Retired farmer here, years ago I ran a Case 4890 4 wheel drive tractor. Was about 300hp, fairly big for that time. That engine make was a Scania, (Swedish company, still makes tons of diesels). Point is, that engine used a centrifuge to clean the oil. It wasn't a big canister, probably about 8 inches in diameter, and 6 or 7 inches tall had just a couple of small jets that propelled the spinner. It was in the pressurized oil line from the regular crankcase oil pump. The oil continually circulated through that centrifuge. I ran 200 hour change intervals on that oil, and would scrape about a 1/4" layer of hard carbon/contaminates off the inside wall of the centrifuge can with each change. The only paper element in the whole system was a small inline oil filter going up to the turbo. Never had a speck of trouble with that engine, and I have no idea how much money was saved not buying large throw away oil filters. Was a great system, centrifuges do an amazing job..
I have a superduty with a 7.3 and I bought a centrifugal oil filter from diesel craft and was amazed at how much crap would come out of my oil and my oil stayed looking fresh right around 150 hrs of operation it would start showing it’s age prior to the filter I would change my oil and as soon as I started engine to ck for leaks my oil was black did even look like I changed it i took samples of my oil at 50,100,150 ,200 I usually change my oil between 250-275 hrs now I go to 500 hrs cause of all the samples I did but the oil analysis lab which was Cat told me that I should change my oil filter around 500 hours so I change it all I use rottella 15-40 now every diesel has a centrifugal filter there’s a lot of different manufacturers
@@jkmcp45 Thanks for your input Sir, I think your experience with the 7.3 would match up pretty close with samples from my old Case. I too sent in oil samples back in the day, and the results indicated I was erring well on the side of safety. Of course I was buying oil in 55 gallon drums for all of my diesel engines and the price back then was just over $210 a barrel! Quite a difference now. (That was Rotella 15-40). Anyway it was very cheap insurance for engines that worked so hard in unfriendly conditions. Good luck with your 7.3, I had two of them too. Good engines.
@@Sky_vulpes Hi, the centrifuge style filter was standard on the Case 4890 and 4894 models with Scania engines. Those were the biggest tractors that they made. Most all of the smaller Cases used a regular Case built engine, 504 cubes, both turboed and naturally aspirated. They topped out at around 250 or so hp, the Scania engine I had was rated at 300. I don't know if they still use the centrifuge system on their new engines (Scania), my experience was in the 1980's. I can't imagine that they abandoned that system, Swedish company.
I use centrifuges at work. You can get better results and less waist if you recirculate your oil through continually. Each pass through the centrifuge will take more of the particulates from the fluids. The units I work on have integrated scrapers and are a much higher volume inverted type. The thickness of the fluid will effect how fast the particles fall out of the solution. I like your spatula scraper idea. This is a really great video.
Awesome thanks for sharing! I've ran my gasoline engine off of vaporized used motor oil. The vaporization process is done by using the exhaust heat coming out of the engine after combustion and submerging the exhaust heat exchanger in the used motor oil. At 500+ degrees F the exhaust temp. reaches it work great to run many different kinds of dirty fuel. The vaporizer is basically a oil or fuel distiller. Temperatures get hot enough that when vaporizing gasoline you won't have any leftovers or sludge buildup.
Diesel Ramcharger Vaporizer is correct. The exhaust temps aren't cracking the long chain hydrocarbons, only changing them from a liquid to a gas. You need either higher temps or a catalyst to crack them as a gasifier would.
overclockedamd123 1 gallon diesel = 139,200 BTU I run 5 gallon batches and it takes 30 minutes to spin the oil down. Clamped centrifuge with Fluke and running at 15 amps x 240 volts = 3600 watts/2 = 1800 watts to run a batch ( made via generator running the oil). 5x139,000= 696,000 BTUs = 203kW So I get 203,000 watts of transportation energy for 1800 watts of electricity. Are you kidding me? Oil that was being thrown away producing thousands of free miles and loads of electrical power.
It gets better. the lower the flow rate, the LESS power required by the motor. You can very often adjust down the voltage to the motor with a Variac, and reduce the current to the motor, as well as the voltage. A lightly loaded motor can run MUCH more efficiently, with less supply voltage. Use a clamp style amp meter, drop the voltage, and look for minimum current. (If the voltage is too low, the current will start to increase again) The motor will run much cooler, allowing for extended run times.
It actually doesn't get thrown away if you take it to a legitimate waste oil drop-off. There are refineries that take it and process it into propane, diesel fuel, and asphalt. But yeah I agree -- why give it away for free to the refineries when you can use it yourself with a little effort
When spinning oil, the lower the flow rate, the better. (I recommend ~3-5 Min. per gallon) It gives fine particulate matter more time to settle out to the outer edge of the bowl. Another thing to try, is to heat the oil, to make it less viscous, allowing particulate matter to settle out more quickly. Diesel fuel can actually flow a little faster, because of its low viscosity.
@@mryoung8586 Agreed, especially since you need to filter out much finer particulate matter, because of the tight clearances in a diesel injection system!
Great stuff 775, now please experiment with running a diesel engine on woodgas with a pilot injection of straight wmo, then I will be impressed. That would be 100% free fuel diesel. Thanks and keep up the good work!
There was a test done in South Africa using Massey Ferguson farm tractors and veggie oil. They may have even tried WMO.. It's been years since I read the article but I'm quite confident it could be found on line. The end result was a reduced life expectancy for the injection pump. It has to do with lubricity, sulfur, the lack thereof. The clearances between the plunger and barrel are a fraction of 1/1000 of an inch. Modern ultra low sulfur diesel isn't even good for an older injector pump (additives are available) So you really have to crunch the numbers...
I've been testing different oil and no matter how many times I clean Wmo even at 10 minutes a gallon with a heater and same centrifuse that you have and it still clogs the injector on my 98 VW TDI, but runs perfect on vegetable oil.
Try automatic transmission fluid, instead of used engine oil. The solution to your problem, might be solved by diluting the oil with more diesel fuel. I wouldn't try running on straight oil. (Too viscous)
Spinning it is a good way to remove the majority of particulates. To treat the dissolved moisture and acids, run it thru a 2 micron "toilet roll" style filter, the cellulose chemically traps water and acids. Lastly blend with diesel, i think Caterpillar specifies 1.5% waste oil to diesel.
