I got mine at 80k miles 6 speed sport diff. One owner, old man. Bone stock. I pretty quickly had to do water pump, thermostat, pcv, and coolant pipes cause one broke. I fixed it myslef, huge pain in the butt and totally doable with acess to variety of tools. I made it stage 2 and dont regret buying it even tho ive already experienced "audi b8 problems". Dont buy a cheap one or a tuned one. Pay top dollar when a 6 speed low miles shows up, and just plug away at the maintenance.
I own a 2012 Audi 3.0t with around 185k miles. Excellent car, very reliable. Had to replace the water pump, coolant crossover pipe, and pcv; which for a car of that mileage is really just maintenance; but it never left me stranded.
I bought one about a year ago (2011). Within the first 2 days of owning it the Mechatronic went bad. Luckily the dealership replaced it for free, as they should. Since then, nothing has gone wrong with the car that wasn't aftermarket. Definitly harder and way more expensive to work on than my old 2012 Mazda 3, but the joy of driving it is worth it. Everytime I hear that supercharger whine, I am filled with bliss. Also highly recommend getting a DeWalt 90 degree drill adapter. Helps getting in the hard to reach spots.
Can confirm, mine broke at 198k. Piston rings gave from clogged cats. In the process of dropping a 96k mile engine in it in the next few weeks. Going with the whole overhaul. I do envy the stick ones mine is Auto. Can praise the how reliable they are, highly recommend they are super balanced platform and my favorite car to drive.
Pretty accurate. Have a 2013 B8.5 S4 based in South Africa. Had DSG mechatronic failure and thermostat issues and had them both fixed. That’s it, still love this car!
After owning a 2010 DSG for around 5 years and 60k miles, i've seemingly had all the issues you can run into. The cats especially are an issue with heat breaking them apart and blowing out the back. Buy as new as you can, and have at least a few thousand put away in a repair fund. The car itself was wonderful to drive. Passing was never an issue, and tunnels are an experience with an open box intake.
Thank you!! Yeah we showed the good side. Nick used some weird paint on the other side that was supposed to be high quality…ended up being pretty rough lol
I had a 2010 for 8 years. I put 72000kms on it during that time. It was a stage 1 car from factory (Stasis package) and between maintenance and broken things it cost me thousands. I would do it again in a heartbeat. That car was amazing and winter driving bliss. They are expensive and the older ones have known issues. If you know what you’re getting into go ahead and get one. Pricey but if you can afford it they’re great!
@@tjgotbands Yup. Especially if you find one with maintenance history. The face lifted models have most of the issues (water pump, thermostat, transmission mechatronic unit) addressed. If you find one that’s passes the inspection process buy it and keep a few grand in the bank for potential maintenance intervals on consumables like driveline oils, brakes and general items like coil packs and plugs. The newer cars command more asking price but their reliability is quite good. If you’re interested in one of these cars I’d suggest shopping around and if you find one buy it!
@@ivancliff2514 bro i test drove a couple and one of them had a stage one tune. holy crap. i’ve never been in a faster car before. i’m sold on it bro i want one. it was a 2016 s4. that’s a pretty reliable year?
@@tjgotbands Yup that’s basically as good as they get as far as the supercharged S4s go. That’s the last year of the B8.5 generation. Keep in mind these cars do NOT tolerate skipping maintenance and if it’s been tuned it’s even more important. These cars are quite reliable but it would be wise to get it checked out by a reputable shop. If you’re buying a car that’s local to your area try and find which mechanic shop the previous owner used and continue to bring the car there (assuming the shop/dealership is reputable) Also look for a car with the rear sport differential. Having owned cars with and without it I can tell you it’s a huge box to have checked off.
I love my B8 S4 so much, picked up a few months ago. I owned a Supercharged Mini Cooper, but with a new Baby wanted 4 doors and comfort. At the same time I could not own a car without the Supercharger noise anymore, it's just an addicting noise. So I finally found my 'Attainable' dream car. :)
Whenever you have the blower off - spend a few extra dollars on whatever else is in the valley.... PCV goes... change PCV, thermostat, and y-pipe. Thermostat goes... change thermostat, pcv, and ypipe... etc
I have a 2012 base model audi a4 b8.5 and so far it's holding up really well. Now it's time to start modding! Just wanted to make sure it was a good car before doing anything to it. So far so good
I bought my first Audi January of last year from auction. 2014 s4. Had 168k. Bad plugs and bad rack. Replaced all plugs and rack. It runs great, looks great. Came with Exhaust and upper pully. Quite sure it's tuned but cannot find out by who. No vin records. Almost to 180k now, timing chain clacks a little on startup but nothing im worried about yet.
