I've been building for years. I really enjoy watching your builds. You don't half ass any of it. I like how you stress on bushings. They are critical. I use a c6 pump bushing on late 4l80e's it's a much nicer bushing than standard 4l80 bushing. I also use the nice transgo 2nd snapring. Or a tf8 fwd clutch ring. One tip I've found that helps installing rear band ...after it's in place reach through servo pin bore with a long screwdriver and give it a push. It snaps it perfectly into place. All in all great work. 👍
@@CHARLIE1955able i feel Its just some BS a buncha people did back then to scare everyone. It wont hurt if you soak them but i never have since 2006 all this time and we have one of the best track records out there
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissionsI’ve wondered about that myself. Seems like they would absorb oil quick enough on start up and you usually test each gear manually while parked before driving it. If I rebuild my 4L85E myself I’ll pour some on them during final assembly.
Glad I found this video. Trying to make a 4L80E live behind a healthy LS in a 2500HD, 6500lbs trail ready weight towing an off-road trailer with 37" tires.
Stock one won't last long. I have a decently built one and it's holding fine. My truck makes 600 plus and sits on 39s. I pull a trailer and drive it all the time. No issues yet.
I have a Jeep TJ that has a ls turbo swap with a 4L80 . The jeep has been on the dyno and hit at the rear wheels . I don't do burn out or beat it too much . Hold up great and tows nicely. However, my jeep weighs waaaay less than a Big Truck .
@@IAM_HC not sure what’s all in it. Builder said it has a few basic upgrades to keep it safe and a shift kit. Wasn’t a crazy build at all. Then I stuck a 3500 stall in it and a big tranny cooler. It’s been fine I own a small roofing company and it pulls my trailer and I drive the truck all the time. No issues yet. Transfer case seems to be my weak point and the stock rear end finally gave up.
Almost 2 hours of video and I still don’t know how to install the rear seal.😂 I like how you aligned the pump halves, sure beats the hose clamp method I will do this on the 4l80e I’m about to do for my LS K5 Blazer swap. I built one a few years back for my 2500 and saved the manuals and other literature but I wanted to see the Performabuilt way. I’m going to the site now thanks for posting.
Glad it helped! the rear seal i slowly tap in last working around the seal, once the snap ring can be set in the bore, i tap down on the snap ring until it clicks into the groove for a perfect rear case seal every time
I am taking apart an early model 4L80E to rebuild right now. After taking it apart I noticed my pump was missing that little vent passage shield that gets held down under one of the pump bolts. I am glad you mentioned that in this video as being important. I was not sure if that was needed or not.
I did the dual feed on my 4L80E like everyone recommends. Fun Fact: Guys, when your doing the Direct and Fwd clutches, make sure you put the right ones in the right drum. They will interchange, but they are different thicknesses. Ask me how I know!!!!! You will never get your pump to seat if they are in the wrong drum. If you put it together the right way the first time, your pump will seat no problem. Much easier to put together than the 4L60eeeee. Very informative.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I’ve been at this as a dealer tech and Automotive Instructor for many years. Id be a little concerned about thermal expansion damage with that little endplay. I Took out some thrust bearing doing that.😅 everything grows with heat. I assume you have better luck with it.
16 yrs this way and only have had perfect results. The 60 doesnt work and isnt made like others. It is primarily aluminum and works in combos and the expansion rates are different than 4l80s, 400s, 2004rs that are primarily cast metals and drums for the most part work seperately from eachother where endplay is insanely critical. The 60 loves tighter clearances.
I think I would prefer an 80 over a 60 just based on what you said at the beginning. It’s simpler, and not much to them. The 60 is complicated. Simpler has always proven to be more reliable. It may not have a bunch of cool features, and sure you’ll give up a couple of things, but you won’t give up reliability.
But they have no room for error. One bad service or any issue or install issue up front and the whole trans is trash. The 60 is much more forgiving with customer tunes and mistakes. Equally as reliable with their own strong points
Ouch ten minutes in and i hear you call me out. I’m always shifting into gear reverse and drive from a roll. Old habits die hard but i will try to fix this one. No need to screw up parts.
I use stock clutch, duel feed the direct, fixs the AFL, tcc and add a sonnax boost valve. Drill 2 holes in pump, 3 on VB plate. Shim the rear to specs and they handle N/A 500 hp to boosted/bottle 1200hp no problem 👊🏽
Also wondering if you are planning on getting into any 6L80/90 stuff. I have put a bunch of them together now (stock) and it seems like they would both make great street/strip transmissions.
I sm on my 5th 80e rebuild with 2 different builders. Turbo LS 4,000lb truck at 1000+ whp. The direct clutches keep frying and The direct drum was chewing into intermediate pressure plate. The thrust washer for forward hub was chewed up as well. 5 times now!! Most of the time the pump is chewed up as well.
sorry to hear, The pump being chewed up is most likely due to faulty converter spacing on your end of of the install and needs to be 1/8 to 3/16 with a NEW flexplate or you could have a thrust bearing issue causing it to fail. When the 80 E pump chews up being a gear driven pump it will surely send so much metal through the unit the forward and direct frictions will burn up and eat the drums like you describe. I dont think this is a build issue, i think its more of an install issue on your end. Just trying to be real and helpful. if you double check your converter spacing and make sure your flexplate is true then i would say its a build issue and you should probably buy one of ours lol.
Yeah believe me i wish it was an error on my part... i was told the same stuff by the first builder. The crank thrust is .005 the converter pull out is .140. The flexplate runout at ring gear is .015 I installed a new sfi flexplate on the last rebuild that lasted 4 passes. The last build didnt hurt the pump only directs, but i pulled it after the 4 passes. Ohh and on the last build I had the converter checked.
The only annoying thing isn't even related to building it is the lapse in sound vs lip movement...You can adjust that in OBS along with your company information/Logo etc. in top corners or however.. Just some helpful info..But you do a great job
News flash! I put an 80e in my car it's on my channel! I installed an Hd2 kit into my junkyard 80e it held roughly 800Rwp No problem I'm my Boosted Trans am! there are still unicorns out there!
I agree there will always be unicorns but the real fact is they are getting to be over 20 years old and all those seals sitting in that dirty wet junkyard are on borrowed time, especially if any moisture gets to the frictions with humidity as an auto is not a sealed unit.. Soon the unicorns will be extinct and the internet will have to face a harsh reality. I personally would just do it right and at least run a refreshed oem 4l80 if i didnt have the money for a built one. I havent seen a junker yet make it an extended period of time in the last few years.
What is your opinion on rollerizing a 1996 4L80E vs the stock washers? Thanks in advance if you have time to respond. I appreciate your videos. They are most helpful.
We have many 60s in well over 1000hp cars. You dont want a 80 in your vette lol itll feel aweful and wont fit. 550hp breaking 4l60s just means you have bad builders.
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions I don't like the gearing of the 700. It's a huge step up between 1st and 2nd. I would love an automatic with closer gear ratios. It seems no one around here knows how to build a decent transmission to handle power. The first two attempts had second burn after just three hard pulls. Then, something snapped after that was fixed. Then third gear burnered after 1200 miles.
