How to Remove & Replace a Toyota 4x4 Manual Locking Hub
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- How to remove and replace a Toyota Manual Locking hub. This video shows how I pull the manual locking hub off a Toyota 4x4 truck. The video shows my technique for dealing with the cone washers that can be quite stubborn sometimes. Toyota used the exact same hubs from 1979 - 1985 trucks ( Hilux ) and 4Runners with only minor changes from 1986 - present.
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Excellent video, very informative. And having repaired hubs before, also correct. I have no idea why 51 people have given it a thumbs down....
Have a 1992 Toyota truck with one of the manual locking hubs very hard to turn. So, this really helped take the mystery out of how to remove and either replace or add a bit of grease! I hope my 1992 is not too different!!!!! Thanks
It probably just needs cleaned and greased, but you should watch this video before reassembly: th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the cone washer tip! It worked great. The ones on my '88 truck probably have never been out and I didn't want to damage the hub housing. In the past on old Dodge trucks you can smack them with a ball peen hammer since they're steel and won't be damaged.
Cool video! Got a flat the other day on my 1994 Toyota Pickup...Took the 6 lugs off and she wouldn't budge. It seems the manual locking hub is in the way and needs to be removed. Thank god it didnt go flat on the freeway or something...lol.
Would you mind if I made a playlist of your Toyota Truck vids? I think they are exactly what every Yota Owner needs to watch.
You can always compile your own list of videos for a playlist in TH-cam (and i'm totally cool with you linking my videos into a playlist), but I do also have them grouped into a playlist already (along with some other truck and 4x4 related content I've made: th-cam.com/play/PLTxEXQ674ZOJlyEriqcd3xb6MZKdosVxY.html
I recently moved into a property with a huge shop so that I can do more filming. The goal is this summer to do more Toyota repair videos and front hub bearings is on the list.
This video is so freakin old and yet so usefull for me today😅 i was laughing so hard when I hit the pins carefully and the cone rings popped of. I appreciate your video and thank you very much for your effort! Greetings from Germany!
@bats28 You might check to see if you can just have the rotors surfaced. If you can, it means you won't have to take them off the hubs (you will still have to remove the locking hubs as pictured in the video), but you won't have to press the wheel studs out of the actual hub body. If you are replacing the rotors you'll need to press the studs out of the hub body as the studs pass through the rotor and are pressed through the hub body.
@nerdlinger2 You've got an IFS (Independent front suspension) truck and they use a different type of axle so you probably don't have the snap ring there. the truck in the video is a 1979-1985 style solid front axle with Birfield joints. As for the cone washers, soak the area in penetrating spray (PB Blaster is my fav.) and really lay into it with the brass drift and sledge. You may have to heat the area gently with a propane torch.
It goes, outer wheel bearing bearing, thrust washer (the big flat one with the single tooth, then a big nut, then the star washer, then the other nut. But you have to do the pre-load adjustments. Best to get a manual and go through it right or you will screw up your wheel bearings. Snapring goes on the end of the axle shaft right before you put on the locking hub dial.
@et0307982 The axle in this video is a 1979 - 1985 type axle. The later model locking hubs are similar, but not quite the same. You're not going to have the lockring on the Tacoma because it has CV shafts where the early solid axle trucks have Birfield joints. The same principles apply for removing the locking hub body on all the years though. Good luck.
Does it make the sound when 4wd is engaged also? Or just when in 2wd with the hubs locked? If it's only in 2wd with the hubs locked I would take a hard look at your front driveline. When you use 2wd with the hubs locked in you're putting spin in the driveshaft from the front axle instead of from the transfercase. This can cause some pretty strange sounds. Another thing might be wheel bearings, or carrier bearings in the differential. continued in next reply...
Thank you for a great demonstration on this Toyota hubs, very helpful too me. great job.