Will remove particles but wont remove dissolved varnish from old diesel fuel. That is what will gum up fuel injectors and rings when you use it in your engine. You need to distill it to get rid of that sticky stuff.
engineer 775 & John D I used to have a 10HP cream seperator which ran at 6000 RPM! The transmission oil centrifuge in my Agco tractor would spin the colour out of transmission fluid to the point it was hard to see on the dip stick so wonder if you should increase speed of centrifuge??
I was hoping to get a shot of the underside of the lid. It looks like the oil enters the rotor not at the center, but near the center as close as possible but not so close it hits the drain holes. I am sure you don't want oil entering the rotor too close to the circumference because then the old oil entering the rotor could float on the oil flowing over the dam because it is spinning at 6Gs.
Howdy Scott, thanks for the video. This black Sirup in he bucket looks like the Stuff I drink every moning before breakfast. Have you Sneaked again in my kitchen, hands off my coffee machine...
+dufusrunescape 50/50 is the best and it makes good power. another way of doing it that doesnt take much filtering is with gasoline blending which forces over 90% of the contaminates out of solution
I run 50/50 oil diesel mix in my case 830 tractor never had an issue I have a online filter on my transfer pump from the drum I change every 6 months to a year
i ran a old ford idi 7.3l on waste motor oil that i only ran through a 1micron sock. it was always clean oil from very recent oil changes mostly from other diesels. some gas. some ATF. i usually only blended it about 15-35% with diesel and didnt drive it around town on light throttle. when i towed i used it and you could feel the slight power increase. also did not smoke just smelled like burnt oil. never had an issue in 2yrs driving that truck. never changed a fuel filter. drove it all over west coast. sold it years ago.
Nice system, but I was a little surprised at the cost. I was thinking about $1000. It does looks high quality. I guess if you have numerous diesel engines, it would pay for itself. For me, I will just put that oil in my waster oil boiler.
Cool idea. How much "junk" came out of the old diesel fuel? Did you run that in your car? Great idea to not let anything go to waste. Thanks for the video.
May I make a few suggestions? I have been using my centerfuse for four months which I also purchased from Steve at US Filter Max. You need the heater he sells and run it between 160-200 degrees to remove all moisture. As is goes out, I use a mixing tank which I purchased from Northern catalog. The ratio to make diesel fuel is 20% gasoline to 80% used motor oil. My recipe is: 16 gallons of used motor oil, 2 gallons of diesel, 2 gallons of gasoline, and four ounces of acetone. It works great! Over 10,000 miles on two different vehicles. One scientist says you can go up to 35% gasoline but the more gas you use the higher the temperature increases. It takes me about 2.5 hours to make 20 gallons. You can see mine at Jeanie McKean's youtube. Thank you.
Hello Richard, what type of engine are you running your fuel through? Common Rail? earlier engine with traditional rotary pump. I have heard that acids remain in the Oil. What's your take?
I filter 55 gal. of waste oil in a three phase filter setup useing a 24v Holly cintrifugal fuel pump mounted above the tank of my truck or a hand crank pump in about an hour or so, I can also use the hand pump as the lift pump to run the truck if the Holly fails. (need a copilot to run hand pump) I mix filtered waste oil with fresh diesel or gasoline just to thin it out a bit and burn it in my 1972 M35A2 multi fuel Deuce and a half military truck witch also has a three phase filtration system. I can run my filtration system in a grid down situation, I can also run it from source to tank if needed. I costs a bit more but I'm worth it.
You should be able to start the centrifuge with water, once water starts coming out of the good hose it is time to start adding oil. The contaminants will then get in the water for easy disposal.
i'd love to see ideas for those on a really tight budget to make a centrifuge. could you use something like an old washing machine and do some work with the drum? when I said tight budget lol, I mean tight lol, probably a few trips to the scrap yards..
That's an impressive centrifuge. How many GPH will it do? I bought mine from a company in Canada many years ago.. Because I am doing really crapped up oil I usually do 3 passes which at 55gph isn't all that bad. I do love not paying for diesel fuel.
I was thinking the same thing as Mindover Power, That if you rigged up a gear box and hand crank to it you could omit the electrical need all together.
That is a great system however the 240V requirement is a bummer. It would be interesting to see if you could power the centrifuge with a 12 or 24V DC motor that could be run from batteries or solar.
12 volt DC industrial motors for continuous use are readily available. Scotts make good permanent magnet carbon brush motors, that will turn the speeds you want at what ever supply voltage you want. They make motors that range from 12 volts all the way up to 96 volts DC.
use motor oil and 10% gas. it will run great. add diesel if you want to clean it up a bit, but it's not really needed. been running this for 10 years. I don't use a centrifuge, after mixing with gas, the oil can be sent threw a 10 micron bag filter and run.
Bonnie Flory BULLSHIT. We take the insulation off water heaters, paint em black and put them on the roof round these parts. no shortage of hot ass water!
Wash the oil with water use neodium magnets in the bottom of the drums ‘when the oil separates from the water drain off then heat the oil before it goes through the milli micron filters before the centrifuge .dont forget to line the centrifuge with a piece of paper all the crap sticks to it so you remove the paper and replace it each time
Believe me, you will not see anything. We use a Alva Laval to clean around 1000 liters of motor oil per day. The Alva Laval has a viewing glass too look at the drum spinning. With motor oil you cannot see shit! Oil everywhere!
How do you know how clean it is? Have you had it tested for particulates? Seems to me that without a lab check you are taking a big risk with expensive machinery. The car might run fine on it, but for how long? A lot of faith needed here so far. Do a couple of batches differently and send it for a test (Finning Tractor -and probably others - does them pretty cheaply). Cheers JB
Gerry S are you stupid? This is not dope fiend science. Viscosity, BTUs per pound, particulate counts? Really? Listen to him! Clearly understands how to educate as well as propagate an ideal.
