The laser tube is installed. This thing is getting really close to making its first cuts. Is anyone else building a Y-400 or Y-1200 laser cutter? Leave a comment and say hello! Thanks for watching!
I am currently buying all the parts needed for the Y-1200. IRONICALLY...the only parcel that has gotten "lost" is the motors that I sourced HERE IN THE USA. ALL of my parts bundles from China have gotten here ok, LOL!
Just purchased the plans to build the Y-1200, and subsequently found your videos. Awesome work! I love some of the unique touches you've added. I'm going to borrow a few if you don't mind. lol I can't wait to go back and watch the rest of your videos!
A.C.-I’m as afraid of wiring as I am of Boo Radley in the corner, but you’re inspiring. The materials are so beautiful, this was fun to watch! I never knew, but now I do🎃
The idea from the original design is to have the gantry attached to the table top and separate from the outer frame so that the outer frame could possibly be removed for cleaning/access. Checkout Further Fabrication's YT channel for more info on the design philosophy.
Hi, Building a Y600. Already built one from Openbuilds, but I was a pain to get level, so I saw this a thought why not! so now I have to dismantle the new/old one to salvage all the parts! wish me luck. :)
I love your work. I have a few lasers, and struggle with many aspects of how they were built. Foam tape around the tube is one thing I have struggled with, and noticed you put foam around the tube. Over time that will compress, and your beam with be different. The newest laser I have uses an adjustable clamp to hold the tube in, and can be adjusted to make it perfect. I am sure with your skill you can make and print the same clamp and replace your foam tube holder spacers. Your laser is awesome!
Thanks for the tip! The part that wraps around the tube is more rubber-like than foam. It came with the tube so I just used it! But I do understand how having anything that is pliable around the tube could easily change the focus over time. I will monitor this and maybe I can make new mounts at some point!
What's the rear mounting bracket you're using for the controller panel (screwing in from the bottom around the 8:00 mark) - I see there are two slots on the back of mine that might accept something, but nothing came packaged with it, so it 's fairly wiggly in the printed controller panel backing plate.
Just wanted to let you know that I got my wiring done, and X & Y axes are working! I failed to set the dip switches before powering up for the first time, so there was a terrible sound coming from the motors on each boot, and it would stall out after reaching a certain speed. I ended up going with half amperage (2.03 RMS) on the X with 3200 pulses / rotation (16 microsteps, I believe) because the motor was getting *way* hotter than my 3d printer's, and full amperage (2.03 RMS) on the Y with the same pulses / rotation as X. Does that sound right to you? I figured out how to calibrate / save the step length and bounds, so I've got about a 440 x 600 work area if the air intake connector is facing rearwards (otherwise it'd hit the lead screw mounts) - I'm guessing it should be that way anyways since there are convenient holes for the air tube to go in the rear of the laser head assembly. As for wiring, I wired an EMI filter AC plug to some romex wire, and wired that to the first 24v power supply, and daisy-chained it from the first to the second - I hope that's kosher. How are your switches wired in relation to each power supply (I guess including the laser PS, too) - between the mains and the PS, or between the PS and the downstream components? I wish the docs were more verbose when it came to Ruida settings and switch / mains wiring... I've built and rebuilt a 3d printer from scratch, but this is just a tad more involved than I thought :) Sorry for all the questions!
Last question first... I don't have a switch for the power supplies other than the one main switch on the right side of my cabinet that turns power on for all the electronics. It is a black double household switch you can see in some of the videos. One switch turns on electronics and other turns on lower cabinet stuff like chiller and cabinet lights. I did not install EMI filters. Not sure if I need to. Seems fine so far without them. I'm working backwards through your questions :) So my work area is set in Lightburn to 420 x 580. I found that it is easier just to go a bit inside the "max" area I could possible move the nozzle. Just make sure you jog the nozzle everywhere and if you don't have collisions then you are good to go. There is no one right answer for the work size. One thing to beware of though is make sure if you leave the nozzle in the very back it can still home without a collision. I found my nozzle carriage ran into the laser tube mounts when homing if it starts from the back left corner! I don't know what exactly my settings are for the motors drivers but I do believe they are the same as Rob's pictures from the documentation EXCEPT for the Z axis which I pumped up the current. If I remember I'll snap a picture and post again with a link tomorrow.
@@acwrightdesign that's great, saves me from more wiring! Good call on homing starting points and not trying to squeeze every last mm out if the available work area. That does seem safer... I ordered my custom honeycomb work surface, and they jacked up the shipping - was close to $180 in total. Oh well! Pics would be nice if you get around to it, up to you! As always, you rock.
Hi mate, I like the work you have done on the mA facia which has influenced me to buy the cricut maker. Would you be willing to share your design files for the meter please or is that too cheeky to ask?
