As someone who has built a c02 laser cutter id have to say that it is totally worth it. There are a lot of struggles but when you get it to work it is so rewarding. Looking forward to see your process compared to mine
After 2 years of planning and 2 months of building. My machine is finally ready. Of course need some calibration but I wanted to thank you. Thank you fo sharing your knowledge. And helping me and other to build something like that. I am already making present for my family and friends and who knows maybe make a business out of this. Wish you the best. PS: Big thanks to the Facebook community.
I had a book once, called: Anguished English, by Richard Leerder, and that had "rocket surgery" and we've used that in my family for ages. Its great hearing someone else use it!
While I'm only a newbie (I just recently got myself a K40 that I'm putting to test), from what I've seen, you're on the right path. Best of luck from me!
I think what you’re doing is really great mate! Best of luck with the series, I’ll be watching it. I hope to build one myself if budget and skill allows.
I am currently in the market for a CO2 laser... but a 300w unit. I'll probably end up with the 280w model, because I was informed it's a more stable/durable tube system, and I'll only lose a tiny bit of cut speed, but save a few hundred dollars. However, building one intrigues me but the total build needs to be WAY less than $6200 for the size I started looking into. Because that's how much I can spend on importing a turn-key shipped to my door. Includes water chiller, various personal choice additions, like automatic material sensing, motorized Z-Table, 4th axis rotary attachment, material pass-thru support... plus the ability to cut up to 3mm (1/8th) steel plate, and 2mm stainless. Obviously the other stuff too, like 38mm (1.5") acrylic and 24mm (1") MDF and everything thinner than that. I know I want a Rudia controller, because I'd be able to use Lightburn (from my Mac) to directly cut and engrave from programs I already know how to use, like Photoshop and Illustrator. I know it might sound like a lot to some, but when you price similar machines sold by 3rd party companies, the specs I listed are easily into the $20k range and WELL BEYOND!! Plus, I'm really more of a business, than personal garage usage, and the price of the machine can be written off. So I know a return on investment is a no-brainer and much quicker the less I pay up-front for a machine. Plus, I don't have to owe any leasing company money each month, if I should not be as busy as I hoped I would be or the economy takes a dump. Been there done that... can anyone say 2008? I just came back from ISA sign expo in Las Vegas, where there were many laser machine vendors there. Including all the main ones you've heard of, Trotec, Universal, Kern etc... plus quite a few direct to import companies showing off their latest offerings. I looked at a 4x8 Fiber Laser, it was "only" $70k and could cut up to 1/4" steel plate with oxygen assist. But the cuts in regular sheet steel were fantastic! Almost no detectible heat affected zone, and super tight tolerances. Even at that price, it's technically a bargain compared to the $250k entry price tag from some larger manufacturers like Mitsubishi. If I needed more speed and cut capacity, it seems like a good way to get started in the biz. Then you could cut your teeth on a budget machine, get some jobs in under your belt and get your name out there... THEN you could get the brand name machine, if down-time, service and warranty are critical to your profitability and bottom line. I know those salesmen push those attributes super hard and try to poo-poo Chinese import machines. But nearly all of them use the exact same components from the same manufacturers. What you are usually paying for is the overhead and fancy offices for the larger corporations. Even the biggest have iffy service contracts, once the machine is installed in your facility. So you aren't always paying for customer service and a field tech. One of the Chinese manufacturers told me straight up, that if their machine goes down, and they can't trouble shoot it over the phone or through the computer, they'd fly a tech out for only $1500. But they are actively training local independent field techs so there would always be someone available. Anyway... I'll be watching this video series closely to see if this is the direction I want to go. As I've already converted a Chinese wide format printer (with Epson DX7 printheads) to be a UV ink compatible printer, and saved $40k by doing it myself, over buying one already built that way. Once I realized that just saying your printer has UV cure lights, automatically means you can charge a premium... I got active and figured it out. (it was not hard... added a UV LED chip to the side of the print head, and a magnetic reed switch to turn it on as it passed over the print. Found an ink manufacturer that sells ink that cures within that wave length. Only tricky part was learning what print speeds allowed to ink to cure just right)
@@DerrickAD I usually start by looking through alibaba.com But the main thing you'll want to look for first is an actual machine manufacturer, as opposed to a "Trade Partner". Lots of vendors on there don't actually make the machines, but act as third party brokers and facilitate the sale, but can't promise after sales support as well as the actual manufacturer. It's OK to ask them via chat what type of company they are. But the best ones that have the most competitive pricing and up to date tech, and good tech support are omni-cnc.com, bcamcnc.com, elephant-cnc.com, chinsailcnc.com. (I am personally most likely buying my 280w CNC Laser from chinsailcnc.com, but my 3 spindle CNC Router Table in the future from elephant-cnc.com )
I was wondering how laser cutters work, and what they can cut. Now I have a much better understanding. Ty for informative diagrams. It's neat that the laser itself, at least in this type of design, never needs to move around, but gets to stay in one place while we harness the power of mirrors to redirect the beam all over the place. That's got to be handy considering the, I assume, cost and somewhat fragile nature of the co2 laser itself.
