My hat’s off to you!! In many many videos, and I have watched quite a few, you are the only one who mentions “so that you are not measuring diagonally across the board” I like your method of measuring on the bottom edge of the rafter. This is more accurate. Thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome! The thing that always confused me was how cutting a birds mouth doesn't change the pitch, but if you measure the short point then it works. Love your videos guys.
I have drove myself mad before with these. I too layout from the bottom of rafter because I can compensate for the drop caused by the birds mouth. But just like you showed, you have to align the bottom of the rafter to the bottom of the ridge...resulting in rafters that are slightly higher than the ridge board. I had no idea anyone else in the world did these like this. Lol. Great video
Quick, simple, and yet super informative. Measuring to the bottom of where you want your rafter to butt into the ridge let's you easily deal with an already fixed height ridge. Been looking for that information all week. Thanks.
As a beginner, the problem I see with picking where you want the lower edge of the rafter to butt against the ridge beam is this: When you figure out your angle of the rafter and make the cut, the top edge of the rafter may not end up flush with the top edge of the of the ridge beam, which is where I would like it to sit. It may end up a little high or a little low in relation to the top of the ridge beam. This due to the end cut angle of the rafter which changes depending on he angle it's cut at. Hope that makes some sense.
Michael Woods, I see exactly what your talking about. I'd guess u could use a method of, If your Ridge is 2x8", your Rafters are 2×6", measure down from top of your Ridge 5.5" and that be your short point, then physically measure from that edge of the Ridge to the inside of your Plate for the Birds Mouth??? That's also where he got me using the math to figure The length of your Rafters. Per Say, is the length of your rafter from Short Point to Short Point your Heel Cut? Then allow what ever length from the Exterior Wall for your Overhang??
Your video is probably the best and easiest to show how to do it without all the theories in between each move... Watched the toolbelt pro and almost fell asleep, couldn't take it any longer, left him half way through video, hard to believe I even made it that far! Thanks Perkins
Man dude you have no idea how much help you’re providing for people who are stuck in other areas of life and how this is going to help me get out of a hole
You know what I like about your videos, you dont act like a know it all king of kings carpenter, even when you clearly are very skilled. So many other guys on here are so pretentious and make it intimidating for others to learn. I've worked construction my whole life and definitely dont know everything and would never claim too. I enjoy watching how others work and sometimes pickup little tips and tricks others have learned over time or relearn things I've simply forgotten over time. Great video.
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers I just watched your video on the wall walkers have you ever tried the wall jacks. We use them all the time. Saves tons of time and alot safer. We build alot of 40+ 2x6 walls and stand them complet
This is the best thing ever as long as your building specifically a 12/12 pitch roof. That “it’s just 45, mark mark mark”. Well…. Everything that ISNT a 12/12, isn’t 45. Love the videos !!! This one just left me cutting the ridge angle, placing it up there ( 12ft off the floor to a 10ft wall ), marking it from the wall, getting it down and cutting it like a cave man. Came out good. But I watched this like 13 times before I gave up and cut my 2x6x12 (7) times before throwing it away lol
Always learning something from your videos ! * I would have mentioned that (if possible) use your finished rafter as a template, and save some layout time.
Very Proud of YALL‼️ Your Father taught You Both Well and It is in Your Blood Now‼️ Hand digging a Foundation only takes 1 shovel at a time‼️⛰✨🙏🔨⛏🧱💵⚒🛠📐📏🔐 “Measure Twice~Cut Once”
Interesting info. Never learned that way down here in Texas. Been cutting rafters for 20 years and we always measure diagonal from top of ridge to the bird mouth. But we pretty much only build craftsman style here. Always wanted to go up to Wyoming and Colorado to learn there timber framing style
Awesome job as usual. Like having one foot in the door. Going to build a porch roof for the front porch in the house we just bought as soon as I can afford it. Thanks guys you do awesome videos.
