The light should turn off on it's own likely within 3 drive cycles.. That would be an engine started cold and driven normally til and during operating temperature 3 times. This is similar timing to when a gas cap isn't tightened and triggers the light for example. In my case I reset the light with an OBDII scanner and it did not come back on. Where before replacing this module, I reset the light with the scan tool and it returned.
Jose, The error codes are for any evap leak.. in the beginning of the video I discussed the common failures. The gas cap, the evap lines... etc.. While I was lucky enough to replace the items and that resolved my problem under the cost of a diagnostic fee, there comes a time when you may want to employ professionals as a smoke test may be needed to detect hard to find leaks.. Do your due diligence and look over the evap lines for breaks and also observe the fuel filler neck and evap canister..
@@zerializing thank you for the response, but after 2 to 3 days after replace the part the engine light came off. I should of did a hard reset but didn't want to disconnect the battery cause of the location (behind the driver tire wall)
@@91Liljunior Hey Jose for future reference, you can disconnect the battery at the driver side strut tower.. but yes a few drive cycles can be required for the code to clear since, the evap system is not fully tested each drive cycle. Glad to know this video has helped you.
I have a 2015 Dodge/Journey AWD and I'm having problems refueling, the fuel pump keeps tripping and it takes a long time to fill the tank. I already changed the purge valve (canister) and it didn't solve the problem. Could my supply problem be with this evaporator valve?
I'd take the large hose off of the ESIM.. It should go to the tank through the vent valve, try to blow air through it if you hear air in the tank should mean the valve isn't clogged but if not there is a restriction I'd think.
When i attempted to remove the bracket the bolts just spun, are there nuts on top of the bracket too or are mine just stripped to shit? I can feel something spinning on top when spinning the nuts and attempted to get pliers and vice grips in there to hold it but no luck
If the lines are good and there is no visible leak and you used a genuine mopar gas cap, I would say leak detection pump is the likely cause of your issue.. its an easy replacement and after replacing you should know within a few drive cycles whether it was your issue.
@@zerializing I've only used NAPA caps. When the code pops up, I just do one thing. I clean the rubber gasket that's glued around the receptacle and mates with the gasket on the gas cap. I guess it gets so dirty that it doesn't allow the cap to seal. It comes and goes. I'm gonna get a Mopar cap just to see what happens.
So what location is P0456 code? Like where is the part that need to be fixed located bc I don’t want to have to change everything when it’s just one thing
It is one of those parts, maybe! The only true way to know where in the fuel system it is, is to smoke test the system, otherwise we are all guessing. Even with our friend here replacing all these parts, it still cost him less than a trip to the dealer. Fault codes are NOT part numbers, that is why you either do the smoke test and know for sure what part it is, or go this route.
It's been almost 2 years and the light hasn't come back on and I spent less than what it would have cost for diagnostic at a shop? I know enough to know when I'm in over my head, but I appreciate the feedback.
I should have also prefaced this video with this is my own personal vehicle in my own driveway... This video is informational to give people an idea of possibilities.. I'm not a mechanic, but I also do not take my car in for things I can fix myself. I have had this car for over 7 years and I have never taken it into a shop, I have performed all of the maintenance myself and it runs great with no lights and healthy engine and transmission at almost 150k miles.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you my friend. I also went through the gascap and the purge valve so I knew I had to work my way through the evap system. THANKS for the video!!
Thank you for posting this video. I've also replaced the other 2 parts you mentioned, and I'm really hoping this does the trick.
Hey brother, really just wanted to drop a thanks for posting. Simple replacement saved me $200. 🙌
Glad to help brother. THAT'S THE GOAL!
He easiest way to test the tank ventilation valve is through the hose connected to the evaporator valve? The panel does not report any errors.
About how long after replacement did the engine light go off?
The light should turn off on it's own likely within 3 drive cycles.. That would be an engine started cold and driven normally til and during operating temperature 3 times. This is similar timing to when a gas cap isn't tightened and triggers the light for example. In my case I reset the light with an OBDII scanner and it did not come back on. Where before replacing this module, I reset the light with the scan tool and it returned.
@@zerializing okay, thanks
I like your video i also have changed the same 2 parts that you have but my light keeps coming on about the time the fuel gauge read the same thing
Thank you Sir
No problem.. Glad my video has helped some people.
@@zerializing yes it did i got the job done because of you video. I THANK YOU AND MY WIFE AS WELL! You rock
Thank you for the video. I changed mine but check engine light still on. Autozone said this was the issue but any ideas?