all the best man..i already own a 4by3 100w co2 laser bought it for ~$5000 still looking forward to your series, I actually want to make an 8 by 4 machine hope i learn something new from you
@@DerrickAD I am from India,I bought it from our local manufacture .it's basically a chines machine but it's assembled locally.very good quality though.body is made here parts like motors,head,tube, controller(ruida) & other are from China
Thanks for the great series and design. I already purchased all of the digital material! Now that I"m sourcing parts...how would you characterize the different "low" power tubes for a new user planning to build a Y-400 and getting into laser cutting and engraving? Looking at 45-75W and trying to figure out if the higher power will open up a lot more capability, or if they will do the same things...maybe a little faster. Would starting with the lower cost 45W to get familiar be the recommendation or would going to a 60W be a nice improvement if the budget allows?
Hello Sir, I wonder if you have bought a laser cutting machine. If you need some help about the machine, as a professional, I can help you answer whatsapp +8613127135107 online
Hello, is this build beginner friendly? Meaning can someone with little to no experience execute this build using your directions and videos? btw: I'm sure you get it a lot but you are very pleasing to the eyes and ears :-)
I’m very curious about this build process and look forward to your series. I’m also very interested in learning the software to operate it. What free/cheap/ easy to learn software would you suggest? Thank you!
I have a laser at work that can cut 8'x40' sheets of 1" steel. It's fun, and insane! Don't get to cut stuff on it very often though, so I want my own, haha.
Keen ezz bro! I have a Open builds OX CNC I'm going to take apart to make a laser with all the parts. I'll be following you closely 😉😀. Great presenting by the way, natural.
Great project, as you are dealing with high voltage with the co2 tube. What measure and design features will be built in the design to make safe for the user.
Not sure on low powered lasers, I run an 8 banger co2 and the reflective index is to high to cut aluminum, you'd probably blow a lens before the etching was done. Sick build though. Curious on the aluminum
2 things: *anyone looking to cut metal and nothing else you want a plasma cutter or table *i hope this man says "its lazer time" before any laser cutting footage.
I'm from Oklahoma City where Steven Adams played for the Thunder (NBA) for years. If y'all have a similar attitude and outlook as him... I think I want to move to New Zealand.
