Re: Regular Oil vs Synthetic Oil -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
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I knew the original video would spark discussion and apparently it's caused quite a stir over at iATN. I also felt that some of what I said in the last video needed clarification. For those reasons I've made this Re: video. I'm not going to claim to be an expert on oil, I'm just speaking from personal experience. I still don't think I'm done with this topic and I invite any 'experts' who wish to express their opinions on this topic to join me in the next video(s). If you wish to participate in a future video on this topic please contact me at biz@ericthecarguy.com.
Here are links to the videos mentioned in the video.
Original video: • Regular Oil vs Synthet...
Subaru Trans fluid: Part 1 • Changing Automatic Tra...
Part 2 • Changing Automatic Tra...
Subaru Differential Fluid: • How To Replace Differe...
V6 Valve Adjustment: Part 1 • Video
Part 2 • Honda J Series V6 Valv...
Discussion about this topic: www.ericthecarg...
Stay dirty
ETCG
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From this old retired mechanic, what you say is absolutely true. Your statement about the best thing that you can do for your engine is to change the oil often is what I used to preach. Good Show!
Also included in regular oil changes are good quality filters. I’m 76 Yrs old farmed all my life had many trucks, tractors, combines, cotton pickers and never had too overhaul a engine. I know that maintenance is what did it. Oil is a lot cheaper than metal. Just started watching you’re presentations and enjoyed it, also subscribed. Thank you.
"Changing your Oil is the number one thing you can do to extend the life of your vehicle period, bar none"
Spot on!!!
Dash Cam Das Another person mentioned oil flushes. The best oil flush? Just change your oil more often.
Dash Cam Das Hey, if you like this I have a synthetic vs conventional comparison video and also one about a Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil stabilizer.
I agree, if you stick to 10k/12 month changes, using good quality oil there is no need for oil flushes.
Yup just dropped $110 on oil change for my 96 f350 diesel
Just use the recommended oil thats stated in your owners manual. Change it as they request. If it needs to meet a specific "ms-105"
Like you said.....a properly timed oil change is best, regardless of type of oil used. Respectfully done, Sir.
100 % AGREE
ive been using synthetic ang planning to go back to mineral oil because of low mileage every 6 months.. i'll jsut follow my manual to change oil every 6 months or 5k km whichever comes 1st..
@@joshmarvzsynthetic blend could be the better and cheaper option, changing every 6 months or three -four thousand miles keeps your engine clean and crisp!!
ERIC YOU SHOULD CONTINUE MAKING VIDEOS. I am glad seeing your video.
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Can’t believe this went live 9 years ago! I remember watching this video as if I watched it last month!!! Thank you Eric the car guy!!!
Years later, looking at these comments, this still remains being a "controversial" topic when in reality, it comes down to how often you change your oil, whether you want to run on synthetic or conventional.
Biggest takeaway, to reiterate, change your oil regularly!
My dad use to say. If you don’t do anything else. Change your oil. It is the life blood of your engine
I have since found out there is transmission fluid. Transaxle fluid. Power steering fluid. Bummer
I changed my oil alot. Cars break anyway. I'm looking to get a new/used engine ($400) just to keep my car on the road. It still runs well, though I' been told by 2 different mechanics - it has an "internal" problem. 2008 Buick lacrosse V-6 w/182.000 miles
My transmission broke mid December... Ended up getting a rebuilt transmission and, a replacement engine also. Now after 3 weeks in the shop; my car has a new heart w/18.000 miles and the car = 185,000 miles. 6 month warranty included!
Car is a12 year old Buick lacrosse
@@donnareed3822 lmao "bummer" I feel that
@@missingremote4388 was that a 3800 v6 or a 3.6 HF?
Synthetic vs. "regular" engine oil is just the latest controversy for engine lubrication. Most of you are too young to remember the even greater controversy between detergent, non-detergent, multi-weight and straight weight oils. Back in the day when detergent oil became popular what Eric said about old engines and better oil was really critical with straight weight oil. I saw it happen in 1964 when a friend had a 1956 Pontiac V8 that ran OK buy had a bit of lifter clatter. He poured in a bunch of STP which was the same as switching to detergent oil. The engine literally came apart. We pulled the pan and found most of the piston rings in there. The only thing that had been holding that engine together was all the carbon from years of straight weight non-detergent oil. A guy I worked with in 1970 had a 1958 Chev 6. He was a firm believer in straight weight oil. He went to work one afternoon in Minnesota. By the time we got off work at midnight the temperature had dropped from 45 degrees to 10 degrees. He didn't get that car to start for a week. The same thing happened to a neighbor with his 1968 VW Microbus.
I have been using synthetic oil exclusively for at least 30 years. Besides my cars I use it in my lawn mower and snow thrower. I put synthetic in several used vehicles I bought with 20K to 40K miles and I never noticed any negative effects but I also never had any engine issues or performance problems. I usually drove all those cars well over 100 K miles. I used to do all my own oil changes but in this stage at age 74 and able to afford new cars I let the dealer do it. That's another issue. I always have my vehicles served at a franchised dealer service department.
Any oil is better than running your engine with no oil.
Unless it's one of those garbage gas station oils with a strange bottle and name. They are highly contaminated with silicon, like 999+ parts per million. Kinda like running wet sand through your engine.
@Colonel Kurtz I think you missed the essence of the comment Einstein.
Not at all. I captured the stupidity of it, that's for sure. And clearly you are embarrassed.
Read a book every once in a while, dullard.
@Colonel Kurtz How ironic that a fool quotes that.
Ha ha. True.
Project Farm did a great comparison of major engine oils, including cold flow performance - worth watching! Thanks Eric for a pragmatic discussion on engine oil maintenance and products!
Pouring cold oil down a tube or what ever it may be is not a test.
@@paratrooperlane7022 project farm test oil in every way that you can test it including sending it to a scientific lab he's very thorough.
@@robertchapman4488 I'm not saying anything bad about him, pouring oil down a tube in not a real test.
@@paratrooperlane7022 it’s to see just how fast the oil will move when it’s cold, which is extremely important. That’s a test whether you understand it or you don’t.
@@diegaspumper8501 It's a bullshit test! Wake the fuck up........
I love synthetic oil. After I started using it, my headlights got brighter and my tire pressure remained constant.
When I switched my wife started putting out!!!
Lol
Kkkkkkkkkkk what looks after you drink.
🤣🤣🤣
Did your wife appreciate it too? lol
I see no reason why there is any doubt about what you are saying here!
Your informaton about the difference between these two types of oil made perfect sense to me!
Very good informative video, thank you.
look
Thanks bro.
I agree, it doesn't matter what oil you use as long as you change it. I have always used Walmart supertech motor oil ($12.97 5 quarts) on my 1992 Honda civic which now has 352,000 miles and going strong. I guess part of the reason is because it's a Honda, but the oil helps.
Walmart and Amazon oils are made by the same company, with similar specs to Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is the industry leader hands down great oil. But Walmart and Amazon oils are very good too!!