@@acwrightdesign Cheers A.C that is awesome mate, have you got the files for affinity designs, cross hairs and mA facia and I have got to get my head round the cricut machine so not sure how to get that cut out yet, really appreciate your time on this. Kind Regards Gaz
@@acwrightdesign so something like this would work ... one for a single 24v350w15a PSU and the other for the laser's PSU > www.amazon.com/dp/B08CDSXWXF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I'd then plug them into a surge protector along with my water cooler and air system
Thanks! I think I spent between $1500 and $2000 on this machine. I wasn't carefully tracking the expenses so I'm not certain but that is a good estimate.
@@gnafin Yeah I was a bit worried about ordering from AliExpress but my tube came very well packed and crated in a box. And the shipping time wasn't too bad. Good luck! I hope yours arrives OK!
@@gnafin The red wire came with my tube. I further insulated it with silicone tubing. I used "22 AWG 30kV silicone wire" for the black wire. I'm not sure the high voltage wire is strictly necessary for the ground wire but it is good insurance. I'll add a link in the description ^^.
Hey A.C. Wright, Great work on your laser cutter build. Looks awesome and super clean. I am currently building a Y-1200 model and I also have a prusa i3 mk3. I have a few questions... Do you have any tips on how you consistently get such clean prints on your prusa? could you share how you wired the three switches and explain each of their roles?
Also, could you explain how the wiring works for the red dot sight and the auto focus sensor? I appreciate you for taking the time for making these videos they have been super informative.l
It took me a bit of time to get the Prusa dialed in correctly. One thing that helped a ton was the Nylock nut mod and using Prusa Leveling Guide in OctoPrint to get a really flat bed. I highly recommend this if you have a Prusa i3 MK3!
I have ended up removing the auto focus sensor. I tried it and its just a pain in the butt. The red dot sight is just wired to a DPDT switch on the panel and a 5V power supply which you can see in the video. It is the small box near the stepper motor drivers.
@@acwrightdesign wow, thank you so much for the tips and tricks for the prusa. Im eager to try them out, just need to get the necessary parts. You dont have an emergency on/off for your laser cutter? And how do you turn your laser cutter on and off. As you can tell im just laser cutter newb trying to figure these things out. Also, How did you ground your frame to the table and is it necessary?
Nice and clean build! will you post the test video? BTW I am building a laser too! inspired from the Y1200, not totally identical :) One thing: I don't like the idea of having the mA-meter away from the tube... They are always 35'000 Volts flowing through the cables😅 I would put it just over the tube himself. Anyway beautiful video!
Awesome! Good luck with your build! I am editing part 4 of this series today and will have some footage of it in operation. :) It is my understanding that the mA meter goes on the negative side of the tube/power supply so the potential voltage should be close to zero or ground at the meter. Of course, I have grounded my frame just in case!
@@acwrightdesign Nice point🤔 my professor of physics at university once told that it was an agreement generally recognised, and the electrons in reality go in the opposite direction🤣 never found what is correct😅 Anyway, good tip grounding the whole structure 👍
![90W Laser Cutter From Scratch | Y-400 [Part 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P1Y3od-tom4/mqdefault.jpg)
![90W Laser Cutter From Scratch | Y-400 [Part 4]](/img/tr.png)
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![TEEDEE TADA - DIAMOND NARAKORN X LEGO LYKN [Special Dance Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QgtZedFeumA/mqdefault.jpg)
The laser tube is installed. This thing is getting really close to making its first cuts. Is anyone else building a Y-400 or Y-1200 laser cutter? Leave a comment and say hello! Thanks for watching!
I am currently buying all the parts needed for the Y-1200. IRONICALLY...the only parcel that has gotten "lost" is the motors that I sourced HERE IN THE USA. ALL of my parts bundles from China have gotten here ok, LOL!
Excellent. As others have said, the custom mA meter face is a great touch.
Thanks! That was fun to make!
Nice touch with the custom mA panel meter!
Thanks!
Just purchased the plans to build the Y-1200, and subsequently found your videos. Awesome work! I love some of the unique touches you've added. I'm going to borrow a few if you don't mind. lol I can't wait to go back and watch the rest of your videos!
Thanks! I don't mind :) Good luck with your build!
A.C.-I’m as afraid of wiring as I am of Boo Radley in the corner, but you’re inspiring. The materials are so beautiful, this was fun to watch! I never knew, but now I do🎃
Thanks Tina!
Why keep the the enclosure and the gantry apart? Wouldn't that make everything even more rigid and stable if you connected them together?
The idea from the original design is to have the gantry attached to the table top and separate from the outer frame so that the outer frame could possibly be removed for cleaning/access. Checkout Further Fabrication's YT channel for more info on the design philosophy.
