How to wire a InkBird ITC 1000 for use in a keezer * BONUS* Wiring diagram included!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- The Inkbird ITC1000 is a great way to control a keezer or fermentation chamber. Wiring diagram available for download below.
Link to the diagram:
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Cheers to Jake's wife. Thanks to her wisdom, I get the video I need to wire my kegerator.
Your videos are extremely helpful and informative, I enjoy just viewing ... in fact, I might actually get started brewing . Tried it 36 years ago until one day when my wife and I got up Saturday morning and my 4 yr old son and 2 year old daughter were at the kitchen table trying to open a bottle of home brew. When she asked “ what are you guys doing?” They both responded...” we havin a beer”..., that was the end of that. We laughed too hard to chance that again
Hahaha.. that's funny!! 👍🍻
Just finished building a Keezer and used this wiring guide with one extra addition, I broke the brass tab connecting both outlets on the plug and ran another hot line for my PC fan. Thanks for the tips!
Nice! Good stuff!
Outstanding video! Wiring diagram included is freaking outstanding!! I don't brew but I wanted to learn how to use this controller. Thanks!
Thank you. Useful, clear instructions. That's exactly what I was looking for
Always the best how to videos! Cheers!
Thanks Ryan!! I try to do my best! 👍🍻
Easy to follow guide. I need to print the wiring diagram and I'm ready to go. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Exactly how I did mine... Well of course yours looks much tidier than mine did. Cheers 🍻
Lol yeah but I got to make it tidy for a tutorial. The important thing is yours works the same!! Cheers Paul! 👍🍻
Hey Brian. I love that you are making videos again.
Thanks Tim! I have missed making them for sure. Cheers! 👍🍻
Thank you for posting this... I had a different application and used heating circuit; nonetheless -- very clear and concise!
Thanks!! 👍🍻
One thing to note, the inkbird wiring diagram has two different versions that show the unit's power terminals reversed depending on which version you're looking at. I believe it actually works fine regardless of which way you wire it, since I wired it opposite this video and seems to work.
Yeah AC is pretty universal I'm assuming you're talking about that part.
A video showing how to program the unit and how to connect the heating element to the unit too , great video thanks
👍🍻
I learned to never put braid wire into a terminal like you did at 6:08. Always crimp a cap onto it. Otherwise there is the danger of overheating because of conduction problems in the connection.
Good tip thanks for sharing!
Did you ever make a video on how to wire this for heat?
Back at it!?!? Go to have ya back. Looking forward to more.
I'd love to see how you program the unit.
Sure thing! I have been dying to make more content. Glad you enjoyed! 👍🍻
Wouldn't we all !!!!! The manufacturers are obviously Chinese and do not have a clue but more importantly do not give a stuff about causing a great deal of confusion even amongst electricians.
Really great Brian! Thanks! :-)
Thanks for watchin Jonas! 👍🍻
Thanks for your Valued help. Essential You Tube. The makers do not seem to have seen the terminology
'Break on Rise' /Make on rise! in temperature of course. A good guess has no place in electrical work = bang. As you will know by your experience.
Thanks! 👍🍻
NEEDS A GROUND for EMF~! THANKS!
Thanks a lot great video! Do you think I can use it with an inverter fridge or it will mess the fridge up?
I'm not sure about that.
You mentioned that you would probably do a video where you used this for fermentation and that you would show both the heating and cooling side of things. Did you ever do that? This was good. I keep thinking that they're just switches and all I have to do is feed the hot wire through them. Am I mistaken?
Just to be clear, either outlet plug could be used for the keezer cord, correct? Without breaking the tab, you're switching both on/off?
I'm also assuming breaking the tab and running hot/neutral to one of the plugs from the heating side would give you both options?
Correct
HOW TO PROGRAM WOULD BE GOOD. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
Thanks!! Will add it to the list. Cheers!! 👍🍻
GREAT video! I am building my keezer and like your video only using cooling terminals so I have a stupid question. Is the other outlet the freezer isn't plugged into live only when the circuit is closed to turn the cooling on? I am hooking up fans on the inside of my keezer and need a second outlet and would like to run the wiring to the 2nd outlet but need the fans powered on and running 24/7.
