How to Install a Glass Bed on a Monoprice MP Select Mini!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This modification comes highly recommended from many owners in the Monoprice MP Select Mini community. The addition of a glass bed is quite basic and at the same time one of the most useful mods you can do to improve your prints and improve upon ease of use!
All Hardware Used in This Video (Affiliate Links):
Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer: geni.us/sDiYUVo
Free & Clear Hairspray: geni.us/CKDO8
Picture Frame: geni.us/Bzx2AcB
Binder Clips: geni.us/JApF
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haha i did the same thing on mine, and shattered it. Popped off a print when I was tired and dropped the glass onto my tile RIP
DANIEL WHY
I use a removable z-axis spacer and the purple washable Elmer's gluestick- overall an amazing and recommended mod.
The clips can be fitted with a better margin if the top "lever" is removed: simply apply some pressure at the base where they meet the clip and slide one leg out. To replace do it in reverse. This little trick will also allow you to put the rear clips on the side, so if you're using a glass pane that is too long but close enough in width no cutting will be required.
I went through a bunch of picture frames, ended up shattering every one of them. Now I use a piece of Pyrex glass and it works perfectly.
Thank you. it's working great till now, I'm now doing my first glass build.. and it seems it sticks very well and no warping so far
Great explanation. A lot less daunting than another video I watched (ok, skimmed) that was 50 minutes.
You should really print out a z axis spacer for the bed so you don't have to make your bed super low. Also I would highly recommend that you put the hair spray on the glass away from the printer so that way you don't gum up the inside of the printer.
Hi I have one these printers and the original bed cover wire off. The glue on the bed is difficult to remove, any ideas?
Is the glass ok at the same size if the plate it did you use that size for convenience?
I also get a rattling noise as the head wanders off the bed. Any ideas on that?
Thank you
I haven't owned one of these in 6+ years so I wouldn't a proper resource to ask.
You should use borosilicate glass. It is FLAT and made for this purpose. Not just some junk that will shatter with the heat and injure you.
you can pinch the clip handles and remove them once the actual clamp is in place.
did you add a spacer? or when you put the glass on and move it to the home axis it sorts itself out?
Excellent video..
Can I put the glass on top on the bed that it came with cause dont know how to take it out
Is your bedplate bent? have found my bed to be bowed upward from front to back. Not sure if it was when I first got it. It's my first printer and I have been learning much. Thanks for the video
I got the same problem.. going to try this and see if it helps with getting it level.. it's like fucking alchemy now.. one print works, next two fail.. blah..
I went through half a roll of ABS without much issue and now all of the sudden I went to level and noticed I'm bowing significantly in the middle (right along where the nozzle rides when she's centered). Boggles my mind and is really pissing me off... She's level in the corners, but raised in the middle. I basically lost the center of my build platform...
I've gotten accustomed to leveling more for the center of the bed. I adjust for a happy medium. Eventually you get the feel for the correct extruder spacing and just know that the rest of the bed may need a brim or raft if the print is large enough.
deathsythe212 the reason for this is the aluminum plate...it warps. I dont use much more than 45c for heating the bed.
You can can make the glass bed yourself your time is worthless and you have a blood bank nearby (I always cut myself if I even get near glass), or for $20 you can order the following from Amazon: "130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for 3D Print." It even has the corners cut off to expose the leveling screws.
Another thing you might consider is "CPU Thermal Silicone Pad Heatsink Cooling Conductive 205mmx205mmx2mm," for $15 which I have on order. It sounds a little bit like snake oil to me, but allegedly is tacky enough to allow the glass be easily removed and replaced, removing the need for those tacky binder clips.
What is that black rubbery layer in the metal bed? Should that be removed? (See, I don't know everything!)
The fact that you said a dislike is fine too earns you a sub and a thumbs up
👍🏻
Based
I did this to my printer and I'm so glad I did. TY !!!
Just did this and it works like a charm! Only issue is it takes forever to level and if your clips are big they can bump into the hot end.
Anyone know the actual size of the tape that comes on it? I ordered some at the actual build dimension and it was too small. (4.7)
12cm x12cm
a silicon pad works great put between the bed an the glass wont move. no clips needed. also you didnt mention the 3d printed adjustment piece so that you wont hav to adjust the bed up that much higher. it slips on the back to stop the nozzle from going to far down via the stop button.
I heard some things about people printing spacers is that needed I am thinking out doing this on my MP select mini V2
I have the same question.
Frame glass is not tempered, if this glass is used and not completely and evenly heated, it will warp due to cold and hot spots in different parts of the glass. Your frame glass will last longer if you don't use the heated bed
Does the free and clear styling gel work instead of the hairspray, or can I do it with just plain glass because the hairspray is way out of my budget
I've done this a while ago and before I seen this video.
Not sure why you say don't put the binder clips on the side. Mine are on the side and works just fine. I suppose you could run into some trouble if you are using the entire bed size, but for me, that is rare.
valveman12 I used my dremel and a diamond hole cutting bit with oil so I can just screw the plate down.
There has to be a better way than this.
awesome tip
You can actually get a piece of glass custom cut to size locally in most places, for rather cheap especially at those sizes. You can even get the screw holes cut into it. I doubt this picture frame glass is heat treated, which means it wouldn't be great for heated bed. I mean it might work, but eventually you might crack it or it could shatter suddenly, which wouldn't be good for your eyes if a piece is ejected into it.
How hot does a piece of glass have to get for this to happen? The printer bed only goes up to 60c
I ordered a piece of amazon for pretty cheap. Made specifically for this printer, even has corners cut for the screws and leveling
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I want a 3D Printer how much is this setup?
MSRP for this is $200
cool video
PLEASE HELP fam
1. my printer starts oozing filament as soon as it starts the print, like before its on the bed, so it makes it hard to stick.
2. my printing bed is warped, will a glass sheet like this be unable to warp, hence fixing my problem?
3. how do you get your prints so nice, slow and smooth. my printer seems to always wanna rush and keeps getting messed up either by not sticking to the bed or well by not sticking to the bed.... probably my biggest problem right now haha. must be because of the warpedness. sorry for rambling really tired, and frustrated... please help if u can. u seem to know ur shit man.
Or, you can cut the glass to fit.
Or you can cut the glass to fit!
@@MrMario2011 Or, you can cut the glass to fit!
what happens if you just try to print on the metal?
it works fine with pla if you set the bed to 60C but for abs anything bigger than half an inch wont stick with out adhesive bc the board flexes as it cools to 60C from the 235C extruder
It's a $200 printer. You are getting a lot for that money. This is like a $10 mod.
Christopher Lambe $10 if you don’t have an old picture frame or a wife with some hairspray.
But can it run crysis
Why I do this
why you do dis
MrMario2011 that print was coming out perfect how do you get it to come.out so clean. did you do any upgrades or do you mind sharing your numbers you use or technique I usually get banding or stringing