Thank you zimKnives. I grind down the back on drop points and Santoku knives, but find the upswept shape more natural for most other knives, but as I said in my other video, there is no one right way. I appreciate the feedback... Yes, I take a huge amount of pleasure in the sharpening process.
This is the best video on fixing a knife on all of youtube in my opinion. I have a Spyderco C149GP Vallotton Sub-Hilt Folding Knife I've been scared to touch myself. I think I'm going to just go for it now. This video really makes me confident I can do it myself.
+Robert Sitter Great! Just ground my first tip! It's --near-- perfect. I don't have the sharpening belts or stones so I'll have to wait till payday to sharpen it... I've been looking online for people to fix it for me for a price... I don't need to take it into a shop! Awesome!!!
excellent skill and presentation...and result...my previous thoughts were to grind out the back side to the remaining sharp part, much like a Bowie Knife
I'm new to sharpening, so i'm a little confused. Isn't a Trizact A30 like a 600 grit, but you follow that with a P400. Is there a difference between the Trizact grit and regular 400 grit. I thought it was a universal thing? Also - you strop on a leather belt with chromium oxide compound. Chromium Oxide is supposed to be 0,3 micron, so going to white rouge on a leather wheel is again confusing. But maybe all green compound isn't pure chromium oxide. Thank you for an otherwise great walk through of you process
I can’t even remember that far back. Currently I use almost exclusively A100 Trizact. Since it doesn’t load up, when it wears down, I move it to the next machine and use it as a finer grit. I then use the green compound on either a felt belt (lasts longer than leather and is cheaper) or a hard felt wheel. Then I go to a hard paper with blue compound. Since I did that video, sharpening has taken over my life and I do about 17,000 knives a year. I’m also doing a lot of TikTok stuff @patronsaintofknives if you dig through the videos there is some information there.
Thank you for the update :) I hope you are doing well for yourself. I'm not sure what the different compounds are, and which are finer. I always thought the chromium oxide was the finest grit, and after that honing was done on the smooth side of pure leather. But i guess blue is even finer. Always thought that was for aluminium :) Hope you will do an update video, and show your present sharpening system :)
@@petergdk it goes black, brown, green, white, pink, blue. Of course that is a generalization, different companies have different standards. For an old man, I am doing very well. Business has been booming.
@@PatronSaintofKnives Thank you for the insight into compounds - i will see if i can source it here in the Swedish sticks. You are very inspirational. Have looked through your website, and your business model is inspired. Have just built my own 1x60 belt grinder with VFD, and further bought and renovated three 1x30 belt grinders with one of them having gotten a variable speed DC motor. Also 3 bench grinders with felt, leather and paper wheels, and a 20 inch motorized sandtone grinder plus a Tormek knock off. I think all in it has cost me $600 Sounds like i have invested a lot of money, but apart from the VFD, everything was either free or dirt cheap. So even though i'm a newb the finer points of knife sharpening, i have started sharpening for people. Since i'm new to it, i spend way too much time on each item (like 30-40 minutes), because i don't want to send a knife out of the door that isn't so sharp, that it can split a piece of free standing newspaper. So i have also splurged on diamond spray i 2, 1, 0,5 and 0,25 micron, and have made my own chromium oxide honing paste. But would much rather use cheaper compounds. But people are happy, and i have sharpened 100 knives for customers at $3 a knife, so consumables are more than covered. With time, i will hopefully speed up the process, and become as proficient as you :) Also - getting in contact with a wide array of people have yielded other odd jobs, that i actually master, like sharpening chainsaw chains and axes, making handles for garden tools, fixing small engines and doing tree work:) I have learned a lot just watching your process, and i appreciate your kind replies and good videos. Hope to see more of them.
@@petergdk join Knife Sharpening and Restoration on Facebook. A lot of new sharpeners there. Also Sharpers chat, although a lot of that is about beauty shears. Cliff is a moderator at the first one and knows a lot about abrasive belts and machines.
