Hey guys, ask any questions about scanning with the V600 and I will answer and help ya through it. also reach out on IG @1willcobb for direct convo help if you need. I am here to get you guys going! also welcome if you came from the developing video :D
I just bought a Epson V600 and I'm running it on Windows. I've been looking for the Epson Scanner 2 app and I can't find it. Do you know if they offer it for both Windows and Mac?
@@Jorge-125 It should be on both windows and mac. Also, i think it is on the epson downloads page and/or in the drivers section of the printer on their website. I personally never really liked using it, that is why I trashed on it at the beginning of that section haha.
I may be a little late to reply but might as well give it a shot. I recently bout an rosin V600, downloaded all the software to my MacBook Pro tried scanning some negatives but the software doesn’t seem to want to scan, I tired on the rosin 2 software and works fine, any ideas?
I laboriously scan individual 120 negs. Three microns of the neg's edges rest on the V600 holder. It takes a steady hand to get the loaded holder onto the scanner bed without moving the negs. And forget the blower. It will dislodge the negs.
yeah, a lab scan will always be higher fidelity than home scanning, You just cant get arround some of the human error. I tape my 120 to the bed. haha i think it looks great
Probaly because thats around when digital photography gained a good amount of photographers who only used film until then. But I tell myself its for aesthetic purposes. 😅
This is precisely the introduction to film that I was looking for. I really appreciate the explanations to everything, makes me feel much more confident about starting to develop and scan at home.
Have done a few scans recently after punching a scanner and NLP.... My god what a difference there is in quality. Previously haven't been very happy at all with lab scans from Frontier but now feel confident that I can develop and scan at home and have a much better image than what I can get from the labs here. Cheers for your help mate!
I used a V600 also for ages. Anyways I digitalize as 'backup' and to can choose quickly which frame I want to print in darkroom. Now I use Olympus E-M5 III with its 60mm macro lens using a repro stand, a slimlite at 5000 K, and insert the entire film (135 or 120) inside the Durst Sirioneg of my enlarger with the clear glass down. Once all this is ok (10 minutes), just few minutes to scan the whole film. And the quality is really stunning
Getting technical, tweaking the Y,M,C channels will be similar to using the darkroom. I worked with someone who could look at a print, decide that it needed more green, and knew which CMY she needed to add to get the effect. Also- each film has its own colour profile. depending on the settings in camera, it can effect that outcome.
Thank you kindly for the tutorial. Using Silverfast without tutorials for batch processing was painful, you've clarified the process immensely. If you'd like a foolproof way to apply noise reduction in Lightroom, zoom into an image up to 8:1 ( I'm using Lightroom 6 ) Use part of an image that is uniform in colour and smooth in texture. Then slide both the Luminance and Detail sliders all the way to the right (100%) and then slide back (left) on the Detail slider until the majority of the artifacts are gone. Then slide the Luminance slider left until you're happy with the noise/sharpness blend.
Thanks for the very informative video. I didn't know there was a lot of color correction going on when you scan film negatives. I really liked how you used Silver fast and negative lab pro for the negative scans and compared them.
easily the best guide to scanning i've seen so far on youtube thank you so much for your work! the quality of your videos is outstanding! i was having thoughts on scanning my negatives by myself and now i'm totally gonna get into it would love to see a guide on your lightroom routine as well wishing you all the best from russia! :)
Great video. My filverfast version is 8.8 and I don't see the 'Auto' option in the Negfix tool. Is it rmoved from this version or do I need to enable ?
Thank you for the detailed video and sharing your knowledge!! I started developing do to your developing video. I started with the scanner and with this info it wil go a lot beter. Thank you again!! Something I started to do is making “contact sheets”. Just scanning the full strips in de holder at a lower setting. Than checking what I want to scan. And than putting the time in de scan’s that I want. I do that to save som time.
You are so welcome!. Yeah thats a cool thing to do with the contact sheets. I think it is cool to scan the whole line of the film strip. its cool to see them all together.
It also works if you use the DigitaLIZA (35 mm) Scanning Mask from Lomography. Just tried it with my Epson and it works great. I worked with the scanning mask before in combination with a digital camera, but it is just as easy with the Epson.
Hi, thank you so much for this tutorial. So very useful and informative. Please, I have an issue where when I scan the image, the resulting image is covered with labels "LaserSoft Imaging". Please how do I turn this off in SilverFast 8? Thank you very much.
Really good comprehensive video. Been afraid to work with seller fast but now I'm confident. I'm working on perfecting a hybrid workflow where I made contact sheets with the flatbed and then digital camera scan the selected ones
@@film_friends thank you, do you happen to know why there would be a color cast with scanning a bw neg using negative lab pro? Even during the conversion/resetting everything it will not scan it as bw
My newest scanner is a 21yrs old Epson Profection 2450 Photo, and the main reason why I got it is that it scans 4×5 film. Haven't shot 4×5 more than 30yrs, but still have a good deal of it from school days. Epson does make plugins for Image Capture, but I like to use the scanner in full pro mode, so I get a little dark edges when I scan. Have been using an old g4 mac to scan because for some reason the plugin doesn't like 4×5.