Jose, The error codes are for any evap leak.. in the beginning of the video I discussed the common failures. The gas cap, the evap lines... etc.. While I was lucky enough to replace the items and that resolved my problem under the cost of a diagnostic fee, there comes a time when you may want to employ professionals as a smoke test may be needed to detect hard to find leaks.. Do your due diligence and look over the evap lines for breaks and also observe the fuel filler neck and evap canister..
@@zerializing thank you for the response, but after 2 to 3 days after replace the part the engine light came off. I should of did a hard reset but didn't want to disconnect the battery cause of the location (behind the driver tire wall)
@@91Liljunior Hey Jose for future reference, you can disconnect the battery at the driver side strut tower.. but yes a few drive cycles can be required for the code to clear since, the evap system is not fully tested each drive cycle. Glad to know this video has helped you.
Great video I’ll try today and let you know if works for my 14 Journey thanks 🙏
@zeriallizing I have the same problem on my 2013 dodge journey my question is when the change that plastic pump the code when away ?
Did you get exhaust fumes inside your aircon vent ?
I have same issue 2008 dodge nitro and yes a little bit of smell comes in I've done all this still same issues for me
No I did not.. This sounds like a different issue maybe an exhaust leak under the vehicle or a fuel leak in the engine compartment.
Hey, did that replacement work?
@@ufclegend3040 yes check engine light has been off for several years now.
I have a 2015 Dodge/Journey AWD and I'm having problems refueling, the fuel pump keeps tripping and it takes a long time to fill the tank.
I already changed the purge valve (canister) and it didn't solve the problem. Could my supply problem be with this evaporator valve?
Probably not. On top of the tank is a vent valve it is probably clogged creating pressure in the tank when filling.
I'd take the large hose off of the ESIM.. It should go to the tank through the vent valve, try to blow air through it if you hear air in the tank should mean the valve isn't clogged but if not there is a restriction I'd think.
When i attempted to remove the bracket the bolts just spun, are there nuts on top of the bracket too or are mine just stripped to shit? I can feel something spinning on top when spinning the nuts and attempted to get pliers and vice grips in there to hold it but no luck
There were no nuts on top.. sounds like yours may be crossthreaded. That said it's not necessary to remove that bracket, just convenient.
I have an '09 2.4L, p0455 keeps popping up. I've changed two gas caps & one purge valve. Should I try this?
If the lines are good and there is no visible leak and you used a genuine mopar gas cap, I would say leak detection pump is the likely cause of your issue.. its an easy replacement and after replacing you should know within a few drive cycles whether it was your issue.
@@zerializing I've only used NAPA caps. When the code pops up, I just do one thing. I clean the rubber gasket that's glued around the receptacle and mates with the gasket on the gas cap. I guess it gets so dirty that it doesn't allow the cap to seal. It comes and goes. I'm gonna get a Mopar cap just to see what happens.
So what location is P0456 code? Like where is the part that need to be fixed located bc I don’t want to have to change everything when it’s just one thing
It is one of those parts, maybe! The only true way to know where in the fuel system it is, is to smoke test the system, otherwise we are all guessing. Even with our friend here replacing all these parts, it still cost him less than a trip to the dealer. Fault codes are NOT part numbers, that is why you either do the smoke test and know for sure what part it is, or go this route.
Total dumb question here... Was that the gas tank this was connected to? Would the gas level matter?
This connects to the vapor canister.. fuel level shouldn't matter.
@@zerializing thank you! I don't really know much about cars, but I'm Technician by trade so I wanted to give it a shot at fixing this on my own.
Hi... I just wanna ask if whats the mopar part number?
Hey John for my year the part number is shown at 5:00
On a 2015 journey is at the same location?
Yes it should be
I have the same problem. It only gives me the p0456 code. Can the cause of the problem?Dodge journey2013
It fixed my issue... I replaced all of the parts in the beginning of the video and the part in this video resolved it. It's been almost a year.
You have no clue what you are doing you are just throwing parts at it hoping something will work.
It's been almost 2 years and the light hasn't come back on and I spent less than what it would have cost for diagnostic at a shop? I know enough to know when I'm in over my head, but I appreciate the feedback.
I should have also prefaced this video with this is my own personal vehicle in my own driveway... This video is informational to give people an idea of possibilities.. I'm not a mechanic, but I also do not take my car in for things I can fix myself. I have had this car for over 7 years and I have never taken it into a shop, I have performed all of the maintenance myself and it runs great with no lights and healthy engine and transmission at almost 150k miles.
When a car goes over 100,000 miles might as well replace all these part to avoid revisit and future problems -