Be sure to watch this video on the hub dial reassembly I did also. It will also prove helpful if you're working on an AISIN hub: th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
@sleepybone321 If you have manual locking hubs that are unlocked and you switch to 4x4 in the cab all you are doing is spinning your front drive axles. The hubs need to be locked to transfer power from the spinning drive axles to the wheels. The hubs lock the axles to the wheels.
awsome video very helpuful although i needed to know how to tighten the bearings
Just got me a pair of oringal toyota ones for 40 a set just gota go pull them now
Awesome sauce thank you for this video
I will add this, as a mechanic i believe that this guy knows wtf he's talking about. I would trust him working on my 30year old yota land cruisaider, 4runner etc.. much props wheeliePete yota man! 4 documenting this for them diy'ers
Thanks for the compliments. I've gotten a lot better over the years at making these videos. I eventually did make the video on how to properly reassemble the pawl and clutch assembly of the hub dial. If you haven't seen it, you might want to check it out. (I think it's probably the best video I've made to date...) th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html I also lumped my toyota videos together into a playlist that can be accessed from my channel's home page.
@jason127x99 Don't need the 54mm socket to remove the locking hub. You'll need the 54mm socket to remove the actual hub itself from the spindle. (The two 54mm nuts are actually holding the wheel hub (wheel hub has the wheel studs pressed into it) and wheel bearings on the spindle.) I'll be doing a video in the near future on how to remove the hub as a unit from the axle so you can remove the Birfield and inner axle shaft without losing wheel bearing adjustment.
@WheeliePete Oh great! Thanks so much for the reply. Watched your new video; was really really good. It's amazing how a little mod like that can/will be so useful; along with the brake line mod. Can't believe Toyota's engineers never thought of that (like you said) hah. I hope you continue to make video's like these; there so useful and informative.
Thank you!!!!! Ain't no school like the old school!
This is the best, easiest to follow how to video I've ever seen! So happy I stumbled on this. Thank you!
Hi, wheeliepete. I would like ur opinion and/or advise on an incident my family and I experienced yesterday on our 1994 land cruiser with under 130k miles- we were on the freeway and thought my husband hit some type of road debris. I saw something fly off near the truck. When we got to our destination, he can feel something off about our truck. We examined the tires and under the car and did not notice anything out of the ordinary then my husband noticed the right front tire was missing 5 (out of 6) of its lug nuts and with further examination saw that 4 of the wheel studs were broken off. We could have had a serious accident, needless to say. So four or five hours later we finally found a place that made the repairs and got home safely. Is it normal for what happened, happen? For four out of 6 wheel studs to break the way it did? Is it wear and tear or are we looking at vandalism? We’ve experienced a few vandalism to our cars since we moved to this sketchy neighborhood and can’t wait to get out. Thanks, wheeliepete!! Enjoyed ur video and learned a lot from it!!
A couple things come to mind #1 someone (probably a tire shop) in the past may have overtorqued those studs and stretched past their limit which makes them weak and ripe for breaking off on the next big impact. (Could have also not been properly torqued and just came loose which would allow the wheel to work back and forth on the studs and shear them off...)#2 Which wheel was it? If it's one the driver's side wheels, there's a physics principle called "Mechanical Precession" that basically states when you have a nut that is regular "righty tighty" threads (clockwise to tighten) and you constantly spin the whole assembly counter-clockwise (like the wheels on the driver's side are doing), the nut will loosen over time. (wikipedia article on mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical) If the nuts were all coming loose on that side from mechanical precession, then once they get loose enough to allow the wheel to move a little bit all the time, it will wear on the studs and can shear them off. (I've seen this happen A LOT with 4x4's that don't don't check their lug nuts after aggressive wheeling trips.) Sooooo....if it was because someone overtorqued those studs, you will want to check all 4 wheels because the same gorilla probably did all 4 like that. If it was just the driver's side coming loose, then I would get in the habit of checking torque every so often (which isn't a bad idea just in general.) There's another thing too and that might be someone put the wrong type of lug nuts on for the rim. Different types of rims require different styles of lug nuts (where the lug nut interfaces with the rim.) A tire shop could tell you pretty quick if the lug nuts are correct for the rims. The wrong lug nut to rim style might also be prone to coming loose. So long answer, but, no, it's not normal for a properly mounted and torqued wheel to lose 5/6 lugs and shear off 4 studs. I'm really glad you didn't jettison the wheel at speed. I think you got really lucky!
