ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- ESOTERIC has been providing professional detailing services for over a decade, and during those years we've heard some crazy theories and logic when it comes to detailing techniques. Scratch-proof coating? Rotary VS. DA polishers? Pad priming? We are here to set the record straight on all of these topics and more (and have some fun while doing it). Top 5 detailing myths by Esoteric.
Video links:
Myth 1: • STOP using quick detai...
Myth 2: • Chemical vs. Mechanica...
Myth 3: • Still polishing with a...
Myth 4: • Are ceramic coatings s...
Myth 5: • DEBUNKING pad priming,...
ESOTERIC Products
www.esotericcarcare.com
Facebook and Instagram: @EsotericDetail, @EsotericProducts
New videos EVERY WEEK: bit.ly/2uFUJGy - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
If you're looking for more detailed information on how to be better at paint correction and ceramic coating, then check out our new ONLINE training at: www.esotericdetail.com/education
Its sad that alot of mobile detailers are selling this clay and seal packages not knowing they are scratching the paint.
Great content 👌
Either that, or they think that sealant durability is more important than a scratch-free finish.
There are a TON of people that do not have the money for a full blown ceramic coating and paint correction/enhancement. Their cars are already covered in swirls and scratches so as long as their paint feels smooth and there car is easier to clean in the future they don’t care about polishing. Most of them don’t even pay attention to swirls and scratches so they have no idea what has been caused by clay. Clay and seal is an option that customers want until they can afford a true coating.
@@23dothedew I find it an extreme rarity for somebody with badly scratched and swirled paint to care about it being "smooth or easy to clean".
@@Esotericdetail because you are detailing and correcting super cars obviously. Very expensive cars where people don’t have a budget they just want it as perfect as possible. The average mobile Detailer that is watching your channel is not servicing Ferraris and Porsches. A few are, but you can’t say that’s the majority.
@@23dothedew That's an incorrect assumption on your part. We work on everything, and we also have a dealer division as well. What you are describing is typically an agenda being pushed by the detailer, and not the consumer. If somebody is on a tight budget, they simply want it "clean". It's typically the detailer who will be trying to tell them that they need to clay the car to get rid of contaminants, and so that protectants might theoretically last longer. The responsible detailer will recommend against claying, despite the condition of the car, because of what it does to paint.
The biggest pitfall in Detailing now are the TH-cam Detailers making huge money out of spreading a lot of B.S just to sell a product or to Bankroll their own lifestyles!
Accurate comment. Same goes on in the dog training world . Sad. For as awesome as social media is , it's equally as Destructive.
@@dtcdtc8328 it’s a Shame as there’s some great Detailers around but the Pretentious Wankers aren’t helping their own cause.
And there's a Tonne of those UK Ton and not a US ton as the UK Tonne is heavier BTW 🤭). Basically, a shit load of TH-camrs claiming they have that answers....where in fact they probably don't have a Rhopoint iq meter and are just winging it without the proper readings or data to back there claims up. Anyway, I shouldn't dig into anything negative as its bad for yourself esteem. But worth pointing out though. Only a trusted TH-camrs have the right way of doing things like here obviously and Jon from Forensic Detailing channel- he's got a good approach to that kind of thing
@@detailerslife8127 agreed, thank God for Todd , always being honest since the first time I spoke to him almost 7 years ago now ( or is it 10 lol my gosh time flies!). I feel extremely fortunate for having reached out to him when I did with questions and he's not changed one bit since. So there's hope yet that you me Todd and others will Never sellout for the almighty dollar.
@@79blustone haha , good one on the "tonne".
It's our job to do as Todd is here , be honest when educating clients , friends and fellow car enthusiasts. I absolutely love Capitalism and despise crony capitalism . It's sad but Buyer Beware is a thing bc it needs to be.
Great information Todd. Thanks for the presentation. Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you!
Always on point Todd. This is my favorite yet .
YES!!! Thanks for dispelling so much of the common misinformation!
Great video!
Top advice one of the few that are transparent in the industry!
Boys and girls . . . you GOTTA pay attention here ! Todd KNOWS :-) I was privileged enough to attend his Esoteric Detailing Academy a WAY back in 2015 . . . you CANNOT get better show and tell!
Thank you David, and hope all is well with you these days!
Thanks you for the knowledge!! Love your videos!!
Thanks for watching!