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions I have a 4l80 on a table. I haven't pulled the 700 yet. I was told if I install the 80, I'd never have to do it again. Some like that low 700 first gear. With 545 lb-ft of torque in a 82 Vette I don't need a low first gear. Although I do need to lower the final drive. It currently has a 272 gear. The rpm is 1900 at 80 mph. Traction is still a big issue even with the tall gears, and I'm running 295 radials. Howard's cams told me I should have, at minimum, a 3.73 gear and a 3000 stall with the cam, I'm running. It's just hard to trust anyone about these light duty transmission builds. I just need something durable.
Never having to do it again is false. It is a strong trans but it has its own problems esp with the pump and no trans ever will last forever. Even if its made entirely out of billet... it needs serviced and kept cool to last but will never last forever.
Going to be building my 70 Chevelle with a turbocharged 5.3LS with 3.23 rear gears making ballpark of 600whp to keep it streetable but still get down on the strip. Going by your info in the start of the video...do I need to ditch my plans of a 4L80e build and do a 4L60e? Wanting a full manual valve body in my trans. What's your recommendation? I like the 1-2 spread on the 80 better than the 60 since it's closer to the TH400.
Its your preference but the 60 is not a bad trans and we currently hold the record for the 60 at 8.936 in the 1/4 and it has been capable of 1200+ whp. if you like the closer ratios, look into the 2.84 1st gear reduction we offer for the 60.
Great video!!! But im really in the air about transmission selection. And you made perfect sense of the weight of vehicle. I have 6.0 im putting in foxbody. Hoping 500+ to wheels. Do you still rec 60e due to the lighter weight vehicle or 80e due to hp/tq goal?
60 e will take torque just fine in a 4 to 5k weight vehicle if its built and tuned right. In your case an 80 will slow you down, you need 800 plus hp to make an 80 even be relevant on the track
If it doesn’t divulge any trade secrets I wanted to ask which front sprag you are using. The earlier one looks a little more healthy/sturdy than the later if memory serves correctly. Or have you used both successfully? If I remember right there are three parts involved and you can’t mix any of them. You either use all the early parts or all the late parts.
My 4L80E wants to move forward in neutral and it's like a transbrake in reverse. Does the same if I unplug the main harnes connector. I have a 600-650hp supercharged 355 sbc in my 1990 K2500 Silverado. I've seen the $3795. Is every xtreme 4x4 build custom? What are my options? I don't make stupid power, but I sometimes I drive it stupid and want it to hold longer than the stock rebuild 4L80E. I'm running a 2000rpm converter and ez-tcu controller. Do you have a core charge?
Youve rolled the forward sprag, 3795 is our level 1 80 and it holds 1000whp, that is your only option next to the level 2 4l80 which holds 2000whp. Every build we do is custom and we do not have a core charge. You can veiw all of the information at www.performabuilt.com
Hey pal. I've learned a lot from your 4l60e builds. You guys make it look easy. I got a question though... is it possible to use a early output shaft on late model case? Trying to convert a 4WD to 2WD. Thanks
What kind of frictions and steels (manufacture and part number) did you use in this build? Borg warner high energy frictions and raybestos non kolene steels?
It changes per the build and depending on what i am building for, you can veiw our parts list at www.performabuilt.com for all parts except exclusive modifications and hydraulics.
I have a 4l80e behind my bbc 588ci it lost overdrive about 3 years ago but all other gear work fine fluid is bright red. I’m running it without controller just wired up with switch to lock and unlock converter with full line pressure. Motor is a street motor pump gas in a 69 camaro. What are your thoughts is the trans toast or could it be a solenoid or something? Any help appreciated
I am here to put the fire to your feet. I love your company and what it has open my eyes to what needs to go into your transmissions. The things here is though is I have seen a channel who I am sure you are well aware of who differs with you on the 4l80e vs the 60e. Not just that but many of the "transmission builders" agree with him. The argument here is that the 60e will not last in the long run vs a 80e in a longevity of road time and track. I am going to speak on it here seeing that I feel you will answer it and they are too chicken shit to bring that cockiness here.
I personally love them both, i own both, and on top of all that my arguement is it all depends how you are using the vehicle. Ive made both last under similar conditions for a longevity period of 10+ years. It all ties into understanding what you are building for, selecting a transmission and how to set it up appropriately. The problem is pretty simple.. it was never the transmissions.. its the people. They slap in expensive hard parts or pick a trans with a decent track record of durability and call it a day not actually understanding how it works or how to truly make it last longer or hold more. "Builders" and "youtube car gurus" have been using hard parts and inherent parts as band aids to hydraulic problems and it shows, I.E throwing in a smart drum or billet shaft at 500hp...smh. The days of the Junkyard 80 are gone as we have exceeded 20 years... how long do you think seals and frictions will last sitting in the dirt much longer?? In short if anyone disagrees ill build them under the table with plain frictions and a screwdriver and make a 60 hold more than some yee yee know it all youtube 80 boi. Soooo to wrap up, my point is...THERE IS NO BETTER TRANSMISSION AND IT ALL DEPENDS ON HOW YOU ARE USING THE VEHICLE. For the guys who wanna argue.. if you got a channel, then have me on and let me show you how to stop being stubborn and educate yourself past the 60 / 80 argument, if you dont have a channel... then your opinion doesn't matter. I hope this helps your argument
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Nah, that was for them. They too chicken shit to come here and speak up so left this here for when they troll this will be here for them to see. I been in talk with you guys off and on for a while.
Thanks for posting this video. Great tips. I did dual feed mod for both drums on my last 80e build. Brand new VB and pump body With a Sonnax line to lube valve in the pump. I have a big 40k cooler run in series with the stock cooler on a 2000 rcsb Sierra w/ a 408 LS. I keep wiping out the thrust bearing in the motor. The converter clearance is correct and the TC is not ballooning. I’m seeing about 80-90psi at idle. And under 200 at wot. Is this too much pressure? Only symptom I notice is a slight pump whine in 1st when it gets hot in traffic. Trans still shifts like butter, even on the bottle. Any idea what can cause the load on the crankshaft?
PerformaBuilt Transmissions it’s been like 3 years. I can’t remember. I think I wrote down everything I did somewhere on a build sheet. Flexplate is a balanced TCI. Are you referring to drilling a hole in the case or the pump body? I heard from my local hose and fittings guy that -6an lines are not truly 3/8”(they all run slightly smaller I.d.). So essentially braided -6 would be a downgrade for my application. I’m considering moving up to -8. Should I install a gauge on the pump return and compare it to the pressure port to see if I’m seeing high converter LP?
PerformaBuilt Transmissions I followed the atsg guide along with tips out of the erformance book written by Chris(from NY, I think). I’m confident I did drill it. It’s just been awhile and my memory is fading. Jakes performance gave me the tips on the dual feed stuff..
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thanks for clarifying. It's been awhile since I rebuilt it. I went off the ATSG. So if it's mentioned in there, I most definitely did it. I also had some detailed info provided from Chris in NY that wrote a book on this transmission specifically and sells/makes performance parts for the 80e. I forgot what it's called, but I'm sure you've seen it. Keep up the the Video's, though. We all appreciate the good content you put out!
Its rly nothing new, just half gears and not a true 6sp. All they are doing is turning lockup on and off to create a different ratio with said gear. We have already done it to the 80 and 2004R years ago but its not practical and shortens the life of the lockup clutch in the converter significantly.