I’m curious about when you were talking about focal length and thicker material being more difficult to cut due to a majority of the material being out of focus. I am sure you know this if you are building a laser but increasing the Power and moving focal point above the material lessening the density of the beam when widening the Beam diameter. Once you move the Focal position high enough the beam with more evenly distribute the heat and this will allow you to increase the power and small increase to the amount of cutting gas to the material to compensate for lessened beam density allowing for a good cut at thicker material. Yes obviously you are also spreading heat wider and causing a larger kerf but as long as you use the correct nozzle to beat take advantage of the small increase in cutting gas and also increase the cutting fees rate, especially on holes less then half the diameter of the material thickness, then time of exposure and use of the cutting gas as more of a Primary cutting parameter will allow a balance to make the cut satisfactory. Of course this takes a touch more experience but practicing techniques like this allows your ability to be more versatile when new challenges come your way. Side note…. Putting the focus point below the material does not give the same results. Though it would appear it should being that the beam appears to be an hour Glass and should have the same beam density below the focal point as it does above and technology it can be true of especially with the style focal motors on most co2 lasers. The problem is That you are passing the full heat of The focal point through the sheet and then attempting to stabilize your cut at less density. Doing this will just give the reverse effect of how fiber laser welding machines work where a less dense and powerful beam cleans through vaporization and then preheats the material while being immediately followed by a much more intense beam with the focal point near of at the bottom of the material allowing it to melt the preheated metal with the focal point while fusing the same materials together with the less dense beam above. So you essentially weld and fuse the material as fast as you cut it and with a lot of splatter popping from the lack of vaporizing and preheating
pt4 jsut came up in my news feed and i watched themin reverse you jsut got a new sub my dude, and i know your pain for buying things being from the south island.
I will wait for your build series to build one. I need to finish my high-end 3D printer build, and with that I'll prototype the laser cutter. High-end CNC machines used AC servo motors, like the Sigma 7 servos from Yaskawa. I am curious about the difference between 0.9 degree Nema 17 motors vs BLDC for a laser cutter. I am going high-precision linear rails and probably GT2 Gates belt with 16 tooth pulleys mounted on 0.9 degree Steppers from Lin Engineering. The motion system I believe is relatively simple, it's the spectroscopy part that is making me hesitate sourcing and ordering the components.
I'll be following along. I had been considering a K40 but would rather build it myself. If you need something machined let me know, Im happy to help out a fellow youtuber even though Im on the wrong side of the planet.
Saxo Fonista, like he said, it depends on where in the world you are living. US and Europe I imagine that the price for a new one will be more or less the same price as the individual parts. This is unfortunately not the case where we are living, he is in New Zealand and I’m in South Africa. We’ve got the same problem. We can build it for a quarter (even less) of the price you would pay for a stock out of the box ready to use product.
Love your videos! I saw in your earlier build that the inner frame was all right angles. Didn't you find this geometry flexes and oscillates? Rigidity depends on tigtness of corner braces. Will you include any diagonal members in you new build? Triangles are inherently rigid.
Thanks. Yeah that's a great point about rigidity, I haven't had any noticeable issues from it but it's something to keep in mind for a larger frame build.
I think it matters more if you’re building a cnc router but because the laser head is relatively light & doesn’t touch the material there will be no torque issues.
Hi fantastic video, I have a question, the laser power is less if the distance from the second mirror is too large, for example 2 meters. Because I want to build a machine 2 meters by 1.30 meters approximately. If you can answer my questions it would be a great help
Hello, Sir, the machine can be customized according to your requirements, but first we need to know the thickness of your cutting materials, and then we can discuss the size of the machine after determining the power. My whatsapp is +8613127135107, and I am willing to help you solve practical problems online
Very informative, but i have a question though... Does the CO2 cutting machine cut a 1mm plate of silver or gold for example? If the power of the machine is 50w? And what machine do you recommend for that (cutting 1mm plate of silver or gold)? I want to start my jewelry business and i am a little bit lost 🙄
Can a laser cut material in multiple passes allowing the focus point to be moved down with each pass. This would make cutting thicker material more feasible.
Quick question, does density of the material have a direct effect of how hard it is for it to cut? For example, wood is something that people often say kinds of lasers can cut. However, "wood" covers a large amount of species that have many different qualities. Pine for example is quite soft and easy to burn or even dent with a tool, ebony however is quite dense and often dulls cutting tools while being worked. Would that effect cutting with a laser? Love your videos btw,
Great question, and in general, a harder wood is harder to cut, as it's about the transfer of energy through a material. I would say that density is just one of the properties that affect 'laserability'. Other things like how much resin is in the wood and it's grain structure also have an affect. Might be an interesting topic for further research...
