We'll deserving of a 'like'. I fell down the rabbit hole of Japanese knives, cladded carbon steel, whetstones and recently bought my first natural stone @ hardness rating of 4. It's hard to find really knowledgeable folks on all things Japanese knives which is what we have here.
Bought your book and loved it! Seeing this is EXTREMELY helpful to see after reading. Thanks for doing this and thanks for helping me keep my knives nice and sharp!
Great tutorial video. I purchased a set of Japanese knives for my wife recently and she loves them. Now I get to learn how to keep them sharp. Can you provide a link to the different stones you are using here?
Hi Gregg, Thanks for the kind works! You can find the stones featured in this video at the link below. bernalcutlery.com/search?q=Takarazukushi Feel free to reach out to info@bernalcutlery.com with any in-depth sharpening questions.
I'm reading your book. I find the discussion of Japanese blade geometry very interesting. I went to the local sushi store and bought an inexpensive Japanese gyuto knife and it illustrates what you are talking about in terms of knuckle-side bevel and a thinner blade. Question. I'm a cabinetmaker and have two Tormek wheels that I use for my chisels, hand plane blades, and other cutting tools. What do think of the Tormek water wheels for sharpening kitchen knives (as opposed to strictly sticking to stones)?
Hi, thanks for the note, the Tormek are the most accessible water cooled grinders out there, I used them for years and they did alright, they typically need their hollow ground edges flattened however, with a wide bevel this is a ton of extra work but on narrower bevels it’s not too much extra work typically unless the knife has been sharpened in a lot.
@@bernalcutlery-sf I figured I love your videos brotha keep up the good work.. I ordered a monodiachrome strop from you guys recently and its wonderful for all t he knives im sharpening lately... It leaves such a beautiful finish with that solution... Do you know what grid that stuff is it must be 20k plus easily because ive never seen anything like it especially on the wustof knives I did...
Honest opinion is that in this modern era a diamond stone or maybe cBN( wich I never tried unfortunately ) is simply the best option , cuts amazingly fast. Problem is that western producers keep prices inflated , otherwise they could just sell a good stone for 30$
I have a resin bonded diamond stone and it's great for polishing. Stays flat like no other stone and considering the grit cuts quite fast. For polishing I'm quite convinced at how good diamond is but for apex sharpening not so much. There are electron microscopy images on Science of Sharp showing diamond can break carbides. Not only vanadium carbides but all other types including chromium carbides seen in most knife steels. This may leave a perfectly formed apex but with increased metal fatigue and low durability. It doesn't always happen but its quite common. I've had this problem and I've seen some friends having the same issue. If you are happy your with edge durability there is no need to change but if you want to try something different and compare performance here are some tips. After you sharpen on diamond finish with a microbevel edge leading on Al Ox stone or few passes on trailing on loaded strop. This will likely remove the fatigued metal. Loaded strop with diamond compounds don't seem to fracture carbides but may create foil burr so a few passes is better than ten passes.
@@dimmacommunication I do think Al Ox are more versatile than diamond stones, specially if you plan on finishing on stone but I also love several other types of equipment. For finishing general purpose knives my preferred methods are Al Ox stones 1-6K , Hanging Denim strop with Solingen paste, and Slate with 120 SIC conditioning. All these work excellent but each material has its own technical details. If you want best results understanding each can be tricky. With Al Ox you need to learn how to flatten the stone, no light passing under a ruler is good enough to cut paper towel one handed. Edge trailing doesn't fully remove burr. With correct deburring technique you can cut paper towel even from low grit stones like 300 and that's an excellent challenge. For barbecue and rope this is an excellent finish but will strugle a lot cutting raw meat. Coarse conditioned fine slate is no joke. Cheap stone and has an excellent finish for a general purpose knife, on my two samples something around 3-6 K. I wouldn't use it on a blunt knife but for edge maintenance its a great option. Probably several other natural stones work similarly well or better like Arkansas stones, Jade, and J Nats. I also got Jade but its conditioned as a razor stone so I haven't tested it yet. Hanging Denim doesn't create foil burr like other strops so you can do as many passes as you want as long as you keep it straight, use very low pressure and don't raise the angle. Solingen paste leaves a relative grit around 6K. Many people recommend diamonds for vanadium steels, that makes sense because Vanadium carbides are harder than Al Ox but weirdly enough Al Ox stones do cut Vanadium carbides. I would never imagine that and don't fully understand how it works but there are electron microscopy images of clean cut vanadium carbides on Science of Sharp.
@@thiago.assumpcao I saw some microscopy and vanadium didn't get cut ,maybe depends from steel to steel, don't know. Even only 2.5% vanadium was a tough cookie with Al ox stones , can't imagine 8% 😂😂😂
every now and then you find a video that you feel thankful for, no music, no bs, just information
We'll deserving of a 'like'. I fell down the rabbit hole of Japanese knives, cladded carbon steel, whetstones and recently bought my first natural stone @ hardness rating of 4. It's hard to find really knowledgeable folks on all things Japanese knives which is what we have here.
Why does this video only have 6k views? I found some great advice in this video and im not a beginner. Nice video!
So helpful: simple, yet precise instructions. Love the bidextrous symmetry.
thanks!
