I think that looks a lot nicer. I will replace the shackles on my car soon. I don't like the look of the long shackles either. Hopefully the bolts won't interfere with the exhaust; I didn't think about that. Great video!
From what I'm reading it sounds like what was done to the shackles on my car was a very common mod, probably the same reason why it's on your car too. :)
When you instal the new shackles just switch the direction of the bolt on the leaf before you attach the top of the shackle to the frame. This will eliminate the exhaust being in the way when you put the bolt through because you can just lower the axle until it clears the exhaust then just raise it back up to connect to the frame.
Good job Andy. Shackles were the thing back in the day, as where air shocks. I went with coil overs on all corners of my Fastback. A lot easier to adjust the height, and control. I hope you didn't stain that nice Seahawk shirt. Save it for next year. Lol.
Thanks! Coilovers would be great, but they're just outside the budget right now. Might have to burn the Hawks shirt to match the season they're having. :)
I have a question, on my 66 coupe it has only 26,000.00 miles on the car. I want to put a set of headers on it. But my question is how do I go about taking off the old manifold, what I mean what I am caution about is breaking the bolts off in the head when I go to take the old ones off, should I let the motor get hot to try to make them easier or spray something on them to loosen them up?
Letting the motor get hot may help as it changes the dimensions of both the bolt and the threaded hole it's in, but too hot and it could be easier to twist off the bolts. You could also thoroughly soak the bolt heads and where the header mates with the head with something like PB Blaster or other agents that aid in loosening up the bolts. The more rusted and corroded the bolts look, the high the chance they snap off. It will be addressing this on my car soon, I'm not looking forward to removing these header bolts for the same reason you're concerned. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I think I will wait and let you do yours first lol because I have followed everything that you have done, that I needed on my car so I will feel better that way, my Name is Ricky Caldwell I put mjj on my site because of a friend I lost thanks for your help Andy
ya andy, great look, i commented a question on other videos of yours, ive seen composite leaf springs, not sure about them, my question again is about lowering my 34 ford tudor, leaf springs or blocks? or both, and what to order when i purchase, any help much appreciated, great videos btw
Thank you! The lift is a Quick Jack lift. It's a great lift if you're working on the front or rear of the car. If you need to get under the middle of the car, I'd recommend using traditional jack stands. It provides about 2 feet of clearance, which is plenty for most projects. A regular lift would be much better, but most of us either don't have the money and/or the space for a full lift. This is a decent compromise. I got it at Costco, on sale, for about $1000.
Did your shackle kit come with metal sleeves that fit inside of the rubber bushings before you installed them? I couldnt see any when you installed the shackles.
At the time no, because I was doing a few other things. But yes, the alignment needs to be done anytime the the front suspension is modified. The changes I made are less likely to cause the car to steer badly or dangerously, but are more likely to cause premature tire wear without a proper alignment. :)
I almost did that, but I felt like that would have been "cutting a corner" that I didn't want to do. In the end no one would have noticed and it would have definitely been easier. But it's ok, it's done now. :)
If you're referring to the Quick Jack, it's very reliable. It can be a little bit of a chore to setup, and your access to the middle-under section of the car can be limited, but there's almost two feet of clearance on the front and rear of the car, making it very nice when working in those areas. If you're referring to that orange floor jack, it's great too. It has a decent build quality and also offers quite a bit of ground clearance.
No, but those bolts are really close. I'm redoing the exhaust a little later (still collecting all the parts) and I plan to have those pipes fixed so nothing touches or rattles.
It's the QuickJack, and I purchased it from Costco, it was on sale for $999. It's a fantastic solution for those that don't have the space for a full car lift, and if you only need to work on the front end or rear end of the car. The middle of the car can be difficult to access because the design of these jacks force you to enter from the end of the car, not the sides. I get about 2 feet of lift out of this thing, which is enough space to perform most work under the car. :)
I begin to talk about supporting each side around the 1:25 mark of the video. Then, throughout the video you can see the jack holding up whatever side I'm working on. :)
Were the frame rails repaired/ rusted? Just curious, because I have a '66 that may need some frame rail repairs where the rear leaf springs bolt in, and would be interested in how a repair like that is done (without tearing apart the trunk floor, etc).
The previous owner went through and replaced and repair some rusted areas, as well as doing some undercoating. He got a little heavy with the undercoating in some areas, that's why some areas seen in this video look like it was "done at home".