Hi I have Epson V850 pro and I'm looking for the best way to scan 110 negatives because Epson don't do holder for these negatives any ideas would be very appreciated. Thanks
Dude! Super helpful! Thank you for going through the various workflows. The “yummy film borders” as you call them is the main reason I opted for a flatbed scanner. By following your steps I have had great results so far!
That is amazing!! yes. the yummy film boarders are where it is at! I kinda rushed scanning the other day and didn't get them in there. I need to start doing it again.
Great video lesson. Thanks for posting. My daughter had a photo prof that told them to turn unsharpen off, open the histogram and slide the black to where the histogram starts the blacks on the left and the same with the whites on the right (thus undoing any auto settings), leave the image size at the size the negative is and put the resolution to 3200, or higher if the scanner can do it well (their lab had Epson V750s) and scan as a TIFF. She said the resulting file was like a RAW file from a DSLR's sensor. Finally, she said to open this TIFF as Camera Raw in Photoshop or LIghtroom and do all the editing there. This method treats the scanner sort of like a DSLR sensor saving in RAW. The images look really flat and a bit dark but everything is there for LR or PS to edit. What are your thoughts on this method?
This video was super helpful for me !! Thank you ver much. I have one question tho, the software of the V600 tells me the I can't use a hub to connect the usb to my MacBook. But since the new MacBooks don't have a usb inlet anymore I have to use some sort of an adaptor. Will a Thunderbolt adaptor work since the Hub that own didn't ?
As far a fast scanning are you taking about the epson fast foto printer scanner ? I have several thousand pics and about to order it of a better version. My pictures are 40- 60 years old.
Hello! I tried the link the the Amazon to find the V600 Scanner and instead it links to the cleaning kit. Do you think you could share the link to where you got the Scanner from. Thank you!
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
Its something deep to think about for sure. I don't know the answer. I am a professional photographer on digital and sometimes i love my digitial over film. But somtimes the film slapps better. It kinda is a preference.
I saw in the NLP group that when you go to white balance the profile to white balance should say "Negative Lab Pro (current version)". If you click the 4 squares you'll find it. In my case I there are 4 NLP profiles to pick from. I just go with current version 2.3. I'm not sure what difference or how much of a difference it will make, but just thought I'd mention it.
Love the video dude. So helpful and easy to understand. didn't even know about silverfast 8 because it's not on the download page anymore made scanning 100x times easier than using epson scan
Would you know why some of my imports from scanner aren’t allowing me to white balance, when trying to edit in Lightroom classic ? I was able to early on, then all of sudden something changed. The white dropper is greyed out now and I can use it, so then I can use negative lab pro. Thank you !
I just ordered a V600 scanner. Your channel has been the most helpful channel on all of youtube for getting my 35mm workflow up and running. I'll be rolling with silverfast and darktable software, but will probably upgrade to lightroom soon.
Great Video wished you gone more into detail silverfast about restoring the negativ and removing dust scratchets, etc maybe you dive into this in a new episode
I don’t know some of the power user stuff of silverfast like if there is fine dust removal and scratch removal and stuff! I am sorry! I really just know that on Lightroom
this is a great video, but im really confused because I went to the epsonUS website and to the v600 product like you, did, but it didnt have any of the downloads or silverfast? Im not sure why
-i may be a bit dumb bc it looks like the scanner came with a cd with the downloads on it but im not seeing silverfast and anyway it should probably be on the website?
If you go to the drivers for the scanner on the epson website, it is a spot where it ha a link to silverfasts download. It requires your scanner serial number
When scanning my 35mm and converting in Neg Lab pro I notice some abstract digital marks on the picture, mostly on edges of subjects such as an ear or chin. Not sure why and not sure how i can fix it. Its definitely done during the scanning process
Will, I recently started scanning using my fuji x pro3 and 80mm lens. I think I see an image quality difference now. I used the epson v700 for a 1000 years now. the light source of the v700 may have shifted, dimmed or faded. I have noticed a difference in results from both methods. camera scanning has the best results, any thoughts? I use vuescan, NLP and lightroom with the v700.
I often tried to scan perforated film, but it was a nightmare. When I heard from you to turn off "Auto" and "CCR" I thought I was going to pass out. Biggest thanks haha
is there a difference in sharpness from using the film holder or mounting straight to the glass? I heard that the v700 changes to a different lower res lens if it scans something directly on the glass
Hello! This video helped me a lot! But I have a question, which settings should I use for scanning the hole negative, for contact sheets? I want to edit in Negative Lab Pro, so it has to be 48bit HDR RAW, but hoy many ppl? Thanks! Valen.