Bought a 2011 6spd model brand new and still have it. Has Stage II APR, Eurocode Sway Bars, billet aluminum steering stabilizer, strut bar, and factory sport diff. It is fast and handles way better than it should. I love it and intend to part with it never. This was the last of the breed. Is it a proper "sports car"? By definition, me thinks not, but it gives up very little in return for more seats, a decent trunk, and fantastic AWD.
So essentially you're saying it's not really any harder than working on an infiniti or something. Talking as someone who's done transmission jobs, valve covers, and subframes on my G37 and tbh even I stayed way from German cars. But I'm seeing the value in these cars are prices drop, I just wanna know what I'm getting into.
Yeah I would agree with that assessment-definitely in the Infiniti realm when it comes to difficulty. My guess would be that the parts for a VQ V6 (along with the rest of the car) would be cheaper, but this particular Audi powertrain isn’t too bad. They definitely are pretty solid long-term assuming you can afford the pricey maintenance. I’ve been seeing them drop too, but I think that’s because of the German sports sedan stigma as well as the high failure rate for the DCT. I’m excited they’re getting affordable again because I really want one!
Personally, I prefer my 4m Q7 CREC motor that have 2x the injectors that eliminates carbon build up and carbon cleaning, bolt on pulley instead of the pressed ones - no need for 'service mode' for the bumper and lots of space to work with. I just drop the ride height w/stage 1 = merging/passing is effortless & instantaneous
I tried tackling water pump thermostat job at home got stuck at the belt tensioner for the water pump after front end was off and supercharger lifted off
Hello! Sorry for the late response. I would say any Audi with the 3rd Gen 2.0L (EA888) would be a solid buy. Especially when the 2.0L is paired with a ZF 8-speed. The 7-speed DCT (in the GTI and R) is a solid trans with respect to reliability too, but I’d put my money on the ZF when it comes to longevity. Basically, you’ll want to look at 2016/2017 and newer to get the most dependable powertrain. The newer gen-4 evo 2.0L should be a safe bet as well, but given it’s only been around for 2 years, we just don’t yet have enough data to say one way or another. I’d also say any 5-cylinder Audi or one with the 3.0L supercharged V6 like in the B8/B8.5 S4, the C6/C7 A6, and the first gen (8R) SQ5…though they’re harder to find, you can also get a regular Q5 with a detuned version of the 3.0 supercharged engine. As far as new though, I’d recommend a B9 A4 before the end production after this year!
Probably a 3-5 year old Camaro SS or Mustang GT, a C6 Corvette, C5 Z06, a new GR86/BRZ, ND Miata, 987 Boxster (I think a 987 Cayman too), Jetta GLI, WRX, 370Z etc. Depends on what you’re going for i.e performance, comfort, luxury, manual or auto. I’d say a 16+ Camaro is a fantastic performer and is a decent cruiser too (I’ve only driven a 17’ SS). The Q50 red sport is very fast, I think it looks good, and it’s got a nice interior despite being slightly old feeling. They are better than people say, but they aren’t great performance cars…they fall behind the competition in that sense.
Considering picking one of these up to replace my n55 335i that I just smacked a deer in. How do they compare maintenance wise? That's my biggest concern
The N55 is a pretty notoriously unreliable engine while the 3.0 supercharged has proven to be a durable engine long-term. I’d say the B8 S4 won’t be as lively or playful in corners, but it’ll be a cheaper ownership experience. It’s hard to be a 3-series for daily driving fun, but I think the combo of the S4’s sound and relative reliability make up for the less capable chassis.
I believe it was for an injector, though I don’t specifically remember the code we pulled. Given how easy removing the supercharger is, it’s not horrible labor-wise to replace anything underneath it from injectors to intake plenum gaskets etc. A year or so earlier the CEL was triggered by a bad motor mount believe it or not!
