Super job fellas. I need to show this video to some of the builders I work for to show them what a neat, well organised building site looks like. Cheers.
Hi Tony. Fantastic work. Couple of observations from me (as always!) In some instances, you can obtain permission from the SE to place the beams on the projecting toe of the existing foundation (sometimes requires an engineering brick or two to bring you up to level). This negates the need to cut in sockets - less work! You should look at Cellecta's TETRiS insulated floor system. It uses the same beam system, but the insulation panels replace the blocks reducing overall floor thickness, there are no heavy blocks and installation is rapid - less work! Also, please make sure the DPC is visible and never covered in mortar (or it defeats the purpose) 5mm outside of bed joints would be ideal. It might look neater without, but it's there to protect buildings! I cannot understand why 100mm wide DPC is even for sale as it is not wide enough to prevent a bridge with 102.5mm deep bricks! Really super neat site. Keep up the great work.
Hey Bud wouldn’t expect anything else 😂 I did speak to the building control but he wanted sockets, as for the Cellectas TETRiS I will check that out. For the DPC that’s a fair shout but not to much of a lip in to the cavity because it could become a catch point all the best Tony 👍 have awesome week
@@BuildWithAE lol. Tricky one with the DPC. Many don't realise how critical it is and that poor installation or bridging can cause significant long term damp issues which can go undetected for year, are hard to detect and virtually impossible to rectify! Let me know what you think of TETRiS.
Love the videos the explanation and the overall work is very good in fact everything you do is very very good loved that Tony. Brilliant mate Justin brickright 👍
Hi Justin hope you family and friends are all well, much appreciated, loved the canopy it’s a must we got ares from Surf and Turf, can’t wait to see the porcelain steps have a great week all the best Tony 👍
As always Tony, top work and great explanations. One of my favourite channels here. Might have to relocate to Leamington just to get you guys in do do some work! ;-)
Hi Tony ,same goes for my sites .incidentally I watched the moling of the water main today and didn’t realise that mains over 50mm have to be chlorinated ,I am about to install a 63mm so that was absolutely brilliant info thanks
Great video love your insight. I’m currently about to do a block and beam floor next week and although I know how they are installed is there a max over lap of the beams allowed or can we cut them down and butt them up to each other?
Block and beam should have a 4” bearing on cavity walls unless specified differently and then internal wall can cross over but alway ask the block and Beam people for their layout it’s been engineered designed by there software also photograph it for records don’t forget the DPC under the beams 😉 all the best Tony 👍
Hi gwacha13 generally we do, my understanding of DPM to DPC connection as long as there is 150mm overlap then you are fine have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
I would have really liked to have seen the detail on the way you do the beam overlaps. I have never done that before, but I will be what I do my garage / workshop extension in the near future. Any chance of some detail on that ?
Really love your videos, can you tell me in what circumstances you would use block and beam instead of insulating and concrete. Would the latter be better for insulation? Thanks
Looks great and very well explained. I'm thinking using block and beam for a raised patio so bit like what you have but no superstructure on top, just patio slabs. Just wondering if I'd need that sort of foundation underneath? Thanks for posting.
Proper job lads. 💪 Best way to carry those beams in is to get someone else to do it!! Building inspector made me blackjack the ends of the beams before.
@@BuildWithAE Stop the steel in the beams from rusting at the ends that were facing into the cavity. I think it's in the job description that they have to say something. The young ones are the worse.
@@TurinTuramber “...they have to say something.” Very true with our ‘inspectors’ in the US as well. A tactic I found to be very affective is to leave a little “bait” for them to find. I would purposely leave a loose end here or there that I knew the inspector would inevitably see. Something that could easily be remedied immediately, so that you can still get them to sign off on the task before they leave. The inspector leaves the job thrilled with the ‘fact’ that once again he has saved the day and prevented catastrophe and you get his signature and the go ahead to proceed with the next task. 😉
@@andrewpalij4691 I have done it if beams are pocketed in an existing wall below DPC. On new walls the beams should sit on a DPC. Doesn't really hurt to blackjack them but where does it end. Would you blackjack your PSC lintels for the same reason?
