90W Laser Cutter From Scratch | Y-400 [Part 4]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2020
- It has been a while since part three of this Y-400 laser cutter build series was released! It is now time to finish up this project finally and put this laser cutter to use!
To make the alignment process quicker and more convenient, I decided to create some cardstock targets and 3D print custom target holders for the mirror fixtures. I used the print then cut feature of the Cricut to cut the alignment targets out of regular weight cardstock. The target holders were 3D printed on the Prusa i3 MK3S from PLA. I removed the stock targets from the mirror fixtures and replaced them with the 3D printed versions.
Aligning the laser is a process of moving the axis back and forth while adjusting the mirrors until the laser beam is traveling parallel to the axis you are aligning. The first step is to make sure the spot hits the target in the same area near and far from the mirror. Then you can position the targeted mirror for accuracy. This video is just a look at how my alignment worked out. Please refer to Further Fabrication's excellent video on laser alignment for complete information. I will provide a link below.
On mirror two, the beam ended up hitting just below the maximum travel I had available for adjustment, so I ended up swapping the mount to the bottom and 3D printing a spacer to raise the whole mirror mount upwards. The spacer allowed enough adjustment to finally get the beam hitting precisely in the middle of the target. On mirror three at the laser head, I ended up needing to insert a few M4 washers to raise the mirror mount up slightly.
With all the mirrors aligned, I installed the focusing lens and ran a quick test to find the nozzle's approximate distance to the material for proper focus.
Most of the acrylic panels were cut on a friend's table saw. A couple of the panels I CNC cut on the Shapeoko XL. I drilled mounting holes on the drill press with a stop block set to 10mm. I had to order specialty drill bits for acrylic after test drilling a scrap piece with a standard bit cracked the acrylic. The acrylic drill bits are a must-have! I used spring insert nuts in the 2020 frame to ensure the nuts wouldn't move once placed. The acrylic panels were attached with M5 8mm pan-head machine screws.
That's it for the laser cutter build! In future videos, I will be putting this thing to use on some projects!
Further Fabrication Alignment Video: • Ep6: Laser Beam Mirror...
🎬 CABINET PART ONE: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
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🎬 SMOKE EATER: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
🎬 Y-400 PART ONE: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
🎬 Y-400 PART TWO: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
🎬 Y-400 PART THREE: • 90W Laser Cutter From ...
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It feels good to finally get the laser cutter project complete! If anyone has any questions about this laser please leave a comment below. I will be using this laser cutter in upcoming projects so please subscribe if you haven't already! Thanks for watching this build series!
I’m in the middle of building the y-1200. Any regrets or upgrades you wish you did or now have done?
How well is it performing with the extrusion frame?
@@carterpytel3003 Good luck with your build! I think the frame is holding up just fine. I think if I was doing it again, I would use linear rail for the Y-Axis as well as the X-Axis.
@@acwrightdesign And why would you use linear rail for Y-axis? Wouldnt it be harder to adjust two parallel linear rails on Y-Axis? I am just curious, because I want to build Y-400 and I am thinking to use it this way.
@@Oremuss I'm not sure. You may be right that it would be more difficult to get the Y axis aligned. But the benefit of linear rail vs v wheels for accuracy would be worth it I think.
@@acwrightdesign Well I already made my mind I will try it in my build and after I am done I will write whether it is worth or not. Thats what makes building fun, trying, failing and comming up with new solutions and improvements :)
Great craftsmanship it deserves recognition.
Thank you!
Looks very slick and super cool🔥
Thanks!
Great work!!! Felicidades!
Thank you!
Dang, that is just pure awesomeness right there!!! :O
Maybe your shop could use a Y-400 next?? :)
Nice build. Cheers
Thanks!
Great series and nice work, also thanks for sharing all your 3d print files. I'm building the Y-1200, alignment is huge pain!
Thanks! Good luck on your build! Alignment can be tricky, but after you get it dialed in this is a great machine. You're almost there!
