Great video! Couple things: -Instructions are included with our lowering links. -Our lowering links are a turnbuckle style, this allows them to be adjusted after being installed on the motorcycle. -The first step is to install our lowering links on the motorcycle. Do not adjust them prior to installation as they are shipped in matched lengths with an equal amount of threads engaged in each end of the center hex adjuster. After installation the jam nuts can be loosened and our lowering links are easily adjusted equally to the motorcycles desired ride height. -Longer links = lower right height -The ratio of ride height to lowering link length is approximately 3:1. That is, adjusting the length of the lowering link 1 inch will net an approximate ride height change of 3 inches. -As shown in this video, the flat side of the lowering links are to be installed inward, with the bolt head and nut inside the recessed side of the lowering links. -If needed, we do have adjustable, CNC'd side stands in stock and ready to ship.
Not sure why you suggest loosening the lowering link lock nuts & turning each end separately to required length BEFORE installation. Just mount the two links to the bike with the two original mounting bolts, tighten them to spec (add red Loctite for safety) - THEN - loosen the 4x lowering link lock nuts, TURN BOTH TURNBUCKLES TOGETHER with two similar sized wrenches making sure both links either expand or contract TOGETHER (the turnbuckle is the long, 3" central "nut" on the stem of each link between the lock nuts.) This action either lengthens or shortens the body of each link at the same rate at the same time eliminating trial and error or having to use a rule. THEN you can tighten the 4x lock nuts. Once done, get on the bike. If you feel the need for more adjustment, loosen the 4x lock nuts again, turn both turnbuckles either way for the desired result and retighten the 4x lock nuts. I wouldn't use Loctite on the locking nuts as by their very nature locking nuts lock, they should not work loose. However, for peace of mind, check them every so often after initial installation. Don't forget you will probably need to purchase an adjustable kickstand if you've lowered the bike more than 1/2-1" and you should seriously look into lowering the front forks in the triple clamps to match. Before doing this do some CAREFUL RESEARCH as well as some "seat of the pants" research as to how much these should be lowered. Some say front forks should be lowered the same amount as the rear shock but lowering forks more than 1" in the triple clamps could become a problem (you may need to purchase handlebar risers.) Keep in mind all these changes will result in a bike that may be lower and easier to ride for shorter riders but if going off-road you will have to adjust your riding style to match as ground clearance will be less and shock absorption will be lower so keep your speeds down till you're comfortable with the new set-up.
Am I wrong in thinking that the one side has a left hand thread so it can be adjusted without removing the nuts and bolts again? It seems that's the reason why it's made that way... like a turnbuckle. You should be able to loosen the locking/jam nuts and turn the center piece, and it will adjust evenly from both sides, yeah?
Yes, you are correct Rob. You just need to turn the turnbuckle after you loosen the locking nuts on each side of the center piece. I just received my soupys for my 98 ZX11 I am only 5'5 so i'm excited to install mine and see how the bike feels.
It is a turnbuckle . I would never use red on something that may need adjusting. Crack the nuts loose and then turn the center to reach desired height. Then use blue locktight on just the end nuts. Or something like that.
@@bluechevyv7156 To be fair to this guy, Soupys Performance (the maker of these links) suggests the red loctite in their video. Not sure why they do that, it's wrong.
Nice video featuring Soupy's suspension links. I think if I use the same links on my VStrom 1000, I will mount them Without lock tight, and adjust the links after bolting in place, as that is how they were designed. Unloosen the lock nuts and raise/lower the rear wheel by turning the center Turnbuckle. Tighgten the locknuts, after using locktight on the locknuts only. It's not going anywhere.
Yep, red Locktite is a one way trip. It seems strange to use red Locktite for this ADJUSTABLE link, Apparently some came loose and crashed the bike/rider. Who's idea was it to use Red Locktite for this???
@@Zx14rrrrrrrrrrr I put a very strong lock washer on the right hand thread sides. I'm surprised they didn't think of it. I need to check the bolts and make sure they are still tight, I think I used blue Loctite also. I wish I bought the 2 inch bone lowering links instead these because I lowered it 2 inches and that is prefect for me. I'll never change it.