I use synthetic because it gets really freaking cold here... and synthetic handles the extreme cold better
PGm issa STFU
@Aaron Cubitt Exactly, because those people can't go anywhere anyway, because it's fucking cold, man!
ISSA VIBEZ ur are so right fuck who don’t like the true talk is cheap mtfs regular oil is better I bet the mechanic is not puttin synthetic oil
It lasts longer too, 7000 as opposed to 3-5 for regular.
Aaron,
I remember then setting low fires under oil pan or keep trucks running.
From northern Canada.
David
Alberta
Thank you Eric...for being so specific about switching back to conventional oil...breaking the myth that ; once you use synthetic you need to stay with it exclusively. Very detailed and comprehensive. Excellent explanation from previous video confusions. Great Job!
Synthetic oil good for a vortex General Motors 5.3 with 180 thousand miles? Mobile 1 5W30 being used.
@@buddycochransr.1842should work fine. You watched the video right?
@@buddycochransr.1842synthetic is worth it when used in cars but definitely not worth it when used in generators and lawnmower as synthetic oils won't give you any fuel economy and will pretty much Act like a mineral engine oil
I have owned and maintained my cars for over 50 years. I have driven every car I owned to over 100,000 miles and one to 350,000. I have never had a mechanical problem with any of my engines. I regularly change the oil between 3,000 and 4,000 miles. I use inexpensive regular oil. Change your oil regularly and you won't have mechanical problems.
+Bronco Billy agreed. i try to preach the gospel of the sub-5k oil change to all my friends with new cars and "8-15k miles oil change interval" engines/oils. Even if your oil can go that far, its not always about the oil. its about getting eyes on parts of the engine you never see and potentially catching leaks or other issues before they leave you stranded somewhere and a huge repair bill. I also firmly believe in doing as much service work as you can yourself. the better you know your vehicle the more quickly you catch on to problems like that.
I've never had a vehicle break down, and i have had some horrible old rust buckets out of necessity. its all about keeping up with regular basic maintence, oil, cooling system flush, check trans fluid for discoloration at every oil change and drain/fill the moment it starts to turn brownish, rotate tires every other oil change, inspect brake pads and rotors for wear while doing it, etc etc. if you get used to doing it you can do it yourself in the same amount of time it would take you to wait in a lobby at jiffy lube. lol
You get a "Thumbs up" rating from me.
I would love to change my car oil every sub 5k miles..
HOWEVER I use my car to travel up and down the country for my business... I do an average of 32,000 Miles a Year... I would be changing the oi/filter every TWO months.. I simply do not have the time and money to throw at my car to be able to change the oil/filter every two months...
I do however buy the best quality oil that money can buy and change the oil/filter every 10k Miles.
Is this enough???? maybe/maybe not.
exactly, to a point. Depends on quality of build / materials used but in later model cars manufacturers were recommending the 15000k's / 1 year between oil changes as they considered the builds of the cars more superior than in the past but engineers soon came to realise that this was a bad idea and were getting sludge build up on some vehicles with an indication of engine wear happening sooner so went back to 10000k's / 6 month oil changes. No substitute for common sense. Its like the should you fill the oil filter before you put it on, umm yes for me.
Bronco Billy I think you're right. I also change my oil regularly.... Never had a prob. I use CAM 2 OIL... Have been for many years. Every vehicle that I' ve owned lasted into the 200,000 miles or more. Maintain ones vehicle and no probs.
I do my oil change every 3 months. I just did it a few days ago. All the parts I needed came to 30 euro. It probably works out at about 3000 miles between servicing. I buy whatever oil is on offer and go with that. I don't know if this is enough either but I'm hoping that because the cheap oil is not in the engine long enough it is good. I wouldn't want to go 10,000 miles on the cheap stuff though.
Hey Eric, I'm a chemist, and the best way to talk about viscosity is whether you can push the fluid around, or whether when you step on a puddle of it, it splatters. It's about how the liquid bonds to itself as a puddle or a drop or a pool. Flow and viscosity are not the same parameter (that is, scientific measurement), but they are closely related, and they correlate almost identically, meaning that if you have one, you have the other doing the same thing.
SeerTrulth Thanks. Good visualisation & simile to understand it.
SeerTrulth Is it similar to the relationship of torque & power? Not the same thing but directly related & one follows the other. That is: Flow as a function of viscosity over time like power is a function of toque over time?
He's true on synthetic oil in older engines. Also, let us know if Mobil knocks your door as I will stop using their products right-away. You didn't insult any company in anyway.
👍👍👍👍
nukestrom I stopped using Mobil 1 because of hearing and reading of petty law suits to stomp competition, the synthetic they claimed was dino based, their Exxon spill, and they would race advertising Mobil 1 while using a competitor. I was thinking of today of maybe putting some in my Impala until Bob said that. Now I remember these things again. I'll just go with Valvoline since they seem to be the only honest company that sells oil, and their synthetic is truly a synthetic.
Not all Valvoline oils labeled Full Synthetic are 100% synthetic.
Many contain class 3 hydrocracked oil. You have to check the Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS section 3 - If it has DODECYLPHENOL, MIXED ISOMERS, it is 100% synthetic. If sec 3 has Distillates, petroleum, solvent refined heavy paraffinic it has class 3 oil and is not 100% synthetic. Note - Full Synthetic on the label is a marketing term and there is no way to tell what is really in the bottle without checking the MSDS. Unless it says 100% Synthetic on the bottle, it may not be 100% synthetic base stocks.
Jeffery Surratt ..Modern "full synthetic" motor oils ANY major brand most certainly utilizes a mix of group3 & group4 base stocks which is totally fine! The additive packages in them are superior to ANY conventional or Semi- Synthetic oils u can find! Run any Full Synthetic oils such as ..Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Platinum or Castrol Edge titanium and your car or truck will last longer run better overall & give optimal performance! Must use a quality oil filter & replace engine air filters at least yearly or 15k mis max! 99% the populace doesn't at all require 100% full synthetic oils w/ group4 / group5 "Ester" base stocks unless ur running ultra high performance vehicles at race speeds in high heat or / or actually racing a vehicle etc. Even then the aforementioned high quality full synthetic groups 3 & 4 mix would still hold up quite well. Ur splitting hairs totally at this pt ...is my whole pt! Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is factory fill for Ferrari, Maserati, Dodge Viper & Dodge Hellcat's! What's that tell ya? Case closed.
Jeffery Surratt ..Modern "full synthetic" motor oils.. ANY major brand most certainly utilizes a mix of group3 & group4 base stocks which is totally fine! The additive packages in them are superior to ANY conventional or Semi- Synthetic oils u can possibility find! Run ANY Full Synthetic oils such as ..Mobil 1 EP or Pennzoil Platinum/ Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge titanium & your car or truck will last longer ..run better overall & give optimal performance! Must use a quality oil filter & replace engine air filters at least yearly or 15k mis max! 99% the populace doesn't at all require 100% full synthetic oils w/ group4 / group5 "Ester" base stocks unless ur running ultra high performance vehicles at race speeds in high heat or / or actually racing a vehicle etc. Even then the aforementioned high quality full synthetic groups 3 & 4 mix would still hold up quite well. Ur splitting hairs totally at this pt ...is my whole pt! Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is factory fill for Ferrari, Maserati, Dodge Viper & Dodge Hellcat's! What's that tell ya? Case closed.