I have a 1984 military truck with a 6.2 diesel and 4:56 gears I want to keep the factory transfer case , but would like to lower the RPMs down. Will a $l80 work? can it work without a computer? will the Torque converter match up to the flywheel? Thanks
Hello, i have an 07 tahoe with the 4l60 in it..i aquired a 96' 4l80 and am looking at the circle d 3000/3200 tc. The 4l80 is in my garage ..looks clean came out of a 2wd van. What would you suggest and what would you charge if i wanted to boost it up a bit.. also just aquired a stage 3 cam and spring package from tsp.
Hey I’ve got a 4l80e forward drum and noticed two notches on the smooth outer side. Are those supposed to be there or is that normal? I actually ordered another one and noticed they had the same marks in the same spot.
what’s the success ratio of someone not returning the 4l80e because they didn’t install the torque converter correctly and didn’t setup the dipstick properly or properly clean their old trans cooler, etc?
Just finished my first 4L80 not my first transmission rebuilt but I am still quite green. When I shift to reverse or drive I can feel the transmission “grab” and then sort of let go. I was careful with the process but when I checked the end play in the lower portion I found over 0.040 end play. I rebuild a lot of rear ends and stacked two side bearing shims under the lower case bushing to tighten everything up. I was careful with my bushing replacement (made sure the feed holes were open on the center support/tail housing). I took the valve body apart and cleaned everything well/made sure the valves moved freely. Can you advise me on where I might want to look first? I am about to disconnect the electrical and see if I have a solid reverse/one solid forward but not sure where to go from there just yet.
Sounds like either a rear endplay bindup or component bind up or large leak in the reverse circuit. .040 is alot for the rear band and it may not be traveling enough. Its possible the plug and filter behind the manual valve are leaking as well.
I will find out tomorrow but I think I figured out what I did wrong. I had the spacer that sits against the large low reverse piston upside down. That allowed the short spring to sit inside the spacer and I hope that is what was causing the band to not apply properly. I did take the valve body off and could see the band around the drum. The contact looked okay to me. Thank you for responding!! That was nice of you!
Wow! Really getting my tail kicked here. Third time back out. Going to put the old band back in and take the shims out of the back. Still no reverse and soft drive 1. I can pull it down into low 1 and get all 4 forward gears on the lift. Just seems like I’m not getting the needed pressure.
I took it back apart and found the overdrive planet roller clutch in pieces. This was one of the things I found upon first taking it apart. Anyway I got a lesson in the differences between late/early planet, sprag, overrun clutch housing, and return spring for overrun piston (each one a bit different). I had put it together with an early planet (new from parts supplier and yes I told them what year case I had), late sprag, and early overrun housing. I was fortunate to have access to a core temporarily and get it straight. Also I don’t know if you mentioned it but the wide band for manual second requires a longer pin (about 1/4 inch longer) to apply properly. Once again thank you for offering a hand. I have learned quite a few fundamental aspects of the 4L80 and hope to build more knowledge from here on.
I recommend our 60 up to 1200whp at 4000lbs. Anything over 4000lbs at 1000whp and above i recommend an 80. Weights the biggest factor, not horsepower or torque
I get the idea about the 65 vs 85 from the perspective of parasitic loss, weight and size, but as good as the 60/65 can be some of us are well into the 1000+ fr.tq. range. I don't know of any 4L60/65/70/75E that will do that over and over. Also, many of us cannot use the short first and second gear in those boxes. So if you can make the little box live behind some serious power, and if you offer a better ratio like the 2.10, 1.48, 1.00 and 1.75 I have in my 4L85E, I'm all ears. Yes it is lighter, but it has several other drawbacks and the gear ratios are horrible for racing.
Looking to build a 4l80 behind my 65 pickup. With out going full manual shift. Is there a kit to covert to a vacuum style like the 4l60. Or is it not possible?
Quick question I have 2jzgte mated with a 4l80e in a 2001 gs300 pushing about 600hp how successful would it be for daily driving and racing it here and there? Thank you in advance
2J isnt going to make the torque needed to hurt a 4l80 even stock and unless the car dead hooks, that Lexus doesnt weigh enough to ever hurt it even if it made over 500ftlbs. As long as the 80 is properly built as the bushings are the most important part and serviced timely fluid and filter properly, any 80 even a stock one is overkill for your build.
Let me ask you a various question. You know the steel plates? Does it matter how you put them in. Each steel plate has a tooth that has a little piece of steel taken from it. Does it matter which way you stack them on each other? Let know. Thanks
You're actually very right on point about the junk yard purchases. Very true. Here in alaska people are asking $800 to $1000 for a 4L80E. Lets just say it came out of a plow truck that had 80k miles. And it sat outside for 2 years. Go figure. Never thaught about that at 180° angle.
So I plan to run high 9s in a 4800 pound ford ranger with a 6.0ls and I have a 4l80e i plan to race on street should i sell the 80 and get the 60.... I feel like the 80 is going to hold what I'm asking for?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions lol yes but as far as hard parts. Gonna be using jakes stage 5 kit and there billet od planet and some aeremet shafts and a over run kit. Jus was curious about anything else
On the 4L80E 4x4 do you guys use billet input and output shafts and is it shift kits installed in the 80 build? I have 03 Silverado SS awd I’m curious bcuz I want a trans to launch hard burning all 4
on this build which is out level 1 no we do not use billet output and input and we also on every build do not use anyones shift as we make our own. We have various lathes and other equipment we use to machine our own valvework and other parts of our performabuilt shift kit. our level 2 4l80E does use billet input and output shafts along with many other billet parts which you can veiw the full parts list on all of our builds at www.performabuilt.com
But which one is level 2 it only says how y’all inspect parts and what’s better I don’t see on any of em it says level 2 4L80E only see black edition extreme 4x4 heavy hauler or extreme performance
The level 2 is the Black Edition and there is a VERy clear description about it and the parts involved for all that we are willing to tell you. If you cannot navigate the website appropriately then please call us at 8887446542.
For an engine swap into a 2000 s10 where people normally go with a th400, should I just go with a 4l80? Vehicle would be set up for street/strip so the overdrive gear is nice to have.
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions the 4200 has a 4l60 bell housing, and would probably work great normally, even getting on to it. But when I turbo it I'll have to build the trans, and I'd rather build it myself, which the 4l80 seems like a more reasonable thing to do even if I sacrifice weight and gearing. Plus, I'd like to have a transbrake for the strip. You did get me thinking tho, a 4l60 would be better to drive around with, but I worry with the 3x high hp and tq with turboing, that it wouldn't hold up for a long time.
Hey, I have Gmc suburban 2000 , 4L80E transmission, the truck does not move in any gear , in other word , when I’m shift gear to D,R,3,2,1 the truck does not move ? Please need help.