I am a master carpenter and that was a decent explanation for those who are learning . I happen to get complex .Perhaps too complex for videos to be made . . I measure span then subtract the thickness of ridge .. In this case I see 4 LVL's which should be 1.75" x 4 which equals 7" .. but in the real world isn't .. more like 7.25" -7.375" .. So I'd measure the ganged up thickness .. by either through memory or stacking 4 scraps of LVL and measuring ..Then deduct it from the span , Divide by 2 and multiply by the square root of 2 to find the rafter length "Laughter Rength " to HPCL " Heel Plumb Cut Line " . Then measure the absolute thickness of the 2 x 12 and multiply Square root of 2 and find the heel height for a full bearing 5.5" plate . Now for the story pole support .. I'd add the run of the rafter in this situation and heel height then subtract the height " perhaps 16" of the ridge and the amount of breathable clearance .. That gives me the support height .. The chunk out for the sheathing @6" is alright but I make sure on each rafter I transfer unto each the HPCL .. That where the rafter lines up to . not the sheathing . . On lower pitches and smaller dimension lumber " 2x8 . after laying out the HPCL .. Taking that extra 1/2 " in run out of the birds mouth can be crucial in the weakness of a rafter and can fall beneath Code for allowable notching of a rafter .. My remedy is to establish the full bearing and where the rafter notch forms a right angle . Pivot the vertical cut line and make it an obtuse angled birds mouth with a mark for the HPCL . . I call it " Sheathing Avoidance " .. On more complex bastard roofs . I draft a picture of a 1/4 pyramid with each pitch .. I do the math and and write the numbers on each relative to the next .. .. With that I can always see what I can relate one calculation into the next for . hips , common length differences , jack angles , sheathing angles . angles of pitch tangents and cosines .. I call it The Rosetta Stone .. It helps in watching the math move
I like using the framing square. Way easier. Just get the rise and run and off you go with the framing square. The same as laying out a stair stringer. But if you don't know the formula this is good too.
@@willielozosky4993 they have there own place but pole barns are not as complex as houses . I like how essential craftsman is doing whole house builds step by step 😎
Great video.. right to the point and no wasted wordage. Maybe you can help me, I have a 1/12 pitched porch awning and having trouble with the seat cut. Most people only have videos with a nice square notch like a 12/12 or 6 or 8/12 but when you get to 1/12 the notch becomes very long and ugly..how would you cut a 1/12. I cant find any instructional info online. Thanks!
Easy enough! Yeah, I bet you hear that a lot. LOL As a drywall finisher, I’m not outside much, but that’s alright. I don’t do well in the sunlight. I’m working on a job now where we’re expected to know several trades. I’ll let them know they’d be better off letting me be the grunt. Thanks, you’ve made it a little more comfortable, to fake it, until I make it.
Thanks for all the awesome videos. .....Perkins builder brothers you guys do such outstanding work and thanks for all the great tips........aloha from Hawaii
This video is informative, but it seemed a little silly with a 12 in 12. I've never made a video while framing a roof, so don't take my criticism too serious. By the way, today I am framing a 5 in 12 porch roof against a very bowed (like an inch and a half!) wall. THAT is something I could use a video for.
I'm also a carpenter for 40 yrs I can cut a set of rafters from home if I know the span and the pitch with a raftet square ...just step the square and by the way lay it out from the top of the rafter otherwise you're going to have different beam heights due to different board widths
Could you help clarify? Using your 'string method' to calculate pitch assumes the BOTTOM of the upper plumb cut sits flush with BOTTOM of ridge board. Unless you plan on having upper edge of rafter sit proud of the ridge board (as you clearly show in your example for improving ventilation), the bottom edges of rafter and ridge board are NOT flush. Assuming both ridge board and rafter are same (e.g., 2x8s), the rafter will hang slightly below the ridge board since the plumb cut is angled. Do you have another technique calculating pitch (and hence distance to birdsmouth cut) for when the rafter and ridge board tops must be flush?
All the young carpenter's like this type of framing square I'm old school and used the Stanley square with it you just need the span from out side edge of wall plate to out side edge, you can cut the whole roof including hips ,it's well worth learning the application of this tool in my opinion it's the best.
Love your video. Having trouble cutting 2x8 rafters that have to match up to 2x4 trusses that are on now. I'm doind an addition and the process to match these is confusing and I am not getting it. Can you send me detailed instructions?
A tip for faster math is to calculate your rafter factor (RF) at the beginning of the job (for a 12/12 it happens to be 1.4142). Then you only need your horizontal measurement ( 'a' in your Pythagoras calculation) and multiply it by 12/12 RF to get your rafter length. It speeds things up when you have more than one rafter length to calculate.