Hey I been thinking to sell my 07 Tundra Truck, to get a S4 o S5 to enjoy the drive. Do you think can be a good idea to sell a reliable truck to get a unreliable car, why unreliable ? coz always is same problem (timing) Any idea/opinion thanks
Well the B8/B8.5 S4 has some issues, but it’s generally pretty reliable. The S5 got the same 3.0-liter supercharged V6 for the 2013 model year, so those will be similarly reliable to the S4 assuming you get the stick. It’s the B7 S4 and B8 S5 (2008-2012) that have the 4.2-liter V8 that are known for timing chain problems…more so the B7 S4. Ultimately, it depends on what you want to spend on maintenance. Regardless of which engine you have on your Tundra, the S4/S5 will be more to maintain. That said, you’ll be saving on gas and consumables should be cheaper. If I had the money, I’d 100% buy an S4/S5 from 2013 and up, but I can really only afford my Honda at the moment. I’d say go for it as long as you’re comfortable with what you’re getting into!
@@aveautomotive2441 Yes is a little hard to choose But I definitely would like to have a S4/5 I know they’re prices are not cheap Yes I would like to get a manual transmission & about my Tundra is v8 5.7 If I make a desission, I have to sell my truck first, is I little hard to choose what to do, coz truck’s always are for multiuse. But thanks for ur tips & opinions
If you’re comfortable with the cost of parts and maintenance, hell yeah! They are reliable, but still expensive. Fantastic fun to drive and a wonderful daily even if you’re 6’4
Absolutely! The 1.8 is a solid little engine, assuming all the necessary maintenance has been done. They are sensitive to late oil changes and improper oil and some people recommend upgrading the water pump with the plastic impeller to an aftermarket metal unit, but given it’s a 10 year old car, I’d imagine that has been done at some point. I’d say depending on the known history of the vehicle and the price it can absolutely be a solid daily!
I’m thinking of getting a used Audi s5 2013 for college, which are going for around 20-25k dollars with 60k-80k miles. Do you think it is a good choice?
The 2013 has the 3.0 supercharged V6, so it’s an excellent engine. That said, if it’s for college, we’d be curious to know your budget for maintenance and how many miles a year you think you’ll be driving. If you can find one with a manual it’s a great choice if you’re driving 10k-15k miles a year.
I just bought a 2013 Audi S5 with 104k miles listed for 19k bargained down to 17k cause had to get the head gasket vent valve replaced, 100% don’t regret it. I’ve driven it around 2k miles and it is fucking amazing, get a cold air intake and x pipes for under 1000$ and it’ll sound 25% better too
@@aripangelinan About 6 months ago picked up a 2009 Audi A6 3.0T and besides a few electrical issues and door locks, the motor has held up very well, put about 5k miles on it, still runs very smooth and nice for its age.
I just bought a 2013 Audi S5 with a 104k miles, here’s some things to look for- DSG serviced every 40k miles, any coolant leaks, mine had a leak it was listed for 19k I bargained the guy down to 17k. Get an inspection on it, only 100$ to get it professionally inspected.
Hello! I’d say it depends on the S4 and your budget. The B9 S4 (2017 and up) has the turbocharged 3.0-liter engine and the ZF 8-speed. The 3.0 doesn’t seem to problematic thus far, though I’d be more comfortable betting on a manual B8 or B8.5 (2010-2016) and it’s 3.0-liter supercharged engine. The Q50 Red Sport won’t have the same build quality as either S4 and the transmissions are questionable when it comes to longevity. The VR30DDTT is a pretty solid engine though. The Q50 might be slightly cheaper to maintain than the S4, but that’s the major benefit (that and it’s more powerful). Hope that helps!
Agreed mostly-we stated that in the video-though it’s more than just transmission issues (plus the transmission issues were exclusive to the DCT. Get a manual and life is good!). Depending on service records a B8 is still a very good buy given they can be had for a bargain compared to the B8.5.
In some ways, yes. It’s new enough that it’s quite safe, it’s AWD, the manual is easy to operate, it’s comfortable and quiet, and (with stock power and AWD) isn’t so fast or unruly that you’ll wrap it around a tree like a mustang lol. That said, they are expensive to maintain despite being quite reliable. Tires are like $1k and other routine maintenance items like brakes are a good chunk more expensive than the equivalent Honda Accord/Toyota Camry. If you can afford it comfortably, I think it’s a great first car-just be careful and stay up on the repairs/maintenance. And genuinely be careful with speed. Allegedly, I accidentally found myself cruising at 94 mph on the highway because it handles high speed so confidently. Pop the cruise control on to avoid tickets 😂
@@caseycappoen251 in what way? I purchased an a6 3.0t only downside I’m experiencing is the repairs other than that I wanted to make the car 450hp it’s 300stock
I forget what the code was for, but it didn’t affect drivability. I’ll ask him and get back if you’re curious! He was selling it to the dealer he bought his Golf R from and they gave him an offer knowing it was on and what it was for. Amazingly, it was only the 3rd time he’d ever had it come on during his ownership.