I CHANGE MY ENGINE OIL ON TIME, AND EVERY TIME IT APPEARS ON DASH OF THE CAR AND SAYS CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON, I ONLY USE FULL SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL, AND I CHANGE MY ENGINE OIL EVERY THREE MONTHS OR 3000 MILES, AND IT'S AN 08 GRAND MARQUIS, GOD IS BLESSING YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
I like way Eric educated us he seems Honest guy
I'm in total agreement with Eric, and I've been working on cars for 35 years (so seen many generations of cars). I would add to the comments of change your oil - always check the oil level and know where you are. Many cars run around 1-2-3 quarts/litres down and that often coincides with internal engine damage. You may not be leaking oil, but burning it. Always check levels. I run regular oil in my BMW (which shocks the German parts distributor). I haven't damaged an engine since I let one run low of oil in my teens. I also saw a motor recently which had shrapnel blow through the block (also BMW....modern with no dipstick)...he had ignored an oil light!
+Phil Nicholls
My sister in law drove around for two years with the idiot light on. STUPID STUPID STUPID!
Luckily for her it was a bad oil pressure switch, not actual low oil pressure. Good machines deserve better owners than that!
Phil Nicholls ..I avoid German cars like a plague! American or Japanese only ..they run forever when maintained properly.
Good video! Ive been using supertech oil in my cars for years. Change the oil every 4000. Got 285,000 on a Bonneville and 198,000 on a Tahoe. Treat em right and they will treat you right. Let them drain til the last drop when changing oil,
I'm switching to Royal Purple 5w30. My car has just received a swapped 18K mile [3.8l Buick], from a junk yard.
New hoses and headers. Spark plugs. New water pump and thermostat.
Drove around town for a week seems to be okay.
I'm going to put some Royal Purple oil in it to clean it out. Run it 500 more miles then change it again.
Amen, lower priced oils = more oil changes...
Excellent explanation Eric! Thank you for making sense of the differences in performance of synthetics vs standard oil. Appreciate you man
Synthetic will last longer and not break down but it gets dirty just like conventional oil.
Dirty oil causes wear to engine parts. End of story!
Change your oil people!
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+Michael Long I was just going to leave the same statement. I use regular motor oil and change it every 4,000 miles so that I can get that dirty oil out of there.
+salazarvic2 Yeah, it just changes the interval to change your oil,
+Michael Long .....and filter at the same time............
+Michael Long Actually, some oils are better than others at "suspending" the dirt particles so they can get dirtier before causing wear.
I went to full synthetic at 189,000 miles. After I changed the breather system and a leaking rear main seal. Now going strong at 291,500.
Robert DIY whats your car? did you notice any difference?
Huh? I have a '95 Volvo 850 Turbo. Not sure what you mean by notice any difference. There are a few benefits in using full synthetic oil...
1. You should get about 2% better gas mileage. That is a $2 savings for every $100 spent.
2. You should not have to change your oil as often. So, instead of changing your oil every 3,000 miles, you can change every 4,500 miles (on average). So you save money in oil changes.
3. If your car is turbo, it helps your turbo last longer.
4. Your engine should wear a lot slower.
5. It should clean the inside of your engine better, less risk of sludge build up.
Not so much what you notice, more of a long term benefit.
+Robert DIY Actually full synthetic oil doesn't break down for as long as 40.000 miles. Obviously it still gets dirty but manufacturers are now supplying synthetic when new and their recommended change intervals have generally gone to 15,000km. Use the best filter you can get. For instance so called synthetic filters are made with mesh supports to last longer between changes.
Huh? I have sent oil samples to a lab for analysis and the oil in my car needs to be changed at or before 10,000 miles.
Robert DIY Sorry, I just saw this comment. Thanks for the tips and replying!! I appreciate it.
I think I will start using synthetic with my 2002 toyota
Spot on eric, I always recommended my customers not switch to synthetic in a high mile engine, because of the seal issues. Even though, I much prefer synthetic.
Leaks : Conventional oil will sludge, sludge clogs leaks. Changing your oil & filter will clean some of that sludge out and take it to the filter. Synthetic oil will loosen more sludge up then conventional oil. Once that sludge is gone, like you said, once it starts leaking, it will always leak. I ran synthetic oil in one of my vehicles from 3000 miles on, after 90,000 miles and 7 years no leaks. With that vehicle, i dumped oil & filter every 4 months whether I needed to or not, most dumps were between 3000 to 4000 miles. I would have kept that car, but my job sent me over seas, where unleaded was hard to find at the time.
05 gmc yukon 280k miles cheap conventional oil from day 1,the engine doesn't burn a drop of oil all original seals except oil pick up o ring ,change your oil people even if it's olive oil hahaha
engines that are not stressed by heavy loads or speed tends to last longer, most specially bigger engines.
Awesome video.
One of the things that I read about synthetic is that the synthetic oil is refined more, and that the molecules are therefore of much more uniform in size, and on average smaller than the molecules in conventional oil. That's why the viscosity of synthetic and conventional can be the same, but synthetic will leak more through the same seals.
Synthetic is engineered for tighter tolerances in newer (roughly post-1990) cars, but works just fine in older cars. However, conventional motor oil may not work as well in the newer cars because it's more prone than synthetic to sludging.
An example of this is the Chrysler LHS 2.7L V6. It was engineered with smaller oil passages because synthetic was recommended for the engine. Customers bought the cars and the engines ran great, but as soon as they started dumping conventional oil into them, the engines sludged up and started seizing like crazy.
My sister-in-law had one of these cars. She ran synthetic in it and the engine ran fine for years. However, she later decided to make a couple of ten-hour-long trips and without doing an oil change. She's the kind of person that just doesn't pay close attention to maintenance like that. Example: the oil pressure switch went bad and she just drove the car for two years with the idiot light on.
Soon after her long trips, the water pump in the car went bad. I ended up changing out the water pump and the timing chain for her, and had to change out the oil and filter at the same time. Lo and behold, the sludgiest oil I had ever seen! She ended up selling the car to a buddy of mine for $400 (he was going through a divorce at the time and couldn't afford more). That was also when we replaced the oil pressure switch. We drove the car for a week and changed the oil and filter again. Its condition was improved to "nasty."
The car ended up running for about another year. Then the engine seized (luckily the buddy got a little cash that same week and upgraded to a better car).
Long story short: Sludge will kill newer engines (and some are more prone to this than others). Synthetic was developed especially to combat this problem. Changing oil regularly and using what's recommended is a good thing. Ignoring oil changes will absolutely murder engines.
I just changed my old synthetic oil for new regular oil and there is definitely a difference when its cold. The engine cannot put out as much power until the oil warms up and flows easy. My average mpg has also taken a hit. Its doing about 1/2 mile per gallon less now. I think the extra you pay for synthetic oil is well worth it as you will probably get that money back through fuel economy.
