Very good video. Well explained! Once the laser tool is clamped in place, and the beam is aim down as close as possible to the rear sprocket, then the beam will, when rotated upward will shine a perfectly straight path. That path will be aligned with the rear sprocket. If the beam shines at exactly the same relative position on the Chain Link at the front sprocket location, then the two sprockets are perfectly aligned. That's the objective. This all depends on the laser tool being made PERFECT. The tool can be tested by clapping it on a known straight edge such as a heavy-duty Carpenter ruler or similar to test the tools accuracy. After alignment, one could check the accuracy of the alignment marks on the motorcycle for interest. It's probable, that very few markings on any motorcycle will be perfect. I have no vested interest in this product.
Thanks for the reply. I would think there would be a couple variables to contend with measuring the chain alignment this way. First off the chain monkey has to be accurately straight on the mounting position. Like you said you could check that with a straight edge. They manufacture so many of these I would think that they would be off slightly towards the end of the manufacturing process. Second off the hashmarks on the motorcycles are in the same boat as some of them would be off after several frames being manufactured. Don’t know if this is all true but that’s just my hunch.
I agree. A chain has more flexibility than a flat belt so a belt allignment needs to be perfect. A very small misalignment on a chain drive might cause earlier sproket wear but it also depends on frequency of lubrication. Failure to keep chain well lubricated is probably the biggest factor in wear for most motorcycle chains and particularly sprokets. Yet..... it takes only a few minutes!
Thanks for the video! I got the Motion Pro recently and after using that tool, the hashmarks are just a bit off. I actually trust the tool better than I do the hashmarks because those hashmarks can move even without the axle actually moving. This is on a 2022 Ninja 400.
I actually had trouble trusting the lazer monkey when in all actuality it is laser right on. If you think about it, the hashmarks can be off, when manufacturing thousands of motorcycles with hash marks.
@@JayyBird93 I have looked at that, but I never did use it. I sold that motorcycle in 2020 bought me a trike motorcycle. Because I fell over on my triumph. That when I realized I was losing my ballance
You should do a follow up video and check the wheel alignment with some string after aligning them with the laser too check whether the laser or hash marks are more reliable.
@@windsurfed1 I have always gotten it close with factory marks then I fine tune the alignment by eye. Hasn't failed me yet, been doing it like this for 22 years.
Agreed! I sold the monkey. Old school alignment marks on frame works well for me also. Using the Monkey was time consuming because I was so meticulous and there was to many variables placing the monkey in the right spot. Lazer was not always the brightest just when you needed it. Using the monkey and getting it just right made the alignment marks on the frame not quite right, and I was disturbed the alignment marks not being exactly equal. By using the alignment marks, I've gotten 17158 miles on the chain with hardly any wear/strech. Course I always keep it over maintained. Also when Doing 60, 70, 80, + mph, I feel better mentally with the frame alignment method.
@@urbanedgeautodetailing its hard to beat the old eyecrometer..if it looks wrong it probably is,🤔🤐😬😃🙂cheers,all the best to all, from, Auckland,New Zealand.
I've obsessed over my alignment more than I'm willing to admit. I have a new 2018 gsxr 1000r I bought used with 1000 on it. I put a higher quality chain and Sprocket combo. I have slightly different readings around the sprocket. I'm curious. Could you try in 4 different areas on your sprocket? Because of the rubber V blocks on my 2018 gsxr 1000r sprocket housing it's not perfect. I've stopped obsessing over it for now. Saying this while watching a laser alignment video 😁
OK, first off I do not own that motorcycle anymore. I don’t own a motorcycle with chain and sprocket anymore. I was not satisfied with the laser monkey measurement. Even though it seems to be accurate. I, like you, was obsessed with getting the best mileage out of my chain with the proper alignment. I went back to the old fashion way of lining the chain up with the hash marks on the side of the frame. That has always worked for me in the past. By riding easy I was able to get 22,000 miles out of the chain before I sold it. I had a triumph mechanic look at the chain and sprocket. He had no idea how many miles I had on it. He told me it look good that I didn’t need a chain and sprockets. Then I told him how many miles was on it. He freaked out.
