Lemon!? Problems With Our 2023 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat Redeye Widebody Jailbreak
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- I excitedly waited almost two months to the day from when my car rolled off the line at the assembly plant until it arrived at my dealer. I got it home and started the break-in process as soon as it showed up. Everything was going great until just after I filmed the first video on the car. Since then, it has not responded to the keyfob on three occasions. One time it was parked in my garage and unlocked, so I tried starting it, and nothing. I even pushed the start button with the keyfob, and no response from the car either. (Yes, I tried all three fobs). On each occasion, after 5-10 minutes or so, the car would respond to the keyfob as normal, like nothing even happened.
From there, things started to get worse. I started the car up, started driving down the road, and suddenly, it started dinging at me. NO BUS was displayed where the odometer usually sits. The center screen was cycling between service adaptive suspension, service stability control. service tpms, and service abs. The fuel gauge was reading empty, but the range was still showing correctly. The wipers were going on high even though they were turned off. I shut the car off, restarted it and all the errors were gone.
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Well, after some Googling looks like I might have gotten excited too early. It looks like the NHP connector is typically not plugged in on these cars for whatever reason. Someone was having similar issues for different systems and pointed out this same canbus connector not being connected. It ended up being a different Molex connector causing his issues. Apparently, he found it himself after the car had been at the dealer for 100 days.
That kind of just confirmed for me that I'm done. The car is going back tomorrow. It sucks. I spent $5k to fly out and watch the car get built at the plant, it's my dream spec, and it's the last year and irreplaceable. BUT at the end of the day, it's just a car. My focus needs to be on the 2015 and moving forward with that build, not a brand-new car.
I owned a 2016 Hellcat Challenger which I bought new off the showroom floor. What a P.O.S.!! All within 16k miles on her I had to replace the supercharger, then 3 weeks later motor failed, then 2nd motor failed all with internal oiling issues. The Chrysler put the 3rd motor in but told me “No more! They’re done, and the next motor is on me! I was still in my bumper to bumper warranty period. I told them that their mechanics said it wasn’t my fault, and they were getting Cats in with internal oiling issues. I wasn’t even hard on the car as I planned to keep it for good. Chrysler told me “That’s where I went wrong. I should of beat the crap out of it and this wouldn’t of happened!” WTF?? I sold it off to a Dodge Dealer. Car Fax was clean on car. Nothing mentioned about all the problems I had since ownership. Years later I now own a Challenger 1320. Very happy with the 392 Hemi. It’s been 1.5 yrs without any issues and I drag it down the track 3x a year too 😊👍🏻
The pain in your voice says it all: send her BACK 😢
It sounds like a CAN bus issue. Specifically, one of the lines (CAN HI OR CAN LO) intermittently shorts to ground or to another circuit. That is why sometimes your car works fine and then the next minute it begins to have issues. Here is what to look for: 1. A bent terminal touching another terminal within a connector that houses the CAN lines could be the problem. 2. A pinch wire harness that has the CAN lines could be pinched (you did mention a possible pinched wire). A CAN bus line shorting to ground or to another circuit causes issues very similar to what you are experiencing. A good technician with a very good understanding of electrical systems and using the electrical schematics should be able to find the problem. I have worked on several vehicles with similar issues as yours. A technician should start by the process of elimination. Start by disconnecting each component that is connected to the CAN bus. If there is no change, then try the next component. Always reconnect that component before going on to the next one. You will also need to check in-line connectors that are normally found in the lower A-pillars. Today's vehicles utilizes CAN bus communication in almost every electrical component (audio system, electric steering system, engine & transmission, power windows, ABS brakes, airbag system, etc). I have found that many technicians tend to shy away from electrical issues. So finding a good one may be a challenge! I used to work as an engineer at an automotive manufacturing plant and have seen these same issues come up once in a while. This car can be repaired! It is not a lost cause! So blessings to you on your decision. I too would like to purchase a used car like yours someday! 😀
Same thing happened on my 17 Charger. Dash said NO BUS. Power Steering rack electrical connector got water in it and shorted out. I cut out the bad connector, installed a new one, and everything works fine. I did the troubleshooting myself by unplugging the CAN BUS connections ONE AT A TIME, and found out it was the power steering connection. Good luck
Man, that really sucks. If I were you, I would give the Electrical Technician the opportunity in finding the problem with an understanding with the dealership that if not fixed that you would still have the option of turning in the car at no loss. From the video I can see that you are having a hard time of letting go of such a beautiful car; however, electrical problem can become endless headaches since they are so difficult to find. The best of luck.