Thanks for the pro tip. About to try synthetic at the end of the year when I hit 95K. Original owner here and been using conventional
I had a 2000 Nissan Altima I sold recently. I loved that car and only changed oil every 3k miles. It drove perfect for 18 years.
Thank you so much for the clarity! I'm doing a case competition about Shell's synthetic oil and the market for it, so this video really helped me clarify the difference, especially as a college girl who has never opened the hood of her car XD
typically synthetics- being man made are made from a smaller molecule and thus more easily escape past rings, seals and gaskets. the trade off is as said that the synthetics have better flow rates for lubricating, cooling and washing carbon out of the engine and into the sump.
synthetics also being made made from smaller molecules, penetrate the micron surfaces of metals better than petroleum oils and thus clean, lubricate and cool better.
synthetics- being man made- not from carbon base oils, do not break down into a carbon form. certainly carbon will blow past the rings but the lubricant itself will not digress into a carbon form like petroleum oils.
if you take note of any engine that has been run ONLY with synthetics, they don't have the gigantic carbon flower growing around the intake valves that disrupt airflow into the cyl. it may have some, very little, but is substantially reduced in comparison to petroleum oils. this helps your engine make more power over the long haul and increases it's overall efficiency through airflow characteristics. if the manufacturer wanted a big carbon blob on the intake valve- they would have made the engine with a big blob on the intake valve.
synthetics having no carbon in their base also do not pollute the atmosphere with carbon like carbon based petroleum based oils. crankcase gases that are reburned to vent case pressure may contain some carbon from combustion bypass gases, but not from the oil itself or additives evaporating at high temps.
I work in as a factory Maintenance technician. During our training with our Oil supplier reps he stated that Synthetic oil is still dino oil but just refine to a higher quality. The refinement makes all the molecules similar in size. Which allows for less friction and lower heat buildup. In turn less deposits. Most oil brands also add their own proprietary blend of additives four anti-wear and detergent purposes. But whether conventional or synthetic is still refined from crude oil.
A perfect humble ending with a wonderfully informative video. Thanks again Eric!
Been a NIASE certified Master mechanic for 37 years... it is very hard to explain technical information to the general population.... you do a very good job of it... I will direct people who come to me with questions about oil to your videos... thank you for saving me time and money! LOL....
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w40 Turbo Diesel oil in my 1985 318.
Yes. You read that right.
I always change oil every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever one comes first. Sure it is probably overkill, but for what it costs, peace of mind is priceless. When I purchase my next vehicle with low miles I will go with synthetic. In the meantime, I use regular 5w30 for my 1996 Ford Thunderbird LX V8 and change it myself. The car has 140,000 miles and the reason I don't switch to synthetic goes into what this video talked about. I don't want to fix something that isn't broken and risk having anything leak. Anyway, it is what Ford recommends for my engine and as far as I know it's the same oil the previous owner used. Btw, some people may argue with this, but I wouldn't go to any express oil changing business. I'm not bashing anyone that works hard at any of these places, but it only takes that one person who doesn't know what their doing to destroy your vehicle. Take care folks
No reason to change oil on a time interval basis. It doesn’t break down just sitting there. It’s not milk!
I agree Eric.
I learned to changes engine oil when I was 8 years old with my dad. every winter and for the summer.
You say some correct things of how synthetic oil does not create leaks, the oil just flows better and makes it look like it created a problem...
But about engine noise, since synthetic oil flows better... Just use a Higher Viscosity Synthetic Oil... Like the Top Quality AMS OIL ! Case in Point: My Chevy Silverado 6.0 Engine had a Variable Valve that started making a Very Loud Knock.
I put in the AMS OIL Dominator 15w50 Racing Synthetic Oil in it... And the Variable Valve Knock went away immediately.
Now During the winter I use the 5w50 Racing Synthetic Oil - AMS OIL. Works great, and No Problem with getting Oil on Start Up in the cold of winter.
But thinking that MOBIL 1 Oil as a Quality Synthetic Oil is Questionable at least.
I put honey in with my oil and get good results - exhaust smells great as well.
+Mr2pint pro tip
+Mr2pint I use peanut butter and jelly.
When you sweeten your tea, do you use Mobile-1 or generic 10-40?
I add a lil KY, makes it funner
Top Gear already tried maple syrup. Lard works better.
This is an excellent video with really good definitions and advice! I really appreciate the time you took to run through this!!
Great video ! I just started doing my own maintenance on my vehicle and it is saving so much money. Your videos have been very helpful. Keep up the good work!
Eric your channel is one of the very few that I will sit and listen about oil for 11 minutes. you're the man dude.
Changing the oil takes about 20 mins. don't be a procrastinator or lazy!
I remember when I was terrified to do it and now I could do it with my eyes shut. Something satisfying about it too.
Yeah 20 mins try doing an oil change on a german car lmao
Alyn Romero I can do it on my BMW wtf are you talking about?
my old engine seems to prefer synthetic with a little Lucas honey..Call me crazy but if I get generic it blows smoke..get full synthetic and Lucas and it is fine
seems oil is seeping through the seals somewhere. Lucas make it thicker
In new England cars rust out before the benefits of using synthetic oils will be had.
In Finland its a most to use full synthetic in the winter time
Wlell, synthetics (assuming your car is a newer model) allows for easier starting.
Unless you have a car whose engine's requirements can't be met with a mineral oil.
I still cant believe more people don't use krown.
Move
Eric as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS DIESEL MECHANIC I was asked many times about oils 🛢and I always said use what you like. Because when you talk about types of oil it's like opening a can of WORMS 🪱🙃
The best explanation I have heard on the topic.
Thanks, I appreciated the straight talk versus marketing hype.
My engine does exactly what he says. Synthetic leaks out past the rear main seal even though I had the seal replaced by a well known Honda specialist. A good conventional motor oil changed at regular intervals is fine by me and no leaks!
Did you go back to regular oil and it stopped?
One of my older cars 2010
2.4 g6
Over 100.000 miles has no leaks just a little noise in engine timing chain I was using conventional oil but it stated for synthetic I later switched to full synthetic my engine got quieter it ran little smoother and gas mileage seems to got better still no leaks or issues I change oil and filter ever 3_5 th miles with Castrol GTX full synthetic oil now it has 145000 miles no problems
By far the biggest difference between normal and synthetic oil is how their viscosity changes over the few thousand miles driven on it. If you watch the engineering explained synthetic video he pours brand new oils and then used oils side by side and you can see that even after being driven on for thousands of miles the synthetic still flows like new and the conventional has a much different flow than new because it broke down so much. Synthetic has the ability to retain an effective viscosity for a much longer amount of time, so long that the limiting factor on it's life becomes blow by contamination which means you can go a good 50% longer oil change interval with synthetic on average depending on your driving patterns. And because it holds its viscosity so well it's the perfect thing to fill up an old Briggs motor with, the kind of thing that you don't really change the oil for years on. One of those things would go forever with a pan of synthetic.