Thank you so much for your tutorial/video! Question: Why not go one spin on the left hand thread? My Tenere needed more spins to get that inch drop, and I thought "sharing between the sides was a good approach. I'm subscribed, and look forward to your other content!
I would NOT put RED lock tight on any of the threads until it was installed, adjusted and test ridden to be sure it was all at the height I wanted. I would NEVER adjust one end of the/a link a different amount than the other!
Okay thanks i just got my 2017 fz 07 and ordered soupys lowering link i was thinking about lowering it 1-2 inches just so i don’t have to balance on my big toes. Do you think i would have to lower the front springs or is it not too much of a difference and i could leave the front alone?
Best instruction video on this subject. Actually showing the work being done and in a simple format. This encourages me to try the job myself. I want to lower a triumph adventurer with 40mm bones. Is it going to be as easy do you think? Thanks Chris
Wisdom would say yes but that all depends on the bike owner/rider. Hypothetically, an experienced rider may want to lower the back end and leave the front the same which will lengthen the rake and increase trail. This will make steering the motorcycle "slower" in the turns but add "stability" to the steering (less twitchy) which one will feel while driving in a straight line. Likewise, raising the forks in the clamps (which lowers the front end) while keeping the shock(s) unchanged will reduce rake and quicken your motorcycle's steering response but it could also make the bike twitchy and possibly somewhat unsafe. Some riders may desire to do either adjustment for one reason or another, but if you want your bike to match original specs (although your wheelbase will likely change slightly whichever adjustment you make) you should lower your front end the corresponding amount you lower your rear end. Having said all this, doing these alterations can affect your bike's handling to some degree so (if performing the work yourself) do plenty of research, ask questions and begin with small alterations, make copious notes/take photos so you don't forget what you're doing. When riding after making changes, keep your speeds down and judge how the bike has changed, get comfortable with any differences in feel or response, then make final changes till you feel comfortable with how your bike responds to your inputs. Also, if you lower your suspension keep in mind you may have to purchase a shorter side stand and getting your bike on the center stand will require more muscle.
@@chrissanford8467 Thanks for the reply,very helpful,the links are 189.00 do you think this mod is worth the money or should i just loosen up the ride tension to get a little drop,I know the loose rear end will probably affect my overall ride responce and weave,what is your view on that, any wisdom is greatly appreciated Thanks Again
thinking about these for my klx, nice video, though i think if i do mine i will go with the blue loctite as the red that you used in this video is close to permanent, you might need to hit it with heat to loosen the red stuff. and i would like to point out that these links can be adjusted on the bike, loosen the nuts on both ends and turn the center portion to adjust in or out. then re tighten the jam nuts.
Hi great video'iv'e just bought my NC 700x and ride it fine,but would like to just lower it slightly as my feet do not plant firmly on the ground which makes it a strain when trying to manover,especially backwards,my questin is,is it necessary to lower the front aswell,cheers
Some people feel lowering the front and shortening the kick stand is necessary while others do not. I did not do either of those things on my bike and haven't had a problem but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do them. Also, follow the instructions in the soupy's links as I made a few mistakes here as others point out
Hi - I have a 2020 model NC 750x dct bike and wish to lower it by around 1 1/2" as per your video. I have a question. I have seen another video which stated that I needed to adjust the front forks by lifting them up about 3/4" through the yoke in order to balance the front and rear suspension once the bike has been lowered. I'm a little reluctant to do this and want to know if you consider this really necessary. Thanks for a really clear video.
I'm not an expert but it might be a good idea to lower the forks too. You might want to lower the rear only, and then carefully test ride to see how your handling is. If you don't have any problem then you are good to go. If you notice bad handling then consider lowering the front end or returning to the stock rear shackles
I have a DR650, and of course, it's too tall for my short butt. So, I ordered a set of these lowering links today. As an FYI - Amazon, $129.00 (Prime shipping available + tax) = $136.74 eBay, $72.00 (+ $7.50 flat rate shipping + tax) = $84.27 [ Yes, it's brand new. ] I failed to mention that I'm a cheapskate, and I shop for the best deals. I can't see paying an extra $52.47 when I don't have to.
You are not cheap, you are smart! I want to get a lowering link from a Honda XR650L it has a 37 inch seat height. Great bike, great engine, but just too tall. The Koubalink offers a 1.75 height reduction, if this soupys link actually goes to in lower I'll take that one. Looks like it might be easier to install as well.