I got mine at 80k miles 6 speed sport diff. One owner, old man. Bone stock. I pretty quickly had to do water pump, thermostat, pcv, and coolant pipes cause one broke. I fixed it myslef, huge pain in the butt and totally doable with acess to variety of tools. I made it stage 2 and dont regret buying it even tho ive already experienced "audi b8 problems". Dont buy a cheap one or a tuned one. Pay top dollar when a 6 speed low miles shows up, and just plug away at the maintenance.
Audi’s 3.0 supercharged is a decent motor reliability wise and with good performance. Starting to see some high mileage ones hitting 200k
There is a ton at 200k plus i have seen some at over 300k+
Mines currently 140k and still drives and runs perfect
Good to know, ‘cuz I’m flying to buy one next week and driving it back 👍👍
@@theadmiral4625 careful of rockchips
@@chvse6395mines 2012 at 6.2k miles👌🏼
the smiles and giggles in the driving impressions segment sold me on getting one of these
They are tremendous fun! Never failed to make me laugh
I own a 2012 Audi 3.0t with around 185k miles. Excellent car, very reliable. Had to replace the water pump, coolant crossover pipe, and pcv; which for a car of that mileage is really just maintenance; but it never left me stranded.
it's crazy how well a car will take care of you when you take care of it
Exactly. People act like components don’t go bad.
I've bumped up to 10w60 on mine with 174k miles and runs amazing and timing chain clack on startup is gone
I bought one about a year ago (2011). Within the first 2 days of owning it the Mechatronic went bad. Luckily the dealership replaced it for free, as they should. Since then, nothing has gone wrong with the car that wasn't aftermarket. Definitly harder and way more expensive to work on than my old 2012 Mazda 3, but the joy of driving it is worth it. Everytime I hear that supercharger whine, I am filled with bliss.
Also highly recommend getting a DeWalt 90 degree drill adapter. Helps getting in the hard to reach spots.
Can confirm, mine broke at 198k. Piston rings gave from clogged cats. In the process of dropping a 96k mile engine in it in the next few weeks. Going with the whole overhaul. I do envy the stick ones mine is Auto. Can praise the how reliable they are, highly recommend they are super balanced platform and my favorite car to drive.
what are the signs of clogged or failing cats? does the car have some sort of warning when they do fail so I can stop driving and look into the cats.
Pretty accurate. Have a 2013 B8.5 S4 based in South Africa. Had DSG mechatronic failure and thermostat issues and had them both fixed. That’s it, still love this car!
The resonated awe touring exhaust is a mandatory upgrade on these cars for enthusiasts.
After owning a 2010 DSG for around 5 years and 60k miles, i've seemingly had all the issues you can run into. The cats especially are an issue with heat breaking them apart and blowing out the back.
Buy as new as you can, and have at least a few thousand put away in a repair fund. The car itself was wonderful to drive. Passing was never an issue, and tunnels are an experience with an open box intake.
Thoroughly enjoyed that one. Excellent info you don’t see anywhere else. Those yellow brake calipers! Nice.
Thank you!! Yeah we showed the good side. Nick used some weird paint on the other side that was supposed to be high quality…ended up being pretty rough lol
I had a 2010 for 8 years. I put 72000kms on it during that time. It was a stage 1 car from factory (Stasis package) and between maintenance and broken things it cost me thousands. I would do it again in a heartbeat. That car was amazing and winter driving bliss. They are expensive and the older ones have known issues. If you know what you’re getting into go ahead and get one. Pricey but if you can afford it they’re great!
i’m thinking about getting a b8.5 s4. probably either a 2014-2016. i hear these years are more reliable?
@@tjgotbands Yup. Especially if you find one with maintenance history. The face lifted models have most of the issues (water pump, thermostat, transmission mechatronic unit) addressed. If you find one that’s passes the inspection process buy it and keep a few grand in the bank for potential maintenance intervals on consumables like driveline oils, brakes and general items like coil packs and plugs. The newer cars command more asking price but their reliability is quite good. If you’re interested in one of these cars I’d suggest shopping around and if you find one buy it!