Thanks for sharing this interesting review. Did you go with the Triumph setting or the chain monkey setting? I wonder if the manufacturer has any permissible allowance built in to their swingarm ‘permissible allowance’, wand the chain monkey (if reliable, fitted correctly and functioning correctly) will add some greater fine tolerance which may be unnecessary….. I’m new to all this stuff, but you said you’ve been doing this manufacturer method of wheel/chain setting….. have you had any issues at al doing things that way? I’m not persuaded that I need such tight tolerance , even if this was possible using a plastic, loose fitting tool…… 👏👏🙏🙏
I bought the laser monkey with high hopes. I believe it would be a good tool. However, I went back to the manufactures way of adjusting the chain. I guess I’m just from the old school and that’s the way I’ve done it for years. Using the laser monkey, then checking the rear axle hash marks didn’t lineup to my satisfaction. I do a lot of experimenting. I went back to old-school by checking the chain slack with my finger up and down on the lower portion of the chain. That has always worked, and I am mentally comfortable doing it that way. It is not a super critical adjustment. Long as it’s not way out of adjustment. You should be good for miles and miles and miles.
@@windsurfed1 thanks again, I’m totally happy to take your considered view and experience, plus that of the Suzuki handbook, which uses those axle markers. The 2mm or so between the marks indicate to me that there remains an acceptable difference between sides, so perfection isn’t required here, just a close inspection that the adjustment results in a closely similar location in n drive/non driven sides. All the best! 🙏
I would have thought that if the chain was out just at the front,would it not suggest the two sprockets wern,t exactly aligned,ie rear one over to the right abit,if one adjuster was to far fowards the bend would be at the back of chain by sprocket
Well, I am Kinda in agreement with you. There is something about the sprockets not being properly lined up to begin with. Probably because the frame of the bike is out of alignment Slightly. The more I experimented with the alignment the more possible variations appeared.
Thanks for that,sorry so long to reply I don't check my e mails much,great review on the laser by the way,it looked ok but needed to be a bit more rigid I think,great idea tho,I would probably use one,if I had one,its got to be as accurate as other methods,cheers,great vid,look forward to more,all the best,from, Auckland, New Zealand 😀 👍 😊
@@jmc2567 I have since sold that motorcycle and bought a different one. Wasn’t real thrilled with the laser monkey I still like the old fashion way of lining up the marks on the rear wheel axle.
Attention!!! I had the same problem, and finally, after several physique measurements, I realised that the laser is not correctly calibrated!!! It’s cheap 'made in China' rubbisch!!
what if you measure with a veneers callipers the distance to the back to the axle, if one side is we'll say 10 mm then the other side should also be 10mm right? providing the chain is straight
BlueKnight001 I am thinking that there is 10 ways to measure the chain slack each method has its flaws. Because machine tolerances are different on each bike. No one way is a guarantee that it’s perfect. But I like perfect,I can’t get enough of it, but at the same time I could never achieve it. The way you suggested, I will try the next time, just to check it out.
@@windsurfed1 ive tried it myself but as you say the tolerance are different from bike to bike, and plus because there is welds on my rear axle ends that would throw it off too but I think ive seen something good which is probably only for newer bikes like 07 or 08 upwards. They are called "lighttech chain adjusters and have measurements by the millimeter on them. Check them out
Looks like they don't make one for my bike. Doing some more research on the subject for the 2016 Tiger 800 XRX I'm running into the same issue, manufactures and not making chain block specific for the 2016 Tiger 800 xrx. Probably because manufactures are more geared towards Street bikes and less towards adventured bikes. Would be nice to get a Lighttech adjuster though. Thanks for the Info though!