Not a great example. Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engines go forever on ANY oil. !
sirgallium You are correct re the flow of conventional oils changing as they wear. But it's the cold state that changes not the oil overall. The additives that give the oil it's multigrade characteristics and ability to flow when cold break down so the oil returns to it's base stock viscosity. This doesn't happen with the synthetic because the base is essentially made multigrade. When I learned this it explained why my diesel engine progressively cranked slightly slower in the morning as the oil aged between changes. Change the oil and it's like the battery has a boost.
Conventional oil has been around for a hundred years. Just change the oil and filter at the correct intervals and you will be fine.
How about air filter change that to run smoother like an operator
11:15 Hey EricTheCarGuy , thank you for your honesty. I hope people commend such bravery.
Euro tech for 35 years. Cars today have so many plastic engine components that you really need to use full synthetic oil. Plastic intakes,and plastic evaporative components and all the little tiny orifices never get or stay as hot as metal parts of your engine, therefore causing oil vapors to cling to them. Combine that with crankcase gases from ethanol fuel and you have the beginning stages of coking and sludge as well due to moisture from these airways being restricted. In short, your engine will not breathe as well as it should. Hence, drain your oil while it is warm opposed to cold. You will pay the price down the road if you don’t. I see avoidable expensive repairs in my shop every week due to cheap oil and cheap filter changes. Nice video. Thanks!
Forrest Lucas is a dear friend of my family. We have drag raced professionally for 25 years. I know the science behind synthetic oil and it’s quiet simple actually. As oil viscosity breaks down, the oil and it’s lubricity doesn’t cling to the moving parts as well as it did. Hence time to dump it and change. I’ll explain the process for synthetic oil if anyone’s interested.
We chance the oil in our race engines after one pass down the track. Actual run time, approximately 2 1/2 to 3 minutes tops. Every 5K in European cars we service.
Hey Eric, thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
I simply change the oil every 3000 miles on my PT Cruiser 2003. So far all good, specially when I am not the 1st owner, because he never gave the deserved love to that car.
+Joey Cymbals PT Cruisers don't deserve any love.
+Chromedragon79-> Focus on the main topic, cause I have no interest in debate childishness with you.
+Joey Cymbals they had a small point. PT cruisers have the turning radius of a panzer.
+Joey Cymbals I figured since you drive a PT Cruiser you'd be able to take a joke. Apparently not.
They aren't laughing with you +Joey Cymbals.
+Chromedragon79 Dude, is the only car I have /aford so far for $1600 when moved. Am I looking for a new better one? YES, but now all I can do is care to make it last, otherwise no one will take me to work.
Cut and dry. No BS. I love it.
Thanks Eric. I am a retired professor in Mechanical engineering. I would say your speech is so clear, scientific and useful to everyone. Hope you also say something about the best time to change the engine oil. For example when your car has only 4000 Km on it after 2 years !
Nothing is ever machined to absolute perfect specifications, so the first few oil changes on a new engine are extremely important. This is the time when the engine first operates and deals with any minor inconsistencies that may exist in tolerances. This minor "break in period" will produce contaminants that end up in your oil and filter. Getting rid of those contaminants, with an early oil and filter change will go a long way toward the eventual longevity of the engine. Most 2-stroke and 4-stroke small engine manufacturers recommend that the first oil change for new equipment should take place after one to two hours of run time.
All I can say is, proof is in the pudding. Have been a mechanic for 20+ years. When the high end GM V6's came out in the caddys, 2.8, 3.2, 3.6, recommended oil was Mobil1 synthetic, no problems. GM started putting these engines, the 3.6, in other vehicles, with regular oil recommended, and there have never been so many timing chain issues since. Were the using different chain material for the 3.6...nope. Only a difference in oil. As for leaks on older engines. On a high mileage, poorly maintained, worn out engine....synthetic or conventional may cause a leak just from the fresh detergents in the oils cleaning the gum and sludge away from the 15 year old/200K rubber gaskets.
they need to $ pay $ to get the water pump timing chain/belt and crank and head seals done it'll save the motor in some "interference heads" as well, but that's another video!
the problem with "Synthetic" is its name. Synthetic sounds like it means oil made with a man made chemical base. And tho it can, that's not necessarily the case. Mobil One is a Synthetic to that degree. The other Synthetics like Castrol or Quaker are not made with a chemical base. They're just finely filtered oils treated with Hydrogen, heat and pressure. That technically makes them a Synthetic even tho its a natural based product. The courts decided that when Mobil tool Castrol into court and Castrol won. You also have synthetics like Amsoil which is an Ester based oil. So three synthetics with 3 different bases and oil groupings but all under that "synthetic" umbrella.
penzoil has their platinum and ultra platinum which is oil made out of natural gas not crude oil. so it is as true "synth"
+froochie123 yup and its kind of BS, you can have a boot made in mexico, and then shipped to america and put a heel on the boot that says made in america, and now its advertised the whole boot is made in america, perfectly legal.
+tornsoul82 d mm.
+teerification I get that but synthetic sounds like a chemical compound created out of a lab made with polymers and man made lubricants... not "natural" gas.
+Anthony Smith sorry my phone etiquette isn't up to your par... tho I really don't care. ;)
im going outside and chang my oil right now!!
Mikey! Its 12:30 at night can't you wait tell mourning ?
Hahahahaha
So my upping 5w30 conv. to 10w40 syn in 23 year old truck works perfect? Wow! Been perfect for years now! I blend my oils 50/50 usually same brand for years. 100 hour change or 3000 miles in autos. Perfect clean engines!
I use a synthetic blend it works just fine
elr2141979 lab results show that a synthetic blend will be fine for 8-15k miles. If you want to go 18-35k miles, then you need a fully synthetic oil and perhaps a filter swap near 17.5-18k miles.
I look forward to buying the cheap Dino oil for my 34 year old car haha
Eric, you're the man. Great job! Thanks for the video.
I worked as a lab technician for an oil processing/packaging Co. You are right. You can by the generic brands of oil and they are just as good as the more expensive brands. Because it is the same oil! When a tank of oil is blended with base oils and additives for say 5w30, and meets the correct specifications after being checked in the on site labratory, it is then ok'd for packaging in quarts, gallons, etc. Many different oil labels are used for the oil in that tank. Some are ones that are rather popular. I won't name names. As long as oil meets correct specifications the brand doesn't matter.
oil filter is just as important
TOTALLY AGREE - it doesn't matter if you use premium or conventional. Once the filter is full it just passes dirty oil.
Brandon Harpe exactly, the most important thing is actually changing it
+Brandon Harpe True but get the best filter with more surface area . In my street rod back in the nineties I ran dual filters.
carlos oliveira if you know what you're doing that's fine but if you don't, stock is fine
Do you pour oil in the filter first before putting it on, or no. I see people always complaining about that on videos that show oil changes.