Hi Pat on top of the block and beam will be layer DPM the 125mm celotex the DPM again the wet underfloor heating then 75mm liquid screed then decoupling membrane then Tiles All the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE iIs the ff in the extension going to be higher than the room with the patio doors? Just that the top of the beams look very close to this level already! I'm sure you've got it all worked out!👍
Shame we didn’t get to see more of the brickies 😟. It sends shivers down my spine and takes me back to the bloody awful fountains 🥺. The last ones we did though used polystyrene blocks so much warmer , quicker and easier on the hands and back . Our new build has poly and it’s toastie 😉🧱👍🏼
Can I ask what's the difference between DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) and DPC (Damp Proof Course) and where do they go? Where are they placed? And what's the difference in materials?
Hi Tony, great video, and a very productive day! What area is the build in? Does it not require a radon barrier? Do you not lay concrete oversite in the void under the beams?
Hi Alex much appreciated, in certain parts of the country you do need radon and a concrete over site but it wasn’t required were we are, all the best Tony 👍
Very good video and informative. How long did it take from starting on digging out the footings to ending up with blocks infilled at the end of the video?
Hi Tony. Quick question. What do you think of the Hilti laser level and what model? Thinking of getting a rotary laser was considering topcon as a brand also. Great as always! Stay safe from Hertfordshire. All the best Chris.
Hi Chris Hilti Laser PR30 HVS, Topcon both great makes we got a deal on the Hilti because we bought a load of kit but check out the New Stabila I think RR Buildings on TH-cam has one it’s very impressive it’s how much you want to spend hope this helps all the best Tony 👍
Great video as ever Tony. Can I ask what your view is on thermlite or lightweight blocks vs solid dense concrete blocks? I hear thermlite blocks are great for their thermal capbilities buttends to crack over time and not the best support for resting padstones or RSJs? Do builders prefer 7N solid concrete blocks instead because they last longer?
Hi Rishi absolute rubbish we always use thermalise 7N Ytong blocks we’re ever they are brilliant but each to there own thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Yeah I thought so. I thought 7N thermalise blocks should be good enough. In your experience, do these blocks cause any difficulties when drilling holes in the block to add fixtures and fittings directly to it, such as a kitchen wall unit or a TV bracket?
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@@danjackson2014 depends where you are in the country mate. Where i used to live in SW never specified metal in any footings, where i live now only specify metal if its near a coal mine (as long as you have a coal mine survey saying theres no tunnels within 100metres of building work then dont need metal in the footing)... Sometimes you get a picky architect that adds metal work in on the drawings, but as long as you have the coal survey the BCO has always told me i dont need the metalwork in footings
out of curiosity why block & beam instead of slab. Seems so much more effort, coordination and opportunities for things to go wrong as opposed to a slab pour..
In Texas we do it if the house is close to water or wet land. It allows the building more movement without structural damage. A slab will often crack with movement.
Rats need three things to move into somewhere food source, shelter and plenty of water. Decking and suspended floors only give the rats one of the three.
I would have preferred to see a concrete oversite under the beam and block to ensure that no vegetation can grow and generally to reduce ground moisture vapour from percolating up into the floor structure.
Super job fellas. I need to show this video to some of the builders I work for to show them what a neat, well organised building site looks like. Cheers.
Hi Del it has to be neat and organised else my head goes into a head spin 😂😂 all the best Tony 👍
I was just thinking the same
As someone who is currently researching the methods required for a rear extension, the block and beam overview was invaluable. Many thanks!
Hi Tony. Fantastic work. Couple of observations from me (as always!)
In some instances, you can obtain permission from the SE to place the beams on the projecting toe of the existing foundation (sometimes requires an engineering brick or two to bring you up to level). This negates the need to cut in sockets - less work!