That's right, I don't know why the hype with quick detailers since it really has been quick scratching in my experience between washes.
I never primed my pads since when learning with my uncle in the 80s at the body shop didn't do it, they just went straight with putting cream on the pad and working it at the vehicle surface and never seen it scratched too.
Haha , good one.
You touched on ceramic coatings as far as scratch resistance. My question is this. Do you have to remove and old coating before applying a new one? It’s pretty much an accepted must do step. I believe in one of you videos you state it’s not necessary. I would say compounding/polishing is absolutely necessary if your wanting to enhance the finish beforehand, but does the old coating HAVE to be removed? A prime example would be a matte finish that’s been coated… you can’t compound or polish matte paint… so given the accepted convention, you could only ever cost the vehicle once.
This is a very good question. I would also like to know.
This video explains that topic: th-cam.com/video/Sm5tQi543_Q/w-d-xo.html
The thumbnail is the best! Is was legit confused for a second...
Wes, our videographer, came up with this idea and I'm glad that he did! Thanks for watching.
I remember you from back in the day on 6Speedonline,Good to see you doing Great.
The last 30 seconds of this video made my day lol.
Thx for the video
Great video
And on this episode of Undercover Boss 😆. Great video, please do more of these.
Thanks, and glad you liked it!
In a body shop world, iv seen inexperience people use a rotary with white wool pad and they would still be scratches and swirls left over. they would go straight to a filler polish and would honestly think they were correcting.
It just goes to prove that "experience" doesn't mean best practices. One can have 20 years of experience, but it be bad experience...
Well in all fairness to body shops, they are not detail shops and are not getting paid to do that. They paint and do a quick polish/glaze to get it out the door
I have been a pro detailer for years. Have corrected, coated and washed hundreds of cars. When I watch obsessed garage it is kinda funny at this point. There are many other TH-camrs that are “experts” as well
Not sure we're following the point being made...
It was number three for us! Finally someone said it.
Todd your the Man keep doing videos they have been good
Thank you!
I would take Todd’s word over pretty much anyone else’s. Love the myth buster theme.
Thank you!
@@Esotericdetail well deserved. It was awesome to get to meet you at the event. Love your work 👍.
I'm still going to prime a wool pad lol. Love the silk dryer though.
Before this i always watched those guy from rupes that always tell to prime their pad but now i follow the method of not need to priming a foam pad, including the rupes coarse foam pad.. its surprised me how well it cut and finish with lesser product and easier to wipe.
and less dusting
Todd speaks, I listen👍
This was great. I especially liked Todd's comment on the ridiculous claims about coating longevity. As stated, if the car doesn't look as good and the hydrophobicity is gone, the coating isn't doing anything for you. So much hype and BS in this industry.
Another thing to consider is this...even IF coatings were to last that long, chances are that after a couple of years the car would have some bumps, bruises, scuffs, and scrapes that would need to be fixed by machine polishing. Once you fix those issues, then you re-coat.
@@Esotericdetail Exactly.
Great video Todd! Always appreciate your insight! What are your thoughts on a clay disc or clay towel verse actually clay bar? Do you believe those two options mar the paint less?!
I don't think anyone thinks they mar the paint less. In fact if you're buying from a reputable place, they'll tell you it will scratch worse. But they're faster.
Personally, I prefer a clay bar. I was sent a free clay pad, and I've never even tried it yet. Just hit one dry spot and your day is shot.
They all cause marring on the finish...
Would love to know what Todd thinks of the new Rupes microfiber pads
I'll let you know once I get some quality time with them!
I don't mind a quick detailer. But I use mine once the cars paint is throughly clean and it just adds a bit of gloss- that's basically what it does and clay bar lube. Completely agree with Todd 💯 about at a car show with dust.....etc (don't use it for that purpose). If you use a proper rinseless wash in a bucket of water and a black sponge or about 10+ microfiber cloths with a car that's got extremely light dust only, in that situation a proper rinseless wash would be ok to get you out of a hard spot once in a while, but using a detail spray in that manor would be bad news. Just got to have a mind set that focuses on avoiding possible situations where you could introduce swirls and marring at all time, I have a mental flow chart in my head thats well honed over the years and instinctively know what to do without thinking and the results speaks for themselves using a swirl inspection lamp...👍
Quick detailers are meant for after-wash purposes! th-cam.com/video/fA6w5mlGZrI/w-d-xo.html
Todd, great video especially about quick detailers. Have used your Polish Angel Carnuba Black and High Gloss on my Black 2010 Roush after two stage paint correction with great results. I have new 2022 black C8 as well with 500 miles. Which of your products would you recommend for it? It is garaged and only drive in nice weather. So I’m not as concerned about durability and ok w repeat applications as I enjoy it. Finish and gloss most important. Decon, clay bar and single stage finish polish first? Wax or ceramic? Your thoughts. Best detailing channel there is!