@@ivancliff2514 bro i test drove a couple and one of them had a stage one tune. holy crap. i’ve never been in a faster car before. i’m sold on it bro i want one. it was a 2016 s4. that’s a pretty reliable year?
@@tjgotbands Yup that’s basically as good as they get as far as the supercharged S4s go. That’s the last year of the B8.5 generation. Keep in mind these cars do NOT tolerate skipping maintenance and if it’s been tuned it’s even more important. These cars are quite reliable but it would be wise to get it checked out by a reputable shop. If you’re buying a car that’s local to your area try and find which mechanic shop the previous owner used and continue to bring the car there (assuming the shop/dealership is reputable) Also look for a car with the rear sport differential. Having owned cars with and without it I can tell you it’s a huge box to have checked off.
I love my B8 S4 so much, picked up a few months ago.
I owned a Supercharged Mini Cooper, but with a new Baby wanted 4 doors and comfort. At the same time I could not own a car without the Supercharger noise anymore, it's just an addicting noise.
So I finally found my 'Attainable' dream car. :)
Whenever you have the blower off - spend a few extra dollars on whatever else is in the valley.... PCV goes... change PCV, thermostat, and y-pipe. Thermostat goes... change thermostat, pcv, and ypipe... etc
Absolutely-good advice. Can’t go wrong doing “While you’re in there work”.
I had a 2012, absolutely loved it. The lower rad hose started blowing off so I got rid of it. I still miss it, never figured out the problem
I have a 2012 base model audi a4 b8.5 and so far it's holding up really well. Now it's time to start modding! Just wanted to make sure it was a good car before doing anything to it. So far so good
I bought my first Audi January of last year from auction. 2014 s4.
Had 168k. Bad plugs and bad rack.
Replaced all plugs and rack. It runs great, looks great.
Came with Exhaust and upper pully. Quite sure it's tuned but cannot find out by who. No vin records.
Almost to 180k now, timing chain clacks a little on startup but nothing im worried about yet.
I think the timing chain rattling on startup is the tensioner pulley
I bumped upto a 10w60 and timing chain clack went away, also have 174k miles and oil consumption went way down
Bought a 2011 6spd model brand new and still have it. Has Stage II APR, Eurocode Sway Bars, billet aluminum steering stabilizer, strut bar, and factory sport diff. It is fast and handles way better than it should. I love it and intend to part with it never. This was the last of the breed. Is it a proper "sports car"? By definition, me thinks not, but it gives up very little in return for more seats, a decent trunk, and fantastic AWD.
Recently bought one a 6MT as well and I’m obsessed with it. Have my fare shaper of euro cars and I love them
So essentially you're saying it's not really any harder than working on an infiniti or something.
Talking as someone who's done transmission jobs, valve covers, and subframes on my G37 and tbh even I stayed way from German cars.
But I'm seeing the value in these cars are prices drop, I just wanna know what I'm getting into.
Yeah I would agree with that assessment-definitely in the Infiniti realm when it comes to difficulty. My guess would be that the parts for a VQ V6 (along with the rest of the car) would be cheaper, but this particular Audi powertrain isn’t too bad. They definitely are pretty solid long-term assuming you can afford the pricey maintenance.
I’ve been seeing them drop too, but I think that’s because of the German sports sedan stigma as well as the high failure rate for the DCT. I’m excited they’re getting affordable again because I really want one!
Personally, I prefer my 4m Q7 CREC motor that have 2x the injectors that eliminates carbon build up and carbon cleaning, bolt on pulley instead of the pressed ones - no need for 'service mode' for the bumper and lots of space to work with. I just drop the ride height w/stage 1 = merging/passing is effortless & instantaneous
Great video :)
Thank you! :)
Would you trust a 2012-2018 A7 as a weekend car? It’s the same engine and trans as the B8 s4
A7 is super nice, as long as its the 3.0Tfsi engine you will be golden.
I wish they sold s4 avants ir s4 allroads of this generation in the US. 😢
Then they would truly be the perfect daily!
Nice video
Well done review🫡
i’m thinking about getting a b8.5 s4 i just hope it will be good for me
I hope it’s good for you too!
If ur stage 1, good maintenance, should last you a long time
b8.5 s4 is the best!
I tried tackling water pump thermostat job at home got stuck at the belt tensioner for the water pump after front end was off and supercharger lifted off
Damn, that sucks! Did you end up being able to finish the job?