@@markleeks1116 If you are calculating the rafter length of a 12/12 slope and you know the horizontal measurement, you can simply multiply that measurement by 1.4142 to get the rafter length.
If you know how to read a framing square (not a speed square but actual framing square) you don't have to do math or try to get a measurement,this guy does a good job however and explained rather well a good simple way of cutting a rafter
So much easier with a framing square and use the step method Been doing it for almost 50 years and all the you need is outside to outside plate measurement and divide it in half....done
Don’t forget half the thickness of ridge , and any carpenter should be able to lay out a common rafter it takes some skill to lay out for a bastard hip roof or figure out the valley jack cripple rafters
Seems a little complicated, there is an easy way to prefigure long to long cuts. Your run is 12" for commons, you multiply 12x12 to get 144", you take your rise (we will say 4 in 12 for this), multiply 4x4 to get 16, add 16 to 144 to get 160", find the square root of 160" and you get 12.65" of rafter per foot of outside wall to ridge. 10' of run and you have a rafter that's 126 1/2" long minus half of your ridge thickness. Make your plumb cut and measure straight down the top of the rafter and mark your length, then mark plumb to your birds mouth. Sounds a little complicated, but once you do it, it's very simple and will be perfect every time.
Max Powers that’s the way we do it on my crew in bama, but for a new guy it takes him a good little minute for the sequence and the equations to click and make sense but once it does it’s there forever
Spot on! ive always calculated from the long point like that to the birds mouth and eve overhang, and then i use a pattern rafter to mark out the rest of the commons, you can also use the factor to calculate your shortening for creepers easily using pythag its how we got taught at trades school and i think is the superior way of cutting in. it was interesting to see a different way but i think calculating it like this in the video would leave room for error.
You give great tips and knowledge ... could you please explain the idioticy of what a piece of lumber is called 2x4x8 compared to what it really is and "why"? Tanks
When you measure your short points- From the plum cut to the wall plate was that number in the build plans ? From when you tacked that finish nail in to measure to the wall plate where did that number come from?
You probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Eduardo Roy Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I was also wondering why he used that particular pitch. I am trying to learn how to cut the proper angles, I also don't know how to cut a bird mouth. I am obviously not a carpenter; however, I like to do some projects myself. This knowledge would be helpful.
Calculators....construction master pro or buildcalc for smartphone. How about a vid showing how you set ridge height in this one. Great clear explanation.
And... I don’t use a lot of tech to build (like the apps you mentioned). They are great, but I learned to build in the 90’s from my Dad... we only had string lines and pencils!! Times Have changed
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers agree with your comment about string lines. Very accurate. Gives a clear visual representation for everyone. My opinion under utilised/understood. Don't need batteries.😊 That said I use both but wouldn't give up my construction master. Keep the vids coming.
Hi , as a carpenter of 40 years , I did a 5year apprentiship in which we are taught how to perform carpentry tasks . ? Do you not have any such trading in usa? You mention Pythagoras ? He knew 3, 000 years ago how to attain the length ? We are all in ore of his knowledge .
That was some really good tips I personally like to go pick out the lumber myself if it's not a big delivery just because I check 4 the crown how Strait the board is I hate when you send some guys they come back with hockey sticks but also when I measure something say 8 feet take the pencil put a line Reddit 8 feet and I hook off tell it right or left and that's the piece I don't need little simple things like that can make a Job Corps so much more easier. Some guys like to baked at Mark and then put an x on a piece they don't want that just takes more time so I just like to take my little pencil Malk and then, about an inch off the line and grab my speed square paint the line and just like you said you know which side to cut on. But that's what makes a good crew a better crew knowing how each guy works
Uh, yea....got it.....The one and ONLY time I put up rafters, I held it up on the outside of the ridge beam and the top plate on the wall and just traced it out. I just called someone after that. Good job guys.
Regarding the way to quickly determine the slope of your roof... Lets say you're using an 11 7/8" LVL for your ridge and are using 2x10 rafters. You wouldn't know where the bottom of the rafter would land on the ridge... What would you do then? I'm building an addition and its more as-built so I don't have a roof pitch determined. I know it will be somewhere in the ballpark of 2&1/4. I'll need to determine the pitch once I place my LVL ridge and stand my bearing wall. I'm having trouble with doing the math because of the birdsmouth. I obviously want full bearing on the 2x6 wall with the birdsmouth or as much as I can considering code (the birdsmouth cant be cut more than 1/4 the width of the 2x10) Thoughts?