@@windsurfed1 no worries, thanks for replying. I agree that the marks on the axle aren't great anf I also found that my square washer wasnt machined square so when torqued up it appears to be lob sided making it a few mm towards the front and bottom facing the rear. I don't know else to use other than a good ruler to measure distance like I mentioned before and then tighten your chain to spec
Yeah the same company made a shitty chain slack adjustment tool that didn’t tell you what you were adjusting to it give you a range from 25 to 37 mm LOL
I guess im randomly asking but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Kane Kashton Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
The laser monkey alignment dubrey Thirty quid lighter of pocket, Got me a gadget to attach to the sprocket; The laser shines through, The alignment looks true, But it gets all bollocksed up when I knock it 🐒
I would like to warn everybody: this tool does not work properly, it is a non calibrated tool. You can check the deviation of the tool by fixing it on the border of a table.
Ya know, you could be correct. I eventually went back to the old fashioned way and used the hash marks. I guess I just like the old school better. Don’t know how much more accurate it is than the laser monkey.
@@windsurfed1 anyways there is always a little play that is acceptable. U cannot always get them 100/100 accurate. I have always used the marks on the bike and never had any issues. Always got around 30K km on my chains.
@@MonsieurMotocyclette I am right there with you. I got thousands of more miles on my chains, than most people. Like you, I do not use the laser monkey anymore, and just continue to old fashion way using the hashmarks on the frame. One day I took my motorcycle down to the local triumph shop and ask the mechanic to come out and look at my chain and guess how many miles was on it. At that time I had 22,000 miles on it he looked at it and guessed it had about five or 6000 on it. When I told him it had 22,000 miles on it, he was shocked.
Very good video. Well explained! Once the laser tool is clamped in place, and the beam is aim down as close as possible to the rear sprocket, then the beam will, when rotated upward will shine a perfectly straight path. That path will be aligned with the rear sprocket. If the beam shines at exactly the same relative position on the Chain Link at the front sprocket location, then the two sprockets are perfectly aligned. That's the objective. This all depends on the laser tool being made PERFECT. The tool can be tested by clapping it on a known straight edge such as a heavy-duty Carpenter ruler or similar to test the tools accuracy. After alignment, one could check the accuracy of the alignment marks on the motorcycle for interest.
It's probable, that very few markings on any motorcycle will be perfect. I have no vested interest in this product.
Thanks for the reply. I would think there would be a couple variables to contend with measuring the chain alignment this way. First off the chain monkey has to be accurately straight on the mounting position. Like you said you could check that with a straight edge. They manufacture so many of these I would think that they would be off slightly towards the end of the manufacturing process. Second off the hashmarks on the motorcycles are in the same boat as some of them would be off after several frames being manufactured. Don’t know if this is all true but that’s just my hunch.
I agree. A chain has more flexibility than a flat belt so a belt allignment needs to be perfect. A very small misalignment on a chain drive might cause earlier sproket wear but it also depends on frequency of lubrication. Failure to keep chain well lubricated is probably the biggest factor in wear for most motorcycle chains and particularly sprokets. Yet..... it takes only a few minutes!
Thanks for the video! I got the Motion Pro recently and after using that tool, the hashmarks are just a bit off. I actually trust the tool better than I do the hashmarks because those hashmarks can move even without the axle actually moving. This is on a 2022 Ninja 400.
I actually had trouble trusting the lazer monkey when in all actuality it is laser right on. If you think about it, the hashmarks can be off, when manufacturing thousands of motorcycles with hash marks.
@@windsurfed1I understand you went back to the old school method but have you tried the Motion Pro alignment tool?
@@JayyBird93 I have looked at that, but I never did use it. I sold that motorcycle in 2020 bought me a trike motorcycle. Because I fell over on my triumph. That when I realized I was losing my ballance
You should do a follow up video and check the wheel alignment with some string after aligning them with the laser too check whether the laser or hash marks are more reliable.
Benjamin Brewer. That is a good idea I will do that
@@windsurfed1 I have always gotten it close with factory marks then I fine tune the alignment by eye. Hasn't failed me yet, been doing it like this for 22 years.
