Every keezer build video has the same advice about the hinges springing out. The hinges are designed so that you can loosen the screws slightly, open the top and then lift the hinges over the screws whilst they are still attached to the freezer.
a little pro tip from someone who works in environmental science... put the temperature probe in a jar of water or oil... much more accurate temperature reading and prevents the machine from starting up unnecessarily
Great instructional video. The only thing I would add is some stain or paint for the collar. If it's going to sit for a few days while the adhesive cures, why not make it look pretty, too?
Cody, the video's host and asst. manager at NB Minneapolis added this moments later: "It's called Lexel - a silicone alternative. I chose it because it worked at low temps, and I was building mine on the porch in the winter. Also liked it because it worked on both plastic and wood, which we needed."
Only modification that I would recommend is to make the beer line 10 feet or so. At 4 feet I was getting all foam, saw Larry's solution on "beer n bbq by larry" and I just implemented it a few days ago and now I'm getting perfect pours for about $2 more worth of tubing.
Some other tips for next build/guide: Please use some dressing grade timber next build, your seal is going to be better on something smooth rather than that framing timber. Do the finishing work before you silicone it down. And please do not tell people to goto their hardware store for cuts; yes we offer it, but we hate you for it. Thanks for the video. I’m so very keen to build one. Your voice over is 10/10
If you cut the two side pieces with a taper from front to back you do not have to remove the top or change the hinges. If you want to return it to use as a freezer just remove the wedge with the taps in it.
I went to Home Depot in search of a solution and found some 1/2" by 3" pieces of metal with four screw holes pre-drilled. I used them to attach the collar to the body of the freezer with sheet metal screws (for the freezer side) and 1 1/4" drywall screws (for the collar side). Instead of the silicone sealant, I used rubber door/window weatherstripping. Since I'm clamping the collar down, it seals nicely. Thanks for putting this video up. It sure made the job a lot easier!
Kevin, you'll want to use a thermostat. I use the Johnson Controls Refrigerator Thermostat sold by NB. The sensing probe goes into the freezer and the freezer plugs into the thermostat then the thermostat plugs into the wall. You set the temperature on the thermostat and it will turn on and off the freezer to maintain that temperature. Works great.
THIS IS AWESOME! I just got my taps and kegs for Christmas, and I have a small, two keg, freezer I've been planning to modify. This is a MUCH better plan than I had.
I made a similar comment elsewhere, but the control unit they use will shut off power to the freezer when the temp falls within the desired range. Similar to how a timer on your living room lamp will turn off the lamp at certain times, this will shut off power to the freezer at certain temperatures.
Great video, guys! Looks like a clean way to build this without allowing for outside interference. The biggest issue with my Keggerator is that I drilled through the door, and every time I open a door it pulls kegs around and is a cluttered mess. Should have watched this video first!
I just finished building mine. I ran into a few issues along the way and thought I'd share my experience. First, I don't have a radial arm saw. I made all the cuts for the collar by hand with a fine-tooth saw. It's next to impossible to make your cuts perfectly straight. Unless you use a mitre box or have some other way of assuring perfectly straight, 90 degree cuts, your collar will not sit level on top of the freezer.
I applied my wood filler/putty on the inside joints and went around the inner base with my adhesive. Like they say there are many ways and that was mine.
Interesting.. But why not use plastic lumber, like Versatex or Trex ? You could use 2 pieces of thinner width 1/2 wood try 1/2 trim sandwiched between 1/2 insulating foam. Glue it all together than attaching to your keezer. Just a thought. Wood can get moldy from moisture. The plastic trim is awesome.
I like the idea. But, why not? Well " ... Like most things in home brewing there's more than one way to do this porject .... we're just going to show you one way to get it done ... " 0:28
***** ~ Fine. Hut you must agree Versatex or Tree, would last longer not grow mold like the wood... & Foam Sandwich between 2 1/2 " Sheets of Plastic would be better.. they use it on Houses & commercial buildings + Marie Applications. JUST SAYING IT COULD HAVE BEEN MORE ENERGY EFFICIENT! NO MOLD.. NEATER CLEANER WITH VERSATEX & Foam..