Hey! I'm so glad I could help! You can use the same settings for scanning the whole thing, but remember to zoom in and focus on one of the frames first and lock in the exposure, then reframe once it is locked. The problem with doing full contact sheets is sometimes the exposure isnt perfect on all of them. for NLP the pp can be whatever you feel is best. cranking it up all the way is usually best but large files.
Hey, great video! One tip I can give you is to make a tiff copy in the negative lab pro window. The tiff copy sliders, like exposure, will then function properly :)
Do you have any idea why I'm missing the "auto" in negafix and why when expanding, after turning off CCR, the frame becomes again weird and white and I have no idea what to do ? Thank you very much for this video though!!
Yeah sorry that section was such a blip in this video. So adjust your frame without boarders, adjust colors, then turn off both auto AND CCR, then recrop
@@film_friends well.. I don't have an auto button that I can turn off, but I turned off ccr and when readjusting the frame it's just becoming again white (I mean, weird lol). I found an another way, I saved the options after adjusting everything (in negafix) and then I readjusted the frame and then uploaded the saved options ,lol , it worked !
It might have been an issues with how You scanned it or potentially the actual camera that shot it. But lots of factors tell me more. I saw your other message about messaging me. Hit me up on IG if ya want
If you were going to pull the scanned image into Lightroom, is there any reason you didn't output as a tiff or dng from SilverFast then export as a jpg from Lightroom? If you scan as a jpg, edit it, and then export as a jpg you're doubling up on the compression.
Ahh. You export as jpeg for the first one when you pull it into Lightroom, then you export as dng when you show your Negative Lab Pro workflow. Suppose I should have watched to the end of the video... lol
@@film_friends actually I didn't need LR either. I opted to use it, out if prefetence, but essentially silverfox exported to my computer and I could open it wherever I wanted.
Hi Will... I've been following your videos on developing and scanning film. Great videos... thanx a lot. My question is: do you ever have prints made for the wall from your scanned and corrected pictures? Do they come out as you see them on your screen or how do you calibrate your corrections with the print house? Could maybe be a theme for a new video? Cheers, Henrik
Yeah I do! And that sounds like a good idea for a video! Some times you do have to make adjustments for certain print houses. You get some test prints and make sure the colors match what your ant
I know that some people just enjoy using film over digital, but I don't see any advantage if in the end you take your film negative and scan them into digital form, unless you have a lot of old negatives that you want to digitize. Is there any inherent advantage to digitizing film vs just capturing digitally with today's modern digital sensors that justifies the lengthy process beyond the aesthetics?
there are a TON of reasons really. but here is a thought. how do you see any image today? everything has been digitized. even if you went from your film to a print, to get that print anywhere you need to digitize it. so you are scanning your print then. film does a few things, it has character and color in the film stock, which you can get close to or a pro might be able to match but the film just gives it to you. film uses old film cameras, which have really beautiful vintage glass that gives a lot of character to the image. you can adapt that glass to digital but hardly anyone does. you get mistakes, out of focus, not perfectly in focus, all that kinda stuff from manual focusing. you can do that on digital, but most dont. you dont "cheek" and look at all your images the moment you take them. it makes you think more about your composition and put you in the moment. i tend to like my film more for their thought of composition and WAY less photos to look through. I shoot digital at weddings right now and add some film in during the portrait session. there are uses for both
Thanks for this great video. 1) Do you really think the V600 is good enough for 19"x13" prints from 35mm and from 120 roll film 6x6 negs? 2) Is all this compatible with my Mac OS Mojave? 3) Is there a good enough way of converting neg to pos in Photoshop? Thanks so much! Peter.
1: from 35mm prob not. 120 might be able to get you some large prints. I think i said in the video I didn’t like the 35mm output that much. 2: should be. 3: photoshop would be a slow process. Negative lab pro does not plug into there. Basically you should conversing silverfast or filmlabapp or something before you get to photoshop.
Negative Lab Pro convert doesn’t work at all for me idk why, it stays the exact same color just a tiny different shade of orange but it looks the exact same (I scan on an Epson)
The problem I have with Negative Lab Pro is that it doesn't really convert the negatives "true to life" but gives them a distinct "NLP look," I guess to be recognizable. That's not what I want when scanning an image to edit, though... I would like to have a look as close to a standard darkroom print as possible. From how I know Ultramax, how it came out of Silverfast in the beginning is more or less how it looks - explosive colors, a bit over the top. Red and blue. If I want a look that's far away from the actual film, it's better to just shoot digital
I have several more videos discussing this topic. The real question is “what is standard” I mean true to life is good but every lab will give you a different scan. There are tons of settings in the NLP to dial it closer to life or what your looking for! It’s hard to do sometimes
Hey guys, ask any questions about scanning with the V600 and I will answer and help ya through it. also reach out on IG @1willcobb for direct convo help if you need. I am here to get you guys going! also welcome if you came from the developing video :D
I just bought a Epson V600 and I'm running it on Windows. I've been looking for the Epson Scanner 2 app and I can't find it. Do you know if they offer it for both Windows and Mac?
