AMAZING Print Adhesion EVERY TIME! | PolyMas DIY 3D Printer Bed Adhesive / Glue
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Today on christmas3dp, i show you how i made my own DIY FDM 3D Printer Bed adhesive using PVP(Polyvinylpyrrolidone) and PVOH(Polyvinyl Alcohol). Making it yourself is super easy. It replaces 3D Printer gluestick, 3D Printer hairspray and most other adhesive solutions and works far better than anything in it's pricerange for First Layer Adhesion.
The exact recipe, Tips and Tricks for usage and Purchase Advice can be found in the Polymas blog Article here:
polymas.eu/polymas-diy-bed-ad...
Consider liking the Video and subscribing to my channel :)
Have a good day, and Happy Printing!
- christmas3dp
Sources:
Nozzlecam • 3D Printer custom nozz...
Sanladerer • Basics: 5 ways of gett...
Nanopolymer video: • How To Use Nano Polyme...
Icons: Freepik, flaticon, custom-made
Slicer shown: ideaMaker
Music by 14.4mL:
• [VRC6+MMC5 8-bit] Tall...
0:00 Intro
1:05 Other Adhesives
1:58 Ingredients
2:30 Making the Adhesive
5:57 Containers
6:40 Final Touch
7:12 Usage & Washing
7:56 Sourcing
9:19 Outro - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
If you're interested in buying the adhesive for super cheap, i sell it for the lowest price i can here: christmas3dp.com
0:43 that kapton tape really felt the impact haha
Having actually made this stuff as well as owning a bottle of Nano Polymer, I can attest that this homemade stuff works at holding down PLA, PETG, TPU, and ABS/ASA very well. I have not tried Nylon or Polycarbonate with it yet. I only ordered about 200 grams total (100g PVP-K30 and 100g PVOH) and the star ingredient is the PVP-K30. That's the one you should order more of if you're actually going through the trouble of making this adhesive. I've made a huge 1000ml batch for myself and my friend and he hasn't had issues
Now, is this stuff better than Nano Polymer, Magigoo, your regular old glue stick, etc?
Yes and no let me put it this way.
If you're a business you should spring for Nano Polymer because they guarantee its use with a wide range of temps and materials, especially if you're printing HT stuff.
If you need just a basic release agent or extra adhesion in a pinch, a regular old glue stick is pretty much fine in every case and it is something most people will realistically have on hand.
Now this stuff is comparable to Magigoo and Matterhacker's Stick Stick and in my opinion it's way better. The beauty is you can adjust the recipe to have more adhesion. Is it more economical, potentially but if you are not running a print farm you'd never go through the ingredients needed to make this adhesive and not to mention one application can last many prints.
Having said all of this, this recipe is worth making if you can source the ingredients. I haven't had a failed print at all since using this stuff and it lets me conserve my Nano Polymer for the really important and nice prints.
Is it just me, or is the endoscope cam mesmerising?
Hah, I only just found this from Hackaday. I'm the Makerbogans guy that worked most with supergoop. Short version of the comment I posed there. Supergoop works exceptionally well with refillable acrylic paint pens, the wide variety with hard sponges. You can find on amazon for one offs, aliexpress for bulk. Here's a better recipe for that: 75% PVP, 25% PVOH. 7% adhesive to solvent s by weight. Solvents: 60% ethanol (slightly better than IPA but might be controlled near you), 40% water. I found it curious you just threw the powders in, usually povh wont readily dissolve like that. Typically you take the water component of the recipe, put it in a sauce pan. Sprinkle pvoh onto the (cold) water, then stir while gently heating until dissolved. Then mix up all the rest, and stick on a stir plate until you see no more gasses coming out of solution (bubbles). Another tip: If you let your plate cool right down, parts will pop off very easily, and it wont remove as much adhesive when you remove the part. So much so you can do a bunch of prints before needing to re-apply. Note, the recipe will be a bit sticker than the 70/30, so it's more useful for nylon. If you never print nylon, 70/30 will be okay.