You stain the wood and seal it with polyurethane. We have had ours well over a year. No mold. Temperature in kegerator is 33 degrees. Besides, no matter what you build, you still have to disassemble the taps and clean them. We simply wipe down the inside as well. We attached purs with a bead of Liquid nails and caulked the joint as well. The lid seals fine. We know this because the unit is housed in an outside man cave that usually is not air conditioned and is humid. Never any condensation around the lid area or mold. Normal wood is fine.
Chest freezers are easier to drill through the top as there are no freon lines in the lid. Main issue is switching kegs, a longer line would take care of that and the benefit is having your drip tray up top with the tap, not hanging out on the side (oh also need a tap post). Nice plans though.
Useful vid, a couple suggestions: 1) You don' show how to connect the CO2 canister to the distributor. Compounding the problem in the shots where you show this connection, your arm is in the way, so you can't see how you connected it. 2) Why use a barbed connect for the liquid line and an mfl for the gas side? Barbed are harder to clean. I use the MFL for the liquid, so I can disassemble and clean and a barb for the gas side, since you don't need to clean it.
Could you do this just a beer line to a button pour spout thingy without making a collar and whatnot? Just open the freezer door grab the line and pour a beer? That would essentially just need a freezer and an inkbird making a basic refrigerator, but I don’t see anyone ever doing this. It cuts out all of the building. The only downside Is you’d have to open the door anytime you want a beer which might mess up the temp and cause it to turn on and off more frequently with the Inkbird.
Usually those sprung hinges will have a hole where you can insert a allan key, drill bit, or piece of stiff wire to take the spring pressure without having to fight it when you're removing/installing it. If not just drill one appropriately.
Great Video, thank you! I have a couple of questions if you don't mind: 1. Is the Stout line hooked up differently than the other 5 main lines? Or, did you just put it on the side to dedicate it to stouts and identify it? 2. Are there advantages other than space to keep your CO2 tank in or out of the freezer? Will it be affected if it is outside and it's in very high temperatures during the summer? 3. Do you also run star san through the lines after they're cleaned with pbw? Thanks!
If:the video author can reply, that would be great and/or anyone else who knows the answer to my question below: When using a freezer this way as a keezer, does this cause any bad effects to freezer parts (compressor etc). Afterall a freezer is designed to operate in the -20degF deep freeze range so when adding a controller to only go as high as 40-45 degF (similar to fridge type temps) was wondering if any issues to be aware of ..if any. Thanks for truly a great video!
don't *need* a buddy for the hinges (i drink alone?)... just get saran wrap ( pallet wrap ) and give a tight wrap around the whole thing, then take the screws out through it.
One way you can determine is by turning on your freezer and seeing where there is condensation on the inside. Wherever there is condensation theirs also likely a cooling line. Just a tip i picked up somewhere.
It looks like they're using an external control unit that controls the power to the freezer. Once the probe hits the desired temperature, the control unit shuts off power to the freezer. You can see the plug that goes into the wall has an extra plug coming out of it.
Absolutely awesome video. I'm going to build one of these in the next couple of weeks and this video will definitely be my go-to video for the keezer. Thank you NB!
Freezer compressors are designed to operate at a much lower temp. Using at a higher temp will eventually burn out compressor. Also if you mount drain pan to freezer front panel it's possible that a freon line may be damaged.
alright, so not all lumber you get at the hardware store is gonna be perfectly smooth. you could have some sealing problems. if you're keeping your freezer in the garage or the storage area is just hot you could have some problems. The lid to most freezer has a gasket that uses magnets to seal itself to the body of the freezer to keep a tight fit. kinda hard for magnets to stick to wood. If your already set on making a "keezer". try to utilize the lid as your mounting for any taps. you can use a tower or make a box out of wood, metal, or something you might have laying around the house and use the parts they listed for the beer taps. obviously allow for enough space to open the lid without damaging anything. the freezer in this video looks great. But may not work for you. Cheers.
im gonna use a redwood 2x4 for mine ,also my taps are gonna stick out a little further.- And im gonna build a base undernearth,outta 2x10 and plywood so it will be off the ground
Thinking of adapting this for a home bar - could I run the lines out of the faucet holes you drilled, provided they're sealed round the edges to keep the freezer working? Then connect to 'traditional' bar style pull faucets?