You should look at Cellecta's TETRiS insulated floor system. It uses the same beam system, but the insulation panels replace the blocks reducing overall floor thickness, there are no heavy blocks and installation is rapid - less work!
Also, please make sure the DPC is visible and never covered in mortar (or it defeats the purpose) 5mm outside of bed joints would be ideal. It might look neater without, but it's there to protect buildings! I cannot understand why 100mm wide DPC is even for sale as it is not wide enough to prevent a bridge with 102.5mm deep bricks!
Really super neat site. Keep up the great work.
Hey Bud wouldn’t expect anything else 😂 I did speak to the building control but he wanted sockets, as for the Cellectas TETRiS I will check that out.
For the DPC that’s a fair shout but not to much of a lip in to the cavity because it could become a catch point all the best Tony 👍 have awesome week
@@BuildWithAE lol. Tricky one with the DPC. Many don't realise how critical it is and that poor installation or bridging can cause significant long term damp issues which can go undetected for year, are hard to detect and virtually impossible to rectify! Let me know what you think of TETRiS.
@@ndewhurst1007 will do
Phenomenal details in your videos keep it up lads
Hi Michael much appreciated have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Love the videos the explanation and the overall work is very good in fact everything you do is very very good loved that Tony.
Brilliant mate
Justin brickright 👍
Hi Justin hope you family and friends are all well, much appreciated, loved the canopy it’s a must we got ares from Surf and Turf, can’t wait to see the porcelain steps have a great week all the best Tony 👍
As always Tony, top work and great explanations. One of my favourite channels here. Might have to relocate to Leamington just to get you guys in do do some work! ;-)
Hi Gareth much appreciated but we can come to you all the best Tony 👍
Do you put a DPM on the oversight before laying the block?
Very good ,excellent attention to detail again very well organised ,a credit to you
Hi Chris it’s a must it’s the only way I can’t think unless it’s tidy 😂 all the best Tony 👍
Hi Tony ,same goes for my sites .incidentally I watched the moling of the water main today and didn’t realise that mains over 50mm have to be chlorinated ,I am about to install a 63mm so that was absolutely brilliant info thanks
Really cool. Really nice. Well deserved friday pint. Smashey and nicey
When you said 3 meters 70 I thought bloody hell you got some digging to do🤣 then I realised it was a slip of the tongue. Great as always Tony
Hi J 6481 😂😂😂 thanks made my day all the best Tony 👍
Coming on nice,weather's staying nice😂🤣😂🤣have a good evening
Hi Anthony we were blessed with the weather all the best Tony 👍
Great video love your insight. I’m currently about to do a block and beam floor next week and although I know how they are installed is there a max over lap of the beams allowed or can we cut them down and butt them up to each other?
Block and beam should have a 4” bearing on cavity walls unless specified differently and then internal wall can cross over but alway ask the block and Beam people for their layout it’s been engineered designed by there software also photograph it for records don’t forget the DPC under the beams 😉 all the best Tony 👍
Hi great video! doesn't the DPM need to line the floor into the inner leaf block work? thanks
Hi gwacha13 generally we do, my understanding of DPM to DPC connection as long as there is 150mm overlap then you are fine have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
I would have really liked to have seen the detail on the way you do the beam overlaps. I have never done that before, but I will be what I do my garage / workshop extension in the near future. Any chance of some detail on that ?
Awesome job guys 🏴👍
Hi yorwerth much appreciated all the best Tony 👍
Really love your videos, can you tell me in what circumstances you would use block and beam instead of insulating and concrete. Would the latter be better for insulation? Thanks
Hi SuperTehri, more cost effective basically. Cheers Tony 👍
Great vid sir!
Have you ever installed a insulated block and beam system? Would you recommend it or just opt for standard concrete blocks?
Looks great and very well explained. I'm thinking using block and beam for a raised patio so bit like what you have but no superstructure on top, just patio slabs. Just wondering if I'd need that sort of foundation underneath? Thanks for posting.