Can I do this with a $50 bench grinder that has a 36 and 60 grit wheel? I don't know anything about grinders or anything but I do have a crap load of knives missing about half an inch of tip due to throwing
Hi, I just found an old knife metal detecting. It's got a body shape similar to a hawkbill but I don't think it is. It's an odd knife. The handles seem to be brass and the bolster and the handle seem to be 1 piece. It's got 3 small grooves right where the bolster would normally meet the handle. I just started to clean it. I've had it soaking in vinegar and salt since this morning. Should I try to take it apart? It's really got a lot of hard rust on it. Should I just see what the soak does and then try penetrating oil to loosen up the blade? This type of restoration is new to me. Vices and heavy steel is 1 thing. But this could be civil war Era no? Massachusetts by the way. Thanks.
Great video! I am interested in buying the Work Sharp knife and tool sharpener mostly to learn to restore damaged tips. I have heard that the belts, even a low grit, can ruin the temper on a blade? Do you find this to be true? And can the temper be restored then by hand sharpening after one restores the tip with a belt?
+David Shaffer Hi David, I understand the concern. One does move as carefully as possible in order not to heat up the blade. People debate this issue nearly to death. What I can say is this, I sharpen thousands of knives a year with an extremely loyal customer base who find that my work is sharper and stays sharper longer than anyone else they go to. At some point one needs to stop debating and accept the customers feedback. Everyone works differently, but when your business survival is completely dependent on your ability to keep customers happy then at some point you have to accept that what you're doing is working. The Worksharp is an excellent tool, as is the Wicked Edge and a number of other great products. The bottom line is, is the customer satisfied? Particularly when you're dealing with avid hunters, fisherman, chef's, and dedicated home cooks... When you screw up, you hear about it.
I was wondering if I could send you my knife, mainly as a challenge. I ended up breaking the tip off and it's style was and armor piercing tanto, wide in the back and thin in the front. I was wondering if you would be willing to repair it.
+Fariko Mike Hey Mike, It totally depends on the original shape of the knife. I would usually scrape off the back on a Santoku and then off the front of a chef's knife. Sometimes a little off both sides to make a natural shape. It's all about what looks natural.
Alan Moore The cheapest thing you can start out with it’s a small harbor freight belt sander. They are inexpensive and the last basically forever. Nowadays, I use Viel belt sanders almost exclusively. They run a little slower and the longer belt lasts a bit longer. Both of these Sanders can be run either horizontally or vertically which is crucial to my technique. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the harbor freight sander, just be very careful about pressure. Too much pressure or moving too slowly will burn your edge. Buy a bunch of cheap knives the Goodwill and practice a little bit.
Thank you for your very informative videos. They are full of knowledge, experience and valuable insight. I have a question though: How would you go about repairing a broken tip on a scandinavian grind knife? If it's not severely broken, but only a few millimeters... Also, do you also use this method (belt sanders) of sharpening on scandinavian and flat grind knives? I guess it wouldn't work on those due to the requirement of a flat hard surface, but still I would like to hear your thoughts on that. Thank you very much for your reply in advance. Regards from Portugal :)
Hello Emanuel, Thank you for the note and the question. While I personally prefer a long convex shape to my blade, the flat skandi edge can be attained by the careful use of the hard platen behind the belt. As I mentioned in the video this is less forgiving of any subtle mistakes you might make in angle. You might consider starting on the flat of the platen and finishing up on wet and dry sandpaper glued to a piece of glass for the final polish. Also, when working absolutely flat, a jig of some sort can be very useful. I hope that helps.
Patron Saint of Knives Thank you very much for your prompt reply. It was very helpful and gave me some good ideas. I just have one more question: Could it be easier to grind down the spine of the blade near the tip to a flat surface slightly changing the spine angle at the tip? The knife I have to repair is a Mora Companion, it has two flat surfaces on the spine, I was thinking the best way to repair it without changing the angle of the scandi grind would be to grind the second surface of the spine near the tip, flat until it meets the new tip... Are there any drawbacks to this method in comparison to the one you use where you basically create a new cutting edge? Thank you very much.
Emanuel Antunes Hello Again Emanuel, There are many people that prefer to take metal off the back of the blade instead of the front. There are no written rules here, just like there is no one perfect way to sharpen a knife. Technique and practice are more important than what particular method you use. Personally I find it more esthetically pleasing to reshape the cutting edge of the blade, but it is true that taking metal off the back is easier and certainly workable. For esthetic purposes, you might want to take it all the way back to the crest midway back on the spine, but that's just for looks.