My 99 suburban did the same. The clutches and steels friction welded themselves together in the foward drum. I had to replace the whole drum and in the process of rebuilding the transmission
Youll never fit an 80 in that car and the ratios and weight of the cast iron rotating drums will completely make your 1J or 2J slower than a geo metro. A 4l60e in that car would be the only way to go in that car even with an LS.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I have a 2006 pathfinder that has a 383 ls twin turbo. It also has been armada swapped which makes it 6in wider has 325 30 20 drag slicks & 3.36 gears awd using a 4l80e with a 261hd tcase how much would you build a 4x4 4l80e transmission for this build.. it's 4500lbs should make 1200hp would like to get a tbrake and a 3600-4000 stall converter triple disk billet. Thank you
Ok now for a real question for me. I am looking at doing an awd s10-jimmy out if the 2000 gen and I'm wondering due to the weight and power should I go 60e or 80e. I'm going for a turbod 305 with 800 hp and 790 tq. It is suppose to be both street and track. What would you suggest? Also yes I am not going with an LS. The 305 is the same size as the 4.3
the 4l60 is a very hard trans to do if your not experienced is all im saying, the 80 has more flexibility if your not experienced as its mildly strong to start with. If i did it, i could make whatever trans you want hold no issue.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Well before going that far I just wanna know which would be best for it. Also my mistake let me rephrase, Hell no I am not trying to do a transmission
How much is one of the 80e I have a 97 z71 I ls swapped and I'm looking at boosting it everyone keeps telling me my 4l65e will hold and last even with 4x4 launches but it's a daily driver and I constantly use it to haul and I race on the weekends
I dont use a master kit, every build i pick parts out individually for whatever build im doing. If i had to pick a good seal kit id use Toledo kits and i always use Borg Warner frictions with plain steels only.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions per clutch or total under the clip and top plate? Just want to make sure I'm not confusing what info I've been getting, for rule of thumb I've been told .010 per clutch so 5 or 6 would be 050 or 060.
i go by total and if you disagree please take it elsewhere because .010 per clutch is a shitload on total.... whoever told you that should not be building... thats more than GMs stock spec lol youll break the lugs if your doing .010 per friction
Can you provide a parts list (with part numbers) for major parts to build a 4L80 that can handle 1000 wheel horse power? I’m trying to build one for a single turbo ls427. Thank you.
No and not to sound rude I simply do not have the time to type that out for the hundreds of people that ask me everyday. you can do your reasearch and source your own through many outlets online and always refer to our general parts list on our website to help you.
I just noticed you don't soak your plates or do you? If you're not soaking them for at least 5 minutes and ATF you are making a big mistake you said nothing about soaking these plates
Agree to disagree as Its a common misconception among other unsuccessful builders that you have to soak. Been doing this very successfully for 16 years and never soaked a clutch. We also have a trans dyno which with no load while running on initial start up through the gears, they get soaked plenty fast and we have never had an issue with our reputation for the most reliable line of trans in the US.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so if you have a wet clutch and you install it dry no damage happens during the initial startup? PS I never rebuilt a a transmission
Filling in neutral instead of park and letting it run on most transmissions will soak your frictions. We also recommend to leave the vehicle sit overnight to let air cavitation bubbles from filling bleed out of the vent tube which will allow the frictions to soak up a ton of fluid overnight as well as have solid hydraulics. ALSO advice for the future.. If your going to say you know nothing about transmissions and then tell me i need 28 more years to be considered correct with no basis to back that arguement up yourself agaisnt my large positive online reputation in the world and the current record holder for the 4l60E at 8.9633 in the 1/4 mile... you might get dragged on the internet more than once if your going to go around talking like that.
Phone number 888-744-6542 or visit www.performabuilt.com
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I've been building for years. I really enjoy watching your builds. You don't half ass any of it. I like how you stress on bushings. They are critical. I use a c6 pump bushing on late 4l80e's it's a much nicer bushing than standard 4l80 bushing. I also use the nice transgo 2nd snapring. Or a tf8 fwd clutch ring. One tip I've found that helps installing rear band ...after it's in place reach through servo pin bore with a long screwdriver and give it a push. It snaps it perfectly into place. All in all great work. 👍
I appreciate all those tips and i am always up for suggestions. I will definitely try your band tip and the c6 pump bushing. Thank you!
I've never seen clutches that were not pre-soaked and atf. Have you?
@@CHARLIE1955able i feel Its just some BS a buncha people did back then to scare everyone. It wont hurt if you soak them but i never have since 2006 all this time and we have one of the best track records out there
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissionsI’ve wondered about that myself. Seems like they would absorb oil quick enough on start up and you usually test each gear manually while parked before driving it. If I rebuild my 4L85E myself I’ll pour some on them during final assembly.
Glad I found this video. Trying to make a 4L80E live behind a healthy LS in a 2500HD, 6500lbs trail ready weight towing an off-road trailer with 37" tires.
Stock one won't last long. I have a decently built one and it's holding fine. My truck makes 600 plus and sits on 39s. I pull a trailer and drive it all the time. No issues yet.
I have a Jeep TJ that has a ls turbo swap with a 4L80 . The jeep has been on the dyno and hit at the rear wheels . I don't do burn out or beat it too much . Hold up great and tows nicely. However, my jeep weighs waaaay less than a Big Truck .
@@timh1187 what’s upgraded on your unit?
@@immelting9834 hit what at the rear wheels? The comment didn’t show a number
@@IAM_HC not sure what’s all in it. Builder said it has a few basic upgrades to keep it safe and a shift kit. Wasn’t a crazy build at all. Then I stuck a 3500 stall in it and a big tranny cooler. It’s been fine I own a small roofing company and it pulls my trailer and I drive the truck all the time. No issues yet. Transfer case seems to be my weak point and the stock rear end finally gave up.
Almost 2 hours of video and I still don’t know how to install the rear seal.😂 I like how you aligned the pump halves, sure beats the hose clamp method I will do this on the 4l80e I’m about to do for my LS K5 Blazer swap. I built one a few years back for my 2500 and saved the manuals and other literature but I wanted to see the Performabuilt way. I’m going to the site now thanks for posting.
Glad it helped! the rear seal i slowly tap in last working around the seal, once the snap ring can be set in the bore, i tap down on the snap ring until it clicks into the groove for a perfect rear case seal every time
I am taking apart an early model 4L80E to rebuild right now. After taking it apart I noticed my pump was missing that little vent passage shield that gets held down under one of the pump bolts. I am glad you mentioned that in this video as being important. I was not sure if that was needed or not.
Its very needed
I did the dual feed on my 4L80E like everyone recommends. Fun Fact: Guys, when your doing the Direct and Fwd clutches, make sure you put the right ones in the right drum. They will interchange, but they are different thicknesses. Ask me how I know!!!!! You will never get your pump to seat if they are in the wrong drum. If you put it together the right way the first time, your pump will seat no problem. Much easier to put together than the 4L60eeeee. Very informative.
i agree lol every trans has its own unique quirks, i do prefer building 60s all day
Glad you put that out there, but It's not the clutches but the steels that are different thickness. Happy building 🤟
I respect your response and response time to every comment damn near and professionally every time
Thank You!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I’ve been at this as a dealer tech and Automotive Instructor for many years. Id be a little concerned about thermal expansion damage with that little endplay. I Took out some thrust bearing doing that.😅 everything grows with heat. I assume you have better luck with it.
16 yrs this way and only have had perfect results. The 60 doesnt work and isnt made like others. It is primarily aluminum and works in combos and the expansion rates are different than 4l80s, 400s, 2004rs that are primarily cast metals and drums for the most part work seperately from eachother where endplay is insanely critical. The 60 loves tighter clearances.