You'd need to plug the fans into a always in connection.
HELLO BRIAN,
ANY VIDEO ON microcomputer temperature controller XM18K2 WIRING..?
Sorry I do not.
For a 12V application, the power would just be sent to a master fuse box/ battery, right?
For controlling a 12v device yes. They do make a 12 DC version as well. FYI. 👍🍻
Thanks again, Excellent build tutorial as always!
I'd recommend that you use the correct slot on your crimping tool, as the ratchet style stops when compressed enough/ properly.
Using the "blue" slot on the yellow connectors will cause strain on the aluminium ferrules. The fact that it jams when crimped is a good sign that you're using the wrong slot on the tool. If the tool's not color coded, the inner slot's for red, middle for blue and the outer one's for your yellow ferrules.
Yeah I know. It is a cheap pair and the yellow slot does it quite crimp them tight. (Harbor freight "stuff" lol)
Any comments from either of you on the gauge wiring you should be using both inside of the box and for the main power cord we add ?
Exact video i was looking for. Only thing that is missing is if you added a small computer fan in line.
You can certainly do that, or plug one into the other outlet on the plug so the fan would come on when the keezer did. Thanks for commenting! 👍🍻
Yes, plz video setup of the pid itself.
OK will do! Thanks for the comment! Cheers! 👍🍻
just burnt up two ITC's. As soon as I plugged them in they pop.
thank you so much for the video. The wiring diagram I've seen on 4 units bears no resemblance to the correct wiring your unit shows. Any potential danger regarding electricity is a no no as you know very well as per your knowledge to be able to give explicit instructions that are safe. As it happens I am using 24v DC max.
When there is heat involved it makes me wonder if fires have ensued because of the lack of both wiring and user instructions that should have been given with these units.
Having to look on You Tube to see all one needs to know about these units not least to 'get them to work' seems ridiculous. There are plenty of other manufacturers who are guilty of not issuing good instructions with there items sold through out the world but how do they get away with this complacent way of doing business?
That's a good question! I'm glad you found the video helpful! 👍🍻
Thanks buddy
A how to form the programming would be great.
Thanks Derek! Appreciate the comment! 👍🍻
hi ,god vidio but why do you need the recepticle?
You don't. I just don't like doing "destructive" modifications in case you ever wanted to switch it back to a freezer. Which of course you could just add a new plug...just me I guess..lol
I had a question I connected everything following the diagram you provided. Really helpful by the way. My question is when my probe reached the temperature I set it doesn’t power the plug to the freezer off so the freezer keeps cooling and then the inkbird tries to turn on the heat which I don’t have it connected. Not sure where I went wrong
That's normal. It will oscillate slightly. But it will naturism the temp with a few degrees. 👍🍻
So I set it at 38 degrees Fahrenheit once it reached that it kept going lower it reached 11 and never shut off
So maybe this is a dumb question, but what if you wanted to insulate your collar, could you just use the wire inside of the power cord instead of the whole cord? My thought is it would be easier to hide the wires behind the insulation instead of the cable
Sure you could hide it that way.
Short Circuited Brewers thanks for the reply! Keep up the awesome videos
Great video! i have had mine working for over a year, came in last week and it said -9, and kegs were frozen. I pulled the temp sensor out and it went to 70, let everythiing thaw, put it back in, everything fine for a week, now -9 again today. Any idea Whats broke?
Sounds like a bad controller. 👍🍻
Love the content you put out. One question though, why do you have the neutral wire to terminal 1 when the instructions for the stc show hot wire going to terminal 1?
There's no polarity on the device, so it really doesn't matter.
what is amazing is that no one shows what kind of power source they use for this kind of unit that also runs multiple fans, and a peltier module. any suggestions? trying to make a home made humidor
Power source is 120 volts. If the peltier and fans run at the same time you could plug them into the same outlet.