Ha, they're usually not. Sometimes there are several hours between each thing I do, or even days. I try to do these videos in the evenings after work, or on the weekends, so there can be big periods of time between each step and my hands are usually clean when I get back to working on the car. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel it’s cool lol I always wanted to do the long shackles I finally ordered some can’t wait to lift the rear to give it the old school drag car look 🤙
@@fernandovids mine just arrived today and are on the porch.... my 68 cougar has to have some lift back there. Tires are too wide and rub the fender lip over bigger bumps... this will give me a couple of inches - prior life (car has been off the road for 30 years) it had hijacker air shocks.... so its used to having its ass high... but came here to make sure im not missing something for when i tackle it tonight
The exhaust is in the way to put those brackets in the other direction. If the exhaust was routed below the car instead of out that rear fascia piece, it would have been a lot easier. :)
@@swooshdave They're welded on. Not a big deal, when the car is on the ground the bolts from the shackles don't touch the exhaust. But I'll be fixing that soon when I redo the exhaust.
@@swooshdave Yes, I'm doing the next several videos in the garage with the door closed because it's really cold outside. While I love this time of year, it's difficult to find motivation to work on the car with these low temps. But the show must go on, the people need the videos!! :)
Much better! Looking forward to the next!
Thanks, me too!
I think that looks a lot nicer. I will replace the shackles on my car soon. I don't like the look of the long shackles either. Hopefully the bolts won't interfere with the exhaust; I didn't think about that. Great video!
FYI, my current shackles look very similar to your old ones, and I am measuring 28" on one side and 28 1/4" on the other side.
From what I'm reading it sounds like what was done to the shackles on my car was a very common mod, probably the same reason why it's on your car too. :)
Thanks!
When you instal the new shackles just switch the direction of the bolt on the leaf before you attach the top of the shackle to the frame. This will eliminate the exhaust being in the way when you put the bolt through because you can just lower the axle until it clears the exhaust then just raise it back up to connect to the frame.
Great video,very informative, car looks great
Thanks 👍
Hey, this was a great video and thanks for sharing!
Hey, thanks!
Good job Andy. Shackles were the thing back in the day, as where air shocks. I went with coil overs on all corners of my Fastback. A lot easier to adjust the height, and control. I hope you didn't stain that nice Seahawk shirt. Save it for next year. Lol.
Thanks!
Coilovers would be great, but they're just outside the budget right now.
Might have to burn the Hawks shirt to match the season they're having. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Totally understand the price. Are u a Washingtonian?
@@craigs1953 Yes sir.
Looking good!
Thanks!
I have a question, on my 66 coupe it has only 26,000.00 miles on the car. I want to put a set of headers on it. But my question is how do I go about taking off the old manifold, what I mean what I am caution about is breaking the bolts off in the head when I go to take the old ones off, should I let the motor get hot to try to make them easier or spray something on them to loosen them up?
Letting the motor get hot may help as it changes the dimensions of both the bolt and the threaded hole it's in, but too hot and it could be easier to twist off the bolts. You could also thoroughly soak the bolt heads and where the header mates with the head with something like PB Blaster or other agents that aid in loosening up the bolts. The more rusted and corroded the bolts look, the high the chance they snap off. It will be addressing this on my car soon, I'm not looking forward to removing these header bolts for the same reason you're concerned. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I think I will wait and let you do yours first lol because I have followed everything that you have done, that I needed on my car so I will feel better that way, my Name is Ricky Caldwell I put mjj on my site because of a friend I lost thanks for your help Andy
Great content!!!!
Thanks
Definitely looks better.
Thanks!
ya andy, great look,
i commented a question on other videos of yours,
ive seen composite leaf springs, not sure about them, my question again is about lowering my 34 ford tudor, leaf springs or blocks? or both, and what to order when i purchase,
any help much appreciated, great videos btw
Yep, saw that. New leaf (mid-eye or reverse-eye) springs, and then try lowering blocks. :)
When I bought my 65 in 1972 it had mile long Shackles On It
I think my car had the same shackles as yours! :)
Very informative What is the brand lift you have? and do ulike it?
Thank you!
The lift is a Quick Jack lift. It's a great lift if you're working on the front or rear of the car. If you need to get under the middle of the car, I'd recommend using traditional jack stands. It provides about 2 feet of clearance, which is plenty for most projects. A regular lift would be much better, but most of us either don't have the money and/or the space for a full lift. This is a decent compromise. I got it at Costco, on sale, for about $1000.
