I did electrical installation city and Guilds in 1989 which unfortunately I wasn't able to carry on with now due to health issues but I just wanted to say thanks for sharing the videos that you do. It's great to see the way that safety has changed over the years and the way that you share your journey with these changes has been brilliant to see. About the people who have complained about the adverts all I'm going to say is if they don't like them don't watch the video's. If your not happy with the way the channel is being delivered then it's simple enough at the end of the day. Keep up the great work & great videos and just carry on what your doing & run the channel how u need to
If it's a 70's install, the cpc in 2.5 will be 1 milli, not 1.5. I would have tucked that slack cable into the ceiling void. You never know when you might need a bit spare.
The reason for sitting the meters so close to the cut out is for the purpose of revenue protection. I asked this question a while back when we had a meter installed. Sometimes the tails from the cut out to the meter run through a solid plastic block to protect the tails.
Just a useful piece of information regarding the earthing of the gas meter. The fire grommet will expand under fire conditions but the purpose of sealing any hole from a Gas perspective is so that if, a gas leak occurs in the inset meter box, it won’t make its way into the cavity of the building potentially causing a explosion if ignited. There is a special non set putty that can be purchased. This is why gas pipes are sleeved and sealed one side.
Yes agree and about to write same thing . Been a gas engineer for 27 years. Get yourself some denso mastic putty or fjc from pts or bss. Leaving a hole from the rear of the box into the cavity unsealed is an At Risk situation. And like the comment above if there was a leak ect in the box if left unsealed it could potentially fill the cavity with gas.
I use those same intumescent grommets all the time, but still use a tails gland to give the tails that extra tough protection where they enter the board, both because that's the incoming power only protected by the main fuse and because being much thicker than the other cables they can potentially hold some tension (wonder if they could wear through a grommet given enough time?). Might be over cautious but whatever let's me sleep at night...
I struggle to ascertain the issue with mounting the distribution board near a waste pipe on the basis that 'it might leak in the future'. If that were a valid statement, would you not install downlights in a living room directly below a bathroom incase 'it leaks in the future'? I don't recall a section within 'Selection & Erection' entitled 'Suitably siting electrical equipment and accessories in order to compensate for future misfortunes'.
Obviously there should be a suitably siting electrical equipment and accessories in order to compensate for future misfortunes section 👀 oh no, did I just give the IET an idea for the 19th 🙈 🤣
In the same way you would not place power and data together. I would recommend not placing electrical systems near or under water or waste pipes. Its just common sense, would you not agree? An electrical AE would not be happy!
John Ward did a video on the meter tail / eddy current issue and came to the conclusion it wasn't a problem. However if you're faced with using 2x 20mm holes as the only option for the tails, a slot cut between them makes them the same hole.
Dude another top video as always, make sure to seal round earth cables in gas meter box, especially through cavity walls, because if there was to be a gas leak on the meter it will stop the build up of gas going in to the cavity. 👍
It’s really good that you take time out to make these vids... it’s deffo something I wouldn’t be arsed doing so ignore the haters! I’m sure 95% of people appreciate them and I think that’s the best you’ll ever get these days!
Great video, quick question .... Why did you upgrade the meter tails to 25mm as the service cut out fuse was only 60amp? Surely the original 16mm tails were sufficient, no?
Very informative vid again .... obviously I'm going to be an arse and point some bits out only up for discussion ! I would've installed an isolator in that electrical cupboard for 3M tails. With the earth bond for the water, I get where your coming from BUT if you can look around and say that the high percentage of water pipe installation is copper with copper joins etc and the house is of an age where it is more than likely a true copper pipe installation then I would 100% earth bond above that stop cock, especially as the ceiling is down and there is a refurb on. I know the regs say blue pipe installations don't need bonding but I would use common sense and read that as they assume houses of a certain era that will have polypipe sections and some push fit connectors. I just think on that job I would've run it in for peace of mind. Keep up the good work though mate !
I’m an electrician in the states. And I’m admiring your two pouches that you work out of on your waist. Are the pouches incorporated on the shorts or are they separate. Also could I get the name of them? I would love to get a set
Ray - I moved to the UK from the states a year ago. I immediately noticed that just about all trades folk in Europe wear work pants with these pockets - they are referred to as holster pockets. They are brilliant. They are an integral part of the pants, but means that you can kneel down without stabbing yourself Lol. Dewalt make them amongst just about everyone else over here
Are those double insulated tails okay in the ceiling and wall cavity Chris? I've never had to or considered doing it myself but I'm guessing the >50mm reg covers it? I usually fit an isolator or switch/fuse, then SWA or singles in galv conduit or trunking to the board. I guess it's the same as running a 16mm T&E without RCD protection, as long as its buried deep enough in the cavity it will comply. Also I don't tend to upgrade the tails from 16 to 25mm unless calculations require it. Same goes for the main earth. But I sometimes upgrade them if I have to run them in new like you have done. 16mm2 can cope with 60A of course, and the 10mm earth will cope with the PFC. Keep the content coming mate.