@@Jorge-125 It should be on both windows and mac. Also, i think it is on the epson downloads page and/or in the drivers section of the printer on their website. I personally never really liked using it, that is why I trashed on it at the beginning of that section haha.
@@film_friends Alright thanks, I'll look for it! And thanks for the fast reply.
Of course
I may be a little late to reply but might as well give it a shot.
I recently bout an rosin V600, downloaded all the software to my MacBook Pro tried scanning some negatives but the software doesn’t seem to want to scan, I tired on the rosin 2 software and works fine, any ideas?
All the respect for the IN DEPTH videos! Thank you!
Of. Course! That’s what I love doing!
Same as the first video on the devlopment part, this was my to go on how to scan my films at home. Many thanks !
yay! thats so awesome to hear! thanks so much for the support!
the part where you explain on how to scan the film borders(sprockets) helped tremendously. Thank you!
So glad i could help! Hit me up if you need anything else.
I laboriously scan individual 120 negs. Three microns of the neg's edges rest on the V600 holder. It takes a steady hand to get the loaded holder onto the scanner bed without moving the negs. And forget the blower. It will dislodge the negs.
yeah, a lab scan will always be higher fidelity than home scanning, You just cant get arround some of the human error. I tape my 120 to the bed. haha i think it looks great
Great in depth video! I have a V500 and it's a shame Epson only include free Silverlight software for the V550/600
are you sure? ! go use your product key with silverfast and see
Why is it that scanning software always looks like it stopped evolving in the mid 90s?
Gosh that’s so true. I have no dang idea. Get with the times people. I guess that’s when people stopped caring?
Probaly because thats around when digital photography gained a good amount of photographers who only used film until then. But I tell myself its for aesthetic purposes. 😅
No one printed anything since then 😂
Recording DAW software might be just as bad lol
This is precisely the introduction to film that I was looking for. I really appreciate the explanations to everything, makes me feel much more confident about starting to develop and scan at home.
Yesssss that is what I like to hear! So glad i could help!
Have done a few scans recently after punching a scanner and NLP.... My god what a difference there is in quality. Previously haven't been very happy at all with lab scans from Frontier but now feel confident that I can develop and scan at home and have a much better image than what I can get from the labs here. Cheers for your help mate!
Yeah! It’s so great to do it yourself and have so much control!! Glad I could help
what scanner are you using?
This is the epson v600
DANG, this was amaaaazingly helpful!
So glad I could help!
Just got a v700 very excited to start develping and scanning at home
Yess I am so excited for you! Share them with me on IG if you need help!
Hi! Thanks for a such useful video! I just bought my V600 and you helped me a lot to understand its work!
so glad i could help!!
Thank you so much you can’t imagine how much i love you right now
Super glad i could help! hahaha
I used a V600 also for ages. Anyways I digitalize as 'backup' and to can choose quickly which frame I want to print in darkroom. Now I use Olympus E-M5 III with its 60mm macro lens using a repro stand, a slimlite at 5000 K, and insert the entire film (135 or 120) inside the Durst Sirioneg of my enlarger with the clear glass down. Once all this is ok (10 minutes), just few minutes to scan the whole film. And the quality is really stunning
That’s a good setup
Getting technical, tweaking the Y,M,C channels will be similar to using the darkroom. I worked with someone who could look at a print, decide that it needed more green, and knew which CMY she needed to add to get the effect. Also- each film has its own colour profile. depending on the settings in camera, it can effect that outcome.
yeah thats a great way to work
yes pleaseee do a lightroom + NLP tutorial, I just caved and bought both and your film tutorials are the only ones I can follow D;
Haha I will do it! Very soon!
@@film_friends thank you so much, all your tutorials are amazing keep it up bro
Thanks so much!!
OMG thank you so much for making this video, it's the most comprehensive yet so easy to understand
Hey that means a lot! Thank you for watching! And I’m glad you got some value from it Sh
Yours is the best vid on the internet THANK YOU
Thank you!
Thank you kindly for the tutorial. Using Silverfast without tutorials for batch processing was painful, you've clarified the process immensely.
If you'd like a foolproof way to apply noise reduction in Lightroom, zoom into an image up to 8:1 ( I'm using Lightroom 6 ) Use part of an image that is uniform in colour and smooth in texture. Then slide both the Luminance and Detail sliders all the way to the right (100%) and then slide back (left) on the Detail slider until the majority of the artifacts are gone. Then slide the Luminance slider left until you're happy with the noise/sharpness blend.
yeah thats a great way to do it!