@@zl2848 Soupy's or Pro-tek might be some to look at. The beauty of these are, once the links are installed, and you decide you need to go lower, it's simply a wrench adjustment. You don't have to do what is equal to a re-install to achieve the next setting. Heads up - if you go significantly lower, you're going to need to cut 1/2 to 1 inch out of your kickstand. Good luck.👍
Are the eBay ones also made by Soupys Performance, or are they a cheap knockoff? Pretty much anything can be made cheaper, but usually not without sacrificing quality. People often overlook this, then suffer from it when the product they get is sub-standard. Of course, then they usually bitch about how terrible the real product is, even though that's NOT what they got.
I got these lowering links for my Hayabusa but they're bit different to yours. Mine are like rounded end links(swivel |bearings) whereas yours are flat. I cut the main body down about 1cm too as the standard shorter setting was no shorter than what is on the bike. I felt this was not right so, In the end I didn't fit them, just something in my head told me to leave it the way it was. So,I'll just put up with the ride height a bit higher than I was after. Happy motoring my friend
Hi, question - Is it possible to lower the bike 3"? & still have the bike handle properly? I'm looking at getting the NC700X, but would want lower it 3 inches ideally. Looks like the kit will let you lower that much, but not sure if the bike geometry does? Thanks!
umm if the links are not the same length there will be bind it can not make your bike lop sided lol.. I recommend you install them with all the fittings loose then adjust both at the same time until you get the height you want then lock them down. if you need to use a wrench with the weight off the rear wheel they are not the same length simple geometry
Nice video! Thanks! I see that at the end of your garage you have a Suzuki Drz 400 or at least it looks like so! Did you lowered it too? If so, what lowering kit did you use? Thanks bin advance!
What was that grill I saw hanging on the wall? Could not tell in the video? 68 Chevelle? I hope you won't need to re-adjust those links again unless you heat them up.
2 turns dropped it 1.5in? I need to drop mine min 1in for my girlfriend to touch ground but not sure how many turns. I did read the instructions but for some reason I got confused because when I read it, it says do not adjust before installation so I see you did adjust before installation which to me makes sense but I’m not not sure what I’m missing.
@@SevenFortyOne You can use blocks of wood, strong crate, get imaginative. But a motorcycle jack is the best as it has adjustability. If you have an off-road bike you will need an off road (tall) jack/stand.
@@RustyRaceHorse According to the manufacturer of the product, red loctite does require heating to 500 degrees F to break the bond. Red loctite should only be used in applications where you will never need to loosen the fasteners.
Lowering the rear will stiffen up the suspension. Lowering the front does not. So there will be a difference between the two, some ratio. For lowering the rear by 1", you'd want to lower the front 1"x(some ratio). Anyone have ideas on what that ratio would be?
Just emailed the same question to Soupy's (unnecessarily.) Watch the video again - carefully - where he's raising the wheel to put in the link. RAISING the wheel is shortening the ride/seat height. There is your answer, longer link = shorter ride height, shorter link = higher ride height.
The center stand is a complete mystery. I used the same Soupy's lowering links to lower my NC700X & now my center stand is too long to use. I read online the CTX700 center stand is shorter because it's lower. I couldn't order it from the Honda dealer or from a Honda parts place online so I got one off bay. It's about 1" shorter but still extremely hard to get the bike onto the center stand. That's weird because the rear tire is only a half inch off the road when it's on the center stand. Maybe just a poor design from a 3rd world parts shop.
Staying with your original center stand after lowering the bike, yes it will be harder or not even possible to put it back on the center stand. After lowering my FJR1300 x 30mm The center stand was not usable. I overcome this problem by making a small ramp. A block of wood 200mm x 200mm x 40mm thick.. When in my garage, I park the bike, place the block of wood in front of the rear tire and ride up onto it.. Then side stand down, and put the bike up onto the center stand. Because my block of wood is higher than what i lowered the bike, it is actually easier to get it on the center stand. I also removed 10mm from my side stands height for when just using the side stand for a little more lean angle. I dont use center stand when out riding, only when parked in my garage. The block of wood travels with me in my top box, just in case its needed. :)
@@SevenFortyOne This comment surprises me, because from your video it's plainly obvious YOU didn't read the instructions that came with your links. I won't get on you about the red loctite, because Soupys themselves make that recommendation.