Did your shackle kit come with metal sleeves that fit inside of the rubber bushings before you installed them? I couldnt see any when you installed the shackles.
No, the rubber bushings are sized to fit with the included hardware.
Nice work, nice ride Man.
Hey, when you did the Shelby drop and spring cut, did you align the car?
At the time no, because I was doing a few other things. But yes, the alignment needs to be done anytime the the front suspension is modified. The changes I made are less likely to cause the car to steer badly or dangerously, but are more likely to cause premature tire wear without a proper alignment. :)
If you cut the Mile long shackles to the length you want they would be easier to install because the bolt is not welded to the shackle
I almost did that, but I felt like that would have been "cutting a corner" that I didn't want to do. In the end no one would have noticed and it would have definitely been easier. But it's ok, it's done now. :)
How reliable is that car jack?
If you're referring to the Quick Jack, it's very reliable. It can be a little bit of a chore to setup, and your access to the middle-under section of the car can be limited, but there's almost two feet of clearance on the front and rear of the car, making it very nice when working in those areas. If you're referring to that orange floor jack, it's great too. It has a decent build quality and also offers quite a bit of ground clearance.
Did the bolts touches the exhaust after you dropped the car to the ground? I think the height of the rear wheels look good as it is now.
No, but those bolts are really close. I'm redoing the exhaust a little later (still collecting all the parts) and I plan to have those pipes fixed so nothing touches or rattles.
Random question. Can you do a quick vid to show where you put the quickjacks to lift the car?
That's probably a good idea. I'll see what I can do. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I have the Quickjacks as well and always use the pinch rail.
What car lift is that?
It's the QuickJack, and I purchased it from Costco, it was on sale for $999. It's a fantastic solution for those that don't have the space for a full car lift, and if you only need to work on the front end or rear end of the car. The middle of the car can be difficult to access because the design of these jacks force you to enter from the end of the car, not the sides. I get about 2 feet of lift out of this thing, which is enough space to perform most work under the car. :)
what kind of grease do you use ?
Just regular axle/wheel bearing grease that you can get at any auto parts store. The brand of the stuff I was using is LubriMatic.
You missed the main part of this. How to/where to support spring before disassembly.
I begin to talk about supporting each side around the 1:25 mark of the video. Then, throughout the video you can see the jack holding up whatever side I'm working on. :)
Were the frame rails repaired/ rusted? Just curious, because I have a '66 that may need some frame rail repairs where the rear leaf springs bolt in, and would be interested in how a repair like that is done (without tearing apart the trunk floor, etc).
The previous owner went through and replaced and repair some rusted areas, as well as doing some undercoating. He got a little heavy with the undercoating in some areas, that's why some areas seen in this video look like it was "done at home".
@@AndyKruseChannel Gotcha. Thank you!
I literally have the same issue
Cool, now you have one another way to fix it. :)
How are you hands so clean when your working on your car?lol
Ha, they're usually not. Sometimes there are several hours between each thing I do, or even days. I try to do these videos in the evenings after work, or on the weekends, so there can be big periods of time between each step and my hands are usually clean when I get back to working on the car. :)
Can I have the shackles u took out lol?
Sorry Boss, that was a long time ago. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel it’s cool lol I always wanted to do the long shackles I finally ordered some can’t wait to lift the rear to give it the old school drag car look 🤙
@@fernandovids mine just arrived today and are on the porch.... my 68 cougar has to have some lift back there. Tires are too wide and rub the fender lip over bigger bumps... this will give me a couple of inches - prior life (car has been off the road for 30 years) it had hijacker air shocks.... so its used to having its ass high... but came here to make sure im not missing something for when i tackle it tonight
Not a fan of the clown music. Are you not able to reverse the shackles so the bolts don’t hit? It looks like it’s possible.
The exhaust is in the way to put those brackets in the other direction. If the exhaust was routed below the car instead of out that rear fascia piece, it would have been a lot easier. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I wasn’t able to tell if the bolts for the shackles allowed it to be disassembled more. Are the tips welded on or bolted?
@@swooshdave They're welded on. Not a big deal, when the car is on the ground the bolts from the shackles don't touch the exhaust. But I'll be fixing that soon when I redo the exhaust.
@@AndyKruseChannel I’m guessing you’re starting to get snow and will have some time to work on stuff.
@@swooshdave Yes, I'm doing the next several videos in the garage with the door closed because it's really cold outside. While I love this time of year, it's difficult to find motivation to work on the car with these low temps. But the show must go on, the people need the videos!! :)