Thank you. I have a 2022 ZL1 convertible in the exact same color. A single stage polish would probably suffice for your needs, and for that paint, I highly recommend Sonax Perfect Finish with the Buff & Shine Euro Cell Red Finishing Pads. Change your pads to fresh ones after every panel. If you wanted to go the coating route, I'd recommend the Kamikaze Collection ISM 3.0, then maintain that with Cosmic Spritz. If you didn't want to use coating, then look at the PolishAngel Cosmic, then maintain it with Cosmic Spritz. I hope this helps!
@@Esotericdetail thank you! Are you referring to the Cosmic Primer and Spritz or the Cosmic V2. Really like the shine with the High Gloss. Would you recommend laying down anything before it or just go stand-alone after prep work? Also can you use the PA on the wheels? Going try the Sonax and your pads. Thanks again.
Trying the sponges too. Great video on those as well.
@@Esotericdetail is kamikaze ovecoat a good choice in this case???? surprised it not mentioned as a choice
@@marky5004 Cosmic V2. You don't need to, however using Primer Spritz before to clean up the paint does provide some more durability. For wheels, use the PA Supersport!
I’d say the only “quick detail at the car show” method would be to use damp/slightly dripping microfiber towels in conjunction with a quick detailer. Most of the scratching occurs from using a dry towel, where a wet one would provide extra lubricity to the surface and help encapsulate the debris as you wipe. Obviously use multiple towels and flip to a clean side regularly to avoid using a dirty towel around the car. Most people at car shows use ONE towel for the whole car and it drives me insane….I still recommend waiting to do a normal wash, *BUT* this damp towel method is 100% safer than using a bone dry towel.
Worse...they use that same towel all car season as it's kept in their trunk!
Educational
One of my favorite myths is textured plastic can not be polished. I have been polishing textured plastic for almost 10 years. Why apply a greasy dressing that only lasts a few week, and over time clogs the pores of the trim making it look worse, when you can polish, prep and coat and have it look better then factory for years (if properly maintained)
If you don’t mind , share your process ( type of compound, etc. ) to help us non-professionals 😳. Thanks 😎
yeah, share the knowledge ! :-) what do you use?
Amen!
I'm here for the amazing costume
This video will definitely be a hard to swallow pill to many
Hi ! Question: if i do a 2-step polishing, jescar compound + sonax perfect finish and i put a gyeon ceramic afterwards, do i need to apply Gyeon Primer?
Thanks !
No you do not.
It takes 10 seconds to get a burn through with a rotary, its almost impossible with a DA when using common sense. In my opinion the rotary isn’t worth the risk. Plus with a DA microfiber disc and a good cutting compound it can cut and rough polish in one step very fast.
But nothing spin dries your pads like a rotary.
It doesn’t take 10 fucking seconds are you stupid???
I really want a response to this question, in your myth regarding priming pads before polishing, you guys utilize and are a proponent of Rupes polishers and polishes specifically, and they explicitly them selves tell you you need to prime the pads, what do you have to say to the manufacturers and employees of Rupes about that?
Rupes recommends priming with their own compounds. They're a manufacturing company who sells products - pretty good reason to recommend to people to use more product than is actually necessary
They say to prime, I say otherwise...it's OK to to disagree. We are coming from the perspective of detailers and business owners...not from product resellers.
One the first myth about Detailers which I'm totally on board and agree with you. My take or really question is what do you think of ONR? I'm using a 32oz bottle with one half cap full of in it and the rest water as my rinseless wash detailer for things like bird droppings. Is this still a no? Thank you!
While we're not fans of it, I don't see where it would be an issue in that case.
@@Esotericdetail Awesome it's really only used for the those birds or messy bug guts. Hope you all have a great week at ESOTERIC!