Great video once again. You make these things look so easy. I was looking to add a temp controller like this to my brew control panel for a fermentation chamber. Of course it would have to work independently of the key switch so that it would remain on while the rest of the panel was off. not sure if any of that is possible. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! You can certainly do that just wire it in before the switch. There is at least one (depending on your panel voltage) power wire you can connect to. It is as easy as I make it look just take your time. Just be sure that you unplug the main plug on your panel before you start doing any wiring. Cheers! 👍🍻
I can't find the link to download a copy of your wiring diagram. Can you post the link? Cheers!
It's in the video description.
Can you do a video on using the ink bird 1000 just using a extension cord no box just cord please I’m trying to do it this way please
The wiring is the same.
Can this be used with 240v/AC in Australia for power in and to run fridge?
If you get the 240v model yes.. This one is the 120v model.
It feels like there are a bunch of unstated assumptions about the overall wiring of the system like which set of wires plugs into the wall vs. into the unit. It just dives into connecting neutrals and hots without saying which and why. I bought a used keezer 4ish years ago, which recently got so cold it froze all 4 of my kegs. So, am attempting to replace the temperature controller/probe (apparently called an ITC) and am afraid I am more, not less confused now. Mine does not have a receptacle and it never really explains why you would want one. Maybe preface the video that this is for new-builds only? Will keep scouring the internet for that sweet spot between licensed electrician, I can read your mind, and yes in fact I do know what the black wire is.
Is this unit a replacement for the Ranco A12-701 that's used for the compressor on a commercial restaurant cooler, if so how would I wire that? This unit rapidly turns on and off when I connect the 2 wires that connected the A12-701 to the cooler. If not, can you tell me what digital unit I have to purchase to replace the Ranco A12-701?
I'm not sure about that.
Hi Brian. Great video. I just have one just have one question. I used relays on my STC. I was told that the unit is not strong enough to power a fridge. Why are you not using relays to divert mains power away from the STC? We have 220V.
Not sure about over where you are but our appliances like freezers and refrigerators generally only draw about 5 to 7 amps. The ITC switches are rated for 10 amps so there's plenty of overhead in my opinion. I'm not sure about the stc1000 but I imagine it's probably the same thing just rebranded by Inkbird. Cheers! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I am in South Africa.
OK. Any idea what the 220v fridge/freezers run as far as amperage draw?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers not sure. Trying to Google it but even the manufacturer site does not have that spec.
OK well at least you know your safe the easy you have it hooked up. 👍🍻
Once you do this modification can it ever be a freezer again? IOW can it get down to 0 F?
Yes this tutorial does not impact the freezer at all. The cord is still intact. The STC1000 is what is the thermostat control for the freezer. To use it as a freezer, unplug the freezer from the outlet shown in the tutorial and plug it directly into the wall... Freezer again! 👍🍻
I am looking to replace my beer fridge with a keezer simply because it is starting to die. This is exactly what I was looking to do, and thank you for the additional wiring diagram as that is something that I have always been a bit worried about messing stuff up. I did hear you mention that you were thinking about using the heating side for a temp controlled fermentation chamber. Is that something that you are still looking at doing? I am curious as to what you would be using for the heating portion of the project. Also do you recommend using some sort of insulation to cover the hole for the box or around the wood portion of the keezer collar to assist with keeping leaks down to a minimum?
You can line the wood with foam. The heating portion I would use a small space heater. If I get a chance I'll try to get the other portion out.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I have so many ideas of things to do, but not the wallet to support them lol. Even to the point of doing a similar wiring, but doing a double outlet so that a circulation fan and a mini dehumidifier could also get power without the need for another extension cord for supplemental power. Also routing in a groove on the collar to run the power lines to the back. Love watching your videos. I will slowly be getting all the stuff to make my brew setup more efficient.
Now I just need a keezer.
Yeah... You got a fancy kegerator.. Lol cheers Larry! 👍🍻
wiring diagram on the unit is not the same as the wiring diagram in the package insert! so confusing.
Hey Brian, what gauge extension cord are you using? Thanks for the video!
