@613Builds your clips were taped to the bottom of the inside of the piston! I just checked my kit and they were hiding really well! I hope you haven't sabotaged your engine!
I installed a PZ27 carb from Amazon It’s almost identical to the factory carb except for it’s not electronic. Yesterday I got a PZ30 with the same bolt pattern as the pz27 but I haven’t tried it yet. I haven’t messed with the jets or tuning yet because I might add a cam or performance cylinder head soon. Perhaps I misplaced the clips, but I was not able to find them anywhere, and if they were in the bottom of the piston, I would have noticed when I installed the wrist pin
Great step by step video, I ordered my big bore kit a couple months ago and this will help me install it. Let us know what your top speed ends up being. I welded a 02 bung on my exhaust and used a air fuel guage to tune it with an exhaust and can hit close to 70 here in California. With a 16 tooth front sprocket I can pop wheelies and accelerate more appropriately. I think with this kit and the right cam shaft and tune it will hit 75 no problem and my goal is 80mph but well see. Thanks again guys like you help out a ton with these niche projects
@@kriswthak9175 my top speed right now is only around 105 km/h . I still have the same gearing in the same red limiter so I wouldn’t expect that to change much until I address the gearing or the gear ratios. There’s another guy on TH-cam. “dusty steel” and he claims to beginning 80 mph with a smaller rear sprocket , big bore kit, and a bunch of performance mods. I do think it’s possible with the right gearing, which would be the opposite of the way you went with the 16 tooth smaller front sprocket. With a small displacement 5 speed You could have low end torque or top end speed but it’s hard to get both. Right now I have the factory sprockets, but I would like to go with the 18 tooth on the front or maybe a 46 on the back for more top speed. I plan on doing a cam swap or maybe a cylinder head with bigger valves sometime in the near future
@@613Buildsbro thank you so much for the shoutout!! With a 18t in the front and a 46 in the back I’m still topping out 5th gear at 88mph. If I had more gearing I could go even faster. I might try a few more things to get an even higher top speed.
You should have checked the valve settings while it was stripped down considering how mutch work is entailed in stripping it down just to be on the safe side
I mentioned in the video that the valve lash appeared to be spot on, almost perfect. This is a 2024 model and it barely had 600 miles on it when I did the big bore upgrade. All of the valvetrain is contained within the cylinder head. Overhead cam overhead valves. There are no pushrods going down There are no components related to the valvetrain below the head, aside from the timing chain, and setting timing is mandatory. I was planning on checking it, or setting it which is why I mentioned it, but it appeared to be spot on
Good quality video, very clear. I have the XR150, stock bore size with the PZ27 carb like yours here in the Philippines. A couple of suggestions, some of the video time you spent on comparing piston sizes would have been better spent on the steps not shown such as clearancing the new piston and the cam chain guides R&R. Also, I would have cleaned the engine before disassembly to reduce the risk of getting dirt in the engine. Overall, a clear, helpful video! Would love to see an update on fuel consumption, carb performance and if you had any issues later. Thanks!
@@telcobilly I only had to remove one timing chain guide if I remember correctly it was the front guide. It simply lifts out with your fingers if I remember correctly. Timing chain tensioner is spring loaded self adjusting so it’s just bolt-in. I only clearanced under the wrist pin a bit, I used my 4.5” angle grinder 🙈🙉🙊 and a file . You’re right, it needs a good cleaning . I have a few more xR150 videos planned, I just need free time to produce, edit, export, upload & edit 😅
@@613Builds Thanks for the quick reply. I'm curious to hear about your experience overall with BB kit. Are you sticking with the PZ27 or getting a Nibbi carb? Subbed your channel. 👍
@telcobilly overall like the extra torque from the big bore kit. I’ve upgraded to the PZ30 and removed the muffler baffle recently. Might do some port matching or performance cam later. I’ve ordered an 18 tooth front sprocket ⚙️
I haven't had a dualsport/Enduro I really want one for camping fishing is there a reason you got a 150 instead of a 250 or 300 cc Enduro I like the air-cooled almost got a sherpa years ago
Please let us know what carburetor you used . Was the clearance of the piston needed . And what was the top speed using the stock head . Thank you for your hard work and explanation. I have the same kit and the new SS exhaust arrived yesterday . My current mileage is 2500 miles and loving the XR150L .