Patron Saint of Knives You've been most helpful, thank you very much for your prompt replies =) And thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the rest of us ;) Warm regards from Portugal :)
I haven't seen anyone remove this much metal from a belt before, seems like it would wear out a belt fast, is there some reason why you wouldn't use a grinder? Also, I thought only the edge of the knife is tempered; This is cutlery, I see you put a convex edge on this knife, is that usual for cutlery? I thought cutlery used a standard v edge Thanx, love your attitude and the great work you do sunaj
sun Tao Hey Sun, I find it easier to control both the shape and the heat on a belt. Since that video I have started using a much rougher belt for the reshaping as well as a table for easy angle control. The rougher the belt the less heat is built up. The whole blade is tempered the same in western knives. It would be hard to sharpen effectively otherwise. The blade would get softer the more you sharpened it. There will be updated videos when the new shop is done!
Thanx a lot:) I see you are using the special sharpening disks for your bench grinder, could you tell me the grit, and doesn't it do pretty much the same thing as your belt sander? Thanx:)
sun Tao /Those are leather clad wooden wheel loaded with a fine rouge. You can lean in on them at a high speed and they put a deep polish on the edge. It's an extra step that makes a difference.
It occurred to me that I should mention… I would never use an actual bench grinder on the edge of a knife that I was sharpening unless it was a water stone like the Tormek. It's very hard to control the contact point and heat is almost instantaneous.
Nicholas Yang The Spyderco comes a good deal sharper than most other pocket knives and as a result has a relatively fragile edge. I just popped a chip out of my Shun hitting a date seed. The sharper your knife is, the more you need to take care of it. It will come out in a good sharpening.
I was just about to laugh at your butchers bib... then realised that a chain mail apron is probably awesome. Am I right in assuming you use it because the metal soaks the heat, and if anything gets flung back at you it doesnt penetrate? Great repair skills btw mate. +1
After having a belt come loose ones from the leather wheel and leave a huge red welts across my stomach, I decided protection was in order. The added benefit, is that the metal apron dissipates static electricity and keeps me from being shocked while I work. Thanks for the compliment!
Youre welcome mate. Ive only seen butchers wear those tbh ... but actually they are probably better than leather aprons. I hope you start a trend tbh... Im going to try and get one for using power tools like an angle grinder.... i bet they do far better at stopping shrapnel than a leather bib. Thx subbed and +1
Hello Patron Saint of Knives. That is the problem I am getting With my 1"x30" belt-disc combination sander. Some kind of Static/Electric shock Scares the bejesus out of me. I've got it mounted on Two pieces of Thick wooden blocks Ontop of A rubber mat I'm still getting a shock. The machine is brand-new I always use a ( RCD ) I will try that Copper wire Trick Thank you very very much. oh i've just sub to your channel again Thank you
Dave Sherrell Now that I wear a steel mesh vest, the static dissipates into the metal regularly and I very rarely get shocked anymore. I suspect you could also just run a piece of wire to ground.
Jason Smither yeah sometimes the shock is really bad a couple of days ago I was holding the buffing compound on the leather honing belt and a knife in my other hand I had such a shock I stupidly stabbed myself not bad but enough to make me pay more attention ( don't hold a knife whilst holding buffing compound against the belt ) stay safe Jason
Ok,I just watched this video. Great job. But I have a couple of questions. First, where do you get your chainmail apron? Second, you said you get your trizact belts from China. Where do you order? I mean, is it in on eBay or just where? Again. Great video. Thanks, Tom
+arkomo54 Hey Tom... I used Alibaba to access the Trizact belts in China and I got the chainmail apron off of ebay after a belt came off the leather wheel and left a welt across my stomach.
Profile the shape first. Don't create the cutting bevel until the blade surface is a perpendicular to the flat surface of the blade. All will be well and you take less material off the blade it'self.
i thot ur suppose to go from spine to edge when u reprofile tips? Wouldnt grinding cutting edge hurt the heat treat orr? haha you do seem like you know what your doing tho
That is my question... would it be easier to remove the spine so not to have to resharpen the knife? Or how to shape it to a sharp flat point as like a diving knife?
Hey googo151, In the shop, metal dust is the enemy. I have extensive air filtration, as well as magnets everywhere, but it is still fairly pervasive. When working, your hands get filthy and if you handle a customer's white handled knife, it gets dirty and very hard to clean, not to mention carrying the metal dust back into the main house. The gloves make for easy clean up.