@@elwoodrife1982 If stupidity is trying something like this the first time, seeing if your car will run on it and claiming as a success qualifies, yes I would be stupid. He didn't mention how actually clean it was....just because it got a bit of grit the size you can feel does not mean it is clean. He did say it depends on how fast the oil goes through the centrifuge, but he didn't test it to find out what works. It needs to go into the car at a maximum of 10 micron, preferably 5 - you can't feel that. When I do it I run it through a bag filter afterwards just to be sure. I wouldn't trust this careless guy with anything of mine.
@@dansw0rkshop Unfortunately I am not so rich that I can afford to replace or rebuild and engine in a tractor, Passat or generator needlessly....nor would i want to spend the time just to save $20 to send the oil away for testing on the first round or two.
enjoyed the video. for a WMO recycling project I want to install a brass bulkhead into a barrel so I can control the draining from the bottom to the centrifuge. I figure the brass will hold up better than plastic. it comes with a washer but will it seal better if I use something like JB Weld on it? or is it unnecessary? I'm concerned about the effect of petroleum on the bulkhead and seal. thank you for any assistance you can provide.
Used motor oil works better if you use gasoline instead of diesel fuel to mix.. i run 10 gallons of oil to 1 gallon of regular 87 octane gasoline.. thins out the oil to a similar viscosity as diesel fuel, and it burns cleaner than just oil/diesel mix.. and the gasoline keeps injectors clean
I'm making a centrifuge myself, but I asked you last month; Will a thermal cracking unit do a better job? I've heard a centrifuge wont separate an emulsified oil- water mix, is that true?
Ihave seen on you tube somewhere of some one using two 55 gallon drums.Onm One the temperature was raised to the temperature of a cars radiator fluid. The second barrel was connected to a centrifuge at around 20,000 rpm.He would then make three passes. From there he would add the apropriate amount of acid lye mixture or used it as straight veggie oil.
Since I'm looking to go the centrifuge route...might get one of the small $150+ ones first since don't need big batches...but have seen a few home made centrifuges...one uses an angle grinder. If have...or a friend has...the mechanical skill or want to try it yourself...home made is certainly doable. Just study a cutaway diagram so the layout is correct.
@TOTALITARIAN PLANDDEMIC GOVOMENTALSS.AGENDA12 I've seen the homemade CFs on here people made out of torque converters. Unfortunately no real detail. I have one of the 55gal//hr pressurized CF units now. But as soon as a free torque converter turns up a single-pass gravity fed unit would be nice.
Goes to show that most oil filters don't work worth a crap. Very few filters will filter all of the time as most of the oil is just bypassed. There are a few that really filter but you pay top dollar for them but they are all reusable after being cleaned.
Dude you have it exactly ass backwards, the more viscous the slower it needs to flow to have more time in the bowl. It takes longer to sling dirt through thick oil.
You know those metal screen type coffee filters you can get at the grocery store? I wonder if you have tried using them to screen out and clean your oil so that the oil might then be reused for some sorts of applications (not sure what). The metal screen is very fine so I think it might work quite well for tiny particulates in the oil; also you can put a button magnet on it to help hold any iron particles in the oil, perhaps. I have yet to try it but it seemed like a fun experiment when I thought of it a while back... Thank you.
What other treatments do you need to do to waste oil, especially when you are getting it from someone else and aren't sure of the contents? For example do you have to heat it or add some kind of drying agent to get rid of water (this happens when preparing biodiesel since frozen food gets put fried in veggie oil)?
HA!!! LOWES got a free ad there hahaha cool video, we had 6 stave oil cleaners on our ship when I was in the navy. I guess you would say that is a single stage cool though
Hey buddy great to recycle waste motor oil!! Diesel here in the people socialist republic of Kaliforniastan is 6 bucks a gallon. I need to look into doing what ya do. Thanks for sharing!
Quick question: I've used Bluegrass Fuel Systems with a 10 micron filter. Their system implements 'beads' that soak in used oil for a time that absorb water, antifreeze, etc.. that might have contaminated the used oil.... Is this is a non-issue or what?
At the low flow rate needed for effective precipitation, I would recommend rigging it to a bicycle crank set, so you can pedal for 30 minutes or so. I'm lazy.....Which MOTOR should I use?
This system looks great and simple. I have one of the little dieselcraft type centrifuges that have no motor. Do they work good enough for small batches of wmo?. I’ve had it a long time and want to use it. I also have a new gear pump I bought for it years ago hoping it would work ok in this application. Does anyone know how much pressure I will need to spin the centrifuge the best speed. I think I also bought an adjustable return line pressure valve to control the pressure to the centrifuge. It’s all been in boxes for about 7 years as I’ve moved like 5 times. I’m tired of carrying this stuff around so need to use it or loose it. Thanks
doesn't a standard 120 v circular saw motor pull about 15 amps ac and run at8,000 to 10,000 r.p.m.? how would that be for a direct drive motor? the only thing i could see that might bring a problem would be spin up. just sayin.
The faster the spin rate, the higher the allowable flow rate. A high spin rate is also more effective for more viscous oils like heavy weight engine oil, or gear lube. For diesel fuel, your hand cranked separator would actually work, owing to the low viscosity. (similar to cow's milk)
Why does it look like you have more oil than you started with? Your blue bucket looked like a 5 gallon, and your 2 drain buckets also look like 5 gallon buckets. Did I miss something. Great channel.
All this is doing is altering consistency, after doing a Centrifuge youre better to go get an air intake filter £10 , put elevated flat supported each end by to sticks over plastic storage container for $5, and pour away. But even after that it has still ability to create sludge throughout fuel system after few months, also some newer diesels have a an infra red sensor in the fuel line if it detects any black diesel it cuts the engine out = which is expensive procedure to fix. Fuel tanks are already filled with layer of dirt, then adding this in is not good idea.
mruler360 Yes. As a technical exercise to prove that old engine oil can be used to power diesel vehicles; this is interesting. As a means to produce usable amounts of motive power, the most efficient means should be sought. Solar power is not free. It is a diffuse and unreliable energy source, that requires considerable financial and energy investment to realise. My concern with a lot of these 'green' solutions, is that the distortion of subsidies can lead to a misallocation of resources. A misallocation of resources leads to the impoverishment of society. This is why socialists always drive everything they touch into the ground! Not that I'm suggesting this guy's a socialist. How he chooses to spend his time and money are his business.