Agreed! I sold the monkey. Old school alignment marks on frame works well for me also. Using the Monkey was time consuming because I was so meticulous and there was to many variables placing the monkey in the right spot. Lazer was not always the brightest just when you needed it. Using the monkey and getting it just right made the alignment marks on the frame not quite right, and I was disturbed the alignment marks not being exactly equal. By using the alignment marks, I've gotten 17158 miles on the chain with hardly any wear/strech. Course I always keep it over maintained. Also when Doing 60, 70, 80, + mph, I feel better mentally with the frame alignment method.
@@urbanedgeautodetailing its hard to beat the old eyecrometer..if it looks wrong it probably is,🤔🤐😬😃🙂cheers,all the best to all, from, Auckland,New Zealand.
I've obsessed over my alignment more than I'm willing to admit. I have a new 2018 gsxr 1000r I bought used with 1000 on it. I put a higher quality chain and Sprocket combo. I have slightly different readings around the sprocket. I'm curious. Could you try in 4 different areas on your sprocket? Because of the rubber V blocks on my 2018 gsxr 1000r sprocket housing it's not perfect. I've stopped obsessing over it for now. Saying this while watching a laser alignment video 😁
OK, first off I do not own that motorcycle anymore. I don’t own a motorcycle with chain and sprocket anymore. I was not satisfied with the laser monkey measurement. Even though it seems to be accurate. I, like you, was obsessed with getting the best mileage out of my chain with the proper alignment. I went back to the old fashion way of lining the chain up with the hash marks on the side of the frame. That has always worked for me in the past. By riding easy I was able to get 22,000 miles out of the chain before I sold it. I had a triumph mechanic look at the chain and sprocket. He had no idea how many miles I had on it. He told me it look good that I didn’t need a chain and sprockets. Then I told him how many miles was on it. He freaked out.
Thanks for sharing this interesting review. Did you go with the Triumph setting or the chain monkey setting? I wonder if the manufacturer has any permissible allowance built in to their swingarm ‘permissible allowance’, wand the chain monkey (if reliable, fitted correctly and functioning correctly) will add some greater fine tolerance which may be unnecessary…..
I’m new to all this stuff, but you said you’ve been doing this manufacturer method of wheel/chain setting….. have you had any issues at al doing things that way?
I’m not persuaded that I need such tight tolerance , even if this was possible using a plastic, loose fitting tool…… 👏👏🙏🙏
I bought the laser monkey with high hopes. I believe it would be a good tool. However, I went back to the manufactures way of adjusting the chain. I guess I’m just from the old school and that’s the way I’ve done it for years. Using the laser monkey, then checking the rear axle hash marks didn’t lineup to my satisfaction. I do a lot of experimenting. I went back to old-school by checking the chain slack with my finger up and down on the lower portion of the chain. That has always worked, and I am mentally comfortable doing it that way. It is not a super critical adjustment. Long as it’s not way out of adjustment. You should be good for miles and miles and miles.
@@windsurfed1 thanks again, I’m totally happy to take your considered view and experience, plus that of the Suzuki handbook, which uses those axle markers. The 2mm or so between the marks indicate to me that there remains an acceptable difference between sides, so perfection isn’t required here, just a close inspection that the adjustment results in a closely similar location in n drive/non driven sides.
All the best! 🙏
I would have thought that if the chain was out just at the front,would it not suggest the two sprockets wern,t exactly aligned,ie rear one over to the right abit,if one adjuster was to far fowards the bend would be at the back of chain by sprocket
Well, I am Kinda in agreement with you. There is something about the sprockets not being properly lined up to begin with. Probably because the frame of the bike is out of alignment Slightly. The more I experimented with the alignment the more possible variations appeared.