Love this Video Man! But can I mount my taps on top and turn the lid in to a counter? All in all I Especially love how to tell that YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR LINES REGULARLY which to me is Monthly. Most places I've had beer don't even know your suppose to do that and that's why they lose business or when they clean there lines they don't properly flush the lines and I sometimes get soapy beer. Love the Video though!!!
What about attaching the drip tray with an adhesive instead of drilling? No worries about hitting lines and the ability to move it, perhaps... good luck!
Has anyone tried this with an upright or mini frdge/freezer? Fastening and supporting the wood would be an issue, but it would be easier than carving out all the innards.
Cody, nice video, well done!! I am currently brewing my very first batch. American Ale for first try. Beer smelled and tasted wonderful on bottling day. Going to drink first bottle next week, but condition the remaining for another three weeks. Learning a ton of info. Going to brew my own spirits today...not gonna say what kind. :) Hope to see you @ NB someday. Miss you brother! (Dennis - M&B)
ok fella's looks like I am not the only one to notice that at the point where in the video you mention a temp control unit and all we see is a thermostat end ...............can you do or suggest a video of an install of a temp control unit to a freezer Thanks guys
started this build last night..got all the wood cut and perfectly lined up using 2x4 ..then noticed the hinge doesnt match! going to get larger 2x6 and mount entire hinge to wood
Those are the large grain bags we use for bagging malt for customers at both our retail locations and online orders. Not sure how to source them a la carte. I'm sure a gardening and home supply store would have some similar that you could dual purpose for this.
Hello there! Measure the height of the board according to the screws on the back. Where did you measure this and how many cm was it? Should it be determined by the distance between two screws? Thank you
This is s great video!...but....how to you regulate temperature control? Obviously we don't want temperatures below 3-4 degrees C in the keezer...are most/all chest freezers capable of holding temeratures as high as 8-10 degrees C (required for most ales)?
Great vid....regarding the drip tray....How do you know where to drill versus not to drill to avoid hitting your cooling lines. I have a 7.2 CU GE ....I want to add a drip tray but magnets wont work...I am scared to death of drilling and hitting a line - rendering my whole project useless. Any Tips?!? Thanks
Freezers will freeze the beer if you don't use a temperature controller that allows you to keep the temperature in the freezer at above-freezing/serving temperatures. You could totally use an upright fridge as a keezer, but most people like the horizontal deep freezers because they fit a lot more kegs (or even fermenters). www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-dual-stage-temp-controller
Keezer (made out of freezer), Kegerator (made out of a fridge). They both work just fine, its up to you. However, the freezer can reach a lower temperature which I find interesting and has much more space for the kegs. The only extra component you would have to buy for the freezer is the temperature controller which is not that expensive, then you can set as low as -1C depending how alcoholic the beer is.
I'm a bit late here but you guys just emailed me with this information so I'm here now. Being new to brewing and haven't kegged yet, don't different beers like to be at different pressures? Meaning, having 1 set PSI on the CO2 could have some beers running flat and some over carbonated, right? Is there any reason you couldn't have a regulator for each line to set it to the ideal pressure for each tap?
Hey Great Project. I wondering if its always necessary to have to deal with wooden column, why not drill the top part of the freezer coz I doubt there any cooling wire. thanks
In a lot of posts on the subject I've seen on other sites the freezer is too short inside to house the kegs, so it became standard practice to make the extra space.
Are you asking if you could use this kegerator setup (or something like it) to serve beer at a pub? If so, I don't see why not. Although a more commercial scale setup might be preferred and move a higher quantity of beer quicker and more efficiently. But there are definitely nanobrewery taprooms that have smaller setups like this one.
question... do you need a freezer in which you are able to adjust the temperature, or would the temperature control unit do that for you? i have a chest freezer that you can't set the temp on. you just plug it in, and it's cold. i'm wondering if the external temp control unit adjusts the temperature for you.
