I remember when I first stumbled upon your channel and started watching your vids. I've been hooked ever since. I've always wanted to build a layout but I've always been intimidated after watching these. Also, I've never really had the room. But now I do, and I am thinking about doing a 4x6 layout so that I can learn the basics. I have no idea how to do any of it, so this will be interesting to say the least. I appreciate what you do and the inspiration that you have given me!!
Thanks! If I was starting out I would build a simple switching layout on a shelf around two or three walls with the benchwork about 18” deep and the height about 54” from the floor built using 1x3 lumber, 1/4” Birch plywood with a 1/2” pink foam insulation board on top. I’d use the new Walthers track and switches, an NCE DCC system and the ProtoThrottle of course! 😁 I’d use a ScaleTrains SD40-2 for my locomotive programmed correctly for the ProtoThrottle with a LokProgrammer. And I’d have an absolute blast. Good luck!
@@SeaboardCentral Yes, I think this is likely a much better idea than a 4x6. The problem with a 4x6 (or similar square-ish size) is that all you can really do is make trains go round and round, chasing their own EOTs. If you want a railfanning-style layout, that's fine, but if you want to do anything else, it quickly becomes limiting.
You’re in my top channels I keep up with as the best quality switching ops. I think I’ve been subbed to you for yearsssss now and glad to see you always keep active and love your industrial layout especially the motive power, I grew up with GATX geeps that basically have the same exact livery as your seaboard locos and I always enjoyed that.
I've been cleaning my wheelsets with a Dremel for a long time & it works great! Early on, I changed over to brass wire wheels to eliminate plating removal. Don't know about current rolling stock, but a lot of the older ones had chrome plated brass wheels & the steel wires will eat right through that.
Your new section looks very interesting, and of course, your layout ideas / tutorials based on your real world experience is very much appreciated. Thanks!
Great way to start the morning with coffee and another Seaboard Central tutorial, but since I'm watching this on a Sunday afternoon, I'm doing so while imbibing a Gin & Tonic with lemon. ;) LOL
Hey Tim, It's been a while. I'm all caught up though, Been busy working on my layout..... trying to look like yours LOL. seriously. Good info on the couplers. Your layout is always on the RISE. GOOD SHOW!!!
Great 👍 layout video 📹 as usual Tim qa can you explain what cars are needed for a mow train 🚆 and how 🤔 to use it and stage it in a ops session 😀 thank you sr
Great video as always! I am getting ready to install my first blue point switch machine. Watched your installation video numerous times and it’s very helpful. Where is the best source for the switch machines and other supplies?
Brilliant progress. By the way, have you looked into "Wago" connectors, or Wago "clone" connectors? They are real nice for model railway wiring. Especially if you need multiple wires all joined together like your yard lights.
I would like to see more of this type of video. It’s great to learn how you/others do things! Another great video, but I do have a question: I know you add extra weight to your cars-do you have any problems with cars like empty flat cars, gondolas and open top hoppers where it is difficult to add extra weight, running with the heavier cars? Or do you have a way of adding extra weight to them? Thanks!
Thanks! I try to add weight everywhere I can that can’t be seen when the cars are on the tracks. Some cars are tricky and you have to think of inventive ways or use different products. I hope to go over this in a future video. But, that being said, I haven’t had any issues with the lighter cars being mixed in with the heavier cars. I actually believe in a train they run better because the heavier cars keep the train stretched out.
Hi Tim, thanks for another good, informative video. The modeling information shared is enhanced by your knowledge and first hand experience of the Prototype and please keep these vids coming. All of the info. and details concerning the A20 scene are good to learn about - ideas that I might never have thought of. The Coupler and Wheel info. was good too and as usual have made reference notes (including the episode date) The August 24 edition of Model Railroader magazine, finally arrived at my local Newsagent, 15th August 24 - about right for the UK. Have you written any more since? I have not yet seen the September edition, but when I start rebuilding my Layout, I will definitely be using the method of Track-bed Ballasting you describe. I wish I had known of it, when I first started-out. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for the comment. I do have a couple more articles coming out. One is supposed to be in the 2025 Model Railroad Planning issue. The other is about the new layout and should come out in a future issue of Model Railroader but I don’t know when. Stay tuned!
Do the tie cars have all ties to the car bottom or are they on a plastic shelf so you only need about a two or three tie depth? Re trucks, most cars I buy have trucks with conical axle ends, so I replace the entire truck with a 0.088 axle and rotating bearing one. I have found that many car brands have non-NMRA bolsters and need considerable work to install new trucks at the right height. Has this happened to you? I guess on your sharper curves the shorter Kadee #153's are not feasible. Really admire your new addition, especially the lighting.
