Fabricating a Custom Stainless Steel Exhaust for my Cummins Swapped Project Truck [Part 20]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- I fabricate and TIG weld a custom stainless steel exhaust for my Cummins-swapped GMC C3500HD project truck.
Milwaukee Metal Cutting Saw: amzn.to/31Ej50q
My favorite multiprocess welding machine: amzn.to/38wX46R
Instagram: / waldowelds
Full build series playlist: • Cummins Swapping a GMC...
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![Attempting a First Drive, But is the Transmission Broken? [Cummins Swap Part 21]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QOrbBC7BA5w/mqdefault.jpg)
![Attempting a First Drive, But is the Transmission Broken? [Cummins Swap Part 21]](/img/tr.png)
![Building a "Vintage" Tow Truck Bed | #TTDmaxC10 [EP6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Er07GaGLzyc/mqdefault.jpg)
Why did the chicken cross the road?
Because she realized that she forgot to peck that Like button!
to get to the other side, stepped out of rank, got hit by a tank, he ain't a chicken no more
i realize Im quite off topic but does anybody know of a good website to watch newly released movies online ?
@Malachi Axl flixportal :P
@Robert Gerardo thanks, signed up and it seems to work :) I appreciate it!
@Malachi Axl Glad I could help xD
this channel is terribly underrated, it should have like 10x the subs for the content coming out, anyway good works as always Waldo
Haha thanks! Tell your friends! 🤠
It will get there. Steady, clear video and good audio paired with good content and creative fabrication. Nice work waldo
I agree!!! Well done and great video editing and variable content that can relate to any guy with a small diy garage!!
The gooseneck will bring it. It brought me
12/12/21 74.5k subscribers!
This channel shows that the "shade tree mechanic" isn't gone. If a person puts their mind to it, they can accomplish anything. Love these vids, keep them coming.
Thank you! 🤠
I agree with you on the exhaust. Especially when your towing. It can get annoying. I must be getting old. LOL
Exhaust hanger pliers are fantastic tools. As a mechanic in Mass, they are invaluable! especially for the hangers on my 6.4 powerstroke. Loving the channel, especially the dynahoe. you have me scouring CL for an old loader or backhoe
Love that turbo whistle!
Same! 🤠
Do atleast 4inch or 5, there is benefits, turbo spools faster and egt's don't get as hot
Gooseneck brought me. I actually have been binge watching this series. It was funny as you were happy at one thousand subs. When I watched up you had 74.5k (now 75k). I think the quality and work will pay off soon.
I think we all appreciate the content that goes into making these videos..Blessings from Dublin Ireland.
I love it when I come accros a gem channel like this
Glad to hear it! 🤠
@@WaldosWorld I am doing a common rail Cummins and zf6 into an excursion. Love all the content man keep it up
That exhaust system came out great. 3 inch exhaust will be fine since the flow is smooth. I’d only go bigger if you were increasing power through modifications. But stock I see no issue. I think a matte gray flatbed would look great on there. Thanks for sharing another great video.
Thanks, Pete! It does have some power mods, so I guess we'll see if it's big enough 😂
When i remove or install exhaust hanger bushings, i spray it with PB blaster. It works really well, without bending anything or damaging the rubber.
I love the sound of a diesel engine. Nice exhaust sound is good sometimes but not on a road trip
For exhaust hangers; panther piss penetrating oil, and exhaust hanger pliers. Worth every penny.
I coincidentally bought the sorta the same exhaust kit off eBay a couple months ago for my gmt gasser. Good job.
I used v bands instead of the flex
Soaking the wrap in water before installing makes it go on easier and leaves it much tighter in the end. 👌
Interesting! The instructions mentioned that soaking in water was optional, but it didn't say why it was a good idea 😂
A medium charcoal grey would look fabulous with the sliver grey of the body. Great job on the exhaust. So glad that your vids are coming on a more regular timeline now
Thank you! Yeah, I'm definitely trying to get videos out more often. You'd be amazed at how long it takes! 😂
You never disappoint, Waldo. Is there anything you can't do? I really enjoy your work!