Hi Wayne you will require some type of footings but maybe a lot less depth, speak to an architect or engineer all the best Tony 👍
Awesome work 👍👍
Thanks for watching Gary 👍
Proper job lads. 💪 Best way to carry those beams in is to get someone else to do it!! Building inspector made me blackjack the ends of the beams before.
Hi Geralt 😂😂😂 that would be awesome building control never heard of that before did he give a reason all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Stop the steel in the beams from rusting at the ends that were facing into the cavity.
I think it's in the job description that they have to say something. The young ones are the worse.
@@TurinTuramber “...they have to say something.”
Very true with our ‘inspectors’ in the US as well. A tactic I found to be very affective is to leave a little “bait” for them to find. I would purposely leave a loose end here or there that I knew the inspector would inevitably see. Something that could easily be remedied immediately, so that you can still get them to sign off on the task before they leave. The inspector leaves the job thrilled with the ‘fact’ that once again he has saved the day and prevented catastrophe and you get his signature and the go ahead to proceed with the next task. 😉
We have always black jacked the ends it easier than wrapping DPC round them.
@@andrewpalij4691 I have done it if beams are pocketed in an existing wall below DPC. On new walls the beams should sit on a DPC. Doesn't really hurt to blackjack them but where does it end. Would you blackjack your PSC lintels for the same reason?
Lovely video mate, thanks for sharing it
Glad you enjoyed it Py 👍
@@BuildWithAE yes, I m watching your content gradually, also recommend ed it to other friends
Very helpful but how come the block and beam construction as opposed to pouring a concrete slab ?
Cheaper mate
Hi. Do you need to insulate the floor? I’ve only done a solid floor before and inspector wanted 100mm celotex in the floor. Thanks
Amazing job!
Thanks Rob 👍
Another great video. I like the sneaky bit of drone footage (or was that just a long pole??)
Hi frogeye much appreciated really pleased about the drone all the best Tony 👍
How many blocks can I use in 216m2 area
What will be the next layers on top of the floor to finish floor?
Hi Pat on top of the block and beam will be layer DPM the 125mm celotex the DPM again the wet underfloor heating then 75mm liquid screed then decoupling membrane then Tiles
All the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE iIs the ff in the extension going to be higher than the room with the patio doors? Just that the top of the beams look very close to this level already! I'm sure you've got it all worked out!👍
Hi Adrian we have it’s something that you always should check twice just in case all the best Tony 👍
Loving this series Tony. Brilliant stuff mate.
What camera do you use btw?
Hi Marcus much appreciated we use Go Pro 7 and 8 and also use the Fuji TX3 and a Mavric Mini Drone all the best Tony 👍
Nice video, thank you
Shame we didn’t get to see more of the brickies 😟. It sends shivers down my spine and takes me back to the bloody awful fountains 🥺. The last ones we did though used polystyrene blocks so much warmer , quicker and easier on the hands and back . Our new build has poly and it’s toastie 😉🧱👍🏼
Hi Steve more brickwork on the next one bud, I should look into them they are a great product all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
Can I ask what's the difference between DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) and DPC (Damp Proof Course) and where do they go? Where are they placed? And what's the difference in materials?
Hi Tony, what model is the Hilti site level that you use? Where did you buy it from? Great content as always mate!
Hi Tony, great video, and a very productive day! What area is the build in? Does it not require a radon barrier? Do you not lay concrete oversite in the void under the beams?
Hi Alex much appreciated, in certain parts of the country you do need radon and a concrete over site but it wasn’t required were we are, all the best Tony 👍
Very good video and informative. How long did it take from starting on digging out the footings to ending up with blocks infilled at the end of the video?
Hi Sultan much appreciated 21/2 weeks including drainage all the best Tony 👍
Do the blocks have any reinforement in them?
Hi John they are 7n blocks not required unless driving a car on it all the best Tony 👍
What’s the load rating on this floor?