With a really long y axis it might be better to mount your laser tube to the x axis and let it move with that. You have a permentant non-changing 1st-2nd mirror alignment that way. I have seen it done, but takes much more planning.
Awesome videos AC!!
Thanks!
Nice
Thanks!
Hi, Looks like a very solid machine and with the acrylic sheeting you can show off the workings. Can you tell me where the air intake is. Cheers Dave.
Thanks! In this video I had not yet cut air intake holes in the front lid panels. If you check out my Instagram @acwrightdesign I have put up a picture of the front lid panels.
Great job, I love the clean cabinet you built for it.
What color acrylic is that and where did you source it from? I’m building one and I had selected smoky gray but it looks like you have sort of a translucent amber color.
Thanks! The acrylic is "Bronze 2370" 1/8" cast acrylic from Acme Plastics. I ordered 24" x 48" sheets and then cut them on a table saw.
@@acwrightdesign Awesome, thank you. Definitely going with that, the smoky grey just looks boring now after seeing it.
Hi guys, I’m a beginner and need to be sure with your experience if acrylic give a good protection against laser wavelength ? I planned to build my own laser
Thanks for sharing your build! I just discovered the Further Fabrication design today and am excited to see a US maker build it. Would you mind sharing your material costs?
Also, how do you find the power of the 90W LASER - and what influenced that decision? I'm a novice to the tool, but just wondering what lead to the decision to increase more than 2X from the K40. (I just liked and subscribed by the way...the laser targets got me!) :-D
Thanks for watching! I chose the 90W tube because I wanted to have more power to cut thicker materials faster. I plan on mostly cutting.
I wish I would have done an accurate cost assessment but it was roughly around $1500 for materials I believe. I already had the chiller with my K40 but it was another $400.
Loved your build,I’m building the 400 now. Wa curios where you got plans for different items such as clips data cable etc.
Thanks! I designed a bunch of extra parts myself and 3D printed them. They are all unorganized but I'm working on getting them sorted so I can share a link to the files.
I have published the files here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750178
go to thingiverse and look up farther fabrications on youtube he sales all his plans for 15 bucks well worth it
Really nice built. ;) I'm building a Y400 at the moment and have big Problems getting the Laserbeam centered down to the lens......do you have any suggestions for me? When the beam is centered at the third mirror he travels down to the lens way out of center and i get weird shapes as burnmarks. Now the beam is approx. 3mm above center at the third mirror and its better but not good. Nice greets from Austria ;)
When the beam is centered through the nozzle it MIGHT NOT actually hit the 3rd mirror opening in the center! The most important part is that the beam is centered through the nozzle. Then adjust the 2nd mirror to hit wherever it needs to on the 3rd mirror for that to happen.
Nice video. we use something like that to do the alignment on big lasers. 6000w. hey did you get any of your hardware here in the US or Aliexpress?
Thanks! Yeah there were some parts that came from Amazon but most of the parts were one big AliExpress order.
HI Aaron, you have the cleanest builds of the makers/fabricators out there, that's so inspiring! Are your table plans available anywhere? Do you happen to put together a parts list (to buy in the US)?
Thanks! Yes I shared the cabinet plans here: a360.co/2Ng9dH2. I'm sorry I didn't keep a parts list. If you are looking for the original plans for the Y-400 check out the Further Fabrication YT channel.
@@acwrightdesign
Can I use gt2 6mm belt for x and y?
Because it is only available in my place!
@@geminiman2831 I suppose you can if the pulleys are correct fort hat belt
@@acwrightdesign
Yeah I use 6mm pulley is it ok?
@@geminiman2831 I think it will be ok
Im curious would it be easier to add the mirrors prior to test shots? So when you have it aligned then it reduces the chance that it might go out of alignment? Good work on the y400.
IDK maybe? Seems like a good thing to try
@@acwrightdesign Dont know i dont have experience with it. It just popped in my head. I just have exp with building 3d printers..Thanks for your videos it will help me a lot when i go to build mine.Im hoping to have independent motors for the bed lift so i can level my bed to the laser using BL Touch.