The ties are glued to the wooden paint stir sticks you can get at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They are removable. I showed how I made them in an update awhile back. The tightest curves I have are 24” radius in some industrial trackage. Most of my curves are around 30” or larger. Thanks!
I showed how on an earlier update. I attach them to cut to fit paint stir sticks you get at Home Depot or Lowe’s when you buy a gallon of paint. Makes them easily removable.
Nice layout and look forward to the videos you post and i going to have someone to design my Ho scale SCL track plan and my heart desire prototype the SCL and don’t much about prototype real railroad long gone - prototype freelance might be better
Thanks! You might want to focus on a place on the CSX that was former SCL so you can see the track arrangement. Google Earth is your friend. You can use it to find inspiration and back date it to the SCL time period.
Yes, I still use the paint mask for non-rotating cap wheels but this is so easy I might actually change. This method doesn’t require me to clean the axle points.
I remember when I first stumbled upon your channel and started watching your vids. I've been hooked ever since. I've always wanted to build a layout but I've always been intimidated after watching these. Also, I've never really had the room. But now I do, and I am thinking about doing a 4x6 layout so that I can learn the basics. I have no idea how to do any of it, so this will be interesting to say the least. I appreciate what you do and the inspiration that you have given me!!
Thanks! If I was starting out I would build a simple switching layout on a shelf around two or three walls with the benchwork about 18” deep and the height about 54” from the floor built using 1x3 lumber, 1/4” Birch plywood with a 1/2” pink foam insulation board on top. I’d use the new Walthers track and switches, an NCE DCC system and the ProtoThrottle of course! 😁 I’d use a ScaleTrains SD40-2 for my locomotive programmed correctly for the ProtoThrottle with a LokProgrammer. And I’d have an absolute blast. Good luck!
@@SeaboardCentral Yes, I think this is likely a much better idea than a 4x6. The problem with a 4x6 (or similar square-ish size) is that all you can really do is make trains go round and round, chasing their own EOTs. If you want a railfanning-style layout, that's fine, but if you want to do anything else, it quickly becomes limiting.
You’re in my top channels I keep up with as the best quality switching ops. I think I’ve been subbed to you for yearsssss now and glad to see you always keep active and love your industrial layout especially the motive power, I grew up with GATX geeps that basically have the same exact livery as your seaboard locos and I always enjoyed that.
Thanks! Glad you enjoy the action on the SC. Keep watching. More on the way!
I've been cleaning my wheelsets with a Dremel for a long time & it works great! Early on, I changed over to brass wire wheels to eliminate plating removal. Don't know about current rolling stock, but a lot of the older ones had chrome plated brass wheels & the steel wires will eat right through that.
That’s good to know
Your new section looks very interesting, and of course, your layout ideas / tutorials based on your real world experience is very much appreciated. Thanks!
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it and thanks for the donation! Stay tuned. More content on the way. Tim
Nice update Tim, great tips too!! I saw your articles in MR
and TRAINS digital, very cool!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
great vid thanks Tim. looking forward for more of your layout bring assembled also.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
thank you for detail video as great watching very time
Thank you for watching my videos!
Happy thanks giving!
It’s just around the corner. :)
Thanks for another fine video, with a few simple tips to enhance realism. Always enjoyable with Sunday morning coffee.
Thanks for watching!
Great way to start the morning with coffee and another Seaboard Central tutorial, but since I'm watching this on a Sunday afternoon, I'm doing so while imbibing a Gin & Tonic with lemon. ;) LOL
Fantastic share and the layout looks great realistic awesome share on rusting up the wheel flanges as well enjoy the rest of your day 😎🚂🫵
Thanks!
Cool. Looking very good.
Thanks!
Great looking video! Thanks for sharing this with us!
Thanks for watching!
The main problem with these videos is I keep thinking.... "I should try making a layout one day..."
Great work as always, keep it up.
Thanks! The day you do, my job is done. :)
Hey Tim, It's been a while. I'm all caught up though, Been busy working on my layout..... trying to look like yours LOL. seriously. Good info on the couplers. Your layout is always on the RISE. GOOD SHOW!!!
Thanks! I appreciate it.
I found using a mini brush works great for painting wheels. They fit right inside the hib.
Yes I’ve done that too. Works great.
On our short lines, NS relays are our main line ties… one man’s trash is another man’s treasure
This is true.
I would definitely like to see more videos like this Tim.
Thanks! Stay tuned. More on the way.
