I came to the comment section looking for this comment because I felt the same thing. Go back and reapply liquid metal much much lighter and you're going to get at least 15 to 20 degrees better
10:40 That "beeping that was going on' are Windows beep codes. It was literally attempting to tell you what was wrong with it. 5 short beeps followed by 5 short beeps was saying to pull out the ram and put it back in.
ya, well if he put the thermal in the same way that he put the Liquid metal, the result will be the same, i had tried. Looks at 7:40, he s dumb or what... he should change the title to "Bad replacement Thermal compound" Me i got even around 47-50C with Thermal compound, in stead the metal liquid s around 50-55C.
Just a small tip to anyone trying to repaste laptop with liquid metal. You need to put a bit more than a thin layer you would put on when delidding. The laptop heatsink rarely makes a good contact with the die and often needs extra material.
@Skela Tonne ya, well if he put the thermal in the same way that he put the Liquid metal, the result will be the same, i had tried. Looks at 7:40, he s dumb or what... he should change the title to "Bad replacement Thermal compound" Me i got even around 47-50C with Thermal compound, in stead the metal liquid s around 50-55C. This guy just try to get the sponsor and that s the fact
A little idea here. You should've left that thermal "concrete" around the die and simply cleaned the top before doing LM. Since the concrete would be in two close fitting halves it would be great for keeping the LM from leaking out. That's especially important since this is a laptop which would move around.
That's a rather brilliant thought but, I wouldn't trust such to work as a sealer - it will leak and let you down at some point, the question is only when.
Depends on the laptop tbh. Tried thermal paste a bunch of times on my HP and it would still hit 90c. With liquid metal it stays below 80c and I can overclock it if I remove the battery (it reaches 92c otherwise). Probably should redo it with better tape and add VRM coolers. And also flash coreboot and upgrade CPU
@@Kuri0 you are right. after watching many test benchmarks videos, thermal paste carbon, silver, bla bla is not as good as liquid metal. YOU MUST need METAL LIQUID COOLING because less temperature=more lifespan and/or performance
@@AkashdeepSingh-qq5fw Liquid metal is conductive and should not be applied for fun. I would never liquid metal something i move frequently. If you need more performance get a better computer or a desktop.
mate there was no thermal paste between the heatsink and the die fans did nothing cuz the heat couldn't transfer from cpu die to the heatsink just very poorly
@@MajorHardware i always use an old credit card for scraping crust off dies as it has more contact area and hence is less likely to scratch and gouge. Good move with the iso but give it time to soak in and apply more if needed. It should go to a porridge like consistency if it is working well. I tend to find that once you've broke the skin on the crust you can remove the rest with iso dampened tissue.
lol not as bad as this youtuber with a shitty vid on how to boost fps on fortnite, he said a 60ghz screen is 60 fps XD. i think he was very very very mistaken
thoughts~ clear nail polish basically the same thing to seal off the fuses. 99% isoprobyl will loosen up that thermal concrete if given a few seconds, very little scraping required if any. i usually use Q-tips soaked in alcohol, you go through a few of them, but it works fantastically with very little stress on the device.
I know it's an old laptop, but I was seriously holding my breath when you went chiseling on the GPU and CPU, like it was some kind of a horror movie :o (i'm not gonna hold it against you in this case) :)
Don't use liquid metal for everyday applications unless you plan to keep your cpu perfectly horizontal at all times. It will liquefy again when it's hot and drip out, shorting whatever is in its path. Ic diamond or any quality non-conductive paste will give you within 90 percent of LM preformance with zero added risk of sudden system death. Unless it's a macbook, it's designed to keep everything cool enough at stock speeds with the crap that it came with anyway
I have been using same thermalgrizzly on my Asus N55SF with gt555m/2410m and had it in different positions for over half year and its perfectly fine...
@@Callagwhan it's definitely doable if you're aware of what you're doing and know the risks. It's just that there always will be some level of risk when introducing metal to electronics and with it becoming so popular, people might start doing it to their old 3rd gen i3 with integrated graphics and single fan that's meant to sit at 80c before even spinning up. In that case, there's just no reason to use something that could potentially corrode their heats ink and leak all over their board. You seem like you at least know the difference between RAM modules and VRMs. I'm saying this more for those who don't take the time to know exactly what theyre running before trying to augment it
From what I've seen if you use the correct amount. Which is the smallest possible amount to cover the die, which everyone i see uses 2 or 3 times more than they need. It should be okay when it comes to temperatures causeing it drip out. Now it can migrate over time slightly. From heat and pressure. But who knows how long that would take. Also the long term effect on the bare dies and the copper heatsink is slightly unknown. It will very slowly effect the copper, and if you have an aluminum laptop you better hope you don't accidentally spill any on the case or frame. I'd do it for fun on an old laptop but I'll stick to good quality non conductive pastes for my every day laptop.