Thanks, Bill! I like to push myself to try new things and I hope I can inspire others to do the same 👍
The polish stainless tip is a must. Adds 20 hp and 50 lb ft torque
I’ve done many custom exhaust installs from bolt in Borla exhaust to custom made exhausted
The EASIEST ways to get exhaust hangers off is a heat gun, soap and water and brute force.
If they’re old and brittle you can always buy new ones for cheap. Use a heat gun to soften the rubber and then a pry bar to get them off.
If they’re newer and in go shape mix Dawn Dish soap and water in a clean spray bottle and soak the tip of the metal with it and slide the rubber hanger as far back as it will go. Then spray more. Then slide it over the wet soapy part of the metal bracket and use a pry bar to get it over the flanged tip.
It should pop right off!
4 inch exhaust will help with egt's when towing. 5 inch would be ideal if towing at GVWR or beyond. Water/Methonal injection is another way to keep the egt's in check but the larger exhaust will be the best way.
My first stainless was also exhaust! It's a challenge at first but very satisfying in the end. Work of beauty!
Hey Waldo! I built a custom cat back for my Tacoma and when getting the rubber hangers on and off I found (to everybody great surprise) that wd40 on the end of the pin and grabbing the rubber with Chanel locks did the trick very well
Couple of pieces of information for you, if you will use 1/16 welding rod that already has flux on it, it will leach into the inside and protect the inside of that weld. My other observations are that you should be increasing that to a 4-inch system at the earliest point that you can make it 4 in. Engineers also say that the two and a quarter to 2 1/2 inch exhaust works well on automobiles too but they always show much better flow and energy numbers from the engine with a 3-inch system at least on a gas engine and 4 in on a diesel.
The other thing that I would also caution you about is once you've had 304 stainless that has been heat tempered, like the exhaust on that truck, I would be welding it with 309 High sil. With a standard muffler on it, you are going to quiet the truck quite a bit but you are choking that exhaust quite a bit. You should make an expansion chamber and then a muffler and you will probably get it quiet enough to be comfortable with.
your attention do detail is second to none. i can appreciate a quiet exhaust. i prefer to hear the motor over the exhaust. mush easier to know when something isnt "just right". i was surprised you went with 3" all the way. i figured you would use 4" or larger once you got down below the cab floor. the only concern i may about going 3" all the way is if the rpms cause the egts to go higher than you like when towing,
Thanks, JC! I guess if the exhaust ends up being too restrictive, I can always redo it 😂
Pretty remarkable how much you were able to learn and accomplish just from watching TH-cam videos.
It's a great resource!
I agree, you can never have enough angle grinders. I will order one more right now. Good looking end product, good sound. I agree that the the engine and turbo sound must have priority over muffler rumble on a diesel rig. Great video 👍👍👍.
Thank you! As for the angle grinders, it's really nice to have one for each type of attachment so you're not constantly switching wheels. It seriously reduces fabrication time 😂
4 inch would be great with a nice tip on the end of it
I think I have sprayed those exhaust rubbers with Dawn soap. It seems to make removal a bit easier. Great job on the exhaust welding.
For every 90 degree bend , it is equal to 10' of straight pipe so that all increases final back pressure.
As always, GREAT video! Your attention to detail, as well as willingness to dive right in and try new fabrication techniques are awesome! Can’t wait for the next vid!
Thank you very much! 🤠
3" and a muffler does seem a little choked but i think its cool. thats why i like your project, you are doing alot of things different than the herd
Thank you! When it comes to exhaust sizing in particular, I think a lot of people go far larger than is really necessary. For example, a 4" exhaust has 78% more cross-sectional area than a 3" exhaust -- It's hard to imagine needing more flow than that unless you're going for HUGE power numbers. That being said, 3" might be a bit on the small side for this application, but we'll find out!
Adjustable pliers on the rubber exhaust hangers!!! Works like a charm. Other jaw on the rubber and the other on the tip of to iron stick
WD-40 on the isolator makes for ease on and off.