To find out what your roof pitch is measure from the ground to the bottom of roof edge, then from ground to center of roof. Then divide the difference in height by half the length of the wall on that side. Then you have the rise by foot a.k.a roof pitch.
Great video. I see in this case you wanted the rafters higher than ridge beam for vents, but what if you want it to meet up with top of beam perfectly? im struggling to get the top of my rafters to meet right up to the top edge of ledger board in my case... All my angles are always spot on and seat cut sits nice and flat on plate but my rafters end up too high. I think im mis calculating something with the Seat cut and it needs to be shallower
Are you subtracting the thickness of half the ridge from your rafter span? i.e. an 1 1/2 thick ridge beam would require you to lose 3/4 of an inch (half it's thickness) from the span measurement. That is outside of exterior wall to dead center of the house. Hope that helps.
![How To Make Common Rafters [Measure, Mark & Cut]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kVM7gPJN3UU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[UNCUT]“ฅนตื่นธรรม”ปะทะ“หมอปลา-ปู่มหามุนี-อั๋นโอกิ”สะเทือนกระทรวงเวทมนตร์ Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I10 ตค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/peMD_SAkwNc/mqdefault.jpg)
Best explanation on the internet for this. Really. Short and sweet and to the point.
These dudes are killin it. Came out of nowhere. Seriously the best building channel on TH-cam !
Awesome job, been a carpenter for 16 yrs& never got to learn to cut Rafters, great expectation! Thankyou
My hat’s off to you!! In many many videos, and I have watched quite a few, you are the only one who mentions “so that you are not measuring diagonally across the board”
I like your method of measuring on the bottom edge of the rafter. This is more accurate.
Thank you 🙏🏼
It's always nice to be able to refresh your memory if you're not a building professional like myself. Thanks!
Awesome! The thing that always confused me was how cutting a birds mouth doesn't change the pitch, but if you measure the short point then it works. Love your videos guys.
You guys are my favorite channel for construction. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I have drove myself mad before with these. I too layout from the bottom of rafter because I can compensate for the drop caused by the birds mouth. But just like you showed, you have to align the bottom of the rafter to the bottom of the ridge...resulting in rafters that are slightly higher than the ridge board. I had no idea anyone else in the world did these like this. Lol. Great video
Quick, simple, and yet super informative. Measuring to the bottom of where you want your rafter to butt into the ridge let's you easily deal with an already fixed height ridge. Been looking for that information all week. Thanks.
As a beginner, the problem I see with picking where you want the lower edge of the rafter to butt against the ridge beam is this: When you figure out your angle of the rafter and make the cut, the top edge of the rafter may not end up flush with the top edge of the of the ridge beam, which is where I would like it to sit. It may end up a little high or a little low in relation to the top of the ridge beam. This due to the end cut angle of the rafter which changes depending on he angle it's cut at. Hope that makes some sense.
I seen some big ridges to match bottom just watching videos tho
I seen some big ridges to match bottom just watching videos tho
Michael Woods, I see exactly what your talking about.
I'd guess u could use a method of,
If your Ridge is 2x8", your Rafters are 2×6", measure down from top of your Ridge 5.5" and that be your short point, then physically measure from that edge of the Ridge to the inside of your Plate for the Birds Mouth???
That's also where he got me using the math to figure The length of your Rafters.
Per Say, is the length of your rafter from Short Point to Short Point your Heel Cut? Then allow what ever length from the Exterior Wall for your Overhang??
Your video is probably the best and easiest to show how to do it without all the theories in between each move...
Watched the toolbelt pro and almost fell asleep, couldn't take it any longer, left him half way through video, hard to believe I even made it that far!
Thanks Perkins
Man dude you have no idea how much help you’re providing for people who are stuck in other areas of life and how this is going to help me get out of a hole
Thanks 🙏
You know what I like about your videos, you dont act like a know it all king of kings carpenter, even when you clearly are very skilled. So many other guys on here are so pretentious and make it intimidating for others to learn.
I've worked construction my whole life and definitely dont know everything and would never claim too. I enjoy watching how others work and sometimes pickup little tips and tricks others have learned over time or relearn things I've simply forgotten over time.
