Thank you for sharing Rob .your brass work was very impressive, getting the bends in and figuring which one to bend first so as not to interfere with the next bends in always interesting 😬 it worked out amazing and that close in angle grinder action had me a little worried 🙂 super fix Rob 👍
Cutting .75mm brass with a 1mm slitting disc is fine as long as you let the cutter do ALL the work. Also it is only the very edge of the disc that could cut you and it has no teeth, so it's not so bad. Just remember to let the disc do all the work, don't push it and keep your fingers out the way 🙂
another great video, can you answer a quick question please, what cutting disc did you use to cut the brass plate, I have used the thin fibre discs but they tend to break up and off the spindle, thanks
Hello, The disc I use in my angle grinder is a 4inch x 1mm stainless steel cutting disc. You can get them in any DIY store. Be careful, they can brake, but they are very tough, LET THE DISC DO ALL THE CUTTING, NEVER FORCE THE CUT IN ANY WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
as you replaced the front motor mount , had you thought about lowering the front of the motor to lower the center of gravity ? . i see no reason why the motor could not be level with the chassis. it even says in the scalextric 19th catalogue that the super formula cars have the lowest possible c of g. which must have been a joke. as you have demonstrated with your vastly improved car it is much better once lowered . i dont understand how scalextric thought it was ok
The amount of weight lowering you'd get by lowering the front of the motor into the chassis while keeping zero offset would be fairly minimal, so not really worth all the extra hassle. The main chassis is still 3mm high, so that is really the main problem, also the body is fairly thick and heavy. To get this car to perform 'well', you'd need to hollow out the body, replace all the running gear and lower all 3 axles to get the chassis to about 1-1.5mm ground clearance. That lot is something I did consider doing to the spare one I am trying to sell, but I'm not sure it's really worth it, I guess it might be something I'll do if the second March does not sell. If I did do that, I'd repaint it as well.
Thank you for sharing Rob .your brass work was very impressive, getting the bends in and figuring which one to bend first so as not to interfere with the next bends in always interesting 😬 it worked out amazing and that close in angle grinder action had me a little worried 🙂 super fix Rob 👍
Cutting .75mm brass with a 1mm slitting disc is fine as long as you let the cutter do ALL the work. Also it is only the very edge of the disc that could cut you and it has no teeth, so it's not so bad. Just remember to let the disc do all the work, don't push it and keep your fingers out the way 🙂
@SwiftSlots that's OK for you to say mate .I only have to look at a tool, and i cut myself .We have a large collection of plasters in my house 🤭🤣
@@SCALE_SLOTCARS_AND_RC Well I'd stay away from tools then 🤣
@@SwiftSlots 🤣😂
I enjoyed watching that 🏎
Great, thank you Andy 🙂
clever fix Rob
Thank you 🙂
WOW! Love this ! 🏁
Yep, there is lots of life in an old Scalextric car with just a little work 🙂
Another great video. Many thanks Rob 😄👌👏🏻
Thank you Keith 🙂
Excellent work very nice.
Thank you Dennis 🙂
First class as always Rob.
Thank you 🙂
another great video, can you answer a quick question please, what cutting disc did you use to cut the brass plate, I have used the thin fibre discs but they tend to break up and off the spindle, thanks
Hello, The disc I use in my angle grinder is a 4inch x 1mm stainless steel cutting disc. You can get them in any DIY store. Be careful, they can brake, but they are very tough, LET THE DISC DO ALL THE CUTTING, NEVER FORCE THE CUT IN ANY WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
great video :) it makes you wonder what scalextric were thinking with this car .
I think they were smoking weed at the time in a 70's styley !!!
@@SwiftSlots hahaha
Nice work turning an old toy into a nicely running slot car.
She does run smooth now 🙂 Thanks.
as you replaced the front motor mount , had you thought about lowering the front of the motor to lower the center of gravity ? . i see no reason why the motor could not be level with the chassis. it even says in the scalextric 19th catalogue that the super formula cars have the lowest possible c of g. which must have been a joke. as you have demonstrated with your vastly improved car it is much better once lowered . i dont understand how scalextric thought it was ok
The amount of weight lowering you'd get by lowering the front of the motor into the chassis while keeping zero offset would be fairly minimal, so not really worth all the extra hassle. The main chassis is still 3mm high, so that is really the main problem, also the body is fairly thick and heavy. To get this car to perform 'well', you'd need to hollow out the body, replace all the running gear and lower all 3 axles to get the chassis to about 1-1.5mm ground clearance.
That lot is something I did consider doing to the spare one I am trying to sell, but I'm not sure it's really worth it, I guess it might be something I'll do if the second March does not sell. If I did do that, I'd repaint it as well.