@hiredhandful You *should* be able to remove the hub with the dial in the locked position. the only thing will be your locking cog will be extended. I'll be doing a video soon of how the inner guts work on these style of hubs and how to rebuild them. If your dial is frozen it's either because there too much nasty old solidified grease or dirt, or because you ball-detent has jammed in the dial cap, or there's something seriously wrong inside the mechanism.
Great video 👍 👍👍 thanks for the info
Heating the locking hub body down by the cone washer may expand the hub body enough to help release the pressure on the cone washer. Another try might be to see if you can actually get a tapered punch into the split on the cone washer to try and tap it around and loosen it up. But before everything, soak the cone washer in penetrating spray and really put some force into the brass drift. I've had some NASTY ones and they've all eventually come out with the drift and sledge.
Hmmmmm... that's a tough one. Maybe a wheel bearing starting to go south on you? I had one once that went bad and it would make a hellacious sound going around a corner when the outer wheel bearing would get loaded. Check for wheel well liner coming off, or something else rubbing a tire. Tough to diagnose sounds over the web...lol... But I have helped a few folks pin down some probs before...
No problem, I hear what you're saying. I'm working on another Toyota tips & tricks video right now. Will hopefully have it up by the end of this weekend.
As long as the noise only happens when you have the hubs locked it is most likely being caused by something in the front axle as engaging the hubs locks in the birfields and inner shafts and starts spinning the differential. There really isn't much that can go wrong in the hubs themselves. You could also have a bent axle housing and one of the birfield bells is rubbing the inside of the knuckle ball. There's lots of choices here, but I would try pulling the front driveline...continued...
Yea I know with mine bad spider gears really messed shit up
I just removed mine.... But the hub was locked. It's now stuck in the lock position. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Yep, you probably need to go watch this other video I did on that exact subject: th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
I've seen aisins blow up, but it's usually a failure of the inner gear exploding under EXTREME use (huge tires, lockers, full throttle assault in the rocks kind of wheeling, etc.) It's my opinion that the WARN is not a better hub than the Aisin. The main reason people put a Warn on is because they didn't reassemble the Aisin properly and it engaged, but then didn't disengage, they thought it was broke, and replaced it. I'll do a video in the near future about proper reassembly of the Aisin.
Hopefully somoene will chime in here on the subject. I don't have that much knowledge with the early 22RE trucks. I think there is a cold start injector of sorts in there somewhere, If I remember right there is a banjo fitting on the side of the intake plenum that injects gas directly into the intake for cold start? I jsut can't remember at this point. Fuel/Air/Spark...it's one of those three...
I'm sorry, I don't have any of the auto-hubs laying around. I usually yank them off switch to locking hubs on 2nd and 3rd gen trucks. What year are you dealing with? I may be able to e-mail you a page from a factory service manual on reassembly and / or an exploded diagram if I have the right year...
Sorry, I don't have a lot of experience with the Tacoma front ends. Generally though, when a wheel bearing is going bad, you will hear a lot of noise and/or vibration when you load the bad bearing going around a corner. If the left outer wheel bearing was going bad you would hear it in a right hand turn (body roll loading the left outer wheel bearing), etc... Slop in the wheel when you jack it up and rock it back and forth is another indicator also...
Well done.
Thank you sooo much!
very useful!!
What happened to the 12mm nut on the end of the axle? When you took the hub dial off
in the first minute there should have been a 12mm nut in the center of the axle.
Great video. Clear helpful instruction. Thanks so much.
Hi i disasembeld the same set up you have here in your video.Can you show me the order in wich i put the nuts back onto the axle part of it.including the spindle washer.i cant remebe rif i put it back on then the snap ring.. MY truck is a 1986 toyota 4x4 sr5turbo truck IFS.i INSTALLED A 3 INCH SUSPENSION LIFT AND I CANT remember how the nuts go back on in wich order.PLEASE HELP ANYONE.preferably you.Thanks in advance to anyone that sees this and replys..................Help..........