Is that only a UK thing or what? Here in Croatia, Germany, Austria... we have 2MCBs for one room, one for lights and one for sockets most of the time. Now that i moved to UK I am curious, do they seem to put everything on one fuse? Good video :)
Great video again mate 👍 did you seal the 10mm gas bond coming into that box? Was always taught not install through the rear or side of the box in case of a leak and gas in the cavity. Keep up the good work!!
Looks like the house is going to have a refurb so seems false economy not to rewire given the cabling could be 40 years old even though it tests out OK.I would consider some sort of waterproof panel above the CU if only to deflect any future leak from the soil pipe.
If a Cooker specifies a minimum rating of 32A and a maximum of 40A do you ask the customer what they would prefer bearing in mind it's their money and their cooker and using a lower rating affects the available power for the cooker?
You guys some some strange panels in the UK. Fun to see the differences between the UK and US. We don't test things here, wire it up, turn on the power, if the breaker didn't trip its good, move on to the next one! LOL Keep up the good work.
No testing at all? Not even to make sure you've got an earth/ground present at your sockets, or that the cables weren't damaged during installation, or that your GFCI sockets are tripping when they should?
We used to use a polarity tester for the sockets. Test the RCD function ect. New build flats back in the early 90s we did line to earth insulation resistance test on lights n power final subcirciuts.
Just had a look into the fire rated grommets. The particular brand I looked into, which look similar, state the grommets aren't designed for main tail entry. Not sure if this has been brought up in the comments. However, Hager also state making their consumer units fire rated isn't necessary for their boards after extensive testing. But they IP rating would still need to be achieved. Hope this helps in any way
CJR what was the reason for upgrading the meter tails to 25mm2, if the meter has a 60amp fuse? did the new HAGER board have a 60amp main switch? I get that you probably had to replace them anyway for length to the new board. Is the customer going to look at getting his grid supply changed to 100amp? in which chase you're just future proofing the job?
Great video mate love your channel. Just woundering if you have ever heard of foam causing damage to pvc cables. I've always used it myself for filling holes when sparking. Ive Recently started a with a new firm subcontracting international mains who won't let us use it we use hilti two part gear. Do you reckon it's true that I causes damage or is this just a money making racket?
Polystyrene, which forms the basis of a lot of expanding foams, will break down the plasticisers in the PVC insulation. Over time, this will cause the cable to fail
Recent EICR i completed had 80amp fuse 16mm tails 6mm main earth and 6mm bonding and damage to front of 3036 fuse box no exposed parts on tncs pme supply. I recommend upgrading board to 6way rcbo board 25mm tails 16mm earth and 10mm bonding. Customer is confused as apparently another report from 12months ago doesn't mention anything and states all is ok!! Am I missing something here???
@@solarrover9575 c3 for earthing and c2 for fuse board. But suggested that while installing the new CU just upgrade the tails and bonding. Job done. Am I right I doing so? Views please
@@solarrover9575 I understand main earthing conductor may be fine when using adabatic equation, but for main bonding PME supply states min 10mm therefore surely makes sense to upgrade tails and earty to 25mm 16mm?
Never mind about somebody else's report, the accuracy of some are questionable to say the least. Damage to a consumer unit requires repair or replacement. My price for a consumer unit change includes new tails, new earth and gland.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Yes as does mine Alvin, therefore a new CU would eliminate most of the issues on my report, just doubting myself as you do when customer questions you! Is the 10mm bonding required I would say yes as PME supply.
Where do you get your hager boards from and how much did it cost you mate. Can you also do a video on how you check for your borrowed neutrals on lights
That poop transportation tube looks a bit iffy (looking at the external marking). When working on the consumer unit definitely need P.P.E. just in case. 😀😁🤣 Elf and Safety.
Question for you. I'm thinking of becoming a sparky. Is it easy to get your head around fingers because all the testing is confusing me, like how do you know what is "safe" and what isn't. Thanks Cal.
@@beardedsparks2825 Damn, that's me out of the thought of that, Only just managed to pass my maths 2 years ago after failing it by 3 marks in high school. Still don't know how I passed though. LOL
Had a plumber show concern that my gas meter did not have earth bonding and whilst the gas comes in via plastic his reasoning was if the copper pipe becomes live and anyone touches it as it can't go to earth through plastic whoever touches that pipe would? To pacify him I ran an earth wire from the gas meter to the earth terminal block outside the fuse box. He was then happy as Larry????? Oh well.
It's amazing how easily pipework picks up an earth within an installation... Even just going through damp walls. Pipework could be buried in floor. It's too simplistic to assume just because it arrives in plastic that bonding isn't required. It should be tested.
This is true same with push fit water pipes with copper pipe I had a call out someone receiving shocks off metal shower hose. Investigation found shower cable load side earth had been connected into the load live. Plastic push fit used on copper pipe and plastic incoming water pipe shocking
@@Klberts1234 cheers for that it did surprise me given that most sparks do not earth bond when the feed in is plastic. As I said I ran a 10mm earth from the gas pipe to the earth block next to the main fuse as I won't open the fuse box. As I see it the block has a cpc going into the fuse box anyway so it's earthed.