Michael Dat Nguyen 14 gauge is fine the max the controller can handle is 10 amps. You’re welcome! 👍🍻
Hi Brian! Great video as always. I am in the process of building a glycol chiller from a window air conditioner. What are your thoughts on this controller handling the load through the Inkbird relay? The A/C unit draws 6 amps total and I think the Inkbird 1000 is rated for 10 amps but that is more than likely a rating for just amp load and not running a compressor or fan motor. I am worried about back EMF. I thought about buying an inkbird and an SSR to put the load through. Just picking your brain.! Cheers
No problem Glad you found it helpful. I kind of agree with you I think I would use the ink bird to trigger a relay. I don't know that you need to go with an SSR quite honestly I would probably just use a mechanical relay because you're not cycling on and off that much. There's a lot of cheap stuff you can purchase off of Amazon that would do the trick. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Reading the information about the controller it does say that for cooling there is programming for compressor delay but I cant find anything about what type of load (inductive vs resistive). Funny thing is the price for a mechanical contactor is more than the inkbird. lol. Cheers!
@@CanadianBrewingChannel haha that is pretty funny. I'm pretty sure the heating and cooling circuits will handle 10 amps individually. You obviously wouldn't have them both running at the same time.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers As an HVAC mechanic I am being more cautious than I probably need to be. I am recording the build and will put it on my channel in a week or so. In the middle of a brew right now! Cheers.
@@CanadianBrewingChannel nice I'll be looking out for it! 👍🍻
What are the Settings on the itc1000f. You did not showed us that.
I did not. I'll have to make another video.
Any comments on what gauge wire we should be using? Does it matter? I’m reusing PC power cords, which normally run 600W+ for a computer. That enough?
That's fine. Most appliances are run on 14ga I think the ink bird is rated for 10 amps.
Short Circuited Brewers thanks for the quick reply!
Really the only ones we’d worry about anyhow would be the main cord going to the wall and the white/black power into the inkbird - ya? The wires you colored with a sharpie don’t really have have much going through them and just serve as a communication for the switch - correct?
Correct
Hi, is it possible to have a PIC controller change between temperatures? Lets say the temeperature should be 200. As soon as it reaches 200 it should drop down to 190. When 190 has been reached, it should raise to 200, drop to 190 and so on.
Sort of.. You would just have set the differential to 10 degrees, and it would heat up and then cool down in a cycle. Out of curiosity, why are you wanting to use it that way?
Short Circuited Brewers i would use this for a pizza oven. I would like to have the heater already heating while putting the pizza into the oven. Under differential „P“ my manual says 0.01S/degree Celsius. Is that the correct setting to adjust?
It should be the DS setting. What model do you have this one does not have a "P" In the settings
Short Circuited Brewers i‘ve to the ITC 1000VH which should be similar to the ITC 100
Found the manual.. Yes P is the value.. Set it to 10 and that should work.
Am I correct in understanding that the second plug is a dead plug (unconnected)? If so, would it be too much for the wires to handle to make the second plug hot? I have a circulation fan I also want to connect to the keezer. Cheers!
As long as the total draw did kit exceed 10 amps you would be fine. The idea was to connect the second plug to the "heat" side of the inkbird and use it for heating as well.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks, the fan is only 12v. So I don't think that would impact it, but I really wasn't sure. Now I think I have to get some bigger butt connectors :)
@@Sirconnor9292 you have a power supply for the fan right?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers The power cord is directly connected to the fan, it would only need to be plugged in to operate.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers This is what I got. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZRKTBZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why don't you show the setup for controller? The most important part of such a long video?
Another great video! Nothing to do with the video but have you found a alternative replacement temp sensor for the ITC1000? I've found that to be the weak part of this setup.
It is a thermistor.. Might be able to find a replacement?
Am I missing something? How does this control the temp of the freezer? Were the extension cords suppose to connect to the freezer?
Yes that is correct it goes between the wall plug and the freezer cord. The temp probe stays inside the freezer to read the internal temp.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers so I'll be plugging the freezer itself into one of those outlets and an extension cord will run from the wall to the other?
@@leetledrummerboy yes that's correct.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers wow, on an older post i didn't expect you to get back to me at all, nevermind so quickly. Thanks, you're the best!
@@leetledrummerboy haha I try to answer all my comments. Let me know if you have any other questions. 🍻👍
I misplaced the screw that holds in the back plate. Any idea on the size/length so I can replace it?
