarter of the size. I would like to get one like yours. Can you tell me what brand it is? I think his was a Boley. That's what brand his lathe was. It might have been a Bergeon. There are no markings on it, but I can tell you that it is of extremely high quality. He purchased it in 1937 and it is still like new. Thank you for all that you do.
Great work. How did you decide on the radius for the front bumper? So I'm not the only guy who snaps endmills by crashing them into things! :-) cheers to you for not editing that out!
I didnt - This tool is meant to be set to zero on a master square for each use/height/setup. Thats more reliable than trying to make the vertical shaft be dead straight and keep the head vom rotating while going up/down.
As usual, Stefan puts his engineering prowess on display for all to marvel at. I certainly did. However, I don't understand the purpose of the round buffer squareness comparators always have at the front. If the vertical bar that supports the dial indicator were to be mounted in an accurately ground steel or granite block with a straight, square front *without* a rounded buffer, why wouldn't that work? I'm clearly missing something fundamental about the math here. I understand that even a ball bearing would do the job, albeit a bit less conveniently. Can anyone explain the necessity for the round front bumper?
Oh a flat front would totaly work, but it would average out the surface if the vertical surface of the part was not perfectly flat. Sometimes you want that, sometimes you dont want that. A ball bearing ball would work too, but the small radius results in a very small anglechange to find the highspot - It feels more precise (and probably is), when the radius is bigger and you have a larger angle to sweep..
If you are using that bag of ball bearings you bought a few videos ago, you are sure getting good mileage out of them! Hmmm Apologies if I got your episodes out order. TH-cam is parsimonious with their date info.
your messy workbench gives me the horrors. tidy that up! otherwise, thats beautiful job. It raises the bar for tool builds AGAIN, so ill have to just try harder. thanks for another great video!
I wonder if there is a rosebud tip for those small torches. Rosebud = tip with flat front and a group of holes for the combustible mixture to flow from. (LOTS of heat)
You are right to go with four feet, three feet are only needed on rough, or uneven, surfaces not surface plates, after all you are not building a milking stool.
You said you lost the video clips of most of the project which would be very interested to watch, if you did not format the drive your footage should still on the drive under a different name, if you remember the date and time you created the video you can find it.
I don't understand how these work. Hopefully this vid will help with that. I don't understand how a rounded edge let's you measure flat surfaces for comparison.
I always wonder how stable is the fine tune with steel spring and screw is.. if you can say i would appreciate.. like when measuring with this device another test indicator is put on this test indicator to see if it is displaced during measurement.. if so it means the reading will have error
Hi mate. Wonderful as always. I would like to see the "mundane" stuff as well. It might be not very interesting to you but I find work holding fascinating. Shame that you lost so much of what you recorded, you might want to think about a master that will only be erased when all work is done. I don't know how editing software works, but you must be able to copy and paste, instead of cut and past, right? That way the Master copy will always stay unmolested. allegedly ;o)>
What grinder or method do you use to remove most of the stock material of a steel ball prior to reaching the desired size? I suppose you finish it with the surface grinder, but there's plenty of materials to remove before, eh?
One of the things I've noticed about beginning a new hobby is that you learn some things as The Truth, and don't have room for nuance or gray areas. So, please forgive me for really, really wanting this to have three feet. I should make a poor man's copy of this to satisfy that urge!
A question regarding machinist squares with base. Is the upper surface of the base square to the longer arm to the same tolerances as the squareness of the arms to each other?
Stefan, I'm now getting around to making one of these. I think your (and Brian's) design looks great. I'm now drawing up my version in CAD. I noticed that the link to the project notes on gtwr.de no longer works, but luckily I had previously saved a copy. I also found the discussion at forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=24193 in case anyone else is interested. The google translation to English from German works OK, barely. :) I'll let you know when I finish mine. I'm currently shopping for a surface grinder, but I will probably be done before I find one.
(rigid tapping) -- "You want to be careful [bottoming out] .. I stay away... 0.5 mm"
You're my hero, Stefan.
Haha, yeah, thats plenty of clearance - You can see on the dial how slow it moves down.. :)
They have pills for that now.
Hey Tony you should make a video of you making me one of those :)
By hand you can do that, but driving a tap with machine at that speed....my goodness me!