Hi, Building a Y600. Already built one from Openbuilds, but I was a pain to get level, so I saw this a thought why not! so now I have to dismantle the new/old one to salvage all the parts! wish me luck. :)
Good luck!!
i hate to keep asking but your videos are great help. what LED's did you use? did they come with that tube they are in?
No problem! I'm here to help! I added a link in the description above for the LED lights. Yes, they are encased in plastic.
I love your work. I have a few lasers, and struggle with many aspects of how they were built. Foam tape around the tube is one thing I have struggled with, and noticed you put foam around the tube. Over time that will compress, and your beam with be different. The newest laser I have uses an adjustable clamp to hold the tube in, and can be adjusted to make it perfect. I am sure with your skill you can make and print the same clamp and replace your foam tube holder spacers. Your laser is awesome!
Thanks for the tip! The part that wraps around the tube is more rubber-like than foam. It came with the tube so I just used it! But I do understand how having anything that is pliable around the tube could easily change the focus over time. I will monitor this and maybe I can make new mounts at some point!
What's the rear mounting bracket you're using for the controller panel (screwing in from the bottom around the 8:00 mark) - I see there are two slots on the back of mine that might accept something, but nothing came packaged with it, so it 's fairly wiggly in the printed controller panel backing plate.
Well darn... I think you are missing the mounting hardware. Those parts came with my Ruida.
@@acwrightdesign oh man... I guess I can print a simple shim with some tabs that keeps it in place. That's lame.
Hi, congratulations, I've been wanting to do it for a long time too, give me some advice where to buy the tube and the lenses?
I ordered all the laser parts from Cloudray Laser (not sponsored). They have a website store and an AliExpress store. Good luck with your build!
@@acwrightdesign thank's, I have seen it too, very equipped for DIY, I have a doubt about which lenses do you recommend, or did you take?
@@pierluigispigoni6494 I believe my lens is 50.8mm. I'm not sure about the exact one I bought it has been so long ago
Just wanted to let you know that I got my wiring done, and X & Y axes are working! I failed to set the dip switches before powering up for the first time, so there was a terrible sound coming from the motors on each boot, and it would stall out after reaching a certain speed. I ended up going with half amperage (2.03 RMS) on the X with 3200 pulses / rotation (16 microsteps, I believe) because the motor was getting *way* hotter than my 3d printer's, and full amperage (2.03 RMS) on the Y with the same pulses / rotation as X. Does that sound right to you?
I figured out how to calibrate / save the step length and bounds, so I've got about a 440 x 600 work area if the air intake connector is facing rearwards (otherwise it'd hit the lead screw mounts) - I'm guessing it should be that way anyways since there are convenient holes for the air tube to go in the rear of the laser head assembly.
As for wiring, I wired an EMI filter AC plug to some romex wire, and wired that to the first 24v power supply, and daisy-chained it from the first to the second - I hope that's kosher. How are your switches wired in relation to each power supply (I guess including the laser PS, too) - between the mains and the PS, or between the PS and the downstream components? I wish the docs were more verbose when it came to Ruida settings and switch / mains wiring... I've built and rebuilt a 3d printer from scratch, but this is just a tad more involved than I thought :)
Sorry for all the questions!
Last question first... I don't have a switch for the power supplies other than the one main switch on the right side of my cabinet that turns power on for all the electronics. It is a black double household switch you can see in some of the videos. One switch turns on electronics and other turns on lower cabinet stuff like chiller and cabinet lights. I did not install EMI filters. Not sure if I need to. Seems fine so far without them.
I'm working backwards through your questions :) So my work area is set in Lightburn to 420 x 580. I found that it is easier just to go a bit inside the "max" area I could possible move the nozzle. Just make sure you jog the nozzle everywhere and if you don't have collisions then you are good to go. There is no one right answer for the work size. One thing to beware of though is make sure if you leave the nozzle in the very back it can still home without a collision. I found my nozzle carriage ran into the laser tube mounts when homing if it starts from the back left corner!
I don't know what exactly my settings are for the motors drivers but I do believe they are the same as Rob's pictures from the documentation EXCEPT for the Z axis which I pumped up the current. If I remember I'll snap a picture and post again with a link tomorrow.
@@acwrightdesign that's great, saves me from more wiring!
Good call on homing starting points and not trying to squeeze every last mm out if the available work area. That does seem safer...
I ordered my custom honeycomb work surface, and they jacked up the shipping - was close to $180 in total. Oh well!
Pics would be nice if you get around to it, up to you! As always, you rock.
How do you determine the distance from the front of the tube to the first mirror? Thanks
The distance is not important and can be any distance within reason. But it is good to leave a bit of space for maintenance.