If only itworked likethat
It’s me again, Mike you should definitely get rid of the car take it back get another one because electrical problems for a new car not good because when the car goes out of warranty, it will be left without a good dependable car to drive and you definitely don’t want that. Thanks for the videos. Keep them up. Keep them going. Good job.
Dude the car will be fine. One bad connection is likely going to happen with ANY make or model if its brand new. Trust me, these cars are SUPER RELIABLE overall. Once you put some miles on it if there are any other kinks they will be exposed and repaired under warranty. THEN, when you are satisfied everything is good, there is a huge aftermarket to work with to build the car exactly as you want it. I know 3 people that have bought brand new cars in the last 4 months, EVERY SINGLE ONE had at least one repair needed within the first 500 miles, and not one of them was a Chrysler product. We are talking a very expensive new Mercedes G Wagon, a BMW M5 Competition, and a VW Jetta in the top trim level. The problems consisted of something electrical either unhooked or loose, a sensor that went bad, and a brake part malfunctioning.
Sounds as if someone was trying to copy your car's keyfob frequency and trying to unlock the car with the copy. If that happened, the rolling code wouldn't match and the car will think someone is stealing it. Hopefully it's not this... as this could mean someone is preparing to steal it. Careful out there.
If the car is brand spanking new then does this? You can tell dodge was rushing these vehicles out the gate so they can get them out before this year. I’m surprised the dealership lets you return the car because once the papers are signed and the down payment is done there’s usually a no refund policy and can’t get your money back. For a new car this is no excuse for dodge to have this bad of electrical problems when they’ve used the same chassis, body design, interior and technology for the past 10 plus years in their muscle cars.
It is a Dodge product. One problem after another is a guarantee!
The same thing happened to me but worse. 2 months at the dealership later they finally figured out it was a defective ECM. Dodge doubled my factory warranty
Manufacturers across the board are shitting cars out as fast as they can and it shows in all the issues with 21+ vehicles
I've had two bmw x1 and have had zero problems with them, the one I'm in now had 70 k miles and I still haven't even had to change the brakes. My dealership does my oil for the next five years all for 300 bucks one time payment. I will probably get another one when this one hits 100k
I’ll take it back too especially with the prices on these cars now that’s completely unacceptable. Another one would pop up somewhere 🤞🏾
I have 2021 helcat and that same thing happened to me last week. It wouldn’t start. I did the same thing with the fob but nothing. I checked the battery and it checked out good 11.6 v. Then I went back in the car and it turned over. Wow I didn’t know that this even an issue. Now you got me thinking about my own hellcat!
My 2 cents? Let it go while you can...Walk away...Good Luck!
Had a 2016 challenger scat pack shaker and sold it last year Only issue I ever had was replacing one tire pressure sensor This really sucks for you since they have stopped production
The majority of them are good, I just got unlucky.
Uugghhh- Brother, unbelievable. Since she's so special and they (DODGE) cannot afford any bad press on the Tube. You should document it. Really sucks, that cat is absolutely AWESOME!
I suggest, letting their electrical tech play with it for one week, if not resolved, exchange it for ( hopefully) another same spec car ( if one is available), even if it's a different color. There must be another color you would like even if it's your second favorite. Have this vehicle located and shipped for free to your closest dealership and then let the journey begin again. Are they still taking orders? Good luck.
I would go that route but I’m in Canada and we only get roughly 10% of yearly allocations. Maybe 100 of these cars were built for Canada this year and Hellcat and Redeye ordering closed up here at the end of May. As for finding another one it’s basically impossible any allocations were pretty much pre sold, other than finding a flipper with a used one for $50k over MSRP I’m SOL. Challenger ordering stops at the end of this month. Also their electrical tech is on vacation for 2 weeks. At the end of the day it’s just a car, not the end of the world. i appreciate the thoughts though.
@@MoparInsiders What's involved with getting a brand new US version? There must be a way.
Unless you want the headache I'd say give it back. At least you still have the 2015 build goin for yourself. Best of luck man. 🙏🏼
Wow that sucks. My 2022 hellcat was delivered with a voltage light on. They found a bent plug at the alternator. Can't believe it left the factory like that.
Unacceptable for a car that cost 90K+ new
I bought a used 2020 Frostbite RE WB highly optioned with a full clear PPF on entire car. I had all sorts of issues from crank no start, to stubble and almost die, to loud ticking noise. I traded it for 23 Raptor. I am a car guy but unfortunately mostly just like the Mopar stuff so I went with a truck. After I sold it the car lot added the CarFax and I was the 5th owner and got it at 2,600 miles so I think it was a problematic car for previous owners as well.