This Old Tony, my thanks to all of you.., I am in china, but I am not from china.... I thought you don’t watch TH-cam videos, I also enjoy your videos. Two years ago I have not real knowledge about cnc, and now I have 3 machines , I have learnt some g code and metal working thanks to a bunch of you that also seem to be friends, nyc, old Tony. Eve, smarter everyday, the g code tutor, haas tips of the day, the older guy from suburban tools, and a few more machinist and lately Stefan and other great people sharing.. I live and work in China, but I am from Honduras, and a lot of the learning about machines and metals have been via TH-cam. Now I start to share what I can, also. my Chanel is with my name. Take care and thank you all for your great work.
Quote of the day .......... ‘That is a sign of a hint of precision. (33.12)’. And that is why we watch Stefan. Thank you sir.
I have been cutting chips for a living since Sept. of '75'. (still at it) That sir, is a fine piece of kit. I would be proud to pull that out of my box and use. That fine adjustment is probably as smooth as you will find. Thanks for sharing it.
There are three types of tools: cheap Chinese, expensive Swiss (or other) and self made. The last is of course the best. You have totally opened my eyes when it comes to self made tooling. As a beginner, there is so many things on my wish list with regards to tools, and at the same time I am in need of projects. What better projects than to make your own tools? I have followed you for some time now Stefan, and almost every one of your videos is a build project for a great tool. Some might be a bit advanced for a beginner, but many are great learning projects. I just made your "better threading gage" from way back, and its my first "real" project where I actually make something useful.
Thanks for all your great videos Stefan, you are a great inspiration to me an probably many others.
BTW. I found that the "Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook", that I discovered in one of your earlier videos, is also available in English. I purchased it directly from the publisher some time ago. Its a Great reference book. www.europa-lehrmittel.de/suche-0/quick_search?search_term=1910X
I've watched a few videos on the construction of these, yours is by far the simplest design to brilliant effect
Wonderful video Stefan...! I learned 3 things from your video. One, the hardness testing files. Two, the air hardening tool steel. Three, the blackening compound. Very useful information. Thank you very much...! Cheers, Daniel.
Hello Stefan, here from China,, I am from Honduras (pero) but I work here with some factories, and I am constantly learning from videos online, I came across your videos a few days ago from NYC CNC, , good work. I really appreciate the work and organization of the Germans, Thanks for your time to share your knowledge.
Excellent design Stefan, the spring steel fine adjust is genius!
Thx for the inspiration. I’ll have to use your spring steel hinge idea and use of ball bearings. And I gasped as I couldn’t stop you breaking the end mill. Been there before.
I really love the design and the remarkable attention that you always have in your work. Didn't know about you site, I will read it all, I really love the section with your resurces! Can't wait to see the next project!
Thank you! Glad you like the site too :)
Thanks Stephan, the ideas you share are always interesting and the results always have "...a hint of precision", LOL! I really appreciate you showing us your methodology and set-ups, that is an area that helps me to learn a great deal. Your videos always stimulate my imagination and lead me to draw up all sorts of crazy stuff.
I don't think you can teach creativity in the design process, and I believe everyone who thinks mechanically should have their own ideas and designs. However, the framework you share provides an excellent skeleton for any project one could dream up, and the tips concerning order of operation are priceless.
Thanks Again, Aloha...Chuck
You always do the most remarkable work. Precise and very nice in appearance as well. Keep on keeping on.
Super build. Watching your videos raises the bar each time. Humble efforts here seem not to be dampened by your expertise, but inspired by them. I suppose we are all humbled by striving for perfection. Thanks for sharing. Much enjoyed here.
Terrific Video Stefan, just when I think I can't be anymore amazed at your precise immaculate work, you post another piece of your art.. thank you for encouraging all of us to be more than we begin as.
Thank you :)
Nice work! I like the rigidity and absence of unnecessary joints. thanks for sharing.
Another fine tutorial from a top quality engineer
Thanks :)
Such a pleasure watching you creating such beautiful precision gear. So far from the sort of thing I do in my workshop so Im pleased you actually showed how this comparator is used. Just so you understand my ignorance on this subject, my flat surface is a large piece of polished marble. Better than nothing and equal to anything instruments I have.
Excellent Stefan. Great project. You make some of the best video's on the net'. regards from the UK
You gotta love that stuff with the dead fish in it, it is always better than the rest. Very nice job! Thanks for the video, CJ
Another epic project, great design and workmanship!