Great video.
Thanks brother! Much appreciated... I’m still learning new thinks every day too. 🤜🤛
Man I'm about to build me a little shop on the back of my house and watching your videos i learn a lot of tricks, thanks man
Thank you for all of your great videos. I am a new builder and learning more and more as I go! These are helpful refreshers if not learning tools.
Simple easy, Enjoyed watching ,Now to framing the rafters on my cabin.
Very helpful and well explained. Good info to have for those who dont do rafter cuts all that often. Thanks for posting.
It's great to see guys still hand framing roofs everything is truss here buy us even valleys.
Thanks... fun to build for sure
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers I just watched your video on the wall walkers have you ever tried the wall jacks. We use them all the time. Saves tons of time and alot safer. We build alot of 40+ 2x6 walls and stand them complet
This is the best thing ever as long as your building specifically a 12/12 pitch roof. That “it’s just 45, mark mark mark”. Well…. Everything that ISNT a 12/12, isn’t 45. Love the videos !!! This one just left me cutting the ridge angle, placing it up there ( 12ft off the floor to a 10ft wall ), marking it from the wall, getting it down and cutting it like a cave man. Came out good. But I watched this like 13 times before I gave up and cut my 2x6x12 (7) times before throwing it away lol
Always learning something from your videos !
* I would have mentioned that (if possible) use your finished rafter as a template, and save some layout time.
Very Proud of YALL‼️ Your Father taught You Both Well and It is in Your Blood Now‼️
Hand digging a Foundation only takes 1 shovel at a time‼️⛰✨🙏🔨⛏🧱💵⚒🛠📐📏🔐
“Measure Twice~Cut Once”
Interesting info. Never learned that way down here in Texas. Been cutting rafters for 20 years and we always measure diagonal from top of ridge to the bird mouth. But we pretty much only build craftsman style here. Always wanted to go up to Wyoming and Colorado to learn there timber framing style
Awesome job as usual. Like having one foot in the door. Going to build a porch roof for the front porch in the house we just bought as soon as I can afford it. Thanks guys you do awesome videos.
Hey How did you make out with porch roof build. I’m contemplating a garage build.
I am a master carpenter and that was a decent explanation for those who are learning . I happen to get complex .Perhaps too complex for videos to be made . . I measure span then subtract the thickness of ridge .. In this case I see 4 LVL's which should be 1.75" x 4 which equals 7" .. but in the real world isn't .. more like 7.25" -7.375" .. So I'd measure the ganged up thickness .. by either through memory or stacking 4 scraps of LVL and measuring ..Then deduct it from the span , Divide by 2 and multiply by the square root of 2 to find the rafter length "Laughter Rength " to HPCL " Heel Plumb Cut Line " . Then measure the absolute thickness of the 2 x 12 and multiply Square root of 2 and find the heel height for a full bearing 5.5" plate . Now for the story pole support .. I'd add the run of the rafter in this situation and heel height then subtract the height " perhaps 16" of the ridge and the amount of breathable clearance .. That gives me the support height .. The chunk out for the sheathing @6" is alright but I make sure on each rafter I transfer unto each the HPCL .. That where the rafter lines up to . not the sheathing . . On lower pitches and smaller dimension lumber " 2x8 . after laying out the HPCL .. Taking that extra 1/2 " in run out of the birds mouth can be crucial in the weakness of a rafter and can fall beneath Code for allowable notching of a rafter .. My remedy is to establish the full bearing and where the rafter notch forms a right angle . Pivot the vertical cut line and make it an obtuse angled birds mouth with a mark for the HPCL . . I call it " Sheathing Avoidance " .. On more complex bastard roofs . I draft a picture of a 1/4 pyramid with each pitch .. I do the math and and write the numbers on each relative to the next .. .. With that I can always see what I can relate one calculation into the next for . hips , common length differences , jack angles , sheathing angles . angles of pitch tangents and cosines .. I call it The Rosetta Stone .. It helps in watching the math move
IVORY123100 ok
thanks alot for the tips guys be safe and careful keep rolling on
I like using the framing square. Way easier. Just get the rise and run and off you go with the framing square. The same as laying out a stair stringer. But if you don't know the formula this is good too.