Jamie, it would be pretty easy to dress this "basic construction" up and add your own style. Beside, for the price, and the pride of having built your own, you can't go wrong with this design, or a variant that works best for you. How about using a black freezer and some stainless over the wood?
Silicone would work.... ask your hardware store with plastic/vinyl-to-wood adhesive they suggest. Explain your project and I'm sure they'd love to help - then come share in the final product!
I bought some parts from you guys for this project. The swivel nuts do not seem airtight. by which I mean the tailpiece inside the nut doesn't have a gasket or anything. Is this ok?
@@NorthernBrewerTV thank you for the reply. Sorry i'm late the whole basement remodeling came to a stand still for a bit. The 5-8f will be outside of the keezer.
You would use a temperature controller such as our Dual Stage Temperature Controller: www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-dual-stage-temp-controller
When you drill a hole in the collar to run the c02 line to the outside, how do you seal the hole so air doesn't escape? Do you just fasten the tube in place with caulk, or is there a way to seal it where you can still take the tube out easily?
Love the vid making my own now just finished building a thermostat controller. One question tho would gear clamps work just as well as odicer clamps???
This video from 9 years ago has better quality than most youtube videos these days
Every keezer build video has the same advice about the hinges springing out. The hinges are designed so that you can loosen the screws slightly, open the top and then lift the hinges over the screws whilst they are still attached to the freezer.
I was going to suggest the same thing, but you beat me to it. Those keyholes on the hinge are designed exactly for that.
True. As I use freezers for my ice business, I have to constantly replace these but have never had that issue as I do it as you explained👍
a little pro tip from someone who works in environmental science... put the temperature probe in a jar of water or oil... much more accurate temperature reading and prevents the machine from starting up unnecessarily
Great instructional video. The only thing I would add is some stain or paint for the collar. If it's going to sit for a few days while the adhesive cures, why not make it look pretty, too?
Cody, the video's host and asst. manager at NB Minneapolis added this moments later:
"It's called Lexel - a silicone alternative. I chose it because it worked at low temps, and I was building mine on the porch in the winter. Also liked it because it worked on both plastic and wood, which we needed."
Only modification that I would recommend is to make the beer line 10 feet or so. At 4 feet I was getting all foam, saw Larry's solution on "beer n bbq by larry" and I just implemented it a few days ago and now I'm getting perfect pours for about $2 more worth of tubing.
Good suggestion for an updated video. Cheers to you and definitely cheers to Beer & BBQ by Larry... love his channel!
Some other tips for next build/guide: Please use some dressing grade timber next build, your seal is going to be better on something smooth rather than that framing timber. Do the finishing work before you silicone it down. And please do not tell people to goto their hardware store for cuts; yes we offer it, but we hate you for it. Thanks for the video. I’m so very keen to build one. Your voice over is 10/10
If you cut the two side pieces with a taper from front to back you do not have to remove the top or change the hinges. If you want to return it to use as a freezer just remove the wedge with the taps in it.
I went to Home Depot in search of a solution and found some 1/2" by 3" pieces of metal with four screw holes pre-drilled. I used them to attach the collar to the body of the freezer with sheet metal screws (for the freezer side) and 1 1/4" drywall screws (for the collar side).
Instead of the silicone sealant, I used rubber door/window weatherstripping. Since I'm clamping the collar down, it seals nicely.
Thanks for putting this video up. It sure made the job a lot easier!
A coating of varnish on the top of the collar will help it seal better.
Great video with lots of tips, looking forward to building one someday. Thanks for sharing!
Another thing I would add for aesthetics is get a nicer quality 2x4 for the collar and stain it. With a black freezer it would look really good
Enjoyed watching this. I brewed my own beer back in the 1970's.👍🍺
Kevin, you'll want to use a thermostat. I use the Johnson Controls Refrigerator Thermostat sold by NB. The sensing probe goes into the freezer and the freezer plugs into the thermostat then the thermostat plugs into the wall. You set the temperature on the thermostat and it will turn on and off the freezer to maintain that temperature. Works great.