I can't wait to finish my machining school! Thanks for sharing your work and the knowledge that goes along with it! I've already been able to use it on some of my projects.
Good on ya, mate! Do you use CNCs mainly, or have plenty of opportunity to work on manual machines also?
So I'm watching and thinking "I'd probably run that expensive looking carbide end mill into the parallel and bust it". I feel your pain.
Another very helpful video. Really like The usage of ball bearings for hard surfaces. I will be using that idea on my projects thanks.
Me too, and everything I scrap gets searched for ball-bearings to incorporate in projects :)
I cant throw away ball bearing balls - They are just way to nice :D
Thanks! I got the idea with the balls that get ground down from Tom Lipton - But he even used carbide balls.
I really like your design on this project. I might have to make one.
Thank you Dale!
Get it on, its a good project for a couple of rainy sundays :)
love the shape and design
Good video Stefan, the comparator finished up really nice with the blackened finish. Great smooth action with those balls, cheers!
Very good idea on the hardened area with the ball bearing for the screw, good one there Stephan. I can see other uses for this idea, thank you.
Stef, a tool maker friend of mine recommended using Crisco (vegetable shortening) as a grinding lubricant for grinding hardened steel. He says it's the best and cheapest alternative to wet grinding. I have not tried it yet but I trust his experience.
Interesting, never thought of that - I am going to try that!
Use Flora margarine instead. It's lower in saturated fat.
Stefan Gotteswinter how well did the shortening work for grinding? I don't think I've seen you used it, but may have missed it.
I am only sorry that some video got lost. Wonderful video, and some neat stuff with the ball bearing surface.
Nice Stefan - I always like your videos and your search for perfections :) Keep up the good work.
22:10
You could use rotary table on surface grinder for grinding by the side of the wheel. Much safer and save you some endmills
Very nice work. I feel your pain when it comes to lost video. It has happened to me plenty of times. Mostly form the cards going bad or a hard drive going down. It especially sucks when there is little chance of a re shoot. It happened to us while poring our castings and there was no time or money to redo those shots. Keep it up Stefan! And I'll keep watching.
Best Matt
As always, your precision approach is just awesome. Lovely work.
Milling that small dovetail for the indicator holder must have been quite difficult. May have missed that bit.
Like the convenient hardness check. Seems to work well.
I made a tiny carbide dovetailcutter - Worked without much trouble, I have some pictures of the dovetail cutter in the link down in the description :)
Thank you for watching!
Love the passion that you put in what you do!
How did you hold the knob when you turned it down? Did you thread a piece of metal bigger than the end and hold that?
I bet I know who gave you the thumbs down.
Excellent job! Well done Stefan. Bravo!
Thank you for another well made and interesting video!
Regards, Matthew
Hi Stefan another great film and great attention to detail as usual, I look forward to the next one, one thing I keep meaning to ask you is what is the make of your power scraper you have I remember watching your film on the straight edge you did for your friend, I keep looking for one but I've had no look so far then I remembered you had something different to a Biax and it seamed pretty good, any info would be good, keep the films coming.
Nice job Stefan. The bluing looks great!
Another top notch build Stefan
Is there some reason you did not mount the curved bumper on the comparator base plate and machine the assembly as one? You could even grind the curve with a Dremel-type stone on the mill. Guess you should pivot on the axis of the column. Thanks for showing how it is done, I saw TOT with one and wondered how it was made.
Wonderful sliding mount for the DTI, someone with a eye and touch for ergonomics is rare. Well done!
LOL, has dead fish in it, good one Stefan. As always over the top on design and machining. I like that very much. There's a few square checking bases around a bit like yours and they use the spring steel sheet metal as a hinge for the fine adjust.But its on the base. All of them are well over $200. I think yours is a much better design.
Yeah, I did my research on those square checking bases - I didnt like the hinge at the bottom, I think its better to have it close to the measuring tool for more sensitivity.
Be aware of the dead fish!
Very nice project Stefan. Thanks for posting.
Bob
Great attention to detail.
Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing.
Nicely done, something that's been on my list of to do or to find stuff, need longer days.
Did a lot of hardening and heat treatment, still need to try the air hardening, just that I find it less predictable for the final hardness.
Thanks!
Yeah, with my makeshift setup the airhardening is total unpredictable...
As always you are doing excellent job. It will be nice if make a video comparing the cheap Chinese dial indicators with the expensive one's. Thanks again.