There have been alot of complaints with different issues on the 21-23 model years....its like they were rushed during the build sequence....especially since the last vehicles are ending.
Check your harnesses for rodent damage, a squirrel chewed mine, it was a very discreet bite but several wires were chewed through, all kind of codes, after repair it works great.
I worked for Dodge and that's why these cars should never cost more than 50 or 60k but people love that power 😂😂😂
Yikes. My 3 month old Swinger Scat Pack has decided to throw the battery light, then fix itself for a week, then not start in the morning and show me a bunch of lights on the dash, then I pop the clutch to start it and it’s perfectly fine again with no issues. Now I’m doing the good morning surprise dance. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Hope it’s something simple! 🙏
You have until July 30th to get your last call order in for a new redeye jailbreak from the Brampton plant
Fudge that bro. Give them time to replace some modules. It’s an easy fix, this is a last call redeye.. It’s worth the gamble .🤘🏾🤘🏾
Keep it in a garage or the tail lights out of weather. I worked at a dealer. Star was turning down customers on all the LED systems, first with second gen chargers, challengers, durangos and anything with the light across the tail. Some darts were affected. But never a tsb in our books. 15-2023 all suffer from a leaking tail assembly in weather issues. Mostly colder states, but many in the auctions don't light properly now. You'll find that over time, the body controllers are susceptible to some issues as well. I'd pull the center tail light assembly and just seal the two openings on each end where there is open view to the inside light assembly. Cover them. And make sure that it is sealed putting it back on. Water gets in the light assemblies on those models. In the winter, they freeze, in the summer they corrode and a terminal usually comes off permanently. You'll see more left or passenger sides out at first. Then the bottom light.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to send Or not, but here's my 2 cents worth.I worked on car electrical for 30 years, it's not magic. And it's not gonna be a pinched wire in the harness. Unless you added something to the car and pinched it yourself, So if you didn't add anything, it will not be that it's going to be a moving part, a connector more than likely. You would have to disconnect every electronic control module which there is a lot Of them in That car check the pins at both ends and reconnect, at The connector You would be checking for a bent pin or pushed in pin If the problem still persists, it's going to be one of The ECM 's If that was my car, I would do everything In my power to keep it, it's a beautiful car and a great pick on your part.
Same problem with my 2023 SXT AWD a few days after driving it home from the dealer. It’s there now, I’m being told it’s a bus module issue. I want out of the car already cuz I know these can be ongoing intermittent issues and I’m spooked.
Man sorry that happened to you its a nice ride hopefully they can fix it for you really like that shade of blue as well if i ever repaint my foxbody a different color i would definitely consider that shade of blue
Sorry to hear I know of one person had similar issues come to find out a body harness pinched between body and frame
That's a perfect spec.Give them a chance to fix it.
My 392 throws stability and ABS and crank position sensor codes, or warnings. Can't track it down, drive shaft carrier bearing mount went out 2nd day I had it.
I feel for ya. I was bummed, when my 23 scat challenger windshield cracked w/o impact on the way home from the dealer. Tail light panel fit sucked, but was an easy fix, adjusting the trunk latch. Get rid of it.
Man, it sucks but I'd take it back and let a dealer you trust work on it. Returning it seems lame and you just giving up. Time or no time.
It sucks because I feel the dealership techs caint fix anything. My Jeep which is under warranty has been at the dealership for over a month for a rattle towards the top of the engine. They are throwing parts at it and caint figure it out.
My 23 Jailbreak Challenger is headed for its THIRD battery with 1900 miles. My FOB is failing, POOOB Bank 1 Camshaft 2 Position Sensor Slow Response Code. Dealer says "No problem" found. BULL SH*T! I cant say Im shocked.......they are building a million "Last Call" cars and quality has went to SH*T!
this is why I love the 60s
I gotta 15 cat, here for your race car build now
I'd check under the dash to see if a tracking system/alarm system was frontloaded while it was on the lot. The contracted installer uses t-taps on whatever they can find for 12v and ignition. The tracker will be deactivated if not purchased by the customer, but left in the vehicle. It's usually found under the driver side carpet, behind the pedals. It's worth a look. 9/10 the dealer will not know it's in the vehicle because it may have been traded from a dealer who had it installed and deactivated for a dealer trade. Removing the leave behind electronics usually fixed the problem. Also check for wire damage.
The whole situation sucks. But it becomes a problem when you pay for a 60-80k car or maybe even more to be having issue with less than 1k miles. The way these automotive companies are making these cars nowadays is just plan disappointing. Not to mention dodge has been known for rushing the production of cars that are in fact not 100 percent ready. Hopefully you get your situation under control.