Actually no, it rained for something like 2 weeks straight around the time I shot this. I still haven't gone more than 5 or 6 miles with the links yet due to lack of time to ride... hopefully I can get out there today.
These ARE that type of link. This guy didn't read the instructions and didn't understand how they work. The reason one side is right-hand thread and the other is left-hand thread is because it's what is called a turnbuckle - you turn the large threaded nut in the middle and that causes the ends to either come together or go apart, depending on the direction you turn it. Once installed, you don't need to take it apart again to adjust it, just loosen the locknuts, adjust, and then tighten the locknuts when you're done. I really do wish people who did videos like this would actually read the manufacturer instructions. Amazingly enough, most manufacturers actually know how their product works, and usually tell you that in the instructions. Reading is fundamental.
Hmm, Apparently you Do Not Understand the purpose of the Left and Right hand threads....??? IF All Else Fails... Try Following The Instructions...!!! >;)
The whole idea of a left and right hand thread is you adjust it in situ by turning the centre !.. Very badly explained and executed ! DO NOT COPY THIS !!!
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Great video! Couple things:
-Instructions are included with our lowering links.
-Our lowering links are a turnbuckle style, this allows them to be adjusted after being installed on the motorcycle.
-The first step is to install our lowering links on the motorcycle. Do not adjust them prior to installation as they are shipped in matched lengths with an equal amount of threads engaged in each end of the center hex adjuster. After installation the jam nuts can be loosened and our lowering links are easily adjusted equally to the motorcycles desired ride height.
-Longer links = lower right height
-The ratio of ride height to lowering link length is approximately 3:1. That is, adjusting the length of the lowering link 1 inch will net an approximate ride height change of 3 inches.
-As shown in this video, the flat side of the lowering links are to be installed inward, with the bolt head and nut inside the recessed side of the lowering links.
-If needed, we do have adjustable, CNC'd side stands in stock and ready to ship.
Your more diplomatic than me !!!!!
How much are you charging for these ?.. And lowered centre stands ?
I’d probably add that red loctite is not appropriate for this application.
So im guessing you have to loosen all 4 lock nuts then turn both middles simultaneously
@@ItsMeGaryGI think so. Was curious as well ?
Not sure why you suggest loosening the lowering link lock nuts & turning each end separately to required length BEFORE installation. Just mount the two links to the bike with the two original mounting bolts, tighten them to spec (add red Loctite for safety) - THEN - loosen the 4x lowering link lock nuts, TURN BOTH TURNBUCKLES TOGETHER with two similar sized wrenches making sure both links either expand or contract TOGETHER (the turnbuckle is the long, 3" central "nut" on the stem of each link between the lock nuts.) This action either lengthens or shortens the body of each link at the same rate at the same time eliminating trial and error or having to use a rule. THEN you can tighten the 4x lock nuts. Once done, get on the bike. If you feel the need for more adjustment, loosen the 4x lock nuts again, turn both turnbuckles either way for the desired result and retighten the 4x lock nuts. I wouldn't use Loctite on the locking nuts as by their very nature locking nuts lock, they should not work loose. However, for peace of mind, check them every so often after initial installation. Don't forget you will probably need to purchase an adjustable kickstand if you've lowered the bike more than 1/2-1" and you should seriously look into lowering the front forks in the triple clamps to match. Before doing this do some CAREFUL RESEARCH as well as some "seat of the pants" research as to how much these should be lowered. Some say front forks should be lowered the same amount as the rear shock but lowering forks more than 1" in the triple clamps could become a problem (you may need to purchase handlebar risers.) Keep in mind all these changes will result in a bike that may be lower and easier to ride for shorter riders but if going off-road you will have to adjust your riding style to match as ground clearance will be less and shock absorption will be lower so keep your speeds down till you're comfortable with the new set-up.
Well said thx for clear explanation
Am I wrong in thinking that the one side has a left hand thread so it can be adjusted without removing the nuts and bolts again? It seems that's the reason why it's made that way... like a turnbuckle. You should be able to loosen the locking/jam nuts and turn the center piece, and it will adjust evenly from both sides, yeah?