Bought your book and loved it! Seeing this is EXTREMELY helpful to see after reading. Thanks for doing this and thanks for helping me keep my knives nice and sharp!
Hi Steven, Glad to hear! Stay tuned for more sharpening videos in the future.
I have a question if I may. How many quarters for a petty and slicer
Great tutorial video. I purchased a set of Japanese knives for my wife recently and she loves them. Now I get to learn how to keep them sharp. Can you provide a link to the different stones you are using here?
Hi Gregg,
Thanks for the kind works! You can find the stones featured in this video at the link below.
bernalcutlery.com/search?q=Takarazukushi
Feel free to reach out to info@bernalcutlery.com with any in-depth sharpening questions.
I'm reading your book. I find the discussion of Japanese blade geometry very interesting. I went to the local sushi store and bought an inexpensive Japanese gyuto knife and it illustrates what you are talking about in terms of knuckle-side bevel and a thinner blade. Question. I'm a cabinetmaker and have two Tormek wheels that I use for my chisels, hand plane blades, and other cutting tools. What do think of the Tormek water wheels for sharpening kitchen knives (as opposed to strictly sticking to stones)?
Hi, thanks for the note, the Tormek are the most accessible water cooled grinders out there, I used them for years and they did alright, they typically need their hollow ground edges flattened however, with a wide bevel this is a ton of extra work but on narrower bevels it’s not too much extra work typically unless the knife has been sharpened in a lot.
@@bernalcutlery-sf Thanks for your response. You obviously know what you are talking about.
Are you trying to work each side of the knife for the same amount of time regardless of when the burr forms?
How many quarters would it be for slicer or a petty ?
what sponge are you using
It's just a classic car sponge cut into smaller cubes!
@@bernalcutlery-sf I figured I love your videos brotha keep up the good work.. I ordered a monodiachrome strop from you guys recently and its wonderful for all t he knives im sharpening lately... It leaves such a beautiful finish with that solution... Do you know what grid that stuff is it must be 20k plus easily because ive never seen anything like it especially on the wustof knives I did...
@@bernalcutlery-sf ;I just bought popup sponges they work fine btw
Honest opinion is that in this modern era a diamond stone or maybe cBN( wich I never tried unfortunately ) is simply the best option , cuts amazingly fast.
Problem is that western producers keep prices inflated , otherwise they could just sell a good stone for 30$
I have a resin bonded diamond stone and it's great for polishing. Stays flat like no other stone and considering the grit cuts quite fast.
For polishing I'm quite convinced at how good diamond is but for apex sharpening not so much.
There are electron microscopy images on Science of Sharp showing diamond can break carbides. Not only vanadium carbides but all other types including chromium carbides seen in most knife steels. This may leave a perfectly formed apex but with increased metal fatigue and low durability. It doesn't always happen but its quite common. I've had this problem and I've seen some friends having the same issue.
If you are happy your with edge durability there is no need to change but if you want to try something different and compare performance here are some tips.
After you sharpen on diamond finish with a microbevel edge leading on Al Ox stone or few passes on trailing on loaded strop. This will likely remove the fatigued metal.
Loaded strop with diamond compounds don't seem to fracture carbides but may create foil burr so a few passes is better than ten passes.
@@thiago.assumpcao Oh ok, so you think for non vanadium Al ox is still best all around ?
@@dimmacommunication I do think Al Ox are more versatile than diamond stones, specially if you plan on finishing on stone but I also love several other types of equipment.
For finishing general purpose knives my preferred methods are Al Ox stones 1-6K , Hanging Denim strop with Solingen paste, and Slate with 120 SIC conditioning.
All these work excellent but each material has its own technical details. If you want best results understanding each can be tricky.
With Al Ox you need to learn how to flatten the stone, no light passing under a ruler is good enough to cut paper towel one handed. Edge trailing doesn't fully remove burr. With correct deburring technique you can cut paper towel even from low grit stones like 300 and that's an excellent challenge. For barbecue and rope this is an excellent finish but will strugle a lot cutting raw meat.
Coarse conditioned fine slate is no joke. Cheap stone and has an excellent finish for a general purpose knife, on my two samples something around 3-6 K. I wouldn't use it on a blunt knife but for edge maintenance its a great option. Probably several other natural stones work similarly well or better like Arkansas stones, Jade, and J Nats. I also got Jade but its conditioned as a razor stone so I haven't tested it yet.
Hanging Denim doesn't create foil burr like other strops so you can do as many passes as you want as long as you keep it straight, use very low pressure and don't raise the angle. Solingen paste leaves a relative grit around 6K.
Many people recommend diamonds for vanadium steels, that makes sense because Vanadium carbides are harder than Al Ox but weirdly enough Al Ox stones do cut Vanadium carbides. I would never imagine that and don't fully understand how it works but there are electron microscopy images of clean cut vanadium carbides on Science of Sharp.
@@thiago.assumpcao I saw some microscopy and vanadium didn't get cut ,maybe depends from steel to steel, don't know.
Even only 2.5% vanadium was a tough cookie with Al ox stones , can't imagine 8% 😂😂😂
@@dimmacommunication Where did you see those images?
Most people who sharpen are not ambitious.