Great video.
Thanks Jeff have a awesome week 👍
How about air bricks?
Neat work 👍🏻
Thanks Viktor 👍
Hi Tony. Quick question. What do you think of the Hilti laser level and what model?
Thinking of getting a rotary laser was considering topcon as a brand also.
Great as always! Stay safe from Hertfordshire.
All the best
Chris.
Hi Chris Hilti Laser PR30 HVS, Topcon both great makes we got a deal on the Hilti because we bought a load of kit but check out the New Stabila I think RR Buildings on TH-cam has one it’s very impressive it’s how much you want to spend hope this helps all the best Tony 👍
Tidy job as always Tony. Why did you go with BnB and not a poured concrete floor? And which method is quicker?
Hi Matt were ever I can I always introduce BnB it’s quicker and more cost effective, all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Great video as ever Tony. Can I ask what your view is on thermlite or lightweight blocks vs solid dense concrete blocks? I hear thermlite blocks are great for their thermal capbilities buttends to crack over time and not the best support for resting padstones or RSJs? Do builders prefer 7N solid concrete blocks instead because they last longer?
Hi Rishi absolute rubbish we always use thermalise 7N Ytong blocks we’re ever they are brilliant but each to there own thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Yeah I thought so. I thought 7N thermalise blocks should be good enough. In your experience, do these blocks cause any difficulties when drilling holes in the block to add fixtures and fittings directly to it, such as a kitchen wall unit or a TV bracket?
No buddy 👍
sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Jonas Colton Instablaster ;)
No metal work in the footings.?
Hi Dan none needed all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE they put metal work in the foundations of my SHED... Can't see how a build this big doesn't need it
@@danjackson2014 depends where you are in the country mate. Where i used to live in SW never specified metal in any footings, where i live now only specify metal if its near a coal mine (as long as you have a coal mine survey saying theres no tunnels within 100metres of building work then dont need metal in the footing)... Sometimes you get a picky architect that adds metal work in on the drawings, but as long as you have the coal survey the BCO has always told me i dont need the metalwork in footings
I need you guys to come and do my extension in Leicestershire
Hi Michal would be happy to all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE As soon as our architect will have plans and drawings ready, (2-3 weeks), I will get in touch for quotation.
Insane!
Hi Lloyd 👍 all the best Tony
Super. Thank you
out of curiosity why block & beam instead of slab. Seems so much more effort, coordination and opportunities for things to go wrong as opposed to a slab pour..
In Texas we do it if the house is close to water or wet land. It allows the building more movement without structural damage. A slab will often crack with movement.
Why does block and beam get specified by architects instead of slab on grade foundations?
Hi Sam it’s cheaper and quicker much appreciated all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome weekend
Why didn't you just pour a concrete floor for the extension..or even the whole project ? Expence/speed ?
Hi Spanish peaches block and beam much quicker and more cost effective all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Many thanks for your reply. I have an extension similar to this which is to be constructed in a few months. Food for thought.
what happens when rodents occupy the void underneath? How do you prevent this?
Hi Charles I have never had any issues with rodents but there is always a first but not on my watch 😂 all the best Tony 👍
Rats need three things to move into somewhere food source, shelter and plenty of water. Decking and suspended floors only give the rats one of the three.
Just keep throwing rotten fruit into the end of your neighbours garden. That should do it ;) (just kidding)
2:40... I presume you meant to say ''three hundred & seventy millimetres"... 🤫
Air vents ? 🧐🧐
Hi Ashley air vents always are fitted as per Litecast drawings all the best Tony 👍
Where is your air flow
I would have preferred to see a concrete oversite under the beam and block to ensure that no vegetation can grow and generally to reduce ground moisture vapour from percolating up into the floor structure.
Do you need to limit the number of fat people using the floor at the same time or is it all good?
PROPER BUILDERS
Standard building the same as we all do it
🧱 🧱🧱👍🏻
These buildings are rotten. Should be demolished.