Well said! Thanks for your work. I'll be adding those details to the blog article. Woohoo! \o/
What does the pvoh do?
@@Mikey-oz2sp it's a release agent. Without it you'd rip the pei off a build plate just getting a part off
@@MatBettinson Thanks, please if you can help what viscosity of pvoh is ideal?
/ what did you buy?
Christmas used 0.5mpa pvoh
I've bought grade 8-88 - 8mpa
I can also get grade 18
The seller states
"Due to the higher molecular weight of grade 18-88, it gives stronger mechanical properties of the obtained dried film than that of the grade 8-88"
Grade 8-88:
Average Molecular Weight: 67,000
Degree of Polymerization: 1,400
Degree of Hydrolysis: 88%
Viscosity (of 4% aqueous solution): 8 mPa.s (viscosity is proportional to concentration)
Grade 18-88:
Average Molecular Weight: 130,000
Degree of Polymerization: 2,700
Degree of Hydrolysis: 88%
Viscosity (of 4% aqueous solution): 18 mPa.s (viscosity is proportional to concentration)
Thanks very much for your work. I print ABS on plain metal sheets (work on a metal manufacturing) and there is readily available scrap that I can use. Up until now I was using ABS slurry but it was a mess and the glue sticks was expensive, so searching online I found this recipe and decided to give it a try, well it didn't work on my plain sheets but I decided to experiment a little more and I finally found the perfect mix and it works wonders. Just add this to a bottle of wood glue and some extra water, it creates a film that ABS loves and easily cleans with water. Again thank you for this wonderful recipe
I love watching that black filament haha
I use Nano Polymer exclusively on my PEI build surfaces but the cost sure does add up. Just ordered some batches of these chemicals you mentioned (USA):
PVP K-30 from Ebay - 100g @ ~$20
PVOH/PVA powder from Amazon - 100g @ ~$15
Will update once they get here. I'm planning to try a mixture using exclusively IPA instead of IPA + Water, as I have 70% IPA on hand anyways. I would rather have mostly IPA based so it evaporates off the build plate quicker when applying rather than having to wait for it to dry.
Make sure to share your results!
sick
Gutes Video👍
Can’t say enough good stuff about the visionminer stuff. Bought a big bottle and it lasts pretty well as a little goes a long way. It completely eliminated my first layer adhesion issues.
I just learned that eye drop are an adhesive. This is basically what’s in Refresh Eye Drops
It would be really nice to see some sort of proof or testing that this adhesive actually does what you claim. It would be great to see how this compares to different build surfaces/adhesives like gluestick, painters tape, hairspray etc.
Added to my list of ideas!
What camera, lens etc. are you using to get those amazing close-ups of the nozzle?
I use my Oppo Reno 7 built in microscope camera :)
This is awesome and I can't wait to try it! One question though - I gotta be missing something stupid but can someone ELI5 how 10g:2g is a 70:30 mix? What am I missing here as far as how this calculation works?
It's not an exact mix haha, 70/30 is a recommendation and general measurement, i deviate from it in this video. You can adjust ratios and see how it affects! This is just the one i use
Can you do a comparison between glue sticks and the recipe you showed
Hey, I love your videos and tried to make the gup, you only listed the PVOH link not the PVP on your site
Yeah! Sorry, the pvp listing was taken down :( i recommend you search pvp k30 on AliExpress :)
Will it work on 100°C bed for ABS prints?
I will drink it
Please do not orally consume the Polymas 3D Printer adhesive
@@christmas3dp how else r u supposed to consume it
@@JeremyF1tzgerald your 3d printer consumes it on the heated bed
@@christmas3dp Honestly cannot believe I witnessed this conversation, 🤣🤣🤣
I've never had issues with bed adhesion for my delta, which is the only one I've ever had. I just figured out that I need to set it 10 to 20 degrees higher than the max temp listed by the manufacturer. Basically liquefy the first layer with no fan. The only real problem I have is with the auto leveling. It seems that anything larger than 5 inches from the center and more than 6 or 7 inches tall, always has the nozzle hit the print and eventually knock it off. Even with z hop over everything turned on and at 3mm high z hop, with 0.15 to 0.2 mm layer height. One of my problems probably is that one of the fan ducts broke on one side and I can't find an oem replacement anywhere. Tried printing a few that people designed for my printer but they don't really fit properly. Just got a resin printer and that seems to have a 1000% higher success rate so far lol. So maybe I will try making a duct with that soon. The other issue is the firmware was never updated, because there were none when I got the printer, it was current, and now my model isn't even available on the manufacturer website anymore. After 3 years. Considering upgrading to the Neptune 3 plus or max sometime after they come out and I have the money.