Thanks for the reply. I was searching knife tip repairs and found you. I have to make a repair to my chef knife, Gyotu style knife (demascus) and don't have a grinder or belt sander, so I have to use a stone. Not a huge break but enough to be annoying. Thanks for the tips. -A
Hey googo151, When sharpening multiple knives, you generate a lot of metal dust, which gets into everything and is hard to clean off. Also, I often get white handled knives and don't want to get the handles dirty, so I switch gloves as needed. When I go back into the house I take my gloves off to keep my wife happy too.
your channel name makes me smile as i call cliff stamp the patron saint of knives. glad to know there are more than one! :)
You have serious skill my friend. This was awesome to watch. Thanks for an awesome video
49Giants ji
Thank you zimKnives. I grind down the back on drop points and Santoku knives, but find the upswept shape more natural for most other knives, but as I said in my other video, there is no one right way. I appreciate the feedback... Yes, I take a huge amount of pleasure in the sharpening process.
This is the best video on fixing a knife on all of youtube in my opinion. I have a Spyderco C149GP Vallotton Sub-Hilt Folding Knife I've been scared to touch myself. I think I'm going to just go for it now. This video really makes me confident I can do it myself.
+Robert Sitter Great! Just ground my first tip! It's --near-- perfect. I don't have the sharpening belts or stones so I'll have to wait till payday to sharpen it... I've been looking online for people to fix it for me for a price... I don't need to take it into a shop! Awesome!!!
+Robert Sitter Congratulations!
Excellent video
excellent skill and presentation...and result...my previous thoughts were to grind out the back side to the remaining sharp part, much like a Bowie Knife
I'm new to sharpening, so i'm a little confused.
Isn't a Trizact A30 like a 600 grit, but you follow that with a P400. Is there a difference between the Trizact grit and regular 400 grit. I thought it was a universal thing?
Also - you strop on a leather belt with chromium oxide compound. Chromium Oxide is supposed to be 0,3 micron, so going to white rouge on a leather wheel is again confusing.
But maybe all green compound isn't pure chromium oxide.
Thank you for an otherwise great walk through of you process
I can’t even remember that far back. Currently I use almost exclusively A100 Trizact. Since it doesn’t load up, when it wears down, I move it to the next machine and use it as a finer grit.
I then use the green compound on either a felt belt (lasts longer than leather and is cheaper) or a hard felt wheel. Then I go to a hard paper with blue compound.
Since I did that video, sharpening has taken over my life and I do about 17,000 knives a year. I’m also doing a lot of TikTok stuff @patronsaintofknives if you dig through the videos there is some information there.
Thank you for the update :)
I hope you are doing well for yourself.
I'm not sure what the different compounds are, and which are finer. I always thought the chromium oxide was the finest grit, and after that honing was done on the smooth side of pure leather. But i guess blue is even finer. Always thought that was for aluminium :)
Hope you will do an update video, and show your present sharpening system :)
@@petergdk it goes black, brown, green, white, pink, blue. Of course that is a generalization, different companies have different standards.
For an old man, I am doing very well. Business has been booming.
@@PatronSaintofKnives Thank you for the insight into compounds - i will see if i can source it here in the Swedish sticks.
You are very inspirational. Have looked through your website, and your business model is inspired.
Have just built my own 1x60 belt grinder with VFD, and further bought and renovated three 1x30 belt grinders with one of them having gotten a variable speed DC motor.
Also 3 bench grinders with felt, leather and paper wheels, and a 20 inch motorized sandtone grinder plus a Tormek knock off. I think all in it has cost me $600
Sounds like i have invested a lot of money, but apart from the VFD, everything was either free or dirt cheap.
So even though i'm a newb the finer points of knife sharpening, i have started sharpening for people.
Since i'm new to it, i spend way too much time on each item (like 30-40 minutes), because i don't want to send a knife out of the door that isn't so sharp, that it can split a piece of free standing newspaper.
So i have also splurged on diamond spray i 2, 1, 0,5 and 0,25 micron, and have made my own chromium oxide honing paste. But would much rather use cheaper compounds.
But people are happy, and i have sharpened 100 knives for customers at $3 a knife, so consumables are more than covered.