Yes, you are correct Rob. You just need to turn the turnbuckle after you loosen the locking nuts on each side of the center piece. I just received my soupys for my 98 ZX11 I am only 5'5 so i'm excited to install mine and see how the bike feels.
It is a turnbuckle . I would never use red on something that may need adjusting. Crack the nuts loose and then turn the center to reach desired height. Then use blue locktight on just the end nuts. Or something like that.
@@bluechevyv7156 To be fair to this guy, Soupys Performance (the maker of these links) suggests the red loctite in their video. Not sure why they do that, it's wrong.
This guys not got a clue !... Youtu.be is full of these people... DANGEROUS !!!!
Can you adjust those adjustable lowering links even the motorcycle is not jacked up?
Nice video featuring Soupy's suspension links. I think if I use the same links on my VStrom 1000, I will mount them Without lock tight, and adjust the links after bolting in place, as that is how they were designed. Unloosen the lock nuts and raise/lower the rear wheel by turning the center Turnbuckle. Tighgten the locknuts, after using locktight on the locknuts only. It's not going anywhere.
Do NOT use red loctite people unless you never want to adjust them again. Blue is what you need.
To be fair to this guy, Soupys Performance (the maker of these links) suggests the red loctite in their video. Not sure why they do that, it's wrong.
BLUE Locktite.
Red will need a torch to undo !
Yep, red Locktite is a one way trip. It seems strange to use red Locktite for this ADJUSTABLE link, Apparently some came loose and crashed the bike/rider. Who's idea was it to use Red Locktite for this???
@@yoyohooyo the instructions said red. I didn't even think about it I just grabbed the red lol. I should've used blue. But oh well it's on there now.
@@Zx14rrrrrrrrrrr @spafro101 Maybe it was a joke
@@yoyohooyo a joke to put that in the instructions? Naaaa they just don't want to hear someone crashed because the nuts vibrated loose.
@@Zx14rrrrrrrrrrr I put a very strong
lock washer on the right hand thread sides. I'm surprised they didn't think of it. I need to check the bolts and make sure they are still tight, I think I used blue Loctite also. I wish I bought the 2 inch bone lowering links instead these because I lowered it 2 inches and that is prefect for me. I'll never change it.
thanks for the well made no-nonsense video.
Could you do a similar one for dropping the forks too?
If I ever decide to drop my forks I'll make a video about it
Thank you so much for your tutorial/video! Question: Why not go one spin on the left hand thread? My Tenere needed more spins to get that inch drop, and I thought "sharing between the sides was a good approach. I'm subscribed, and look forward to your other content!
Hey, thanks for the video. If adjusted shorter would these allow a decent amount of raise from stock height, say 10-20mm?
Great info, just got a klx 230r I need to lower. Thanks!
I would NOT put RED lock tight on any of the threads until it was installed, adjusted and test ridden to be sure it was all at the height I wanted. I would NEVER adjust one end of the/a link a different amount than the other!
Great video. Nicely presented and edited. Just installed my links and it was easy because of this video. Thanks!
Comments to this video shortened a 60 min job to 20minutes
Would you have to lower the front fork springs? Or preloads the front fork springs to compensate for lowering the seat height?
It's a good idea to do that, especially if you lower the rear alot. I didn't drop mine much and left the front at stock height
Okay thanks i just got my 2017 fz 07 and ordered soupys lowering link i was thinking about lowering it 1-2 inches just so i don’t have to balance on my big toes. Do you think i would have to lower the front springs or is it not too much of a difference and i could leave the front alone?
Best instruction video on this subject. Actually showing the work being done and in a simple format. This encourages me to try the job myself. I want to lower a triumph adventurer with 40mm bones. Is it going to be as easy do you think?
Thanks Chris
I'm not familiar with that bike. Don't follow my procedure with removing the heads of the links...follow the instructions that come with them
Hi, Is the center stand any different now its lower?
good video by the way.