There may or may not be a net energy gain, but not all sources of energy cost the same amount. If he gets free engine oil and uses a little electricity at 9 or 10 cents per KWH...he's getting usable fuel for his vehicle for the cost of the electricity. Since the truck is not an EV, he can't plug it directly into an outlet and fill the tank to get the fuel. The most efficient means to power a diesel truck pulling a trailer full of horses, or logs, or whatever is not the point. And diesel power IS the most efficient solution for him anyway! So, the next salient point would be to minimize fuel cost which is the point of this video. Not every energy transaction needs to be carbon neutral, net energy gain, or "green". Sometimes it is just about saving a buck....
I built mine out of PVC pipe. Its just a piece of pipe with capped ends that have nipples in them. Another capped pipe fills the hole in the middle. Oil flows in one end, threw the TP an out the other. I think you can still buy them though . Frantz is the name of the company that makes them.
My like is 911, this morning I happened to look at the clock at 911. I watched some videos and found out this happens to other people too. I'm gonna subscribe, this comment is just to remember why.
suggestion: do tutorial on how to turn pork fat into biodiesel. I'd also like to see someone other than "mrteslonian" turn a wood gasifier's tar into gasoline :)
Duramax changed something after 2006 that wont let it run on it. GM added a optical sensor to the 6.5 in 1994 that makes it require clear fuel to run. Anything before the mid 90s should run on it mixed 50/50. 100% can be ran in most but they get hard to start. Its also illegal in most states to run it as a road fuel. Tax evasion for failure to pay road tax. Same as buying farm fuel.
Anything that is not mechanically injected would probably have issues, especially modern common-rail engines...orifices are too small and too many electric gismos. So, mid 90's is about right, I think dodge had 12 valve p-pump up to '98 so that should be ok too.
RebelCowboySnB I know this is an old post but used oil collected for free has no tax obligations also taxes were paid when the original person purchased it if you pay for wmo then you may be required to pay road tax but it probably falls under double taxation then
Not very clear here, you kind of glossed over how this oil is supposed to be used....can you 1) use the resulting "diesel fuel" by pouring it directly into the fuel tank of your old truck or generator or 2) do you have to mix this "desel fuel" with "real diesel fuel" in order to basically supplement that fuel, or in other words, reduce the cost/amount of "real diesel fuel" that you need to buy? It would be great if you could use the stuff straight, but it is less useful if it is just like making your own ethanol which in most cases only gives you a 10% "supplement" that you have to add real gas to.
focodiesel its also a way to frag your pump and destroy your engine. Centrifuged oil is not clean, especially after a single pass through a fuge like this. You want to see what a real centrifuge looks like? Go on a navy ship, find the turbine generators and look at the lube oil processor for that. Thats what it takes to get clean oil, not a spinning bowl :/
You're adding the oil too fast, it should take a minute or two to fill you can tell by the unchanged appearance of the oil, and how soon it gushed out, this process is a rapid dripping rate, not a gravity flow rate.
Retired farmer here, years ago I ran a Case 4890 4 wheel drive tractor. Was about 300hp, fairly big for that time. That engine make was a Scania, (Swedish company, still makes tons of diesels). Point is, that engine used a centrifuge to clean the oil. It wasn't a big canister, probably about 8 inches in diameter, and 6 or 7 inches tall had just a couple of small jets that propelled the spinner. It was in the pressurized oil line from the regular crankcase oil pump. The oil continually circulated through that centrifuge. I ran 200 hour change intervals on that oil, and would scrape about a 1/4" layer of hard carbon/contaminates off the inside wall of the centrifuge can with each change. The only paper element in the whole system was a small inline oil filter going up to the turbo. Never had a speck of trouble with that engine, and I have no idea how much money was saved not buying large throw away oil filters. Was a great system, centrifuges do an amazing job..
I have a superduty with a 7.3 and I bought a centrifugal oil filter from diesel craft and was amazed at how much crap would come out of my oil and my oil stayed looking fresh right around 150 hrs of operation it would start showing it’s age prior to the filter I would change my oil and as soon as I started engine to ck for leaks my oil was black did even look like I changed it i took samples of my oil at 50,100,150 ,200 I usually change my oil between 250-275 hrs now I go to 500 hrs cause of all the samples I did but the oil analysis lab which was Cat told me that I should change my oil filter around 500 hours so I change it all I use rottella 15-40 now every diesel has a centrifugal filter there’s a lot of different manufacturers
@@jkmcp45 Thanks for your input Sir, I think your experience with the 7.3 would match up pretty close with samples from my old Case. I too sent in oil samples back in the day, and the results indicated I was erring well on the side of safety. Of course I was buying oil in 55 gallon drums for all of my diesel engines and the price back then was just over $210 a barrel! Quite a difference now. (That was Rotella 15-40). Anyway it was very cheap insurance for engines that worked so hard in unfriendly conditions. Good luck with your 7.3, I had two of them too. Good engines.
@jkmcp45 where did you get that filter from ?
@@Sky_vulpes Hi, the centrifuge style filter was standard on the Case 4890 and 4894 models with Scania engines. Those were the biggest tractors that they made. Most all of the smaller Cases used a regular Case built engine, 504 cubes, both turboed and naturally aspirated. They topped out at around 250 or so hp, the Scania engine I had was rated at 300. I don't know if they still use the centrifuge system on their new engines (Scania), my experience was in the 1980's. I can't imagine that they abandoned that system, Swedish company.
@user-pk2fg8im4u that's a super cool concept very interesting
I use centrifuges at work. You can get better results and less waist if you recirculate your oil through continually. Each pass through the centrifuge will take more of the particulates from the fluids. The units I work on have integrated scrapers and are a much higher volume inverted type. The thickness of the fluid will effect how fast the particles fall out of the solution. I like your spatula scraper idea. This is a really great video.
Awesome thanks for sharing!
I've ran my gasoline engine off of vaporized used motor oil. The vaporization process is done by using the exhaust heat coming out of the engine after combustion and submerging the exhaust heat exchanger in the used motor oil. At 500+ degrees F the exhaust temp. reaches it work great to run many different kinds of dirty fuel. The vaporizer is basically a oil or fuel distiller. Temperatures get hot enough that when vaporizing gasoline you won't have any leftovers or sludge buildup.
gasifier is what they call them.