Thanks!
Is this a carbureated truck? If so, I would look at the choke.
Hello WheeliePate, thanx very mauch to try to teach us about your experience on hub locks. I have Land Cruiser prado 70 series that uses electrick hub locks, iam not happy with them, i would like to convert them to manual locks. what do have to do? I just buy a manual kit and essemble it or is necessary to altere something on hub host at may car? thanx i iam sorry for may break english, iam from Mozambique and i peak portuguese.
The hub seems to be springin gout of its original place.the washer in behind the spring ( the one that looks like it has teeth in certain spots) is warn significantly in certain teeth spots.Should i be ok buying aused one from ajunk yard?Will any hub from 86-95 manual work on my truck? At a loss here.I am purchasing another tie rod end,front shocks.two rear break lines to extend front ones.Then i need to get a hard line 4 drives Side.i broke it off rite at the Banjo nutt.
Ok i watched it thats a definit easy way to do it.Preload on my 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual locking hubs, was as follows
1st- Tighten Nut to 41 lbs torque.spin it to right around 5 times, Spin it Left 5 times.
2nd-Tighten Nut To 41lbs again.Spin it right 5 times.Spin it left five times.
3rd- Losen nut,Spin it 5 times left.Spin it 5 times right.
4th- Tighten nut to 21lbs torque and your done.
I did have a prob with hub dial not turning.Have to remove it n see whats up.....
ok ty will take a look for that banjo fitting.Question for you.If u know.can i take a rear break line and hook it to front break line on my truck?I repacked my bearings today got passenger side all hooked up.All but the break line etc.to short with the 3 inch lift.would rip line if i installed it to lift.I bought new shocks front and rear jusr before i decided to install lift kit.Front ones are 3 inches short from factory set hole for top of shock.Where to get spacer?extention? HELP...
I am picking up my lock washers tommorow at dealership.I purchased a torque wrench for the bearing preload portion of the rebuild.i will be torquing all bolts to spec on my truck.I was thinking of just making 3 inch spacers for the u style hardware bracket that holds the sway bar in its stock place.
Truck wont start unless i spray starting fluid in airintake.once it starts it runs mint.Where would you tackle this problem at first? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dave.
hey Pete question for you.I dont have the 3 inch sway bar drop brackets for my ifs lift kit.Can just use 3 inch polyethelene blocks n drill holes and add 3 inch longer screws to hold stock brackets in place?I see from pics they look like there angeld.off set by a inch or less.Any idea. 1986 sr5 turbo 4x4 manual hubs..?? TY for any info.Got my lock rings and picking up my lock washers from toyota dealership tommorow.So I CAN REASSEMBLE WHEELS ETC ETC.
I have a 98 with stock locking hubs, i just bought it a few months ago, i can tell that the passenger side locking hub was replaced at one time, about a month ago i had to use my 4wd on sand then when i was done i noticed my passenger side hub would not disenguage like you said at 2:00 in this video. since then ive been to busy to work on it till now. so i have been drivving with both locked in(hopfully thats ok). I am actualy and ase certified tech. but have little experience with 4wd. HELP
Excellent job, could not ask for a better video!
Hey great video. I have a 87' 4runnerthat I need to change my rotors on and it looks like the hubs will need to come off. Is this true? Or am I looking at it wrong. If you have a vid on doing ball joints too that'll be awesome.
Put the dial in the "Free" position and remove the dial. The locking gear should come out with the cap. If the gear and spring stay in the hub body you've found your problem in that someon assembled the cap/spring/gear wrong. If that's the problem, send me a private message with your e-mail and I can send you a marked up photo that I took that shows how it needs to be assembled to work. I need to make a video on this as it's the #1 reason (bad reassembly) people think their hub is broken.
i put manual hub lockers on my 99 ford ranger and i was wondering if i leave them unlocked and turn the switch in the cab to 4hi will i have 4wheel drive or do i have to lock the hubs to get 4 wheel drive?