A.C.,What was your final cost for this build. I'm thinking of building one for myself. I like the way you used plexy for the body. Looks awesome.
It is hard for me to say exactly since I had some of the items on hand already but my Ali Express order was around $900 and I probably spend $200 or so on the smoke eater/fans. The water chiller was around $350. The acrylic was around $200. The aluminum extrusion was about $150?
@@acwrightdesign Thanks, that gives me a good Idea.
The black strips that we see on 6:39 to secure the acrylic, are those 3d printed or metal?
Yes those were 3D printed. I have linked to the files on Thingiverse in the description.
Hi. Can you explain how did you solved that gear slipping problem from the video? What actualy was the problem that is causing that? Thanks.
Yes. I needed to tighten the gear toothed pulley on the X-axis stepper motor which you can see me doing in the video. The X-axis was loosing steps due to the stepper motor shaft turning without the pulley turning.
Very nice build. What color is that acrylic?
It is Bronze 2370 from Acme Plastics
@@acwrightdesign Thanks, btw, what is that machine you ran the targets thru?
@@bobmarino2357 It is a Cricut Explore One
Hey A.C. would you happen to know how to adjust the height limit of the z axis on the ruida controller?
There is a setting in the "Z axis settings" for "Max travel" but that is the max direction AWAY from the nozzle. If you are looking for max travel TOWARDS the nozzle that can only be set with a limit switch for Z axis or a focus probe (just another limit switch) on the nozzle. I originally tried the focus probe and found that it is not worth my time. I opted instead for installing a Z limit switch on one of the Y axis extrusion rails and a 3D printed "stop" that is mounted on the bed. I then turned on homing for all axis in the settings.
I was looking through your models and noticed you have a Z access limit switch STL, but I do not see it anywhere in your build. Did you end up not using it? IF you did use it, where did you end up mounting it?
I did install a Z limit on the rear left side of the bed. I believe you can see it in one of my videos. I found that I didn't want to use the Z probe and removed it. I find the Z limit to be good enough for me.
@@acwrightdesign Thanks, I'll scan through again and double check. Yeah I wasn't confident of the probe preventing crashes, and since the belts are down there I'm more worried. I was thinking about adding positive and negative limit switches , as there doesn't appear to be any home crash prevention.
@@acwrightdesign could you take a picture of the z axis switch if you have the time. thanks.
Where did you get your power supplies from and which kind are they? if you had two 24v power sources what would you be able to run?
I got them from Amazon. I added a link in the description of the wiring video: th-cam.com/video/_t47x8h7q0U/w-d-xo.html. I'm using one for Ruida and LED lights and the other dedicated to the three stepper motor drivers.
Appreciate your feedback. I am having issues with my Z axis stepper motor grabbing traction to the timing belt. I fidgeted around with the tension wheels and also moved the z axis rods so the belt is tense in hopes of the motor working. I have a 2' x 4' bed, do you have any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
@@charlesraimondo3761 Check your pillow block bearings on the Z axis and make sure they are seated properly. Mine were pressed into the blocks at an angle which caused binding. I had to carefully hammer them back in until they were in straight. After that, tighten the bottom bearings to the frame and loosen the top bearings to allow the Z axis rods to "spring" to their ideal position then re-tighten the top blocks. After I did all of this my Z axis ran much smoother and then the tensioning wheels seemed to work better. Good luck!
Would something like an 2020 v-groove X-axis tensioner work in place of the (2) 3d printed Y-axis tensioners? I'd rather have the rigidity of the aluminum if possible. Just curious since you've built your machine already
I had to look that up and didn't know those existed! It sure looks like it would work. The Y tensioners from FF plans do work but they aren't the best design IMO. I would say give it a try! Please report back if you do!