Diesel Ramcharger Vaporizer is correct. The exhaust temps aren't cracking the long chain hydrocarbons, only changing them from a liquid to a gas. You need either higher temps or a catalyst to crack them as a gasifier would.
Eisen Faust Did not know that.
overclockedamd123 1 gallon diesel = 139,200 BTU
I run 5 gallon batches and it takes 30 minutes to spin the oil down.
Clamped centrifuge with Fluke and running at 15 amps x 240 volts = 3600 watts/2 = 1800 watts to run a batch ( made via generator running the oil).
5x139,000= 696,000 BTUs = 203kW
So I get 203,000 watts of transportation energy for 1800 watts of electricity.
Are you kidding me? Oil that was being thrown away producing thousands of free miles and loads of electrical power.
+engineer775 Practical Preppers watt-hours?
Hi sir, I am Hicham from Morocco. I want to communicate with me because I am interested in a machine like what I have done
It gets better. the lower the flow rate, the LESS power required by the motor. You can very often adjust down the voltage to the motor with a Variac, and reduce the current to the motor, as well as the voltage. A lightly loaded motor can run MUCH more efficiently, with less supply voltage. Use a clamp style amp meter, drop the voltage, and look for minimum current. (If the voltage is too low, the current will start to increase again) The motor will run much cooler, allowing for extended run times.
I used a variable speed woodworknng router 12000 _ 24000 rpm. For the motor.
It actually doesn't get thrown away if you take it to a legitimate waste oil drop-off. There are refineries that take it and process it into propane, diesel fuel, and asphalt. But yeah I agree -- why give it away for free to the refineries when you can use it yourself with a little effort
When spinning oil, the lower the flow rate, the better. (I recommend ~3-5 Min. per gallon) It gives fine particulate matter more time to settle out to the outer edge of the bowl. Another thing to try, is to heat the oil, to make it less viscous, allowing particulate matter to settle out more quickly. Diesel fuel can actually flow a little faster, because of its low viscosity.
a drip would be best
استمر
@@mryoung8586 Agreed, especially since you need to filter out much finer particulate matter, because of the tight clearances in a diesel injection system!
Hello
How many cycles does this device manage per minute?
Congrats for your videos! You do great job!
Thanks on behalf of all -almost- 15000 viewers!!
Great stuff 775, now please experiment with running a diesel engine on woodgas with a pilot injection of straight wmo, then I will be impressed. That would be 100% free fuel diesel. Thanks and keep up the good work!
There was a test done in South Africa using Massey Ferguson farm tractors and veggie oil. They may have even tried WMO.. It's been years since I read the article but I'm quite confident it could be found on line. The end result was a reduced life expectancy for the injection pump. It has to do with lubricity, sulfur, the lack thereof. The clearances between the plunger and barrel are a fraction of 1/1000 of an inch. Modern ultra low sulfur diesel isn't even good for an older injector pump (additives are available) So you really have to crunch the numbers...
+Mark Osborne Think your right, maybe best thing is to use the heat from burning this waste oil.
You are right and a centrifuge will take those lubricating particles like sulfur, ashes and many other useful things out with all the other junk.
People love free subsidies and it sounds a very good prospect
I've been testing different oil and no matter how many times I clean Wmo even at 10 minutes a gallon with a heater and same centrifuse that you have and it still clogs the injector on my 98 VW TDI, but runs perfect on vegetable oil.
Try automatic transmission fluid, instead of used engine oil. The solution to your problem, might be solved by diluting the oil with more diesel fuel. I wouldn't try running on straight oil. (Too viscous)
@@vincentrobinette1507 I tried that too and still gave me problems so I fix the problem by going back to ( WVO) waste vegetable oil and 20% gasoline.
Question: why not dilute the oil with diesel first, then the particulars will be separated easier
Spinning it is a good way to remove the majority of particulates. To treat the dissolved moisture and acids, run it thru a 2 micron "toilet roll" style filter, the cellulose chemically traps water and acids. Lastly blend with diesel, i think Caterpillar specifies 1.5% waste oil to diesel.
Will remove particles but wont remove dissolved varnish from old diesel fuel. That is what will gum up fuel injectors and rings when you use it in your engine. You need to distill it to get rid of that sticky stuff.
engineer 775 & John D I used to have a 10HP cream seperator which ran at 6000 RPM! The transmission oil centrifuge in my Agco tractor would spin the colour out of transmission fluid to the point it was hard to see on the dip stick so wonder if you should increase speed of centrifuge??
I was hoping to get a shot of the underside of the lid. It looks like the oil enters the rotor not at the center, but near the center as close as possible but not so close it hits the drain holes. I am sure you don't want oil entering the rotor too close to the circumference because then the old oil entering the rotor could float on the oil flowing over the dam because it is spinning at 6Gs.
Howdy Scott, thanks for the video.
This black Sirup in he bucket looks like the Stuff I drink every moning before breakfast. Have you Sneaked again in my kitchen, hands off my coffee machine...
love seeing the practical things you do.
farmers in my area use a fifty gallon drum with a gravity fed fuel filter attached. then mix 9 parts diesel fuel to 1 part used oil.
That works. I just wanted to get away from needing filters and this is it.
+dufusrunescape 50/50 is the best and it makes good power. another way of doing it that doesnt take much filtering is with gasoline blending which forces over 90% of the contaminates out of solution
I run 50/50 oil diesel mix in my case 830 tractor never had an issue I have a online filter on my transfer pump from the drum I change every 6 months to a year
Dave O'Brien what filter do you use?
6 years ago he was heard to say 'I hope my wife understands'.
Has anything been heard from this guy since?
She killed him with another spatula.
i ran a old ford idi 7.3l on waste motor oil that i only ran through a 1micron sock. it was always clean oil from very recent oil changes mostly from other diesels. some gas. some ATF. i usually only blended it about 15-35% with diesel and didnt drive it around town on light throttle. when i towed i used it and you could feel the slight power increase. also did not smoke just smelled like burnt oil. never had an issue in 2yrs driving that truck. never changed a fuel filter. drove it all over west coast. sold it years ago.
dsruddell That is great. Thanks for confirming the increase in power.
