I gotta say, you have the BEST attitude I've ever seen! Not just in metal working but everywhere. Really, I have MANY interests. I amateurily bake breads and pizza with sourdough, I brew beer, I'm also a diver and on my spare time I'm a criminal lawyer! Your attitude of "just get your hands dirty and bloody MAKE SOMETHING" is unique! Thank you!
I have successfully repaired 2 Fisher anvils. The later one the whole tail piece was the hardy hole was broken off and missing. I tap into the main anvil body and screwed in two 1" bolts reason being is rather than using only nickel rods to weld into the cast the bolts gave me steel to weld into. I then used leaf spring for the missing faceplate rebuilt the hardy and prichal hole. I document the repair on facebook and got roasted over it. But the repair was a success and the anvil is in use today. I'm now working on a Vulcan and I have to replace the outer tip of the the horn about 2 inches of it. If you are a good welder and follow proper procedures these broken cast anvils can be successfully fixed. No need to be afraid of it.
I found a big one recently, nearly 350 pounds. The face was pretty beat up and one of the feet was broke off but still did the job. But enough about my dating life. This is supposed to be about anvils.
Thanks to your video I was on the look out for a small anvil and I was lucky enough to get hold of a lovely 90lb Peter Wright anvil, that's in near perfect condition for only £125.
Haven't used it yet. I'm more of a woodworker but want to get into some blacksmithing. My uncle gave me a 2 1/2 x 10 x just under 2in block of steel that I'm gonna use as my first anvil. got some projects in mind but taking my time.
I have two anvils, one in my farrier rig and another in my shop. I do everything in my power to take that ring out of them through proper mounting. Simply because I cherish my hearing and would like to hold a convo without saying "what did you say" every other sentence. Would you mind covering anvil mounting options in the future?
Erminio Savelloni, I disagree, I find that magnets aren’t as effective as some think and the only way to properly remove the ring of an anvil is to secure it to a strong and sturdy base.
Could a difference in anvil material quality be in the internal metal crystal size & density ? Hence the different dong tones . It`s a guess on my part .
Im going to start knife making in the fall. Should i start with spring steel to get a feel for shaping and grinding the bevel or start with say 1095 steel
I bought a brand new cast steel anvil with a hardened steel face plate. It's awesome. It's made by some modern manufacturer in Lakeview, California. I can't even find any information on them. But they make 20#, 110# and 115# anvils. They're great. Not too badly priced either! They can be found on Amazon. If you want to see the anvil in action, watch one of my blacksmithing videos. I have the 110# one.
Still all being said and done, if you find an anvil, check the shape and what it's going to cost you to repair it. Add those two figures together and compare with the cost of a brand new anvil of the same or nearly same weight. I think you will find it is almost the same amount, and the few dollars more will get you a new anvil that will last you and your grandkids a life time. As Trent says used it not new. But, whatever you can find within your budget will get you started in this great adventure we call blacksmithing.
First I would like to thank you for taking the time to make videos like this one. It really helps people like me out. I would like to ask your opinion on two different anvils that I have been looking at. I have been bladesmithing for about 2 years now and am about to buy either a Emerson 200lb anvil or a JHM 260lb anvil. I was hoping that you could give me your 2 cents on what one I should pick. Any help/ feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Wjat is the difference in condition? Do you plan on smithing anything heavier than blades? A lot of information plays into that choice. Of course the heavier anvil will do everything the lighter one will do, but the lighter one will be marginally easier to move when need be.
I'm using a 2 inch thick 5 inch wide and a foot long chunk of mild steel with a 1 inch hardy. I welded on some legs and am using a bick tool for a horn. I'm half way to buying a Nimba Titan.
John Coffee I'm looking to make a rr track anvil myself for now until I can get a full size one. Any suggestions for it? Was thinking of mounting it to a stump laying like the rail normally would.
@@UnsureSR i bought a 20 inch rr track cut the wings off one side paired it together for a larger striking surface welded together. Sounds alot easier than it actually was especially since no angle grinder i used a hacksaw and persistence.