Thank You for the rescue of my Scanning-Life ;-)
Great Video
So glad I could help!
woohoooo I've been waiting for this one! Love your tutorials.
Thank you so much Lily! That means a lot! I’m glad I could make a great tutorial for ya!
Seeing your 35mm shots just confirms why I don't shoot 35mm anymore, medium format just gets cleaner image results on 120 film.
Yeah it does!
Thanks for the very informative video. I didn't know there was a lot of color correction going on when you scan film negatives. I really liked how you used Silver fast and negative lab pro for the negative scans and compared them.
Yeah! Thank you. So it is hard to compare because there is a lot you could dial in creatively
EXCELLENT very informative... but also enjoyed your engaging personality... made learning 😊
Thanks so much!
A most instructive and well thought out video. Thanks for that.
Thank you so much!!!
easily the best guide to scanning i've seen so far on youtube
thank you so much for your work! the quality of your videos is outstanding!
i was having thoughts on scanning my negatives by myself and now i'm totally gonna get into it
would love to see a guide on your lightroom routine as well
wishing you all the best from russia! :)
You should def get into it!!
Yes I’m gonna do a Lightroom video!
Thanks for hanging! Welcome! I have a roll on b&w Russian film I need to take out
Really appreciate this video, thanks Will! Keep at it!
Thank you!
Great video. My filverfast version is 8.8 and I don't see the 'Auto' option in the Negfix tool. Is it rmoved from this version or do I need to enable ?
I may be, or it may be hidden in some other setting
Do you need NLP and silver in order to use NLP?
you dont need silverfast but that is what is best with the v600 i think
Thank you for the detailed video and sharing your knowledge!! I started developing do to your developing video. I started with the scanner and with this info it wil go a lot beter. Thank you again!! Something I started to do is making “contact sheets”. Just scanning the full strips in de holder at a lower setting. Than checking what I want to scan. And than putting the time in de scan’s that I want. I do that to save som time.
You are so welcome!. Yeah thats a cool thing to do with the contact sheets. I think it is cool to scan the whole line of the film strip. its cool to see them all together.
I have the same scanner and always had a hard time scanning film to show the borders. Tape!? That’s all I had to do!? 😂 Thanks for the help man!!
I like the tape look. Purists will say its not the right height from the scanner... idk i dont see it
It also works if you use the DigitaLIZA (35 mm) Scanning Mask from Lomography. Just tried it with my Epson and it works great. I worked with the scanning mask before in combination with a digital camera, but it is just as easy with the Epson.
Hi, thank you so much for this tutorial. So very useful and informative. Please, I have an issue where when I scan the image, the resulting image is covered with labels "LaserSoft Imaging". Please how do I turn this off in SilverFast 8? Thank you very much.
It sounds like there is some sort of demo mode turned on
Thank you man, this tutorial is very helpful!!!
I am so glad I could help ya out!
Really good comprehensive video. Been afraid to work with seller fast but now I'm confident. I'm working on perfecting a hybrid workflow where I made contact sheets with the flatbed and then digital camera scan the selected ones
I would love to see that! I love the idea of contact sheets
Hi! Is scanning with film borders the same for a bw negative? Lightroom will not let me adjust white balance at all
Yeah it is. The white balance prob isnt as important with b*w
@@film_friends thank you, do you happen to know why there would be a color cast with scanning a bw neg using negative lab pro? Even during the conversion/resetting everything it will not scan it as bw
@rachelbonpen3009 I havnt don’t b&w in a bit im not too sure why that would be happening
Thanks this was very helpful navigating the technical stuff.
For sure!!
Dope, thanks for the step by step video, much needed!
Thanks so much!!! Here to help!
My newest scanner is a 21yrs old Epson Profection 2450 Photo, and the main reason why I got it is that it scans 4×5 film. Haven't shot 4×5 more than 30yrs, but still have a good deal of it from school days. Epson does make plugins for Image Capture, but I like to use the scanner in full pro mode, so I get a little dark edges when I scan. Have been using an old g4 mac to scan because for some reason the plugin doesn't like 4×5.
thats interesting hmm
Hi I have Epson V850 pro and I'm looking for the best way to scan 110 negatives because Epson don't do holder for these negatives any ideas would be very appreciated. Thanks
just slap them down on the glass! I think i showed that in the video
Great video thank you! Is there a way to set color space to Adobe 1998 in SilverFast 8?
that sounds amazing but I am not sure! SOrry !
Dude! Super helpful! Thank you for going through the various workflows. The “yummy film borders” as you call them is the main reason I opted for a flatbed scanner. By following your steps I have had great results so far!