I think I would prefer an 80 over a 60 just based on what you said at the beginning. It’s simpler, and not much to them. The 60 is complicated. Simpler has always proven to be more reliable. It may not have a bunch of cool features, and sure you’ll give up a couple of things, but you won’t give up reliability.
But they have no room for error. One bad service or any issue or install issue up front and the whole trans is trash. The 60 is much more forgiving with customer tunes and mistakes. Equally as reliable with their own strong points
Ouch ten minutes in and i hear you call me out. I’m always shifting into gear reverse and drive from a roll. Old habits die hard but i will try to fix this one. No need to screw up parts.
I use stock clutch, duel feed the direct, fixs the AFL, tcc and add a sonnax boost valve. Drill 2 holes in pump, 3 on VB plate. Shim the rear to specs and they handle N/A 500 hp to boosted/bottle 1200hp no problem 👊🏽
Also wondering if you are planning on getting into any 6L80/90 stuff. I have put a bunch of them together now (stock) and it seems like they would both make great street/strip transmissions.
We have 2 cores we have been playing with and are currently in works to build another dyno to accept our new venture in the 6L series.
another demonstration like a skilled surgeon. nice video. are you the owner of performabuilt?
I sm on my 5th 80e rebuild with 2 different builders. Turbo LS 4,000lb truck at 1000+ whp. The direct clutches keep frying and The direct drum was chewing into intermediate pressure plate. The thrust washer for forward hub was chewed up as well. 5 times now!! Most of the time the pump is chewed up as well.
sorry to hear, The pump being chewed up is most likely due to faulty converter spacing on your end of of the install and needs to be 1/8 to 3/16 with a NEW flexplate or you could have a thrust bearing issue causing it to fail. When the 80 E pump chews up being a gear driven pump it will surely send so much metal through the unit the forward and direct frictions will burn up and eat the drums like you describe. I dont think this is a build issue, i think its more of an install issue on your end. Just trying to be real and helpful. if you double check your converter spacing and make sure your flexplate is true then i would say its a build issue and you should probably buy one of ours lol.
Yeah believe me i wish it was an error on my part... i was told the same stuff by the first builder. The crank thrust is .005 the converter pull out is .140. The flexplate runout at ring gear is .015 I installed a new sfi flexplate on the last rebuild that lasted 4 passes. The last build didnt hurt the pump only directs, but i pulled it after the 4 passes. Ohh and on the last build I had the converter checked.
i understand and there are alot of "builders" out there that shouldnt be near a wrench
The only annoying thing isn't even related to building it is the lapse in sound vs lip movement...You can adjust that in OBS along with your company information/Logo etc. in top corners or however.. Just some helpful info..But you do a great job
recently we now have better software and cameras as well for future videos. thank you for watching!
News flash! I put an 80e in my car it's on my channel!
I installed an Hd2 kit into my junkyard 80e it held roughly 800Rwp No problem I'm my Boosted Trans am! there are still unicorns out there!
Side note I love the details
I agree there will always be unicorns but the real fact is they are getting to be over 20 years old and all those seals sitting in that dirty wet junkyard are on borrowed time, especially if any moisture gets to the frictions with humidity as an auto is not a sealed unit.. Soon the unicorns will be extinct and the internet will have to face a harsh reality. I personally would just do it right and at least run a refreshed oem 4l80 if i didnt have the money for a built one. I havent seen a junker yet make it an extended period of time in the last few years.
What is your opinion on rollerizing a 1996 4L80E vs the stock washers? Thanks in advance if you have time to respond. I appreciate your videos. They are most helpful.
Doesnt hurt and i do think it helps a little
@ thank you.
After blowing up so many 700R4 and 4L60 transmissions with over 550hp in my Vette, I figured the 4L80 might be the right upgrade.
We have many 60s in well over 1000hp cars. You dont want a 80 in your vette lol itll feel aweful and wont fit. 550hp breaking 4l60s just means you have bad builders.
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions I don't like the gearing of the 700. It's a huge step up between 1st and 2nd. I would love an automatic with closer gear ratios. It seems no one around here knows how to build a decent transmission to handle power. The first two attempts had second burn after just three hard pulls. Then, something snapped after that was fixed. Then third gear burnered after 1200 miles.
2.84 reduction in a 4l60. We have 8 second 60s in vettes and camaros and they dont have an issue
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions I have a 4l80 on a table. I haven't pulled the 700 yet. I was told if I install the 80, I'd never have to do it again. Some like that low 700 first gear. With 545 lb-ft of torque in a 82 Vette I don't need a low first gear. Although I do need to lower the final drive. It currently has a 272 gear. The rpm is 1900 at 80 mph. Traction is still a big issue even with the tall gears, and I'm running 295 radials. Howard's cams told me I should have, at minimum, a 3.73 gear and a 3000 stall with the cam, I'm running. It's just hard to trust anyone about these light duty transmission builds. I just need something durable.
Never having to do it again is false. It is a strong trans but it has its own problems esp with the pump and no trans ever will last forever. Even if its made entirely out of billet... it needs serviced and kept cool to last but will never last forever.
Going to be building my 70 Chevelle with a turbocharged 5.3LS with 3.23 rear gears making ballpark of 600whp to keep it streetable but still get down on the strip. Going by your info in the start of the video...do I need to ditch my plans of a 4L80e build and do a 4L60e? Wanting a full manual valve body in my trans. What's your recommendation? I like the 1-2 spread on the 80 better than the 60 since it's closer to the TH400.
Its your preference but the 60 is not a bad trans and we currently hold the record for the 60 at 8.936 in the 1/4 and it has been capable of 1200+ whp. if you like the closer ratios, look into the 2.84 1st gear reduction we offer for the 60.
very informative, thank you very much !
Damn everytime i learn something.
Hi is this the same gearbox that's in a 2002 bentley arnage T it was a really interesting watch 😊
Its for a chevy not a bentley. Thank you
Great video!!! But im really in the air about transmission selection. And you made perfect sense of the weight of vehicle. I have 6.0 im putting in foxbody. Hoping 500+ to wheels. Do you still rec 60e due to the lighter weight vehicle or 80e due to hp/tq goal?
60 e will take torque just fine in a 4 to 5k weight vehicle if its built and tuned right. In your case an 80 will slow you down, you need 800 plus hp to make an 80 even be relevant on the track
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions it'll be my daily driver. Street and highway I'm beating the piss out of it lol
Our 60 would be fine. We do 80s too. Give us a call
Thank you for the great video. Do you have a video on setting the endplay?
I will do one in the very near future.
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions I would like to see a vid on setting end play, too!
If it doesn’t divulge any trade secrets I wanted to ask which front sprag you are using. The earlier one looks a little more healthy/sturdy than the later if memory serves correctly. Or have you used both successfully? If I remember right there are three parts involved and you can’t mix any of them. You either use all the early parts or all the late parts.
We actually always use a borg warner dual cage sprag thats very available and very interchangeable.
My 4L80E wants to move forward in neutral and it's like a transbrake in reverse. Does the same if I unplug the main harnes connector. I have a 600-650hp supercharged 355 sbc in my 1990 K2500 Silverado. I've seen the $3795. Is every xtreme 4x4 build custom? What are my options? I don't make stupid power, but I sometimes I drive it stupid and want it to hold longer than the stock rebuild 4L80E. I'm running a 2000rpm converter and ez-tcu controller. Do you have a core charge?