Awesome video very helpful answers a lot of questions
I really appreciate the video - it helped me a ton.
Good video ...you would be a good boss because the way you explain all details without getting frustrated .cheers 🔨
Keep up the good work
Before you know it you’ll be blowing R&R videos away
@@willielozosky4993 they have there own place but pole barns are not as complex as houses . I like how essential craftsman is doing whole house builds step by step 😎
Probably the easiest and best explanation ive seen yet!!
MR. PERKINS is a good teacher, thankyou.
Great video.. right to the point and no wasted wordage. Maybe you can help me, I have a 1/12 pitched porch awning and having trouble with the seat cut. Most people only have videos with a nice square notch like a 12/12 or 6 or 8/12 but when you get to 1/12 the notch becomes very long and ugly..how would you cut a 1/12. I cant find any instructional info online. Thanks!
Easy enough! Yeah, I bet you hear that a lot. LOL As a drywall finisher, I’m not outside much, but that’s alright. I don’t do well in the sunlight. I’m working on a job now where we’re expected to know several trades. I’ll let them know they’d be better off letting me be the grunt. Thanks, you’ve made it a little more comfortable, to fake it, until I make it.
Thanks for all the awesome videos. .....Perkins builder brothers you guys do such outstanding work and thanks for all the great tips........aloha from Hawaii
Good info, good presentation. Thanks
less than a minute into the video and you just saved a significant amount of headache lol.. STRING lol
You lads need to have your own TV show on cable. Good stuff.
Internet is more lucrative.
Keep making videos. This explanation is better than my teacher
Hey Eric, excellent video.
I could have used this video two weeks ago. 👍🏻👍🏻. Great job explaining.
This video is informative, but it seemed a little silly with a 12 in 12. I've never made a video while framing a roof, so don't take my criticism too serious. By the way, today I am framing a 5 in 12 porch roof against a very bowed (like an inch and a half!) wall. THAT is something I could use a video for.
I love this video do you have one that shows the rafters above the main beam so I don't have to cut roof plywood for ridge vent
This is exactly what the people want to see when searching this up every other video is bogus thanks
excellent video!
You make it look very easy!
This video blew my mind. I need to watch it again!
I'm also a carpenter for 40 yrs I can cut a set of rafters from home if I know the span and the pitch with a raftet square ...just step the square and by the way lay it out from the top of the rafter otherwise you're going to have different beam heights due to different board widths
Truth
You explain it perfectly
Great explanation. Thank you
Could you help clarify? Using your 'string method' to calculate pitch assumes the BOTTOM of the upper plumb cut sits flush with BOTTOM of ridge board. Unless you plan on having upper edge of rafter sit proud of the ridge board (as you clearly show in your example for improving ventilation), the bottom edges of rafter and ridge board are NOT flush. Assuming both ridge board and rafter are same (e.g., 2x8s), the rafter will hang slightly below the ridge board since the plumb cut is angled. Do you have another technique calculating pitch (and hence distance to birdsmouth cut) for when the rafter and ridge board tops must be flush?
All the young carpenter's like this type of framing square I'm old school and used the Stanley square with it you just need the span from out side edge of wall plate to out side edge, you can cut the whole roof including hips ,it's well worth learning the application of this tool in my opinion it's the best.
Love your video. Having trouble cutting 2x8 rafters that have to match up to 2x4 trusses that are on now. I'm doind an addition and the process to match these is confusing and I am not getting it. Can you send me detailed instructions?
Tank you for all the information
I’d love to see a video of how you find the center line of the ridge before you have to install the rafters
Half of your run
@@dakotarodick6170 I meant a video of them installing the ridge in the air once the walls are up
Thanks to share your knowledge. Regards
A tip for faster math is to calculate your rafter factor (RF) at the beginning of the job (for a 12/12 it happens to be 1.4142). Then you only need your horizontal measurement ( 'a' in your Pythagoras calculation) and multiply it by 12/12 RF to get your rafter length. It speeds things up when you have more than one rafter length to calculate.
Not sure where 1.4142 fits in.
12/12 = 1
INV ARC (tangent) 1. = 45°
@@markleeks1116 If you are calculating the rafter length of a 12/12 slope and you know the horizontal measurement, you can simply multiply that measurement by 1.4142 to get the rafter length.