With time, i will hopefully speed up the process, and become as proficient as you :)
Also - getting in contact with a wide array of people have yielded other odd jobs, that i actually master, like sharpening chainsaw chains and axes, making handles for garden tools, fixing small engines and doing tree work:)
I have learned a lot just watching your process, and i appreciate your kind replies and good videos. Hope to see more of them.
@@petergdk join Knife Sharpening and Restoration on Facebook. A lot of new sharpeners there. Also Sharpers chat, although a lot of that is about beauty shears. Cliff is a moderator at the first one and knows a lot about abrasive belts and machines.
I just noticed your wearing a chain-mail apron, bravo, sir.
Can I do this with a $50 bench grinder that has a 36 and 60 grit wheel? I don't know anything about grinders or anything but I do have a crap load of knives missing about half an inch of tip due to throwing
Thank you. My wife broke an 8" Chef's Knife exactly as in your example. I think I'll attempt to repair it now.
Hi, I just found an old knife metal detecting. It's got a body shape similar to a hawkbill but I don't think it is. It's an odd knife. The handles seem to be brass and the bolster and the handle seem to be 1 piece. It's got 3 small grooves right where the bolster would normally meet the handle. I just started to clean it. I've had it soaking in vinegar and salt since this morning. Should I try to take it apart? It's really got a lot of hard rust on it. Should I just see what the soak does and then try penetrating oil to loosen up the blade? This type of restoration is new to me. Vices and heavy steel is 1 thing. But this could be civil war Era no? Massachusetts by the way. Thanks.
That’s not really my specialty, but send a picture to patronsaintofknives@gmail.com and I’ll take a look. I’m connected to thousands of sharpeners.
Great video! I am interested in buying the Work Sharp knife and tool sharpener mostly to learn to restore damaged tips. I have heard that the belts, even a low grit, can ruin the temper on a blade? Do you find this to be true? And can the temper be restored then by hand sharpening after one restores the tip with a belt?
+David Shaffer Hi David,
I understand the concern. One does move as carefully as possible in order not to heat up the blade. People debate this issue nearly to death. What I can say is this, I sharpen thousands of knives a year with an extremely loyal customer base who find that my work is sharper and stays sharper longer than anyone else they go to. At some point one needs to stop debating and accept the customers feedback. Everyone works differently, but when your business survival is completely dependent on your ability to keep customers happy then at some point you have to accept that what you're doing is working. The Worksharp is an excellent tool, as is the Wicked Edge and a number of other great products. The bottom line is, is the customer satisfied? Particularly when you're dealing with avid hunters, fisherman, chef's, and dedicated home cooks... When you screw up, you hear about it.
I was wondering if I could send you my knife, mainly as a challenge. I ended up breaking the tip off and it's style was and armor piercing tanto, wide in the back and thin in the front. I was wondering if you would be willing to repair it.
Thank you for replying I think I might have to try earthing it to ground hopefully that will work as I can't afford a chainmail apron thank you again
Can you demonstrate how to make it into a flat tip like for a diving knife?
would you always remove the excess material (when re shaping) from the bottom (cutting edge side) or can you remove it from the top edge instead?
+Fariko Mike Hey Mike, It totally depends on the original shape of the knife. I would usually scrape off the back on a Santoku and then off the front of a chef's knife. Sometimes a little off both sides to make a natural shape. It's all about what looks natural.
I thought some makers only heat treat the along the edge. Don't you need to be careful of cutting beyond the heat treated portion?
What would you recommend as a first belt grinder for repairs? Thanks
Alan Moore The cheapest thing you can start out with it’s a small harbor freight belt sander. They are inexpensive and the last basically forever. Nowadays, I use Viel belt sanders almost exclusively. They run a little slower and the longer belt lasts a bit longer. Both of these Sanders can be run either horizontally or vertically which is crucial to my technique. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the harbor freight sander, just be very careful about pressure. Too much pressure or moving too slowly will burn your edge. Buy a bunch of cheap knives the Goodwill and practice a little bit.