What did you set the temp control on the freezer to use the johnson control?
THIS IS AWESOME! I just got my taps and kegs for Christmas, and I have a small, two keg, freezer I've been planning to modify. This is a MUCH better plan than I had.
Thanks for putting this together. It's not exactly the one I would like to build, but definitely gives me the ideas to make that happen.
I made a similar comment elsewhere, but the control unit they use will shut off power to the freezer when the temp falls within the desired range. Similar to how a timer on your living room lamp will turn off the lamp at certain times, this will shut off power to the freezer at certain temperatures.
Great video, guys! Looks like a clean way to build this without allowing for outside interference. The biggest issue with my Keggerator is that I drilled through the door, and every time I open a door it pulls kegs around and is a cluttered mess. Should have watched this video first!
Use pricks ROCK I’ve had an over foaming problem from go ta yo, you yanks are a great help thanks. From a over gased Aussie
I just finished building mine. I ran into a few issues along the way and thought I'd share my experience.
First, I don't have a radial arm saw. I made all the cuts for the collar by hand with a fine-tooth saw. It's next to impossible to make your cuts perfectly straight. Unless you use a mitre box or have some other way of assuring perfectly straight, 90 degree cuts, your collar will not sit level on top of the freezer.
I applied my wood filler/putty on the inside joints and went around the inner base with my adhesive. Like they say there are many ways and that was mine.
Interesting.. But why not use plastic lumber, like Versatex or Trex ? You could use 2 pieces of thinner width 1/2 wood try 1/2 trim sandwiched between 1/2 insulating foam. Glue it all together than attaching to your keezer. Just a thought. Wood can get moldy from moisture. The plastic trim is awesome.
I like the idea. But, why not? Well " ... Like most things in home brewing there's more than one way to do this porject .... we're just going to show you one way to get it done ... " 0:28
***** ~ Fine. Hut you must agree Versatex or Tree, would last longer not grow mold like the wood... & Foam Sandwich between 2 1/2 " Sheets of Plastic would be better.. they use it on Houses & commercial buildings + Marie Applications.
JUST SAYING IT COULD HAVE BEEN MORE ENERGY EFFICIENT! NO MOLD.. NEATER CLEANER WITH VERSATEX & Foam..
You stain the wood and seal it with polyurethane. We have had ours well over a year. No mold. Temperature in kegerator is 33 degrees. Besides, no matter what you build, you still have to disassemble the taps and clean them. We simply wipe down the inside as well. We attached purs with a bead of Liquid nails and caulked the joint as well. The lid seals fine. We know this because the unit is housed in an outside man cave that usually is not air conditioned and is humid. Never any condensation around the lid area or mold. Normal wood is fine.
Chest freezers are easier to drill through the top as there are no freon lines in the lid. Main issue is switching kegs, a longer line would take care of that and the benefit is having your drip tray up top with the tap, not hanging out on the side (oh also need a tap post). Nice plans though.
I suggest varnish the timber so that it becomes a sealed surface that can be easily cleaned
Gonna put one of these in my garage in my future home. Right next to my custom home brew station.
Useful vid, a couple suggestions:
1) You don' show how to connect the CO2 canister to the distributor. Compounding the problem in the shots where you show this connection, your arm is in the way, so you can't see how you connected it.
2) Why use a barbed connect for the liquid line and an mfl for the gas side? Barbed are harder to clean. I use the MFL for the liquid, so I can disassemble and clean and a barb for the gas side, since you don't need to clean it.
best video yet. rebuilding a kegerator couldnt find anything in the conversion of parts.
Don't forget to add the small washers in when hooking up the manifold. @ 7:21.
Could you do this just a beer line to a button pour spout thingy without making a collar and whatnot? Just open the freezer door grab the line and pour a beer? That would essentially just need a freezer and an inkbird making a basic refrigerator, but I don’t see anyone ever doing this. It cuts out all of the building. The only downside Is you’d have to open the door anytime you want a beer which might mess up the temp and cause it to turn on and off more frequently with the Inkbird.