Yeah good idea. I tried to favor pre-made parts where I could just for ease of construction, as in a lot of cases, 3d printing a bunch of brackets when they only cost a few cents to buy anyway isn't super time efficient. There are however, a few parts that will be 3d printed because I needed a custom solution.
I purchased all of the materials to build this laser 2 years ago. I thought it might get better with age, so I let it set for 2 years :) Now I've started the build and discover that there is an upgrade on the Y axis with linear rails. I've read the V2 parts list and can't isolate the parts that I need just for the upgrade. Now is the time to implement the upgrade since I have just reached the point where I assemble that area. Can anyone tell me how to find out what parts I need for the upgrade only? It was easy to spot the motor since it's the only one that has two shafts. Otherwise I'm lost.
I have no idea how I did but I was able to engrave a plate of stainless steel with a cheap diode lazer it was on full power and I put 75 passes on it that took well over 2 hours for a 4x4 logo
I am waiting for the day I can buy or make a laser cutter in the form of a "hedge trimmer". One that won't start the hedge on fire. Am I dreaming from another planet ??
As someone who has built a c02 laser cutter id have to say that it is totally worth it. There are a lot of struggles but when you get it to work it is so rewarding. Looking forward to see your process compared to mine
After 2 years of planning and 2 months of building. My machine is finally ready. Of course need some calibration but I wanted to thank you. Thank you fo sharing your knowledge. And helping me and other to build something like that. I am already making present for my family and friends and who knows maybe make a business out of this. Wish you the best.
PS: Big thanks to the Facebook community.
Awesome! My home-built 100w co2 laser is going fantastically well. I highly recommend making one!
I have about 75% of the parts in, just a week or so away from build. Love your guides.
I had a book once, called: Anguished English, by Richard Leerder, and that had "rocket surgery" and we've used that in my family for ages.
Its great hearing someone else use it!
So, was he the first to mix their metaphors?
While I'm only a newbie (I just recently got myself a K40 that I'm putting to test), from what I've seen, you're on the right path. Best of luck from me!
I'm really glad I found this channel as I'm planning to build one but I don't know where to start. Looking forward to the series!
th-cam.com/video/vB05VRqlsU8/w-d-xo.html
I was literally just watching your last video hoping that you post again soon, and I check my subscriptions and here it is, you read my mind!
Hahaha perfect timing!
i work on a 2500 w co2 laser. i cut metal sheets at 15 mm thickness clean and nice. this video helped me urderstand more than i already know. ty
I think what you’re doing is really great mate! Best of luck with the series, I’ll be watching it. I hope to build one myself if budget and skill allows.
I am currently in the market for a CO2 laser... but a 300w unit. I'll probably end up with the 280w model, because I was informed it's a more stable/durable tube system, and I'll only lose a tiny bit of cut speed, but save a few hundred dollars.
However, building one intrigues me but the total build needs to be WAY less than $6200 for the size I started looking into. Because that's how much I can spend on importing a turn-key shipped to my door. Includes water chiller, various personal choice additions, like automatic material sensing, motorized Z-Table, 4th axis rotary attachment, material pass-thru support... plus the ability to cut up to 3mm (1/8th) steel plate, and 2mm stainless. Obviously the other stuff too, like 38mm (1.5") acrylic and 24mm (1") MDF and everything thinner than that. I know I want a Rudia controller, because I'd be able to use Lightburn (from my Mac) to directly cut and engrave from programs I already know how to use, like Photoshop and Illustrator.
I know it might sound like a lot to some, but when you price similar machines sold by 3rd party companies, the specs I listed are easily into the $20k range and WELL BEYOND!! Plus, I'm really more of a business, than personal garage usage, and the price of the machine can be written off. So I know a return on investment is a no-brainer and much quicker the less I pay up-front for a machine. Plus, I don't have to owe any leasing company money each month, if I should not be as busy as I hoped I would be or the economy takes a dump. Been there done that... can anyone say 2008?