My understanding is that a surge protection device is now fitted as standard unless you complete the risk assessment (in the bs7671) to show that it's not required and attach the completed risk assessment to the EIC
@@doomain6769 It's not a requirement in a single dwelling unit, it's a recommendation. The installer has a duty of care to advise the installation owner of the benefits derived from having an SPD fitted but ultimately it's down to the client weather they want it or not.
mmmmmm no bonding on the water due to plastic incoming supply.......i had an niciec guy refuse to sign my electrical work off until i placed two 10mm bonds on to 2 water pipes which (u guessed it, werethe plastic incoming mains 50 mm below) not sure why?..........
Another quality video mate! Ignore the 🛎 🔚s about the adverts, do they even watch TH-cam videos? Tell me one that doesn’t have a few ads! Like the tamper sticker touch, will be using that one!
L .... you mean you turned off what you thought was up or down,then didn’t test before you touched!!....did you forget the safe isolation procedure? 🤔😂😂
I have no problems with adverts at all this is half hour video completely free of charge people pay £40-100 a month for tv then that has 3 minutes of adverts every 15 minutes
To the people complaining about adverts; buck up or shut up. The man spends extra time he could be using to get his work done faster for the sake of educating you lot. Nobody works for free. Don't want adverts? There's YT Red, it's only a few per month.
I think it's a shame you have to try and justify yourself how you want to run your channel and I think it's terrible someone would question it. Carry on lad.
I don't get any adds on your videos ... Because I pay for premium, my times worth more than watching adds, and moaning about it. Keep up the great vids 👍
@@gadgetman36 No I use it for more than just removing the adds another great feature is I can play a podcast and turn the screen off on my phone and I get the premium music.
@@havoctrousers Until they bake it in as a first party script or choose to crypto-mine as payment instead or you find out that the ad blocker is cookie stuffing 🤣
Might have been an idea to ask the energy provider to upgrade the cut-off fuse to 100A, upgrade the distributor tails to 25 mm sq and fit a 100A DP isolator to the consumer tails.
Yes they will do it for a few hundred pounds and 6 month after your planned the job in your diary . And 9 times out of 10 when you call they say we are extremely busy has it got a fuse , well pull it out lol. Waste of time phoning really. Advise the customer when done and they can have it done at their leisure .
Not applicable for current regulations. Manufactures don't supply torque requirements. Normally use the old school electrical tightness standards. Ft tight and a tug test. F***ing tight and can I pull the cable out.
Line conductor divided by CPC conductor will tell you what to multiply your reading by. For example 2.5 divided by 1 is 2.5 times the reading on the line conductor. Hope this helps.
Could you imagine getting a call out from the customer saying his worried about his consumer unit because the shit pipe has broke, and arriving along to find the consumer unit destroyed in shit 💩💩🙈🤣🤣😂
Any reason why mounted the cu so high? Will need a step ladder to reach it when it trips? . why fit a spd please don't say niceic advised(nimwit idiots clueless can't think of another one for e or I but the c is for crooks😂) how much do they charge for membership plus there lunch when they come out and visit. I was asked by one of them what does tncs mean on a assessment once. My answer ended with off
Ha Ha..ya got the new NICEIC logo'd polo shirts i see? like Tom Nagy? looks the part Chris. Well done ;-) You seem to have changed your demeanour and gone posh :-D all pro and all that...great Vid fella...
Adam Williams wouldnt worry about it mate, theres thousands of so called fully qualified sparks out there who dont give a toss about testing or the regs come to think of it. What i will say is that our trade seriously over thinks things
Check out John Ward, his videos will help you to understand what you're testing and why. It's not the actual testing that is difficult, it's knowing what to do when the readings aren't as you'd expect 🙄
You can cut the seal on the cut-out to compile with the EAWR but I don't think you can on the meter without the express permission of the meter provider.
not true for the AM2 they use the megger its a pain in the ass and only got told at the end you can ask the examiner how to set the metre up for each test before hand
@@michaelsimpson6603 you can't, if not a 32A final ring, then it needs to ba a 20A radial instead, only in 2.5mm2 protected by a 20A Mcb type B. See BS7671
Really? So how it works is installing consumer units under bathrooms and next to water pipes . ? Well pardon me but 22 years on the game and unfortunately that's not how it works my friend. And if it is you need to get out before someone is hurt . 👍
@@albertsteptoe3710 I've been an electrian since 2008 and I've not kill anyone or burn there home down. And I can't find any mensions of consumer units in a room below a bath room in the bs7671 so if you can please give me the regs number I would be grateful
Thanks for the video, But... Why does a plastic water pipe negate the reason for bonding? The bond should be on the consumer side of the stop tap. That's on copper pipe that radiates all around the house. I thought it was for equipotential bonding to make ALL the metalwork the same potential in the event of a failure
That pipework will not provide a direct path to earth if the incoming pipe is plastic or has a plastic insert. However, if that now ‘isolated’ pipework becomes live by a stray live conductor.... I’m pretty sure an RCD would trip (additional protection) if an alternative path to earth was to touch the pipework; but this would imply the source of the current to be protected by an RCD.