What audi do you recommend me for long term reliability from the new one and which engines should I go?
Hello! Sorry for the late response. I would say any Audi with the 3rd Gen 2.0L (EA888) would be a solid buy. Especially when the 2.0L is paired with a ZF 8-speed. The 7-speed DCT (in the GTI and R) is a solid trans with respect to reliability too, but I’d put my money on the ZF when it comes to longevity. Basically, you’ll want to look at 2016/2017 and newer to get the most dependable powertrain. The newer gen-4 evo 2.0L should be a safe bet as well, but given it’s only been around for 2 years, we just don’t yet have enough data to say one way or another. I’d also say any 5-cylinder Audi or one with the 3.0L supercharged V6 like in the B8/B8.5 S4, the C6/C7 A6, and the first gen (8R) SQ5…though they’re harder to find, you can also get a regular Q5 with a detuned version of the 3.0 supercharged engine. As far as new though, I’d recommend a B9 A4 before the end production after this year!
What cars would you consider under 35k? I’ve been looking at 2016+ Camaros and the q50 red sport
Probably a 3-5 year old Camaro SS or Mustang GT, a C6 Corvette, C5 Z06, a new GR86/BRZ, ND Miata, 987 Boxster (I think a 987 Cayman too), Jetta GLI, WRX, 370Z etc. Depends on what you’re going for i.e performance, comfort, luxury, manual or auto. I’d say a 16+ Camaro is a fantastic performer and is a decent cruiser too (I’ve only driven a 17’ SS). The Q50 red sport is very fast, I think it looks good, and it’s got a nice interior despite being slightly old feeling. They are better than people say, but they aren’t great performance cars…they fall behind the competition in that sense.
M340i
Considering picking one of these up to replace my n55 335i that I just smacked a deer in. How do they compare maintenance wise? That's my biggest concern
The N55 is a pretty notoriously unreliable engine while the 3.0 supercharged has proven to be a durable engine long-term. I’d say the B8 S4 won’t be as lively or playful in corners, but it’ll be a cheaper ownership experience. It’s hard to be a 3-series for daily driving fun, but I think the combo of the S4’s sound and relative reliability make up for the less capable chassis.
I have 35k and want a fun and fast car but have no idea what to get, I was thinking about getting an Audi s4 but I don’t think I will be getting one
go find a f80 bmw
35k ....
Find a used one from auction.
I picked one up for 5.5k
why you have engine check light on?
I believe it was for an injector, though I don’t specifically remember the code we pulled. Given how easy removing the supercharger is, it’s not horrible labor-wise to replace anything underneath it from injectors to intake plenum gaskets etc. A year or so earlier the CEL was triggered by a bad motor mount believe it or not!
Hey I been thinking to sell my 07 Tundra Truck, to get a S4 o S5 to enjoy the drive. Do you think can be a good idea to sell a reliable truck to get a unreliable car, why unreliable ? coz always is same problem (timing)
Any idea/opinion thanks
Well the B8/B8.5 S4 has some issues, but it’s generally pretty reliable. The S5 got the same 3.0-liter supercharged V6 for the 2013 model year, so those will be similarly reliable to the S4 assuming you get the stick. It’s the B7 S4 and B8 S5 (2008-2012) that have the 4.2-liter V8 that are known for timing chain problems…more so the B7 S4. Ultimately, it depends on what you want to spend on maintenance. Regardless of which engine you have on your Tundra, the S4/S5 will be more to maintain. That said, you’ll be saving on gas and consumables should be cheaper.
If I had the money, I’d 100% buy an S4/S5 from 2013 and up, but I can really only afford my Honda at the moment. I’d say go for it as long as you’re comfortable with what you’re getting into!
@@aveautomotive2441
Yes is a little hard to choose
But I definitely would like to have a S4/5 I know they’re prices are not cheap
Yes I would like to get a manual transmission
& about my Tundra is v8 5.7
If I make a desission, I have to sell my truck first, is I little hard to choose what to do, coz truck’s always are for multiuse.
But thanks for ur tips & opinions
whats the exhaust called holy sh sounds nice
It’s an AWE Touring exhaust!
i thought the b8.5, (2013+) mechatronic units were fixed from what everyone tells me
Should I?