Good stuff man very detailed and informative
What about the rake,do you have to lower the front end also to keep the correct rake or is that only if you lower it a significant amount
Wisdom would say yes but that all depends on the bike owner/rider. Hypothetically, an experienced rider may want to lower the back end and leave the front the same which will lengthen the rake and increase trail. This will make steering the motorcycle "slower" in the turns but add "stability" to the steering (less twitchy) which one will feel while driving in a straight line. Likewise, raising the forks in the clamps (which lowers the front end) while keeping the shock(s) unchanged will reduce rake and quicken your motorcycle's steering response but it could also make the bike twitchy and possibly somewhat unsafe. Some riders may desire to do either adjustment for one reason or another, but if you want your bike to match original specs (although your wheelbase will likely change slightly whichever adjustment you make) you should lower your front end the corresponding amount you lower your rear end. Having said all this, doing these alterations can affect your bike's handling to some degree so (if performing the work yourself) do plenty of research, ask questions and begin with small alterations, make copious notes/take photos so you don't forget what you're doing. When riding after making changes, keep your speeds down and judge how the bike has changed, get comfortable with any differences in feel or response, then make final changes till you feel comfortable with how your bike responds to your inputs. Also, if you lower your suspension keep in mind you may have to purchase a shorter side stand and getting your bike on the center stand will require more muscle.
@@chrissanford8467 Thanks for the reply,very helpful,the links are 189.00 do you think this mod is worth the money or should i just loosen up the ride tension to get a little drop,I know the loose rear end will probably affect my overall ride responce and weave,what is your view on that, any wisdom is greatly appreciated Thanks Again
thinking about these for my klx, nice video, though i think if i do mine i will go with the blue loctite as the red that you used in this video is close to permanent, you might need to hit it with heat to loosen the red stuff. and i would like to point out that these links can be adjusted on the bike, loosen the nuts on both ends and turn the center portion to adjust in or out. then re tighten the jam nuts.
To be fair to this guy, Soupys Performance (the maker of these links) suggests the red loctite in their video. Not sure why they do that, it's wrong.
Hi great video'iv'e just bought my NC 700x and ride it fine,but would like to just lower it slightly as my feet do not plant firmly on the ground which makes it a strain when trying to manover,especially backwards,my questin is,is it necessary to lower the front aswell,cheers
Some people feel lowering the front and shortening the kick stand is necessary while others do not. I did not do either of those things on my bike and haven't had a problem but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do them. Also, follow the instructions in the soupy's links as I made a few mistakes here as others point out
Ok cheers,@@SevenFortyOne
Hi - I have a 2020 model NC 750x dct bike and wish to lower it by around 1 1/2" as per your video. I have a question. I have seen another video which stated that I needed to adjust the front forks by lifting them up about 3/4" through the yoke in order to balance the front and rear suspension once the bike has been lowered. I'm a little reluctant to do this and want to know if you consider this really necessary. Thanks for a really clear video.
I'm not an expert but it might be a good idea to lower the forks too. You might want to lower the rear only, and then carefully test ride to see how your handling is. If you don't have any problem then you are good to go. If you notice bad handling then consider lowering the front end or returning to the stock rear shackles
I have a DR650, and of course, it's too tall for my short butt. So, I ordered a set of these lowering links today. As an FYI -
Amazon, $129.00 (Prime shipping available + tax) = $136.74
eBay, $72.00 (+ $7.50 flat rate shipping + tax) = $84.27 [ Yes, it's brand new. ]
I failed to mention that I'm a cheapskate, and I shop for the best deals. I can't see paying an extra $52.47 when I don't have to.
You are not cheap, you are smart! I want to get a lowering link from a Honda XR650L it has a 37 inch seat height. Great bike, great engine, but just too tall. The Koubalink offers a 1.75 height reduction, if this soupys link actually goes to in lower I'll take that one. Looks like it might be easier to install as well.
@@zl2848 Soupy's or Pro-tek might be some to look at. The beauty of these are, once the links are installed, and you decide you need to go lower, it's simply a wrench adjustment. You don't have to do what is equal to a re-install to achieve the next setting. Heads up - if you go significantly lower, you're going to need to cut 1/2 to 1 inch out of your kickstand. Good luck.👍
Are the eBay ones also made by Soupys Performance, or are they a cheap knockoff?
Pretty much anything can be made cheaper, but usually not without sacrificing quality. People often overlook this, then suffer from it when the product they get is sub-standard. Of course, then they usually bitch about how terrible the real product is, even though that's NOT what they got.