I can check and let you know.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you!! I heard it was a #4 pan head x 1/4" but the internal threads look like something finer than a sheet metal screw. Maybe a 4-40 screw?
That is the correct size or VERY close to it. Should work fine.
forget about it ,,u don't need it,,, your rent a car lost a hub cap,, You Gona take it back to the office? get a life,, U all need to get a life
Hi Guys: PLEASE HELP My controller is working fine cooling and heating, however i cant get into the settings to change the temp setting.I hold the (S) button in for 3 or more sec but nothing happens. ANY ADVICE
thanks.
Sounds like a defective controller? Is it under warranty?
What is the use of the heating function?
Hey Brian, great video. Thanks for making it. I’ve tripled checked my wiring, and I still can’t seem to get it to work. When I plug the power in for the ITC it turns on then turns right back off. The only difference between my setup and yours is I’m using a GFCI. Any thoughts on a fix?
Sounds like a faulty stc. Does it trip the gfci?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers no it doesn’t. I’ll try another one.
@@ryanhenderson753 that's my best guess.
I think I’m missing something. What happen if I want to connect both, heating and cooling.
I did not show that. I am going to do a follow up on that in another video. Coming soon! if you know what I am talking about, you can remove the connection between the terminals on the plug and wire the cooling to one plug and the heating to the other.
Please show this update soon!! Working on mine right now
Will do!
Great video! Iv enjoyed your other channel as well. I noticed the bandaid was on after the wire stripping lol.... I would love to see the STC used in Fermentation Chamber and any other things you can use it for. Can you use this the same as the Johnson A19 or A419 with a RIMS tube? I’m not sure of the Watts (output) on the STC? The Johnson can support up to 1,500 Watts I believe?!? Thanks for the Vlogs Cheers
LOL this video was actually shot over several days. Irie shot several of the wiring Parts because I wasn't happy with how they showed on the camera. The ITC is only rated for 10 amps in the switches and 1500 watts would exceed that so I would say you have to put a relay in between that would handle that amount of current. Thanks for watching and commenting!! 👍🍻
Can I use this with a 12v system for my sap pump?
You can but you would need to send the 12volt to the ink bird and back out again to use it.
I would also like to add a 12v a ppliance to the set-up (a fan in my case). Would it not be possible to add a stepdown transformer and run the resulting power wires to the freezer outlet instead of going via the inkbird?
Sure you could do that. I would probably recommend running your fan all the time though. If you don't need heating you could wire on of the outlets to have constant power and run it that way. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the quick reply. I would definitely like to have it running all the time, but worry that kind of wiring might be a bit advanced for me ha. I guess I can always just run the fan wire through the back of the collar and reattach the plug at the back. Not anywhere near as neat as your solution. If it isn't too much trouble, how would I go about giving the other outlet constant power without the freezer also working constantly. Or does the inkbird switch take care of that? Thanks!
@@jameshilton2896 shoot me an email at Brian@shortcircuitedbrewers.com it will be easier to explain with some pictures. 👍🍻
Great having you back Brian!
I recommend all to use these crimp terminals to make the wires tidy in the connectors. Link for connectors and tool are attached. Have a great weekend!
Connectors:
www.ebay.com/itm/Useful-800Pcs-Wire-Copper-Crimp-Connector-Insulated-Cord-Terminal-AWG-22-10-TSUS/123347432321?hash=item1cb8147381:g:1jAAAOSwPCVX-7~C:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
Tool:
www.ebay.com/itm/0-08-6mm2-Terminal-Crimping-Tool-Bootlace-Ferrule-Crimper-Cord-Wire-End-Sleeves/152007949212?hash=item2364613b9c:g:xVoAAOSwn-tZJpbD:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
Thanks Thomas! I do need to get some better crimpers because those are cheap ones that I bought. As someone else pointed out I'm using a smaller jaw for the yellow connectors because the yellow slot doesn't crimp them as well. Are you putting out some more videos on all the cool stuff you got going on over there? I've been watching your Instagram you got some pretty neat stuff!