Outstanding video. When I got back into RC a little over two years ago, I had to figure all this (plus other) stuff on my own, with some input from a few locals, and from Castle support. Had there been more videos like this, prior would figure things out quicker. HUGE thanks.
I usually add another 5% or more on the endpoints, since when you run the track works against the wheels, and all steering components flex in one way or another--especially on high bite like carpet. So if you set steering epa with no pressure on the wheels and set it until no noise from the servo, you will actually have less steering when you run the car on the track. And depending how strong your servo is you may need to add more than roughly epa or not. Usually on dirt I find myself adding around 4-6% and carpet 5-7%
thank you , great vid. I am new and will be attempting to do my first servo replacement later today on an enduro knightrunner. I will probably be watching this about 8 more times
I think the sub trim offsets centre as well as the end points. After everything is physically centred, I adjust this first on my DX5. Once I get equal throw left/right I then adjust the normal trim until the car tracks straight on even ground. This way the end points stay the same values
I believe that you're correct here. Use sub-trim to set up the car initially. Sub trim first, then endpoints as the sub-trim moves the endpoints. Using the standard trim function after everything is set up will not change endpoints, hence the reason that it is usually assigned to an easily accessible switch for quick adjustments on the fly (and you don't see this for sub-trim)
As a noob I’m binge watching your videos. Great content and very helpful. Do you have a video listing the more common tools you use along with their specific name or any videos listing the tools in the description? Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Knowing everything you said is true and I've read a few kits and know how a couple brands wanted me to do it, I still use the lazy way and just don't spin the servo. Put the horn on it and set the end points because the servo should rotate past the limits of the rig so I could have added a few steps and knew where my 0 is but ah alls well that ends well.
I saw you posted your TLR 22 5.0 for sale on RCTECH and I couldn't help but get a laugh out of the the title. "THE RAZOR RC", that's awesome dude, and you got some pretty good tips as well. Hope your new XB4 serves you well.
I came to see if I saw something and I saw it. Having the tie rods the same length is important for symmetry which helps your car to be aligned properly and drive straight. The only problem is if you don't center your servo you would have to have one tie rod longer than the other to get your wheels to point straight. Since it's hard to tell if your wheels are pointing straight by just watching you would have great difficulty aligning it so it drives nice and straight. Also if your servo isn't centered you would be able to get equal wheel throw on both sides of center.
I like to orient mine all the same direction, it helps with remembering which way to spin the turnbuckle to lengthen/shorten. But on this kit you're actually supposed to make it symmetrical, so you're right!
I put in a new servo on my typhon 3S version 3. After putting it in and making sure the steering was centered on the controller, and the wheels are centered, I found that I still had to give a good amount of right trim on my controller. However, the car runs fine now. Also, the wheels are locked when I’m trying to physically turn the wheels with my hand, is this normal ? I will add that I used a power HD 20kg servo with a traxxas 25 tooth servo saver. Before I cold turn the wheels with my hand and it wouldn’t lock up on me. I changed the servo from a 23 tooth stock, to a 25 tooth metal gear servo.
Well at the point where you started to adjust your trim you shouldn't have been doing that you should have adjusted your drag link a little bit more to straighten your wheels since your Servo horn wasn't perfectly straight then you adjust your trim after you drive it a little bit or if you can't get your wheels perfectly straight you don't address the trim on your remote until absolute last
Why the Chinese esc? Why not a tekin, sanwa, reedy, Maclan etc...? Other then price i don't see why there so popular. My buddys xr8 isn't any better then my mamba x. We both have the wifi/Bluetooth module and they offer the same. The fine tuning is no different. The smooth power band is no different. My question is why do u run hw in your car over the better brands? To me if your racing you want the best and a tekin rx8 has better specs then a xr8 sct and the the xr8plus so other then 50 bucks cheaper for the xr8plus i don't see the reason to buy chines hw products
I buy HW ESCs for a few reasons. Price is one of them, because I buy a lot of cars every year and so end up buying a lot of ESCs. Another is that many RTRs come with HW ESCs, so it's easier to use one program card, etc. with all of my cars. Lastly, ESCs are pretty easy to break, so I don't like to spend a lot of money on something I could easily mess up.
@@RazorRC yeah I hear alot of people at my local track say they buy them because of price. I have a xr8 and a rx8 on order and I'm going to compare them from a race point of view and see whats better. I know there in alot of Chinese rtr's but I cant fathom that there superior to top brands like tekin sanwa reedy etc. With that said. The xr10pro is still a 200 dollar esc. Thats not that cheap haha. Sorry for bothering you just wanted to hear different peoples opinions. Keep up the good work my friend.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
Outstanding video. When I got back into RC a little over two years ago, I had to figure all this (plus other) stuff on my own, with some input from a few locals, and from Castle support. Had there been more videos like this, prior would figure things out quicker. HUGE thanks.
:45 seconds in and this Newb is already learning!! Thanks bro I got a servo in the mail for my Hoss.
I usually add another 5% or more on the endpoints, since when you run the track works against the wheels, and all steering components flex in one way or another--especially on high bite like carpet. So if you set steering epa with no pressure on the wheels and set it until no noise from the servo, you will actually have less steering when you run the car on the track. And depending how strong your servo is you may need to add more than roughly epa or not. Usually on dirt I find myself adding around 4-6% and carpet 5-7%
good tip!
thank you , great vid. I am new and will be attempting to do my first servo replacement later today on an enduro knightrunner. I will probably be watching this about 8 more times
I think the sub trim offsets centre as well as the end points. After everything is physically centred, I adjust this first on my DX5. Once I get equal throw left/right I then adjust the normal trim until the car tracks straight on even ground. This way the end points stay the same values
I didn't think it affected end points, but I'll double check again.