The problem with prior owners beating on the body of the locking hub is that the flange where the locking hub body attaches to the wheel hub gets VERY VERY thin right where the cone washers are. So when people beat on that area they can deform the very thin wall of the locking hub body where the cone washer's tapered hole is drilled. Once that area is deformed it can lock up the cone washer and keep it from releasing. This is why you should never, ever, pound on the hub body...
Yeah, the "tapered punch" method described in the book has always been a bit of a puzzler, you're going to ding something up every time...
curious, when you pulled the locking hub cover off, why didnt the axle have the bolt and washer? been curious about people who use the bolt/washer vs just clip vs both. seems to be a variety to the consensus
The bolt and large washer are found under the hub cover of the Toyota auto-locking hubs. Both my 1985 and 1988 (1985 being the last year of the solid front axles in the U.S.) factory service manuals show it on the end of the axle shaft under the hub cover of the exploded diagram for the Toyota AUTO-locking hub assembly. They were not found on the MANUAL-locking hub assembly diagrams from 1979-1995 in the U.S. In 1986 and after I see them showing up on BOTH the manual-locking and auto-locking hub diagrams in the factory service manuals. In the old solid axle manuals, the threaded hole in the end of the axle is also used for, if you need it, installing a bolt that you can use pull on and to hold the axle stub still while you install that outer snap ring. I'll post a couple snapshots of the service manual assemblies in my community feed if you're interested in seeing them.
@@WheeliePete interesting. I have an ADD setup. Recently did a cv and noticed I didn't have a snap ring, just the bolt and washer. I'm about to slap on some warn manual hubs, but not I'm wondering about the snap ring. Can I just use the bolt and washer in lieu of the snap ring, or will it not fit with the manual hub?
I just updated my last comment Ray. I started looking at the factory service manuals and it looks like they put the bolt and washer on the manual hubs too and starting in 1986. If you're putting on WARN hubs you'll need a diagram of how warn wants the guts installed. I'm not sure how they go on. We always used to yank the WARN hubs and put Toyota AISIN ones back on if we ever got a truck in that had them, the AISIN is superior design in my opinion. Most people have problems with the AISIN hubs because they were taken apart and installed incorrectly. See this video I did addressing that super-common issue that makes people think the hubs are broken, when in reality they are just assembled incorrectly by the last person who took it apart. th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
@@WheeliePete awesome, thanks for the useful info. I originally was going for aisins, but I saw a lot that was up for sale on offerup from a guy who converted to front solid axle. So I have his whole front drop out including the warn hubs and good cv's. 100 bucks =)
Good deal! I just posted a bunch of the schematics from the different years auto/manual hubs over on my channel's community tab. I also noticed that there appears to be a difference in the bolt/washer combo between the auto and manual hubs. The auto hubs appear to have a cupped washer that the bolt sits down in and the manual hubs look like they had a flat washer.
I Found out my snap ring is to far stretched,And the washer that looks like a saw blade (one with the little tab that slides into the groove in the shaft of the axle) the tab on mine is allmost all the way worn out.
Any way you have the snap rings and lock washers there in your shop?If you do,Contact me via threw here?I dont know if there is any pm messenger set up here?
Thanks in advance.
Fuel pump?I wouldnt think it was the fuel pump .because once the truck is running it runs fine.Good pedal etc etc.
@WheeliePete I should add, that pressing studs out of the hub body is a total pain in the ass if you don't have a hyraulic press. It can be done with a hammer/drift/socket setup, but you better get a friend to help you.
just got a '94 4x4 and when i put it in 4x4 and make a hard turn (turn r or l all the way) i hear a good knocking sound - could that have something to do with the bearings there or maybe better the bushings?
If it's an extreme turn to either side I would take a hard look at the steering components. I bet there's some tie-rod end joints that are toast especially on a '94, if they are original, they've been in there a LONG time. Could also be the CV joints. Doe the truck have manual locking hubs? Lots of problems can stem from someone installing the manual locking hub dial assembly wrong. Easy to check and fix (as long as all the parts are there) Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
Where is your 54mm socket???? Been there and done that! My bad I thought you were taking the bearings out.