Thanks for that,sorry so long to reply I don't check my e mails much,great review on the laser by the way,it looked ok but needed to be a bit more rigid I think,great idea tho,I would probably use one,if I had one,its got to be as accurate as other methods,cheers,great vid,look forward to more,all the best,from, Auckland, New Zealand 😀 👍 😊
@@jmc2567 I have since sold that motorcycle and bought a different one. Wasn’t real thrilled with the laser monkey I still like the old fashion way of lining up the marks on the rear wheel axle.
Attention!!! I had the same problem, and finally, after several physique measurements, I realised that the laser is not correctly calibrated!!! It’s cheap 'made in China' rubbisch!!
what if you measure with a veneers callipers the distance to the back to the axle, if one side is we'll say 10 mm then the other side should also be 10mm right? providing the chain is straight
BlueKnight001 I am thinking that there is 10 ways to measure the chain slack each method has its flaws. Because machine tolerances are different on each bike. No one way is a guarantee that it’s perfect. But I like perfect,I can’t get enough of it, but at the same time I could never achieve it. The way you suggested, I will try the next time, just to check it out.
@@windsurfed1 ive tried it myself but as you say the tolerance are different from bike to bike, and plus because there is welds on my rear axle ends that would throw it off too but I think ive seen something good which is probably only for newer bikes like 07 or 08 upwards. They are called "lighttech chain adjusters and have measurements by the millimeter on them. Check them out
BlueKnight001 Will do
Looks like they don't make one for my bike. Doing some more research on the subject for the 2016 Tiger 800 XRX I'm running into the same issue, manufactures and not making chain block specific for the 2016 Tiger 800 xrx. Probably because manufactures are more geared towards Street bikes and less towards adventured bikes. Would be nice to get a Lighttech adjuster though. Thanks for the Info though!
@@windsurfed1 no worries, thanks for replying. I agree that the marks on the axle aren't great anf I also found that my square washer wasnt machined square so when torqued up it appears to be lob sided making it a few mm towards the front and bottom facing the rear. I don't know else to use other than a good ruler to measure distance like I mentioned before and then tighten your chain to spec
With all that flex and Chinese quality I wouldn’t trust it to line up anything. Thanks for the video though. I realise I don’t want one.
Cuzzazbuzz. I went back to the old way of doing things lining up the hashmarks. I sold the laser monkey on eBay. Much prefer the old method.
Yeah the same company made a shitty chain slack adjustment tool that didn’t tell you what you were adjusting to it give you a range from 25 to 37 mm LOL
I guess im randomly asking but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Tony Sutton instablaster =)
@Kane Kashton Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
The laser monkey alignment dubrey
Thirty quid lighter of pocket,
Got me a gadget to attach to the sprocket;
The laser shines through,
The alignment looks true,
But it gets all bollocksed up when I knock it 🐒
*ps I’m keeping mine 😅
Yes, I hear you. They can be useful. I don’t have a chain Motorcycle anymore so I don’t have it but it was nice.
Everyone makes mistakes... But, do I trust Kawasaki Heavy Industries more, or less than "Chain Monkeys"?
Good question. After that video, I don’t think I ever use the chain monkey again I just use the hash marks as in “old school“
I would like to warn everybody: this tool does not work properly, it is a non calibrated tool. You can check the deviation of the tool by fixing it on the border of a table.
Ya know, you could be correct. I eventually went back to the old fashioned way and used the hash marks. I guess I just like the old school better. Don’t know how much more accurate it is than the laser monkey.
@@windsurfed1 anyways there is always a little play that is acceptable. U cannot always get them 100/100 accurate. I have always used the marks on the bike and never had any issues. Always got around 30K km on my chains.
@@MonsieurMotocyclette I am right there with you. I got thousands of more miles on my chains, than most people. Like you, I do not use the laser monkey anymore, and just continue to old fashion way using the hashmarks on the frame. One day I took my motorcycle down to the local triumph shop and ask the mechanic to come out and look at my chain and guess how many miles was on it. At that time I had 22,000 miles on it he looked at it and guessed it had about five or 6000 on it. When I told him it had 22,000 miles on it, he was shocked.