@@MS-Patriot2 It's not about a path to earth to 'Trip' or blow a fuse. It's purely in case of a neutral failure IE open circuit to equalise all metalwork that would become live due to the open circuit neutral, It DOES need to be bonded 10mm on the consumer side of the stop tap because the pipework in the property is copper or steel. You only don't need to bond it if the property pipework IS PLASTIC
The gas piping is bonded to the main earth to ensure there can't be a potential (voltage) between it and other earthed (grounded) things in the property, thus avoiding anybody getting an electric shock etc. It is not the source of the earth (ground), that comes from the supply cabling...
Not a good idea to tell the public to remove main fuse on the cut- out which is a sealed unit owned by the area rec . The meter is also connected by a security block provided by the rec which you have advised isn't good and would be preferable to change with longer 25 mm tails . As an electrician you are allowed to work after an issolater after the meter position .
I did electrical installation city and Guilds in 1989 which unfortunately I wasn't able to carry on with now due to health issues but I just wanted to say thanks for sharing the videos that you do. It's great to see the way that safety has changed over the years and the way that you share your journey with these changes has been brilliant to see. About the people who have complained about the adverts all I'm going to say is if they don't like them don't watch the video's. If your not happy with the way the channel is being delivered then it's simple enough at the end of the day. Keep up the great work & great videos and just carry on what your doing & run the channel how u need to
If it's a 70's install, the cpc in 2.5 will be 1 milli, not 1.5.
I would have tucked that slack cable into the ceiling void. You never know when you might need a bit spare.
The reason for sitting the meters so close to the cut out is for the purpose of revenue protection. I asked this question a while back when we had a meter installed. Sometimes the tails from the cut out to the meter run through a solid plastic block to protect the tails.
revenue protection
Alan Lumsden thanks you’re right alan, edited👍🏻
Just a useful piece of information regarding the earthing of the gas meter. The fire grommet will expand under fire conditions but the purpose of sealing any hole from a Gas perspective is so that if, a gas leak occurs in the inset meter box, it won’t make its way into the cavity of the building potentially causing a explosion if ignited. There is a special non set putty that can be purchased. This is why gas pipes are sleeved and sealed one side.
Yes agree and about to write same thing . Been a gas engineer for 27 years. Get yourself some denso mastic putty or fjc from pts or bss. Leaving a hole from the rear of the box into the cavity unsealed is an At Risk situation. And like the comment above if there was a leak ect in the box if left unsealed it could potentially fill the cavity with gas.
I use those same intumescent grommets all the time, but still use a tails gland to give the tails that extra tough protection where they enter the board, both because that's the incoming power only protected by the main fuse and because being much thicker than the other cables they can potentially hold some tension (wonder if they could wear through a grommet given enough time?). Might be over cautious but whatever let's me sleep at night...
I struggle to ascertain the issue with mounting the distribution board near a waste pipe on the basis that 'it might leak in the future'.
If that were a valid statement, would you not install downlights in a living room directly below a bathroom incase 'it leaks in the future'?
I don't recall a section within 'Selection & Erection' entitled 'Suitably siting electrical equipment and accessories in order to compensate for future misfortunes'.
Agreed .... under normal condition s you would not expect toilet, sink, over flow, waste pipe etc to leak
Obviously there should be a suitably siting electrical equipment and accessories in order to compensate for future misfortunes section 👀 oh no, did I just give the IET an idea for the 19th 🙈 🤣
@@mfselectrical6370 You've said it now! 🤣🤣
Also the roof might blow off exposing the cu to the elements 😋
In the same way you would not place power and data together. I would recommend not placing electrical systems near or under water or waste pipes. Its just common sense, would you not agree? An electrical AE would not be happy!
did you drill a hole in a back of the recessed gas box into the cavity wall? That's a big no no (leaking gas can now escape into the cavity)
Nice work I realy mis my time as an electrician but it’s good to see you lads upgrading the work we did back in the day
John Ward did a video on the meter tail / eddy current issue and came to the conclusion it wasn't a problem. However if you're faced with using 2x 20mm holes as the only option for the tails, a slot cut between them makes them the same hole.
Dude another top video as always, make sure to seal round earth cables in gas meter box, especially through cavity walls, because if there was to be a gas leak on the meter it will stop the build up of gas going in to the cavity. 👍
It’s really good that you take time out to make these vids... it’s deffo something I wouldn’t be arsed doing so ignore the haters! I’m sure 95% of people appreciate them and I think that’s the best you’ll ever get these days!
Is that a toilet I see directly above board let's hope it doesn't leak. Good video
Looks of that soil stack, it already does.
The last item to be removed is the toilet cos you never know when you need to go 👍love the video keep em coming
Great video, quick question .... Why did you upgrade the meter tails to 25mm as the service cut out fuse was only 60amp? Surely the original 16mm tails were sufficient, no?
The client wants to add a sub main to the garage at some point and is getting the main fuse upgraded to 100 amp.