Just figure out the board and configure your own build of Marlin, or rebuild and replace the electronics altogether. Open source oriented boards come with a bootloader for easy programming, some that ship in printers do not, but if you have an extra Arduino kicking about or a usbasp it's usually not too difficult to sort out. My Geeetech came with bootloader but i chose another bootloader to make debugging easier because the stock bootloader has a bootloop issue on watchdog, which i tell you is not ideal when you're doing firmware development and accidentally flash a firmware which watchdogs immediately, and is also much slower at flashing firmware than would be ideal, and i just had to trace out the SPI pins as they come to the display connector and tap off them there to flash the bootloader.
Liked the video but honestly that font you use is barely readable.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll be changing it
Weiter so Jonas!
PVP k90 works as well?
I've been using PVP + IPA in 1:18 ratio by mass. Applying it from spray bottle. When the bed is hot, parts stick extremely well, when the bed cools off, parts release by themselves most of the time. I've tested it on PLA and PETG for hundreds of prints - works very reliably. The issue I have with it is that after parts release, some PVP ends up on a part, which makes it mandatory to re-apply the coating every second or third print. So, I've started to look for a solution to better bond PVP to glass or make PVP stronger somehow, so that it doesn't end up on a part. Basically, I want a reliable coating that will last for a long time (yes, I know about PEI or PEX).
Have you heard about g10?
Tried it, didn't work for me as advertised. Don't know, maybe it was some bad G10@@lukaspetracek1890
@@i_might_be_lying oh. I have my gr 10 ordered for next week delivery. I had high expectations, you just scared me a bit.
@@lukaspetracek1890 don't get your hopes too high, but if it would be awesome if it would work for you
I use hairspray that works great for me.. And it is water soluble. RAVE Hairspray
I print largely PETG, occasionally PLA, occasionally ABS and hate it, recently HIPS and i don't hate it. I print on a glass bed on top of the good old red PCB heater. The glass doesn't really reach high temperatures very well, although the bed is insulated at the bottom with cork. Perhaps i should change to an alu bed to be able to get more heat into it.
What i have tried so far:
PVA wood glue, spread on the bed, let cure: not terrible, just takes too long.
PVA wood glue diluted with water or ethanol (tried both) loaded into a spray bottle: clogged the bottle very rapidly.
Glue stick from 1€ store, just like the one you're showing: complete garbage, absolutely useless.
Glue stick UHU: better, much better than cheap stuff, not ideal.
Glue stick with PVP, Deli 7091 from China: seems OK so far, better than UHU, but i'd wish for stronger ABS hold yet. I remember when i was searching for PVP myself, i was a little dubious on buying a bag of white powder abroad and have the customs inspect it. But i found this and i tried it and i'm reasonably happy with it. The way i learned of PVP is from a comment on a random TH-cam video.
Hair spray store-brand from DM, extra strong hold: useless.
L'oreal Studio Line FX8 hair spray: still useless. And the stink of all these hair sprays, hell no!
Might be checking out your (well Makerbogans') mix as well, we'll see.
😎 😎😎 😎 👍👍👍👍👍 ❤ ❤❤❤ ❤
Thanks! I'll see if we have those powders sold locally.
But that poor PEI!.. I have the same bed but I treat mine better ;)
Gah! Sorry haha, it's from my idex, it's seen better days
Take that stupid overpriced bed adhesive
Hell yeah!