How are the cold flow characteristics of this oil? Amsoil excels in that area. You're asking a lot from just film strength if the Driven oil falls short to Amsoil in this area. High zinc content can also ruin cats. That might be an issue if oil consumption is high.
Question Auto; Im going to change brake pads on my GT350. You have recommended Hawk and Ferodo in the past. To reduce brake dust and enjoy my driving experience, which would you recommend over the other? Thanks, love the channel.
i would say Hawk 5.0 for the street but if you push the car very aggressive they do not hold the heat as well as a Carbotech race pad, they will fade but you need to be driving very hard on challenging back roads for that to happen. these cars are a bit heavy for the 5.0 is a good all around pad.
Im pretty sure you read the manual but the 2019 owners supplement says this. Install the oil filter housing. Torque to 16-19 lb.ft (22-26 Nm) using a torque wrench. On page 30 Thanks for the guide.
what do u think of the 2019+ shelby gt350 quality control? is the engine more solid than previous version? what is ur opinion on engine failure/lock up some ppl had?
body and paint is still horrible and embarrassing but the drivetrain is stout no issues, the very small isolated issues you are talking about are purely isolated and many of those cars were abused, modified and ECU tuned. For the thousands of these engines produced i bet less than 1% have had issues and considering the nature of this engine being a hand built race motor thats not bad at all. All manufactures have engine failures including some of the greatest from Porsche, Ferrari and AMG it just happens.
@@autofanaticcars Thanks for your email, I was going to use this driven oil in a 2014 shelby gt500 i only have 600 miles from new will stick to amsoil keep up the good information.
What would you consider is a “pro-longed” period of time for sitting where issues with wear, moisture, corrosion, etc. would start occurring? I love driving my cars and don’t want them to sit too long without being driven, especially not getting completely warmed up.
well this winter mine has been sitting for a while now ive been using it more often as the days have been milder,. the few things i liked about what i learned about Driven was the ani foaming and the rust inhibitor blend, seemed smart by design but i have no proof or long term feedback personally yet on this oil. if you get time this week give Driven a call they will really take time to talk with you about their product.
Auto Fanatic I’ll definitely check them out! I have some upcoming fluid changes to do, so it’s definitely a good time to see what potentially better options are out there. Thank you for responding!
this made very little mess when i did it, i packed the area with shop towels and it was super easy, the funnel ive used sometimes have gotten jammed up in there and made more of a mess.
An easy trick cut the bottom out of a empty Oil bottle. Then put the spout in your valve cover opening just pour the oil into the old oil container. Instant funnel easy pouring with no mess.
the FR50 is designed for the Coyote and Voodoo engines so i see no reason this wont work on street or track respectively. Reach out to Drive Racing direct they will spend time discussing this with you further over the phone.
Hope that you install a quality oil catch devise soon. And as always thanks for a informative video. My 2017 GT350 first oil change at 1000 miles then every 3K after that, Used MC oil with out any oil burn , the catch can on the passenger side collects about 2oz . No track days My old 2008 GT500 had 35K miles when sold and I used the Castrol Edge oil had 10 track days never had any problems. I did not send the oil out for analysis however I did do a smear test looking for glitter in the oil . I live in the Phoenix, AZ so we have low humidity for most of the year, summers are brutal on the whole car.
Did you use ramps to get the car onto your wood blocks? Also, how high are those wood blocks? I’m thinking of using the same method to install SLiPLO on my Gt350R.
I’m going to pass this video on to my uncle he just bought a brand new navigator and I’m wondering if it has the same cartridge, and those navigators aren’t cheap !He’s a lot like you and I he really takes good care of all his cars
i know this is late post . but have you looked into the amsoil zrod that has 1400ppm of zinc and rust and corrosion protection ? just curious on your thoughts . thanks
I got the AMZoil for my GT350R - amazingly I convinced the ford mechanics to change my oil on a service maintenance warranty appointment. I'll try the FR50 next time since I only frive 6 months in the year.
Amazing information, never thought about what type of oil war vehicles use. Especially if they are going to be stored for such a long time. If this oil your talking about is for race cars that sit for awhile which oil would you say is the absolute best for any daily driven car that doesnt have a race engine??
What about warranty it will be voided by ford if you use any other type of oil then manufacture recommended if your engin will blow up having oil of your choice in it ?