I had plans of picking up a new JHM anvil since they were here in Texas about an hour away. I wanted top quality, made in America, and made in Texas down the road from me was a huge bonus. Spoiler alert. JHM sold his anvil to Anvil Brand. They say he’s still an advisor and they’re using the same proprietary techniques that made his anvil so popular. I had hoped to support a local Texan. The only texan anvil left is the Texas Ferrier Supply Anvil, but I can’t find a decent enough review to risk it. Any thought?
"Exception HF" was on the board, but you did not mention this. I think this might be Harbor Freight, but what is the issue with their small anvils other than that they are so small? (I think their largest is lime 55lbs?)
I have a cube (12" square) of granite - tombstone cast off. I will probably use this until I find a chunk of steel. My concern is that it will crack when hammered. Not sure if a cubic foot of granite will hold up. It will certainly chip away under use, so it is not a long term solution, but I want to get started with some hammer time.
put a piece of flat plate steel over it, this will difuse alot of the impact over a larger area decreacing the chances of cracking and chipping, but of course steel is better, check out your local scrap yard
Yeah, its a risk. Depending on how big the hammer is, faults in the rock, how hard you swing, etc. It will work................for how long is anybodys guess
listen to Tye he gives very sound advice, the definition of a anvil dosnt include shape or matirial . we know it usaly through the clasical image , so think outside of the box, which you have already demonstrated by considering the granit block, it will work for a while, but be aware it is going to chip and crack, but if thats what you have ,use it untill you find something better
Trent, I have a tractor weight that is 2 1/2" wide and 18" x 16". It weighs about 150lbs. It is mild steel. I have consulted with an expert welder and have purchased hard facing welding rod. As a beginner blacksmith should I continue to attempt too hard face this or use as is?
Thats a tough one. With a few exceptions (harbor freight) mos tof the anvils produced today are of such quality, we can't come close to their capacity. Pendinghaus has always been a favorite, those damned Germans know steel!
"Wrought iron anvils were welded together with 5 pieces". 2 feet+the body = 3 + the horn=4 + the tail=5 and the plate...….umm? Just messin with ya. Very informative. Got an old Peter Wright and often wondered about the manufacturing process.
Do you have any recommended places to get anvils? I'm okay with using scrap metal but I would like to see my options before just going with the easiest option?
Best online option I've seen price wise is Centaur Forge. There are plenty others in the range though. Honestly I'd recommend googling your local farrier or iron artisan and see if they have an extra for sale or know someone who does. Good luck!
Hi, I wish you good health and thanks for your video. So, I have a question, but first I would like to mention that I work on laser-cutting machine. I have a huge access to different types of steel. My question is: The base made from steel S355MC and the top from HARDOX 400HB , is it ok as combination, or you could advise me something else? Thanks.
There are people that test the ring with a large BB, but they seem to go overboard in this department. I keep thinking about forge welding leaf springs to build an anvil, but the amount of heat required as the anvil grows is a bit much for a one man band.
hello. I have a couple of questions. 1st does a blade need to be quenched in oil will water suffice? will a concrete parking marker work as a temporary anvil? Sorry to bother you.
purgatoryironworks thank you. your Borax video helped a bunch. anyone that asks me where to go for advice I point them to your channel. have a good morning.
Alright, I need some help. I prolly need to do a vid on this and ask the smiths on YT to help. I'm just starting and have a big block of ductile iron I'm beating on now. I will buy a new anvil, but can't decide which. I'm down to these 3. The TFS smithy 3, The holland 260#, the fontanini (rathole). None of them are ideal. To me the perfect anvil is cast H13, a stepped london pattern horn, a shelf, an upsetting block, double bic. Basically impossible to destroy and designed such that any anvil based operation can be done. The holland 440# is the closes to my idea of perfection but its 3k to get to texas. The holland 260 is shelf-less. Of the 3 that I have chosen the TFS Smithy is the closet to my "perfect" in shape, and I can get it cheaper, BUT its ductile iron, the other 2 are cast steel (holland being H13!) So the question is this, what to do? I've heat & beat on H13 its truly impressive steel for hot work, so I'm a bit enamered with it. Do I: Keep beating on the block I have, save more and get the Holland 440? Accept that the TFS's ductile iron is tougher than me and save the $? Further compromise my ideas about the perfect anvil and get either the holland 260# or that fontanini? If so which one? HELP!