Youve rolled the forward sprag, 3795 is our level 1 80 and it holds 1000whp, that is your only option next to the level 2 4l80 which holds 2000whp. Every build we do is custom and we do not have a core charge. You can veiw all of the information at www.performabuilt.com
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Sounds good, man. I'll be in touch.
Or welded the fwd clutch
Hey pal. I've learned a lot from your 4l60e builds. You guys make it look easy. I got a question though... is it possible to use a early output shaft on late model case? Trying to convert a 4WD to 2WD. Thanks
Yes you can interchange them no problem
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions man I wasn’t clear I’m talking about a 4l80e is it ok to use early output in late case?
@@dreece2000 It still doesnt matter. Its perfectly fine, they interchange no issue
if your not going to show the work I'm out , you could've just sent us a tape of your voice putting it together
Why would i be in buisness if i gave away every secret? Too many enthusiasts like yourself expect so much for free lol.
What kind of frictions and steels (manufacture and part number) did you use in this build? Borg warner high energy frictions and raybestos non kolene steels?
It changes per the build and depending on what i am building for, you can veiw our parts list at www.performabuilt.com for all parts except exclusive modifications and hydraulics.
You are the best.
Thank you !
I have a 4l80e behind my bbc 588ci it lost overdrive about 3 years ago but all other gear work fine fluid is bright red.
I’m running it without controller just wired up with switch to lock and unlock converter with full line pressure. Motor is a street motor pump gas in a 69 camaro.
What are your thoughts is the trans toast or could it be a solenoid or something? Any help appreciated
might have snapped the aluminum bolt holding in the OD housing
Is there any special modifications for an off road application? Do prerunner trucks need any special parts ?
our parts list for our offroad units is available at www.performabuilt.com to veiw
Ok so what is the reason the gears go out, what part four parts
I am here to put the fire to your feet. I love your company and what it has open my eyes to what needs to go into your transmissions. The things here is though is I have seen a channel who I am sure you are well aware of who differs with you on the 4l80e vs the 60e. Not just that but many of the "transmission builders" agree with him. The argument here is that the 60e will not last in the long run vs a 80e in a longevity of road time and track. I am going to speak on it here seeing that I feel you will answer it and they are too chicken shit to bring that cockiness here.
I personally love them both, i own both, and on top of all that my arguement is it all depends how you are using the vehicle. Ive made both last under similar conditions for a longevity period of 10+ years. It all ties into understanding what you are building for, selecting a transmission and how to set it up appropriately. The problem is pretty simple.. it was never the transmissions.. its the people. They slap in expensive hard parts or pick a trans with a decent track record of durability and call it a day not actually understanding how it works or how to truly make it last longer or hold more. "Builders" and "youtube car gurus" have been using hard parts and inherent parts as band aids to hydraulic problems and it shows, I.E throwing in a smart drum or billet shaft at 500hp...smh. The days of the Junkyard 80 are gone as we have exceeded 20 years... how long do you think seals and frictions will last sitting in the dirt much longer?? In short if anyone disagrees ill build them under the table with plain frictions and a screwdriver and make a 60 hold more than some yee yee know it all youtube 80 boi. Soooo to wrap up, my point is...THERE IS NO BETTER TRANSMISSION AND IT ALL DEPENDS ON HOW YOU ARE USING THE VEHICLE. For the guys who wanna argue.. if you got a channel, then have me on and let me show you how to stop being stubborn and educate yourself past the 60 / 80 argument, if you dont have a channel... then your opinion doesn't matter.
I hope this helps your argument
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Yeah, this was perfect for the chicken shit I mean "Transmission channels".
go ahead and copy paste everywhere if youd like lol. im glad you have an open mind to what i am trying to say
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Nah, that was for them. They too chicken shit to come here and speak up so left this here for when they troll this will be here for them to see. I been in talk with you guys off and on for a while.
What causes the whining or whistle sound
Thanks for posting this video. Great tips. I did dual feed mod for both drums on my last 80e build. Brand new VB and pump body With a Sonnax line to lube valve in the pump. I have a big 40k cooler run in series with the stock cooler on a 2000 rcsb Sierra w/ a 408 LS. I keep wiping out the thrust bearing in the motor. The converter clearance is correct and the TC is not ballooning. I’m seeing about 80-90psi at idle. And under 200 at wot. Is this too much pressure? Only symptom I notice is a slight pump whine in 1st when it gets hot in traffic. Trans still shifts like butter, even on the bottle. Any idea what can cause the load on the crankshaft?
did you drill out the converter drain back hole to 1/4" located under the pump seal? Also but rarely a worn out flex plat can cause this as well.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions it’s been like 3 years. I can’t remember. I think I wrote down everything I did somewhere on a build sheet. Flexplate is a balanced TCI. Are you referring to drilling a hole in the case or the pump body? I heard from my local hose and fittings guy that -6an lines are not truly 3/8”(they all run slightly smaller I.d.). So essentially braided -6 would be a downgrade for my application. I’m considering moving up to -8. Should I install a gauge on the pump return and compare it to the pressure port to see if I’m seeing high converter LP?
pump face behind the front pump seal. If you dont know what im talking about you need to buy a manual
PerformaBuilt Transmissions I followed the atsg guide along with tips out of the erformance book written by Chris(from NY, I think). I’m confident I did drill it. It’s just been awhile and my memory is fading. Jakes performance gave me the tips on the dual feed stuff..
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thanks for clarifying. It's been awhile since I rebuilt it. I went off the ATSG. So if it's mentioned in there, I most definitely did it. I also had some detailed info provided from Chris in NY that wrote a book on this transmission specifically and sells/makes performance parts for the 80e. I forgot what it's called, but I'm sure you've seen it.
Keep up the the Video's, though. We all appreciate the good content you put out!
Have you seen that 6 speed 80 that TCI is doing ?? What is your feeling about it ?
Its rly nothing new, just half gears and not a true 6sp. All they are doing is turning lockup on and off to create a different ratio with said gear. We have already done it to the 80 and 2004R years ago but its not practical and shortens the life of the lockup clutch in the converter significantly.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thanks for responding so quickly
I have a 1984 military truck with a 6.2 diesel and 4:56 gears
I want to keep the factory transfer case , but would like to lower the RPMs down. Will a $l80 work? can it work without a computer? will the Torque converter match up to the flywheel? Thanks
Please call our toll free number on our website Www.performabuilt.com to spec your order out.
I thought the clutches are to be pretty soaked before putting them in with the steals
over night if installing directly into a vehicle. Dyno not necessary
Hello, i have an 07 tahoe with the 4l60 in it..i aquired a 96' 4l80 and am looking at the circle d 3000/3200 tc. The 4l80 is in my garage ..looks clean came out of a 2wd van. What would you suggest and what would you charge if i wanted to boost it up a bit.. also just aquired a stage 3 cam and spring package from tsp.
3795.00 shipped
Hello, can you tell me if I can use dual feed if I have a trans go hd2 kit in my transmission ?
Yes you can use dual feed
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you friend. You do great transmissions!
Hey I’ve got a 4l80e forward drum and noticed two notches on the smooth outer side. Are those supposed to be there or is that normal? I actually ordered another one and noticed they had the same marks in the same spot.
normal
what’s the success ratio of someone not returning the 4l80e because they didn’t install the torque converter correctly and didn’t setup the dipstick properly or properly clean their old trans cooler, etc?