I have a 19 GT350R now, had a 17 GT350. I changed the oil on the 17 at 500, 1500, 3000, 5000 then every 2500 miles. Total miles before I sold the 17 was 13.400 with a total of 6 track days, using 1 quart between oil changes after the 5000-mile mark. Used Motorcraft until the 10,000-mile oil change then went with Amsoil. With the 19 I switched to Amsoil at the 500-mile oil change, I will be changing oil this week at 1500 miles and sticking with Amsoil for now. I have all the records of the Blackstone Tests from the 500-mile change on the 17 to the 500-mile change on the 19 if anyone would like to see them. Please let us know if you find out the grade of the Driven Racing Oil and your Blackstone results from said oil. I'll be tracking the 19 at least once a month and would give Driven a shot if it's a superior oil. The car isn't a daily driver and not a garage queen either, I put about 600 miles a month on the car living here in FLA. I will be tracking the car this weekend at Homestead.
Hi Scott thanks for sharing and if you have time scan those records and email to me, i would love to use them for a full blog on my web site to share with others.
enjoying your great info....new R owner....still on a truck from texas ....never seen an R in person im excited...the driver scuffed up the rim.....hes paying out of pocket 6200.00 from ford. 2017 only has 700 miles on it...should have it tuesday
yikes sorry on the rim glad they are fixing it, your in for a huge surprise once you get the R and get some seat time please keep in touch direct once you get it
Next time. Use a one gallon zip lock storage bag around the the canister after loosening a bit. place bag around canister spin off canister and allow the oil and canister with filter to fall into the bag. No need for shop towels and no mess.
good idea but filming this with an expensive camera and tripod gear in your way makes doing this 1000 times harder. the shop towels worked better than the funnel ive used in the past but the bag idea seems smart and il try that next time.
Did my first oil change to AmsOil @ 700 miles but wanted to come back to this video and see if your recommendation has changed to Driven as a better overall option.
You forgot to do the taste test. In all seriousness I have heard rumblings the Ford will not cover an engine that uses Amsoil. Is this dealer dependent or what? What is Fords take on the Driven FR50 oil?
biggest issue I have seen with Ford not covering engines are cars that were tuned, E85, heavily modified or abused in many cases. Of course there are isolated cases when the cars are stock and sorta maintained but like i mention in this video the engine is a race engine no way around that so you need to be diligent on the upkeep.
Hey Auto, just wanted to ask if you've tried Soft99 Japan King of Gloss Dark Color Car Wax? Reason why I ask is because I know you aren't a big fan of soft99 fusso coats smell and I wanted to let you know that king of gloss is 100% better in that department, and it still has the amazing properties of fusso coat, just won't last as long, it will last as long as the collinite you use. Just like fusso coat, a little goes a long way and it will give you amazing depth, richness, gloss, the amazing water behavior, and self-cleaning properties. Trust me, it's worth it.
I bought the other Fusso waxed i just have not had time to test them out and since the Fusso is picky with cold ambient temps im waiting for spring weather to do it. Been testing the Griots 3-1 Ceramic for 8 weeks so far still doing more testing before i finish the video on that product.
the R drives awesome its so much more livable where I drive than the 17 was for sure. I do like it. More driving videos coming but the temps are jus too cold to be driving hard with the Cup 2 tires its just not safe. I am selling the blue R to buy a Heritage Edition R
In the US you guys have oils we do not have in Europe. Well, at least I have never seen them here in Portugal. I tried Lucas Oil a few years ago in my car. Was very expensive and I didnt see nothing special to be honest. I just went back to Shell and Petronas. Of course independently of the brand, I only use oil that meets the specifications for my car. I have never seen an oil that meets so many specifications for so many brands like Selenia. Its made by Petronas.
ZDDP does not work in modern engines that's why most oil companies don't use it anymore. ZDDP only works on pushrods and flat tappet cams, does absolutly nothing on bearings or cylinder walls. So those of you that have an LS or an old porsche then yes use all the ZDDP you can.......
@@autofanaticcars Yup. Fair enough. I am going to likely go with Amsoil - have to find a Canadian source that I can buy in bulk / by the cases :P And filters!
i did weeks back on my Alfa Romeo, its a solid oil and i always stand by it, but i only use their Signature grade i have no experience with their other grades.