@@philipcloutier2553 I used a pz27 carb for now off Amazon. I’m told the piston needs to be clearanced yes under the wrist pin I tried to match the thickness to stock piston. My top speed was around 95 kph on flat. I’m getting around 95-100 kph now but I still have mods and tuning to do
Thanks for your prompt reply . I hope that changes when it is broken-in , as I am consistently getting those speeds right now stock tucked down and no headwinds , with 4000 klms on the OD . I am just above sea-level . I have purchased the SSS big bore kit and have now received thier SS exhaust .
I’ve already bought a 18 twos front sprocket for overdrive or higher top speed but it doesn’t fit the output shaft so either I need to modify it to fit or get another sprocket because the gearing and red limiter really determines your top speed
I do like the bike & this upgrade is one I probably would want to do BUT something inside of me screams "NO No, don't do that to a new engine that's not broken!? That said, needing to go faster on highways would push me to do this. What about the material you trimmed off the lower part of the piston? I see how you determined where to trim to but in doing this is there a way to make sure it's still properly balanced? I know nothing about this so I am asking & I may be purchasing one of these so this is important to know. Thanks for the work ! peace
@@diggy-d8w yes, the balancing and compression are modified as soon as the factory 57 mm piston is removed, the clearances on the bottom of the piston by the wrist pin area is for clearance reasons to clearance the rotational assembly inside the crank case. It seems strong enough, and the Factory balancing has already been altered by removing the factory piston. Anyway, if anything helps some weight reduction, which might actually bring it closer to the Factory piston weight. I don’t think removing any material there for clearance would have any negative effects. For top speed, I will be installing an 18 Tooth Front Drive sprocket, and the big kit helps with low end torque, which helps provide the power to carry the vehicle with less effort Or at lower RPMs and higher gears. This should allow me to install the overdrive sprocket and achieve higher speeds, now that we have enough torque to counter and justify the overdrive gear
Ohh hey there, this little bike isn't exactly what I want but I'll tell that it's the only bike that I know I'll have the money to pay cash for. As for the mechanical part, I'm doing good to change my oil & the filters but as I saw you tackle this I had to ask those questions ; that way, if I did do this "223" upgrade I'll know I do not have to worry about these things you've showed us all. Thanks for that & I'll be checking out some of your other vids. peace
TY for responding to a prospective biker..... the "Balance" I was thinking of was the physical weight balance of that moving piston? I've never seen/heard of a mechanic taking off metal on an actual piston so I asked. Ohh, were you aware that you can change this bike by changing the ECU? It has one & I saw a forum that speaks about it as it pertains to this bike. That might mean that you can throw the CARB to the side & pick up one of those metered valves? They aren't Injection but aren't a carb either, there at least two companies that make them & it's said by using these there's no more issue w/ elevation or cold weather? If you weren't aware please look into it, it might be a game changer & also flashing the ecu will be great AFTER you've got the exhaust & other mods completed. I don't know if there's a Flash for the 223cc engine mod you just did but I bet there is? Let me know & I'll see ya here soon. peace
@@DustySteel Tem um site chamando JEFFERSON MOTOS fabrica kits até 240cc paramotores 150cc plug in play porém não vende os carburadores mas rexomendo um carburador de cbx 250 twister
@@H0GS16 That’s not how it works . The top end is the cylinder that is the bore that’s the size diameter of the piston. The crank is the bottom, and there is no bore in the crank. I’m not doing anything to the crankshaft in this video. The new cylinder is already boarded out to 70 mm for the new 70 mm piston.
@@H0GS16I’m thinking about boring out the crank case wall and maybe going bigger than 70mm. If I do that though I might also add a +4.2 crank since I think the crank would need to come out anyways to bore the crankcase where the cylinder slides into. I think I remember looking when I put the big bored cylinder in if there was any clearance around to go bigger and thought it was already a tight fit. I’m going to make a video soon showing that.
should get and install the stage 2 model is Performance Camshaft CRF150L CRF150F from sxparts $65 us dollars plus shipping . works grate on my xr with the big bore kit
I don't get it? The CRF230 motor is 223cc. The CRF230/150F frame allows peg adapters to place them backwards an inch. The CRF230/150F all aluminum swing arms. The XR150L Frame is identical to the CRF150F and CRF230F, without the option of foot peg relocation and I hear it comes without link suspension? *So why not drop a 6 speed CRF230 motor in the thing and call it a day?