That is amazing!! yes. the yummy film boarders are where it is at! I kinda rushed scanning the other day and didn't get them in there. I need to start doing it again.
@@film_friends yeah it definitely slows down the scanning time, but so worth it. 😬
hello excellent video .. one question ,, can you scan black and white negatives ..? What configuration would you recommend?
Yeah b&w is the same. And what configuration recommendation are you looking for?
Thanks man, very helpfull and no bullshit tutorial! Amazing, keep the good work up
Thank you so much!!!
Great video lesson. Thanks for posting. My daughter had a photo prof that told them to turn unsharpen off, open the histogram and slide the black to where the histogram starts the blacks on the left and the same with the whites on the right (thus undoing any auto settings), leave the image size at the size the negative is and put the resolution to 3200, or higher if the scanner can do it well (their lab had Epson V750s) and scan as a TIFF. She said the resulting file was like a RAW file from a DSLR's sensor. Finally, she said to open this TIFF as Camera Raw in Photoshop or LIghtroom and do all the editing there. This method treats the scanner sort of like a DSLR sensor saving in RAW. The images look really flat and a bit dark but everything is there for LR or PS to edit. What are your thoughts on this method?
Thats a good method. I think it is a really good idea. there are many ways to get there and that sounds like a great one!
Such an amazingly helpful video! Thanks so much.
Absolutely! I’m here to help!
This video was super helpful for me !! Thank you ver much. I have one question tho, the software of the V600 tells me the I can't use a hub to connect the usb to my MacBook. But since the new MacBooks don't have a usb inlet anymore I have to use some sort of an adaptor. Will a Thunderbolt adaptor work since the Hub that own didn't ?
So for some reason, something’s just don’t like hubs. Try a direct converter that just converts usb to usb-c
@@film_friends Will do, thx !
Absolutely
Have you tried Film Lab App?? Looking for a more aff
ordable software to use alongside silverfast.
I tried it once, its okay!
Fantastic content, just subbed. Stuff like this is priceless for people new to scanning like myself. Looking forward to seeing the channel grow.
Hey I’m so glad I could help you out! Thanks so much for being here!
great video 👍👍
Thank yoU!
As far a fast scanning are you taking about the epson fast foto printer scanner ? I have several thousand pics and about to order it of a better version. My pictures are 40- 60 years old.
I have not tried that one! How is it?
Hello! I tried the link the the Amazon to find the V600 Scanner and instead it links to the cleaning kit. Do you think you could share the link to where you got the Scanner from. Thank you!
amzn.to/3XShShR
This is the one! I got my locally
Verry interresting and complete thank you
Thanks you so much!
Great video ! Thanks .
Glad you liked it!
I have a V370. Can I get similar results?
Yeah absolutely
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
Its something deep to think about for sure. I don't know the answer. I am a professional photographer on digital and sometimes i love my digitial over film. But somtimes the film slapps better. It kinda is a preference.
Thank you for this in depth video. It helps a lot
Glad it was helpful! Please let me know if you have any questions!
I saw in the NLP group that when you go to white balance the profile to white balance should say "Negative Lab Pro (current version)". If you click the 4 squares you'll find it. In my case I there are 4 NLP profiles to pick from. I just go with current version 2.3.
I'm not sure what difference or how much of a difference it will make, but just thought I'd mention it.
Yeah I think i am on a slightly older version in this video. I need to fire up the new one. Thanks for this!
Love the video dude. So helpful and easy to understand. didn't even know about silverfast 8 because it's not on the download page anymore made scanning 100x times easier than using epson scan
Yeah it’s so much better dude! So glad I could help you!
Would you know why some of my imports from scanner aren’t allowing me to white balance, when trying to edit in Lightroom classic ? I was able to early on, then all of sudden something changed. The white dropper is greyed out now and I can use it, so then I can use negative lab pro.
Thank you !
Just curious... how long does it take to scan each negative at 3200 ppi?
maybe like 15 sec
@@film_friends Really? All the other TH-cam videos I've seen say the scanning time is 90-120 seconds per image.
Awesome vid as usual, great work!
Thank you so much!!
This is just amazing, can you please do a tutorial on lightroom; thank you so much it is very helpful
I did one for lightroom! check it out!
th-cam.com/video/Okqi6T6k0pM/w-d-xo.html
I already have corel paint shop pro. how do silverlab and negative lab pro compare?
i have not used silverlab. is it like negative lab?
@@film_friends yes
I just ordered a V600 scanner. Your channel has been the most helpful channel on all of youtube for getting my 35mm workflow up and running. I'll be rolling with silverfast and darktable software, but will probably upgrade to lightroom soon.
I’m so glad I could help! I’m about to get it kicked off a ton more!
Now SilverFast allows to scan 64-bit but it takes 30 mins, do you still do 48-bit HDR Raw?