I believe that you're correct here. Use sub-trim to set up the car initially. Sub trim first, then endpoints as the sub-trim moves the endpoints. Using the standard trim function after everything is set up will not change endpoints, hence the reason that it is usually assigned to an easily accessible switch for quick adjustments on the fly (and you don't see this for sub-trim)
As a noob I’m binge watching your videos. Great content and very helpful. Do you have a video listing the more common tools you use along with their specific name or any videos listing the tools in the description? Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Knowing everything you said is true and I've read a few kits and know how a couple brands wanted me to do it, I still use the lazy way and just don't spin the servo. Put the horn on it and set the end points because the servo should rotate past the limits of the rig so I could have added a few steps and knew where my 0 is but ah alls well that ends well.
Perfect. Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
Thats a really nice looking chassis cant wait for the review.
I saw you posted your TLR 22 5.0 for sale on RCTECH and I couldn't help but get a laugh out of the the title. "THE RAZOR RC", that's awesome dude, and you got some pretty good tips as well. Hope your new XB4 serves you well.
Haha, that actually is my old TLR that I sold about a year ago. Looks like he’s re-selling it, that body is still super clean!
@@RazorRC Oh lol. I am not a fan of TLR but I might have to pick it up because of the history.
Great video. Just what I needed to know. Will follow this when I come to set up my car.
great install and info
Great video man will help a lot of people out!
You saved me bro
Great video helps me with a issue👍
Thanks
thank you!
Great information 👍
Thanks for this. Helps a lot!!!
thanks for the much needed advice...dope track!
Great video thank you so much.
“Close enough”
2 seconds later. “They have to be exact”
Love this video great job
I came to see if I saw something and I saw it. Having the tie rods the same length is important for symmetry which helps your car to be aligned properly and drive straight. The only problem is if you don't center your servo you would have to have one tie rod longer than the other to get your wheels to point straight. Since it's hard to tell if your wheels are pointing straight by just watching you would have great difficulty aligning it so it drives nice and straight. Also if your servo isn't centered you would be able to get equal wheel throw on both sides of center.
hey bro what "servo horn screws" are those? nice video btw
Huge thanks for your video...
I noticed you put all your turnbuckle wrench areas to the left of the vehicle. I wondered why xray doesnt recommend that…
I installed a servo and while the car is off the steering is locked it does not move like yours is that normal
Great video, very helpful. Thank you 👍🏻🍻
Buddy You saved me!
Can the steering link arm be too long ..mine is goin left at zero
Yes Razor esc🧐 does it matter at 7;45 your turnbuckles notches are not on the same side symmetrically🤨 always a tricky one this
Thanks for the show😎😎
I like to orient mine all the same direction, it helps with remembering which way to spin the turnbuckle to lengthen/shorten. But on this kit you're actually supposed to make it symmetrical, so you're right!
I put in a new servo on my typhon 3S version 3. After putting it in and making sure the steering was centered on the controller, and the wheels are centered, I found that I still had to give a good amount of right trim on my controller. However, the car runs fine now. Also, the wheels are locked when I’m trying to physically turn the wheels with my hand, is this normal ? I will add that I used a power HD 20kg servo with a traxxas 25 tooth servo saver. Before I cold turn the wheels with my hand and it wouldn’t lock up on me. I changed the servo from a 23 tooth stock, to a 25 tooth metal gear servo.
I’m about to add the same servo and a servo-saver to my typhon 3s. Did you ever figure out what was happening?
THANK YOU!!
Well at the point where you started to adjust your trim you shouldn't have been doing that you should have adjusted your drag link a little bit more to straighten your wheels since your Servo horn wasn't perfectly straight then you adjust your trim after you drive it a little bit or if you can't get your wheels perfectly straight you don't address the trim on your remote until absolute last
What m I doing wrong if my steering is backwards? Turn right it goes left, turn left it goes right. I went by the instructions. Need help..
Change the setting on the radio to reverse your steering.
My steering keeps cutting off really annoying me now please help
What?¿ didnt know Hudy make servo horn... you know the part number?
awesome brooh
The servo on mine lays down
nice nice
Maybe keeping my rc car stock this is too complicated for me😭😭
Mine has no dr lol
I need a new radio.
@BEAR TRAX RC Thanks! I may prepare for any Black Friday deals.
Why the Chinese esc? Why not a tekin, sanwa, reedy, Maclan etc...? Other then price i don't see why there so popular. My buddys xr8 isn't any better then my mamba x. We both have the wifi/Bluetooth module and they offer the same. The fine tuning is no different. The smooth power band is no different. My question is why do u run hw in your car over the better brands? To me if your racing you want the best and a tekin rx8 has better specs then a xr8 sct and the the xr8plus so other then 50 bucks cheaper for the xr8plus i don't see the reason to buy chines hw products
I buy HW ESCs for a few reasons. Price is one of them, because I buy a lot of cars every year and so end up buying a lot of ESCs. Another is that many RTRs come with HW ESCs, so it's easier to use one program card, etc. with all of my cars. Lastly, ESCs are pretty easy to break, so I don't like to spend a lot of money on something I could easily mess up.
@@RazorRC yeah I hear alot of people at my local track say they buy them because of price. I have a xr8 and a rx8 on order and I'm going to compare them from a race point of view and see whats better. I know there in alot of Chinese rtr's but I cant fathom that there superior to top brands like tekin sanwa reedy etc. With that said. The xr10pro is still a 200 dollar esc. Thats not that cheap haha. Sorry for bothering you just wanted to hear different peoples opinions. Keep up the good work my friend.
lol close enough is NOT the exact same amount 😂 just sayin 😊