@@PatronSaintofKnives sorry forgot to mention I was in UK but I can get the same kind of grinder you mention here, thanks for your help
Thank you for your very informative videos. They are full of knowledge, experience and valuable insight. I have a question though: How would you go about repairing a broken tip on a scandinavian grind knife? If it's not severely broken, but only a few millimeters... Also, do you also use this method (belt sanders) of sharpening on scandinavian and flat grind knives? I guess it wouldn't work on those due to the requirement of a flat hard surface, but still I would like to hear your thoughts on that. Thank you very much for your reply in advance. Regards from Portugal :)
Hello Emanuel,
Thank you for the note and the question. While I personally prefer a long convex shape to my blade, the flat skandi edge can be attained by the careful use of the hard platen behind the belt. As I mentioned in the video this is less forgiving of any subtle mistakes you might make in angle. You might consider starting on the flat of the platen and finishing up on wet and dry sandpaper glued to a piece of glass for the final polish. Also, when working absolutely flat, a jig of some sort can be very useful. I hope that helps.
Patron Saint of Knives Thank you very much for your prompt reply. It was very helpful and gave me some good ideas.
I just have one more question: Could it be easier to grind down the spine of the blade near the tip to a flat surface slightly changing the spine angle at the tip? The knife I have to repair is a Mora Companion, it has two flat surfaces on the spine, I was thinking the best way to repair it without changing the angle of the scandi grind would be to grind the second surface of the spine near the tip, flat until it meets the new tip... Are there any drawbacks to this method in comparison to the one you use where you basically create a new cutting edge? Thank you very much.
Emanuel Antunes Hello Again Emanuel,
There are many people that prefer to take metal off the back of the blade instead of the front. There are no written rules here, just like there is no one perfect way to sharpen a knife. Technique and practice are more important than what particular method you use. Personally I find it more esthetically pleasing to reshape the cutting edge of the blade, but it is true that taking metal off the back is easier and certainly workable. For esthetic purposes, you might want to take it all the way back to the crest midway back on the spine, but that's just for looks.
Patron Saint of Knives You've been most helpful, thank you very much for your prompt replies =) And thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the rest of us ;) Warm regards from Portugal :)
I haven't seen anyone remove this much metal from a belt before, seems like it would wear out a belt fast,
is there some reason why you wouldn't use a grinder?
Also, I thought only the edge of the knife is tempered;
This is cutlery, I see you put a convex edge on this knife,
is that usual for cutlery? I thought cutlery used a standard v edge
Thanx, love your attitude and the great work you do
sunaj
sun Tao Hey Sun,
I find it easier to control both the shape and the heat on a belt. Since that video I have started using a much rougher belt for the reshaping as well as a table for easy angle control. The rougher the belt the less heat is built up.
The whole blade is tempered the same in western knives. It would be hard to sharpen effectively otherwise. The blade would get softer the more you sharpened it.
There will be updated videos when the new shop is done!
Thanx a lot:) I see you are using the special sharpening disks for your bench grinder, could you tell me the grit,
and doesn't it do pretty much the same thing as your belt sander?
Thanx:)
sun Tao /Those are leather clad wooden wheel loaded with a fine rouge. You can lean in on them at a high speed and they put a deep polish on the edge. It's an extra step that makes a difference.
It occurred to me that I should mention… I would never use an actual bench grinder on the edge of a knife that I was sharpening unless it was a water stone like the Tormek. It's very hard to control the contact point and heat is almost instantaneous.
Thank you, great info:)
i like your style, i like your experience, i like you vids. Subscribed at once!
My CPM S30v knife just got a dented tip from hitting some marble lightly... how should I fix it? And why did it dent so easily.
Nicholas Yang The Spyderco comes a good deal sharper than most other pocket knives and as a result has a relatively fragile edge. I just popped a chip out of my Shun hitting a date seed. The sharper your knife is, the more you need to take care of it. It will come out in a good sharpening.
Do you still do mail order repair and sharpening? I couldn't find you on twitter, but I have a pocket knife with a broken blade tip.
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice work! That was a lot of damage to fix.
Thank you Jason!
I would have taken off the top instead of the blade side as you're changing the whole definition of the cutting side.
Yep, I would have done the same, leaving the knife with a Santoku-ish shape. 😁✌
I was just about to laugh at your butchers bib... then realised that a chain mail apron is probably awesome. Am I right in assuming you use it because the metal soaks the heat, and if anything gets flung back at you it doesnt penetrate?
Great repair skills btw mate. +1
After having a belt come loose ones from the leather wheel and leave a huge red welts across my stomach, I decided protection was in order. The added benefit, is that the metal apron dissipates static electricity and keeps me from being shocked while I work.