It looks good and it looks real
Thanks!
Very nice layout update also I now live closer to ATN railroad and I just found out that they have a Illinois Central switcher/SW9 or sum like that😅😊
Thanks! That’s cool. I ran an old SW9 years ago when I worked for a shortline. Okay for the yard but rough riding on the road.
Thank You for sharing I learned a few things
Glad to help. Thanks for watching
AMAZING... LOVE IT!!! - Gary
Thanks Gary!
Magnificent 👏👍
Thanks!
Great 👍 layout video 📹 as usual Tim qa can you explain what cars are needed for a mow train 🚆 and how 🤔 to use it and stage it in a ops session 😀 thank you sr
Thanks! I’ll try to address it in an upcoming video.
Great video as always! I am getting ready to install my first blue point switch machine. Watched your installation video numerous times and it’s very helpful. Where is the best source for the switch machines and other supplies?
Thanks! I’ve bought them from Midwest Model Railroad and Micro Mark. You might want to do a Google Search to see what else comes up.
Brilliant progress. By the way, have you looked into "Wago" connectors, or Wago "clone" connectors? They are real nice for model railway wiring. Especially if you need multiple wires all joined together like your yard lights.
Thanks! Never heard of them. The ones by Woodland Scenics are very easy to work with. They designed a pretty simple system that works pretty good.
A Q-tip dampened with isopropyl alcohol is plenty enough to take paint off the wheel treads -- no need to risk damaging the car with the rotary tool.
Good info
I would like to see more of this type of video. It’s great to learn how you/others do things! Another great video, but I do have a question: I know you add extra weight to your cars-do you have any problems with cars like empty flat cars, gondolas and open top hoppers where it is difficult to add extra weight, running with the heavier cars? Or do you have a way of adding extra weight to them? Thanks!
Thanks! I try to add weight everywhere I can that can’t be seen when the cars are on the tracks. Some cars are tricky and you have to think of inventive ways or use different products. I hope to go over this in a future video. But, that being said, I haven’t had any issues with the lighter cars being mixed in with the heavier cars. I actually believe in a train they run better because the heavier cars keep the train stretched out.
@@SeaboardCentral It’ll be interesting to see that in a future video! Thanks!
Hi Tim, thanks for another good, informative video. The modeling information shared is enhanced by your knowledge and first hand experience of the Prototype and please keep these vids coming. All of the info. and details concerning the A20 scene are good to learn about - ideas that I might never have thought of. The Coupler and Wheel info. was good too and as usual have made reference notes (including the episode date)
The August 24 edition of Model Railroader magazine, finally arrived at my local Newsagent, 15th August 24 - about right for the UK. Have you written any more since? I have not yet seen the September edition, but when I start rebuilding my Layout, I will definitely be using the method of Track-bed Ballasting you describe. I wish I had known of it, when I first started-out. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for the comment. I do have a couple more articles coming out. One is supposed to be in the 2025 Model Railroad Planning issue. The other is about the new layout and should come out in a future issue of Model Railroader but I don’t know when. Stay tuned!
Do the tie cars have all ties to the car bottom or are they on a plastic shelf so you only need about a two or three tie depth? Re trucks, most cars I buy have trucks with conical axle ends, so I replace the entire truck with a 0.088 axle and rotating bearing one. I have found that many car brands have non-NMRA bolsters and need considerable work to install new trucks at the right height. Has this happened to you? I guess on your sharper curves the shorter Kadee #153's are not feasible. Really admire your new addition, especially the lighting.
The ties are glued to the wooden paint stir sticks you can get at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They are removable. I showed how I made them in an update awhile back. The tightest curves I have are 24” radius in some industrial trackage. Most of my curves are around 30” or larger. Thanks!
How do you make your tie loads and tie piles?
I showed how on an earlier update. I attach them to cut to fit paint stir sticks you get at Home Depot or Lowe’s when you buy a gallon of paint. Makes them easily removable.
Nice layout and look forward to the videos you post and i going to have someone to design my Ho scale SCL track plan and my heart desire prototype the SCL and don’t much about prototype real railroad long gone - prototype freelance might be better
Thanks! You might want to focus on a place on the CSX that was former SCL so you can see the track arrangement. Google Earth is your friend. You can use it to find inspiration and back date it to the SCL time period.
Oh, you don't spray wheels now with the paint mask ???
What happened to make you change your method??
Yes, I still use the paint mask for non-rotating cap wheels but this is so easy I might actually change. This method doesn’t require me to clean the axle points.
🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃👍
Choo choo to you too!