Very informative vid again .... obviously I'm going to be an arse and point some bits out only up for discussion ! I would've installed an isolator in that electrical cupboard for 3M tails. With the earth bond for the water, I get where your coming from BUT if you can look around and say that the high percentage of water pipe installation is copper with copper joins etc and the house is of an age where it is more than likely a true copper pipe installation then I would 100% earth bond above that stop cock, especially as the ceiling is down and there is a refurb on. I know the regs say blue pipe installations don't need bonding but I would use common sense and read that as they assume houses of a certain era that will have polypipe sections and some push fit connectors. I just think on that job I would've run it in for peace of mind. Keep up the good work though mate !
I like the way *everyone* commenting on youtube is smarter than *everyone else* commenting on youtube.
I just can’t help being better than everyone else,get over it
@@supersparks9466 ...
What a shocking comment.
Nice video Chris. Really in depth. Was the extra clunk for Bundy’s benefit 🤣🤣.
I’m an electrician in the states. And I’m admiring your two pouches that you work out of on your waist. Are the pouches incorporated on the shorts or are they separate. Also could I get the name of them? I would love to get a set
They are incorporated into the shorts. They also do them on trousers.
Ray - I moved to the UK from the states a year ago. I immediately noticed that just about all trades folk in Europe wear work pants with these pockets - they are referred to as holster pockets. They are brilliant. They are an integral part of the pants, but means that you can kneel down without stabbing yourself Lol. Dewalt make them amongst just about everyone else over here
Are those double insulated tails okay in the ceiling and wall cavity Chris? I've never had to or considered doing it myself but I'm guessing the >50mm reg covers it? I usually fit an isolator or switch/fuse, then SWA or singles in galv conduit or trunking to the board. I guess it's the same as running a 16mm T&E without RCD protection, as long as its buried deep enough in the cavity it will comply. Also I don't tend to upgrade the tails from 16 to 25mm unless calculations require it. Same goes for the main earth. But I sometimes upgrade them if I have to run them in new like you have done. 16mm2 can cope with 60A of course, and the 10mm earth will cope with the PFC. Keep the content coming mate.
Should of mentioned in the video the main fuse is getting upgraded to 100amp and I’ve got to run in a sub main to the garage.
Is that only a UK thing or what? Here in Croatia, Germany, Austria... we have 2MCBs for one room, one for lights and one for sockets most of the time. Now that i moved to UK I am curious, do they seem to put everything on one fuse?
Good video :)
Great video again mate 👍 did you seal the 10mm gas bond coming into that box? Was always taught not install through the rear or side of the box in case of a leak and gas in the cavity. Keep up the good work!!
British gas definitely dont like you putting holes in the back of their boxes even if you seal it with mastic!
You’re right as usual Kurt 👍
Looks like the house is going to have a refurb so seems false economy not to rewire given the cabling could be 40 years old even though it tests out OK.I would consider some sort of waterproof panel above the CU if only to deflect any future leak from the soil pipe.
If a Cooker specifies a minimum rating of 32A and a maximum of 40A do you ask the customer what they would prefer bearing in mind it's their money and their cooker and using a lower rating affects the available power for the cooker?
Like your Network Rail pen, I work on the railway myself.
Interested to see how long you're going to give the install. Surely not 10 years as it's an aging install
You guys some some strange panels in the UK. Fun to see the differences between the UK and US. We don't test things here, wire it up, turn on the power, if the breaker didn't trip its good, move on to the next one! LOL Keep up the good work.
Same in Australia
No testing at all? Not even to make sure you've got an earth/ground present at your sockets, or that the cables weren't damaged during installation, or that your GFCI sockets are tripping when they should?
We used to use a polarity tester for the sockets. Test the RCD function ect. New build flats back in the early 90s we did line to earth insulation resistance test on lights n power final subcirciuts.
Same in Australia?
Just had a look into the fire rated grommets. The particular brand I looked into, which look similar, state the grommets aren't designed for main tail entry. Not sure if this has been brought up in the comments. However, Hager also state making their consumer units fire rated isn't necessary for their boards after extensive testing. But they IP rating would still need to be achieved.
Hope this helps in any way
I like how people watch your videos mate to see how its done then promptly tell you how it should be done properly 😳🙄 great video bud keep em comin 👍
They might well be watching to see how things shouldn't be done, ever thought of that?
Great video I hope he's rewiring the house he has ceilings down would be mad not to rewire at this point
CJR what was the reason for upgrading the meter tails to 25mm2, if the meter has a 60amp fuse? did the new HAGER board have a 60amp main switch? I get that you probably had to replace them anyway for length to the new board. Is the customer going to look at getting his grid supply changed to 100amp? in which chase you're just future proofing the job?
Correct upgrading to 100amp supply
You got TWO pliers! Wow
Great video mate love your channel. Just woundering if you have ever heard of foam causing damage to pvc cables. I've always used it myself for filling holes when sparking. Ive Recently started a with a new firm subcontracting international mains who won't let us use it we use hilti two part gear. Do you reckon it's true that I causes damage or is this just a money making racket?