Any Chilton's or Haynes manual will have the directions, but I only use Factory Service Manuals (FSM's) as they have the ultimate authority and true step-by-step procedures. It's totally worth it to buy a set for your vehicle or go find a download at e-bay.
I don't have any familiarity with the Land Cruiser series. Master and slave cylinders are pretty inexpensive here so I just replace them as they fail. I've never even tried to get the parts to do a rebuild. Should basically involve pulling the guts, honing the cylinder bore, and then new seals. But where I am master or slave are less than $30 USD new so I just get a new one. I even carry a new spare of each in the parts box when wheeling...
great video,its great to see/know how to do it the easy way,thx mk
What size is your brass drift punch ?
Do you need to put a hub body gasket on ?
Hey I got a question I have 1981 Toyota pickup 4wd and am doing a rotor change, I’m stuck on the rotor off or hub? It has 6 studs how do I get those off?? They’re stuck on good? Just bang them out with some brass
Uggh... I've also got an '81 front end and they had pressed on rotors (I think it was that way for 79-83 on U.S. 4x4 trucks?) The lug studs are pressed through the rotor and hub holding the rotor to the hub. You have to press the lugs out to remove the rotor from the hub. Then you have to press them back together. If you can, find someone with a H-frame press. It will make your life a lot easier. In later versions the rotors were bolted on to the hub which was a lot easier to deal with.
i been told some off roader have seen blow Warns but never an AISIN ( ASCO)...
Hey Pete!! best vids ever! do you know if there should be a bolt and washer in the end of the transaxle behind these hubs? when I opened my (milemarker) hubs it was like that...
I've seen that too over the years, mainly on hubs I took apart after auto locking hubs were introduced. It's not necessary under the manual locking hub dial. The threaded end of the birfield stub shaft allows you to have a bolt in there to help with pulling that joint and axle shaft out of the knuckle and differential.
Do I have to take the first set of bolts off first? Or can I just skip them and take the whole hub off without separating the 2? I just want to paint my hub.
You really should remove the hub dial so you can get a socket on an extension to get down to the nuts on the hub studs. Just put the locking hub dial to free and remove the 6 small bolts and it will pull right out.
You need to take off the hub dial to access the snap ring
You can get the parts from a Toyota dealer, or order them online through marlincrawler(dot)com. They are not expensive. I usually just buy them as I need them from my Toyota dealer locally.
did mine a month back. Them cone washers had me screaming with rage; rusted on tight!
good Video, I wish I'd found it a month ago :D
The haynes manual is like a grade-school reader. The factory service manual (FSM) is like a graduate level textboox. Trust me, if you can get your hands on a factory service manual you will never pick up a haynes manual again. The FSM breaks down every single part of a repair in detail with either a picture or an illustration for each step. They are awesome to work from.
No its fuel injected.I was thinking maybe a bad injector? 22re efi .
Thanks for the info. Nice video. I changed a flange today because it was cracked as a result of me hammering it on the side to get the cone washers out. I used your method this time. A couple of the cones were stubborn but they came out eventually, and no cracked flange this time!
Good deal! I'm glad you got them out. On really stuck ones I also like to soak them in penetrating spray like PB Blaster, and you can heat up the studs with a propane torch if they are REALLY stuck. But generally the brass drift gets the job done nicely.
Thanks Pete. I'll keep that in mind. I have a small propane torch if needed. My hubs are not original Toyota, my cruiser didn't have them factory fitted.. it's an all wheel drive model converted to part time 4wd. George, Australia.
@hannahjo8 Because of the way IFS truck axles shafts work, they don't need a lockring. Just skip that step and proceed.
If there were supposed to be drop brackets, any spacer should work. On the solid axle trucks the sway bar extensions are in the form of longer bolts and sleeve spacers. I haven't messed with the Independent Front Suspension trucks much though...
does anybody know where I might get a spring from for my 83
Thanks, this is one of the most useful videos I've seen for working with the old solid front axle Toyotas. Do you by any chance have a video on how to replace the front wheel bearings? If not, any tips? Thanks!