@@randabuffer6562 Amen its great for quick Wash and Wax or sealant packages where you use something like Bead Maker
Clay bar scratches paint, I can agree there. But do you HAVE to polish afterwards? For my 15 year old daily driver, I don't care to have a show-car finish, but I do wax it twice a year to try and minimize UV damage and it makes bi-weekly washing easier.
That said, if the surface is rough from bonded contaminants, I've found it difficult to wipe off the wax/sealant and it seems to not last as long which I assume is due to poor adhesion to the paint.
Thoughts?
If you are fine knowing that it's marring / scratching the finish, and you are OK with that, then that is fine.
Waxes and sealants don't really do much to counter UV light, despite what the labels say. And it's definitely not doing much in that area if you're only doing it twice a year.
Interesting. So how do those products keep the paint protected? Whenever I see cars with clear coat failure, I assume it is from a lack of care, IE washing and waxing. Or really thin clear coat from some point in its life.
@@epattonm Im wondering the same .....isnt waxing sealing supposed to protect ?
forget the goatee, go for a fumanchu!!
I've Seen Videos That Say To Prime Pads With A Spray before applying A Compound or Polish There's So Much Confusion Going On About it!
For those who have tried it themselves and / or watched the following video, there's no confusion to be had. th-cam.com/video/DzJJAV-P8Uw/w-d-xo.html
Would like to know Todd's opinion on the best polisher to start out with for doing your own vehicles? More specifically someone that is new to the game but appreciates quality tools.
Griot's G9.
Rupes
@@robm5903 Rupes model #?
@@DJ_Driven Spend the money and buy the best, Rupes. They build amazing machines, they offer an amazing repair program. I would suggest the Rupes 21, but buy a 5" backing plate. 99% of my correction jobs are done with 5" pads. You have the best of both worlds, 21mm throw for better, faster correction and the smaller pads which fit better on most modern vehicles. I rarely switch to the 6" backing plate, basically just for RVs and other large flat panels.
@@urbanedgeautodetailing sounds great appreciate you're detailed recommendation!
Go with the goatee 😉
As far as a “clay bar marrs the paint” .. this is true but the “marring” is negligible unless you don’t know what you are doing. Scratches are inevitable, your car is going to get scratched no matter what you do to it, whats a scam is all these shops charging $2000-$3000 for “ceramic coatings” on cars that get driven 2000 miles a year. A quality sealant will do 99% of people just fine especially with proper maintenance washes, ceramic coatings are over hyped IMO. Do they work? Yes they do, a lot of these 5-7 year coatings are on the vehicle so thick it almost makes the vehicle paint tacky where a sealant or even a 1-2 year ceramic coating doesn’t. Iv had customers and friends get there car ceramic coating by professional shops and get charged 1600$ and they call me saying how there car doesnt feel as slick as before when i put a high quality sealant on it.
👍
What about rinsless washes?
And soft clays? There are microscopic (rather stereoscopic) views that are safe
We don't condone rinseless washes, but for some people, it's their only option. If a microfiber towel can mar paint, then I'm sure that something designed to remove contaminants will as well.
Do the same vid but for interiors. Ya know like how a filthy, dusty dashboard doesn't need to be properly cleaned first. Just spray protectant all over that shit cuz it cleans and shines. Then the sun bakes it in and it looks like hell 😆.
what about a clay mitt?
Just as abrasive...
@@Esotericdetail that was my assumption just wanted reassurance
My vote is for a full beard. 👍
Unfortunately (or fortunately) I could try for 10 years and never grow a full beard!
How can you "quick detail" a car that's been recently pooped by a bird? I understand that you should not wait until the next wash... Am I missing something?
Keep a bottle of distilled water with a few drops of automotive shampoo in it and flush as much away as possible.
@@Esotericdetail thanks!
Ived clayed new cars without scratching them
Define "scratching". If you mean deep scratches, then you're correct. Micro-scratches / marring however are inevitable when claying. Do it, then inspect in a darker garage with a good light like the Rupes LL150 and you will see what I mean (unless it's a metallic silver or similar that hides them).
Myth #2 is debatable, if you are assuming the paint you are about to clay is corrected then yes you are going to need to polish it to get it to same condition.
But for a car that has been through the automatic car wash a few times it's most likely not gonna get any worse, unless you screw something up or use really aggressive clay/mitt/disc, and after getting rid of the traffic film/brake dust/tar/tree sap the car is going to look better and the sealant/wax is going to last longer.