I found a 24" X 24" X 2" piece of 1018 for $100. I was thinking of sectioning it into 3 pieces (8" wide) stack and weld together. Gotta find something to use as bick. I think I'll put in a 1" hardy and not worry too much about a pritchel. Should come out to a 380 lb plus anvil. Guess that should be good for making spoons ;o)
Dear sir. I have been follow you for a few years and always look forward to your vids. I got a anvil a while ago and have been playing around with the craft, but the one thing i have a problem with is that the top is bowed in the middle from years of use and i would like to make it level but the thing is that the area were the hardy hole is thin and if i were to take and metal off there to level it, it would be to thin to hit.So i was thinking about getting a plate of 1" to go on top but then what do i do with the space that would be under it. i can send pictures if that helps or maybe you could do a vid about repairing a anvil that has this problem, Best regards Justin.Ireland
Great Info would be an insult to intelligence, 2020, hear it, learn some alchemy if you're behind, be a wizard, just don't knock your fingers, This guy must be a wizzy :) thank you!
I have a TFS 100# blacksmithing anvil. It's ductile iron. Has a decent rebound. I have a hardened cast steel die that's about 85-90# it has more rebound and a much higher ring. My TFS will show hammer marks. The cast steel die doesn't mar at all.
I gotta say, you have the BEST attitude I've ever seen!
Not just in metal working but everywhere. Really, I have MANY interests. I amateurily bake breads and pizza with sourdough, I brew beer, I'm also a diver and on my spare time I'm a criminal lawyer!
Your attitude of "just get your hands dirty and bloody MAKE SOMETHING" is unique! Thank you!
Thank you for kind words!
I have successfully repaired 2 Fisher anvils. The later one the whole tail piece was the hardy hole was broken off and missing. I tap into the main anvil body and screwed in two 1" bolts reason being is rather than using only nickel rods to weld into the cast the bolts gave me steel to weld into. I then used leaf spring for the missing faceplate rebuilt the hardy and prichal hole. I document the repair on facebook and got roasted over it. But the repair was a success and the anvil is in use today. I'm now working on a Vulcan and I have to replace the outer tip of the the horn about 2 inches of it. If you are a good welder and follow proper procedures these broken cast anvils can be successfully fixed. No need to be afraid of it.
I found a big one recently, nearly 350 pounds. The face was pretty beat up and one of the feet was broke off but still did the job.
But enough about my dating life. This is supposed to be about anvils.
i like that :)
Good one. XD
😔😔
Blacker the berry the sweeter the cherry !
Thanks to your video I was on the look out for a small anvil and I was lucky enough to get hold of a lovely 90lb Peter Wright anvil, that's in near perfect condition for only £125.
Haven't used it yet. I'm more of a woodworker but want to get into some blacksmithing. My uncle gave me a 2 1/2 x 10 x just under 2in block of steel that I'm gonna use as my first anvil. got some projects in mind but taking my time.
Did it Ring when you hit it ..?
I have two anvils, one in my farrier rig and another in my shop. I do everything in my power to take that ring out of them through proper mounting. Simply because I cherish my hearing and would like to hold a convo without saying "what did you say" every other sentence.
Would you mind covering anvil mounting options in the future?
Attach a magnet to the anvil side will take the ring out bigger the magnet more ring it'll take out
Erminio Savelloni, I disagree, I find that magnets aren’t as effective as some think and the only way to properly remove the ring of an anvil is to secure it to a strong and sturdy base.
Could a difference in anvil material quality be in the internal metal crystal size & density ? Hence the different dong tones . It`s a guess on my part .
Its the type of material.
Thanks for your teachings.
Mine looks identical to yours. Got it from a neighbor/junk dealer for $200. Absolutely love the damn thing. Still need just one more piece of junk.