I got these lowering links for my Hayabusa but they're bit different to yours. Mine are like rounded end links(swivel |bearings) whereas yours are flat. I cut the main body down about 1cm too as the standard shorter setting was no shorter than what is on the bike. I felt this was not right so, In the end I didn't fit them, just something in my head told me to leave it the way it was. So,I'll just put up with the ride height a bit higher than I was after. Happy motoring my friend
A shorter link will make the bike taller. You just ruined your new links by cutting them.
Lol
You DON'T adjust the links until AFTER you put them on! Hope you read this before you install lol. Or it'll be a pain to adjust evenly.
Hello there Can adjustments be made after assembly? For example, can I do the lowering after installation?
Thank you
Yes, see the installation instructions and the post from soupy's below
I know this is an old video, but what did you do to the front height? I would think lowering only the rear would adversely affect cornering.
Hi, question - Is it possible to lower the bike 3"? & still have the bike handle properly? I'm looking at getting the NC700X, but would want lower it 3 inches ideally. Looks like the kit will let you lower that much, but not sure if the bike geometry does? Thanks!
You always lose a little bit of handling when lowering. But it should still be fine.
хороший вариант, любой токарь сделает, спасибо за идею и видео!
umm if the links are not the same length there will be bind it can not make your bike lop sided lol.. I recommend you install them with all the fittings loose then adjust both at the same time until you get the height you want then lock them down. if you need to use a wrench with the weight off the rear wheel they are not the same length simple geometry
Nice video! Thanks! I see that at the end of your garage you have a Suzuki Drz 400 or at least it looks like so! Did you lowered it too? If so, what lowering kit did you use? Thanks bin advance!
It appears we have been abandoned
@@yoyohooyo hahahaha yeap🤣
Nope, not abandoned I just never saw you original comment. The other bike was a kkr250 and I didn't lower it.
@@SevenFortyOne No worries! Thanks for your Videos👍
What was that grill I saw hanging on the wall? Could not tell in the video? 68 Chevelle? I hope you won't need to re-adjust those links again unless you heat them up.
It came off of my friend's 69 Plymouth Fury-III
2 turns dropped it 1.5in? I need to drop mine min 1in for my girlfriend to touch ground but not sure how many turns. I did read the instructions but for some reason I got confused because when I read it, it says do not adjust before installation so I see you did adjust before installation which to me makes sense but I’m not not sure what I’m missing.
@@TheZakkmylde I suggest following the instructions from soupy...what I did worked for me but isn't the recommended procedure
What about lowering front forks?
so you have a center kick stand under the bike. What would we do if we don't have that? How do you stabilize the bike when jacking up the swing arm.
The best thing would be to use a motorcycle jack.
@@SevenFortyOne You can use blocks of wood, strong crate, get imaginative. But a motorcycle jack is the best as it has adjustability. If you have an off-road bike you will need an off road (tall) jack/stand.
I lowered mine 2 inches. I'm 5' 11" . How much did you lower yours?
hey i was planning to jack up my honda nc700x and i was wondering what maximum soupy's I can find for it
great, very imformative
very good thank you
Thank for the video!
Great install video. Have you adjusted them since the install? If so how was it with the Red Loctite?
I haven't had to adjust them yet
Does red loctite require heat to remove?
@@RustyRaceHorse According to the manufacturer of the product, red loctite does require heating to 500 degrees F to break the bond. Red loctite should only be used in applications where you will never need to loosen the fasteners.
@@willywaters3814 LOL Red seems crazy and overkill?
@@yoyohooyo for this yea. I just used a drop. Or you can do a bunch of blue loctite and it will come loose if you need it to.
After you lower the bike did you had to lower the front also
I didn't but some people do. It depends on how much you lower the rear.
What’s the factory torque specs i can’t find mine for my r6 in the manual or online i heard it was 40-50 lb ft
Lowering the rear will stiffen up the suspension. Lowering the front does not. So there will be a difference between the two, some ratio. For lowering the rear by 1", you'd want to lower the front 1"x(some ratio). Anyone have ideas on what that ratio would be?
What about adjusting the front to match?
Thank you
So longer or shorter to lower? With RED loctite, do you plan on never adjusting it again?