Do you even know what you are talking about? Liquid metal stays liquid, it can dry up if exposed to direct airflow, but this doesn't happen as it is shielded by the heatsink. In the case of liquid metal surface tension and the viscosity of the liquid will keep it in place, physics is your friend. If you went overboard and applied too much, then of course it will have to displace itself and leak all over your CPU. Ive seen liquid metal after a year in a laptop and it just doesn't move as long as you apply the correct amount. The worst application of liquid metal I have seen is where the metal escaped about 1 cm onto the CPU, far too much was applied, but luckily not quite far enough to reach any caps, and yes this CPU had no conformal coating.
tyler. cleaning fan does not make any difference unless extremely lot of dust is there. The liquid metal. being known as the best thermal conductor(YOU MUST NEED IT even if you not overclock, allows the cpu to use all its potential without overheating. so that is why he got performance increase.
cool video man. if i may advise you about something, it is recommended to add some liquid metal to the cooler side as well as on the die, to brake the surface tension of the liquid .
I've seen your video on Facebook and a page basically repost your video when saying that it's awesome that you just change a thermal paste, but we know you and me that this is the most basic and common repaid on a laptop, that's funny xD Great video by the way!! :D
Awesome review! Very impressed. Can’t believe the thermal paste was so difficult to get off and hardened up that way... You saved the life of a laptop!
Wow! Boy, did you get those clean to mirror surfaces. Well done! And then the ACC. Awesome work. This old laptop got way more than it deserved but it was fun to watch your work and revive it! Awesome work, MH!
Oh lol, I watched this video a while ago but didn’t know your channel yet but now I watch your video’s quite frequently and realised you made this video
Love to see old hardware getting some TLC. And people wonder why Intel uses “toothpaste”. Very few pastes won’t dry out and pump out like this example did.
When applying LM, you may want to test-squeeze the syringe into/onto something that wont matter. OR even better, make your first squeeze onto the cooler, away from the mobo. You can watch on linus tech tips where they accidentally shot that stuff all over the place, probably because some tiny bit of hardened material was blocking the flow and the extra pressure they used caused it to shoot all over their components.
I see you used Acrylic Conformal Coating. Most LM videos I saw, actually all used non conducting tape. This looks actually much easier and seems safer. Thanks for the video.
yes acrylic conformable coating the way to go, it will completely seal off the electronics, i have even seen people put it on electronics and run them underwater. i wouldn't recommend that but its a great product just in case you get some liquid metal where you dont want it.
@@klek9396 well, you disassemble what's in the way of removing the poor excuse of "thermal paste" that manufacturers put between the heat sink and CPU/GPU and you use a high grade liquid metal ;) Yeah I know... I know. I omitted "metal" in my post, but I was so happy with the results... that I can't stop myself from telling anyone about them ^^ (and can't stop telling anyone how stupid mistakes are made in management sometimes, allowing top of the shelf hardware to be run way below specs because of cheaping out on low cost solutions...)
I've always wondered if it was worth the effort of spending that extra money and time to try save my 8 year old laptop with liquid metal thermal paste. Thank you for sharing the results!
I mean I don't really think it is 100% due to the liquid metal I think it is just because there was basically no thermal paste on the damn CPU/GPU lol...
Great video ! I've been watching your videos on liquid metal because I have a i7 8700 and I wanted to use liquid metal but I don't want to ruin my PC so thank you for your videos and your time ....I'll be watchn
Awesome video hands down. I have an old Lenovo Laptop. I wonder if i could do the same. You are right about “More Ram, & SSD”. In your Laptop to run better. Once again thank you for posting this video.
This was really useful for me. You simultaneously walked me through the entire application process AND offered a nice visual comparison. Maybe now I can pimp out all my little machines and make some all-in-ones at work more usable. Thanks.
The original issue was the thermal compound was dried/gone. Liquid metal is overkill 1-2degrees difference and same FPS by just replacing the compound correctly, also LM has many complications and isn't good for long-term functionality.
"THATS TOO MUCH LIQUID METAL" - Possibly or possibly not, they do not indicate a recommend amount to use. "IT WILL SPILL FROM THE SIDES" - Maybe, but doubtful i have carried, thrown and moved this laptop all over and as of now no issues additionally the acrylic conformable coating i used was the just in case step if some found its way out. ALSO PROBABLY THE REASON IT STILL RUNS HOT -OR because its a laptop with a 9 year old cooling setup the size of a deck of cards, laptops in general run hot, some hotter then others "Cough, Macbook" But who can really tell, in the end it was a free laptop from a friend used to experiment with liquid metal if it kicks the bucket you better believe we are going to open that bad boy up and see if liquid metal was to blame. I would not recommend doing this on a new laptop as the risk out ways the benefits.