Polystyrene, which forms the basis of a lot of expanding foams, will break down the plasticisers in the PVC insulation. Over time, this will cause the cable to fail
You pulled the fuse anyway so why not just upgrade tails 1 and 2 and higher the meter like you said?
MY GOD, WHAT IS WITH THE ADVERT AT THE END OF THE VIDEO. Ruined the experience :P (Sarcasm level : 100)
Nice video :)
You crack on with the advertisements mate. Appreciate your content. 👍🏽
You should try the flexi tails they are awesome, so much easier to install.
Recent EICR i completed had 80amp fuse 16mm tails 6mm main earth and 6mm bonding and damage to front of 3036 fuse box no exposed parts on tncs pme supply. I recommend upgrading board to 6way rcbo board 25mm tails 16mm earth and 10mm bonding. Customer is confused as apparently another report from 12months ago doesn't mention anything and states all is ok!! Am I missing something here???
Ryan Kerrigan what codes did you give for the points you mention?
@@solarrover9575 c3 for earthing and c2 for fuse board. But suggested that while installing the new CU just upgrade the tails and bonding. Job done. Am I right I doing so? Views please
@@solarrover9575 I understand main earthing conductor may be fine when using adabatic equation, but for main bonding PME supply states min 10mm therefore surely makes sense to upgrade tails and earty to 25mm 16mm?
Never mind about somebody else's report, the accuracy of some are questionable to say the least. Damage to a consumer unit requires repair or replacement. My price for a consumer unit change includes new tails, new earth and gland.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Yes as does mine Alvin, therefore a new CU would eliminate most of the issues on my report, just doubting myself as you do when customer questions you! Is the 10mm bonding required I would say yes as PME supply.
great video. im a sparky in Australia, why do your drums of cable not have insulated earth cable?
Just to save cost I think mate
Kyle I used to live and work in WA and really liked the sleeved CPC. I believe the reason is that a nailed cable is more likely to be detected.
How come there is no Australian sparky clip on the TH-cam?
Nice video Chris. See you did not have far to go for the little boys room!
i am always wondering is it not good practice to RCD protect meter tails?
Where do you get your hager boards from and how much did it cost you mate. Can you also do a video on how you check for your borrowed neutrals on lights
A borrowed neutral can be identified by carrying out a R1+Rn at each lighting point.
Or insulation resistance between neutrals
That poop transportation tube looks a bit iffy (looking at the external marking). When working on the consumer unit definitely need P.P.E. just in case. 😀😁🤣 Elf and Safety.
Question for you. I'm thinking of becoming a sparky. Is it easy to get your head around fingers because all the testing is confusing me, like how do you know what is "safe" and what isn't.
Thanks Cal.
Yeah it's fairly simple to understand. Learning the regs is easy. The main thing is having good construction skills.
Depends what route you take. Domestic only, or fully qualified level 3 installation electrician?
@@beardedsparks2825 I was thinking about doing domestic installation for now and then level 3 when I felt more comfortable.
@@callumhall9808 level 3 will mean AC theory, that's math heavy and harder to understand than testing 😉
@@beardedsparks2825 Damn, that's me out of the thought of that, Only just managed to pass my maths 2 years ago after failing it by 3 marks in high school. Still don't know how I passed though. LOL
Had a plumber show concern that my gas meter did not have earth bonding and whilst the gas comes in via plastic his reasoning was if the copper pipe becomes live and anyone touches it as it can't go to earth through plastic whoever touches that pipe would? To pacify him I ran an earth wire from the gas meter to the earth terminal block outside the fuse box. He was then happy as Larry????? Oh well.
It's amazing how easily pipework picks up an earth within an installation... Even just going through damp walls. Pipework could be buried in floor. It's too simplistic to assume just because it arrives in plastic that bonding isn't required. It should be tested.
This is true same with push fit water pipes with copper pipe I had a call out someone receiving shocks off metal shower hose. Investigation found shower cable load side earth had been connected into the load live. Plastic push fit used on copper pipe and plastic incoming water pipe shocking
@@Klberts1234 cheers for that it did surprise me given that most sparks do not earth bond when the feed in is plastic. As I said I ran a 10mm earth from the gas pipe to the earth block next to the main fuse as I won't open the fuse box. As I see it the block has a cpc going into the fuse box anyway so it's earthed.
Love the network rail pen 😀
Hi Chris... Why did you choose to fit a consumer unit with SPD?
I would also like to know this, must be prone spikes in voltage
Would also appreciate some justification around this. Perhaps a quote from the risk assessment
My understanding is that a surge protection device is now fitted as standard unless you complete the risk assessment (in the bs7671) to show that it's not required and attach the completed risk assessment to the EIC
@@doomain6769 It's not a requirement in a single dwelling unit, it's a recommendation. The installer has a duty of care to advise the installation owner of the benefits derived from having an SPD fitted but ultimately it's down to the client weather they want it or not.
Surely should have a cut out fuse in meter cupboard now you have run new tails through joist
another great video mate. thanks for showing the busbar technique.lol
Top Job. Great workmanship as always mate.
mmmmmm no bonding on the water due to plastic incoming supply.......i had an niciec guy refuse to sign my electrical work off until i placed two 10mm bonds on to 2 water pipes which (u guessed it, werethe plastic incoming mains 50 mm below) not sure why?..........