Hello Stefan, I'm thinking about making a surface gauge & squareness comparator and going over various designs I can find online. I was wondering if there are specific advantages to having the flexure / fine adjust in the base (e.g. Hermann Schmidt MG-1) vs having it on the dial indicator clamp like yours. I managed to find an archive of your linked blog post, might be helpful to starters like me if the link was active on your site. I can't seem to find the old blog posts on your new wiki.
Thanks for making these videos, hope you had a wonderful Christmas. Happy 2023.
Hi!
I think the position of the flexture is a bit depending on personal taste. I did it that way, because i liked the design. If i built another one, I would replicate something like Herman Schmidts base, just to get a comparisation :)
As for the links/website, well, thats a work in progress :\
@@StefanGotteswinter thanks mate, appreciate the quick response. I'm going try the MG-1 design and see how I go.
Very nice project. Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Randy!
Thank you sir, very nice to learn some new things from such an impressive project.
Cheers from California
You might consider getting some aluminum flashing like the kind used in HVAC ducting. It can be bought at any hardware store in the states. I would assume it is readily available there as well. I use it for the same things i see you use copper and brass shim stock for. If a precision shim is not needed the aluminum flashing is a lot easier on the wallet.
33:15: The good ol' vacuum cleaner Vorwerk Tiger 250? At least one tool that we have in common 😀
Great work Stefan,
Just an idea: could the bumper not alternatively be made in the lathe together with stand and column - already mounted. That should always give You the perfect radius in reference to the column.
Thats right, I think Chuck/Outsidescrewball has done it that way. But the radius of the bumper does not need to match the distance to the column :)
Oh yes, You're right - my bad. Thinking about it again, I see that You need a unique reference point, but the bumper does not necessarily have to follow the radius of the column. A smaller "nose" would do as well.
It is not as critical as I also first thought when seeking a minimum distance while making a sweep, but I assume it is good practice to have the indicator as perpendicular to the work as possible to remove lateral forces/friction, etc. Having an identical curve on the bumper would assure that. I wonder how much of an error that might cause in practice.
Great project! Thanks for posting it. I assume the leaf spring is used for more accuracy, as compared to a pivot? (a pivot will have some clearance). Or is it used for ease of manufacturing?
Awesome work!!
Thanks :)
As always, another excellent video. I love watching your work. I noticed your bench vise. I am wondering what make it is. My father was a watchmaker and he had a vise very much like that. his was about a quarter of the size. I would like to get one like yours. Can you tell me what brand it is? I think his was a Boley. That's what brand his lathe was. It might have been a Bergeon. There are no markings on it, but I can tell you that it is of extremely high quality. He purchased it in 1937 and it is still like new. Thank you for all that you do.
Very nice work Stefan
so nice! you could retire, making and selling these one-off Stefan Indicators!
Great work. How did you decide on the radius for the front bumper? So I'm not the only guy who snaps endmills by crashing them into things! :-) cheers to you for not editing that out!
love those ruby stones. $$$$$$$ ! wish I had the bucks!
Nice build Stefan! Have you used it much yet? If so, how do you like it?
Steve
Yes! I use it all the time when grinding parts and for scraping. It works very well with a 2/1000mm indicator :)
Nice work Stefan.
How did you ensure that the vertical shaft was straight up and down?
I didnt - This tool is meant to be set to zero on a master square for each use/height/setup.
Thats more reliable than trying to make the vertical shaft be dead straight and keep the head vom rotating while going up/down.
As usual, Stefan puts his engineering prowess on display for all to marvel at. I certainly did. However, I don't understand the purpose of the round buffer squareness comparators always have at the front. If the vertical bar that supports the dial indicator were to be mounted in an accurately ground steel or granite block with a straight, square front *without* a rounded buffer, why wouldn't that work? I'm clearly missing something fundamental about the math here. I understand that even a ball bearing would do the job, albeit a bit less conveniently. Can anyone explain the necessity for the round front bumper?
Oh a flat front would totaly work, but it would average out the surface if the vertical surface of the part was not perfectly flat. Sometimes you want that, sometimes you dont want that.
A ball bearing ball would work too, but the small radius results in a very small anglechange to find the highspot - It feels more precise (and probably is), when the radius is bigger and you have a larger angle to sweep..
Stefan you have built up a great workshop , how long have you been building it up and is it your work or hobby workshop?