I just came back from ISA sign expo in Las Vegas, where there were many laser machine vendors there. Including all the main ones you've heard of, Trotec, Universal, Kern etc... plus quite a few direct to import companies showing off their latest offerings. I looked at a 4x8 Fiber Laser, it was "only" $70k and could cut up to 1/4" steel plate with oxygen assist. But the cuts in regular sheet steel were fantastic! Almost no detectible heat affected zone, and super tight tolerances. Even at that price, it's technically a bargain compared to the $250k entry price tag from some larger manufacturers like Mitsubishi. If I needed more speed and cut capacity, it seems like a good way to get started in the biz. Then you could cut your teeth on a budget machine, get some jobs in under your belt and get your name out there... THEN you could get the brand name machine, if down-time, service and warranty are critical to your profitability and bottom line. I know those salesmen push those attributes super hard and try to poo-poo Chinese import machines. But nearly all of them use the exact same components from the same manufacturers. What you are usually paying for is the overhead and fancy offices for the larger corporations. Even the biggest have iffy service contracts, once the machine is installed in your facility. So you aren't always paying for customer service and a field tech. One of the Chinese manufacturers told me straight up, that if their machine goes down, and they can't trouble shoot it over the phone or through the computer, they'd fly a tech out for only $1500. But they are actively training local independent field techs so there would always be someone available.
Anyway... I'll be watching this video series closely to see if this is the direction I want to go. As I've already converted a Chinese wide format printer (with Epson DX7 printheads) to be a UV ink compatible printer, and saved $40k by doing it myself, over buying one already built that way. Once I realized that just saying your printer has UV cure lights, automatically means you can charge a premium... I got active and figured it out. (it was not hard... added a UV LED chip to the side of the print head, and a magnetic reed switch to turn it on as it passed over the print. Found an ink manufacturer that sells ink that cures within that wave length. Only tricky part was learning what print speeds allowed to ink to cure just right)
Do you have a link for the machine you are considering?
@@DerrickAD I usually start by looking through alibaba.com But the main thing you'll want to look for first is an actual machine manufacturer, as opposed to a "Trade Partner". Lots of vendors on there don't actually make the machines, but act as third party brokers and facilitate the sale, but can't promise after sales support as well as the actual manufacturer. It's OK to ask them via chat what type of company they are.
But the best ones that have the most competitive pricing and up to date tech, and good tech support are omni-cnc.com, bcamcnc.com, elephant-cnc.com, chinsailcnc.com. (I am personally most likely buying my 280w CNC Laser from chinsailcnc.com, but my 3 spindle CNC Router Table in the future from elephant-cnc.com )
nice work brother awesome🥰
I was wondering how laser cutters work, and what they can cut.
Now I have a much better understanding. Ty for informative diagrams.
It's neat that the laser itself, at least in this type of design, never needs to move around, but gets to stay in one place while we harness the power of mirrors to redirect the beam all over the place.
That's got to be handy considering the, I assume, cost and somewhat fragile nature of the co2 laser itself.
this channel is gold
Wow what a nice easter treat, almost better than easter eggs!!!
Almost.
all the best man..i already own a 4by3 100w co2 laser bought it for ~$5000
still looking forward to your series, I actually want to make an 8 by 4 machine hope i learn something new from you
Where did you buy your machine?
@@DerrickAD I am from India,I bought it from our local manufacture .it's basically a chines machine but it's assembled locally.very good quality though.body is made here parts like motors,head,tube, controller(ruida) & other are from China
I cant wait! I can tell you are really putting care into the production of these videos
Great timing as we're contemplating commencing a build in this range (both power and budget) shortly. Looking forward to the series!
Triple flip and chips for the dip! Nice one fellow maker
A cooler with stuff for the thing!
Sir you are a freaking genius! Amazing, thorough and well thought out laser build explanation!
Thanks for the great series and design. I already purchased all of the digital material!