I Have done very deep reaserch on redeye before purchased mine and
Best Year to go for would be 2019-2020 pre COVID as after that there is so many issues as there been lack of Parts avalible and they have decided to use replacement much Weaker Parts -it’s all confirmed by Canadian Dodge plant employees
Let them fix it first,give yourself a chance bro.
For over $100,000 vehicle & its not perfect, I say send it back since the Dealer is being so Nice & Polite & willing to take over a month old vehicle back,
Cause I have never heard of a Dealer taking a One to Two month old vehicle back......
Usually the buyer is stuck with the vehicle, especially after owning it over 30 days.
I have a 22 charger hellcat redeye widebody. Same color. Cooling issues. Getting bought back by stellantis. They couldn't help me.
Since you ordered the car I'd give them a chance to fix it.
Build quality definitely suspect after 2019. Assuming you ordered your hellcat- schedule 7 as it’s referred- it’s inexcusable.
Hopefully its just a loose connector
I have had mulple hellcats, one gave me the same trouble with one in particular. Burn out a bcm every few months due to a loose fuse box under the hood. Loose from the factory.
What a pain in the butt. I’m sorry you’re going through this. Sounds like your challenger needs to go back to the assembly plant so they can disassemble and figure out the issue so no more Challengers or Chargers end up with the same issue. Especially since they are the last call.
Paycheck to paycheck people will never understand brother. I do not have any time to waste these days.
Elsa said it best: LET IT GO
Good luck, I'd send it back, electrical sucks.
wow sorry to hear that brother. Yeah i feel your pain on this. i know you love the car and dont wanna get rid of it. Yes in this case i would Def just give it back to the dealer and dont look back. you can always get a another one later on. used one or new you never know whats gonna be out here by Nov or Dec.
doesn’t mean it’s a lemon. it means yours is a lemon
Oh that makes sense 🤪
...... Yea, I think that conclusion was obvious..
Man I hear more and more 2023 issues, my 2021 charger redeye needed the friction spacers for the front clicking and minor issues at the end these are dodges
Maybe a can bus twisted pair is chaffing ground somewhere I had this happen took 14 hrs to find.
DO NOT give the car back. It’s an electrical component. It’s under warranty. Let them fix it. They of course want the car back so they fix it and make 20k on it. Your upset. Understandable. Worst time to make a decision is being emotional. It’s not a big deal and they don’t have to take your car apart.
I would do whatever it takes to keep that car
Long term Challenger! 😅😂🤣 Time to buy back that 1320!😎
Pretty color and set up , best going in my opinion
I have a 21 widebody scatpack and mines was doing the same thing they saying it was my aftermarket alarm but I don’t think so I had to take it to the dealership 4 different times
where you going
Looking original. Thinking of ceramic coating?
Even if you manage to get it fixed yourself due to wires being loose or not plugged in at all you should still give it back to dealership because what if you make it work fine but them something else happens afterwards...because if some things were already wrong Mayne something even worse will happen shortly
Return it to the dealer & have them find you one, if they can't tell them to up grade you to a ghost for your troubles.
Keep can’t be that difficult it will get fixed like u said wasn’t nun but 644 of em I got 1 keep it homie let them fix the problem
This has me a bit nervous. While mine is not a Redeye, I ordered a Jailbreak Hellcat Charger, and planned on trading in my 2017 Daytona 392 for it. I won't be able to afford to fix the Hellcat if it comes in with similar issues. I don't know what could be done if I've traded in my paid off car for one with issues and then be out 2 cars instead of one.
I'd give it back to the dealership and buy a used one that doesn't have any electrical problems.
If you keep it, it will aggravate the ... out of you.
Good luck beautiful vehicle
Give it back the problems will are just beginning
mine does the same thing with the key and my buddies does too same day and time
"White Rock Chrysler" must be impressed with your reviews! Or do you not work there any longer?😂😎
Damn and after you went to the plant to watch it get built.That does suck
Why wouldn’t you unplug the ecu, plug it back in and replace the battery?
Seems super quick and easy to eliminate a ton of probabilities.
Should’ve went ZL1 but best of luck brother 🤙🏾..
Well its under factory warranty. Make em fix it.
I'd have the dealer replace the pcm, bcm, reprogram and see if that will fix the car. If not send it back. You're gonna hate yourself if you keep it and it never gets fixed.
So the dealer can't find you another JB? They can't all be sold.
You can order another challenger all the way to the last day in July. I would return the car and place a new order.