A well built tool to be sure. Thanks for the video. Did you curse yourself when you broke the end mill? I had no idea they broke that easily.
If you are using that bag of ball bearings you bought a few videos ago, you are sure getting good mileage out of them! Hmmm Apologies if I got your episodes out order. TH-cam is parsimonious with their date info.
Thank you for sharing. So interesting. Well done!
Great design I love it!
Beautiful project!
your messy workbench gives me the horrors. tidy that up! otherwise, thats beautiful job. It raises the bar for tool builds AGAIN, so ill have to just try harder. thanks for another great video!
is your work bench any better?
no mine is way worse. lol. Stefan's is unbelievably tidy. lol
Great work. Have you ever used a magnetic cylindrical square? Like an old Murkens? ST makes one too, very $$$
Very nice work. I will have to try and copy your design.
Mike Gogeek
I wonder if there is a rosebud tip for those small torches. Rosebud = tip with flat front and a group of holes for the combustible mixture to flow from. (LOTS of heat)
You are right to go with four feet, three feet are only needed on rough, or uneven, surfaces not surface plates, after all you are not building a milking stool.
Very very nice. Thank u Stefan
I love your videos but I admit everytime I watch one I feel I am further behind on things I need to do. :-)
Dont worry :)
For every project that I finish, five other projects end up dying at the side of the road ;)
Very Nice gage Stefan! It should last a lifetime. Those damn carbide bits are not very forgiving ! Thanks for not editing it out.
What is the bumper radius? Great video. It come out very nice. I’m trying to make one myself. I need the radius.
The radius is super-non-critical, just make it look nice. Its probably about 60..80mm in radius, if I remember correctly.
a lapel microphone might help your audio.
What's wrong with his audio? Sounds fine here....
It's good, but could be even better.
sounds fine to me
Absolute quality !
You said you lost the video clips of most of the project which would be very interested to watch, if you did not format the drive your footage should still on the drive under a different name, if you remember the date and time you created the video you can find it.
I don't understand how these work. Hopefully this vid will help with that. I don't understand how a rounded edge let's you measure flat surfaces for comparison.
Stefan, I would think that the you would use the post between centers to make that Radius.
I always wonder how stable is the fine tune with steel spring and screw is.. if you can say i would appreciate.. like when measuring with this device another test indicator is put on this test indicator to see if it is displaced during measurement.. if so it means the reading will have error
Hi mate. Wonderful as always. I would like to see the "mundane" stuff as well. It might be not very interesting to you but I find work holding fascinating. Shame that you lost so much of what you recorded, you might want to think about a master that will only be erased when all work is done. I don't know how editing software works, but you must be able to copy and paste, instead of cut and past, right? That way the Master copy will always stay unmolested. allegedly ;o)>
Very nice job!
What grinder or method do you use to remove most of the stock material of a steel ball prior to reaching the desired size? I suppose you finish it with the surface grinder, but there's plenty of materials to remove before, eh?
Thank you Stefan
Top quality videos, the only thing I could complain about is dirty fingernails. Clean fingernails really raise the feel of a video.
Thanks!
This is a joke, right?
Nice work.
One of the things I've noticed about beginning a new hobby is that you learn some things as The Truth, and don't have room for nuance or gray areas. So, please forgive me for really, really wanting this to have three feet. I should make a poor man's copy of this to satisfy that urge!
Awesome vid man
A question regarding machinist squares with base. Is the upper surface of the base square to the longer arm to the same tolerances as the squareness of the arms to each other?
as always great stuff!
if you don't have a straight edge and super accurate square, how would you go about finding perfect square and straight?
I would make a cylindersquare - they are selfprooving and can be made with a lathe and a surfaceplate to proove it out.
and a straight edge?
Great work
your oven takes an hr to warm up???? lol. thats what i got out of this 3 years later.
a normal household oven usually takes 20mins to reach 200degrees Celsius
smaller Oven can be a bit quicker like 10minutes
Stefan, I'm now getting around to making one of these. I think your (and Brian's) design looks great. I'm now drawing up my version in CAD. I noticed that the link to the project notes on gtwr.de no longer works, but luckily I had previously saved a copy. I also found the discussion at forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=24193 in case anyone else is interested. The google translation to English from German works OK, barely. :) I'll let you know when I finish mine. I'm currently shopping for a surface grinder, but I will probably be done before I find one.
Hey Stefan, I noticed your machines are clean clean. No oil?