Thanks for the compliment!
Youre welcome mate. Ive only seen butchers wear those tbh ... but actually they are probably better than leather aprons. I hope you start a trend tbh... Im going to try and get one for using power tools like an angle grinder.... i bet they do far better at stopping shrapnel than a leather bib. Thx subbed and +1
0:49 You savage! i have no words :p
Hello Patron Saint of Knives. That is the problem I am getting With my 1"x30" belt-disc combination sander. Some kind of Static/Electric shock Scares the bejesus out of me. I've got it mounted on Two pieces of Thick wooden blocks Ontop of A rubber mat I'm still getting a shock. The machine is brand-new I always use a ( RCD ) I will try that Copper wire Trick Thank you very very much. oh i've just sub to your channel again Thank you
Dave Sherrell Now that I wear a steel mesh vest, the static dissipates into the metal regularly and I very rarely get shocked anymore. I suspect you could also just run a piece of wire to ground.
Dave Sherrell Yea 1×30 shocks the sh*t out of me too...I thought I was the only one!
Jason Smither yeah sometimes the shock is really bad a couple of days ago I was holding the buffing compound on the leather honing belt and a knife in my other hand I had such a shock I stupidly stabbed myself not bad but enough to make me pay more attention ( don't hold a knife whilst holding buffing compound against the belt ) stay safe Jason
Dave Sherrell Damn, sorry to hear that...stay safe too Dave! 🗡
I had to look away when he put the blade in the vice and broke it.
Ok,I just watched this video. Great job. But I have a couple of questions. First, where do you get your chainmail apron? Second, you said you get your trizact belts from China. Where do you order? I mean, is it in on eBay or just where? Again. Great video. Thanks, Tom
+arkomo54 Hey Tom... I used Alibaba to access the Trizact belts in China and I got the chainmail apron off of ebay after a belt came off the leather wheel and left a welt across my stomach.
Profile the shape first. Don't create the cutting bevel until the blade surface is a perpendicular to the flat surface of the blade. All will be well and you take less material off the blade it'self.
yorr persona I think that’s what I did. But I appreciate the advice.
“and that’s how it’s done, Son.”
i thot ur suppose to go from spine to edge when u reprofile tips? Wouldnt grinding cutting edge hurt the heat treat orr? haha you do seem like you know what your doing tho
That is my question... would it be easier to remove the spine so not to have to resharpen the knife? Or how to shape it to a sharp flat point as like a diving knife?
You look like Mark Hamill!
Should have made a tanto blade instead
I am not fond of the tanto shape, particularly for kitchen knives.
iTheGeek / Not even very good for stabbing. It's a fad knife. Useful on a samurai sword.
I have a knife from the Vietnam War my grandfather gave me and its tip was damaged... if only I had the tools and skills.
If you pop it in the mail, I can repair that tip for a very reasonable price. :)
I live in the Philippines sadly :D
A Santoku shape would have been more appropriate in my humble opinion. Good job anyway.
Monks have nothing on this guy. so casual while wrist is mm ' s away from a grinding skin cheese grater. man knows his surroundings
Why are you wearing surgical gloves?
Hey googo151,
In the shop, metal dust is the enemy. I have extensive air filtration, as well as magnets everywhere, but it is still fairly pervasive. When working, your hands get filthy and if you handle a customer's white handled knife, it gets dirty and very hard to clean, not to mention carrying the metal dust back into the main house. The gloves make for easy clean up.
Thanks for the reply. I was searching knife tip repairs and found you. I have to make a repair to my chef knife, Gyotu style knife (demascus) and don't have a grinder or belt sander, so I have to use a stone. Not a huge break but enough to be annoying. Thanks for the tips. -A
googo151 If you were in the Portland/Vancouver area, you could drop it off and I'd fix it. I'm very affordable.
Wish I could, but in Brooklyn NY. -A
Hey googo151,
When sharpening multiple knives, you generate a lot of metal dust, which gets into everything and is hard to clean off. Also, I often get white handled knives and don't want to get the handles dirty, so I switch gloves as needed. When I go back into the house I take my gloves off to keep my wife happy too.
Omg it was painful watching you break that!
when you broke that tip you made me cringe =(