Thx for the vid. BTW, technically isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) does leave some residue behind. The most potent alcohol I've tried which does NOT leave any residue behind is denatured alcohol. I find it at Home Depot in the painting department. But warning -- it is so caustic that you MUST use gloves. As a solvent, it's the most potent alcohol-based cleaning liquid I've ever found.
You can achieve the same result by just filing the surface of the heat extractor perfectly flat where it contacts the chip and using normal thermal paste.The heat will always move from the gpu to the extractor better if the two surfaces are completely flat and in good contact.
Poor friend who bought a new laptop when this just needed cooling.. alienware in that nebula red is my drem pc (though in 17 or 18 inch). awesome video man enjoyed 100%
A lot of good information but no one should be using a spudger to remove dried on thermal compound. The slightest flick would send the surface mount components on the chips flying. Arctic Silver makes a cleaning kit which softens it and can be removed cleanly, highly recommended to use that. When applying liquid metal you should surround the area with either clear tape or electrical tape. This is for two reasons. 1) It allows you to apply the liquid metal without the possibility of shorting anything out. 2) it allows you to remove it after it has been applied, if you wish. It won't hurt it either way. Applying conformal coating isn't necessarily bad but that's not a commonly accepted application.
2nd video I have seen of you failing to use liquid metal properly. That cpu should be in the mid 70s if it was cooling properly. you need to increase the clamping force if your not going to mill the surface flat on the heatsink. normal compound would preform better if done the way you just did. when i do this to a laptop i just bent the little legs up ever so slightly to increase the force on the die.
I am well aware of the fact that I am extremely late to the party here - but I still want to drop it: I would recommend using the Buildzoid approved method of applying liquid metal: put the cotton pin you were going to spread it with into the tube, and press a little bit out while the pin is firmly plugged in. It should then come out with a handy-dandy tot of metallic goo that's roughly enough to spread out over the surface of the die. Easy, hard to fuck up, no accidents. Nice.
UPDATE: 3/11/2019, This video has done quite well and i thank you all for this. I have gotten many requests to do a follow up video where we take this laptop back apart and see if any damage has occurred to the die and or heat sink. Have no fear this video is coming, currently my wife uses this laptop as a daily driver because believe it or not it still runs pretty dang good as of today. my question to all of you is how much time would you like me to let pass before we open it back up, 4/12/2019 will be 6 months or should we wait longer. leave a reply down below.
10:40 That "beeping that was going on' are Windows beep codes. It was literally attempting to tell you what was wrong with it. 5 short beeps followed by 5 short beeps was saying to pull out the ram and put it back in.
Wait longer. Go for a year, no one would put their PC apart just after 6 Months to check if there thermal compount is still intact. I removed my liquid metal cooled heatsink just after about 4 years and there was no damage whatsoever. But this stuff was hard to get rid of ;)
Awesome vid man.... for all those who will be attempting this the first time..... remember if u disconnect the bios battery to the board, after you connect the power give it like 5 mins for the board to charge up before u press that start button or u will enter into panic mode like here.... lol!!!!
liquid metal is gallistan (gallium, tin and other secret components), will have minimal reaction with copper, as in aesthetical and not performance deteriorating.
It'll corrode copper at an accelerated rate. Whether or not the corrosion affects heat transfer is an open question but consensus seems to be minimal to no impact.
We all know why it is sticky.....
@@noblesavage149 .... Solo *GAMING*
Pornhub sponsored games
Lots of porn since 2011 to 2019 made it stickey
I wanted to say that but you got it bro
Literally the words I was gonna say you and my brain fucked to make this brain child I
hey major hardware its me your friend i want my laptop back..
@AbdooMs EG hahhaa
Fake owner
Say bye bye to your laptop
@@ALIALI-eu3bk lol
🤣🤣this trick is tooo old
"That's a bit too much..." Proceeds to replace it with the exact same amount.
Lol nailed it
I came to the comment section looking for this comment because I felt the same thing. Go back and reapply liquid metal much much lighter and you're going to get at least 15 to 20 degrees better
@@ghfhgfuuu LOL Not with that heatsink. Dell's solution to cooling is more fan.
Laptops do not have IHS so over application doesnt result in as much thermal trapping as a desktop cpu
@@kylenelson1805 correct. It still doesn't fix the small heatsink.
"We're thermal throttling harder than a mac book now"
...
*Computer nerds' ears hear gunshot sound in the distance*
Lol
Nah, Apple haters like me would have laughed at that comment.