Now that I"m sourcing parts...how would you characterize the different "low" power tubes for a new user planning to build a Y-400 and getting into laser cutting and engraving? Looking at 45-75W and trying to figure out if the higher power will open up a lot more capability, or if they will do the same things...maybe a little faster. Would starting with the lower cost 45W to get familiar be the recommendation or would going to a 60W be a nice improvement if the budget allows?
Can’t wait to see the series! You gained a new subscriber here! Great content!
Hello Sir, I wonder if you have bought a laser cutting machine. If you need some help about the machine, as a professional, I can help you answer whatsapp +8613127135107 online
Good work. All of your videos are inductif. Thank you. Good continuation
Hello, is this build beginner friendly? Meaning can someone with little to no experience execute this build using your directions and videos?
btw: I'm sure you get it a lot but you are very pleasing to the eyes and ears :-)
Awesome ! can't wait for this series, been wanting to build a laser cutter for a while now.
I knew that your accent was familiar ! I❤️NZ ... and DIY. I'll follow this serie for sure !
I have always believed that I was the only person that says rocket surgery. I get corrected every time I say it. That you for the validation.
Nice video man! Good to have a fellow Wellingtonian maker!!
I’m very curious about this build process and look forward to your series. I’m also very interested in learning the software to operate it. What free/cheap/ easy to learn software would you suggest? Thank you!
I have a laser at work that can cut 8'x40' sheets of 1" steel. It's fun, and insane! Don't get to cut stuff on it very often though, so I want my own, haha.
I will nor built a laser cuter, however i'll watch your videos, for sure... you should de payed for sharing it... an hug from portugal
You got my subscription when you said Laser... I'm in bruh!!
Great video . Clearly explained .
This is Lynn from Cloudray. Nice to meet you. Thank you for sharing the technology.
th-cam.com/video/vB05VRqlsU8/w-d-xo.html
Well done. Good introduction for the project. Thank you.
Keen ezz bro! I have a Open builds OX CNC I'm going to take apart to make a laser with all the parts. I'll be following you closely 😉😀. Great presenting by the way, natural.
Great project, as you are dealing with high voltage with the co2 tube. What measure and design features will be built in the design to make safe for the user.
I might just give this ago. Thank you for your videos. Fellow kiwi in New Plymouth.
Looking forward to the series.
What a nice video, very instructive. New sub. I will follow the construction of the co2 laser cutter.
Great job on your cutter build!!
Eagerly looking forward to it.
th-cam.com/video/vB05VRqlsU8/w-d-xo.html
Hears New Zealand, subscribes immediately xD
I'm looking forward to this a lot
Not sure on low powered lasers, I run an 8 banger co2 and the reflective index is to high to cut aluminum, you'd probably blow a lens before the etching was done. Sick build though. Curious on the aluminum
2 things:
*anyone looking to cut metal and nothing else you want a plasma cutter or table
*i hope this man says "its lazer time" before any laser cutting footage.
plasma ……..poor mans laser!
@@johncooper751 Er NO! Different animals for different applications.
I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. A fiber laser will eat a plasma cutter for lunch.
amazing explanation, thanks a lot for taking the time to explain these facts to us. full respect
I'm from Oklahoma City where Steven Adams played for the Thunder (NBA) for years. If y'all have a similar attitude and outlook as him... I think I want to move to New Zealand.
Really good video!!!