Sorry to hear about that dodge should give you another hellcat totally free of charge all expenses taken care plus DMV expenses and anything else to transfer you into new hellcat that would be good business and for dodge the right thing to do it would make the company look good it’s it’s so hard to believe the Dodge would nickel and dime do you need another car from the company total expense taken care of by the company? That’s the only way if the company is a legitimate corporation
Trouble Code: Buy a Challenger Demon 170. Problem solved!😊😎
I feel your pain, my 22 redeye charger has alarm issues, when it goes off until it shuts off it sends me an email. In the course of two to three weeks I have ten emails from when the alarm has gone off without me nearby, when I am nearby I unlocked and relock the car to turn it off and it won’t send me an email so in total between 2-3 weeks I got 10 alarm activations that went unchecked and probably another 10-15 alarm activations I was there to deactivate them. Don’t know what to do, can’t replace it 🤷♂️
My 22 Challenger R/T Shaker had an issue with the blind spot detector and the alarm so I took it into the dealer they replaced the module and that fixed the issue, knock on wood haven’t had an issue with the alarm since.
@@thattallguy6731 what module did you replace?
I had a electrical issue with my 2016 camaro $$ I got rid of that car I understand where you coming from
Never buy anything that's not turn key. Unless you can fix it.
Smells like Lemons in here
Maybe look for dodge viper...
Seriously, You are overreacting a little I think. I have owned 2 of these now, a regular Hellcat I bought new in 2018, and my current REWBHC Challenger that I bought new in 2020. Between the two and 4 years of total ownership, I have had exactly TWO problems. The first was one of the electric motors associated with the door latching and unlatching went bad. I attribute that honestly to my kids, who slammed it on more than one occasion, but mainly from pulling hard as hell om the handle when NOT unlocked. It was in the shop 3 days, because the part took that long to get there. The 2nd was on the Redeye, and it was the AC system. One of the lines had a itty bitty tiny, and i mean tiny leak that took a year to leak to the point of not working. They filled it up, and by that time it was much larger and would leak out quickly. This is ONLY because the new refrigerant that they are using is absolutely corrosive. That has been confirmed and we will see many tens of thousands of cars having this problem across all of the brands. That took two trips to the dealer, the first for 2 days and the 2nd for a week as the part was delayed again. Both times were easy fixes, but this was during the COVID height and parts were very hard to get. That's the GRAND total of problems. The first car I put 35,000 miles on, the second I am now at 22,000.
I should also add that the second car was only stock for about 18 months. Since that point it is pushing 1000 wheel horsepower on E85 and has been flawless really. While the car is pretty heavily modified, it still has the stock block, stock internals, and stock supercharger unit, but the SC has been ported and polished by Jokerz Performance. The engine is tuned in it obviously, as-is the trans also. Those two tunes are not perfectly meshing together so my ET's are off from what they should be. Even with the trans not shifting exactly where it should and the shifts being pretty dramatic, it will still run the 1/4 mile at 9.3-9.5 seconds at 141 to 144 mph, and it does so with me having to pedal it every time at the 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. With the tunes in sync it would be a 9.0 car I think. Even with all that additional power and that many mods, the car is still dead-on reliable. I drive it all the time and would not hesitate to drive it across the country.
My whole point is this, your whole issue was a loose wiring connection that just took a long time to find, this is something that happens within ALL MAKES AND MODELS of new cars. It's just the facts. They make these cars as fast as possible and while quality control is very good, you are going to have a loose connection here or there due to the literally thousands upon thousands of wires and connections in just one car these days. Even if the connection worked fine when tested at the factory, 200 miles of driving can separate it enough to start malfunctioning. You have to keep in mind that this is not your dad's car, which likely had ONE main wiring harness with maybe 30 connections. Now there is probably 20 times more feet of wire in a new car and many hundreds more connections compared to what was in cars just 20 years ago. If it had not been a loose connection, it would have been a bad transmitter/receiver unit that detects these new keys, which would have been both cheap and easy to fix.
Send it back...been there done that lemon shit b4
Just drive a temporary beater while the dealer fixes it.
Take it back
I say let that find it , it may be the ECM
It’s under warranty though they should make it right.
I'd let it go. You shouldn't have to go through this with a brand new car.
Give the Car back to the Dealer...........
Too much of a problem
I’m having the same problem 😔
Damn my freightliner does the same thing
I'd ask fkr master tech and start case with corporate. That is a keeper. If you walk, someone else will fix this and laugh at the thought someone passed on this beast
DONT PANIC……make them fix it