Computer nerds probably hate macbook as well
@@ozmobozo *Waves PC flag patriotically*
Oof
"Seems like a bit too much, let's suck some up" immedietely puts back exactly the same amount
he stuck some of it to other processor lol
to much liquid metal can make the temps hotter then stock paste. i bet if he took a bit more off it would have been cooler
Oh man it sucks only having 8 gigahertz of ram
what do you mean by gigahertz of ram?
@@vincenathancarabuena5075 did you watch the video?
@@vincenathancarabuena5075 he says it in the video
@@vincenathancarabuena5075 oh my lord... r/woooosh
I only had 8 gigahertz of RAM but then I deleted a bunch of files and now I have both of my drives running dual core.
"It's sticky. I don't know why it's sticky." Are you sure you don't? Are you *sure* you don't?
My thought exact xD
SO that's why the laptop broke down
@@bunkerspy7469 _ExcUsE mE WHat tHe FuCk_
ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO TOUCH IT!!!????!?!?!??!?!?
@@PepponeSilver touchy touch touch the _cuuuuummmm_
10:40 That "beeping that was going on' are Windows beep codes. It was literally attempting to tell you what was wrong with it. 5 short beeps followed by 5 short beeps was saying to pull out the ram and put it back in.
wow, thats some cool free knowledge i just got.
I questioned why it was beeping! If it's because of the memory, how did it post?
now this is a legit 1 to 60 fps video
Low fps was probably due to the thermal past being old (not saying that liquid metal didn't improve it)
have you ever seen thermal compound like that it was cray cray it was more like thermal concrete.
@@MajorHardware yes i've seen something like that... in my dead laptop that on desktop reached 58 degrees celsius xD
@@MajorHardware Yes, it's just old thermal paste, remember it hasn't been replaced in 7 years.
ya, well if he put the thermal in the same way that he put the Liquid metal, the result will be the same, i had tried. Looks at 7:40, he s dumb or what... he should change the title to "Bad replacement Thermal compound"
Me i got even around 47-50C with Thermal compound, in stead the metal liquid s around 50-55C.
The thermal design of this notebook is a joke. Only one fan for both CPU and GPU was even bad in 2011.
"it's sticky , I don't know why it's sticky" it's maybe because he's using a VPN when browsing the internet
WAIT WHAT? IT HAS 8GHZ OF RAM?!
Stinky Llama ghz of ram
@Manuel Antonio damn! GDDR5 as system memory!
Just a small tip to anyone trying to repaste laptop with liquid metal. You need to put a bit more than a thin layer you would put on when delidding. The laptop heatsink rarely makes a good contact with the die and often needs extra material.
Nice vid, I would change the name to just - 1FPS to 60FPS - How Cooling Can Bring Your Laptop Back To Life
@Skela Tonne ya, well if he put the thermal in the same way that he put the Liquid metal, the result will be the same, i had tried. Looks at 7:40, he s dumb or what... he should change the title to "Bad replacement Thermal compound"
Me i got even around 47-50C with Thermal compound, in stead the metal liquid s around 50-55C. This guy just try to get the sponsor and that s the fact
I would change it to: "How CLEANING Can Bring Your Laptop Back To Life". Normal thermal paste would be sufficient and it would be safer.
- sticky or not
"It only has 8 Giga Hertz, I like it to have at least 16" :P Funny
@@cybersamiches4028 hertz = Hz
@@cybersamiches4028 xD
He mean the ram.. That thing only have 8gb ram and want to upgrade it to 16gb
@@danishdanial3096 Yes, its the gigahertz that is funny
lol ikr
"I cleaned my laptop and now it works better"
A little idea here. You should've left that thermal "concrete" around the die and simply cleaned the top before doing LM. Since the concrete would be in two close fitting halves it would be great for keeping the LM from leaking out. That's especially important since this is a laptop which would move around.
That's a rather brilliant thought but, I wouldn't trust such to work as a sealer - it will leak and let you down at some point, the question is only when.
cleaning the fan did the real trick, just repaste it with any thermal paste woudl be fine too
Exactly. The laptops original TIM was stuffed and fans needed cleaning.
Depends on the laptop tbh. Tried thermal paste a bunch of times on my HP and it would still hit 90c. With liquid metal it stays below 80c and I can overclock it if I remove the battery (it reaches 92c otherwise). Probably should redo it with better tape and add VRM coolers. And also flash coreboot and upgrade CPU
@@Kuri0 you are right. after watching many test benchmarks videos, thermal paste carbon, silver, bla bla is not as good as liquid metal. YOU MUST need METAL LIQUID COOLING because less temperature=more lifespan and/or performance
@@AkashdeepSingh-qq5fw Liquid metal is conductive and should not be applied for fun. I would never liquid metal something i move frequently. If you need more performance get a better computer or a desktop.