+Rudi von Staden I don't have a video for front wheel bearings currently (but it is on my list of things to do!) The biggest tip for the front wheel bearings is to get the socket for install and removal of the two spindle nuts. They are 54mm so it's a big socket. Best bet is to get one of these from trail-gear. : www.trail-gear.com/TG/54mm_Axle_Socket/i_0_0_3482/_140157-1-KIT.aspx#.VkC1zGeFOUk
WheeliePete Thanks for the tip! I hear from other Hilux owners in South Africa that the standard water heater element spanner fits perfectly, and they are available from most hardware stores (not sure if it's an international standard). Only problem is they need to be modified if you need to torque them.
+Rudi von Staden Hmmm... maybe they have a different element standard than the U.S. because the socket I use for water heater elements is 1.5" which is only 38.1mm The spindle nuts on the early solid axles take a 54mm socket.
+Rudi von Staden yorniel
So, if a previous owner hammered to get those cones out, is it ok??? Or wjat could go wrong
Hammering on the outside of the locking hub body deforms the very thin area that the cones sit in. There's nothing you can do about it really, but what you'll want to watch for is making sure when you do put it all back together you check the torque on those nuts after a bit of wheeling. If the holes are deformed enough you might not get the right fit of the cone washer and then your locking hub could work loose. Checking those nuts for torque after the first couple trips should ensure they've gone all the way down to where they should be. The other thing I would highly recommend is replacing the locking hub body studs with new, stronger ones. Places like Marlin Crawler, Front Range Offroad, and Trail Gear all sell them. At a minimum, check to make sure each of the existing studs is tight. When those work loose you start to see the locking hubs shear the studs clean off. Link to Front Range's websites with the hub studs upgrade (I'm not affiliated with them, they just have awesome products): frontrangeoffroadfab.com/arp-hub-studs-upgrade/
...continued...pull the front driveline and then run with the hubs locked and see if there's noise. In not, then you've isolated it. Removing the DL is easy so that's why I'd go there first. If that doesn't do it, unlock one hub, then the other. You're just using process of elimination before you have to dig into the guts of the front end. I'll be doing a video on the locking hub rebuild process soon....
By far the most informative video for this!!!!! Thanks very much. Do you have a video for a Toyota front wheel bearing change?!? Need to know the ft lbs for loading the bearings!!
I actually did a video on the brake line mod. You can use a rear line to make a double long front line. Go into my channel and look for the playlist that has the 4x4 mods tips and tricks. it's titled: "How to make extended length toyota 4x4 brake lines"
Awesome! So well done!
@XlElementXl Doesn't matter. You can lock in the hubs and run around in 2wd on the gravel roads shifting into 4x4 only when you need it. The only problem is that if your front driveshaft is unbalanced or sloppy, you will hear a lot of noise from it as the drive shaft will be getting spun by the axle instead of being powered by the transfercase. It's not really that big a deal though. I'm uploading a new video right now on how to bombproof your steering stops. Check it out!
There's two springs in the hub dial assembly (three if you count the detent ball spring) There's a big spring That pushes the clutch into the hub when you turn the dial. There's a spring between the pawl and clutch that is used to bind the pawl to the clutch, which allows the dial to retract the clutch when set to "free". I would bet that somene screwed up the install of the spring between the pawl and the clutch. Send me a message through my channel and I can get you pics of how it goes.
There's a blind hole in the end of the burfield stub shaft that's threaded 8x1.25 (IIRC). You can stick a bolt in it and grab that with pliers to help pull the axle out a little bit when you go to install the snapring on the end of the axle. That hole can also be used to attach a puller to the end of the birfield stub shaft if you hare having a hard time pulling it out of the knuckle ball. There shouldn't be a bolt in in when you are driving around.
Pete
I’ve got a Daihatsu fortrak ( Rocky ) always wondered what that threaded hole was used for ,
Many thanks.