@@shockadellick i’ve effectively converted this 2024 engine into a 222 cc. I would enjoy a six speed gearbox, but I’m not sure what that would cost or where to find one and presumably it would be a bigger and more expensive job. I’m pretty sure the CRF 230 is electronic fuel injection, so there are some differences there as well. Aside from the six speed transmission. The head is different and the fuel delivery is different, There are holes in the head for sensors in the CRF 230 and 150 I’m pretty sure. I like the idea of a 6-speed gearbox but I’m not sure where to find a 2024 or zero mile 230 engine or what it would cost or how much work would be involved in converting the fuel delivery. I’m sure I could make it work but it would be more expensive and more work for the same displacement 🤷🏽♂️
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching 🛠️😎👍
@613Builds your clips were taped to the bottom of the inside of the piston! I just checked my kit and they were hiding really well! I hope you haven't sabotaged your engine!
LOVE THE VIDEO BRO! EXTREMELY HELPFUL for me due to the fact im getting the same kit do you have a link to the carb?? and what jet??
I installed a PZ27 carb from Amazon It’s almost identical to the factory carb except for it’s not electronic. Yesterday I got a PZ30 with the same bolt pattern as the pz27 but I haven’t tried it yet. I haven’t messed with the jets or tuning yet because I might add a cam or performance cylinder head soon. Perhaps I misplaced the clips, but I was not able to find them anywhere, and if they were in the bottom of the piston, I would have noticed when I installed the wrist pin
That's was well done.
I'm a bit surprised that you made it sound like not that big of a difference. That's a HUGE cc change..
@@mikem9953 lots more low end torque
Great step by step video, I ordered my big bore kit a couple months ago and this will help me install it. Let us know what your top speed ends up being. I welded a 02 bung on my exhaust and used a air fuel guage to tune it with an exhaust and can hit close to 70 here in California. With a 16 tooth front sprocket I can pop wheelies and accelerate more appropriately. I think with this kit and the right cam shaft and tune it will hit 75 no problem and my goal is 80mph but well see. Thanks again guys like you help out a ton with these niche projects
@@kriswthak9175 my top speed right now is only around 105 km/h . I still have the same gearing in the same red limiter so I wouldn’t expect that to change much until I address the gearing or the gear ratios. There’s another guy on TH-cam. “dusty steel” and he claims to beginning 80 mph with a smaller rear sprocket , big bore kit, and a bunch of performance mods. I do think it’s possible with the right gearing, which would be the opposite of the way you went with the 16 tooth smaller front sprocket. With a small displacement 5 speed You could have low end torque or top end speed but it’s hard to get both. Right now I have the factory sprockets, but I would like to go with the 18 tooth on the front or maybe a 46 on the back for more top speed. I plan on doing a cam swap or maybe a cylinder head with bigger valves sometime in the near future
@@613Buildsbro thank you so much for the shoutout!! With a 18t in the front and a 46 in the back I’m still topping out 5th gear at 88mph. If I had more gearing I could go even faster. I might try a few more things to get an even higher top speed.
@@DustySteel what else have you done to it?
@@charlieg1731 I had a PWK30, 70mm BBK, 36/31 Big valve head, custom intake, and full racing exhaust.
@@kriswthak9175 the head helped a lot with top end.
You should have checked the valve settings while it was stripped down considering how mutch work is entailed in stripping it down just to be on the safe side
I mentioned in the video that the valve lash appeared to be spot on, almost perfect. This is a 2024 model and it barely had 600 miles on it when I did the big bore upgrade. All of the valvetrain is contained within the cylinder head. Overhead cam overhead valves. There are no pushrods going down There are no components related to the valvetrain below the head, aside from the timing chain, and setting timing is mandatory. I was planning on checking it, or setting it which is why I mentioned it, but it appeared to be spot on
We are all big dummies sometimes. Great job and sounds normal. I got the 26mm so I might go to the 27 too. Same bb kit.
