This was exactly what I needed. My brain needs to process the what go where and why. Not just a wiring diagram. Thank you so much. I wish I could have posted the rats nest I had to deal left from the previous owner. I ripped it all out and confidently rewired using your explanation. Worked perfectly as I'm sure you would have expected. So thank you for the gift heat for Christmas. Me and my family are super comfortable now.
Just found your videos last week. As a 2nd year plumbing and really getting into heating this winter, your page has become a “ lightbulb “ type deal for me. Thank you. If youre looking for vigor suggestions love to see a drawing one of zins multiple pumps wired into a relay. Thanks again
It's a lot of work and I don't often have a lot of time, but I want to make sure it's done right. Going to take a while, but I'm making sure it's worth it.
I wired in a Taco zone valve controller which works great, but could I have wired the zone valves up without a controller and get the same performance?
question, you mentioned at the end that some people use the ZC terminal instead of the C terminal. wouldn't the circ be powered every time during the call from the low limit even without the t-stat call for heat ?
Your older videos show the R transformer to yellow zone valve. These show it bypassing the yellow and using the white to put power to zone valve. Is there benefit to sending the 24 directly to Tstat here vs sending it through the zone valve. Difference here is the zone valve doesn’t get the power until tstat completes circuit where as before it gets the power but doesn’t complete circuit to power motors until tstat closes circuit. I’m wondering if it’s for longevity of the valve or what reason is. Also do you have video showing the wiring including the C wire for most modern thermostats?
Curious if you run the RED directory to Thermostat bypassing the Zone Valve on way up... How can you leverage this 24v to become the "common" wire for thermostat? Can you take the red thermostat wire and plug into R and jump to C (or vice versa)? Basically seems to allow the 2 wire thermostat wires to deal with the "missing common" issue it would seem.
Powering the t-stat first generally works with many different types of zone valves, particularly if you have taco power heads and such. So going T-stat first is a more universal wiring approach that can accommodate variations there, and it's how most techs wire the stuff up anyway. Also with today's smart thermostats, powering them first can more likely help them work with full functionality. There may be a power related theory behind why going zone valve first might not be ideal, but I can't remember what it is. I had techs with 20+ years experience show me the ZV first method when I first started, so I don't think whatever that theory might be is very popular. As for a jumper between R and C, no. On power stealing thermostats you can use a resistor as a jumper between W and C and that typically works.
Yeah since R-W isn’t closed until calling now sure how C would play into that. I’m just trying to figure out another way to leverage 2 wire tstat wire missing a C without need for something like Fast-stat common maker kit.
Ok but what if you just bought a Watts Tekmar that has the transformer built in? As far as I can see, it looks like the Tekmar takes care of the details and all you need to do is wire as noted in the diagrams. So both reds to motor, and each yellow to the end switch. I'm just at the finishing steps and can't see any other way to do it.
@JerseyMikeHVAC yup, I figured that part out. Get this: turns out the former homeowner crossed zone 1 and zone 2 so the supply lines were fighting each other. How they had 3 zones working when we bought the joint, I'll never understand. Also had to replace the transformer. The Tekmar works great. I'll be uncrossing those lines tmw. I want to have a chat with the monkey that did that.... ugh.
Hai, I am in New York, people needs help for tankless combi boiler ,my request to you ,if possible, please make something about combi boiler. Thanks for your help .
This was exactly what I needed. My brain needs to process the what go where and why. Not just a wiring diagram. Thank you so much. I wish I could have posted the rats nest I had to deal left from the previous owner. I ripped it all out and confidently rewired using your explanation. Worked perfectly as I'm sure you would have expected. So thank you for the gift heat for Christmas. Me and my family are super comfortable now.
Excellent!
Fantastic video Mike,as all of them are! You’ve helped me immensely with my homes hydronic heating system. You’re a really good teacher! Cheers
Thank you!
Just found your videos last week. As a 2nd year plumbing and really getting into heating this winter, your page has become a “ lightbulb “ type deal for me. Thank you. If youre looking for vigor suggestions love to see a drawing one of zins multiple pumps wired into a relay. Thanks again
Just what I was looking for. Simple and to the point.