Nice one Chris, keep them coming. 👍
Another quality video mate! Ignore the 🛎 🔚s about the adverts, do they even watch TH-cam videos? Tell me one that doesn’t have a few ads! Like the tamper sticker touch, will be using that one!
Great vid, thanks for sharing. Appreciate the time and effort it takes to keep on producing these vids. 🐵
You will find a lot of new build 2 bed houses are wired front and back not up & down
I think up and down is better less confusing
Faster to do on a shit price, that’s why it’s done that way. No fucks given for who or what comes after just rinse & repeat
Cheers guy; got a lovely shock thanks to your boys 😂🤙
L .... you mean you turned off what you thought was up or down,then didn’t test before you touched!!....did you forget the safe isolation procedure? 🤔😂😂
@@guymartin7757 😂😂😂
err. . . is that soil pipe coming out?
Mines a new build and the rings are east/west (clarkson Evans 🙄)
Nice to see you sporting your niceic branded t-shirt since joining?
I came back to watch this video for a second time.
I have no problems with adverts at all this is half hour video completely free of charge people pay £40-100 a month for tv then that has 3 minutes of adverts every 15 minutes
Would love to know the brand, in order to find them online
To the people complaining about adverts; buck up or shut up. The man spends extra time he could be using to get his work done faster for the sake of educating you lot. Nobody works for free. Don't want adverts? There's YT Red, it's only a few per month.
RedTube? On it.
@@thenullco Har har. Cheeky bagger.
I think it's a shame you have to try and justify yourself how you want to run your channel and I think it's terrible someone would question it. Carry on lad.
I don't get any adds on your videos ... Because I pay for premium, my times worth more than watching adds, and moaning about it. Keep up the great vids 👍
I didn’t notice any ads and I don’t pay Google anything!
@@gadgetman36 No I use it for more than just removing the adds another great feature is I can play a podcast and turn the screen off on my phone and I get the premium music.
@@SproutyPottedPlant Well you are just fantastic, you should make a video about it ? 🙊🤣🙊
@@gadgetman36 If you're using an adblocker in your browser (eg: uBlock Origin) you won't see TH-cam ads.
@@havoctrousers Until they bake it in as a first party script or choose to crypto-mine as payment instead or you find out that the ad blocker is cookie stuffing 🤣
Great video Chris
Might have been an idea to ask the energy provider to upgrade the cut-off fuse to 100A, upgrade the distributor tails to 25 mm sq and fit a 100A DP isolator to the consumer tails.
£££££
@@user-wk7wv8rn8h Can't hurt to ask... I'd rather avoid cutting seals on the meter as you could be accused of tampering with the meter.
@@gadgetman36 You can clearly see the meter is sealed, how else do you suppose he got his new 25 mm sq tails upto the new board.
@@gadgetman36 3:53 & 7:44 He definitely cut the meter seal.
Yes they will do it for a few hundred pounds and 6 month after your planned the job in your diary .
And 9 times out of 10 when you call they say we are extremely busy has it got a fuse , well pull it out lol.
Waste of time phoning really.
Advise the customer when done and they can have it done at their leisure .
Do the videos seem quiet to anyone else or is it my shite telly?
@@gadgetman36 lol... or headphones to save boring any females in the house :-)
You really funny and a great electronic i have watch
great video
But what's the regs on drilling joists
Between 0.25 and 0.4 x the joist span 😉
@@beardedsparks2825 that's what I thought lol
What about torque settings in the back of outlets/fitting etc? Not having a dig serious question, great Channel 👍
Not applicable for current regulations. Manufactures don't supply torque requirements. Normally use the old school electrical tightness standards. Ft tight and a tug test.
F***ing tight and can I pull the cable out.
Hi Chris, are you sure the cpc is not 1mm as the 1.67 formula does not apply I’m sure it is 2.4 for 1mm. Love the videos keep them coming
Bang, been meaning to find out the X for 1mm CPC. Top man
Line conductor divided by CPC conductor will tell you what to multiply your reading by. For example 2.5 divided by 1 is 2.5 times the reading on the line conductor. Hope this helps.
Why not do your figure 8 in wagos rather than on your clips for a better connection? :)
He ran out, or didn't have any on the van :-)
Got clips in tester bag, can't be bothered getting the wagos out, think that's it for most of us!
Can you please recommend some led downlights ( at least 400lm ) that are dimmable and you can change the led. Thank you.
Could you imagine getting a call out from the customer saying his worried about his consumer unit because the shit pipe has broke, and arriving along to find the consumer unit destroyed in shit 💩💩🙈🤣🤣😂
No need to upgrade tails or bonds. 6mm gas bond is correct size for main fuse size
He's future proofing it.
When we had a "Smart" meter fitted, they downgraded our main 100A fuse to 60A, something to do with meter tails running through a cavity.