To be fair to this guy, Soupys Performance (the maker of these links) suggests the red loctite in their video. Not sure why they do that, it's wrong.
@@willywaters3814 Yeah, I used Blue. I'll keep an eye on it.
Just emailed the same question to Soupy's (unnecessarily.) Watch the video again - carefully - where he's raising the wheel to put in the link. RAISING the wheel is shortening the ride/seat height. There is your answer, longer link = shorter ride height, shorter link = higher ride height.
The center stand is a complete mystery. I used the same Soupy's lowering links to lower my NC700X & now my center stand is too long to use. I read online the CTX700 center stand is shorter because it's lower. I couldn't order it from the Honda dealer or from a Honda parts place online so I got one off bay. It's about 1" shorter but still extremely hard to get the bike onto the center stand. That's weird because the rear tire is only a half inch off the road when it's on the center stand. Maybe just a poor design from a 3rd world parts shop.
Staying with your original center stand after lowering the bike, yes it will be harder or not even possible to put it back on the center stand. After lowering my FJR1300 x 30mm The center stand was not usable. I overcome this problem by making a small ramp. A block of wood 200mm x 200mm x 40mm thick.. When in my garage, I park the bike, place the block of wood in front of the rear tire and ride up onto it.. Then side stand down, and put the bike up onto the center stand. Because my block of wood is higher than what i lowered the bike, it is actually easier to get it on the center stand.
I also removed 10mm from my side stands height for when just using the side stand for a little more lean angle.
I dont use center stand when out riding, only when parked in my garage.
The block of wood travels with me in my top box, just in case its needed. :)
@@bat6225 Thanks, I'll try that.
How tall are you? Just wondering how well lowering the bike was. Thanks
5'6"
Oh no I followed these instructions but now my rear tire is Rubbing the fender 😢 is the process different for a hayabusa?
Every bike is different, make sure you check the instructions that came with your links
@@SevenFortyOne This comment surprises me, because from your video it's plainly obvious YOU didn't read the instructions that came with your links.
I won't get on you about the red loctite, because Soupys themselves make that recommendation.
now lower the front, shorten your kickstand, and adjust your chain
Didn’t you alter the front suspension
I didn't becauae I didn't lower it much
Can they be adjusted in tha bike without removing them?
Yeah, that's what they were designed for, ignore this guy !!!
please tell us how to repair the rear monoshock or equivalent
How tall are you and what is your inseam? I'm 5'3" and 27" I find the stock NCX too tall.
I'm 5-5 and 30"inseam. I'm used to riding tall dirtbikes so it was ok
I’ve never been more confused lol. so complicated for it being a few bolts
thez nuts.. Got emmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Did the rain ever let up?
Actually no, it rained for something like 2 weeks straight around the time I shot this. I still haven't gone more than 5 or 6 miles with the links yet due to lack of time to ride... hopefully I can get out there today.
Does anyone else worry about the integrity of the all thread possibly failing???
Are you still available to use your centerstand
Yes
good
Looks like you have a few bikes
Is there anything like this available in the uk?
I'm not sure. You might be able to get these shipped to the UK if you can't find anything
What about the forks you definitely need to adjust if the center came down 1 1/2
those links suck you gotta remove them to adjust you want the links you can adjust while its on the bike
These ARE that type of link. This guy didn't read the instructions and didn't understand how they work. The reason one side is right-hand thread and the other is left-hand thread is because it's what is called a turnbuckle - you turn the large threaded nut in the middle and that causes the ends to either come together or go apart, depending on the direction you turn it. Once installed, you don't need to take it apart again to adjust it, just loosen the locknuts, adjust, and then tighten the locknuts when you're done.
I really do wish people who did videos like this would actually read the manufacturer instructions. Amazingly enough, most manufacturers actually know how their product works, and usually tell you that in the instructions.
Reading is fundamental.
Hmm, Apparently you Do Not Understand the purpose of the Left and Right hand threads....???
IF All Else Fails... Try Following The Instructions...!!! >;)
Easy mod, just time.
Follow the instructions supplied, NOT THIS !!!
The whole idea of a left and right hand thread is you adjust it in situ by turning the centre !.. Very badly explained and executed !
DO NOT COPY THIS !!!
Thank you for this!