I might be interested in that course. i like your explanation in your videos, which i used on my own sytem to find faults. awsome videos.
Thank you ,Mike. Great info.
I’m in year 3, an always refer back to your videos, thank you🤘
Great video Thank you so much
Great video Mike, thank you so much. Any news on the new course?
It's a lot of work and I don't often have a lot of time, but I want to make sure it's done right. Going to take a while, but I'm making sure it's worth it.
@JerseyMikeHVAC All in time 😁, thanks again for your video's. They're very helpful.
Waiting on the course.
Great learning for me mike..thanks bud
Great vid
I wired in a Taco zone valve controller which works great, but could I have wired the zone valves up without a controller and get the same performance?
That’s correct. I have a zone valve controller free system. All you need is a 24v transformer and do exactly what he said
@Drtbiker88 Interesting, well the green boxes on the wall with yellow and red lights looks real nice anyway....lol
Thank you 😎 🤟
How about an aquastat vid Mike? ZC, ZR, TV,ect..
question, you mentioned at the end that some people use the ZC terminal instead of the C terminal. wouldn't the circ be powered every time during the call from the low limit even without the t-stat call for heat ?
I said TV and T at the end there, not ZC and C.
Legend
Thank you, brother.
Your older videos show the R transformer to yellow zone valve. These show it bypassing the yellow and using the white to put power to zone valve. Is there benefit to sending the 24 directly to Tstat here vs sending it through the zone valve. Difference here is the zone valve doesn’t get the power until tstat completes circuit where as before it gets the power but doesn’t complete circuit to power motors until tstat closes circuit. I’m wondering if it’s for longevity of the valve or what reason is. Also do you have video showing the wiring including the C wire for most modern thermostats?
Curious if you run the RED directory to Thermostat bypassing the Zone Valve on way up... How can you leverage this 24v to become the "common" wire for thermostat? Can you take the red thermostat wire and plug into R and jump to C (or vice versa)? Basically seems to allow the 2 wire thermostat wires to deal with the "missing common" issue it would seem.
Powering the t-stat first generally works with many different types of zone valves, particularly if you have taco power heads and such. So going T-stat first is a more universal wiring approach that can accommodate variations there, and it's how most techs wire the stuff up anyway. Also with today's smart thermostats, powering them first can more likely help them work with full functionality. There may be a power related theory behind why going zone valve first might not be ideal, but I can't remember what it is. I had techs with 20+ years experience show me the ZV first method when I first started, so I don't think whatever that theory might be is very popular.
As for a jumper between R and C, no. On power stealing thermostats you can use a resistor as a jumper between W and C and that typically works.
Yeah since R-W isn’t closed until calling now sure how C would play into that. I’m just trying to figure out another way to leverage 2 wire tstat wire missing a C without need for something like Fast-stat common maker kit.
Ok but what if you just bought a Watts Tekmar that has the transformer built in? As far as I can see, it looks like the Tekmar takes care of the details and all you need to do is wire as noted in the diagrams. So both reds to motor, and each yellow to the end switch. I'm just at the finishing steps and can't see any other way to do it.
Yes wire as the diagrams in the Tekmar indicate. But yellows are your motor. Reds are the end switch.
@JerseyMikeHVAC yup, I figured that part out. Get this: turns out the former homeowner crossed zone 1 and zone 2 so the supply lines were fighting each other. How they had 3 zones working when we bought the joint, I'll never understand. Also had to replace the transformer. The Tekmar works great. I'll be uncrossing those lines tmw. I want to have a chat with the monkey that did that.... ugh.
Your good
How can i join blue collar academy
Send me an email notifying me of your interest and I will keep you updated as the course develops and becomes ready.
BlueCollarAcademyHVAC@gmail.com
@@JerseyMikeHVACme too?
I'm signing up..
Hai, I am in New York, people needs help for tankless combi boiler ,my request to you ,if possible, please make something about combi boiler. Thanks for your help .