What are the square holes on the waist used for
I've got a 107 pound steel cylinder I picked up for $20 CDN.
Nice piece, though it's taking quite a bit of work to grind off the surface dings.
I just picked up a smaller 55lb anvil and it says buffalo Taiwan on it. Is that any good or is it a cheap kinda like harbor freight anvil?
Im going to say its poo poo quality
likeable fella, who gives me the impression that he's more walk than talk. thanks for the vid
How do I know what my anvil is made of, its cast something 25 on one end and 1946 on other end
Im going to start knife making in the fall. Should i start with spring steel to get a feel for shaping and grinding the bevel or start with say 1095 steel
Spring steel would be a great place to start
I bought a brand new cast steel anvil with a hardened steel face plate. It's awesome. It's made by some modern manufacturer in Lakeview, California. I can't even find any information on them. But they make 20#, 110# and 115# anvils. They're great. Not too badly priced either! They can be found on Amazon. If you want to see the anvil in action, watch one of my blacksmithing videos. I have the 110# one.
Still all being said and done, if you find an anvil, check the shape and what it's going to cost you to repair it. Add those two figures together and compare with the cost of a brand new anvil of the same or nearly same weight. I think you will find it is almost the same amount, and the few dollars more will get you a new anvil that will last you and your grandkids a life time. As Trent says used it not new. But, whatever you can find within your budget will get you started in this great adventure we call blacksmithing.
First I would like to thank you for taking the time to make videos like this one. It really helps people like me out. I would like to ask your opinion on two different anvils that I have been looking at. I have been bladesmithing for about 2 years now and am about to buy either a Emerson 200lb anvil or a JHM 260lb anvil. I was hoping that you could give me your 2 cents on what one I should pick. Any help/ feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Wjat is the difference in condition? Do you plan on smithing anything heavier than blades? A lot of information plays into that choice. Of course the heavier anvil will do everything the lighter one will do, but the lighter one will be marginally easier to move when need be.
Great info quick and to the point.
I'm using a 2 inch thick 5 inch wide and a foot long chunk of mild steel with a 1 inch hardy. I welded on some legs and am using a bick tool for a horn. I'm half way to buying a Nimba Titan.
Recently just got a ridgid peddinghaus 75kg 166lbs and she is a solid anvil
Where did you get it from
Would explosive welding the pieces together of 4140 steel be a good ASO and grind it into a anvil?
Nice to see all of this. I'm using a RxR track anvil and a striking anvil.
John Coffee I'm looking to make a rr track anvil myself for now until I can get a full size one. Any suggestions for it? Was thinking of mounting it to a stump laying like the rail normally would.
I got luck enough to get some 12x12x36 pieces from a bridge project the RxR was working on. It took some time but it works.
John Coffee that's a nice chunk of track. The ones I can find are the typical like 5x4x24
Brian Eckert the 12x12 are chunks of bridge trusses track is standard track. I use the 12x12 as a stand for my anvil and striking anvil.
@@UnsureSR i bought a 20 inch rr track cut the wings off one side paired it together for a larger striking surface welded together. Sounds alot easier than it actually was especially since no angle grinder i used a hacksaw and persistence.
I had plans of picking up a new JHM anvil since they were here in Texas about an hour away. I wanted top quality, made in America, and made in Texas down the road from me was a huge bonus.
Spoiler alert. JHM sold his anvil to Anvil Brand. They say he’s still an advisor and they’re using the same proprietary techniques that made his anvil so popular. I had hoped to support a local Texan. The only texan anvil left is the Texas Ferrier Supply Anvil, but I can’t find a decent enough review to risk it.
Any thought?
"Exception HF" was on the board, but you did not mention this. I think this might be Harbor Freight, but what is the issue with their small anvils other than that they are so small? (I think their largest is lime 55lbs?)
You mentioned a brand called JHM, am I correct?