I been using super tech 12w25 from walmart it's only 1.69 a quart. My engine lasted me for 3 hours until it took a dump on my drive way. 😂😂😂
Been using that for 11 years on my 4.6 T Bird. Ok for low temp 95degree type engine that has most power at low rpm too. But avoid for high temp engine/Turbos/ or high RPM engines.
What the fuck 😂😂😂 send it
I have to admit, i am a motor oil snob. But I don't know any mechanic who used expensive motor oil. I love Royal Purple in my smaller cars but it is too expensive to run in my 6 & 7 liter monsters. but one thing i feel is true. Change your motor oil. I have a friend who goes 8 & 9,000 miles between changes. I am not built like that.....Can't do it ...that is just too long for me.
For conventional oils yeah 8k is way too long. For synthetics that's nothing, which is why it's just as cost effective to run synthetics. It may bug you though.
The thing is I've seen engines like Mecs and BMW with twelve and fifteen thousand miles oil changes and see their engines with tons of sludge. I do believe ppl can do it, it just isn't me.
I agree Everette.
Everette, I use 5W/20 Royal Purple in my 2007 Grand Marquis which I change every 12K miles but also have it analyzed by Blackstone Lab. The car has 100K miles and runs quite well. They suggested run it for 14000 miles next oil change.
George Hebert so, you have your oil tested and it lasts that long? I live in the mountains and have nothing but curves, hills, and hills, to climb..I use RP 5W30 in my car and 0W20 RP in my wife's car. I do a filter change between oil changes. I'm thinking 7500 miles is good for where I live. Temperature, for instance, will be 20 today, and 0-1 degree, tonight..and chill around 5-15 below. Do you change your filter between changes? I'm curious because I want as much out of my oil, and cars, as possible. Thanks.
Great video ! i agree with everything u said except for 1 thing. Mixing oils is not something anyone should do. do not mix synthetic with Petroleum based oil. u could get uncontrolled foaming of the oil and possible starve your vehicle of oil because of creation of air in the oil. also never a good idea to even mix brands of oils. castrol is a castor based oil. valvoline is a paraffin based oil. most all other oils are petroleum based oils-quaker state,chevron,pennnzoil,etc. that said, if u have no oil in your engine any oil is better than no oil, but try to Keep Fresh oil in your engine of the same viscosity and make. ie: don't mix different types of oil /viscositys/ names of oils together. Do a Fresh Oil & filter change every 3-5 Thousand miles or once a year whichever comes first and your car will be happy and so will u. me: certified mechanic n.i.a.s.e cetified. studied automotive /engine rebuilding for 2 years in college ( 1981,1982 ) and certified for engine rebuilding,engine tune up and performance. i have also worked in the field rebuilding engines high performance engines, two strokes for many years, boat yards rebuilding marine engines, etc. don't mix oils keep it clean and mean.
Great Video I would love to see you do a comparison between AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Signature Series vs Motul vs Redline vs Royal Purple vs Mobil 1 Anual Protection
DURABLEOIL.COM project farm has done a lot of comparison tests between the various oil brands recently.
If you live in a really cold environment, use synthetic
Justin P. ..or really hot environment as well. Nowhere within reason is cold all the time or hot all the time etc.
David Klimmek correct, synthetics protect better in hotter climates too
I change my oil every 90 days no questions asked. I buy penzoil platinum in 5w20 as my Ridgeline calls for.
Malik every 90 days? How many miles?
Very good video!
In the event an engine had a coolant leak and driven hot with full synthetic oil in the crankcase; the oil will not break-down when heated to temperatures above 300 degrees F as conventional/regular engine oil will or does.
Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil does not have the “Heavies” to fall into the oil pan to become sludge or “Lights” to flash off and go past the rings and out the tailpipe leaving less protection.
Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil is fractionated from natural gas and is formulated to be the same viscosity for 25,000+ miles. The synthetic oil doesn’t wear out, it gets dirty though.
You can change the filter and add a quart every 5,000 miles if you want too.
If you change the oil every 3,000 miles, it’s not worth the extra money for the synthetic oil unless you run the engine hot!
I’ve used Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil for last 30 years in my Corvette, F-150, CJ-5 and lawnmower.
Eric, when it comes to generic vs expensive oil...I will say this...I was an analyst in the CPG (Consumer Package Goods) industry. Now I am talking about food from experience...but I think the same logic applies. When you see a name brand products on the shelf and either next to it or nearby..you see a private label..or generic brands..one of those big players are packaging that product. Without a doubt. I know this because I ran the sales numbers for these guys..like Birdeye Foods...Minute Maid..Ocean Spray..even Kodak film back in the day. They make so many points profit on each sale..they cut prices to competitive..so lose a few points occasionaly. Looking at Fiscal numbers they want to hit their target in sales..of course. By packaging a generic and selling at lower price point not only are you collect8ng alternative sells from customers that do not want to pay for the name brand...but you are creating a constant comparitively to support your fluctuating price point for your name brand. In some instances..you are your own competitor so you can create marketable scenarios. like sales..bogos etc..and still obtain your points.
My point is..lol...I am sure that your thoughts are correct as these companies do package product under several labels from the same source. Thanks for the videos!
yep probably the rejected oils that didn't pass quality control.
+Stephen Gibb Not so much rejected as all oil has to meet a minimum standard in order to be sold...but if you have about 2 hours ...you can read the following:
540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
This is an incredible article that goes through pretty much every oil on the market and shows real world data results for wear protection. Any oil anyone has ever used is most likely on the list. I thought is was to technical at first...but then got really into the research and results...which in some instances was very surprising when it comes to name brands. I think you will find ìt interesting.
No, not at all. There is no "reject oil", if a batch is contaminated it just goes through processing again and gets major labeling as well as generic.
The way it works is they do market analysis to determine the best price point to set for maximum profit margin, then make the max amount of oil their refineries can. This results in surplus over what sells as a major brand so the surplus is budgeted into contract quantities to sell to generic label distributors.
POPPASHANGO
I agree with you that is smart on companies put there gen. next to the name brand and people will buy one or the other...cool
Synthetic oil does not cause oil seals to leak, it exposes the leaks that the thicker conventional oil had been sealing. Fully synthetic is by far the best type of motor oil.
Eric, I tend to disagree with your statement about fully synthetic can be and is mixed with petroleum based oils. If that was the case it would be used in jet airliner engines, because under extreme heat regular oil turns to jello and chocolate pudding, whereas synthetic will be flowing even at temps as high as 500 deg F .. Since part of an automobile engines cooling is not only the radiator antifreeze coolant but the engine oil itself, and use therefore of a mix or pure petroleum based oils will NEVER be as safe or effective in keeping the engine parts well lubricated and free of sludge, as the use of pure synthetic. In short... no BLEND is worth the effort, because you basically lose the benefit of synthetic once the regular oil starts breaking down within the blend.
I like your comment. That's exactly my opinion regarding synthetic oils. However, I don't change as often. I used to go 3K with filter using conventional oils. Now I go 7500 with filter using synthetics. I have been doing this for many years with no issues. Once I change my synthetic oil, I filter the used oil through a very fine strainer and reuse it in my lawnmowers, golf cart, snowblower, & brushmower and all those machines are happy as well.
