A tip when removing the poly fuses, a little bit of fresh solder added to those joints will help heat move into the joint, as well as mix with the (very likely) lead free solder in there and lower the melt temperature.
Say I wanna use the ramps only to pilot stepper motors for a robot and not for the heating bed. Do I need to replace the big fuse rated 16V ? Or is this fuse only for the heating bed circuit ?
*For disclosure: I am a noob who is just trying to get into 3D printing.* I fell in love with the Voron design, but I am also considering other options. Somehow the idea of building a 3d printer excites me more than 3D printing itself :D. So right now I am just learning about all the aspects of 3d printers in general. I like the advantages of 24v systems over the 12v ones so my question is: Isn't a dual MKS board + Pi a viable option for a 24v version? Afaik MKS supports 24v, the price seems roughly the same as dual ramps + arduino + 24v mod + Pi. Is there any restriction/reason it is not recommended?
Klipper works with the MKS boards, but my question would be if the price is the same why use a board that does not have any of the supporting documentation and preconfigured firmware you have for the RAMPS, what the advantage? I can't say why it's not recommended by the Voron Dev team but expect it comes down the RAMPS being so ubiquitous, and any extra work on making documentation and firmware is going to be focused on a more high-end and featured controllers like the Duet (after all the Voron is not a 'Bang for the buck' printer and more a no compromise). I'm building a 24V Voron at the moment, and have gone with the tried and tested RAMPS with the 24V upgrades featured in this video.
@npgoalkeeper _ That's one of the joys of Klipper, even 8bit micro-controller can operate at over175K steps per second due to the Raspberry Pi. My point is more a case that someone like the OP may have a far easier time of things going with the fully supported hardware over chacing very diminishing returns considering the work involved in configuring the firmware themselves?
@@CanuckCreator its ok the bl touch pull is own current from the usb port from the pc im testing it right now it goes very well on 24 volt :) its not an mks sgen l but it work :)
God I hate ramps so much. but god ramps is so cheap xD I got an skr coming and I needed a temporary board since it takes a month so I'm going to use a ramps right now :s oh and PS I did a test on the noise reduction and found it to be VERY minimal. but for spreadcycle on tmc drivers it makes a bit of a difference.
Leave the diode on the board. dont cut it out. Instead remove the voltage mosfet on the adrino board then sodier a new mofit on the under side of it to the 5v ground and vin pins. this way you can power your adrino board through the ramps still
If you're running Klipper, the Rpi will power the ramps via USB. Or run the Arduino from whatever power supply you're powering the Rpi with. Or you can put in a buck converter to drop the 24v from the main power supply down to 5v to power the Arduino and Rpi. Lots of options. I'm using a ramps at 24v in a CNC I'm building and I just put a 24v to 5v step down converter in to power the Arduino. Since it's been a while I'm hoping you figured it out, just answering in case others have the same question.
Dude what components??? Those are regual car fuses, unless u have been living under a rock for the past century. Cause they have been around for atleast 40 years now
A tip when removing the poly fuses, a little bit of fresh solder added to those joints will help heat move into the joint, as well as mix with the (very likely) lead free solder in there and lower the melt temperature.
This is a good tip, also helpful if you cant seem to get the hole clear with the solder sucker, adding more solder sometimes does the trick
@@CanuckCreator does this work on ramps 1.6
Great content on your channel. Thanks so much for sharing!
what Ampers your fuse?
Does this work on ramps 1.6??
Say I wanna use the ramps only to pilot stepper motors for a robot and not for the heating bed. Do I need to replace the big fuse rated 16V ? Or is this fuse only for the heating bed circuit ?
The bigger fuse is for the bed circuit only
@@CanuckCreator Thanks !
would you need to replace your hotend with something specific for 24v or will your standard e3d hotend still work?
You just need a heater cartidge/fans that are 24, the hardware is the same
After converting to 24 volts, how will the standard LCD12864 screen work ? Where does the voltage come from to LCD?
will not affect the screen
*For disclosure: I am a noob who is just trying to get into 3D printing.* I fell in love with the Voron design, but I am also considering other options. Somehow the idea of building a 3d printer excites me more than 3D printing itself :D. So right now I am just learning about all the aspects of 3d printers in general. I like the advantages of 24v systems over the 12v ones so my question is: Isn't a dual MKS board + Pi a viable option for a 24v version? Afaik MKS supports 24v, the price seems roughly the same as dual ramps + arduino + 24v mod + Pi. Is there any restriction/reason it is not recommended?
Klipper works with the MKS boards, but my question would be if the price is the same why use a board that does not have any of the supporting documentation and preconfigured firmware you have for the RAMPS, what the advantage? I can't say why it's not recommended by the Voron Dev team but expect it comes down the RAMPS being so ubiquitous, and any extra work on making documentation and firmware is going to be focused on a more high-end and featured controllers like the Duet (after all the Voron is not a 'Bang for the buck' printer and more a no compromise). I'm building a 24V Voron at the moment, and have gone with the tried and tested RAMPS with the 24V upgrades featured in this video.
@npgoalkeeper _ That's one of the joys of Klipper, even 8bit micro-controller can operate at over175K steps per second due to the Raspberry Pi. My point is more a case that someone like the OP may have a far easier time of things going with the fully supported hardware over chacing very diminishing returns considering the work involved in configuring the firmware themselves?
do the 3d touch gonna work with this mod?
While a voron doesnt use the bl touch type sensor. This mode should not affect any usability or functionality of the ramps
@@CanuckCreator its ok the bl touch pull is own current from the usb port from the pc im testing it right now it goes very well on 24 volt :) its not an mks sgen l but it work :)
God I hate ramps so much. but god ramps is so cheap xD
I got an skr coming and I needed a temporary board since it takes a month so I'm going to use a ramps right now :s
oh and PS I did a test on the noise reduction and found it to be VERY minimal. but for spreadcycle on tmc drivers it makes a bit of a difference.
What are the best ways to power Arduino now?
Leave the diode on the board. dont cut it out. Instead remove the voltage mosfet on the adrino board then sodier a new mofit on the under side of it to the 5v ground and vin pins. this way you can power your adrino board through the ramps still
If you're running Klipper, the Rpi will power the ramps via USB. Or run the Arduino from whatever power supply you're powering the Rpi with. Or you can put in a buck converter to drop the 24v from the main power supply down to 5v to power the Arduino and Rpi. Lots of options. I'm using a ramps at 24v in a CNC I'm building and I just put a 24v to 5v step down converter in to power the Arduino.
Since it's been a while I'm hoping you figured it out, just answering in case others have the same question.
Can you give me links of those component?
Dude what components??? Those are regual car fuses, unless u have been living under a rock for the past century. Cause they have been around for atleast 40 years now
somestimes x axis dosent work and goes short distance
what do you thing
when i change 12v its ok. if i change 24v same problem ??
This thing 32 bit?
no it is 8 bit