I have a cube (12" square) of granite - tombstone cast off. I will probably use this until I find a chunk of steel. My concern is that it will crack when hammered. Not sure if a cubic foot of granite will hold up. It will certainly chip away under use, so it is not a long term solution, but I want to get started with some hammer time.
put a piece of flat plate steel over it, this will difuse alot of the impact over a larger area decreacing the chances of cracking and chipping, but of course steel is better, check out your local scrap yard
Yeah, its a risk. Depending on how big the hammer is, faults in the rock, how hard you swing, etc. It will work................for how long is anybodys guess
@Robin -Yeah - the local scrap yard was disappointing. One of the down sides of living away from everything. Will have to look further away....
listen to Tye he gives very sound advice, the definition of a anvil dosnt include shape or matirial . we know it usaly through the clasical image , so think outside of the box, which you have already demonstrated by considering the granit block, it will work for a while, but be aware it is going to chip and crack, but if thats what you have ,use it untill you find something better
Found a "real" scrap yard and have picked up a better option than the granite. Got a piece of a large forklift fork.
Trent, you apron looks a lot heavier than most of the commercial ones I have seen. Where did you get it? (Or did you make it?)
Made this one, its a heavy buffalo
purgatoryironworks ah, that explains it. Know what I gotta do.
Would you suggest a train track anvil
th-cam.com/video/SHWd0bMVSOU/w-d-xo.html
Trent, I have a tractor weight that is 2 1/2" wide and 18" x 16". It weighs about 150lbs. It is mild steel. I have consulted with an expert welder and have purchased hard facing welding rod. As a beginner blacksmith should I continue to attempt too hard face this or use as is?
Nooooo, dont even bother with the hard surface. Pound away!
Hey, Trenton, what is, in your opinion. the best anvil making company?
Thats a tough one. With a few exceptions (harbor freight) mos tof the anvils produced today are of such quality, we can't come close to their capacity. Pendinghaus has always been a favorite, those damned Germans know steel!
LOL He wrote Breast instead of Best........oops
And said it too! 😂
I have a 55lb Harbor Fright avail atm. I'm pretty sure it's cast. Can I weld a 1/2 inch steel plate to the face?
That will be discussed in tomorrows video
I have the same and volt and I did well the plate to the top of it you have to use a specialized cast iron rod and heat the Anvil
purgatoryironworks Outstanding Sir. Thank You!! For your time and knowledge. It's GREATLY APPRECIATED
I was gifted a similar anvil and I've already found that it's saddled so this is a big question for me too. Looking forward to the next video!
Very welcome sir!
"Wrought iron anvils were welded together with 5 pieces". 2 feet+the body = 3 + the horn=4 + the tail=5 and the plate...….umm?
Just messin with ya. Very informative. Got an old Peter Wright and often wondered about the manufacturing process.
Do you have any recommended places to get anvils? I'm okay with using scrap metal but I would like to see my options before just going with the easiest option?
Best online option I've seen price wise is Centaur Forge. There are plenty others in the range though. Honestly I'd recommend googling your local farrier or iron artisan and see if they have an extra for sale or know someone who does. Good luck!
Hi, I wish you good health and thanks for your video. So, I have a question, but first I would like to mention that I work on laser-cutting machine. I have a huge access to different types of steel. My question is: The base made from steel S355MC and the top from HARDOX 400HB , is it ok as combination, or you could advise me something else? Thanks.
Even mild steel will make a good anvil. Id only be concerned with how good it would weld up and I cant speak to those alloys!
Nice summary. Thanks!
How do you fix a really dented anvil face?
either start grinding or weld it up with some serious hardfaceing rod
sounds easy, its not. good hardface rod or wire is extreemly difficult to grind
It has to be arc welded with whats known as hard surface rods and then ground back to shape
There are people that test the ring with a large BB, but they seem to go overboard in this department. I keep thinking about forge welding leaf springs to build an anvil, but the amount of heat required as the anvil grows is a bit much for a one man band.
hello. I have a couple of questions. 1st does a blade need to be quenched in oil will water suffice? will a concrete parking marker work as a temporary anvil? Sorry to bother you.
Go watch my video on quenching. Under the Knife making playlist. The concrete is going to shatter pretty quickly
purgatoryironworks thank you. your Borax video helped a bunch. anyone that asks me where to go for advice I point them to your channel. have a good morning.