I have a scat pack challenger and every oil change with a tire rotation is 126 bucks. The rotation is less than 20. Tech told me I have to use high performance oil. Idk if thats true. Nobody said the oil changes would be so expensive.
hope your kidding on that if you think having the hacks at a dealer work on my car will preserve any warranty. the first and last time i had them do my oil where i brought them my oil and filter they seized the filter onto the oil pump go watch that video and youll see why i do not let others work on my cars ever.
@@autofanaticcars i get it really i do but i have a lifetime power train warranty that states all maintenance including oil changes must be done by dealer and the way these gt350 engines are going up i cant afford to buy a new engine myself if anything happens. without watching your other video im sure the dealer rectified the issue as well, plus the oil filter seizing was a very common issue with these cars as well
Fuel in the oil has nothing to do with oil quality and everything to do how the engine is started and let idle and used for short runs in cold conditions.
Fuel in the oil would seem to be a serious concern. Fuel (gasoline) can act as a solvent and when it comes into contact and mixes with engine oil, it could dilute and change the properties of the oil which in turn could be harmful to the engine. I could be wrong on this though. Peace
yes that was always my understanding that when oil breaks down it looses its protection properties and more fuel gets in the crankcase over time. can not believe in 700 miles how bad it smelled.
Just a warning. If your catalytic converters are still on the exhaust, the zinc will plug them. It’s the reason they have heavily reduced zinc in modern oils. If you use a catch can it helps reduce how much oil is burned.
I’m not looking to debate the merits of Motorcraft oil. I know there are better oils. My GT350 has burned less than 2 quarts over 10,300 miles using MC. My point is that if your car used 2 gts. in 700 miles, I would be concerned about the health of the engine.
you are very lucky if thats all your burned with the MC oil so if its working for you then no need to switch. these engine tolerances can also have something to do with wear and tear in the early stages. My engine is the V2 which has the new block and more oil passages i think. I had dozens of fans who watch this channel run their GT350 at the track right after a fresh oil change withMC and their engines blew up after a few hours pounding it, kinda scary when i saw all those photos from various cars all over the country.
The Motorcraft Oil is probably just a Group 3 which means that it is Molecularly-Modified Dino Oil without a real synthetic base (POA base) which was common before Castol ruined "Synthetic oil" in 1997. That Amsoil Signature is one of 3 domestic brands that is a real Synthetic Oil. The AMSOIL Signature, Redline and Royal Purple are Group 4/5 which means they have a PAO and Ester (POE) base. True racing oils (which you cannot buy) have no detergents because they only have to last one race. Instead of detergents, they have more Synthetic Base. Those of you that see Mobil 1 stickers on that NASCAR, LOL. Mobil 1 is just a Group 3 and the NASCAR oil is a custom Group 4/5. I've read all I can about Driven FR50 and there is no info on their site about what Group oil it is. There is a graph about having lower detergent level and that is typical of a racing oil. Some detergent is necessary for street driving. The higher detergent, the less lubrication. Please inquire to Driven about what Group Driven FR50 actually is. It's priced competitively with the top 3 Group 4/5 domestic oils. Keep in mind that oils made in Japan and Germany that are labeled "Synthetic" must by law be at least Group 4 real Syn oils. But Congrats on leaving the Motorcraft oil camp. No dealer or manufacturer uses bulk Group 4, 5 or Group 4/5 oil or factory fill.
hopefully someone from Driven will comment tomorrow or this week on your question, that is a good point to address. Like i said this is the very first time using it and I was suggested by many pro builders in Nascar to use it so i wanted to share with you guys something new.
Driven is probably a Street Version" of a NACAR oil. You must make some compromises in that this oil is going to stay in a crankcase far longer than a true race oil and must have some detergent. And because of this lower detergent level, you might have to change it more often. 5000 miles max. The limit is going to be either the poor state of OE filters with their bypass valves or the exhaustion of the additive package over time. But I can see what Driven is trying to accomplish, and I fully endorse it for a true High-Performance car. The mainsteam U'S' oil companies have fooled the consumer with cheap Group 3 oils that have had the real synthetic base removed, which was 75% of the bottle. Before Castrol Syntec ruined Synthetic Oil, and everyone followed the downgrade, all Synthetic Oil since AMSOIL in 1972 (to 1997) had a True Synthetic base. (Usually PAO). That $6 a quart Syn most people buy costs a lot less with just a modified Dino-oil base. The worst overpriced Group 3 are Castrol Edge and Pennzoil Platinum. Might as well pay a couple bucks more for REDLINE, AMSOIL Signature, Royal Purple. Or Driven when we find out if it is Group 4/5. For most people who overpay for Group 3, they might as well buy Walmart Super-Syn for $17.00 for 5 quarts. It's the same as Amazon Basics or MAG 1, made by Warren Distributing and is rated SN+. I use it in my 3 Priuses but they are easy on oil. If you race, tow, or have a turbo, the ability to handle higher temps (Flash Point) makes Group 4 or 5 more appropriate.