Yea them snaprings can be a bitch
its crazy that all that the ring gear in the hub can handle all the torque from the axles.
Well, right up until it doesn't... Which is why they make aftermarket chromoly ones like this: www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-4340-chromoly-hub-gears-inner-and-outer-301506-1-kit-303107-1-kit-303108-1-kit-301507-1-kit.html
Hey Pete would the ifs 2002 hilux be the same process?
If it's got AISIN manual locking hubs, yes. Make sure and watch my other video too on the not-so-intuitive process to re-assemble the hub dial components. You'll thank me later: th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html
wanted to know how to replace front hubs bearing for Toyota Prado 1997 model.
The dial itself has a shaped o-ring that you should put a light coat of grease on. Also a nice light coat of grease on all the friction parts inside the hub. Anywhere you get metal to metal contact should have some grease.
@realfast01 Lotsa nasty grease and gunk. And, over time, it's not good to be constantly saturated with petroleum based greases. It does build up in the bloodstream over time = not good...
Hi Pete,
Do Aisin still make genuine, brand new free wheeling hubs, do you know?
Thanks
Yep. I've seen lots of places selling them online. Here's MarlinCrawler's listing: www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-hardware/hardware-front-hilux/free-wheel-hub-assembly
Thanks Pete.
@WheeliePete Thanks for getting back to me so quick. I have to replace them because there is not much to resurface them. I have the new ones just needed further info for the hubs because I 'm a novice when it comes to those. This will take some of the pressure off after watching this. Wish there was a easier way to get them off. I think I may just make it a weekend project to do the rotors and ball joints since it'll all be jacked up and took apart. Thanks again
I have a 99 tacoma 4x4 with manual lock hubs and my drivers side when its unlocked it makes a grinding noise almost like a bad bearing but when i lock it it goes away any idea what it could be
Hmmmmm... you'll have to dig into it. You might try watching this other video I made. th-cam.com/video/W78RkF1mUOE/w-d-xo.html It will at least help you pull the outer hub dial cover and verify that those components are assembled correctly. A lot of problems with the Aisin hubs used on Toyota's come from people not assembling the hub dial components correctly.
LOL he forgot to put the center nut on before you put the locking hub on LOL
There is no "center nut" that you have to remove to pull the AISIN manual locking hub off or put it back on the solid axle U.S. trucks from 1979 to 1985. The assembly goes outer wheel bearing, then the thrust washer, then a 54mm bearing preload nut, then a star washer, then the 54mm lock nut. They're all there in the video, and all of that happens on the end of the spindle. The manual locking hub body isn't held to the hub by anything other than the six studs and the snapring on the end of the Birfield shaft.. The threaded hole in the end of the Birfield's shaft you can see in the video is for assisting in pulling the birfield out if you need to use a puller.
You wouldn't happen to have any auto hubs you could make a vid on do you? My hub was replaced wrong so my 4x4 wont work
I will try and upload a video by monday night to show u where i am at with it.I didnt know anythign about pre loading anything.Do u have a link or a in detailed list on how to go about this?I cant waite to see what it looks like with the front lift installed.I appreciate you replying back so soon.what manual do you recomend i buy or get to do this pre load research on?Ty for any replys man,You The Man.
This is the best video how-to for the Tacoma hub removal. I was in dire need of direction as i had a failed cv shaft causing BOTH ball joints(upper n lower) to also fail. I dont see a lock ring either on my 96 4x4 Tacoma, and unfortuanlaly for me I am having to do this on a spinlde that is not secure. Ill admit to be inexperienced on 4x4 and i did tap the hub like u said not to do, but very littel. I will try your brush drift method and i will also post a lil video on my Channel-et0307982
I forgot to mention the rub is not constant. On my 15 min drive home it will happen 2-4 times 10-30 second bursts. And I havent had it happen on one of our recent 50 degree days just when its cold. I havent had it happen in 4wd but it will snow tomorrow here and I'll have plenty of time to test that out. thnx for the quick response!