For sure. Just get yourself a server line tap for each keg and save yourself all the stress of the build-out.
Usually those sprung hinges will have a hole where you can insert a allan key, drill bit, or piece of stiff wire to take the spring pressure without having to fight it when you're removing/installing it. If not just drill one appropriately.
Great Video, thank you! I have a couple of questions if you don't mind: 1. Is the Stout line hooked up differently than the other 5 main lines? Or, did you just put it on the side to dedicate it to stouts and identify it? 2. Are there advantages other than space to keep your CO2 tank in or out of the freezer? Will it be affected if it is outside and it's in very high temperatures during the summer? 3. Do you also run star san through the lines after they're cleaned with pbw? Thanks!
Great Video. But need you to offer more info on the temperature control unit please.
If:the video author can reply, that would be great and/or anyone else who knows the answer to my question below:
When using a freezer this way as a keezer, does this cause any bad effects to freezer parts (compressor etc).
Afterall a freezer is designed to operate in the -20degF deep freeze range so when adding a controller to only go as high as 40-45 degF (similar to fridge type temps) was wondering if any issues to be aware of ..if any.
Thanks for truly a great video!
don't *need* a buddy for the hinges (i drink alone?)... just get saran wrap ( pallet wrap ) and give a tight wrap around the whole thing, then take the screws out through it.
ratchet strap also works well I imagine
Rob R can also loosen screws on both hinges, and then slide hinge up one at a time.
can also loosen screw, anticipate spring back and dodge
You need to buy a temperature controller (Johnson brand is good) to keep the beer at the 39-43 F that most prefer.
One way you can determine is by turning on your freezer and seeing where there is condensation on the inside. Wherever there is condensation theirs also likely a cooling line. Just a tip i picked up somewhere.
I also noticed most chest freezers even ones with full coil wraps around all sides that they tend to not have any coils in the top few inches.
I'll be doing this project this weekend. I can't wait!
It looks like they're using an external control unit that controls the power to the freezer. Once the probe hits the desired temperature, the control unit shuts off power to the freezer. You can see the plug that goes into the wall has an extra plug coming out of it.
Just a little hint on the hinge.... pass a nail in the slot provided behind the hinge... this will keep you safe. it will not move or "pop" on you...
Nicely done. Gotta get this done before I do my summer brewing sessions.
Absolutely awesome video. I'm going to build one of these in the next couple of weeks and this video will definitely be my go-to video for the keezer. Thank you NB!
Freezer compressors are designed to operate at a much lower temp. Using at a higher temp will eventually burn out compressor. Also if you mount drain pan to freezer front panel it's possible that a freon line may be damaged.
as long as there is a temperature control to maintain temp and prevent short cycling, the compressor will be fine
I was thinking the same thing. Easier to just install a tap tower (or twin tap tower) with longer lines inside. Much simpler build.
alright, so not all lumber you get at the hardware store is gonna be perfectly smooth. you could have some sealing problems. if you're keeping your freezer in the garage or the storage area is just hot you could have some problems. The lid to most freezer has a gasket that uses magnets to seal itself to the body of the freezer to keep a tight fit. kinda hard for magnets to stick to wood. If your already set on making a "keezer". try to utilize the lid as your mounting for any taps. you can use a tower or make a box out of wood, metal, or something you might have laying around the house and use the parts they listed for the beer taps. obviously allow for enough space to open the lid without damaging anything. the freezer in this video looks great. But may not work for you. Cheers.
work buddies they're also called clamps
im gonna use a redwood 2x4 for mine ,also my taps are gonna stick out a little further.- And im gonna build a base undernearth,outta 2x10 and plywood so it will be off the ground
Thinking of adapting this for a home bar - could I run the lines out of the faucet holes you drilled, provided they're sealed round the edges to keep the freezer working? Then connect to 'traditional' bar style pull faucets?