***** I did not say it CAN'T be mixed .. my statement was it SHOULD NOT BE MIXED, because you lose all the benefits of purely synthetic and start to mess up your engine with petroleum based sludgy oil.
Bourne Accident Okay, so let me get this straight, you take the used oil of whatever weight from your car or truck, strain it through a fine mesh screen and dump it in all of your small engines...?
Yeah that's a great idea, it's like me taking the oil from my1990 F-350's 7.3L, (diesel) straining it through some filter and dumping it into my 1947 Ford 2N farm tractor...
Because that 67 year old Model A engine just needs the shittiest oil I can put in it... Are you kidding me...? Do your poor small engines a favor, and put fresh brand new oil in them...
Let me put it to you another way, you wouldn't take used engine oil, strain it and put it in your car now would you...? That's the very same concept with a small engine, they need fresh clean oil just like your car does...
Nothing different other then the displacement and overall design... The point is, it's an engine, NEVER reuse old engine oil in ANY engine... Not to mention, the grade oil you use in your car is different then what you use in an equipment's engine depending on the use.
For example I use Valvoline SAE 30 both in my own equipment and customer's equipment. Why? Because air cooled engines run at high RPM's constantly and run hotter as well. So SAE 30 is much better for that application, it's the best oil for use in the summer.
Sorry if I sound abrasive, but it pisses me off when people abuse small engines by not maintaining them properly.
Clint Osowski I get you're point and I can't say you're wrong. I do agree that all engines deserve fresh and proper weight oil. But a lot of my equipment is old and used and just about hanging in there. Those engines seem to like frequent oil changes with my used synthetic oil. Also, I own a 2003 F350 7.3L diesel and I never reuse that oil. Secondly, I also own a NH TC33 tractor and I would never put used oil in that or reuse that oil. If my comment gave the impression that I was using used oil in expensive equipment, I apologize. I never meant to advise someone to take a $20K machine and put in used oil. All I do is strain good used synthetic motor oil and dump it in my old cheap mowers, an old golf cart, and some of my other stuff. And I change it often. I do draw the line somewhere. I agree with you about different weight oil. Good point there. It's just that I drop the Royal Purple out of my wife's car and I swear it's still looks feels and smells like it could have gone another 5K before I change it. I am not a chemist either so who knows. But the bottom line here is that I really haven't got much of an argument. I'm just tryin' to save a couple of bucks here and there.
***** Thanks.
I have a1995 Toyota T100 P/U that I have owned for 27 years. I change the oil EVERY 3500-4000 miles using regular oil. The truck runs perfectly. 175k miles. When replacing the valve cover gaskets I could see that this practice has left this engine very clean. No indication of any sludge anywhere. Never any engine issues in all that time......
28,740 miles, due for my annual Amsoil 5w30...1993 Ford 2.0...(with almost 300k miles)
P.S. , the used oil will get put back into use in the garden tractors......
28740 miles oil change!!! Amsoil is that good? Do you replace your filter in between changes? I calculate you drive about 14000 miles per year. I would like to have that oil tested after a 2 year stint inside that 2.0 Ford. That's a very long time, perhaps you have one of those recirculating paper filters, but somehow I don't think you have.
good luck with that mike
Thanx ! Changing right at the 30k mark.....
and yes, filter changes at 10k......
His remarks about synthetic oil leaking, causing seals to leak, slipping by seals, etc etc is horsesh**. One of the oldest and more ridiculous synthetic oil remarks floating around the internet.
Even without the internet synthetic oil already had that knock against it. I had a friend who switched to synthetic oil after he had 150k miles on his Dodge pickup. He didn't have a problem with leaks starting.
Defective seals cause leaks not the motor oil.
neonRTowner I have a 96 bronco 302 at 152,000, just started putting synthetic in it, not sure if original owner and a couple people after that put in syn. , but I haven’t had any leaks going on 2 months and I drive it every day
If you want the truth about any oil have it analyzed by a independent lab. I don't look at oil company's propaganda; they are just selling; in other words a sale pitch!!!
Frederick Right, and if according to the API website, all their certified oils perform about the same, why spend a lot of money on marketing '' propaganda ''?
This is the best video on synthetic and regular oil out there I've watched a few of them this guy gets right to the point makes sense
so you tube comment section go ahead and yell at me but i have a question..... i am rebuilding a 1987 ford escort 1.9L from the ground up, new seals barrings, rings, head, ya the works and have done a good bit of hopping stuff up but nothing to crazy and i want to run synthetic but have always herd that you cant in a brand new engine..... any thoughts on that?
Thats a good point.i have just always been told that, not to say it's not wrong
Mr3wheeledbike Old school thinking from others is what I suspect. I bought a new rig (Jeep Wrangler) and I probably didn't need to but I did change the oil at 600 miles, again at 1500, 3000. at 5000 I went to full synthetic and I have every 5000 miles till now 25000. Ran full synthetic in my other rigs as well, it's the only way to go. After watching this I wonder if 5000 miles is too long even with synthetic because of the acidity.... Hmmmmm
erepsekahs Only AMSOil can back the 25,000 mile change up..They have done it for 40 years ,but the engine has to be in damn good order ..Thier additive package is the bomb.. Just about every one else uses a crude oil based synthetic in America, it is good but not as good as the 4 class..
erepsekahs
A quick explanation: Synthetic or mineral oil in a new engine is decided by how said engine is made tolerance wise and if it goes trough a initial break in process. What some engine makers have done is run them with electric motor for a specific number of hours at specific r.p.m. etc. in order to deliver an engine that is broken in by the time you get the car from a car store, another aspect is how solid bearing are made with regard to how perfect the surface is made. So in closing if you have an engine made at the level of an econo-box car you should run it for about 1000 to 1500 miles minimum on mineral oil, after the initial break-in period use any oil you wish and it will probably be ok.
*****
how long you can go between oil changes is determined not only by the oil you use but also by how pure the fuel is where you reside. I've noticed a long time ago now that in Europe car manufacturers recommend much longer intervals between oil and oil filter changes, this may also be due to the fact that emission control systems in Europe and north America are quite different in a way how they affect engine performance etc.
I used Mobil ones high mileage syn and it actuly stopped the already existing small leek
tyler jenkins you sid it, conventional oils thicker. therefore it might block the leakiing.
+Marlene Alfaro MOBIL 1 HIGH MILEAGE HAS A GREAT GASKET AND SEAL ADDITIVE, BRINGING LIFE BACK TO OLD RUBBER PIECES THAT HAVE HARDENED OR SHRUNK OVER TIME. IT REALLY DOESNT HAVE MUCH TO DO WITH CONVENTIONAL IN THIS PARTICULAR SCENARIO. THIS IS WHY THE HIGH MILEAGE IOLS ARE PRICED PREMIUM.
+tyler jenkins Same here, Going on 240,000 on my 2000 frontier. Rear main seized to leak after the change to High mileage synthetic.