Good idea! WD-40 to make things go, Duck Tape to make things stop 🤠
They also make exhuast hanger pliers tht i love using i do alot of dpf deletes in my area and those pliers saved me so much cussing rofl
FYI, for the tack, you don't need the filler rod, but you probably know that already.
Cool video buddy.
What helps me removing exhaust hangers is spraying dw40 and squeezing metal rod out of the hanger with channel locks, otherwise there's a tool for that, which supposedly works well
3-3.5” exhaust without restrictive bends or addons is pretty much perfect for a near stock 24V. Going bigger means taking a hit to scavenging, and thus hurting your low end torque.
Always run at least a 4" exhaust. I personally run a 5" straight pipe on all my trucks but 4" is just fine as well. 4" just lets the truck breath better and you can still run a muffler or donaldson resonator to quite it down. Keep up the good work, great build series!
Thank you!
Yep 5" all the way i dont care if my stockish 7.3 doesn't make enough power to warrant a 5" it looks so much better and i swear it has a deeper tone
Nice work Waldo!! 👌 I think you made a good choice putting the quiet muffler. I had a '03 Dodge Ram (with the Hemi when they became available in the 1500) with a Gibson aftermarket exhaust, and although I loved the sound, it drove me crazy after a long trip. I definitely won't do that again. Lol
Thank you! Yeah, the drone can definitely get annoying on long trips
Soak the exhaust wrap in water before you wrap it. Once it dries, it will be a nice tight fight around your exhaust. Use a hose clamp to keep the ends from moving
Brake cleaner on the rubber exhaust hangers makes it easier to remove.
Another great film !! I would suggest not to many colours on this either interior or cab colour , or very close , can't wait for the next update Waldo !!
Thanks, Steve! I'm getting a lot of suggestions to match the cab color, so I'm going to have to put some serious thought into that!
Love your videos you got class with fabricator skills keep them coming Waldo 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you so much!
19:28 You can run an 18 wheeler exhaust (look up donaldson) that will make the exhaust quiet. They are around 4ft long so its tricky but you can make it fit. You will need to play with the placement (distance from turbo) to get the right cancellation but mine is very quiet.
@Waldo'sWord you definitely should have gone larger since it's a tow rig... definitely should think about a bluechip vp44 just for reliability... your videos are really giving me the push I needed to start my Cummins swap lol
Glad to be a source of inspiration! 👍
Have to send you a picture of my old 1998 3500hd. Still trying to get it going as well.
Very nice, good luck! 🤠
Great video, Waldo! I like your exhaust. For a stock engine, I’d think the 3” is fine. About the flatdeck, I built one for my truck 23 years ago. I got tired of repainting it every so often, so I had the whole thing hot dipped galvanized. Now, 11 years later, there’s no rust, and no maintenance. 😀
Interesting! I wonder how much it would cost to have it galvanized nowadays? 🤔
@@WaldosWorld I don’t know about today, but at the time, it was only $150. I found a commercial galvanizer, who typically does stuff like lamp posts, for the city (high volume). A few things to consider: you can paint over the galvanizing, if you want to. Thin sheet metal will warp somewhat, due to the heat. 1/8” was fine, but 16 gauge (my side panels) got a bit wavy. Once it’s galvanized, you can’t weld on it anymore, so you have to make sure your tie downs, etc. are what you want, prior to dipping. Not trying to convince you, but just to point out an option you may not have considered.
Stainless of just about every alloy welds like butter when you got your rhythm down. Especially the Austenitics with their higher concentration of nickel versus carbon. That's really all it comes down to. Practice, patience and momentum.
I am also getting excited to see this
4 inch or 5 honestly, diesels don't require a lot of back pressure but love being able to flow lots of exhaust
nothing needs backpressure thats just bullshit they started to justify it so egr and emissions equipment would work
@@nou8257 there's no emissions on that 24v no egr or dpf or def just a cat from factory
@@pnwripping6636 I know that Cummins didn't have emissions till the 6.7 I was talking in general with the back pressure crap on gas or diesel it's a load of b.s to make emissions systems work
@@nou8257 yea that's true, that's why manufacturers didn't want people upgrading exhaust lol
@@pnwripping6636 yep its amazing how much my 7.3 gained in throttle response with the 5" i put on it helped a crap load pulling
Please keep uploading.. I love your content and gonna watch all your videos.