@@acwrightdesign I purchased 2 of the X-tensioners and they work great as Y-tensioners here! However, they are longer than FF's design, so the inner frame has to be pushed back just a bit. I also wanted to ask if you have a link to the mains electrical wire you use .. the 14/2 wire is stiffer than I'd like and I saw in your Part 3 that you were using more flexible cables (white/green color with red ferrule ends). Thanks again!
@@rouncewell7038 I believe the cable I was using was just pulled out from a 3 prong power cable and I added the ferrules myself.
@@acwrightdesign I apologize for all the questions, but thanks for always getting back! I really appreciate it!
@@rouncewell7038 No problem at all!
Are you using laser safe or regulae acrylic for the enclosure?
It is regular acrylic. Since a C02 laser can CUT acrylic it therefore can absorb C02 laser energy. A stray beam hitting the acrylic would be out of focus and mostly absorbed by the darkly tinted acrylic before passing through anything else! Worse case scenario I would end up melting some of the enclosure. :) But of course I will protect my eyeballs!!
@@acwrightdesign I am planning on building the 1200 so nice to see an actual build of one of these machines
@@pete.n. Good luck with your build!
Can I use gt2 6mm belt for x and y?
Because it is only available in my place!
I suppose you can if the correct matching pulleys are used
@@acwrightdesign
Yeah I use 6mm pulley is it OK?
@@geminiman2831 Yes it is ok
@@acwrightdesign
👍
What is your focal point at? mine is around 2mm, I'm using the same laser head and mirror setup from cloudray on mine build.
2mm seems too close... Mine is around 6.5mm. C series laser head and 50.8mm lens?
@@acwrightdesign ok i'll give that a try, mine is also E series head and 50.8mm lens. I'm still playing around whit a demo setup build, waiting on frame parts
@@biggizmo6041 I mistakenly said E series when mine is C series. If yours is E series maybe it is different? I don't want to lead you astray. Best to just perform a ramp test to get the range.
@@acwrightdesign haha yea mine is also the C series, had to look it up,
C & E series are very similar.
@@acwrightdesign What control board do you use?
You work so hard to get alignment-do you get frustrated?
Not really. The whole thing only took a couple hours. Making the targets really helped it go smoothly. The only frustration was that mirror two didn't have enough adjustment travel and I had to 3D print the spacer!
where did you get that bed from?
The honeycomb bed was a custom order from Cloudray Laser. You can email them from their website to order a custom bed. Mine is 585mm X 625mm with 5.5mm spacing and cost $140 with shipping. I would suggest measuring yours if you custom order. It might not be the same!
@@acwrightdesign Ya i found it thanks. i will wait until it is complete to order it. i have most of my parts now just waiting for the hardware kit and the corner brackets. until then i think i will cut out the acrylic panels on a 6k co2 laser. i sitii have to think of a stand.
what the machine used to cut the feature of the circuit ?
If you are referring to the panel with the switches, it was 3D printed on my Prusa i3 MK3S
@@acwrightdesign 0:15 the one used to cut the cardstock profile it's a kind of cnc knife or cnc paper cutter
@@mohamed_fawzy Ahhh! That is a Cricut Explore One
What color plexiglass is that?
It is 1/8"" (3mm) Bronze 2370 cast acrylic from Acme Plastics
@@acwrightdesign Thanks!
Is it really cheaper to build vs buy?
Yes. For me at least. I found it significantly cheaper to build this laser then to purchase one with similar specs. Bear in mind that I ordered the parts in 2020 before Covid issues in China so prices may have changed somewhat. But if you consider that a 90-100W laser cutter will likely run you over $4000 I think this design is still much cheaper.
@@acwrightdesign would buying a pre maid frame like cloudray then just build the cabinet be an option?
@@8mmmauser896 Yeah I think this is an interesting option. I'm not sure what the cost difference would be but if I was building again I would probably go this route to save time and have linear rails on the Y axis
When you ready to Sell, I buy it..
I do not plan on selling the laser cutter but you can build your own!