@@markleeks1116 lol run and rise is 1, hypotenuse is 1.4142….You tried to sound smart but failed lol.
@@henra2244 really, l think l know what l m talking about
@@markleeks1116 then why weren’t you sure where 1.4142 fits in?
thanks for the info on the span cal, good stuff keep up the great work guys.
Dude, you just offered an excellent explanation on rafter cutting.
Very helpful thank you!
Never seen anyone layout rafters from the inside out like that. Seems to work well tho . 4 LVL ridge beam, that's a monster.
yup that is stronger and lighter then steel lol
@@SharkButtholio stronger than steel?
@@calebbo1by weight not overall
great vid amigo
Thank you so much Sir!
From Philippines🔨💪💯😇
You are a great teacher! 👍
If you know how to read a framing square (not a speed square but actual framing square) you don't have to do math or try to get a measurement,this guy does a good job however and explained rather well a good simple way of cutting a rafter
This is the first video I've seen that says how to get the birds mouth right.
Got it ! watched Paul ricalde- I’m just a beginner dyer
Great vid dude. Awesome
Nice job
I like the ease way using the line from the inside wall thanks bro
Gracias por subir el video amigo quiero aprender aser este trabajo gracias por su consejo amigo ánimo en tu trabajo
So much easier with a framing square and use the step method
Been doing it for almost 50 years
and all the you need is outside to outside plate measurement and divide it in half....done
Haha ain't that the truth!
Yeah, been doing it 35 years, lost skill
Almost done... you have to subtract half the width of your ridge or they'll be too long
Don’t forget half the thickness of ridge , and any carpenter should be able to lay out a common rafter it takes some skill to lay out for a bastard hip roof or figure out the valley jack cripple rafters
Seems a little complicated, there is an easy way to prefigure long to long cuts.
Your run is 12" for commons, you multiply 12x12 to get 144", you take your rise (we will say 4 in 12 for this), multiply 4x4 to get 16, add 16 to 144 to get 160", find the square root of 160" and you get 12.65" of rafter per foot of outside wall to ridge.
10' of run and you have a rafter that's 126 1/2" long minus half of your ridge thickness.
Make your plumb cut and measure straight down the top of the rafter and mark your length, then mark plumb to your birds mouth.
Sounds a little complicated, but once you do it, it's very simple and will be perfect every time.
Max Powers that’s the way we do it on my crew in bama, but for a new guy it takes him a good little minute for the sequence and the equations to click and make sense but once it does it’s there forever
@@lotus_8773 Yeah, mentioned it cause these guys appear to be seasoned but figure rafters in an amateurish way.
Spot on! ive always calculated from the long point like that to the birds mouth and eve overhang, and then i use a pattern rafter to mark out the rest of the commons, you can also use the factor to calculate your shortening for creepers easily using pythag its how we got taught at trades school and i think is the superior way of cutting in. it was interesting to see a different way but i think calculating it like this in the video would leave room for error.
Love that cincy shirt
You give great tips and knowledge ... could you please explain the idioticy of what a piece of lumber is called 2x4x8 compared to what it really is and "why"?
Tanks
Do y’all have any instructional videos on hip and valley rafters for lengths and cuts? Really enjoy yalls channel keep up the good work!
When you measure your short points- From the plum cut to the wall plate was that number in the build plans ? From when you tacked that finish nail in to measure to the wall plate where did that number come from?
You probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Flynn Andres instablaster ;)
@Eduardo Roy Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Eduardo Roy It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Flynn Andres No problem xD
The way you cut your birds mouth only works for a 12/12, you should've used a different pitch if you're trying to teach people
Jack Tauser that’s why my 8-12 isn’t working with this method 😂🤔
He still taught but I here ya I would take a minute get this straight in my head.
Yes, now i got to the end and don't know how to measure the heel cut LOL
Took me a lot of wasted time to realize this
I was also wondering why he used that particular pitch. I am trying to learn how to cut the proper angles, I also don't know how to cut a bird mouth. I am obviously not a carpenter; however, I like to do some projects myself. This knowledge would be helpful.
Great informative video. I'm an electrician and even I'd hire a pro to do my building!
id hope so, you're an electrician
Makes no sense
How long was the board for the 12/12 slope?
Great tips - the 18v Milwaukee - did you go with the 7 1/4 or the 6 1/2" blade for these simple cuts?