. I need a shirt like that
Thank you!
I believe it's too late, but fabricating a trough in the middle of the bed makes life easier when hooking/unhooking from a trailer. Minus that brother, the truck looks awesome.
For the old exhaust hangers I always push the hangers on as much as I can spray some Kimble Midwest or wd40 on them and they should slide right off with a pry bar
Me personally, with the amount of space you have leave the 3 inch down pipe and 4 inch behind it , no muffler . Not as loud as you would think with windows up . Also better flow and in return faster spool up and mpgs
Hi Waldo. Totally love this series but the backhoe project was/is great too. You are very discerning with your builds and show great attention to detail. Even the way you structure your videos shows YT mastery that is unusual for someone who hasn't done this for years yet. If there is one detail that lets you down continuously, it's your welding skills. Perhaps you'll never be a master welder but there is Lots of room for improvement. Please consider doing a course or sit down for 30mins each day to do practice beads; your projects would definitely benefit from it. Sorry if this it blunt, didn't mean to offend you.
Frank
I'm very pleased to see no man buns in these videos.
If folks could subscribe to you channel more than once…great approach to the issue and execution of the plan!! Well done 👍🏼
Haha that'd be nice! 😎
I would spring load the down pipe to exhaust brake joint. Personal lubricant is by far the best stuff for sliding on and off rubber bushes etc. I’ve just replaced my end links on my vw using this method!
Ah yes, personal lubricant sounds like it would be very effective 😂
Im anxious to get it on the road
Same! I've since driven it a little bit, but I really want to bring it for a longer drive 👌
Excellent video Waldo! Exhaust looks and sound wonderful!
Thank you so much!
Nice job although one thing you could do to make Welding a diesel exhaust easier is to use a map gas torch to cook the oil and moisture off the pipes before you weld them it also is easier to weld when it hot The oil from the diesel fuel goes in the pores of the metal so by warming it with a torch you have less chance of porosity even new pipe is coded with a clearcoat to keep it from rusting /oxidizing before it’s purchased..
Thanks, and good tip! 👍
You could use a black bed liner for the bed. Would look good with dark stained wood decking too If it was black. Was planning on building one myself but steel is too much rn.
Yeah, hopefully steel will come back down soon 😂
The price of wood going up it might be a toss-up L0L
Under load you will want a larger muffler. Larger muffler will help keep your EGT’s down.
Looks great! This is making me want to do an interior re build on my 90 K1500!
3” will probably be fine but 4” is pretty much the defacto upgrade
Stock 24valve doesnt make enough power for that to matter. I had a full 4 inch straight pipe on my tuned Common rail and when I switched to a OEM muffler (which baffles to 3" sadly) I didnt lose any MPG, just alittle bit slower to spool. So much Hype about huge exhausts, kids just wanna justify blowing everyones eardrums out on the sidewalks. The factory intake is about a 1inch wide hole right at the head because of a poor design, so I doubt 3 inches in the back will slow much down. Hes still using a 3inch downpipe so a 4 inch 'catback' system would be no real improvement unless it was a straight pipe.
5" or go home haha
4" straight piped into duals with 6" diameter magnaflow stainless tips on my 91.5 D350
@@1STGeneral how do you stand to drive a straight piped diesel. As soon as you pressed the throttle it would be uncomfortably loud in the cab.
A little squirt of brake cleaner on the exhaust hangers helps
Awesome video as always! I pull have done 4 inch exhaust personally but I can’t see loosing to to much performance out of a 3 inch. Really looking forward to your flatbed build!
Thank you!
I look forward to your videos on this project, got me wanting to do a build myself! Love your work
Thanks, I'm glad to be a source of inspiration!