Hi mate, I like the work you have done on the mA facia which has influenced me to buy the cricut maker. Would you be willing to share your design files for the meter please or is that too cheeky to ask?
Thanks! No problem at all. I have shared the files here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750178
@@acwrightdesign Cheers A.C that is awesome mate, have you got the files for affinity designs, cross hairs and mA facia and I have got to get my head round the cricut machine so not sure how to get that cut out yet, really appreciate your time on this.
Kind Regards
Gaz
Curious how its working for you, how costs look
Working great so far! I haven't made a ton of projects yet but I'm happy with the build!
Do you have your laser PSU on it's own 110v plug?
Sorta... I have split the laser power supply and electronics and the chiller / fans onto two different 15A circuits in my house.
@@acwrightdesign so something like this would work ... one for a single 24v350w15a PSU and the other for the laser's PSU > www.amazon.com/dp/B08CDSXWXF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I'd then plug them into a surge protector along with my water cooler and air system
@@rouncewell7038 It is hard for me to say for sure if that will work.. but I can say in general that my whole setup is not drawing more than 30 amps.
Nice work. Curious as to cost with this thing. I have a FSL hobby series and am looking to upgrade to a more robust machine.
Thanks! I think I spent between $1500 and $2000 on this machine. I wasn't carefully tracking the expenses so I'm not certain but that is a good estimate.
where is everyone ordering the parts from? amazon? aliexpress?
I ordered most of my parts from AliExpress. Some from Amazon and eBay also.
where did you get your tube from?
It is from Cloudray but I ordered from AliExpress
@@acwrightdesign ok. ya the tube and power supply from cloudray was about 400 shipping. wow. i dont like AliExpress but i will do this.
@@gnafin Yeah I was a bit worried about ordering from AliExpress but my tube came very well packed and crated in a box. And the shipping time wasn't too bad. Good luck! I hope yours arrives OK!
@@acwrightdesign Still waiting on the tube, should be here monday. hey what did you use for hookup wire and cable?
@@gnafin The red wire came with my tube. I further insulated it with silicone tubing. I used "22 AWG 30kV silicone wire" for the black wire. I'm not sure the high voltage wire is strictly necessary for the ground wire but it is good insurance. I'll add a link in the description ^^.
Hey A.C. Wright, Great work on your laser cutter build. Looks awesome and super clean. I am currently building a Y-1200 model and I also have a prusa i3 mk3. I have a few questions... Do you have any tips on how you consistently get such clean prints on your prusa? could you share how you wired the three switches and explain each of their roles?
Also, could you explain how the wiring works for the red dot sight and the auto focus sensor? I appreciate you for taking the time for making these videos they have been super informative.l
It took me a bit of time to get the Prusa dialed in correctly. One thing that helped a ton was the Nylock nut mod and using Prusa Leveling Guide in OctoPrint to get a really flat bed. I highly recommend this if you have a Prusa i3 MK3!
The panel switches are for LED lights (2 switches), laser pointer on laser head, and now a fourth switch I just added for auto/on for air assist.
I have ended up removing the auto focus sensor. I tried it and its just a pain in the butt. The red dot sight is just wired to a DPDT switch on the panel and a 5V power supply which you can see in the video. It is the small box near the stepper motor drivers.
@@acwrightdesign wow, thank you so much for the tips and tricks for the prusa. Im eager to try them out, just need to get the necessary parts. You dont have an emergency on/off for your laser cutter? And how do you turn your laser cutter on and off. As you can tell im just laser cutter newb trying to figure these things out. Also, How did you ground your frame to the table and is it necessary?
Nice and clean build! will you post the test video?
BTW I am building a laser too! inspired from the Y1200, not totally identical :)
One thing: I don't like the idea of having the mA-meter away from the tube... They are always 35'000 Volts flowing through the cables😅 I would put it just over the tube himself.
Anyway beautiful video!
Awesome! Good luck with your build! I am editing part 4 of this series today and will have some footage of it in operation. :) It is my understanding that the mA meter goes on the negative side of the tube/power supply so the potential voltage should be close to zero or ground at the meter. Of course, I have grounded my frame just in case!
@@acwrightdesign
Nice point🤔 my professor of physics at university once told that it was an agreement generally recognised, and the electrons in reality go in the opposite direction🤣 never found what is correct😅
Anyway, good tip grounding the whole structure 👍
keep up
Thank you!
Build me one...
I appreciate the vote of confidence :) But I'm not planning on building any more laser cutters. This one took me a long time!
anyway, i can get the volt label file, so I can slap my logo on it easily?
Yep. You may want to check the scale and make sure it is the correct mA range for your tube if it is different.