yeah i usually change 3k intervals, with my Alfa Romeo they suggested the Penzoil and it burned like crazy, switched to Amsoil and not a drop burned since and a much quieter valve train. i think with this stuff you gotta see what works best for your engine and needs. i just enjoy learning about new options and more fun to share on the channel now
Okay first of all i enjoy your videos. To correct you Nascar dropped the Winston Cup Series in 2003 because of it's association with tobacco products & Nascar wanted to expand to other markets. Due to a new congressional mandate, the tobacco companies were no longer able to advertise on TV. In 2004 Nascar cup series became the Nascar Nextel Cup Series. Now, my father-in-law is good friends with Roger Penske. It so happened he asked Roger this question regarding engine oil a few years ago & Roger told him if your sponsor is a oil company which in the case of Joey Lagono's team is Pennzoil do you think they would want them to use a different brand of oil? The answer is NO. Roger said Pennzoil formulates an oil for their race engines. In the case of Kevin Harvick who one of the main sponsor's is Mobil 1 oil same thing holds true. Racing oil used in Nascar engines has a total different molecular structure. I have never seen Driven FR50 decals on any Nascar race cars.
What an absolutely beautiful car. It looks flawless. Thanks for sharing!
How are the cold flow characteristics of this oil? Amsoil excels in that area. You're asking a lot from just film strength if the Driven oil falls short to Amsoil in this area. High zinc content can also ruin cats. That might be an issue if oil consumption is high.
I gotta change my oil soon. I'm being lazy. Love the new intro bro.
Question Auto; Im going to change brake pads on my GT350. You have recommended Hawk and Ferodo in the past. To reduce brake dust and enjoy my driving experience, which would you recommend over the other? Thanks, love the channel.
i would say Hawk 5.0 for the street but if you push the car very aggressive they do not hold the heat as well as a Carbotech race pad, they will fade but you need to be driving very hard on challenging back roads for that to happen. these cars are a bit heavy for the 5.0 is a good all around pad.
Any update on how this oil performed?
Im pretty sure you read the manual but the 2019 owners supplement says this.
Install the oil filter housing. Torque to
16-19 lb.ft (22-26 Nm) using a torque
wrench.
On page 30
Thanks for the guide.
that is for the 1 piece filter the cartridge is different if you over snug it you can crack the housing, had a friend do that last year on his car.
Dear sir is there any thing wrong with this 5w-50 driven oil as i would like to try this in my gt500 5.8L thanks
what do u think of the 2019+ shelby gt350 quality control? is the engine more solid than previous version? what is ur opinion on engine failure/lock up some ppl had?
body and paint is still horrible and embarrassing but the drivetrain is stout no issues, the very small isolated issues you are talking about are purely isolated and many of those cars were abused, modified and ECU tuned. For the thousands of these engines produced i bet less than 1% have had issues and considering the nature of this engine being a hand built race motor thats not bad at all. All manufactures have engine failures including some of the greatest from Porsche, Ferrari and AMG it just happens.
@@autofanaticcars thanks,
so for basic bolts on, no boosted applied, does the ECU tune do good or bad?
The time you started using driven oil 5w-50 what do you think so far, or would go back to ams oil.
Switched back to Amsoil
@@autofanaticcars Thanks for your email, I was going to use this driven oil in a 2014 shelby gt500 i only have 600 miles from new will stick to amsoil keep up the good information.