@@leegreveson Depends if a TT system, or TNS
had the same thought and i am no electrician common sence would have left it in the spot where the old one was
Any reason why mounted the cu so high? Will need a step ladder to reach it when it trips? . why fit a spd please don't say niceic advised(nimwit idiots clueless can't think of another one for e or I but the c is for crooks😂) how much do they charge for membership plus there lunch when they come out and visit. I was asked by one of them what does tncs mean on a assessment once. My answer ended with off
Quality vid once again.
Relocating a CU underneath a PVC soil stack. Dear oh dear.
Ha Ha..ya got the new NICEIC logo'd polo shirts i see? like Tom Nagy? looks the part Chris. Well done ;-) You seem to have changed your demeanour and gone posh :-D all pro and all that...great Vid fella...
I was considering becoming an electrician but all the testing just goes over my head 🤔🔌
Testing will make sense in time; its knowing your regs for EICRs which is the hard part
Adam Williams wouldnt worry about it mate, theres thousands of so called fully qualified sparks out there who dont give a toss about testing or the regs come to think of it. What i will say is that our trade seriously over thinks things
Are the line and cpc resistance test he was doing, what he calls the r1's and r2's?
Check out John Ward, his videos will help you to understand what you're testing and why. It's not the actual testing that is difficult, it's knowing what to do when the readings aren't as you'd expect 🙄
@@stevenunn3075 yes, the line is r1 and cpc r2
Oh no, ads.🙄 every channel(close enough) has them, just do you and don't feel it necessary to defend it.
Good video....
Was it a good idea to fit the new board so high up?
Yes
Are you allowed to cut the seal on the meter 🤔
Nope... Unless authorised by the DNO
🤭
@@karlmackenzie827 Like anyone cares lol... ;-)
Yes
You can cut the seal on the cut-out to compile with the EAWR but I don't think you can on the meter without the express permission of the meter provider.
Why L , N and E must go thoug this same hole?
To avoid eddy currents using the metal enclosure like the core of a transformer.... seems a bit OTT, but that’s your regs.
not true for the AM2 they use the megger its a pain in the ass and only got told at the end you can ask the examiner how to set the metre up for each test before hand
Thanks
Surely there is no point to 16 amp ring??
Unless it is a 2.5mm 20A radial...nope lol
@@muzikman2008 May as well just fit a 32a, less confusing to the next spark?
@@michaelsimpson6603 you can't, if not a 32A final ring, then it needs to ba a 20A radial instead, only in 2.5mm2 protected by a 20A Mcb type B. See BS7671
16A or less is acceptable on a 2.5mm2 T&E providing volts drop and length of cable is met.. Etc...
@@muzikman2008 The circuit he showed, is a ring final.
Hi Chris great video again. Take no notice of the wingers or the critics. in the real world where we work that's how it works
Really? So how it works is installing consumer units under bathrooms and next to water pipes . ?
Well pardon me but 22 years on the game and unfortunately that's not how it works my friend.
And if it is you need to get out before someone is hurt . 👍
@@albertsteptoe3710 I've been an electrian since 2008 and I've not kill anyone or burn there home down. And I can't find any mensions of consumer units in a room below a bath room in the bs7671 so if you can please give me the regs number I would be grateful
could the consumer unit be lower chap?
@@richardwalsh5882 Unless its an occupant with a disability, and a new build?
Might have to extend all the cables then
Thanks for the video, But... Why does a plastic water pipe negate the reason for bonding? The bond should be on the consumer side of the stop tap. That's on copper pipe that radiates all around the house. I thought it was for equipotential bonding to make ALL the metalwork the same potential in the event of a failure
That pipework will not provide a direct path to earth if the incoming pipe is plastic or has a plastic insert. However, if that now ‘isolated’ pipework becomes live by a stray live conductor.... I’m pretty sure an RCD would trip (additional protection) if an alternative path to earth was to touch the pipework; but this would imply the source of the current to be protected by an RCD.
@@MS-Patriot2 It's not about a path to earth to 'Trip' or blow a fuse. It's purely in case of a neutral failure IE open circuit to equalise all metalwork that would become live due to the open circuit neutral, It DOES need to be bonded 10mm on the consumer side of the stop tap because the pipework in the property is copper or steel. You only don't need to bond it if the property pipework IS PLASTIC
here in the us we do not ground to gas pipe just water and to ground rods in the ground. i thank grounding to gas piping is very unsafe
The gas piping is bonded to the main earth to ensure there can't be a potential (voltage) between it and other earthed (grounded) things in the property, thus avoiding anybody getting an electric shock etc. It is not the source of the earth (ground), that comes from the supply cabling...
aaaauuuuuuddiiiiiioooooooooooo
Cor! Green CPCs! Old installation much!
Show me in the regs were it says that you can't
Not a good idea to tell the public to remove main fuse on the cut- out which is a sealed unit owned by the area rec . The meter is also connected by a security block provided by the rec which you have advised isn't good and would be preferable to change with longer 25 mm tails . As an electrician you are allowed to work after an issolater after the meter position .
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Hi Chris, could you please send me link for piggy bank on insulation resistance test.. very interested to get it