Can we all agree that a proper test would have been to first clean the cooling fan/fins with old compound FIRST?.. and then continue.
Exactly ! in my opinion a new normal thermal paste would help a lot too
mate there was no thermal paste between the heatsink and the die fans did nothing cuz the heat couldn't transfer from cpu die to the heatsink just very poorly
U wouldn't get so many views with the title 55fps to60fps just by adding liquid metal cooling
Performance after thorough vacuum brush and alcohol would be interesting. But assembly and disassembly irritates my tolerance for stress.
i also had the 7 beeps of death... removed cmos battery for 5 mins, 5 beeps restarted it now has muchhhh better temps
How does all of this have any context?
Nearly had a heartattack when you went to remove the Tim from the chips with the screwdriver. Ohhh.. Nooo.. the capacitors..
lol its a plastic chisel from my i fix it kit so now worries.
@@MajorHardware nope, definite worries still, they are tiny caps that come off pretty easily and are a pain in the ass to replace....
just take your time and you will be a o k
@@MajorHardware i always use an old credit card for scraping crust off dies as it has more contact area and hence is less likely to scratch and gouge. Good move with the iso but give it time to soak in and apply more if needed. It should go to a porridge like consistency if it is working well. I tend to find that once you've broke the skin on the crust you can remove the rest with iso dampened tissue.
Only AMD chips have capacitors on the top side of the chip, most Intel chIPs have them on the underside
8ghz of ram? Lol didnt know they made ram in ghz now.
@@pl0dman925 Lmao.. 😂
80GHz of RAM, QuadPort GPU, Bates 4000 ... it doesn't go anywhere from here .... it is the future, man!!!
lol not as bad as this youtuber with a shitty vid on how to boost fps on fortnite, he said a 60ghz screen is 60 fps XD. i think he was very very very mistaken
DR3 modules can transfer data at a rate of 800-2133 MT/s using both rising and falling edges of a 400-1066 MHz I/O clock.
i just downloaded 64 ghz of ram clocked at 3600 gb
6:28 That thermal paste 😭😭 great to see you breathe new life into a legacy machine 🔥🔥
it was fun, me and my friend had many of late nights playing star craft II on this bad boy
*Alien jizz has high thermal transfer properties, tho it turns to concrete when the warranty runs out. Ask any Alienware employee*
thoughts~ clear nail polish basically the same thing to seal off the fuses. 99% isoprobyl will loosen up that thermal concrete if given a few seconds, very little scraping required if any. i usually use Q-tips soaked in alcohol, you go through a few of them, but it works fantastically with very little stress on the device.
Him: It's sticky. I don't know why it's sticky.
Me: I do.
Funny and original
Underrated comment
I know it's an old laptop, but I was seriously holding my breath when you went chiseling on the GPU and CPU, like it was some kind of a horror movie :o (i'm not gonna hold it against you in this case) :)
I'd be disinfecting that laptop if your mate made it all sticky, was the sock that came out of the fan all sticky too
Don't use liquid metal for everyday applications unless you plan to keep your cpu perfectly horizontal at all times. It will liquefy again when it's hot and drip out, shorting whatever is in its path. Ic diamond or any quality non-conductive paste will give you within 90 percent of LM preformance with zero added risk of sudden system death. Unless it's a macbook, it's designed to keep everything cool enough at stock speeds with the crap that it came with anyway
I have been using same thermalgrizzly on my Asus N55SF with gt555m/2410m and had it in different positions for over half year and its perfectly fine...
@@Callagwhan how hot do you let it get though?
@@Callagwhan it's definitely doable if you're aware of what you're doing and know the risks. It's just that there always will be some level of risk when introducing metal to electronics and with it becoming so popular, people might start doing it to their old 3rd gen i3 with integrated graphics and single fan that's meant to sit at 80c before even spinning up. In that case, there's just no reason to use something that could potentially corrode their heats ink and leak all over their board. You seem like you at least know the difference between RAM modules and VRMs. I'm saying this more for those who don't take the time to know exactly what theyre running before trying to augment it
From what I've seen if you use the correct amount. Which is the smallest possible amount to cover the die, which everyone i see uses 2 or 3 times more than they need. It should be okay when it comes to temperatures causeing it drip out. Now it can migrate over time slightly. From heat and pressure. But who knows how long that would take. Also the long term effect on the bare dies and the copper heatsink is slightly unknown. It will very slowly effect the copper, and if you have an aluminum laptop you better hope you don't accidentally spill any on the case or frame. I'd do it for fun on an old laptop but I'll stick to good quality non conductive pastes for my every day laptop.