What would you consider is a “pro-longed” period of time for sitting where issues with wear, moisture, corrosion, etc. would start occurring? I love driving my cars and don’t want them to sit too long without being driven, especially not getting completely warmed up.
well this winter mine has been sitting for a while now ive been using it more often as the days have been milder,. the few things i liked about what i learned about Driven was the ani foaming and the rust inhibitor blend, seemed smart by design but i have no proof or long term feedback personally yet on this oil. if you get time this week give Driven a call they will really take time to talk with you about their product.
Auto Fanatic I’ll definitely check them out! I have some upcoming fluid changes to do, so it’s definitely a good time to see what potentially better options are out there. Thank you for responding!
Ive always used form a funnel for removing my oil filter. No mess. I have to imagine youve checked those out before?
this made very little mess when i did it, i packed the area with shop towels and it was super easy, the funnel ive used sometimes have gotten jammed up in there and made more of a mess.
An easy trick cut the bottom out of a empty Oil bottle. Then put the spout in your valve cover opening just pour the oil into the old oil container. Instant funnel easy pouring with no mess.
Auto Fanatic, besides street driving, you recommend this oil brand for track use as well?
the FR50 is designed for the Coyote and Voodoo engines so i see no reason this wont work on street or track respectively. Reach out to Drive Racing direct they will spend time discussing this with you further over the phone.
Wondering if you put a bit of oil in the canister before reinstalling?
yes not much
Hope that you install a quality oil catch devise soon. And as always thanks for a informative video.
My 2017 GT350 first oil change at 1000 miles then every 3K after that, Used MC oil with out any oil burn , the catch can on the passenger side collects about 2oz . No track days
My old 2008 GT500 had 35K miles when sold and I used the Castrol Edge oil had 10 track days never had any problems. I did not send the oil out for analysis however I did do a smear test looking for glitter in the oil . I live in the Phoenix, AZ so we have low humidity for most of the year, summers are brutal on the whole car.
What is the best oil for daily driving mustang gt350r
Did you use ramps to get the car onto your wood blocks? Also, how high are those wood blocks? I’m thinking of using the same method to install SLiPLO on my Gt350R.
no ramps two floor jacks and these wood stands its perfect go watch my SLiplo install video on the channel on my GT350R
Auto Fanatic thank you! 👍🏻
Auto Fanatic quickjacks option?
I’m going to pass this video on to my uncle he just bought a brand new navigator and I’m wondering if it has the same cartridge, and those navigators aren’t cheap !He’s a lot like you and I he really takes good care of all his cars
I bet made this filter design is now universal to save money so there is a good chance your uncles navigator has the same one.
Auto Fanatic I just talk to him last night it is a 2020 model and they’re still using a spin on!
i know this is late post . but have you looked into the amsoil zrod that has 1400ppm of zinc and rust and corrosion protection ? just curious on your thoughts . thanks
I got the AMZoil for my GT350R - amazingly I convinced the ford mechanics to change my oil on a service maintenance warranty appointment. I'll try the FR50 next time since I only frive 6 months in the year.
glad you got the good oil in there.
Amazing information, never thought about what type of oil war vehicles use. Especially if they are going to be stored for such a long time. If this oil your talking about is for race cars that sit for awhile which oil would you say is the absolute best for any daily driven car that doesnt have a race engine??
reach out to Driven to discuss if this would be a good option for a daily driver i see no reason why it would not.
What about warranty it will be voided by ford if you use any other type of oil then manufacture recommended if your engin will blow up having oil of your choice in it ?
Amsoil is approved by Ford. Not so sure about FR50.
Just curious, why do you use the Motorcraft filters rather than a premium synthetic like wix?
t since i change the oil so often it does not concern me really too much. I use Wix filters in all my classic muscle cars.
I have a 19 GT350R now, had a 17 GT350. I changed the oil on the 17 at 500, 1500, 3000, 5000 then every 2500 miles. Total miles before I sold the 17 was 13.400 with a total of 6 track days, using 1 quart between oil changes after the 5000-mile mark. Used Motorcraft until the 10,000-mile oil change then went with Amsoil. With the 19 I switched to Amsoil at the 500-mile oil change, I will be changing oil this week at 1500 miles and sticking with Amsoil for now. I have all the records of the Blackstone Tests from the 500-mile change on the 17 to the 500-mile change on the 19 if anyone would like to see them. Please let us know if you find out the grade of the Driven Racing Oil and your Blackstone results from said oil. I'll be tracking the 19 at least once a month and would give Driven a shot if it's a superior oil. The car isn't a daily driver and not a garage queen either, I put about 600 miles a month on the car living here in FLA. I will be tracking the car this weekend at Homestead.
