Nice!! This is a killer street setup!! Less rotating mass than a 383 and less overall mass than a 426 RB wedge!! I did one of these for a race application with 7.100" (!!) BB Chevy rods and a 499B stroker piston (1.13" CH) and a 3.500" stoke. Only 422" but a super light rotating weight and crazy +2:1 rod ratio!! I am scared of your lobe prelube, I use black moly paste (Isky, Lunati, ARP, etc.) and LOTS of it, fully coating each lobe and also the lifter contact face. Are your lifters used and matched to each lobe? If so, your break in will be more likely to succeed. That camshaft ran well and sounded great in a '71 440 that I freshened and loaned to a friend to run in his '67 Coronet. It peaked around 5600rpm with stock #346 (think #452) heads with new Crane single springs. Your application will certainly like a little more RPM but that cam is still going to limit you to around 6000 peak. VERY streetable and decent vacuum and a crazy midrange pull. I predict less than 400hp unless you have some excellent heads, but a good broad torque curve which is really what you want anyway!! Following and supporting the build!! RB
I'd like to replicate this build, but I like your long rod version. I already have a .035 over 400 block, and just found an early forged 383 crank with a little damage that should get ground out by the time they're done. So I only need rods, pistons and balancing.
Tell me more again on the crank! What did they grind, and pin sizes please! What do they normally cost used of course? Does it have to be a forged crank? Going to look at a 383 crank this weekend. And already have a 'fresh' 400 block. Did you drill open any of the main oil galleys? Thanks
I opened up the oil galleys with a dremel tool before sending it out to the machine shop. The crank was offset ground to 2.2”. This increased the stroke to 3.545. It’s now a 426ci with the .035 overbore. This stroker assembly is about $1,000 cheaper than a 440 source kit. For the same price, I could’ve built a 470ci but, I’m specifically after the oversquare characteristics.
Gap the rings a touch more, turn the headers around, get a blow thru carb and a turbo or two and you'll have no problem touching 8-900 ponies...just a thought give er hell
It appears that my true deck is actually greater than stock. As such, my piston is in the hole more than expected. I’m finishing the long block right now. Hoping to have the video out in the next couple of weeks.
💥👏 Just scored a forged 383 crank for $50 and picked up a bored 400 block that has main studs. Slowly getting parts.. Could you please give us the part numbers and pricing for the rods? Are they an off the shelf big block Chevy length?
We have the piston part numbers from one of the videos, but what is the part number for the 7.00 Scat 2.20 rods w/.990 pins and correct rod journal width?
@sortastockmopars I do too, and the 400 was only a dog, because of that friggin 7:1 , piston waaay down in the hole compression. I have the 230 block too. Built 400s are Wicked .
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Gotta say, work of art sitting there! I'm excited for you to see how this one runs. Should be stout.
Man, I am digging that Gold ! Looks great 👌
Nice!! This is a killer street setup!! Less rotating mass than a 383 and less overall mass than a 426 RB wedge!! I did one of these for a race application with 7.100" (!!) BB Chevy rods and a 499B stroker piston (1.13" CH) and a 3.500" stoke. Only 422" but a super light rotating weight and crazy +2:1 rod ratio!! I am scared of your lobe prelube, I use black moly paste (Isky, Lunati, ARP, etc.) and LOTS of it, fully coating each lobe and also the lifter contact face. Are your lifters used and matched to each lobe? If so, your break in will be more likely to succeed. That camshaft ran well and sounded great in a '71 440 that I freshened and loaned to a friend to run in his '67 Coronet. It peaked around 5600rpm with stock #346 (think #452) heads with new Crane single springs. Your application will certainly like a little more RPM but that cam is still going to limit you to around 6000 peak. VERY streetable and decent vacuum and a crazy midrange pull. I predict less than 400hp unless you have some excellent heads, but a good broad torque curve which is really what you want anyway!! Following and supporting the build!! RB
I'd like to replicate this build, but I like your long rod version.
I already have a .035 over 400 block, and just found an early forged 383 crank with a little damage that should get ground out by the time they're done. So I only need rods, pistons and balancing.
It’s a really neat build, buddy. Thanks for bringing us along👍🏼
Great build. Can't wait till the finish. Considering all you have in it, it is still a great budget.
Still on track to finish the long block around 5k 🤞🏻
Following. I would like to try this build.
Great video! i hate to be the bearer of bad news but you put #1 piston in #2 cylinder.
Yeah, I addressed it in the video. That’s what I get for working on it at 0100 lol.
Tell me more again on the crank! What did they grind, and pin sizes please!
What do they normally cost used of course? Does it have to be a forged crank?
Going to look at a 383 crank this weekend. And already have a 'fresh' 400 block. Did you drill open any of the main oil galleys?
Thanks
I opened up the oil galleys with a dremel tool before sending it out to the machine shop. The crank was offset ground to 2.2”. This increased the stroke to 3.545. It’s now a 426ci with the .035 overbore. This stroker assembly is about $1,000 cheaper than a 440 source kit. For the same price, I could’ve built a 470ci but, I’m specifically after the oversquare characteristics.
nice work
Just joined the channel great content 💪
Thank you! Excited to finish this stroker and see it on the dyno.
What is a billed I can do with a 361
Gap the rings a touch more, turn the headers around, get a blow thru carb and a turbo or two and you'll have no problem touching 8-900 ponies...just a thought give er hell
Sounds like an awesome recipe for a 318 lol
Just watched to the end of the video. How far in the hole are your pistons? You couldn't get to Zero deck? What's your compression going to be?
It appears that my true deck is actually greater than stock. As such, my piston is in the hole more than expected. I’m finishing the long block right now. Hoping to have the video out in the next couple of weeks.
💥👏 Just scored a forged 383 crank for $50 and picked up a bored 400 block that has main studs. Slowly getting parts..
Could you please give us the part numbers and pricing for the rods?
Are they an off the shelf big block Chevy length?
@@blownaway4371 yes, they’re off the shelf. I published a video before the assembly going over all of the parts with P/Ns, prices, and specs 👍🏻
We have the piston part numbers from one of the videos, but what is the part number for the 7.00 Scat 2.20 rods w/.990 pins and correct rod journal width?
SCA-26700716 👍🏻. Rods are actually 6.7”
very low volume friend. Could barely hear.
And what's the flywheel for this setup?
I have a couple A833's(?)
Right now the plan is to use a 727 auto behind it
Going to be an awesome engine, hope you're going to use aluminum heads and intake that'll keep her weight down and her horse power up.
What make and name is that killer Gold ?
It’s actually not even gold. It’s the VHT “Burnt Copper”. I love it though.
@sortastockmopars I do too, and the 400 was only a dog, because of that friggin 7:1 , piston waaay down in the hole compression. I have the 230 block too. Built 400s are Wicked .
my bad error
Degreed the cam on my Purple Shaft 4 to 6 degrees retarded. Cant remember which. Im sure you know it will pull harder at top end. Love your videos.
🫣 wow. 4-6 degrees retarded would be really frustrating. I picked up an adjustable timing set just in case this cam was off