Yeah
Love this Video Man! But can I mount my taps on top and turn the lid in to a counter? All in all I Especially love how to tell that YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR LINES REGULARLY which to me is Monthly. Most places I've had beer don't even know your suppose to do that and that's why they lose business or when they clean there lines they don't properly flush the lines and I sometimes get soapy beer. Love the Video though!!!
yes... excellent video... great narrative quick to the point and very informative thanks
just finished mine...i just hope the silicone sealant is reliable! thanks for posting this..
That hinge is EXCLENTLY placed to nail you right in the nards
What about attaching the drip tray with an adhesive instead of drilling? No worries about hitting lines and the ability to move it, perhaps... good luck!
Amazing!
Awesome! Don't forget to share now.
How well is the new seal on the freezer then, now that the lid rests on the wood?
Has anyone tried this with an upright or mini frdge/freezer? Fastening and supporting the wood would be an issue, but it would be easier than carving out all the innards.
Good video
I would suggest using glue or double sided tape. Carpet tape might work good for a drip tray as it holds a lot.
Cody, nice video, well done!! I am currently brewing my very first batch. American Ale for first try. Beer smelled and tasted wonderful on bottling day. Going to drink first bottle next week, but condition the remaining for another three weeks. Learning a ton of info. Going to brew my own spirits today...not gonna say what kind. :) Hope to see you @ NB someday. Miss you brother! (Dennis - M&B)
Does it matter if it's a 3/8" OD Hose Barb Connections or needs to be a the 1/4"
I don't see how only 5ft of beverage line is enough... I had to have 10ft at 12 psi for no foam and over carb beer.
ok fella's looks like I am not the only one to notice that at the point where in the video you mention a temp control unit and all we see is a thermostat end ...............can you do or suggest a video of an install of a temp control unit to a freezer
Thanks guys
started this build last night..got all the wood cut and perfectly lined up using 2x4 ..then noticed the hinge doesnt match! going to get larger 2x6 and mount entire hinge to wood
I have to know where you found those plastic bags for your kegs! Those would make clean up so much easier. Please let me know.
Those are the large grain bags we use for bagging malt for customers at both our retail locations and online orders. Not sure how to source them a la carte. I'm sure a gardening and home supply store would have some similar that you could dual purpose for this.
Hello there! Measure the height of the board according to the screws on the back. Where did you measure this and how many cm was it? Should it be determined by the distance between two screws? Thank you
I helps to drill small pilot holes to avoid spitting.
What if I want to drill a hole to put a tower tap instead?
This is s great video!...but....how to you regulate temperature control? Obviously we don't want temperatures below 3-4 degrees C in the keezer...are most/all chest freezers capable of holding temeratures as high as 8-10 degrees C (required for most ales)?
Does the wood ever rot?
best info ever but how long does it stay good
Great vid....regarding the drip tray....How do you know where to drill versus not to drill to avoid hitting your cooling lines. I have a 7.2 CU GE ....I want to add a drip tray but magnets wont work...I am scared to death of drilling and hitting a line - rendering my whole project useless. Any Tips?!? Thanks
It's so beautiful.
yes... excellent video... great narractive quick to the point and very informative thanks
Great tutorial! Excuse my naivety, but why use a freezer and not a fridge? Would a freezer not eventually, well - freeze the beer? Cheers 🍺
Freezers will freeze the beer if you don't use a temperature controller that allows you to keep the temperature in the freezer at above-freezing/serving temperatures. You could totally use an upright fridge as a keezer, but most people like the horizontal deep freezers because they fit a lot more kegs (or even fermenters). www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-dual-stage-temp-controller
Keezer (made out of freezer), Kegerator (made out of a fridge). They both work just fine, its up to you. However, the freezer can reach a lower temperature which I find interesting and has much more space for the kegs. The only extra component you would have to buy for the freezer is the temperature controller which is not that expensive, then you can set as low as -1C depending how alcoholic the beer is.
is there a reason to not use wormgear hose clamps?
Yes.. because you won't need the expensive tool.
Sorry, hadn't seen the last couple minutes of the video when I commented. I'll check out your website.
I'm a bit late here but you guys just emailed me with this information so I'm here now. Being new to brewing and haven't kegged yet, don't different beers like to be at different pressures? Meaning, having 1 set PSI on the CO2 could have some beers running flat and some over carbonated, right? Is there any reason you couldn't have a regulator for each line to set it to the ideal pressure for each tap?