Hi Scott thanks for sharing and if you have time scan those records and email to me, i would love to use them for a full blog on my web site to share with others.
@@autofanaticcars, they are on their way to your e-mail: autofanatic@yahoo.com
Could you send me the data?
enjoying your great info....new R owner....still on a truck from texas ....never seen an R in person im excited...the driver scuffed up the rim.....hes paying out of pocket 6200.00 from ford. 2017 only has 700 miles on it...should have it tuesday
yikes sorry on the rim glad they are fixing it, your in for a huge surprise once you get the R and get some seat time please keep in touch direct once you get it
@@autofanaticcars thank you i will
Next time. Use a one gallon zip lock storage bag around the the canister after loosening a bit. place bag around canister spin off canister and allow the oil and canister with filter to fall into the bag. No need for shop towels and no mess.
good idea but filming this with an expensive camera and tripod gear in your way makes doing this 1000 times harder. the shop towels worked better than the funnel ive used in the past but the bag idea seems smart and il try that next time.
Did my first oil change to AmsOil @ 700 miles but wanted to come back to this video and see if your recommendation has changed to Driven as a better overall option.
stick to Amsoil
@@autofanaticcars perfect. Just ordered 10 quarts and the filter. Glad to hear. I started having buyers remorse lol
That Mustang is sweet! I use Royal Purple and I change it often.
You forgot to do the taste test. In all seriousness I have heard rumblings the Ford will not cover an engine that uses Amsoil. Is this dealer dependent or what? What is Fords take on the Driven FR50 oil?
biggest issue I have seen with Ford not covering engines are cars that were tuned, E85, heavily modified or abused in many cases. Of course there are isolated cases when the cars are stock and sorta maintained but like i mention in this video the engine is a race engine no way around that so you need to be diligent on the upkeep.
How often do you check oil? I have 2016 R, my gauge says a percentage? Is that normally correct?
the dip stick
Can you use it in a daily driver. I have a '19 f-150 with a 5.0 engine.
I think so call Driven Racing Oil directly to ask on that application but this grade is specific for these engines including yours.
Hey Auto, just wanted to ask if you've tried Soft99 Japan King of Gloss Dark Color Car Wax? Reason why I ask is because I know you aren't a big fan of soft99 fusso coats smell and I wanted to let you know that king of gloss is 100% better in that department, and it still has the amazing properties of fusso coat, just won't last as long, it will last as long as the collinite you use. Just like fusso coat, a little goes a long way and it will give you amazing depth, richness, gloss, the amazing water behavior, and self-cleaning properties. Trust me, it's worth it.
I bought the other Fusso waxed i just have not had time to test them out and since the Fusso is picky with cold ambient temps im waiting for spring weather to do it. Been testing the Griots 3-1 Ceramic for 8 weeks so far still doing more testing before i finish the video on that product.
When adding the oil keep the spout high and it will pour in without gluging.
Lol all our fathers taught us this but some prolly don’t know this.
Are you still dissatisfied with the driving experience versus your 2017? Any changes there? Any driving review videos coming up?
the R drives awesome its so much more livable where I drive than the 17 was for sure. I do like it. More driving videos coming but the temps are jus too cold to be driving hard with the Cup 2 tires its just not safe. I am selling the blue R to buy a Heritage Edition R
$17.99 a quart for 5w-20. I’ll stick with Amsoil as it’s much cheaper and proven.
yes it was not cheap plus the shipping but i thought it was worth trying to show you guys another option
Their website says $11.49
@@autofanaticcars I don't believe the Driven (although good oil) meets Ford's spec like Amsoil does....
Mr1troyd It’s not about meeting specs. It’s about exceeding specs! Amsoil and Driven meet and over exceed the additives required
Some of the best oil... We use it in our Roush Stage 3 and our 2020 GT500
thanks for posting to share your feedback with everyone here.
In the US you guys have oils we do not have in Europe. Well, at least I have never seen them here in Portugal. I tried Lucas Oil a few years ago in my car. Was very expensive and I didnt see nothing special to be honest. I just went back to Shell and Petronas. Of course independently of the brand, I only use oil that meets the specifications for my car.