Do you even know what you are talking about? Liquid metal stays liquid, it can dry up if exposed to direct airflow, but this doesn't happen as it is shielded by the heatsink.
In the case of liquid metal surface tension and the viscosity of the liquid will keep it in place, physics is your friend. If you went overboard and applied too much, then of course it will have to displace itself and leak all over your CPU.
Ive seen liquid metal after a year in a laptop and it just doesn't move as long as you apply the correct amount.
The worst application of liquid metal I have seen is where the metal escaped about 1 cm onto the CPU, far too much was applied, but luckily not quite far enough to reach any caps, and yes this CPU had no conformal coating.
Hey I just noticed this was the laptop of Sheldon Cooper in big bang theory. 😁
Am I the only one that would have liked to see dust bunnies cleaned out of the video card?
Was currious about the 5 Beep. Forums show it's likely a low CMOS battery. Just had to read the settings again... (P.O.S.T.)
All I did was a quick search on my phone just to find out.
Wow the title was not misleading , very good video too .
THANK YOU !!!
ya iw as skeptical of title to
Major Hardware can u like not tell the sarcasm?
@@shawnliu208 Much Appreciated
It's sticky lol I don't know why it's sticky lol.....
@Dawid Jandzinski ur in special education
"It's sticky! I don't know why it's sticky..."
Oh, you young boy... You will know when the day comes... :)
i have been told..........🍆
Yes. The fucking coating degraded.
"1FPS to 60FPS Just By Adding Liquid Metal!" except the fact that you cleaned the fan also. Lies and Slander!
I mean cleaning the fan is technically kooling so
@@vamer4926 Yeah but it was quoted "Just By Adding Liquid Metal" Bet half the gains would of been had cleaning fans and not adding the LM.
Lester Piglet no doubt.
Also SSD and clean Windows installation
tyler. cleaning fan does not make any difference unless extremely lot of dust is there. The liquid metal. being known as the best thermal conductor(YOU MUST NEED IT even if you not overclock, allows the cpu to use all its potential without overheating. so that is why he got performance increase.
I could care less about computers, but I watch most of your videos for the science included in the content. Keep up the good work buddy
This is looking like a laptop of sheldon from Big Bang theory
Congratulations on restoring the laptop to its former glory!
**Shows 2 FPS**
Major Hardware: We're on 2 FPS
**Turns to 3 FPS**
It's so satisfying to watch you scrape of thermal concrete off the CPU and GPU
cool video man.
if i may advise you about something, it is recommended to add some liquid metal to the cooler side as well as on the die, to brake the surface tension of the liquid .
Didn't we see him do that here...
I've seen your video on Facebook and a page basically repost your video when saying that it's awesome that you just change a thermal paste, but we know you and me that this is the most basic and common repaid on a laptop, that's funny xD
Great video by the way!! :D
Bet the guy wants his laptop back now...
Jason Lor he defo would have after the SSD upgrade as this thing would have flew like shit off a shovel after that!
Awesome review! Very impressed. Can’t believe the thermal paste was so difficult to get off and hardened up that way... You saved the life of a laptop!
It's sticky! Ever wonder what he used that laptop for😉😉
Slow from all the thrash clicking.... links on the internet wildly gives ya.
Copied
@@spencerhorton1937 ?
Saurabh Barve yes hai
It's called hentai and it is art.
Wow! Boy, did you get those clean to mirror surfaces. Well done! And then the ACC. Awesome work. This old laptop got way more than it deserved but it was fun to watch your work and revive it! Awesome work, MH!
Thank you
The little fan that could...
that fan takes 0 shits
Oh lol, I watched this video a while ago but didn’t know your channel yet but now I watch your video’s quite frequently and realised you made this video
Thought it was a clickbait but its actually true. Nice vid man
Thank you
Love to see old hardware getting some TLC. And people wonder why Intel uses “toothpaste”. Very few pastes won’t dry out and pump out like this example did.
im subbing this is the content im coming for G
Happy to have ya
This proves older stuff can still compete
someone stole sheldons laptop
bazinga
The moment I've heared the word "sticky", I paused the video and scrolled down to see all the sticky related comments and boy was I pleased :D
Procesor did face reveal! this is firdt video im watching on this channel :D
Your getting a like just for the macbook jab. Excellent!
AHAH One frame I was alive... then died the other one
When applying LM, you may want to test-squeeze the syringe into/onto something that wont matter. OR even better, make your first squeeze onto the cooler, away from the mobo. You can watch on linus tech tips where they accidentally shot that stuff all over the place, probably because some tiny bit of hardened material was blocking the flow and the extra pressure they used caused it to shoot all over their components.