Hey Great Project.
I wondering if its always necessary to have to deal with wooden column, why not drill the top part of the freezer coz I doubt there any cooling wire.
thanks
Never know and if you are wrong, you ruin the freezer.
In a lot of posts on the subject I've seen on other sites the freezer is too short inside to house the kegs, so it became standard practice to make the extra space.
Hey Brian - you go ahead and do that and let us know how it worked out !
Sandra Young I think you meant Bryan. I would never try that. LOL
I would have also used wood glue on the collar, and the screws should be countersunk to avoid splitting the wood and for appearance.
Great video! Thanks!!
This type of system also works for a pub? Thanks for the help.
Are you asking if you could use this kegerator setup (or something like it) to serve beer at a pub? If so, I don't see why not. Although a more commercial scale setup might be preferred and move a higher quantity of beer quicker and more efficiently. But there are definitely nanobrewery taprooms that have smaller setups like this one.
question... do you need a freezer in which you are able to adjust the temperature, or would the temperature control unit do that for you? i have a chest freezer that you can't set the temp on. you just plug it in, and it's cold. i'm wondering if the external temp control unit adjusts the temperature for you.
Great video very easy to follow
Jamie, it would be pretty easy to dress this "basic construction" up and add your own style. Beside, for the price, and the pride of having built your own, you can't go wrong with this design, or a variant that works best for you. How about using a black freezer and some stainless over the wood?
Very cool project.
Is there any concern about screwing the drip tray directly on the side of the keezer? Wondering about hitting any coolant lines?
Hi Jack. Did you ever get an answer to your question. I am wondering the same thing?
Silicone would work.... ask your hardware store with plastic/vinyl-to-wood adhesive they suggest. Explain your project and I'm sure they'd love to help - then come share in the final product!
Excuse me, but I didn't get what is the purpose of the tap on the left side.
We want to help here for sure. Can you post a video timecode of exactly when you're seeing the tap in question?
@@NorthernBrewerTV th-cam.com/video/zHWy_Vlw3J4/w-d-xo.html (2:23)
I see 5 taps in the front and 1 hose pointing to the left side.
Is not dangerous to put de co2 tank inside the frezzer?
It is not dangerous as long as everything is set up and secure. If anything it helps gas last longer at colder temps.
I bought some parts from you guys for this project. The swivel nuts do not seem airtight. by which I mean the tailpiece inside the nut doesn't have a gasket or anything. Is this ok?
I would put the temp probe into a bottle of water so you are measuring liquid temp and not air temp. IMHO.
That is a very good tip and one many of our coworkers themselves do. Thanks for that!
Wow! Super easy. Thanks, men.
Any idea of keeping lines cool if I want to run them 5-8f away from tap
Is that 5-8 feet still inside the cooler/fridge and cold... or like outside of the actual keezer/kegarator, etc?
@@NorthernBrewerTV Thank you for the reply. It would be outside of the keezer, behind a wall.
@@NorthernBrewerTV thank you for the reply. Sorry i'm late the whole basement remodeling came to a stand still for a bit. The 5-8f will be outside of the keezer.
doing this this weekend..cant wait!
i'd use a better wood than basic pine 2x4s as well as seal the wood, also use stainless steel screws to prevent rust
how do you regulate the temperature again ?
You would use a temperature controller such as our Dual Stage Temperature Controller:
www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-dual-stage-temp-controller
Congratulations my friend !
Used your video to build a very sexy keezer. Thanks for the help guys!
I'd love to move into kegging and build one of these setups. But I don't know how many kegs I could finish on my own before they all spoil.
@dolphyjazz80 great idea. Adhesive would be messy.
When you drill a hole in the collar to run the c02 line to the outside, how do you seal the hole so air doesn't escape? Do you just fasten the tube in place with caulk, or is there a way to seal it where you can still take the tube out easily?
Love the vid making my own now just finished building a thermostat controller. One question tho would gear clamps work just as well as odicer clamps???