Nice system, but I was a little surprised at the cost. I was thinking about $1000. It does looks high quality. I guess if you have numerous diesel engines, it would pay for itself. For me, I will just put that oil in my waster oil boiler.
Cool idea. How much "junk" came out of the old diesel fuel? Did you run that in your car? Great idea to not let anything go to waste.
Thanks for the video.
May I make a few suggestions? I have been using my centerfuse for four months which I also purchased from Steve at US Filter Max. You need the heater he sells and run it between 160-200 degrees to remove all moisture. As is goes out, I use a mixing tank which I purchased from Northern catalog. The ratio to make diesel fuel is 20% gasoline to 80% used motor oil. My recipe is: 16 gallons of used motor oil, 2 gallons of diesel, 2 gallons of gasoline, and four ounces of acetone. It works great! Over 10,000 miles on two different vehicles. One scientist says you can go up to 35% gasoline but the more gas you use the higher the temperature increases. It takes me about 2.5 hours to make 20 gallons. You can see mine at Jeanie McKean's youtube. Thank you.
Hello Richard, what type of engine are you running your fuel through? Common Rail? earlier engine with traditional rotary pump. I have heard that acids remain in the Oil. What's your take?
I filter 55 gal. of waste oil in a three phase filter setup useing a 24v Holly cintrifugal fuel pump mounted above the tank of my truck or a hand crank pump in about an hour or so, I can also use the hand pump as the lift pump to run the truck if the Holly fails. (need a copilot to run hand pump) I mix filtered waste oil with fresh diesel or gasoline just to thin it out a bit and burn it in my 1972 M35A2 multi fuel Deuce and a half military truck witch also has a three phase filtration system. I can run my filtration system in a grid down situation, I can also run it from source to tank if needed. I costs a bit more but I'm worth it.
You should be able to start the centrifuge with water, once water starts coming out of the good hose it is time to start adding oil. The contaminants will then get in the water for easy disposal.
i'd love to see ideas for those on a really tight budget to make a centrifuge. could you use something like an old washing machine and do some work with the drum? when I said tight budget lol, I mean tight lol, probably a few trips to the scrap yards..
Saw a similar,but much larger system made from a blood centrifuge, recently. Works great.
That's an impressive centrifuge. How many GPH will it do? I bought mine from a company in Canada many years ago.. Because I am doing really crapped up oil I usually do 3 passes which at 55gph isn't all that bad. I do love not paying for diesel fuel.
Great show last night Scott. Looking forward to the whole series. olllllllllo
Thank you!
I was thinking the same thing as Mindover Power, That if you rigged up a gear box and hand crank to it you could omit the electrical need all together.
That is a great system however the 240V requirement is a bummer. It would be interesting to see if you could power the centrifuge with a 12 or 24V DC motor that could be run from batteries or solar.
12 volt DC industrial motors for continuous use are readily available. Scotts make good permanent magnet carbon brush motors, that will turn the speeds you want at what ever supply voltage you want. They make motors that range from 12 volts all the way up to 96 volts DC.
“This things gonna have so much power we had to hold it down with a tractor” 🤣🤣🤣🤣
use motor oil and 10% gas. it will run great. add diesel if you want to clean it up a bit, but it's not really needed. been running this for 10 years. I don't use a centrifuge, after mixing with gas, the oil can be sent threw a 10 micron bag filter and run.
@TOTALITARIAN PLANDDEMIC GOVOMENTALSS.AGENDA12 There are 100's of vid's on you tube
Excellent product for WVO. Just have to get the WVO to a much lighter viscosity by heating it to 200 degrees or more.
Filtermaxx has great heaters too. I am working on a solar heater for the oil next.
engineer775 Practical Preppers put it outside in a black drum. done.
The black drum will not get the temperature to 180 degrees or higher which is needed, unless you put in a glass house/enclosure.
Bonnie Flory BULLSHIT. We take the insulation off water heaters, paint em black and put them on the roof round these parts. no shortage of hot ass water!
Bonnie Flory but i do live in the desert, so....lol its 120 ambient in the shade out here. quite literally.
Wash the oil with water use neodium magnets in the bottom of the drums ‘when the oil separates from the water drain off then heat the oil before it goes through the milli micron filters before the centrifuge .dont forget to line the centrifuge with a piece of paper all the crap sticks to it so you remove the paper and replace it each time
I just bought a 4350 g centrifuge brand new delivered for $1490. It's got a 19 1/2" bowl and spins at 2800 rpm.
a clear - see through cover on centrifuge would allow us to view how it works better.
Believe me, you will not see anything. We use a Alva Laval to clean around 1000 liters of motor oil per day. The Alva Laval has a viewing glass too look at the drum spinning. With motor oil you cannot see shit! Oil everywhere!
How do you know how clean it is? Have you had it tested for particulates? Seems to me that without a lab check you are taking a big risk with expensive machinery. The car might run fine on it, but for how long? A lot of faith needed here so far. Do a couple of batches differently and send it for a test (Finning Tractor -and probably others - does them pretty cheaply).
Cheers
JB
Gerry S are you stupid? This is not dope fiend science. Viscosity, BTUs per pound, particulate counts? Really? Listen to him! Clearly understands how to educate as well as propagate an ideal.
A VW Passat? He addresses the topic of "expensive machinery", did you watch past the first 10 seconds?
@@elwoodrife1982 If stupidity is trying something like this the first time, seeing if your car will run on it and claiming as a success qualifies, yes I would be stupid. He didn't mention how actually clean it was....just because it got a bit of grit the size you can feel does not mean it is clean. He did say it depends on how fast the oil goes through the centrifuge, but he didn't test it to find out what works. It needs to go into the car at a maximum of 10 micron, preferably 5 - you can't feel that. When I do it I run it through a bag filter afterwards just to be sure. I wouldn't trust this careless guy with anything of mine.
@@dansw0rkshop Unfortunately I am not so rich that I can afford to replace or rebuild and engine in a tractor, Passat or generator needlessly....nor would i want to spend the time just to save $20 to send the oil away for testing on the first round or two.