If you’re comfortable with the cost of parts and maintenance, hell yeah! They are reliable, but still expensive. Fantastic fun to drive and a wonderful daily even if you’re 6’4
Would you recommend an Audi a4 1.8tsfi 2013 at 58k kms?
Absolutely! The 1.8 is a solid little engine, assuming all the necessary maintenance has been done. They are sensitive to late oil changes and improper oil and some people recommend upgrading the water pump with the plastic impeller to an aftermarket metal unit, but given it’s a 10 year old car, I’d imagine that has been done at some point. I’d say depending on the known history of the vehicle and the price it can absolutely be a solid daily!
I’m thinking of getting a used Audi s5 2013 for college, which are going for around 20-25k dollars with 60k-80k miles. Do you think it is a good choice?
The 2013 has the 3.0 supercharged V6, so it’s an excellent engine. That said, if it’s for college, we’d be curious to know your budget for maintenance and how many miles a year you think you’ll be driving. If you can find one with a manual it’s a great choice if you’re driving 10k-15k miles a year.
I just bought a 2013 Audi S5 with 104k miles listed for 19k bargained down to 17k cause had to get the head gasket vent valve replaced, 100% don’t regret it. I’ve driven it around 2k miles and it is fucking amazing, get a cold air intake and x pipes for under 1000$ and it’ll sound 25% better too
@@aripangelinan About 6 months ago picked up a 2009 Audi A6 3.0T and besides a few electrical issues and door locks, the motor has held up very well, put about 5k miles on it, still runs very smooth and nice for its age.
Hey, I found an 2013 s4 96k miles for 17.5k do you think it will give me any mechanical problems? It would be my first car
Good luck getting insured if it’s ur first car
I just bought a 2013 Audi S5 with a 104k miles, here’s some things to look for- DSG serviced every 40k miles, any coolant leaks, mine had a leak it was listed for 19k I bargained the guy down to 17k. Get an inspection on it, only 100$ to get it professionally inspected.
Where do you go to ask for a inspection? I found a non audi dealer selling a s4. Do i just call a nearby audi?@@aripangelinan
hope you answer this, should i get a q50 redsport/sport or a audi s4? both 2015 and up.
Hello! I’d say it depends on the S4 and your budget. The B9 S4 (2017 and up) has the turbocharged 3.0-liter engine and the ZF 8-speed. The 3.0 doesn’t seem to problematic thus far, though I’d be more comfortable betting on a manual B8 or B8.5 (2010-2016) and it’s 3.0-liter supercharged engine. The Q50 Red Sport won’t have the same build quality as either S4 and the transmissions are questionable when it comes to longevity. The VR30DDTT is a pretty solid engine though. The Q50 might be slightly cheaper to maintain than the S4, but that’s the major benefit (that and it’s more powerful). Hope that helps!
S4 from 2010 to 2012 are unreliable at all !! Many issues with transmission
Agreed mostly-we stated that in the video-though it’s more than just transmission issues (plus the transmission issues were exclusive to the DCT. Get a manual and life is good!). Depending on service records a B8 is still a very good buy given they can be had for a bargain compared to the B8.5.
I’m 17 do you think it’s a good idea to buy for a first car?
In some ways, yes. It’s new enough that it’s quite safe, it’s AWD, the manual is easy to operate, it’s comfortable and quiet, and (with stock power and AWD) isn’t so fast or unruly that you’ll wrap it around a tree like a mustang lol. That said, they are expensive to maintain despite being quite reliable. Tires are like $1k and other routine maintenance items like brakes are a good chunk more expensive than the equivalent Honda Accord/Toyota Camry. If you can afford it comfortably, I think it’s a great first car-just be careful and stay up on the repairs/maintenance.
And genuinely be careful with speed. Allegedly, I accidentally found myself cruising at 94 mph on the highway because it handles high speed so confidently. Pop the cruise control on to avoid tickets 😂
Not a beginner car.... no offence.
I'm saying this based on experience
@@caseycappoen251 in what way? I purchased an a6 3.0t only downside I’m experiencing is the repairs other than that I wanted to make the car 450hp it’s 300stock
Too much power for most new drivers to handle responsibly. It only takes 6 seconds to get in way over your head.
What up with the check engine light on?
I forget what the code was for, but it didn’t affect drivability. I’ll ask him and get back if you’re curious! He was selling it to the dealer he bought his Golf R from and they gave him an offer knowing it was on and what it was for. Amazingly, it was only the 3rd time he’d ever had it come on during his ownership.