Isn't liquid metal gallium, careful of that aluminium heat sink
Yikes
Yeah you'll wanna avoid contact with that
EDG would it cause amalgamation like with mercury and aluminium?... or..?
@@laurelandree7753 Only if the heat sink's polish was removed/scratched and it made direct contact
The heat would speed up the process if it did
The heatsink is copper. It's not plated
I see you used Acrylic Conformal Coating. Most LM videos I saw, actually all used non conducting tape. This looks actually much easier and seems safer. Thanks for the video.
yes acrylic conformable coating the way to go, it will completely seal off the electronics, i have even seen people put it on electronics and run them underwater. i wouldn't recommend that but its a great product just in case you get some liquid metal where you dont want it.
“it’s sticky, i don’t know why it’s sticky” 👀 0:45
I like how you can hear hdd's when they're on their way out
you can hear most HDDs even when they're new, they just get a bit louder with age
Ha! I am sure it cant beat my 1gb ram Pentinum
Agreed... I lost 25 degrees C from liquid cooling my laptop.
It was ridiculously hot running low graphics... now, it's playable :)
how do you liquid cool a laptop
@@klek9396 well, you disassemble what's in the way of removing the poor excuse of "thermal paste" that manufacturers put between the heat sink and CPU/GPU and you use a high grade liquid metal ;)
Yeah I know... I know. I omitted "metal" in my post, but I was so happy with the results... that I can't stop myself from telling anyone about them ^^
(and can't stop telling anyone how stupid mistakes are made in management sometimes, allowing top of the shelf hardware to be run way below specs because of cheaping out on low cost solutions...)
This laptop looks beautiful and cooler than anything out there in even 2019 much betteer than ugly boring macbook pro 19
I've always wondered if it was worth the effort of spending that extra money and time to try save my 8 year old laptop with liquid metal thermal paste. Thank you for sharing the results!
I mean I don't really think it is 100% due to the liquid metal I think it is just because there was basically no thermal paste on the damn CPU/GPU lol...
yes, it was around the gpu and cpu....
@@lordtachanka2371 Yeah true but dry thermal paste does nothing to help cool the CPU/GPU.
Great video ! I've been watching your videos on liquid metal because I have a i7 8700 and I wanted to use liquid metal but I don't want to ruin my PC so thank you for your videos and your time ....I'll be watchn
as far as i can tell as long as you are careful you should be fine
Awesome video hands down. I have an old Lenovo Laptop. I wonder if i could do the same. You are right about “More Ram, & SSD”. In your Laptop to run better. Once again thank you for posting this video.
Thank you for watching I appreciate it for sure
I could feel him thinking through my screen when it wouldn't post. That suspense.
haha shit got real for a second
“Blew out the fan and an entire sock came out”😂
The stick sock. 😉😃
Gotta love the Macbook burn there
In this case, mx-4 is the choise
This was really useful for me. You simultaneously walked me through the entire application process AND offered a nice visual comparison. Maybe now I can pimp out all my little machines and make some all-in-ones at work more usable. Thanks.
The original issue was the thermal compound was dried/gone. Liquid metal is overkill 1-2degrees difference and same FPS by just replacing the compound correctly, also LM has many complications and isn't good for long-term functionality.
That's too much liquid metal. It will spill from the sides. Also probably the reason it still runs hot.
"THATS TOO MUCH LIQUID METAL"
- Possibly or possibly not, they do not indicate a recommend amount to use.
"IT WILL SPILL FROM THE SIDES"
- Maybe, but doubtful i have carried, thrown and moved this laptop all over and as of now no issues additionally the acrylic conformable coating i used was the just in case step if some found its way out.
ALSO PROBABLY THE REASON IT STILL RUNS HOT
-OR because its a laptop with a 9 year old cooling setup the size of a deck of cards, laptops in general run hot, some hotter then others "Cough, Macbook"
But who can really tell, in the end it was a free laptop from a friend used to experiment with liquid metal if it kicks the bucket you better believe we are going to open that bad boy up and see if liquid metal was to blame. I would not recommend doing this on a new laptop as the risk out ways the benefits.
Thx for the vid. BTW, technically isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) does leave some residue behind. The most potent alcohol I've tried which does NOT leave any residue behind is denatured alcohol. I find it at Home Depot in the painting department. But warning -- it is so caustic that you MUST use gloves. As a solvent, it's the most potent alcohol-based cleaning liquid I've ever found.
you don't have to apply liquid metal to both the die and the cooler.... just one is enough
You can achieve the same result by just filing the surface of the heat extractor perfectly flat where it contacts the chip and using normal thermal paste.The heat will always move from the gpu to the extractor better if the two surfaces are completely flat and in good contact.