Very cool!
enjoyed the video. for a WMO recycling project I want to install a brass bulkhead into a barrel so I can control the draining from the bottom to the centrifuge. I figure the brass will hold up better than plastic. it comes with a washer but will it seal better if I use something like JB Weld on it? or is it unnecessary? I'm concerned about the effect of petroleum on the bulkhead and seal. thank you for any assistance you can provide.
Used motor oil works better if you use gasoline instead of diesel fuel to mix.. i run 10 gallons of oil to 1 gallon of regular 87 octane gasoline.. thins out the oil to a similar viscosity as diesel fuel, and it burns cleaner than just oil/diesel mix.. and the gasoline keeps injectors clean
I'm making a centrifuge myself, but I asked you last month; Will a thermal cracking unit do a better job? I've heard a centrifuge wont separate an emulsified oil- water mix, is that true?
Ihave seen on you tube somewhere of some one using two 55 gallon drums.Onm One the temperature was raised to the temperature of a cars radiator fluid. The second barrel was connected to a centrifuge at around 20,000 rpm.He would then make three passes. From there he would add the apropriate amount of acid lye mixture or used it as straight veggie oil.
that is lye/methanol mixture.
Can using a faster RPM make the oil clean enough to be able to be used for more than just waste oil heater ???
I have used motor oil veg. oil and others for may years as fuel approximately 15 years now.
maybe mixing the oil and diesel before spinning would make filtering go faster because of the lower viscosity
2000 + price tag is OUTRAGES
johnholden2525 outrageous?
Since I'm looking to go the centrifuge route...might get one of the small $150+ ones first since don't need big batches...but have seen a few home made centrifuges...one uses an angle grinder. If have...or a friend has...the mechanical skill or want to try it yourself...home made is certainly doable. Just study a cutaway diagram so the layout is correct.
@TOTALITARIAN PLANDDEMIC GOVOMENTALSS.AGENDA12 I've seen the homemade CFs on here people made out of torque converters. Unfortunately no real detail. I have one of the 55gal//hr pressurized CF units now. But as soon as a free torque converter turns up a single-pass gravity fed unit would be nice.
Goes to show that most oil filters don't work worth a crap. Very few filters will filter all of the time as most of the oil is just bypassed. There are a few that really filter but you pay top dollar for them but they are all reusable after being cleaned.
Dude you have it exactly ass backwards, the more viscous the slower it needs to flow to have more time in the bowl. It takes longer to sling dirt through thick oil.
can you use synthetic oil for black diesel?
how is it going so far ? update ? thanks and I hope all is well god bless
Hello, good morning.
My name is Dario.
Here in Brazil, we don't have much of this type of equipment. Could you share the project?
What I want to know is how the centrifuge was constructed . Looks like a good idea. Just need to know what materials to use
I caught that it was cast aluminum from Steve Chastain. He's a genius foundryman like Dave Gingery.
I'm disappoint, was hoping for a miniature hydrocracker somewhere in this process.
You know those metal screen type coffee filters you can get at the grocery store? I wonder if you have tried using them to screen out and clean your oil so that the oil might then be reused for some sorts of applications (not sure what). The metal screen is very fine so I think it might work quite well for tiny particulates in the oil; also you can put a button magnet on it to help hold any iron particles in the oil, perhaps. I have yet to try it but it seemed like a fun experiment when I thought of it a while back... Thank you.
+Jay Dillon those are about a few hundred microns, centrifuging gets you down to under 1 micron.
What are your thoughts on an air powered type centrifuge ?? There's always a chance of not having power, so I was curious... Great Vid Sir !!
it's been a few years. are you still making black diesel?
What other treatments do you need to do to waste oil, especially when you are getting it from someone else and aren't sure of the contents? For example do you have to heat it or add some kind of drying agent to get rid of water (this happens when preparing biodiesel since frozen food gets put fried in veggie oil)?
Run this oil through a clay filter to brighten up and use 100% as fuel
hey fred i looked up clay filters.did you have one specifically in mind ?
HA!!! LOWES got a free ad there hahaha cool video, we had 6 stave oil cleaners on our ship when I was in the navy. I guess you would say that is a single stage cool though
Note to Hollywood Apocalypse Film Writers: Start including these diesel centrifuges in your scripts!
Wont acidity of engine lube oil attack fuel system parts?Or does centrifuge reduce acidity?
it would be cool to further this tech think about a micro version bolted to a 12v Cummins to filter engine oil
How much does it cost in time and electric does it come out to? Thanks
Hey buddy great to recycle waste motor oil!! Diesel here in the people socialist republic of Kaliforniastan is 6 bucks a gallon. I need to look into doing what ya do. Thanks for sharing!
Where where do you buy a centerfuse to make the dirty motor oil into clean diesel I am looking for a location to find where they sell these at
Quick question: I've used Bluegrass Fuel Systems with a 10 micron filter. Their system implements 'beads' that soak in used oil for a time that absorb water, antifreeze, etc.. that might have contaminated the used oil.... Is this is a non-issue or what?
What make the used oil so black? Metal particles? Are there gonna be long time damage to the engine if you burn that?
Is the left over sludge still suitable for use in a waste oil drip heater?
How much was that device
Would increasing the rpm’s be beneficial at all?
You need to open your own Jiffy Lube to be able to collect more used motor oil. Or perhaps you could bribe the owner of a local Jiffy Lube.
Is this unit still available ?no recent comments in like 4 years
Interesting.... Already thinking about a geared hand crank intead of an electric motor :)
Know anything about old fashioned cream separators?
Or hooked up to a bicycle
At the low flow rate needed for effective precipitation, I would recommend rigging it to a bicycle crank set, so you can pedal for 30 minutes or so. I'm lazy.....Which MOTOR should I use?
Thanks for sharing. Are most C/fuges like this usually 220volt or is there an even split w/ 120v ? - take care
Any updates? Very interesting system.
Shalom Aleichem.
Would "washing" also helped in getting out even more particulates?