I have never seen an oil that meets so many specifications for so many brands like Selenia. Its made by Petronas.
Have you noticed more pressure or quiter valvetrain noise ?
so far yes similar to Amsoil, so far its only been a few days but cold start in the morning you can hear a difference right away.
I really think that the factory fill is not the same as the regular synthetic Motorcraft oil but a version of their engine break-in oil.
The video I've been waiting for.
Your awesome thank you for the great videos best on TH-cam!
ZDDP does not work in modern engines that's why most oil companies don't use it anymore. ZDDP only works on pushrods and flat tappet cams, does absolutly nothing on bearings or cylinder walls. So those of you that have an LS or an old porsche then yes use all the ZDDP you can.......
Doing an oil change yourself, would that ever be a warranty (heave forbid) claim issue?
all my service is documented and posted in the channel so they can never contest that.
@@autofanaticcars Yup. Fair enough. I am going to likely go with Amsoil - have to find a Canadian source that I can buy in bulk / by the cases :P And filters!
Funny thing is Advance auto parts are carrying Amsoil line up now... you will do blackstone lab on that brand?
i did weeks back on my Alfa Romeo, its a solid oil and i always stand by it, but i only use their Signature grade i have no experience with their other grades.
I have a scat pack challenger and every oil change with a tire rotation is 126 bucks. The rotation is less than 20. Tech told me I have to use high performance oil. Idk if thats true. Nobody said the oil changes would be so expensive.
sounds like your actually taking care of your investment so good job
i dont know your situation but why are you changing your cars oil and not the dealer to preserve warranty
hope your kidding on that if you think having the hacks at a dealer work on my car will preserve any warranty. the first and last time i had them do my oil where i brought them my oil and filter they seized the filter onto the oil pump go watch that video and youll see why i do not let others work on my cars ever.
@@autofanaticcars i get it really i do but i have a lifetime power train warranty that states all maintenance including oil changes must be done by dealer and the way these gt350 engines are going up i cant afford to buy a new engine myself if anything happens. without watching your other video im sure the dealer rectified the issue as well, plus the oil filter seizing was a very common issue with these cars as well
Hi Phil, when will the wheel foam be available again? Thank you
few weeks we anticipate
@@autofanaticcars thank you
Fuel in the oil has nothing to do with oil quality and everything to do how the engine is started and let idle and used for short runs in cold conditions.
whats the proper procedure
@@Yeet20001 let it warm up first
What do u think about royal purple motor oil
not a fan i had issues using that in the past on my modified GM LSA motors
Fuel in the oil would seem to be a serious concern. Fuel (gasoline) can act as a solvent and when it comes into contact and mixes with engine oil, it could dilute and change the properties of the oil which in turn could be harmful to the engine. I could be wrong on this though. Peace
yes that was always my understanding that when oil breaks down it looses its protection properties and more fuel gets in the crankcase over time. can not believe in 700 miles how bad it smelled.
@@autofanaticcars So the answer? Change the oil more frequently to offset this problem? What about adding a friction modifier?
Just a warning. If your catalytic converters are still on the exhaust, the zinc will plug them. It’s the reason they have heavily reduced zinc in modern oils. If you use a catch can it helps reduce how much oil is burned.
i have never had any cat issues ever on my cars, the factor fill oil burned 2 quarts in 700 miles it was time to say goodbye
I’m not looking to debate the merits of Motorcraft oil. I know there are better oils. My GT350 has burned less than 2 quarts over 10,300 miles using MC. My point is that if your car used 2 gts. in 700 miles, I would be concerned about the health of the engine.
you are very lucky if thats all your burned with the MC oil so if its working for you then no need to switch. these engine tolerances can also have something to do with wear and tear in the early stages. My engine is the V2 which has the new block and more oil passages i think. I had dozens of fans who watch this channel run their GT350 at the track right after a fresh oil change withMC and their engines blew up after a few hours pounding it, kinda scary when i saw all those photos from various cars all over the country.
Lucky, yes. If I were to track my car, I would not use Motorcraft oil.
Auto Fanatic motor craft oil is garbage and I agree that Amsoil is top notch.
Surprised you don’t have a QuickJack or some form of small lift.
i have not a single inch to store it thats why my garage is packed with fabrication equipment and tools and no wall or floor space.
Auto Fanatic I’m in the same boat. My garage is also my woodworking shop. I just park over the Quick Jacks.
