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There is no part number for the capacitor Vic, local dealership had no idea about this circuit in the harness. It’s a few years now but I remember the voltage was melted off so I experimented with 12v up to 18v at 50uf I believe. 25uf discharges too quick for the circuit to engage reverse. Don’t put anything smaller then 12 v it will fry when you charge it almost instantly hitting the reverse button. I did try a 12v, 14v, 16v and 18v capacitor they all worked but seemed the 14 and 16 worked the best. I think I settled at 14 since running voltage is usually 13.7v. I think it was a blue capacitor different type of isolator between plates, oil vs ceramic. It’s way easier to expose you’ll find it under a lot of tape about 2-4” below the top level to the right of the oil tank. Warm it with a torch and slowly cut it off. It’s a pain cutting it… and also you… when it’s cold. I hope that gives a bit more direction.

i have a thread going on dootalk right now about this.... right now i should have dc volts out of the beige wire at the mpem i have none.. i was wondering if you measured for the dc voltage there and if the bad capaciter could cause a false reading at the mpem and maybe make it drop to zero? (all were back probed and pluged in) @@adamf1978a

This is making it as tight of a tolerance as I could if others have the same tools. There is no videos on phase alignment on rebuilding a crank on TH-cam. We’re allowed +/-5 degrees and I’m 0.0433 degrees. Checking runout on the ends exaggerates the runout, and I’m in spec at worst case. In my 2005 manual it didn’t say where to measure the runout, just which section. Obviously you know more then the manufacturer on how to cut corners. Rather then be a Karen and complain please enlighten us on how you could have done it quicker and make a video of your own work, and the jigs you built in your machine shop to get it in tolerance. You don’t have a single video uploaded on TH-cam in 2 years, You could do so much better with your energy then complain about others contributions to the world.

Wife’s 550 died on the trail last season, it was the CDI with no spark. I thought it might be the stator but I found a video from RM Stator diagnosing everything before you replace the CDI. Both ignition pickups are about 6.7 ohms I forget the stator resistance offhand but I’m guessing it is something beyond the stator which might have been part of the problem. There’s about 5 things to check. Even voltage regulator but you’re not high idle in reverse. You’d see your lights change when giving it throttle if it was bad. Maybe a bit of overfueling at low rpm? Look what color your spark plugs are burning, it sounds rich on idle. There are 3 jets on the carbs, one for idle, one for moderate running and another one that opens up after say 6000 rpm. Maybe a loose plug on the reverse pickup. It’s a 2 wire plug into the CDI blue and white. (The forward plug is 4 wires. Blue, white, brown, brown/black). I googled your problem guy with a 2010 550f had similar issues and finally took it to a dealer who replaced the power pack. Hope that gives you some ideas, let me know if you do figure it out.

Hi Adam. I live in Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada usually someone who does small engines might be able to do it or give some direction. It has to be measured out before dismantle for everything to line up for bearing placement.

Thank you. Couldn’t find any info on phase aligning and dialing in a crank so I made it if you have questions shoot me a message.

Had to look it up just to be certain, but it’s done the exact same method. I did a lot of measuring and blueprinting to get the spacing right between the bearings and counterweights before I pulled anything apart. The initial alignment for phasing between the 2 cylinders one of the counterweights, the only one is tapered. For me it was 3 tones of force for the 550f I did and 6 tonnes for my 800ho which has almost triple the horsepower. Don’t forget it’s not just a red or blue lock tire on that taper, I believe it’s green offhand. Being an ultralite be mindful of the proper break in method which for a sled is about 200km

@@adamf1978a Awesome thank you!