0 success if none of these are done correctly. The 4L80 pump is one of the most sensitive pumps out there because its gear driven.
Just finished my first 4L80 not my first transmission rebuilt but I am still quite green. When I shift to reverse or drive I can feel the transmission “grab” and then sort of let go. I was careful with the process but when I checked the end play in the lower portion I found over 0.040 end play. I rebuild a lot of rear ends and stacked two side bearing shims under the lower case bushing to tighten everything up. I was careful with my bushing replacement (made sure the feed holes were open on the center support/tail housing). I took the valve body apart and cleaned everything well/made sure the valves moved freely. Can you advise me on where I might want to look first? I am about to disconnect the electrical and see if I have a solid reverse/one solid forward but not sure where to go from there just yet.
Sounds like either a rear endplay bindup or component bind up or large leak in the reverse circuit. .040 is alot for the rear band and it may not be traveling enough. Its possible the plug and filter behind the manual valve are leaking as well.
I will find out tomorrow but I think I figured out what I did wrong. I had the spacer that sits against the large low reverse piston upside down. That allowed the short spring to sit inside the spacer and I hope that is what was causing the band to not apply properly. I did take the valve body off and could see the band around the drum. The contact looked okay to me. Thank you for responding!! That was nice of you!
Wow! Really getting my tail kicked here. Third time back out. Going to put the old band back in and take the shims out of the back. Still no reverse and soft drive 1. I can pull it down into low 1 and get all 4 forward gears on the lift. Just seems like I’m not getting the needed pressure.
@@Roscotech Hook a PSI guage up to it and tell me the pressure in low 1 and rev
I took it back apart and found the overdrive planet roller clutch in pieces. This was one of the things I found upon first taking it apart. Anyway I got a lesson in the differences between late/early planet, sprag, overrun clutch housing, and return spring for overrun piston (each one a bit different). I had put it together with an early planet (new from parts supplier and yes I told them what year case I had), late sprag, and early overrun housing. I was fortunate to have access to a core temporarily and get it straight. Also I don’t know if you mentioned it but the wide band for manual second requires a longer pin (about 1/4 inch longer) to apply properly. Once again thank you for offering a hand. I have learned quite a few fundamental aspects of the 4L80 and hope to build more knowledge from here on.
Does all 4l80e transmission have the same bellhouse bolt pattern, including opt mn8 diesels 4l80e?
As far as i know everything bell wise is the same and if your 4l80 has a top hole but the engine doesnt, you dont have to use it.
Hey bro i would like to show you how i install all the way up to the center support at once on one of these
You can if youd like but im probably just going to do it my way anyway
PerformaBuilt Transmissions dont get me wrong bro im not trying to insult u or anything
none taken and none meant. i just do it my way is all and dont like change
@@javilsx363 most people install it all at once. Up to center support
@@lance1097 yea thats how i install them
No lining up lube holes on sungear and shaft?
Its really not that critical... plenty of lube travels regardless of placement.
So do you recommend the 4L60 up to 600HP anything above that go to the 4L80E ?
I recommend our 60 up to 1200whp at 4000lbs. Anything over 4000lbs at 1000whp and above i recommend an 80. Weights the biggest factor, not horsepower or torque
I get the idea about the 65 vs 85 from the perspective of parasitic loss, weight and size, but as good as the 60/65 can be some of us are well into the 1000+ fr.tq. range. I don't know of any 4L60/65/70/75E that will do that over and over. Also, many of us cannot use the short first and second gear in those boxes. So if you can make the little box live behind some serious power, and if you offer a better ratio like the 2.10, 1.48, 1.00 and 1.75 I have in my 4L85E, I'm all ears. Yes it is lighter, but it has several other drawbacks and the gear ratios are horrible for racing.
We have the 60 and 65 up in the 1500 whp range? 1200 for the 4l60 is pretty common from us and some others.
Looking to build a 4l80 behind my 65 pickup. With out going full manual shift. Is there a kit to covert to a vacuum style like the 4l60. Or is it not possible?
I will not do a vacuum setup on a 4l60 or 4l80. They can fail easily and are not as reliable as the electronics
Would a 4l60e, or 4l80e be better for a 3200# 400hp/400tq wont be spinning over 6500rpm ever. 3000 stall converter, street car, daily driver?
Built 60 would handle your application just fine or a stock 4l80E reman would probably be fine too.
Quick question I have 2jzgte mated with a 4l80e in a 2001 gs300 pushing about 600hp how successful would it be for daily driving and racing it here and there?
Thank you in advance
2J isnt going to make the torque needed to hurt a 4l80 even stock and unless the car dead hooks, that Lexus doesnt weigh enough to ever hurt it even if it made over 500ftlbs. As long as the 80 is properly built as the bushings are the most important part and serviced timely fluid and filter properly, any 80 even a stock one is overkill for your build.
Why don't you put it all together with a center support and a C-clamp and drop it all in it once?
just...no
Let me ask you a various question.
You know the steel plates? Does it matter how you put them in.
Each steel plate has a tooth that has a little piece of steel taken from it. Does it matter which way you stack them on each other?
Let know. Thanks
Doesnt matter
You're actually very right on point about the junk yard purchases. Very true. Here in alaska people are asking $800 to $1000 for a 4L80E. Lets just say it came out of a plow truck that had 80k miles. And it sat outside for 2 years. Go figure. Never thaught about that at 180° angle.
How much does this rebuild cost?
5200.00 8 weeks out on build time
So I plan to run high 9s in a 4800 pound ford ranger with a 6.0ls and I have a 4l80e i plan to race on street should i sell the 80 and get the 60.... I feel like the 80 is going to hold what I'm asking for?
Thats up to you. I cant speak for your current 80 but with our builds either an 80 or 60 would work just fine for your application
what about a 80e made for 2000+tq for a 5500 pound duramax truck? whats needed
8500.00
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions lol yes but as far as hard parts. Gonna be using jakes stage 5 kit and there billet od planet and some aeremet shafts and a over run kit. Jus was curious about anything else
you can veiw that list at www.performabuilt.com
On the 4L80E 4x4 do you guys use billet input and output shafts and is it shift kits installed in the 80 build? I have 03 Silverado SS awd I’m curious bcuz I want a trans to launch hard burning all 4
on this build which is out level 1 no we do not use billet output and input and we also on every build do not use anyones shift as we make our own. We have various lathes and other equipment we use to machine our own valvework and other parts of our performabuilt shift kit. our level 2 4l80E does use billet input and output shafts along with many other billet parts which you can veiw the full parts list on all of our builds at www.performabuilt.com
But which one is level 2 it only says how y’all inspect parts and what’s better I don’t see on any of em it says level 2 4L80E only see black edition extreme 4x4 heavy hauler or extreme performance
The level 2 is the Black Edition and there is a VERy clear description about it and the parts involved for all that we are willing to tell you. If you cannot navigate the website appropriately then please call us at 8887446542.
For an engine swap into a 2000 s10 where people normally go with a th400, should I just go with a 4l80? Vehicle would be set up for street/strip so the overdrive gear is nice to have.