0:46 Its sticky.. I dont know why its sticky... To find out you may want to go through the browser history.. 😂
Sumeet Bais copied
Poor friend who bought a new laptop when this just needed cooling.. alienware in that nebula red is my drem pc (though in 17 or 18 inch). awesome video man enjoyed 100%
I had a m18xr1 in college and i loved it..............until it was stolen
who else ran into the comments after hearing him say sticky
A lot of good information but no one should be using a spudger to remove dried on thermal compound. The slightest flick would send the surface mount components on the chips flying. Arctic Silver makes a cleaning kit which softens it and can be removed cleanly, highly recommended to use that. When applying liquid metal you should surround the area with either clear tape or electrical tape. This is for two reasons. 1) It allows you to apply the liquid metal without the possibility of shorting anything out. 2) it allows you to remove it after it has been applied, if you wish. It won't hurt it either way. Applying conformal coating isn't necessarily bad but that's not a commonly accepted application.
I totally thought it was clickbait.
The main reason it was over-heating was the big chunk of dust ball you blew out of the heatsink.
2nd video I have seen of you failing to use liquid metal properly. That cpu should be in the mid 70s if it was cooling properly. you need to increase the clamping force if your not going to mill the surface flat on the heatsink. normal compound would preform better if done the way you just did. when i do this to a laptop i just bent the little legs up ever so slightly to increase the force on the die.
I am well aware of the fact that I am extremely late to the party here - but I still want to drop it:
I would recommend using the Buildzoid approved method of applying liquid metal: put the cotton pin you were going to spread it with into the tube, and press a little bit out while the pin is firmly plugged in.
It should then come out with a handy-dandy tot of metallic goo that's roughly enough to spread out over the surface of the die.
Easy, hard to fuck up, no accidents. Nice.
Problem is you did not use a nail hardener or electric tape for protection but it is still dangerous.
i used acrylic conformable coating, but yes there is risk but it was worth the experimentation on this old laptop.
Your minds blown because it's alien technology bro.
UPDATE: 3/11/2019, This video has done quite well and i thank you all for this. I have gotten many requests to do a follow up video where we take this laptop back apart and see if any damage has occurred to the die and or heat sink. Have no fear this video is coming, currently my wife uses this laptop as a daily driver because believe it or not it still runs pretty dang good as of today. my question to all of you is how much time would you like me to let pass before we open it back up, 4/12/2019 will be 6 months or should we wait longer. leave a reply down below.
I vote 6mo. If any damage is occuring, it's early enoungh to change it if needed. Great vid btw.
10:40 That "beeping that was going on' are Windows beep codes. It was literally attempting to tell you what was wrong with it. 5 short beeps followed by 5 short beeps was saying to pull out the ram and put it back in.
Wait longer. Go for a year, no one would put their PC apart just after 6 Months to check if there thermal compount is still intact. I removed my liquid metal cooled heatsink just after about 4 years and there was no damage whatsoever. But this stuff was hard to get rid of ;)
Gallium or mercury?
@@KJ7JHN gallium
Sitting at 90+ and then saying lets test overwatch is just silly. I know its for the video but damn thats just bringing the EOL closer.
56% of 8Gighertz Of Ram
43% : Its sticky
1% Random Crap
this comment is in the 1%
@@peterpanther8627 lol
Awesome vid man.... for all those who will be attempting this the first time..... remember if u disconnect the bios battery to the board, after you connect the power give it like 5 mins for the board to charge up before u press that start button or u will enter into panic mode like here.... lol!!!!
Thermal throtteling harder than a mac book 😏😆
I still have and use that laptop. I have also recently bought a m11xr3 that ill restore for some retro gaming on the go :)
Great video
My man, use Afterburner for the FPS counter. Fraps still uses a lot just to display the FPS, and with Afterburner you can get Temps/load % and more
First video of yours and subbed, love stuff like this can't wait for more
Thank You
dude, what are you thinking, your cooler has a copper base plate, liquid metal with copper can only be good for a month or 2
thats what i thought aswell, somebody gonna get some corrosion spell
Damn...that heatsink/fan setup is so underpowered to begin with. Really says a lot about Alienware quality
Should have stuck to gelid gc extreme or similar. Liquid metal(gallium) reacts with copper.
liquid metal is gallistan (gallium, tin and other secret components), will have minimal reaction with copper, as in aesthetical and not performance deteriorating.
It'll corrode copper at an accelerated rate. Whether or not the corrosion affects heat transfer is an open question but consensus seems to be minimal to no impact.
I subscribed just so I could propose theories as to why, “it’s sticky.”