I believe the 6 1/2" is the blade left model. I think the worm drive is the only 7 1/4 blade left model, at least in my neck of the woods :)
Calculators....construction master pro or buildcalc for smartphone. How about a vid showing how you set ridge height in this one. Great clear explanation.
Great idea thanks... figuring the ridge beam height is a very important step not covered in the video.
And... I don’t use a lot of tech to build (like the apps you mentioned). They are great, but I learned to build in the 90’s from my Dad... we only had string lines and pencils!! Times Have changed
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers agree with your comment about string lines. Very accurate. Gives a clear visual representation for everyone. My opinion under utilised/understood. Don't need batteries.😊 That said I use both but wouldn't give up my construction master. Keep the vids coming.
Hi , as a carpenter of 40 years , I did a 5year apprentiship in which we are taught how to perform carpentry tasks . ? Do you not have any such trading in usa? You mention Pythagoras ? He knew 3, 000 years ago how to attain the length ? We are all in ore of his knowledge .
That was some really good tips I personally like to go pick out the lumber myself if it's not a big delivery just because I check 4 the crown how Strait the board is I hate when you send some guys they come back with hockey sticks but also when I measure something say 8 feet take the pencil put a line Reddit 8 feet and I hook off tell it right or left and that's the piece I don't need little simple things like that can make a Job Corps so much more easier. Some guys like to baked at Mark and then put an x on a piece they don't want that just takes more time so I just like to take my little pencil Malk and then, about an inch off the line and grab my speed square paint the line and just like you said you know which side to cut on. But that's what makes a good crew a better crew knowing how each guy works
Uh, yea....got it.....The one and ONLY time I put up rafters, I held it up on the outside of the ridge beam and the top plate on the wall and just traced it out. I just called someone after that. Good job guys.
Regarding the way to quickly determine the slope of your roof... Lets say you're using an 11 7/8" LVL for your ridge and are using 2x10 rafters. You wouldn't know where the bottom of the rafter would land on the ridge... What would you do then?
I'm building an addition and its more as-built so I don't have a roof pitch determined. I know it will be somewhere in the ballpark of 2&1/4. I'll need to determine the pitch once I place my LVL ridge and stand my bearing wall. I'm having trouble with doing the math because of the birdsmouth. I obviously want full bearing on the 2x6 wall with the birdsmouth or as much as I can considering code (the birdsmouth cant be cut more than 1/4 the width of the 2x10)
Thoughts?
How long was the cut from the penny nail to the 🐦's 👄?
by code you can only take out 1/3 of the rafter width for a birds mouth
Whats the minimum if there is any?
A rafter without a tail is called a “mule." No joke, I learned that from watching Larry Haun.
we love larry 💜
To find out what your roof pitch is measure from the ground to the bottom of roof edge, then from ground to center of roof. Then divide the difference in height by half the length of the wall on that side. Then you have the rise by foot a.k.a roof pitch.
There are quite a few different ways to cut rafters,depending on the particular application,you should cover those as well.
Thank you
Do u have a video on how to set your ridge?
Why you didn't you show the rafter table for a 12/12 pitch?
Is it always 45* for the 2nd cut of the birds mouth?
How thick was that rafter board?
I am adding a shed roof over my porch. How do o measure for this Chang in slope
Pretty cool. I've never seen that bottom like that. Different
Great video. I see in this case you wanted the rafters higher than ridge beam for vents, but what if you want it to meet up with top of beam perfectly? im struggling to get the top of my rafters to meet right up to the top edge of ledger board in my case... All my angles are always spot on and seat cut sits nice and flat on plate but my rafters end up too high. I think im mis calculating something with the Seat cut and it needs to be shallower
Are you subtracting the thickness of half the ridge from your rafter span? i.e. an 1 1/2 thick ridge beam would require you to lose 3/4 of an inch (half it's thickness) from the span measurement. That is outside of exterior wall to dead center of the house. Hope that helps.
Never seen how you determined the actual length of the rafter to make that measurement or did I miss something?
good teacher
Is that the 6-1/2” circular saw? Can’t find a 7-1/4” without it being a worm drive.
So if the pitch was 7 12…… would you cut the long end of the bird mouth on that the 7 or at 45 still?
I almost forgot yall used house wrap as a vapor barrier a few years ago