Why not a 4l60e in that little truck? You dont have the weight to break things lol
@PerformaBuilt Transmissions the 4200 has a 4l60 bell housing, and would probably work great normally, even getting on to it. But when I turbo it I'll have to build the trans, and I'd rather build it myself, which the 4l80 seems like a more reasonable thing to do even if I sacrifice weight and gearing. Plus, I'd like to have a transbrake for the strip. You did get me thinking tho, a 4l60 would be better to drive around with, but I worry with the 3x high hp and tq with turboing, that it wouldn't hold up for a long time.
I have a 60 behind 1500 wheel with a brake at 3800lbs 🤷♂️... build it right
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions But if I was building myself I definitely wouldn't be able to do that realistically.
When are u doing a th400
Whenever i get time. i am extremely busy with filling orders this year more so than usual
PerformaBuilt Transmissions
Could it be from the awesome videos your making pumping up the sales volume? Lol
Any party numbers for the rebuild kit?
We dont use a rebuild kits. We source parts individually based on the build and the vehicle information.
Hey,
I have Gmc suburban 2000 , 4L80E transmission, the truck does not move in any gear , in other word , when I’m shift gear to D,R,3,2,1 the truck does not move ? Please need help.
You have broken your pump or input drum most likely. not a whole lot you can do except rebuild.
My 99 suburban did the same. The clutches and steels friction welded themselves together in the foward drum. I had to replace the whole drum and in the process of rebuilding the transmission
Doing an ls swap in 08 lexus is350 so should i use a 60 or 80 i plan on building around 500 hp and i do plan on beating it quitea bit.
Youll never fit an 80 in that car and the ratios and weight of the cast iron rotating drums will completely make your 1J or 2J slower than a geo metro. A 4l60e in that car would be the only way to go in that car even with an LS.
So what do you recommend for a tbss?
Depends on your power and how your using it.
What is the clearance for the intermediate clutches?
.020
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I have a 2006 pathfinder that has a 383 ls twin turbo. It also has been armada swapped which makes it 6in wider has 325 30 20 drag slicks & 3.36 gears awd using a 4l80e with a 261hd tcase how much would you build a 4x4 4l80e transmission for this build.. it's 4500lbs should make 1200hp would like to get a tbrake and a 3600-4000 stall converter triple disk billet. Thank you
Ok now for a real question for me. I am looking at doing an awd s10-jimmy out if the 2000 gen and I'm wondering due to the weight and power should I go 60e or 80e. I'm going for a turbod 305 with 800 hp and 790 tq. It is suppose to be both street and track. What would you suggest? Also yes I am not going with an LS. The 305 is the same size as the 4.3
Are you trying to build your own or looking at us to do it?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions is there a difference? Rather I do it or you all do it?
the 4l60 is a very hard trans to do if your not experienced is all im saying, the 80 has more flexibility if your not experienced as its mildly strong to start with. If i did it, i could make whatever trans you want hold no issue.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Well before going that far I just wanna know which would be best for it. Also my mistake let me rephrase, Hell no I am not trying to do a transmission
4L60E Level 3
Where are you located? and do you ship?
Bloomsburg pa and yes. Our website is Www.performabuilt.com
How much is one of the 80e I have a 97 z71 I ls swapped and I'm looking at boosting it everyone keeps telling me my 4l65e will hold and last even with 4x4 launches but it's a daily driver and I constantly use it to haul and I race on the weekends
3795.00
Build the 65. Itll hold
@@brysonshires9742 really if so message me in need some help I'm disabled by 4l65e is slipping in 3rd and slipping really bad in 4th 470-348-9695
Which master kit do u use
I dont use a master kit, every build i pick parts out individually for whatever build im doing. If i had to pick a good seal kit id use Toledo kits and i always use Borg Warner frictions with plain steels only.
What tolerance so you hold for the intermediate clutches
.020 to .030 depending on the application
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions per clutch or total under the clip and top plate? Just want to make sure I'm not confusing what info I've been getting, for rule of thumb I've been told .010 per clutch so 5 or 6 would be 050 or 060.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions and application is high hp with a trans brake
i go by total and if you disagree please take it elsewhere because .010 per clutch is a shitload on total.... whoever told you that should not be building... thats more than GMs stock spec lol youll break the lugs if your doing .010 per friction
The case stand is from who??
not sure what you mean?
PerformaBuilt Transmissions what trans vise is being used. Actually just asked the same
The one mounted to the bench came from WHO???
we made our own but if you do a simple google search for a trans hook there are 100s available for purchase including amazon.
How much for one of these?
$3795.00 Shipped
PerformaBuilt Transmissions for the whole transmission as is no send in or for the build where you send it in?
Hello, good work, do you have a constant chirping sound while driving on the road in my car 4L8E in the gearbox Thank you for your help.
Im not sure what your talking about. If the sound is constant its most likely not the transmission.
If its in the trans, it might be flexplate/converter loose or cracked
How much for 80e build 800hp
$3995.00 Www.performabuilt.com
👌🏽😎👌🏽
Can you provide a parts list (with part numbers) for major parts to build a 4L80 that can handle 1000 wheel horse power? I’m trying to build one for a single turbo ls427.
Thank you.
No and not to sound rude I simply do not have the time to type that out for the hundreds of people that ask me everyday. you can do your reasearch and source your own through many outlets online and always refer to our general parts list on our website to help you.
What vise is that
what vice? time stamp would be helpful.
PerformaBuilt Transmissions the one holding up the transmission the entire time
Thats just called a Trans Hook. Any google search will pull up multiple sources to purchase one or many just make their own.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I don’t think you’ve ever googled trans hook.. I regret it.. 😂 I built my own but I just googled it from your comment
I mean.. i have because thats how i found mine that i use currently?
sir how are u sir i want work with u but live in gulf oman plz sir i work with u
How much would a build like this generally cost?
4500.00 www.performabuilt.com/product/performance-4l80e/
I just noticed you don't soak your plates or do you? If you're not soaking them for at least 5 minutes and ATF you are making a big mistake you said nothing about soaking these plates
Agree to disagree as Its a common misconception among other unsuccessful builders that you have to soak. Been doing this very successfully for 16 years and never soaked a clutch. We also have a trans dyno which with no load while running on initial start up through the gears, they get soaked plenty fast and we have never had an issue with our reputation for the most reliable line of trans in the US.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so if you have a wet clutch and you install it dry no damage happens during the initial startup? PS I never rebuilt a a transmission
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions 16 years that's a long time but you haven't been doing it for 40 years
Filling in neutral instead of park and letting it run on most transmissions will soak your frictions. We also recommend to leave the vehicle sit overnight to let air cavitation bubbles from filling bleed out of the vent tube which will allow the frictions to soak up a ton of fluid overnight as well as have solid hydraulics. ALSO advice for the future.. If your going to say you know nothing about transmissions and then tell me i need 28 more years to be considered correct with no basis to back that arguement up yourself agaisnt my large positive online reputation in the world and the current record holder for the 4l60E at 8.9633 in the 1/4 mile... you might get dragged on the internet more than once if your going to go around talking like that.
Unwatchable vid. Said that I need a 4l60 instead of a 4l80. Lol jk 😆But seriously you wild gimme that 4l80 woooooo!!!!
Personally got a 4l60 behind 1500 wheel at 4200lbs lol
Talk to much..
Must not have the best attention span..