No need to scare people away from clay.
Typically speaking, somebody who has a badly swirled / scratched car isn't looking for a contaminate-free surface to maximize durability of a sealant, wax, or otherwise. Might you find a hammered, metallic silver older car that is in bad need of decontamination, and the scratching / marring that you would put in from claying wouldn't be any worse than what's already in there? Perhaps. But that is an outlier for sure. Most detailers who offer a "clay and wax" either don't know any better, or don't care. And most DIY people only know what they read on the instructions because the manufacturers don't tell them about the pitfalls. The claying process scratches paint. Full stop. th-cam.com/video/lgLGmBr85t4/w-d-xo.html
I hear what you're saying Viktor. I think Todd's message is more-so aimed at the TH-cam detailers who do the clay and wax packages on fairly new black cars just because people equate clay with a quality detail. In reality, you're just swirling the crap out of the black paint.
Confusingly, there's some fairly large talking heads in detailing, albeit controversial talking heads, who tell people all the time that "if you're not claying, how are you any different from the automatic car wash?". Blows my mind
@@derek723 I'm talking about any and all cars. I'd rather have a little "crunchiness" on the surface than adding more surface marring. Any type of car that comes into our shop, regardless of year, condition, etc does not get clayed unless it is getting some type of machine polishing afterwards.
@@Esotericdetail I'd say that's fair for a higher end shop who prides themselves on educating the public, but as Mike Phillips always puts it - "some people don't know a swirl from a squirrel".
The OCD in the car community sometimes aims for a perfect world, but the reality is there's definitely a market out there for clay and waxes for the less educated pop
@@derek723 In that scenario you're referring to, it's the detailer who is promoting the "clay and wax" to the consumer, which he/she shouldn't do. You said yourself that many are of the less educated group, therefore you as the expert in the field should be explaining best practices to the customer. And if the customer asks about claying, simply because they've seen commercials or read the back of the package, it's once again the detailer's responsibility to educate them accordingly. Customers will appreciate the fact that you are watching out for their best interests.
I disagree on the rotary and know you feel differently. It is not in the best interest of anyone in retail to say the truth about Rotary's being just as good if not better at providing a jeweled finish but that doesn't sell the DA's so I get that. A rotary is an acquired skill and will say it's easier to pick up a DA and get a good finish all be it in a lot more time for average people.
Some prefer driver aids on a track but a real driver can carve a track up with no aids but again it takes skill to do that and the same with a rotary to me.
You might as well take a walk down to the river and collect water while you at it, Mr Real Man
You have nothing to offer, please, be a real man and use a candle instead of electricity.. Get off TH-cam and go back to the Newspaper. You too stuck in the past
I switched from rotary to the DA over 10 years ago...long before selling polishers (we also sell rotary polishers). We work on everything from A to Z, and have no need for them in our business...however they do do quite well at spin-drying pads!
I started in the business with a rotary over 30 years ago. That’s all we had back then. I still have them and use them when necessary, but I have kept up with the times and have really valued the DA.
Not a good look, 🤔🤦🏻♂ great content though...Tnx.
Dude, I have a serious question, how do you always just randomly have all these sick expensive exotic high end super/sport cars just sitting in your bay in the background 🤣 like is this literally just the customer demographic that your business pulls on a daily basis??? If so thats literally insane
It's just the natural flow of our business, and there's usually something very special in the shop at all times.
These facts smell a lot like opinions.
Watch the accompanying videos!
Your opinions on any of these points would be much more constructive, and I for one am intrigued into which ones you think are an opinion
1st
DA is better. Sorry
Hello. You can actually clay a car without needing any polishing. Yes ceramic coating provide great resistance. You do need to prime your pad. You say you myths busting but you actually spread really false false information actually !!!!
Let's compare research!
This is just a small example of the kind of research and development WE do to draw conclusions and make definitive statements: th-cam.com/video/DzJJAV-P8Uw/w-d-xo.html
@@Esotericdetail comparing research ? I tried theses multiple times actually to tell you that. I clay many car without any trouble at all. Yes ceramic coating prevent scratches. Yes priming the pad is better for the heat, to spread the polish and have a better correction. All of that I tried it for many years.
@@Nakinakpgm Mmmmkay.