@@shedred1967 I found the 26mm carb to be the same as the stock size. So I went 27 then later I opened up the exhaust and installed PZ30
Good quality video, very clear. I have the XR150, stock bore size with the PZ27 carb like yours here in the Philippines. A couple of suggestions, some of the video time you spent on comparing piston sizes would have been better spent on the steps not shown such as clearancing the new piston and the cam chain guides R&R. Also, I would have cleaned the engine before disassembly to reduce the risk of getting dirt in the engine. Overall, a clear, helpful video!
Would love to see an update on fuel consumption, carb performance and if you had any issues later. Thanks!
@@telcobilly I only had to remove one timing chain guide if I remember correctly it was the front guide. It simply lifts out with your fingers if I remember correctly. Timing chain tensioner is spring loaded self adjusting so it’s just bolt-in. I only clearanced under the wrist pin a bit, I used my 4.5” angle grinder 🙈🙉🙊 and a file . You’re right, it needs a good cleaning . I have a few more xR150 videos planned, I just need free time to produce, edit, export, upload & edit 😅
@@613Builds Thanks for the quick reply. I'm curious to hear about your experience overall with BB kit. Are you sticking with the PZ27 or getting a Nibbi carb? Subbed your channel. 👍
@telcobilly overall like the extra torque from the big bore kit. I’ve upgraded to the PZ30 and removed the muffler baffle recently. Might do some port matching or performance cam later. I’ve ordered an 18 tooth front sprocket ⚙️
I haven't had a dualsport/Enduro I really want one for camping fishing is there a reason you got a 150 instead of a 250 or 300 cc Enduro I like the air-cooled almost got a sherpa years ago
Please let us know what carburetor you used .
Was the clearance of the piston needed .
And what was the top speed using the stock head .
Thank you for your hard work and explanation.
I have the same kit and the new SS exhaust arrived yesterday . My current mileage is 2500 miles and loving the XR150L .
@@philipcloutier2553 I used a pz27 carb for now off Amazon. I’m told the piston needs to be clearanced yes under the wrist pin I tried to match the thickness to stock piston. My top speed was around 95 kph on flat. I’m getting around 95-100 kph now but I still have mods and tuning to do
Thanks for your prompt reply .
I hope that changes when it is broken-in , as I am consistently getting those speeds right now stock tucked down and no headwinds , with 4000 klms on the OD . I am just above sea-level .
I have purchased the SSS big bore kit and have now received thier SS exhaust .
I’ve already bought a 18 twos front sprocket for overdrive or higher top speed but it doesn’t fit the output shaft so either I need to modify it to fit or get another sprocket because the gearing and red limiter really determines your top speed
The dot on the cam gear needs to be on top. I’m still watching though. It has to go around twice. That’s how mine was factory anyways.
Oh I see you put it on right at the end lol.😅
I do like the bike & this upgrade is one I probably would want to do BUT something inside of me screams "NO No,
don't do that to a new engine that's not broken!? That said, needing to go faster on highways would push me to
do this. What about the material you trimmed off the lower part of the piston? I see how you determined where
to trim to but in doing this is there a way to make sure it's still properly balanced? I know nothing about this so I
am asking & I may be purchasing one of these so this is important to know. Thanks for the work ! peace
@@diggy-d8w yes, the balancing and compression are modified as soon as the factory 57 mm piston is removed, the clearances on the bottom of the piston by the wrist pin area is for clearance reasons to clearance the rotational assembly inside the crank case. It seems strong enough, and the Factory balancing has already been altered by removing the factory piston. Anyway, if anything helps some weight reduction, which might actually bring it closer to the Factory piston weight. I don’t think removing any material there for clearance would have any negative effects. For top speed, I will be installing an 18 Tooth Front Drive sprocket, and the big kit helps with low end torque, which helps provide the power to carry the vehicle with less effort Or at lower RPMs and higher gears. This should allow me to install the overdrive sprocket and achieve higher speeds, now that we have enough torque to counter and justify the overdrive gear
Ohh hey there, this little bike isn't exactly what I want but I'll tell that it's the only bike that I know I'll have the
money to pay cash for. As for the mechanical part, I'm doing good to change my oil & the filters but as I saw
you tackle this I had to ask those questions ; that way, if I did do this "223" upgrade I'll know I do not have to
worry about these things you've showed us all. Thanks for that & I'll be checking out some of your other vids.