I’m curious about when you were talking about focal length and thicker material being more difficult to cut due to a majority of the material being out of focus. I am sure you know this if you are building a laser but increasing the
Power and moving focal point above the material lessening the density of the beam when widening the
Beam diameter. Once you move the
Focal position high enough the beam with more evenly distribute the heat and this will allow you to increase the power and small increase to the amount of cutting gas to the material to compensate for lessened beam density allowing for a good cut at thicker material. Yes obviously you are also spreading heat wider and causing a larger kerf but as long as you use the correct nozzle to beat take advantage of the small increase in cutting gas and also increase the cutting fees rate, especially on holes less then half the diameter of the material thickness, then time of exposure and use of the cutting gas as more of a
Primary cutting parameter will allow a balance to make the cut satisfactory. Of course this takes a touch more experience but practicing techniques like this allows your ability to be more versatile when new challenges come your way. Side note…. Putting the focus point below the material does not give the same results. Though it would appear it should being that the beam appears to be an hour
Glass and should have the same beam density below the focal point as it does above and technology it can be true of especially with the style focal motors on most co2 lasers. The problem is
That you are passing the full heat of
The focal point through the sheet and then attempting to stabilize your cut at less density. Doing this will just give the reverse effect of how fiber laser welding machines work where a less dense and powerful beam cleans through vaporization and then preheats the material while being immediately followed by a much more intense beam with the focal point near of at the bottom of the material allowing it to melt the preheated metal with the focal point while fusing the same materials together with the less dense beam above. So you essentially weld and fuse the material as fast as you cut it and with a lot of splatter popping from the lack of vaporizing and preheating
Excellent!! waiting for the videos, certainly I will build this one.
Any chance of a parts list so we can begin procuring? So cool to see this in NZ, thanks heaps
Yeah though I'll put it out at the end of the build so I can make sure it all works first! I'd hate to recommend the wrong part before I've tested it
pt4 jsut came up in my news feed and i watched themin reverse
you jsut got a new sub my dude, and i know your pain for buying things being from the south island.
Cheers bro. oh dude that sucks.
I will wait for your build series to build one. I need to finish my high-end 3D printer build, and with that I'll prototype the laser cutter. High-end CNC machines used AC servo motors, like the Sigma 7 servos from Yaskawa. I am curious about the difference between 0.9 degree Nema 17 motors vs BLDC for a laser cutter. I am going high-precision linear rails and probably GT2 Gates belt with 16 tooth pulleys mounted on 0.9 degree Steppers from Lin Engineering. The motion system I believe is relatively simple, it's the spectroscopy part that is making me hesitate sourcing and ordering the components.
I'll be following along. I had been considering a K40 but would rather build it myself. If you need something machined let me know, Im happy to help out a fellow youtuber even though Im on the wrong side of the planet.
But if you put a 300watt laser tube with the correct power supply if it possible to cut aluminum or tougher materials ?
Yeah, very thin steel or aluminium and only with the right setup. The beam can reflect back into the laser tube otherwise.
That's it... Enjoying making.. 👍
Great series, cool videos. Thank you man.
sweet informative episode man - look forward to it. 👍🥓
Looking forward to your series, I can't wait to get started on my own laser cutter!
Laser cutter factory direct. email: justin@jnruijie.com WhatsApp:0086-133-4627-2057
Seriously looking forward to this!!
You use for hobby or industry need ?
i want build this may i konow the parts name of this
Where do you buy your parts from? I found it more expensive to buy seperate parts than the machine already assembled.
Saxo Fonista, like he said, it depends on where in the world you are living. US and Europe I imagine that the price for a new one will be more or less the same price as the individual parts. This is unfortunately not the case where we are living, he is in New Zealand and I’m in South Africa. We’ve got the same problem. We can build it for a quarter (even less) of the price you would pay for a stock out of the box ready to use product.
Love your videos! I saw in your earlier build that the inner frame was all right angles. Didn't you find this geometry flexes and oscillates? Rigidity depends on tigtness of corner braces. Will you include any diagonal members in you new build? Triangles are inherently rigid.
Thanks. Yeah that's a great point about rigidity, I haven't had any noticeable issues from it but it's something to keep in mind for a larger frame build.
I think it matters more if you’re building a cnc router but because the laser head is relatively light & doesn’t touch the material there will be no torque issues.
William Osman wants to know your location
AU
MO
Hi fantastic video, I have a question, the laser power is less if the distance from the second mirror is too large, for example 2 meters.
Because I want to build a machine 2 meters by 1.30 meters approximately.
If you can answer my questions it would be a great help
Hello, Sir, the machine can be customized according to your requirements, but first we need to know the thickness of your cutting materials, and then we can discuss the size of the machine after determining the power. My whatsapp is +8613127135107, and I am willing to help you solve practical problems online
Very informative, but i have a question though... Does the CO2 cutting machine cut a 1mm plate of silver or gold for example? If the power of the machine is 50w?