Yeah i still use the lower one. it takes way too long for anything higher
What are the white dots on the scanned 35mm photo?
dust
I’m having a tough time!! It wants to scan the actual black frame instead of the negatives
Try to play with the selection settings
Great Video wished you gone more into detail silverfast about restoring the negativ and removing dust scratchets, etc maybe you dive into this in a new episode
I don’t know some of the power user stuff of silverfast like if there is fine dust removal and scratch removal and stuff! I am sorry! I really just know that on Lightroom
Can you go in depth on installing NLP on windows? I’m having the most difficult time making it work…
I just did a negative lab pro walk through where I showed the instal!
this is a great video, but im really confused because I went to the epsonUS website and to the v600 product like you, did, but it didnt have any of the downloads or silverfast? Im not sure why
-i may be a bit dumb bc it looks like the scanner came with a cd with the downloads on it but im not seeing silverfast and anyway it should probably be on the website?
If you go to the drivers for the scanner on the epson website, it is a spot where it ha a link to silverfasts download. It requires your scanner serial number
@@emilysanders4276 where you able to download it? I went silverfast website and entered my product serial number and received silverfast this way.
Hey man! Great video! Definitely interested in a LR tutorial video!
Thanks for the videos!
Thank you so much dude!!
Emulsion side up or down? Not all film has numbers.
I actually found it didnt matter
Very informative. Many thanks !
Thank you so much! Glad it helped!
what's the best imput profile for scannig in 48 bit HDR raw?
Like the DPI ?
When scanning my 35mm and converting in Neg Lab pro I notice some abstract digital marks on the picture, mostly on edges of subjects such as an ear or chin. Not sure why and not sure how i can fix it. Its definitely done during the scanning process
How are you scanning?
From email from Epson support, 24 Oct 2023
"Use Epson Scan (delete ES 2 for this scanner [V600])."
And Epson Scan 2 does not support ICE (infrared).
This video is a couple years old now, so yeah epson scan might have changed. I use silverfast
Will, I recently started scanning using my fuji x pro3 and 80mm lens. I think I see an image quality difference now. I used the epson v700 for a 1000 years now. the light source of the v700 may have shifted, dimmed or faded. I have noticed a difference in results from both methods. camera scanning has the best results, any thoughts? I use vuescan, NLP and lightroom with the v700.
so camera scanning with 35mm is really good. 120 is harder to get the resolution without stitching but it still looks great
Pure genius
Thank you!!
I often tried to scan perforated film, but it was a nightmare. When I heard from you to turn off "Auto" and "CCR" I thought I was going to pass out. Biggest thanks haha
Thank you! So helpful!
You are so welcome!
I want to get a scanner from your link but it sends me to "Professional Cleaner Kit" for some reason. You might've put wrong link brother
prob, the links change very frequently so it might be out of date, I will take a look
is there a difference in sharpness from using the film holder or mounting straight to the glass? I heard that the v700 changes to a different lower res lens if it scans something directly on the glass
I don’t see it on this one! I have heard that from many other people but I like the resolution! Get those borders! Do you have the v700?
Hello! This video helped me a lot! But I have a question, which settings should I use for scanning the hole negative, for contact sheets?
I want to edit in Negative Lab Pro, so it has to be 48bit HDR RAW, but hoy many ppl?
Thanks! Valen.
Hey! I'm so glad I could help! You can use the same settings for scanning the whole thing, but remember to zoom in and focus on one of the frames first and lock in the exposure, then reframe once it is locked. The problem with doing full contact sheets is sometimes the exposure isnt perfect on all of them.
for NLP the pp can be whatever you feel is best. cranking it up all the way is usually best but large files.
Hey, great video!
One tip I can give you is to make a tiff copy in the negative lab pro window. The tiff copy sliders, like exposure, will then function properly :)
I don’t think that was a feature when I made this vid! Iv talked about that in several other vids!
Does this proces ook work for the v550
Yeah I belive so but i dont have that to confirm
Do you have any idea why I'm missing the "auto" in negafix and why when expanding, after turning off CCR, the frame becomes again weird and white and I have no idea what to do ? Thank you very much for this video though!!
Yeah sorry that section was such a blip in this video. So adjust your frame without boarders, adjust colors, then turn off both auto AND CCR, then recrop
@@film_friends well.. I don't have an auto button that I can turn off, but I turned off ccr and when readjusting the frame it's just becoming again white (I mean, weird lol). I found an another way, I saved the options after adjusting everything (in negafix) and then I readjusted the frame and then uploaded the saved options ,lol , it worked !
@@film_friends but thank you very much for this video ! ❤❤❤❤
That’s a great workaround!!
@@nephthys49 of course!
Thanks for this. Have you tried Vu Scan...excellent.