Thank you!
What's your opinion on Emmersons?
Alright, I need some help. I prolly need to do a vid on this and ask the smiths on YT to help.
I'm just starting and have a big block of ductile iron I'm beating on now.
I will buy a new anvil, but can't decide which. I'm down to these 3. The TFS smithy 3, The holland 260#, the fontanini (rathole). None of them are ideal.
To me the perfect anvil is cast H13, a stepped london pattern horn, a shelf, an upsetting block, double bic. Basically impossible to destroy and designed such that any anvil based operation can be done.
The holland 440# is the closes to my idea of perfection but its 3k to get to texas. The holland 260 is shelf-less.
Of the 3 that I have chosen the TFS Smithy is the closet to my "perfect" in shape, and I can get it cheaper, BUT its ductile iron, the other 2 are cast steel (holland being H13!)
So the question is this, what to do? I've heat & beat on H13 its truly impressive steel for hot work, so I'm a bit enamered with it.
Do I:
Keep beating on the block I have, save more and get the Holland 440?
Accept that the TFS's ductile iron is tougher than me and save the $?
Further compromise my ideas about the perfect anvil and get either the holland 260# or that fontanini? If so which one?
HELP!
I found a 24" X 24" X 2" piece of 1018 for $100. I was thinking of sectioning it into 3 pieces (8" wide) stack and weld together. Gotta find something to use as bick. I think I'll put in a 1" hardy and not worry too much about a pritchel. Should come out to a 380 lb plus anvil. Guess that should be good for making spoons ;o)
Like I said, awesome stuff in ASO's!
I know it's Anvil Shaped Object but it sounds to a sick mind like mind "well your an ASO also";o)
Dear sir. I have been follow you for a few years and always look forward to your vids. I got a anvil a while ago and have been playing around with the craft, but the one thing i have a problem with is that the top is bowed in the middle from years of use and i would like to make it level but the thing is that the area were the hardy hole is thin and if i were to take and metal off there to level it, it would be to thin to hit.So i was thinking about getting a plate of 1" to go on top but then what do i do with the space that would be under it. i can send pictures if that helps or maybe you could do a vid about repairing a anvil that has this problem, Best regards Justin.Ireland
This anvil needs to be built up with welding rods and ground down flat, Video on that coming up later next week.
thank you and cant wait to see that and ever in ireland let me know and i will bay you a pint...
Id enjoy it!
Is "exception HF" Harbor Freight?
Yep!
@@purgatoryironworks what's their issue, specifically?
But what's the breast option for someone in Australia?
Ive seen whats on your beaches. if you havent figured it out, i cant help you.
Left or right mate, whichever’s bigger, but watch out for putting a ring on it!
How about TFS anvils? Read some good things about them. Where I live in TX, Texas farrier supply is just down the road.
Thanks for the information! Very helpful!
Great Video!
Love the hat specially the feathers.
I just use my fist and a rock
what do you need a rock for?? just use your other fist ...
This is a super helpful video. You made this very easy to understand.
Great info!
So we talking chicken breast or ?
Great Info would be an insult to intelligence, 2020, hear it,
learn some alchemy if you're behind, be a wizard, just don't knock your fingers, This guy must be a wizzy :) thank you!
I have one just like this
Why does it say breast instead of best
Smashing hat
Jet fuel burns up like boom
thanks for the vid.
I have a TFS 100# blacksmithing anvil. It's ductile iron. Has a decent rebound. I have a hardened cast steel die that's about 85-90# it has more rebound and a much higher ring. My TFS will show hammer marks. The cast steel die doesn't mar at all.
"Breast" category huh? Looks like someone had a Freudian slip of the mind! 😉
Hello brother! I have a question. Well let me start with this one.......are you responding to questions? 🤔
i have a 130lbs fisher
Ojala desaparescas netflix.
Lmao. He wrote breast instead of best. Well, same thing! Right?
Im viewer 108 woohoo
Breast lol
hehe bewbs
Meow