Cool video! When people refer to stainless being harder to weld they are referring to stick not tig. Tig is like you said pretty much that same as mild steel. Stick welding ss is pretty challenging.
Thank you! I've never tried stick welding stainless...
4" is the move tbh.
Outstanding job, man. Sounds great. Really impressed with the way you routed that.
I'm just catching up on all your videos. This pertains to your older video when installing the drive shaft. I'm going to recommend the Milwaukee 2767 1/2" impact gun. I'm a John Deere mechanic and I've just about retired my air guns.
Keep up the great videos.
Thanks! Yeah, I probably should get a 1/2" electric impact 🤔
A couple companies make pliers specifically for removing the exhaust hangers. Just make sure you get ones that can be easily warrantied. They tend to bend and/ or break a lot.
On my 6.5 turbo diesel the 3" mandrel down pipe to 4" pipe work made a significant difference. However the muffler being added back in made no power difference but better driving quality
Yes it would be small for 5.9l Cummins at least 4"
I put a little wd40 or pbblaster on exhaust hanger brackets when installing. When removing I shove a screwdriver into the joint and spray some lube in there also it makes it easier to get them off. Anything works really.
Like the exhaust build, I think as far as the color of the flat bed goes it would be determined by the color of the cab . Although I'm partial to aluminum , but I live in Texas and in the summer things especially tools exposed can become extremely hot. And not in a good way. lol
I like the carefully planned and executed work you put into this project 👍👊
Paint it to match the truck and you can add paint strip or pin strips or 3M decal etc etc
Yeah, I'm going to have to look into matching the color!
Wd40 on those exhaust hangers before the pry bar. Usually slide right off for me.
Spray the hanger with PB Blaster and it will slide off like hot butter
That factory muffler should give it a nice rumble running down the road. Good video
I see a portaband in your future!
Love the video I would paint the flat bed black or the cab color
Yeah, I'm leaning towards black, but also considering red 🤷♂️
a spray of WD40 (penetrant) directly into the rubber where the hangar is works a treat, they slide right off :)
WD-40 goes along way for exhaust hangers. Sometimes I can push them off with my hands.
Use a different nozzle size!! Atleast a #8 or larger #10 cup size with a screen inside makes welding stainless much much easier in my case. I too was starting with stainless. I bought a starter pack of furick cups. Well worth the $200!!!
Post flow gas is important!!! Treats the weld and prevents cracking. Especially if your not back purging with argon inside the peice of work.
Some masking tape works well to hold parts like that in place. I’ve had good luck with Channel locks to get exhaust hangers off
That's what I used mine also, Stainless steel exhaust
The 3' exhaust should be fine, if you do decide to go larger 4" should be more than plenty. I think the bed would look good the same color as the rest of the truck, maybe matte or semi-gloss for a little contrast. Love the videos, looking forward to the next one.
Thank you so much! 👍
To easily remove rubber exhaust hangers spray the hole in the rubber with a little WD40 works great
Wd-40 works wonders. You can just pull it off by hand
Makes sense! WD-40 makes things go and Duck Tape makes things stop! 👌
I'd rather enjoy that sweet alpine system sound over the exhaust.
Good call with the exhaust. The exhaust kit on my truck is way too loud and I hate it. I had to go with it to remove the DPF system and I've since installed a different muffler and it helped but it's still louder than I would like.....I'm just too cheap to get another one
Waldo,
I just joined your subscription and I love the work you do!!
Waldo please get a grinder wheel protector.
great job building the pipe. sounds awesome but yeah sadly on these old engine it is really hard to calm the noise, so better to do what you can to save your ears
you should paint the flatbed the same color of the body
I like that idea, though the metallic paint is probably hard to match considering I'm planning on using a different, industrial strength, coating for the flatbed
@@WaldosWorld then I got a better idea, you should apply a liner coating (use white or grey), then immediately after the application you can spray the color you want on it, there´s a shop in my city (in Mexico) that does it like this and comes out great
i would do a 4in exhaust with a straight threw muffler. Still will be quiet but will flow way better. And I think the flatbed would look sweet in black.
Just my two cents tho.