peace
TY for responding to a prospective biker..... the "Balance" I was thinking of was the physical weight balance of
that moving piston? I've never seen/heard of a mechanic taking off metal on an actual piston so I asked. Ohh,
were you aware that you can change this bike by changing the ECU? It has one & I saw a forum that speaks
about it as it pertains to this bike. That might mean that you can throw the CARB to the side & pick up one
of those metered valves? They aren't Injection but aren't a carb either, there at least two companies that
make them & it's said by using these there's no more issue w/ elevation or cold weather? If you weren't
aware please look into it, it might be a game changer & also flashing the ecu will be great AFTER you've
got the exhaust & other mods completed. I don't know if there's a Flash for the 223cc engine mod you
just did but I bet there is? Let me know & I'll see ya here soon. peace
ナイスバイク🏍
I wanted to ask you what carburetor you're running now and what jetting to go with the 220 cc Big bore kit?
@@JamesWorrall-l1v I running a PZ30 30mm carb off Amazon. I have not messed with the jets at all
What year is the bike?
That looks like the exact same kit that I got for $70. Is this the SSS kit?
This kit was almost $200 Canadian , I can’t remember the brand. Looks like the same piston
@@613Builds no Brasil somos muito familiarizados com esse motor da um Pesquisada Kit aumwnto de cilindrada CG 150 2015
@@kbecadegelu2842 I’m making mine a 300cc. You probably could tell me all I need to know about that lol.
@@DustySteel tem um site chamado "jefferson preprações" fabrica kits de ate 240cc. Plug in play
@@DustySteel Tem um site chamando JEFFERSON MOTOS fabrica kits até 240cc paramotores 150cc plug in play porém não vende os carburadores mas rexomendo um carburador de cbx 250 twister
Can you comment a link for the kit?
This is where I got mine from Amazon www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0CMGJ4M6L?
Did you bore out the crank shell or just plug it straight?
@@H0GS16 That’s not how it works . The top end is the cylinder that is the bore that’s the size diameter of the piston. The crank is the bottom, and there is no bore in the crank. I’m not doing anything to the crankshaft in this video. The new cylinder is already boarded out to 70 mm for the new 70 mm piston.
@@613Builds I meant did you resize or shaved some metal where the sleeve usually goes? Or something
@@H0GS16 no only the bottom of the piston near the wrist pin , as I showed in the video. The rest is direct bolt-on
@@H0GS16I’m thinking about boring out the crank case wall and maybe going bigger than 70mm. If I do that though I might also add a +4.2 crank since I think the crank would need to come out anyways to bore the crankcase where the cylinder slides into. I think I remember looking when I put the big bored cylinder in if there was any clearance around to go bigger and thought it was already a tight fit. I’m going to make a video soon showing that.
did you upgrade to bigger valves?
Not yet. I do want to upgrade either the head / valves or cam at some point
It is definitely worth it!!
should get and install the stage 2 model is Performance Camshaft CRF150L CRF150F from sxparts $65 us dollars plus shipping . works grate on my xr with the big bore kit
@@CrazzyBacon172 😎👍🛠️
Nice! What size BBK are you running?
I don't get it?
The CRF230 motor is 223cc.
The CRF230/150F frame allows peg adapters to place them backwards an inch.
The CRF230/150F all aluminum swing arms.
The XR150L Frame is identical to the CRF150F and CRF230F, without the option of foot peg relocation and I hear it comes without link suspension?
*So why not drop a 6 speed CRF230 motor in the thing and call it a day?
@@shockadellick i’ve effectively converted this 2024 engine into a 222 cc. I would enjoy a six speed gearbox, but I’m not sure what that would cost or where to find one and presumably it would be a bigger and more expensive job. I’m pretty sure the CRF 230 is electronic fuel injection, so there are some differences there as well. Aside from the six speed transmission. The head is different and the fuel delivery is different, There are holes in the head for sensors in the CRF 230 and 150 I’m pretty sure. I like the idea of a 6-speed gearbox but I’m not sure where to find a 2024 or zero mile 230 engine or what it would cost or how much work would be involved in converting the fuel delivery. I’m sure I could make it work but it would be more expensive and more work for the same displacement 🤷🏽♂️
@@613Builds if I were to swap engines I would definitely go bigger than just a crf230. With a 78mm BBK I’ll be around 276; 296 if a stroked the motor.