In this video Josh covers the basics in thinning a wide bevel Japanese knife. Interested in the knife featured in the video? Available here! bit.ly/3iNJS2J
My knives are razor like after sharpening yet they get a bit stuck when slicing, (just not same as when new). I figured this “thick behind the edge” sort of thing. Glad I found your video! Thx for the explanation!
Man the insight at the end of your video takes me back to my first Japanese blade and practicing sharpening on water stones with my Henkels set they looked terrible but were razors lol
Hello ! I have watched this video several times now for instructions! Always informative. I find myself with different questions as I learn more. Sorry for the repetition. When you move down the primary bevel after working on the shinogi line first do you raise your angle some for the middle of the karriba( sorry about spelling ) and then some more for the edge or just change where you put pressure ?
It really depends upon the specific knife and what you are going for. But in general, once you've got the kireha pretty flat and are getting into polishing and maintaining that geometry over time, it's really advantageous to do some work with pressure up high near shinogi, balance that with even more work with pressure down near the edge (the steel there is harder so it takes more work to remove), and then do a little blending work on your finer stones with pressure in the center. This works for both single bevels and wide bevel double bevels that have clear shinogi lines. That is the basic gist of hamaguri style sharpening, and it not only makes polishing easier but creates a subtle convexity in the primary bevel which helps with performance and food release.😊
Hi Todd, With the knife in the video being a wide bevel knife, we are putting the full secondary bevel on the stone to thin behind the initial edge. If you were working a monosteel blade instead you would thinning behind the edge on the full face of the blade on each side.
My knives are razor like after sharpening yet they get a bit stuck when slicing, (just not same as when new). I figured this “thick behind the edge” sort of thing. Glad I found your video! Thx for the explanation!
Hey Ed, nice seeing you on here! Glad to hear this helped! -Tim
@@bernalcutlery-sf thanks Tim! You certainly helped.
What settup do you have for the sharpening camera angle?
When you move down to the edge for the microbevel you mention are you raising your angle or just putting pressure in the edge
Man the insight at the end of your video takes me back to my first Japanese blade and practicing sharpening on water stones with my Henkels set they looked terrible but were razors lol
You always have to start somewhere! Glad to hear the video was helpful!
Hello ! I have watched this video several times now for instructions! Always informative. I find myself with different questions as I learn more. Sorry for the repetition. When you move down the primary bevel after working on the shinogi line first do you raise your angle some for the middle of the karriba( sorry about spelling ) and then some more for the edge or just change where you put pressure ?
It really depends upon the specific knife and what you are going for. But in general, once you've got the kireha pretty flat and are getting into polishing and maintaining that geometry over time, it's really advantageous to do some work with pressure up high near shinogi, balance that with even more work with pressure down near the edge (the steel there is harder so it takes more work to remove), and then do a little blending work on your finer stones with pressure in the center. This works for both single bevels and wide bevel double bevels that have clear shinogi lines. That is the basic gist of hamaguri style sharpening, and it not only makes polishing easier but creates a subtle convexity in the primary bevel which helps with performance and food release.😊
Hi! Do you sharpen the cutting edge first then thin out the primary bevel or the other way around?
Hello Garry,
Typically we find it best to thin the knife before finishing the edge with a micro or secondary bevel.
Would you recommend thinning Western style knives in a similar fashion? Or is this only recommended for Japanese style knives?
Hand made, hand sharpened, imperfect. Which is better than perfect.
sir , what grit of stone do you use to start thinning ?
It depends on how much thinning the knife needs but anywhere from #100 to #400 is a great start.
thanks for the answer @@bernalcutlery-sf
Are you putting the knife flat in the stone ?
Is the process the same with a mono steel knife like a hd2 without the benefit of a shinogi line ?
Hi Todd, With the knife in the video being a wide bevel knife, we are putting the full secondary bevel on the stone to thin behind the initial edge. If you were working a monosteel blade instead you would thinning behind the edge on the full face of the blade on each side.