Everything you said made perfect sense to me. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent video-- covered all points clearly and precisely.
The real problem with modern engines and their "extended" oil change intervals is extended accumulation of fine debris particles in the oil, itself.
No matter how wonderful a conventional or synthetic oil may be, contaminants circulating across engine wear surfaces accelerates engine wear.
Change the oil every 3,000 miles, especially if driving in urban traffic.
I don't agree that today's conventional oil wasn't built for engines. When I first started doing oil changes it was rated SE. Now it's rated SJ or higher as the demands and specs for it have increased. Toyota dealers put conventional oil in at changes and specify 5,000 miles. My three Toyotas have over 150,000 miles and don't burn a drop. If my dusty memory serves me. Synthetic oil was conceived for jet engines. I don't spin my engines to 100,000 rpm or run over 1,000 degrees.
Jimmy Z
Exactly!
No car engine really needs synthetic oil. Not even those used in Formula 1 or NASCAR.
I don't trust them Dollar General brand motor oil
+Michael Flores If you have ever had an oil change at a garage or an oil change place and you didn't bring your own oil there's a really high probability that their "bulk" oil that's pumped from their tank is the same quality as your dollar store stuff... 5 quarts of that bulk oil costs them about 5-6 bucks vs the 3 dollars per quart you pay at a dollar store. There is 3 kinds of oil used in most cars, regular, synthetic blend, and full synthetic... The brand does not matter here. Using the more expensive name brands might give you peace of mind but it does nothing for your engine. If you are using "top of the line" conventional, switch to some off brand synthetic and you will get better quality for less money.
***** Wow I've never seen just a single 30 anywhere. I probably wouldn't trust that either lol. Not sure about a Jiffy lube, but I worked in a Getty gas station shop and there was a Mobile across the street and a no name place a little bit down the road and a Midas the other way and the same unmarked truck did all the bulk deliveries for all of them. But it is, like you said at least up to API specs, we used it in everything for years and never had an issue with it. It just doesn't come in a colorful little bottle with a cool name on it and cost 7-8 bucks a quart ;) The best value for the money though in my opinion is the Valvoline 5 quart synthetic blend from Walmart 15-16 bucks, sometimes they offer buy one get one, but its rare. And sometimes it is on sale for 11.88. I run the hell out of that stuff in my 97 Dodge Dakota and it's great.
A coworker of mine changes is own oil I'm thinking about buying the oil and oil filter and I'll pay him to do the oil change and I know my car uses a 5w30 motor oil
Nathan Ryan at first the dollar general brand motor oils weren't certified by api, now they are. At first they didn't have the api service donut, but now they do. But I always change my motor oil at Walmart and my car is running fine no problems running on quaker state 5w30 conventional motor oil, and fram extra guard oil filter and no problems.
Michael Flores ...watch out for the Walmart service dept or their interpretation of one. They ruin good engines in a heartbeat. Be forewarned! Better off w/ good dealerships or good quickie lube place where u can stand there an watch em work!! #NoWalmart
conventional oil also builds up gunk .... the gunk fills small leaks
synthetic oil cleans that gunk away and lets it leak
Conventional oil creates a varnish inside an engine due to high heat, synthetic is less prone to this issue. synthetic also has a better detergent additives which will break down any varnish deposits in an engine thus creating the worsening leak issues. So the oils just cleaning the engine better.
@PGm issa gunk also blocks essential oilways
After break-in I use AMSOIL Synthetic in everything from Harley to FJ Cruiser, and now they have a break-in oil I will use my the 350 SBC in my 67 Chevy C20 PU. A lot of oil companies (like CASTROL) now provide organic high mileage I use in my wife's old Mustang as it has 260 miles on it, runs good and (knock on wood) no leaks. Good video Eric.
I Drink Synthetic oil about every 60days, it keeps my joints moving easier!
Make sure to lube your butt
@@sash0047 I do!
It happens to my Subaru, 130k miles, i put synthetic, started leaking and timing chains tensioners failed.
Synthetic oil for the winter and conventional for summer I find works the best for my car. I tried using synthetic in the summer and I had weird engine noise so switched back to conventional and engine operated much better with no weird noise. Just as well, car starts up much easier in winter with synthetic
Awesome video! I'm also a mechanic. I used to be a die hard Mobil 1 fan back in the day. But, it's costly. For years I've ran Walmart oil in my vehicles, lawn mowers, tractors, etc.... I have a Nissan, Chevy, and Honda that have 200k + and have always had Walmart oil in them. No issues what so ever and engines are clean inside. I do however, run a quality oil filter: Wix, NAPA, Mobil 1... The key issue is OIL CHANGES!!! Change it 3K or so! It doesn't matter how good you think your oil is, it still gets dirty, so changing it is KEY! Oil filters are key as well. You need good flow and filtration. Many oil filters I compare to a tube of toilet paper shoved into a canister. Do your research and use a good quality oil filter!
I add hot sauce to each oil change.
+2000transam100
That's fine, but only if it's Sriracha. Anything else, even that Tabasco shit, ESPECIALLY that nasty shit, will fuck up your engine more than help....
are u guys foreal or what?
2000transam100 Texas Pete gives my engine an extra kick.
Thanks Eric, I have been wondering about mixing full synthetic with the oil I have been using.
yes you can. But use the proper weigh depending on the mileage of the engine. Dont put thin synthetic on a worn out engine.
Thanks 5feet; I don't think I have any worn out engines yet. I recently switched from using Ford's 5w20 synthetic blend to 5w20 full synthetic in our 2012 ford EDGE V6 at 74K Mi. So far I've encountered one person that doesn't think that's a good idea, and am wondering if I should use a 50/50 mix next time, The engine sounds the same to me after the switch (about 1K Mi. ago) and has not leaked or used any oil yet.
@@jimmyross4352 - The problem with semi synthetic is that there is no real regulation to make all brands to label semi synth as that. Oil Companies can put 10% of synth on a cheap, no additives at all oil and tell you they are Semi Synthetic as good as the others that put 20%/or 40% synthetic. Some think they all were 50% synthetic. I buy Pennzoil Platinum for my BMW with 190,000 miles. Semi Synth is BS. Only a few dollars more for Full synthetic.
5feet That's interesting about ''a cheap, no additives at all oil''. All I was going by was A-not being to find anyone who could tell me how much a percentage of synthetic was in a ''synthetic blend'' and B, the comparatively low cost at Wall Mart for full synthetic. I think I'll stay away from the ''synthetic blends'' from now on....
@@jimmyross4352 -- Again, Semi is Bullshit. Same thing the oil companies do with the 89 octane gasoline,, It can be 88, almost 87 octane, (no tight regulations) for 30 cents more per gallon. They lie.. They own congress to stop the senators from making tighter regulations...
As long as your always lubed up you are gonna have a great time trust me 😉
2000 Mustang GT
165,000
Quiet motor....always!
I put Castro Synthetic Blend 5-30 for the first time and now the top of the motor makes some noises that I never heard before.
So I'm going back to conventional oil.