Ratson haba b'shem YaHuah
good idea respect the wifys tools replace it and let her get another that she wants you will be happy
You can't introduce oil that fast to a center fuse it's got to be barely dripped in there
This system looks great and simple. I have one of the little dieselcraft type centrifuges that have no motor. Do they work good enough for small batches of wmo?. I’ve had it a long time and want to use it. I also have a new gear pump I bought for it years ago hoping it would work ok in this application. Does anyone know how much pressure I will need to spin the centrifuge the best speed. I think I also bought an adjustable return line pressure valve to control the pressure to the centrifuge. It’s all been in boxes for about 7 years as I’ve moved like 5 times. I’m tired of carrying this stuff around so need to use it or loose it. Thanks
@Paul Baker - Dieselcraft runs at 90 PSI max
doesn't a standard 120 v circular saw motor pull about 15 amps ac and run at8,000 to 10,000 r.p.m.? how would that be for a direct drive motor? the only thing i could see that might bring a problem would be spin up. just sayin.
Why would it have to spin so fast? Can't you just use a milk cream separator that is hand cranked?
LMAO
The faster the spin rate, the higher the allowable flow rate. A high spin rate is also more effective for more viscous oils like heavy weight engine oil, or gear lube. For diesel fuel, your hand cranked separator would actually work, owing to the low viscosity. (similar to cow's milk)
Why does it look like you have more oil than you started with? Your blue bucket looked like a 5 gallon, and your 2 drain buckets also look like 5 gallon buckets. Did I miss something. Great channel.
I think the white buckets are 2&1/2 gallons.
All this is doing is altering consistency, after doing a Centrifuge youre better to go get an air intake filter £10 , put elevated flat supported each end by to sticks over plastic storage container for $5, and pour away. But even after that it has still ability to create sludge throughout fuel system after few months, also some newer diesels have a an infra red sensor in the fuel line if it detects any black diesel it cuts the engine out = which is expensive procedure to fix. Fuel tanks are already filled with layer of dirt, then adding this in is not good idea.
nice air compressor!
thats cool stuff man! i bet it could dry a pair of wet socks in no time! lol
How much energy does the centrifuge use? Is there a net energy gain by doing this?
If it can be powered via a solar solution, would it really matter?
mruler360 Yes. As a technical exercise to prove that old engine oil can be used to power diesel vehicles; this is interesting. As a means to produce usable amounts of motive power, the most efficient means should be sought. Solar power is not free. It is a diffuse and unreliable energy source, that requires considerable financial and energy investment to realise. My concern with a lot of these 'green' solutions, is that the distortion of subsidies can lead to a misallocation of resources. A misallocation of resources leads to the impoverishment of society. This is why socialists always drive everything they touch into the ground!
Not that I'm suggesting this guy's a socialist. How he chooses to spend his time and money are his business.
There may or may not be a net energy gain, but not all sources of energy cost the same amount. If he gets free engine oil and uses a little electricity at 9 or 10 cents per KWH...he's getting usable fuel for his vehicle for the cost of the electricity. Since the truck is not an EV, he can't plug it directly into an outlet and fill the tank to get the fuel. The most efficient means to power a diesel truck pulling a trailer full of horses, or logs, or whatever is not the point. And diesel power IS the most efficient solution for him anyway! So, the next salient point would be to minimize fuel cost which is the point of this video. Not every energy transaction needs to be carbon neutral, net energy gain, or "green". Sometimes it is just about saving a buck....
I just run mine threw a toilet paper filter... One roll of scotts can do hundreds of gallons an costs less than a dollar.
I built mine out of PVC pipe. Its just a piece of pipe with capped ends that have nipples in them. Another capped pipe fills the hole in the middle. Oil flows in one end, threw the TP an out the other. I think you can still buy them though . Frantz is the name of the company that makes them.
My like is 911, this morning I happened to look at the clock at 911. I watched some videos and found out this happens to other people too. I'm gonna subscribe, this comment is just to remember why.
suggestion: do tutorial on how to turn pork fat into biodiesel. I'd also like to see someone other than "mrteslonian" turn a wood gasifier's tar into gasoline :)
@BRIAN BadondY biddly boh You are.
Hey, I'm building one of these ... what Motor should I use ??
Wow!
Would be interesting to run an oil analysis on the pre vs post oil. How does one know if their diesel engine is old enough to run on this mix?
Duramax changed something after 2006 that wont let it run on it. GM added a optical sensor to the 6.5 in 1994 that makes it require clear fuel to run. Anything before the mid 90s should run on it mixed 50/50. 100% can be ran in most but they get hard to start. Its also illegal in most states to run it as a road fuel. Tax evasion for failure to pay road tax. Same as buying farm fuel.
Anything that is not mechanically injected would probably have issues, especially modern common-rail engines...orifices are too small and too many electric gismos. So, mid 90's is about right, I think dodge had 12 valve p-pump up to '98 so that should be ok too.
RebelCowboySnB I know this is an old post but used oil collected for free has no tax obligations also taxes were paid when the original person purchased it if you pay for wmo then you may be required to pay road tax but it probably falls under double taxation then
Update???
Not very clear here, you kind of glossed over how this oil is supposed to be used....can you 1) use the resulting "diesel fuel" by pouring it directly into the fuel tank of your old truck or generator or 2) do you have to mix this "desel fuel" with "real diesel fuel" in order to basically supplement that fuel, or in other words, reduce the cost/amount of "real diesel fuel" that you need to buy? It would be great if you could use the stuff straight, but it is less useful if it is just like making your own ethanol which in most cases only gives you a 10% "supplement" that you have to add real gas to.
Anything above 50% mix is typically too smokey to warrant acceptable use, so yes it is a way to reduce diesel fuel costs but not eliminate.
focodiesel thanks
focodiesel its also a way to frag your pump and destroy your engine. Centrifuged oil is not clean, especially after a single pass through a fuge like this. You want to see what a real centrifuge looks like? Go on a navy ship, find the turbine generators and look at the lube oil processor for that. Thats what it takes to get clean oil, not a spinning bowl :/
You're adding the oil too fast, it should take a minute or two to fill you can tell by the unchanged appearance of the oil, and how soon it gushed out, this process is a rapid dripping rate, not a gravity flow rate.
What i do with the bad oil (Sludge)
took you long enough..... and then i see you had it sitting on the shelf all along
HOW MUCH DO THESE COST?
Are you still using your centrifuge?
The TDI Guy it's all setup but I haven't used it in over a year. Too many projects so little time.