I have a little bit! I need to explore it more
After scanning my negatives are a little too dark when I convert in Lightroom, the conversion blows out the highlights like crazy. Any tips?
It might have been an issues with how You scanned it or potentially the actual camera that shot it. But lots of factors tell me more.
I saw your other message about messaging me. Hit me up on IG if ya want
Great stuff dude, just subbed
Thank you SO much!! Welcome :)
Very informative
Thank you!!
i downloaded siverfast on my old pc how can i downloaded it to. my new pc? when i use the like it says this serial number is
I have it on all my computers, it should still work for each one. I dont think it is a 1 time download
Thank you!
If you were going to pull the scanned image into Lightroom, is there any reason you didn't output as a tiff or dng from SilverFast then export as a jpg from Lightroom?
If you scan as a jpg, edit it, and then export as a jpg you're doubling up on the compression.
You do output as a Tiff or DNG from silverfast.
Export the final image as JPG
@@film_friends Yeah. In the video you export from Silverfast as a jpeg (or maybe I'm mistaken).
Ahh. You export as jpeg for the first one when you pull it into Lightroom, then you export as dng when you show your Negative Lab Pro workflow. Suppose I should have watched to the end of the video... lol
You don't need the conversion software with Lightroom. I worked at a place where I scanned negatives for archives I never had a converter software
That’s awesome! You still used Lightroom?
@@film_friends actually I didn't need LR either. I opted to use it, out if prefetence, but essentially silverfox exported to my computer and I could open it wherever I wanted.
I have a V600 and I downloaded silverfish but I cant get silverfish to talk to my scanner. What am I doing wrong?
So you’ll still need to download the epson drivers to make it work right. And also try power cycling you scanner once silverfast is open
@@film_friends alright ill give that a whirl. thanks
Thank you so much
anything I can do to help
Hi Will... I've been following your videos on developing and scanning film. Great videos... thanx a lot. My question is: do you ever have prints made for the wall from your scanned and corrected pictures? Do they come out as you see them on your screen or how do you calibrate your corrections with the print house? Could maybe be a theme for a new video? Cheers, Henrik
Yeah I do! And that sounds like a good idea for a video! Some times you do have to make adjustments for certain print houses. You get some test prints and make sure the colors match what your ant
I know that some people just enjoy using film over digital, but I don't see any advantage if in the end you take your film negative and scan them into digital form, unless you have a lot of old negatives that you want to digitize. Is there any inherent advantage to digitizing film vs just capturing digitally with today's modern digital sensors that justifies the lengthy process beyond the aesthetics?
there are a TON of reasons really. but here is a thought. how do you see any image today? everything has been digitized. even if you went from your film to a print, to get that print anywhere you need to digitize it. so you are scanning your print then.
film does a few things, it has character and color in the film stock, which you can get close to or a pro might be able to match but the film just gives it to you.
film uses old film cameras, which have really beautiful vintage glass that gives a lot of character to the image. you can adapt that glass to digital but hardly anyone does.
you get mistakes, out of focus, not perfectly in focus, all that kinda stuff from manual focusing. you can do that on digital, but most dont.
you dont "cheek" and look at all your images the moment you take them. it makes you think more about your composition and put you in the moment. i tend to like my film more for their thought of composition and WAY less photos to look through.
I shoot digital at weddings right now and add some film in during the portrait session. there are uses for both
Thanks for this great video. 1) Do you really think the V600 is good enough for 19"x13" prints from 35mm and from 120 roll film 6x6 negs? 2) Is all this compatible with my Mac OS Mojave? 3) Is there a good enough way of converting neg to pos in Photoshop? Thanks so much! Peter.
1: from 35mm prob not. 120 might be able to get you some large prints. I think i said in the video I didn’t like the 35mm output that much.
2: should be.
3: photoshop would be a slow process. Negative lab pro does not plug into there. Basically you should conversing silverfast or filmlabapp or something before you get to photoshop.
Negative Lab Pro convert doesn’t work at all for me idk why, it stays the exact same color just a tiny different shade of orange but it looks the exact same (I scan on an Epson)
Thats so weird. Check out the NLP facebook group, its super helpful for stuff like that
The problem I have with Negative Lab Pro is that it doesn't really convert the negatives "true to life" but gives them a distinct "NLP look," I guess to be recognizable. That's not what I want when scanning an image to edit, though... I would like to have a look as close to a standard darkroom print as possible. From how I know Ultramax, how it came out of Silverfast in the beginning is more or less how it looks - explosive colors, a bit over the top. Red and blue. If I want a look that's far away from the actual film, it's better to just shoot digital
I have several more videos discussing this topic. The real question is “what is standard” I mean true to life is good but every lab will give you a different scan. There are tons of settings in the NLP to dial it closer to life or what your looking for! It’s hard to do sometimes