The Motorcraft Oil is probably just a Group 3 which means that it is Molecularly-Modified Dino Oil without a real synthetic base (POA base) which was common before Castol ruined "Synthetic oil" in 1997. That Amsoil Signature is one of 3 domestic brands that is a real Synthetic Oil. The AMSOIL Signature, Redline and Royal Purple are Group 4/5 which means they have a PAO and Ester (POE) base. True racing oils (which you cannot buy) have no detergents because they only have to last one race. Instead of detergents, they have more Synthetic Base. Those of you that see Mobil 1 stickers on that NASCAR, LOL. Mobil 1 is just a Group 3 and the NASCAR oil is a custom Group 4/5. I've read all I can about Driven FR50 and there is no info on their site about what Group oil it is. There is a graph about having lower detergent level and that is typical of a racing oil. Some detergent is necessary for street driving. The higher detergent, the less lubrication. Please inquire to Driven about what Group Driven FR50 actually is. It's priced competitively with the top 3 Group 4/5 domestic oils. Keep in mind that oils made in Japan and Germany that are labeled "Synthetic" must by law be at least Group 4 real Syn oils. But Congrats on leaving the Motorcraft oil camp. No dealer or manufacturer uses bulk Group 4, 5 or Group 4/5 oil or factory fill.
hopefully someone from Driven will comment tomorrow or this week on your question, that is a good point to address. Like i said this is the very first time using it and I was suggested by many pro builders in Nascar to use it so i wanted to share with you guys something new.
Driven is probably a Street Version" of a NACAR oil. You must make some compromises in that this oil is going to stay in a crankcase far longer than a true race oil and must have some detergent. And because of this lower detergent level, you might have to change it more often. 5000 miles max. The limit is going to be either the poor state of OE filters with their bypass valves or the exhaustion of the additive package over time. But I can see what Driven is trying to accomplish, and I fully endorse it for a true High-Performance car. The mainsteam U'S' oil companies have fooled the consumer with cheap Group 3 oils that have had the real synthetic base removed, which was 75% of the bottle. Before Castrol Syntec ruined Synthetic Oil, and everyone followed the downgrade, all Synthetic Oil since AMSOIL in 1972 (to 1997) had a True Synthetic base. (Usually PAO). That $6 a quart Syn most people buy costs a lot less with just a modified Dino-oil base. The worst overpriced Group 3 are Castrol Edge and Pennzoil Platinum. Might as well pay a couple bucks more for REDLINE, AMSOIL Signature, Royal Purple. Or Driven when we find out if it is Group 4/5. For most people who overpay for Group 3, they might as well buy Walmart Super-Syn for $17.00 for 5 quarts. It's the same as Amazon Basics or MAG 1, made by Warren Distributing and is rated SN+. I use it in my 3 Priuses but they are easy on oil. If you race, tow, or have a turbo, the ability to handle higher temps (Flash Point) makes Group 4 or 5 more appropriate.
yeah i usually change 3k intervals, with my Alfa Romeo they suggested the Penzoil and it burned like crazy, switched to Amsoil and not a drop burned since and a much quieter valve train. i think with this stuff you gotta see what works best for your engine and needs. i just enjoy learning about new options and more fun to share on the channel now
Awesome..
You forgot to link the oil change from hell video
Damn your wheel cleaner sold out I was about to buy it.
my web store should have some in a week or so
Okay first of all i enjoy your videos. To correct you Nascar dropped the Winston Cup Series in 2003 because of it's association with tobacco products & Nascar wanted to expand to other markets. Due to a new congressional mandate, the tobacco companies were no longer able to advertise on TV. In 2004 Nascar cup series became the Nascar Nextel Cup Series. Now, my father-in-law is good friends with Roger Penske. It so happened he asked Roger this question regarding engine oil a few years ago & Roger told him if your sponsor is a oil company which in the case of Joey Lagono's team is Pennzoil do you think they would want them to use a different brand of oil? The answer is NO. Roger said Pennzoil formulates an oil for their race engines. In the case of Kevin Harvick who one of the main sponsor's is Mobil 1 oil same thing holds true. Racing oil used in Nascar engines has a total different molecular structure. I have never seen Driven FR50 decals on any Nascar race cars.
$20 a quart is expensive.
$ 16