And what machine do you recommend for that (cutting 1mm plate of silver or gold)? I want to start my jewelry business and i am a little bit lost 🙄
Would the power suggested in the video be able to cut stainless steel or nickel at about 0.2 mm ?
My new hero! Thank you for this!
So cool. Excellent explanation.
Can a laser cut material in multiple passes allowing the focus point to be moved down with each pass. This would make cutting thicker material more feasible.
Thank you !!!! How can we control the laser pulse?
Haha 4:38 I thought my phone died and i thought it was a sign from God
In terms of fabrication of ferrous and non ferrous materials, which is better, CNC or Laser, if laser then which type regardless of cost?
Aye can't wait ! Best of luck
Excellent explanation. Thankyou
Quick question, does density of the material have a direct effect of how hard it is for it to cut? For example, wood is something that people often say kinds of lasers can cut. However, "wood" covers a large amount of species that have many different qualities. Pine for example is quite soft and easy to burn or even dent with a tool, ebony however is quite dense and often dulls cutting tools while being worked.
Would that effect cutting with a laser?
Love your videos btw,
Great question, and in general, a harder wood is harder to cut, as it's about the transfer of energy through a material. I would say that density is just one of the properties that affect 'laserability'. Other things like how much resin is in the wood and it's grain structure also have an affect.
Might be an interesting topic for further research...
@@FurtherFabrication I would love to watch anything you might be inclined to make :)
Nice one, Bro !
excellent
would be great if you could include 3d printed parts (or parts alternatives)in the built, as that could cut cost even more.
Yeah good idea. I tried to favor pre-made parts where I could just for ease of construction, as in a lot of cases, 3d printing a bunch of brackets when they only cost a few cents to buy anyway isn't super time efficient. There are however, a few parts that will be 3d printed because I needed a custom solution.
how much it is gonna cost? I need one.
Nice. Which controller are you going with? Ruida? Check out Lightburn Software if you have not yet.
I purchased all of the materials to build this laser 2 years ago. I thought it might get better with age, so I let it set for 2 years :) Now I've started the build and discover that there is an upgrade on the Y axis with linear rails. I've read the V2 parts list and can't isolate the parts that I need just for the upgrade. Now is the time to implement the upgrade since I have just reached the point where I assemble that area. Can anyone tell me how to find out what parts I need for the upgrade only? It was easy to spot the motor since it's the only one that has two shafts. Otherwise I'm lost.
Nice explain bro.
Awesome. Thank you! 🙏
Hi Can I attach a 300w metal cutting laser in this to cut 1mm aluminium?
There is no problem with 300W cutting 1MM aluminum
This is great. Thank you for sharing and i look forward to your build videos, this is something i am really considering
Looking forward to the series!
great vid, can't wait to get started
Excellent, thank you
Do the tubes wear out? Any safety tips?
I have no idea how I did but I was able to engrave a plate of stainless steel with a cheap diode lazer it was on full power and I put 75 passes on it that took well over 2 hours for a 4x4 logo
I run 5000 Watt laser at work and have to change the co2 gas every 24hrs do you have to change the gas mixture overtime?
cant wait !
Super cool man, thanks!
David DeGea is making this tutorial
Which controller is used to control the laser and stepper motor ?
AWESOME ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO!👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi mister
proud of your video
please i would like to make mine
that they are the necessary accessories for a cnc laser cutter
I am waiting for the day I can buy or make a laser cutter in the form of a "hedge trimmer". One that won't start the hedge on fire. Am I dreaming from another planet ??
I operate a 6000k laser and let me tell ya... it’s an amazing machine to run!
Hi Cole is this a diode laser you have?
I am looking to cut Acylics and engrave aluminium?
IanFordAUS I am from a laser factory, $3500laser cutting machines I can offer. My email: justin@jnruijie.com WhatsApp 0086-133-4627-2057