Had to look it up just to be certain, but it’s done the exact same method. I did a lot of measuring and blueprinting to get the spacing right between the bearings and counterweights before I pulled anything apart. The initial alignment for phasing between the 2 cylinders one of the counterweights, the only one is tapered. For me it was 3 tones of force for the 550f I did and 6 tonnes for my 800ho which has almost triple the horsepower. Don’t forget it’s not just a red or blue lock tire on that taper, I believe it’s green offhand. Being an ultralite be mindful of the proper break in method which for a sled is about 200km
Talk about over complicating a simple task , i could have completely rebuilt a tripple in the time it took to watch this video. and you never checked the runout on the very ends,
This is making it as tight of a tolerance as I could if others have the same tools. There is no videos on phase alignment on rebuilding a crank on TH-cam. We’re allowed +/-5 degrees and I’m 0.0433 degrees. Checking runout on the ends exaggerates the runout, and I’m in spec at worst case. In my 2005 manual it didn’t say where to measure the runout, just which section. Obviously you know more then the manufacturer on how to cut corners. Rather then be a Karen and complain please enlighten us on how you could have done it quicker and make a video of your own work, and the jigs you built in your machine shop to get it in tolerance. You don’t have a single video uploaded on TH-cam in 2 years, You could do so much better with your energy then complain about others contributions to the world.
Hi Adam. I live in Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada usually someone who does small engines might be able to do it or give some direction. It has to be measured out before dismantle for everything to line up for bearing placement.
good video, interesting way to align the con rods 180.
Wow nice work! Thanks !
Thank you. Couldn’t find any info on phase aligning and dialing in a crank so I made it if you have questions shoot me a message.
Do you rebuild rotax 503 crankshafts?
Had to look it up just to be certain, but it’s done the exact same method. I did a lot of measuring and blueprinting to get the spacing right between the bearings and counterweights before I pulled anything apart. The initial alignment for phasing between the 2 cylinders one of the counterweights, the only one is tapered. For me it was 3 tones of force for the 550f I did and 6 tonnes for my 800ho which has almost triple the horsepower. Don’t forget it’s not just a red or blue lock tire on that taper, I believe it’s green offhand. Being an ultralite be mindful of the proper break in method which for a sled is about 200km
@@adamf1978a Awesome thank you!
Talk about over complicating a simple task , i could have completely rebuilt a tripple in the time it took to watch this video. and you never checked the runout on the very ends,
This is making it as tight of a tolerance as I could if others have the same tools. There is no videos on phase alignment on rebuilding a crank on TH-cam. We’re allowed +/-5 degrees and I’m 0.0433 degrees. Checking runout on the ends exaggerates the runout, and I’m in spec at worst case. In my 2005 manual it didn’t say where to measure the runout, just which section. Obviously you know more then the manufacturer on how to cut corners. Rather then be a Karen and complain please enlighten us on how you could have done it quicker and make a video of your own work, and the jigs you built in your machine shop to get it in tolerance. You don’t have a single video uploaded on TH-cam in 2 years, You could do so much better with your energy then complain about others contributions to the world.
Would you do a 1982 ski doo blizzard 340 crank?
Hi Adam. I live in Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada usually someone who does small engines might be able to do it or give some direction. It has to be measured out before dismantle for everything to line up for bearing placement.